Desmontaje del Mando (controlador) inalámbrico Xbox One 1697

Escrito Por: Bito Zapata
Publicado: 27/08/15
  • Comentarios: 21

Desmontaje del Mando (controlador) inalámbrico Xbox One 1697

Publicado: 27/08/15

Desmontaje

Introducción

Microsoft ha lanzado una nueva versión de su controlador inalámbrico oficial Xbox One. Tiene un conector para auriculares estéreo de 3,5 mm, que permitirá que la mayoría de los auriculares para juegos de terceros se conecten directamente al controlador por primera vez.

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    • Modelo Covert Forces - Aspecto Bowie 'Changes'.

    • Nuevo conector jack de 3,5 mm junto al puerto de expansión.

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    • Retira la tapa de la batería y la batería.

    • Retira los paneles laterales con spudger

    • Expón el tornillo de seguridad T9 debajo de la etiqueta

    • Quita los 5 tornillos de seguridad T9 del chasis

    • Retira las cubiertas superior e inferior

    the screws are T8, not T9

    Dennis Kim -

    T9 worked perfectly for me

    B R -

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    • Pega con cinta adhesiva los motores que retumban para evitar que se caigan.

    do you need to use any special tape or will normal tape work

    liam -

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    • Quita los 2 tornillos de seguridad T6 de la PCB inferior

    • Desoldar el paquete sonoro y el cableado del gatillo

    Are these T6 screws actually security screws? they don't look like it in the picture.

    George -

    I have an xbox one pad open in front of me, definitely security torx.

    Steven Davies -

    The T6 Torx was not security screws for the one I just took apart.

    Ryan -

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    • ¡Que ella sopla! DA7212

    • CÓDEC de Dialog Semiconductor con AMP HP de clase G y controlador de altavoz de clase AB.

    • CODEC se encuentra junto a las almohadillas de contacto para el conector jack de 3,5 mm

Autor

Bito Zapata

Miembro Desde 27/08/15

158 Reputación

15 comentarios

Is it possible to show the other board? Was thinking of doing a scuf-style mod to one of these... Thanks

blazeclarkebcc -

Was asking this because the boards are different to the older controller. I have PCB prints of the old one, but not the new one. Thanks.

blazeclarkebcc -

Can you point me where to get schematics that you have?

Piotr Zieliński -

Anybody know where I can get the new style bumpers for this style of controller? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Rhys Jones -

The guy I buy from on ebay said they would be available at the end of January

themadmaxof07 -

I wonder if using this on-board solution should sound better than the external "puck" adapters.

I've opened the original Xbox Stereo Headset Adapter as well as the Turtle Beach Ear Force which both use a TI AIC3204 http://www.ti.com/product/TLV320AIC3204

I get a lot of noise/hiss when using these on both headsets.

Von Braun -

Is the socket designed to take a standard 3.5mm 3 pole stereo jack? Or does it require a 4 pole jack to function correctly?

Paul Joynson -

It uses the 4 pole jack.

penhai -

Where can I get the top triggers replaced this made this cheap top triggers are made one piece not like the older model so need to know where I can get a replacement my email wolveden71@yahoo.com

michaeldaniel71 -

Where could get a replacement for the 3.5mm jack? Seems the one I have currently is no longer working.

Malc Foy -

The D-Pad on my Master Chief wireless controller (Model 1697) will double actuate the up direction about 60% of up presses. The controller is out of warranty and I don't want to spend another $70 to buy a new one. Does anyone know if replacement bottom PCBs are available?

Paul Sirianni -

How can I desolder the solder on the analog sticks it seems like the new soldering is harder to melt and more in between. Than before

SAM CORTEZ -

Does anyone know which part to replace if the controller is bricked from a firmware update?

Jordan -

Does anyone know which part to replace if the controller is “bricked” from a firmware update?

Jordan -

After re-doing one of my controllers many times over, I took the rumble motors out, and she worked fine.

Then after another tear down..i took a risk and snipped off the remaning wires that lead to the trigger motors to make it easier to work on( before i realized you can just remove them as well)

Now.. i put her back together, and the power button would constantly click on.. i was thinking maybe the wires i cut ( which are now slightly poking out from the triggers were short circuting or touching something.

So i just removed the little motors in the triggers and same outcome….

Seems like the power button just wants to keep turning on and off…

Anyone, any ideas let me know thanks.

its_on_eric -