Desmontaje del controlador Nvidia Shield

Escrito Por: 13314877
Publicado: 25/11/15
  • Comentarios: 19

Desmontaje del controlador Nvidia Shield

Publicado: 25/11/15

Desmontaje

Introducción

  1. 2hJeEjEXmKNSMykM
    2hJeEjEXmKNSMykM
    YZiVOUnHnOWEMOxG

    • Controlador normal Nvidia Shield, sin pantalla, por lo que es solo un controlador si no tienes otro dispositivo de protección

    • Micro-USB 2.0

    • Toma de auriculares estéreo de 3,5 mm

    • Indicador de carga

    • Todavía no sé cómo se conecta este controlador a la PC sin cables, el controlador se puede conectar a un Nvidia Shield a través de WiFi, pero no tengo idea si esto funciona con la PC.

  2. bTeB2HBkmX4tqQah
    bTeB2HBkmX4tqQah
    WmnsJmK3PLsPSFnx
    XENOge4pOjD4c62D

    • Voltear el dispositivo revela 6 tornillos. No hay tornillos ocultos aquí.

    • 6 * tornillos, usa un destornillador T7 para todos los tornillos。

    • Cuidado, necesitarás un poco de fuerza para abrir los clips que sujetan el dispositivo.

    • Una vez que estés dentro del dispositivo, retira los dos cables planos.

    mine was actually a T6 screwdriver required, and to get to the battery you have to remove the motherboard

    bjscott13 -

  3. vfqCtGGnyh3pyDTa
    vfqCtGGnyh3pyDTa
    pFT6omZ1PdPngVM2

    • Retira dos cables para los motores de vibración y un cable para la batería.

    • Hay 2 motores de vibración.

    • Retira los dos tornillos que sujetan la placa lógica al dispositivo.

    • Retira con cuidado la placa lógica.

  5. PCELPt4u6XnYBSkd
    PCELPt4u6XnYBSkd
    IH1ZOKYybEuDiDYX

    • podemos encontrar parte de la batería debajo de la placa base

    • Tornillo * 4

    • Batería de iones de litio LC18650: 3,6 V/2200 mAh/7,92 Wh

  6. ioHxGnLCdHxMEWQo
    ioHxGnLCdHxMEWQo
    Tfrmw26VVMRwvhkv

    • PCB principal - Frontal:

    • TLV320AIC3204 (CÓDEC de audio estéreo de muy baja potencia)

    • Atmel ATXMEGA32A4U-AU (microcontrolador de 8 bits)

    • Potenciómetros

    • PCB principal - Posterior:

    • Microchip SST25WF020A (SPI Flash 2Mbit 1.8V)

    • Ozmo2000 431-B0 (chip integrado WiFi)

    • ADG3 3088CP (Desconocido)

  7. G1Kvki5GOreXOYbm
    G1Kvki5GOreXOYbm
    nZOZZKeWZH1daXqt
    Q1yiP2OTqyAKBQiE

    • Retira 6 * tornillo

    • cuidado, no rompas el potenciómetro

  8. aR2ex3jBftnoBuY5
    aR2ex3jBftnoBuY5
    ibKDRssv45oqoQZP
    6xw1Hbe41NZeBbIo

    • parte de la cubierta

    • 4 * tornillo

    • PIC32MX120F032D-I/PT (microcontrolador de 32 bits)

    • PIC18F26K22-I/ML (microcontrolador de 8 bits)

Autor

13314877

Miembro Desde 25/11/15

85 Reputación

18 comentarios

Where is the Shield console teardown?

Steve Hanson -

I brought the controller to the hardware store and found that a T6 fit perfect. I bought it and used it, worked fine. I know the description says T7. May be a mistake

Farrid Mailloux -

Farrid is Correct I have both a T7 and T6 Screwdriver and the T7 IS TOO BIG!, T6 fits perfectly. Just a heads up to anyone who needs to go out and but a Single screwdriver.

drestine -

You are right. It’s T6, not T7.

nguyen bui thanh -

Looking to replace ribbon cables. Anyone know where i can buy them?

Dave Miller -

how do you reinsert the ribbon cables?

matthill11 -

The ribbon cables in the photos look like they plug into ZIF sockets. You probably need to flip up the black tab on the connector before removing or inserting the cables.

Jeff Suovanen -

Im looking for replacement piece in step 8, third photo.

Anyone know if can i buy this part separately? like a screen of a cell phone in aliexpress

Cristian Abalos -

Instead of flip up black tab on ZIF connector I tried white and destroyed it. Anyone knows where to buy this 12 pin ZIF connector, on ribbon is mark HF E248682 AWM 20941 105C 90V VW-1 if this helps...)?

PrleTihi -

Hey man! I do not have the answer, but the problem with my controller seems to be a broken ribbon cable. Have you found out where to get new ones?

heltenraymond -

My controller's direction pad (one on the left side) is broke from inside, I found out when I opened it from the steps given in this thread (thanks! it's very helpful). May be it broke due to excessive pressure, but anyone knows where can I buy one? Its the Top right corner part in the the first picture of 8th step. So now I can't press "LEFT" direction key since the bottom of this key is broke from inside, but top, right and down key is working...

Chirag Khatri -

I have the same issue except the top of the D pad is broken. Did you find a replacement part?

Jason Power -

Anyone successfully replaced the headphone connector??

Ian D. Mah -

What 3d rockers(3d stick)are on the motherboard and where to get a replacement for them?They differ from those used in controllers from sony and xbox....

Роман Фабрициев -

Anyone have a fix for the volume adjuster bar on this controller not working at all anymore?

Paul Murphy -

Anyone found a supplier for replacement screws?

Ian D. Mah -

Where I can get those parts, my controller have water damage, I will like to know from where I can buy those parts

Brayan Cordon -

We are screwed. I carefully disassembled and then assembled the controller, and now my touch buttons no longer work, i tried different ribbon cables ( I have a broken controller that i source parts from..) and still nothing. Now one of the screws wore off and I can’t even open again.

I'm giving up on this controller, so my question is if another controller can work with the Shield TV? Looking for anything… either one that connects directly to it or one with a dongle that goes in to the USB… however needs to be wireless… to be honest i’m tired of using my phone as a remote…. and the Shield Remote app by NVIDIA is not the best either

Radoslav Trahanov -