Desmontaje del teclado Apple A1243

Escrito Por: Roman Seibel
Publicado: 19/10/17
  • Comentarios: 19

Desmontaje del teclado Apple A1243

Publicado: 19/10/17

Desmontaje

Introducción

En esta guía mostramos los pasos a seguir para proceder a desmontar el teclado de Apple A1243. Siga estos pasos bajo su responsabilidad y con cautela ya que éste puede llegar a quedar inutilizado

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    • La parte inferior del teclado está fijada por una capa de adhesivo que cubre toda la superficie. No hay tornillos que sujeten la cubierta trasera en su lugar.

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    • Se puede usar un desmontador, preferiblemente de plástico, para levantar la cubierta trasera del teclado.

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    • Solo haga palanca en el extremo frontal del teclado, ya que hay cables de cinta fácilmente dañados en la parte posterior del teclado.

    • El uso de una pistola de calor en posición baja se puede usar con cuidado para calentar la cubierta posterior y suavizar el adhesivo. Trabaje en secciones calentando y luego separando gradualmente las secciones.

    • Evite usar demasiado calor, de lo contrario deformará o derretirá la cubierta u otras piezas de plástico. No use fuerza excesiva para quitar la cubierta ya que la aleación es delgada y se dobla fácilmente. El teclado quedaría permanentemente deformado.

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    • La placa posterior del teclado principal está sujeta por docenas de puntos de soldadura, ¡la única forma de desmontarlos aún más es quitarlos con un taladro!

    • La placa lógica está asegurada con tornillos de cabeza Philips. Dos cables planos conectan el teclado a la placa lógica. El daño de un cable provocará que secciones enteras del teclado no funcionen.

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    • Prácticamente no hay piezas reparables dentro del teclado que no sean la placa lógica, pero aún así, debido a la contrucción del teclado, no hay piezas de repuesto disponibles para comprar, aunque si se pudiera. Hay pocas razones para desmontar el teclado.

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    • Cypress CY7C63923 (Controlador del periférico USB de baja velocidad).

    • ST 95040W (4kbit EEPROM)

    • Cypress CY7C65630-56L (Hub de Baja potencia USB 2.0).

    • Microchip 2026-1YM (Switch de alimentación de distribución Doble Canal )

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    • El elemento del círculo amarillo es un Cypress CY7C63923-PVXC, a "Controlador del periférico de USB de baja velocidad " .

    • El círculo azul es un Cypress CYC65630, "Controlador del Hub USB 2.0 de baja potencia".

    Hello folks,

    Writing just after I “opened” keyboard. DO NOT follow any recommendations. There is no way to receive your keyboard back. Nothing work. I spent 20 min to do even gentle work and got trash of parts. Yes, it is look like electronic parts were broken and all the rest peaces you need to throughout to garbage. Easy way to disassemble, no way back. Simply get new one.

    pusatyuk -

Autor

Roman Seibel

Miembro Desde 13/08/12

174 Reputación

18 comentarios

Any hope of replacement of a defective key switch?

Eddie Sutton -

I think I will need to open mine to replace the USB wire.

Marek Novak -

I fried one of the usb port with coil back current, the other port runs well so does the keyboard.

How do I fix that? Is there a fuse to replace?

daslolo -

One day, my keyboard stopped working, keys affected are 5tgb and 6yhn. It guess they are joined inside. No reason at all. No spill. My keyboard is hooked to an unpowered USB hub, which is hooked to my MacbookPro. I use also a logitech wired mouse attached to the USB port. When I arrived last Monday morning to my office with the mac, I plugged everything as described and the problem appeared. Now I don't know that to do to fix it. Some guys recommend springing water on it but it seems some kind of joke. I can't believe I spend so much money in this keyboard and now it doesn't work. A couple of months ago, I realised that the Magic Mouse 2 was another bummer because of it problem tracking the hand movements. I started to doubt about Apple hardware, except for the Macbook Pro, which has 5 years of intense use and never had a problem at all.

Mariano Belgrano -

Yes, washing these types of aluminum apple keyboards with water will usually resolve the problem, just pure water, and a few days of drying… it doesn’t make sense, but I have fixed a dozen of these that way before! It’s no guarantee, but it could resolve it. The reason the keys went out together is that the buttons’ are organized into columns and rows electronically. When the circuit is connected on the sixth column and the second row, that equals a 5 key. Sixth column third row would be the T key, etc. So your problem is not at the keys, but with the column contacts for those two columns. Whether cleaning them will help is anyones guess. Somehow, you have a break in the circuit for those two columns of the keyboard. It sounds like the problem will be on the logic board of the keyboard. Check for hairs or something shorting out any chips, etc.

Albert Min -

My period (full stop) key has just stoped working out of nowhere. It’s like the most important key I use as I’m constantly typing emails and URL’s. Thankfully I pulled out a brand new wireless apple keyboard that came with my iMac at time of purchase, but now I’ll either need a replacement or a fix. If I dismantle this board and get it working ill most definitely post a guide.

Joe -

i washed the keyboard and now i see it doesn't work at all

It dried on the radiator for 2 days

Károly Bakonyi -

@ Albert Min https://www.ifixit.com/User/3139679/Albe...

do you have a matrix showing the interconnections , my keyboard duplicates some keys f.i q & p both result in qp with 1 press as welle as some others . I just opened mine and set it to soak in a light detergent , will rinse tomorrow and then wait for drying to test .

bart

solos -

I am trying to replace just the silicone cup/spring of a key. I managed to remove the key cap and scissor mechanism but the cup is trapped beneath an unremovable plastic membrane. I could probably cut the membrane at the top leg or two bottom legs, leaving top or bottom attached. Has anyone successfully done this? Here’s what it looks like with tweezers inserted under the membrane:

https://i.postimg.cc/SNVwtHCd/IMG-1506-C...

Jose Sopato -

BTW I learned how to remove the parts from this video by an intrepid person who did his own tear-down:

Trying to FIX : Faulty Apple Keyboard Model A1243 purchased on eBay

https://youtu.be/zxiPxyLF8p4?t=2408

Jose Sopato -

This week, I’ve received a discarded and totally unfunctional A 1243 Apple USB keyboard.

Very sparse to no response shown in “Keyboard Viewer”.

I know these keyboards are virtually unserviceable, because completely glued together.

If, after a liquid spill e.g. some keys are unresponsive, they are toast.

Meaning: some matrix lines are cut, resulting in a quadriplegic KYBD, even if the main board is still OK.

However, my KYBD does show full functionality of its built-in USB hub ( with another USB KYBD or mouse connected to the hub).

So, the USB controller on its main board is fully functional. As is its USB cable.

Probably the Cypress CY7C63923-PVXC USB peripheral controller on the the tiny main board is shot…

Or, there is oxide on the main ribbon link between KYBD and logic board.

Just for the heck of it I will attempt to switch both main boards.

Will keep you posted as to the results.

I wonder if I will be able to effectively glue the bottom plate on again.

Bart Van Dessel -

I have a totally unfunctional A 1243 Apple USB keyboard.

These keyboards are unserviceable, because completely glued together.

If, after a liquid spill e.g. some keys are unresponsive, they are toast.

Meaning: some matrix lines are cut, resulting in a quadriplegic KYBD, even if the main board is still OK.

However, my KYBD does show full functionality of its built-in USB hub ( with another USB KYBD or mouse connected to the hub).

So, the USB controller on its main board is fully functional. As is its USB cable. The Cypress CY7C63923-PVXC USB peripheral controller on the the tiny main board is shot…

Or, there is oxide on the main ribbon link between KYBD and logic board.

I do have the same KYBD whith damaged keys/ matrix lines.

Its main board still OK, though.

Just for the heck of it I will attempt to switch both main boards.

Will keep you posted as to the results.

Whether or not this will give my KYBD full functionality remains to be seen. And if so, I wonder if I will be able to effectively glue the

it together again

Bart Van Dessel -

Sorry for a double post, I got a “ too many character notification..

Bart Van Dessel -

If you just have sticky keys because of a liquid accident, instead of trying to open it and possibly ruin it in the process, you could also try to flush it with IPA (Isopropylalcohol). You could construct a basin with alu foil if you do not have anything that fits the keyboard. Put the keys upside down and flush it a few minutes 2-3 times with 1/4 litres of IPA and help to get the liquid in and out by moving and pressing the keys..

Do not worry, the liquid will completely vaporise in 10 minuten max. DO worry about your health and only do this in a very well ventilated place without ANY possible risk of fire! NO SMOKING OR SPARKS! If available, wear rubber gloves, although temporary exposure cannot cause big harm but some people are sensitive so be aware of this.

After the flush, help to get the liquid out by swinging it out in a place where the bits of IPA that come out cannot cause any stains. Evaporation goes very quickly anyway. Best of luck and a very good chance you will repair your keyboard this way.

Bas Meijer -

I am getting no response from my keyboard whatsoever, and figured it might be the cable. Is it possible to replace the USB wire? I’ve love to know what’s likely, through with no response, there’s no telling I suppose. It has worked well for a few years, including yesterday morning. I paused in working for an hour or so, then returned, and got nothing from it. Any suggestions?

Ruth Pershing -

Do you have the pin out for the keyboard ribbon connectors?

LadmanMp4 -

My experience : I have just dismantled one … and I partialy cuted keyboard ribbons.

I used a heat gun and its gave me a little help but not enough. Glue are very very strong.

My advice : AS POSSIBLE, DON’T TRY TO OPEN IT BY THE TOP.

Suggestion : maybe a spray to disolve glue could be usefull too.

freed -

Unless damage is from a drop, pulled wire inside connector cable or other damage from severe action - most likely some goober, liquid or scratchy things went down the key sides. Here's the case with one still in damage mode and just undergoing operation.

Damage is asdfghj which seems interesting. Non working. The action taken is a hot bath jet spray down of the entire keyboard, usb ports and plug. Next, is a spray saturation of "contact" and electrical board cleaner across the sides of the damaged keys. A brisk shake out upside down, taps on the backside - all clears out most liquid. Now it is sitting in the sink with the corner in the drain hole.

If it works repairing the keys we're onto something. The topwater is fine if a contact spray gets used cause all the topwater will be spread out.

Jenny -