Instalación de la unidad de disco duro dual Unibody Mid 2009 de MacBook Pro 13 "

Paso 1

Retira los siguientes 10 tornillos que sujetan la tapa inferior del MacBook Pro 13 "Unibody:
Siete tornillos Phillips de 3 mm.
Tres tornillos Phillips de 13,5 mm.

Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

mastover -

I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

adlerpe -

That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

joyitsjennie - 12/08/15

Great idea and one I use often

Thomas Overstreet - 30/08/15

Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

Laura Sharkey - 14/08/16

I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

valentinedhdh - 07/04/15

I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)

Cary B - 09/07/22

Paso 2

Levanta ligeramente la tapa inferior y empuja hacia la parte posterior para liberarlo de las pestañas que lo sujetan

In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

Mike - 12/09/17

Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.

Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!

Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.

Am I allowed to cry?

Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.

IFIXIT - IDIGIT!

kath myers - 26/02/22

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

That was a brilliant read.

Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.

Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.

:)

Cary B -

Paso 3

Por razones de precaución, le recomendamos que desconecte el conector de la batería de la placa lógica para evitar cualquier descarga eléctrica.
Utilice el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería hacia arriba fuera de su toma en la placa lógica.

Cita de gansodesoya:

why is step 3 necessary?

Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

MrKane -

How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

Horace Chung -

yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

maccentric -

This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

Jeff Diamond - 16/04/17

Paso 4

Usando el extremo plano de un spudger, levanta suavemente el conector del cable del altavoz/subwoofer derecho hacia arriba de la placa lógica. Ten cuidado de no levantar el zócalo. Tira del conector hacia la unidad óptica.
Haz palanca desde debajo de los cables.

Step 4 is correct as stated (pull up, not slide out). You'll definitely see this when you put it back in place, pushing down in socket not sliding in. Just be careful and use spudger (gently!) underneath wires as shown.

jgcolt -

What is the best way to solder this back onto the board? I did it once 5 years ago, but that was my first and only time soldering. I know there is a soldering guide, and I have read it. Could someone tell me please the best way to reconnect the right speaker/subwoofer cable to the board, referencing the soldering guide?

Leslie L. Gordon -

Paso 5

Será necesario deslizar el pequeño retenedor de cable de plástico transparente (recuadro en rojo) pegado a la placa lógica antes de desconectar el cable de la cámara. Ten cuidado de no romper ningún componente de la placa al deslizarla para separarla del conector del cable de la cámara.
Tira del conector del cable de la cámara hacia la unidad óptica para desconectarlo de la placa lógica.
Este enchufe es de metal y se dobla fácilmente. Asegúrate de alinear el conector con su zócalo en la placa lógica antes de acoplar las dos piezas.

When you put the Mac back together after this entire procedure, it's virtually impossible to get the camera cable reconnected because there is a small piece of plastic glued to the board to keep it from coming unplugged. An Apple store tech explained the piece of plastic and said it won't break anything if I pry it off the board. I did and then the cable connected easily.

karenz -

The retainer for the camera cable may be black as well as clear. It is much easier to remove and reinstall the retainer if the DVD drive cable is removed first.

MikeG -

Paso 6

Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para sacar el conector de la unidad óptica de la placa lógica.

Paso 7

Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para sacar el conector del disco duro de la placa lógica.

Paso 8

Retira los dos tornillos Phillips que sujetan el subwoofer a la carcasa superior. El derecho es de 5 mm y el izquierdo de 3,9 mm.
El más largo de los dos tornillos está a la derecha.

For step 8, I found I had to use a Phillips #0 screwdriver to remove the two screws. I'm not sure if mine were just over-tightened, but I couldn't get the two screws off with a cheapo Radioshack #00 screwdriver or a nice Wiha one for the life of me without coming close to stripping them. Tried the #0 and they popped right out. Hope this helps.

Aaron B -

Paso 9

El subwoofer todavía está conectado al altavoz derecho, así que no lo quites por completo todavía.
Levanta el subwoofer de la unidad óptica y colócalo sobre la computadora.

Paso 10

Retira los dos tornillos Phillips de 8,4 mm que sujetan el soporte del cable de la cámara a la carcasa superior.
El tornillo derecho puede permanecer cautivo en el cable de la cámara.
Levanta el soporte del cable de la cámara para sacarlo de la carcasa superior.

There's another type of bridge, black, with an extra piece of metal to hold the cable. You don't have to remove this bridge to unmount the optical drive.

Martin -

Paso 11

Retira los tres tornillos Phillips de 2,5 mm que sujetan la unidad óptica a la carcasa superior.
Levanta la unidad óptica desde su borde derecho y extraela de la computadora.

Paso 12

Retira el cable de la unidad óptica tirando de él hacia afuera de la unidad óptica.
Este conector es particularmente profundo, así que asegúrate de alejarte de la unidad en el centro del conector.
Si tienes un CD o cualquier otro objeto atascado en tu unidad óptica, tenemos una guía de reparación de unidades ópticas.

Paso 13

Retira los dos tornillos negros Phillips #0 que sujetan el soporte de montaje de metal pequeño. Transfiere este soporte a su nueva unidad óptica o caja de disco duro.

Paso 14

Retira el separador de plástico de la bahía del disco óptico presionando los cierres a cada lado, levántalo y sácalo de la bahía.

is it 9,5mm or 12,7mm for the caddy? My stuff macbook pro mid 2010, need advice what size is compatible. Thank you

Adi Purba - 13/04/21

All Macbooks use 9.5mm Optical Drive Caddy, also, If you’re wondering as well, the Optical Drive runs at SATA II speeds just like with the main hard drive area, so if you’re using a SSD, then it’s going to run at a slightly slower speed.

- PS5iscool - - 22/05/21

Paso 15

Asegúrate de que los conectores del disco duro miran hacia abajo antes de colocarlo en el hueco de la bahía.
Coloca con cuidado el disco duro en el hueco insertándolo en la ranura.
Mientras sujetas la bahía con una mano, presiona el disco duro con la otra mano para insertarlo en los conectores.

Okay it seems like some models of MacBook Pro have issues with a fast (6Gbit/s) SSD in the optical bay. Even though my Mac says it offers 6Gbit on both bays it simply didn't work in the optical bay. So I switched places between the two drives and everything seems to work. My Mac booted from the old HDD in optical bay automatically and then I cloned it afterwards and changed the startup disk to the new one. As said before, don't put a fast SSD in the optical bay!

Carl -

This is an extremely late response to an old comment, but… whatev’s. My 2011 MacBook Pro had that issue: the main (HDD bay) SATA operated at 6Gbit, and while the optical bay said it was 6Gbit, the “Negotiated Link Speed” was like 1.5Gbits regardless of what you put in it (I can understand 1.5Gbits for an optical drive, but not for an SSD). Some of the early 2012 models did the same thing, from what I understand, but that was corrected pretty early on; both my 13” and 15” 2012’s run at 6Gb/s on both SATA busses.

AJH -

It’s not wise to swop the optidrive for an HD as there is no physical protection. The caddy is only intended for an SSD.

Ben Ormerod - 28/08/20

Paso 16

Una vez has ajustado el disco duro en su sitio, reinserta hasta el fondo el espaciador de plástico en el hueco.

Normally with the HD enclosure there come a set of screws. use these to screw down the HD in the enclosure since you need to flip it up side down to reinstall it into the MBP

Bart -

Paso 17

Atornilla dos tornillos Phillips #1 para fijar el disco duro a su bahía.

Where are these screws coming from? Were they part of the original optical drive?

Bradley DeHerrera - 23/09/20

The new enclosure should include these two Phillips screws.

Sam Omiotek - 11/01/21

Can someone show the step of removal process of hdd/SSD placed in the caddy? I am unable to revert this process. Do we have to apply back greater force to remove back the hard drive/SSD from the caddy?

Tarun Kumar Verma -

Gads, I wish they made a caddy where the optical drive was removable without having to remove the entire caddy. That is a major peeve of mine. Like… just mount it the other way! I don’t want to have to go through this entire process every time I upgrade the secondary drive.

AJH -

These screws seems to be located in different places on different enclosures. I had serious trouble getting the SSD that the previous owner of this MacBook installed out of the enclosure until I realized the screws holding the SSD in place were on the side and not on the bottom. In case anyone else has the same issue!

nessie1001 -

Paso 18

Fija el soporte del disco duro a la nueva bahía con dos tornillos Phillips #0.
Reconecta todos los cables que hayas desconectado del lector de discos ópticos original a la nueva bahía.

Replaced the optical with hdd, as well as replaced the hard drive with an ssd. Now I get the circle with a line through it. But, when I hold the option key down, it gives me both hard drives, PLUS, the thumb drive I have in the USB port with a Mountain Lion installer. It even shows the recovery disks, but gives me the circle with the line when I choose one. Any help is appreciated.

claude -

Mate,

My mbp shipped with OS 10.8, and I had upgraded twice to 10.10

I've a 10.7 USB which upgraded my old MBP.

My plan today was to boot with my new ssd, my time machine back up and the Lion usb plugged in.

I would then click on the Lion usb, and tell it to put the OS and time machine back up on the ssd.

So I help down ALT and when it started it gave me the options of the usual Mac internal or the Lion USB.

I clicked Lion, but instead of taking me to the install options (Disk utility, restore from time machine etc etc) it gave me that grey circle with a diagonal line through it. The no entry sign - grey on grey - that I think you have.

Some googling said that it is because I was trying to usb a 10.7 install on a MBP that shipped 10.8

You can't go back, apparently.

So if any of the OSs are older than the mac you got, you will get this error. The grey in grey no entry.

I just cloned my HDD to my ssd (Carbon copy cloner free 30 day trial) using an external stat-usb3 wire and all is good.

Rory - 02/11/14

I have a 17" Macbook Pro6,1 unibody with an Intel Core i5, 2.53GHz. I was successful installing a 250GB SSD in the DVD bay, and I'm able to boot from it. I did this by first installing OS X 10.9.4 on the SSD mounted into an external HD case, testing the system to see if it would boot up into the SSD, then installing the SSD and carrier in the DVD drive bay. The system now boots up from the SSD with no problems. If you are having installation problems, I recommend trying this method.

roger hall - 26/07/14

I just have finished installing second SSD to my MBP (unibody 15` 2010).

First one was changed like one year ago. Samsung 500GB SSD. It is in my HDD bay and I'm running system from it.

Today I put a new Samsung 1TB 850 Evo 1 SSD in to my optic bay.

I encounter problem with SSD not recognized by Finder.

But It was recognized by Disk Utility.

What I did was I erase new SSD by Disk Utility. Then the new partition was created and now It has been seen by Finder.

So If you see it in Disk Utility just erased it.

Some extra info in under this link--> https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-4...

Wish you all luck :)

rybafly - 13/06/15

My installation went great thanks to the guide. I did notice a small thing that might make a good tip, and that is to inspect all the visible screws. I saw one that was slightly raised, and when I poked around with the spudger, I found 2 more that had worked themselves out a bit. Its probably something super rare but at the age of these things, it wouldn't hurt to check.

Tineyi Chapisa -

Paso 19

¡No tires el lector! Puedes usarlo de manera externa con nuestro cable SATA USB lector óptico.
Alinea el conector SATA del cable con el puerto del lector y conéctalo cuidadosamente.
Conecta el conector USB a tu portátil. Tu lector óptico está listo.

There is a small metal button in the front of the drive and you can use that to eject the drive if you were wondering.

Joseph Landry - 13/02/17

Maybe that explain the eject button mechanism maybe….