Instalación de un Disco Doble en el iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389

Escrito Por: Brittany McCrigler
  • Comentarios: 105
Instalación de un Disco Doble en el iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389

Dificultad

Moderado

Pasos

20

Tiempo Requerido

1 - 2 horas

Introducción

Hay muchos beneficios al agregar una segunda unidad a tu iMac, como velocidades mejoradas, mayor espacio de almacenamiento y menos dolores de cabeza al instalar un nuevo software. Usa esta guía para instalar uno usando nuestro cajetín de unidad de bahía óptica.

  1. S6gQ2HIHlQuHu5Sy
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    • Antes de empezar, desconecte su iMac y recuestela sobre una superficie suave.

    • Adhiera una ventosa en los 2 angulos superiores del panel de vidrio.

    • Para pegar las ventosas primero posicione sus manijas paralelas al borde del panel de vidrio. Presione suavemente las ventosas contra el vidrio y gire las manijas de vacio hacia el panel de vidrio.

    • Si sus ventosas no se pegan, limpie la superficie del vidrio y la goma de sus ventosas con un solvente liviano.

    • Insertar traducción aquí

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    Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.

    kctipton -

    Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.

    MaximBorzov -

    You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.

    Deepsurvival -

    That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.

    Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.

    max damage -

    No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.

    Nikolas Lintulaakso -

    Nails worked for me too

    Rob Dale -

    Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.

    Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.

    osienna -

    I use Garmin GPS suction cup. Work very well

    jc3Dcx -

    I’ve just successfully installed a 1TB SSD in place of my optical drive thanks to the information here- thank you to everyone who has contributed!

    3 comments- the procedure described here seems to vary between HD replacement and dual HD/optical drive replacement. This can be confusing at times.

    Expect there to be minor differences between the layout described and what you find when you open up your iMac. There are also, surprisingly, differences between the HD enclosure description, and the article provided by ifixit.

    I was able to replace the DVD/HD enclosure single-handedly without fully removing the LCD, or deconnecting any of the cables (steps 5-11). It’s a bit cramped, and fiddly, but I was not happy removing any of the cables despite watching videos, etc., since they all seemed to involve applying more force than I was comfortable with. A more detailed description of how to release them might have helped, but even here, there may be minor variations even within the 2389 model.

    Good luck!

    ivan birks -

    I did it several times with one suction cup at the end of a kitchen brush. Once with the blade of a swiss army knive, also ok. And i’m pretty sure it works with fingernails too

    Tai -

    Fingernails are all you need to free the glass from its magnetic hold. If you don’t have them, slip something thin and plastic, like a spudger, at a top corner.

    Max Powers -

    Minha dúvida é a seguinte: após o técnico trocar o HD do meu iMac de 21,5 polegadas, a câmera parou de funcionar. Seria por causa da troca do HD? Tem solução?

    Claudio -

    Creio que o cabo da camera não foi plugado ou deu mau contato… ou até danificado.

    glecyo@gmail.com

    glecyo medeiros -

    I can’t get my glass to budge. I’m replacing a cracked one and now it’s about to shatter.

    jamboxmitchell -

    I know that I'm replying really late but I advise to use clear tape over any cracks so the cracks don't get bigger

    Jace Holmes -

    Check for chips in the glass BEFORE you do this step. If there is a chip when you pull up with the suction cups you will wind up with a jagged mess. If you do have a chip I would advise covering the screen near the chip with clear tape of some kind before lifting out. Mine shattered right at the chip and the resulting glass dust cloud got all over. My solution was buying a new glass screen.

    BCam -

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    • Tire despacio el panel de vidrio perpendicular a la cara del LCD con cuidado ya que hay pestañas de metal en la parte inferior del panel de vidrio.

    • Remueva el panel de vidrio hacia arriba sacando cuidadosamente las pestañas de acero y coloque sobre una superficie limpia.

    • Durante la reinstalación, asegurese que la cara interior del panel de vidrio esta perfectamente limpia y que no haya quedado suciedad ni impresiones de dedos sobre el LCD ya que seria visibles al encender el iMac.

    What's the best product to clean the face of the LCD?

    Steve Speirs -

    Microfiber Cloth

    Leonardo Fournier -

    Try your best not touch it in the first place

    Brian -

    Wearing Nitrile or regular surgical gloves helps prevent finger prints if you accidentally touch the glass.

    amiller770 -

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    • Remueva los ocho tornillos de 8 mm T10 Torx que aseguran el display a la carcasa exterior.

    • Las últimas dos fotos son imágenes detalladas de cada lado de la pantalla.

    Replacing the screws , especially the two uppermost ones , is awkward due to the magnets attracting the screws off the Torx driver

    Anoop Sahal -

    I’ve done an HDD replacement on an A1174 (and I’m about to do this model), which is nightmarish, but by far the best solution I found was to use a bit of Blu Tack or the equivalent on the driver.

    Boris -

    I’ve just replaced the screws by making a little tube from paper and wrapping it round each screw to keep it contained. A cut-down straw would be perfect for job.

    Guy Whittaker -

    I second this but use a tube of cardboard instead, then its quite easy.

    jeank75 -

  4. JJrCWMp1gZN1UT4k

    • De manera cuidadosa levanta el borde superior de la pantalla fuera de la carcasa exterior.

    • No levantes mucho. Hay varios cables unidos de la pantalla a la tarjeta lógica.

    After sliding the display slightly towards the top edge, enough for the bottom edge to clear the retainers, an alternative is to raise the bottom edge out. Then unplug the LED backlight power cable (this step + 2), unplug the LCD thermal sensor cable (this step + 4), unplug the display data cable (this step + 3), and the display may be rotated over the top edge while leaving the vertical sync cable attached (this step + 1).

    Jerry -

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    • Saca el conector del cable de sincronización vertical de su enchufe en la placa de controladores LED, cerca de la esquina superior izquierda del iMac.

    Do not try to pull the plug off the circuit board as it's soldered. Pull the cable sideways out of the socket.

    Alex Campbell -

    Skipped step 5-10. I used two 5-6" chopsticks to prop up the display, this gave me more than enough room to complete the rest of the steps. I only had to disconnect the 3 cables are directly connected to the hard drive. Replacing the Seagate hard drive with another Seagate hard drive eliminated any cable issues. Now I have 2TB SSDH

    jaime martinez -

    I was also able to skip steps 5 thru 10, which meant no messing with any cables except for the two for the HD (steps 13+14). Used a credit card to start the removal of glass panel (step 2) - much easier than I imagined. After removing display screws (step 3) I simply had a friend hold up the display's bottom edge as far as the cables would allow (careful not to stress at connection to logic board) and this provided enough room to remove the HD bracket screws (step 11), detach the HD cables, and remove the HD. Was replacing a failed 1TB Seagate with a 3TB Seagate so no problems with compatibility when reattaching the HD cables and everything worked fine when I restored the OS and data to the new HD. No fan issues. I did take great care to not get fingerprints on the inside of the glass panel and to blow off any dust specks before reinstalling it. It was a bit tricky to get the new HD back in without letting the magnets get a hold of it, so thanks for the warning posted here about that!

    Chuckles McBunny -

    On my mid 2010 Imac I found it was not necessary to disconnect any cables (except of course those attached to the drive). Simply angle the monitor away from the case to a safe distance without stressing any cables and secure with tape. With a stubby screw driver it was easy to access and remove the drive.

    Michael Husselbee -

    Skipped steps 6-10; did step 5 so could lift top of display higher, then propped up. A photo of whole interior here would help (hard disk is top center). Used pliers holding T10 bit at right angle to unscrew hard disk holder. SSD installed loose (macOS and fan control app already loaded).

    David Menges -

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    • Gira la pantalla fuera de la carcasa exterior lo suficiente para desconectar el cable de alimentación de la retroiluminación LED de la placa del controlador LED.

    • Desconecta el cable de alimentación de la retroiluminación LED presionando el mecanismo de bloqueo mientras tiras del conector para sacarlo de su zócalo (hacia el borde inferior del iMac).

    This is real tricky it is fragile and you have to pull it along the logic board.

    John -

    First push down on the edge of the connector closest to bottom edge of the iMac. This unlatches the locking mechanism at the top edge of the connector. Then gently wiggle the connector away from its socket.

    Oshoma Momoh -

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    • El enchufe del cable de datos de la pantalla tiene un bloqueo de alambre. Desengancha el bloqueo del enchufe girando la lengüeta de plástico para que apunte hacia arriba. (No es una lengüeta de extracción).

    • Saca el cable de datos de la pantalla de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • No levantes el cable de datos de la pantalla, ya que su enchufe es muy frágil. Tira del cable paralelo a la cara de la placa lógica.

    This cable is very short, I would remove it before any of the others. First time I did this, I didn't realize this and this cable just popped out of it's socket. Luckily, the board wasn't damaged.

    maccentric -

    i damaged my (step7) cable, and my iMac screen won't work, how to fix this?

    Ersan Rasubala -

    I did the same thing. The pins are VERY easy to bend. I replaced it with a new cable from this company.

    http://www.macpalace.com/922-9497-cable-...

    Waiting for it to arrive.

    Michael -

    I wish this step was listed as a warning before lifting the monitor and as the first cable to undo. I broke it as it popped up and out, had to trash my Mac and I am stuck with a new hard drive.

    Frank1701a -

    I followed the directions to a T and everything worked going back together. That cable in step 7 is delicate so one must be very careful.

    dustynnelson -

    Same problem for me. I damaged this cable and am ordering one now.

    This is a tough step so I would also suggest removing this cable first.

    lyleberman -

    Yes, damaged mine too. It is better to take it out of the LCD and install it carefully on the logic board, then install it to the LCD.

    asle -

    Ok finally got the cable and was able to successfully finish the project.

    That video cable is ROUGH to install.

    lyleberman -

    The same thing happened for me. That cable was by far the shortest and a slight pull of the display up caused the connector to come free. Luckily it wasn't damaged by this. It was pretty unclear to me how that connector fit in as well. It slides in and out parallel to the surface of the mother board, up towards the top of the iMac to unplug and down towards the bottom to plug in. I agree, if I were to do this repair again that is the first interior cable I would disconnect. Maybe a closeup of the cable plugged in and unplugged to show exactly how it engages and disengages would be good as well.

    danieljseta -

    It is fine to remove the cable from the logic board when when you remove the screen. But when when assembling back together I found it better to take the LVDS cable out of the LCD and install it carefully on the logic board. Then connect it to the top of the LCD. Also the connector to the LCD is much more solid and not so easy to bend.

    asle -

    This is by far the best way round to do this as trying to refit the cable to the logic board is a complete nightmare.

    Russ -

    I agree with asle, manipulating the display end of the cable would be easier - at least it cannot be any harder then manipulating the motherboard end.

    Jerry -

    well I did all t these steps and now the iMac won't turn on at all. I guess the big cable is not connected to the board as it used to... Mac is out of warranty so it's going out the door. RIP

    Gilbert Palau -

    this thing is super fragile. i had to order a new one. i'd recommend removing the other end at the top of the display.

    m Burm -

    this part is not complicated if you understand at first how the lock works.. remove the lock is easy, reassemble the cable and connect it is very problematic because the space to work is very tiny, but if you are carefully, it should be not a problem . try to see some videos from youtube first!

    Cristian Pizarro -

    This totally blows.. If you want to do this correctly and not destroy your computer over this step, - OWC’s video will show you EXACTLy what to do with the display cable ..

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation...

    Luis Garcia -

    Don’t raise the display more than 3-4 inches. Pull the tape off the back of the display and unhook the cable from the display, instead of trying to remove it from the motherboard. As soon as I raised the display, the cable snapped loose. Ordered a new cable from Amazon. Am waiting to see if works ok.

    john -

    The worst thing about the whole tear-down procedure, was the display data ribbon cable in this step. As others have noted, It popped out of its socket on the mother board while disconnecting the lcd. I didn’t get a chance to see exactly how it connected on to the moboard . I damaged the dainty and minute ribbon end while trying to re-connect it to the wrong side of the receptacle. Duh! I feel so stupid. :(

    I had to order a new ribbon cable ($14) . Luckily, i was able to plug new ribbon into the fragile moboard connector adequately, and then the lcd end, during re-assembly. This re-assembly step is made for a very small person with extremely small hands and big eyes (like someone out of Gulliver’s travels).

    Dan Packard -

    2010 iMac SSD kit from OWC. Their video does not adequately explain the difficulty of re-installing the display port ribbon cable into the logic board. The best procedure would be to follow asle (see prior comment 8/11/15). The problem is exasperated by the fact that the plug into the LCD is covered in tape.

    Devere -

    Why is this not step 5? By the time I lifted display, the cable had already come out. I think it damaged it.

    Greg Cox -

    Got VERY lucky with my SSD replacement. Just leaning the display back popped the cable off the logic board, and I had a very difficult time reinstalling the screen. It might be that the wire bail wasn’t secured in the first place, or the machine has been opened up prior to my obtaining it. I eventually used a parts box to rest the LCD high enough to reinstall the cable. Agree that this should be the first cable to be disconnected and last to be reconnected. Perhaps disconnecting it from the LCD should be considered as a first step?

    phantom -

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    • Desconecta el conector del cable del sensor térmico LCD de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Si tu ventilador gira a toda velocidad después de completarse, verifica esta conexión o el cable del sensor térmico del disco duro.

    Be very careful - this connector very difficult to disconnect, and you have a high risk of pulling the cable pins out of the connect. If you have disconnected the 3 other cables, you can have a helper rotate the screen out of the way while you remove the hard drive.

    Brian Tsai -

    I found this connector impossible to remove

    Anoop Sahal -

    I also found this extremely difficult to remove. Tiny cable with a death grip. I tried using two spudgers, my fingernails, and walking it out. In the end, I used two spudgers and pried it up, using leverage from the clip to the right.

    Also, i recommend setting the iMac upright for this. I rested the screen on my chest while I dual wielded my spudgers.

    Alex Grayson -

    eer ist zerbrochen! hoffe krieg ihn dann trotzdem wieder rein

    Peter Pawlowicz -

    This was connector was impossible to remove. Like a previous commenter, I did this with the machine upright and with the LCD Panel resting on my upper chest. Ultimately, the pins pulled out of the socket! Once they were out, it was relatively easy to remove the socket. I completed the drive replacement, (installed a 1 TB SSD) and then replaced the pins in the socket and reassembled the machine. One mental error I made was I couldn’t remember the correct orientation for the Black and White wires in the socket. In looking at the photos here on iFixIt, it looks like I reversed their orientation. However, the machine seems to be running fine. I installed macos High Sierra and migrated my data from my old HD and the machine has been running for two days now. I would hate to have to go back in and remove the socket and reverse the wire orientation. Anyone have advise on this?

    jmaher -

    In followup to my previous post, I launched TechTool Pro 9.6.1 and ran the Sensors Test. All Sensors tests were passed. These included:

    LCD Proximity, LCD Thermal Compensation 2, LCD Proximity, Thermal Compensation. Machine seems to be running fine.

    jmaher -

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    • Tira con cuidado de la pantalla hacia el borde superior de su iMac y sácala de la carcasa exterior, prestando atención a los cables que puedan quedar atrapados.

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    • Retira los siguientes cuatro tornillos:

    • Un tornillo Torx T10 de 9,3 mm con cabeza grande

    • Tres tornillos Torx T10 de 9,3 mm con cabeza de tamaño normal

    The 4 srews are equal

    hybanibienen -

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    • Tira del conector del sensor térmico de la unidad óptica hacia el borde superior del iMac para desconectarlo de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    No need to do this! Just gently pull up the felt-pad sticky on top of the thermal sensor (looks like a tiny circuit board), then (again gently) peel the thermal sensor off the ODD. Leave it hanging while you remove the ODD and replace it with the SSD, then just put the thermal sensor covered by the protective felt-pad back onto the SSD enclosure.

    cdansmith1 -

    I agree with cdansmith1, above.

    I had removed the sensor completely. Booted up and the fan was like a jet engine - 4200rpm! I opened up the mac again to check the LCD thermal sensor cable was connected properly (as warned in Step 8). It was.

    So, I simply used the spudger to peel off the felt sticky pad from and then the optical drive sensor too from the drive I'd taken out. Stuck the sensor onto the SSD using the same sticky pad, plugged it back into the original socket. Bingo. Booted up and everything was back to normal.

    Monkeyrebirth -

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    • Levanta el borde interior de la unidad óptica y maniobra tu conector más allá del marco de la GPU conectado a la placa lógica.

    • Retira con cuidado la unidad óptica de sus clavijas de montaje en el lado derecho de la carcasa exterior para tener espacio para desconectar el cable de la unidad óptica.

    • Deja que la unidad óptica cuelgue mientras desvías el conector del sensor térmico de la unidad óptica de detrás del disipador de calor de la GPU.

    this part is complicated because the wire is very delicate. when you try to extract it passing through the others elements this wire trap it very easily on the other elements of the logic board

    Cristian Pizarro -

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    • Desconecta el cable de la unidad óptica tirando de su conector para sacarlo de la unidad óptica.

    • Retira la unidad óptica del iMac.

    • No olvides mover también el sensor térmico de la unidad óptica a la carcasa cuando instales la segunda unidad de disco duro.

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    • Retira los tres tornillos Phillips de 3,0 mm de la carcasa de la bahía óptica.

    Hello, is the sata & power cabla from the mac can directly feet inside the SSD?

    Roman Quenin -

    plug in the back of the ssd

    Roman Quenin -

    I'm trying to find out as well. I read elsewhere you need something like this without the bracket: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...

    However I have NOT confirmed this.

    Allen Borza -

    If I understand you correctly; the enclosure allows you to use the existing iMac optical cable. Also the enclosure allows for a safe fitting of the optical drive. In my newer machine I had to double side tape the SSD to the back of the iMac and buy a special cable. Note: this was not an optical drive replacement scenario or I would have done exactly as this tutorial suggests.

    EkDor -

    I bought another caddy, not the one from the description. i had to extract the plastic adaptor from the optical drive and put in on the new caddy 12,7mm

    Cristian Pizarro -

    The SDD caddy I purchased was 22 pin SATA both inside and outside so that the optical drive cable (13 pin) would not fit. Does anyone know where I can find a SDD caddy with 13 pin SATA outside for the optical cable and 22 pin SATA inside for the SDD?

    benja.mcg -

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    • Comenzando desde el borde izquierdo, tira suavemente para abrir la carcasa de la bahía óptica.

    • Continúa tirando para abrir las dos mitades del recinto hasta que se separen.

    This is the 12.7mm caddy.. but, the caddy 9.5 mm fit fine as well? or it doesn't fit on imac mid 2010

    Cristian Pizarro -

    My caddy (ordered 5/2019) had two additional screws that needed to be removed from the sides for it to open.

    mr.kaufman7 -

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    • Quita los dos tornillos Phillips de 3,0 mm que sujetan la placa frontal a la carcasa del compartimiento óptico.

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    • Levanta la placa frontal de plástico negro para sacarla del gabinete del compartimiento óptico.

    • Ya no necesitarás la placa frontal ni los dos tornillos Phillips que la mantenían en su lugar. Deja esas piezas a un lado si alguna vez deseas volver a colocar la placa frontal en la carcasa.

    • Vuelve a ensamblar la carcasa del compartimiento óptico sin la placa frontal, reutilizando los tres tornillos Phillips originales de 3,0 mm para mantenerlo intacto.

    Just curious, why is it necessary to remove this black plastic faceplate from the enclosure? It doesn't appear to serve any function in or out of the enclosure.

    Nic Johnson -

    Maybe because it would interfere with the bracket you have to put back on in step 21?

    Jeff Dickson -

    So I'm confused about the Optical Drive Bracket, the one that originally held the DVD-CD drive. I had an awful time remounting the kit into that bracket as the screws didn't line up correctly. I finally got everything to fit, less one of the four holding screws. Did anyone else experience this problem? I would have expected a much better alignment for this assembly considering the quality of the iFixIt site.

    For the record, the upgrade went fine with a SanDisk Extreme II 480GB SSD, but that one step was next to impossible, and not covered in any detail by the instructions.

    Ron Lockhart -

    Yep, I had exactly the same problem. The alignment was way off.

    olafgoy -

    My kit also did not line up correctly. I had to put all four screws in at an angle cross-threaded to mount the unit.

    Kevo -

    Same here. managed to get two screws in at a decent angle on one side and couldn't get the others in. Felt solid enough once I'd screwed the original ODD casing back onto the iMac.

    Monkeyrebirth -

    I had the same alignment problem, too. I ended up removing the rubber grommets from the plastic enclosure, widening the holes with a small file, then replacing the grommets. All four screws went in, but not in perfect alignment. Should be ok, though.

    nickmalmquist -

    Another possibility is the part has been designed to be used with different types of iMac and some utilise this component. In this case it apparently doesn't.

    EkDor -

    I bought a different enclosure than the one recommended ($18 instead of $39) and it came with new screws because the old screws were too big to fit in the holes for the new enclosure.

    Keith Mewis -

    Hi. Which enclosure did you buy? link please.

    Alex -

    Where did you get the alternative enclosure from?

    Walter Poole -

    I completed this guide last night on my iMac and it all worked great until I got to step 26 and none of the holes on the 12.7 mm PATA Optical Bay SATA Hard Drive Enclosure lined up with the black plastic faceplate. Just like what is being commented on by previous fixers, I could only get 2 screws on one side of the enclosure in, but they were crooked and unable to screw in all the way. It was crude, but it worked.

    The rest of this guide works flawlessly. This is a great site!

    Marc -

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    • Retira el posicionador de plástico de la carcasa de la unidad de disco duro del compartimiento óptico presionando uno de los clips a cada lado y levantándolo hacia arriba y sacándolo de la carcasa.

    What’s the switch for on the inside of the caddy? What position should it be in? Mine came switched to the right (towards SATA connector that disk inserts into).

    Robert Lord -

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    • Asegúrate de que los conectores del disco duro estén hacia abajo antes de colocarlo en la carcasa.

    • Coloca con cuidado el disco duro en la ranura para discos duros de la carcasa.

    • Mientras sostienes firmemente la carcasa en su lugar con una mano, usa la otra mano para presionar el disco duro en los conectores de la carcasa.

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    • Una vez que el disco duro esté ajustado, vuelve a insertar el posicionador de plástico mientras sujetas el disco duro contra la parte inferior de la carcasa.

    • Vuelve a conectar cualquier cable que hayas quitado de la unidad óptica original en la carcasa del compartimiento óptico.

    Why no mention of attaching the new hard drive to the Optical Drive Enclosure using the enclosed phillips screws?

    Once you have securely inserted the new hard drive into the Optical Drive Enclosure and replaced the plastic positioner you should attach the drive to the enclosure using two of the provided phillips screws. Two holes on the underside of the enclosure should align with two attachment holes on the underside of the drive.

    nickmalmquist -

    I suspect that the plastic positioner will secure the drive well enough (for this style of adapter). As I mentioned in earlier comment, this should mean you can replace / upgrade the SATA drive later without needing to remove the adapter, skipping many steps.

    Les Kitchen -

    Do you need a sata cable to connect the new drive to the board or does it connect via the optical drive cable that we disconnected earlier?

    Erik Sawaya -

    It does connect to the optical drive cable but if you don't use the optical bay enclosure you'll need a 13 pins to 22 pins sata adaptor (and some tape!)

    The sata cable for the optical drive has 6 + 7 pins while ssd and hhd have 15 + 7 pins

    Graziano Nora -

    Can someone please explain why you need to remove the black plastic faceplate  from the optical bay enclosure. It is designed to receive the standard SSD. What is gained from removing a part of it?

    Peter Bull -

    Thank you! This guy has made upgrading the mid 2010 iMac I inherited from my mom MUCH easier and saved me a lot of time, trial, and error.

    Rob Anthony Dire -

    My Penrynn Super Drive has PATA connector, and now is a fossil grade rarity :-(

    IMI Comp -

    I'm a little confused. Do I need the enclosure from ifixit or am I removing the optical drive and installing an ssd in the preexisting op drive enclosure? If using the already existing enclosure what type of ssd do I need as for Sata connectors?

    danielpainter65 -

Conclusión

Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

Autor

Brittany McCrigler

Miembro Desde 05/03/12

88184 Reputación

13 comentarios

Well, actually, it was much easier than I thought.

The only problem about this is that the hard drive temperature sensor cable. Even I bought the same brand HD, it still doesn't work. So I have to install fan control to control the fan speed.

But other than that, it works very smooth. The speed is great.

Thanks, ifixit. The home tech toolkit is great and really helpful.

abouthui -

Hi. I wanna know if is mandatory to connect the SSD with enclosure or it's possible to connect directly to SATA cable like on model EMC 2428 that has an third SATA conector free and then fix the SSD to back panel with 3M

Ibai Bi -

Im pretty sure if you want to just mount it with tape that would be perfectly fine. Had mine apart and even thought about it myself before properly mounting it.

scottmcintyre -

2389 doesnt support this. cd player isnt even sata

ty no ty

Martijn Potman -

I just replaced with a 250GB SSD... So yes it does support this.

scottmcintyre -

Well this was the second time taking the iMac apart as I had ordered an mSATA drive instead of SATA for the Optical bay swap. Got it apart and back together pretty fast and without issues except for the mounting bracket from the Optical drive doesn't fit that great onto the HD mount to replace it. The kit almost needs to come with a custom fitting mount piece but then again that would just cost more money.

OH!!!! and the kit I bought there was no need whatsoever to take the optical replacement mount apart... it was all in one piece and good to go, just don't forget the little set screw that secure the 2.5" drive into the mount which like others have noted are not in the instructions.

scottmcintyre -

i cannot find the correct specs for the sata speed of the optical drive on imac 2010 21.5 EMC 2389.

Some say it's Sata II (3Gb/s), other say it's Sata I (1.5Gb/s).

i know that the hard drive is Sata II so Depending on the info i would consider swapping the SSD for the HDD slot and puting the SSD in the optical drive slot.

thanks

Tel Test -

I had this done by an apple service agent but sometimes my iMac does not see the SSD as the boot drive can you advise.

Robert Bruce -

Thanks a lot! very descriptive and useful!! work for me on iMac mid 2010, 21'5.

Cristian Pizarro -

This fix isn’t that hard at all. Loving the process of working on this and now my mac runs pretty smooth. Worth the effort!

Supa tamraksa -

I install a second SSD hard drive as explain in this tutorial. Everything goes well, but now I have a lot of system's crash.

I don't know if it is a software problem or an hardware? Is it possible that itis due to the temperature?

Dominique Belge -

Just completed this upgrade on my 2010 21.5’ iMac, took just over an hour and up and running with no issues of far!

stuarthannon -

I did the same upgrade with two Crucial MX500 240GB SSDs. After installation, i used disk utility to create a Raid-0 config. Now i have 450-550MB/s read/write speeds. I’m using High Sierra. To do this, create an installer disk using dosdude’s High Sierra Patcher tool. Boot into the install, create a raid-0 setup in Disk Utility and just install High Sierra. You need the dosdude’s installer, because the original one doesn’t want to install onto a raid device…

gtpassatgt -