Instalación del Disco Duro Dual del MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010

Escrito Por: iRobot
  • Comentarios: 46
Instalación del Disco Duro Dual del MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010

Dificultad

Moderado

Pasos

19

Tiempo Requerido

20 - 30 minutos

Introducción

Hay muchos beneficios al agregar un segundo disco duro a tu computadora portátil, como velocidades mejoradas, mayor espacio de almacenamiento y menos dolores de cabeza al instalar un nuevo software. Utiliza esta guía para instalar uno utilizando nuestra carcasa de disco duro de puerto óptico.

  1. dOyroxuUBfNu1T4K

    • Retira los siguientes 10 tornillos que sujetan la tapa inferior del MacBook Pro 13 "Unibody:

    • Siete tornillos Phillips de 3 mm.

    • Tres tornillos Phillips de 13,5 mm.

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    David Kilbridge -

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover -

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh -

    I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)

    Cary B -

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    • Levanta ligeramente la tapa inferior y empuja hacia la parte posterior para liberarlo de las pestañas que lo sujetan

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike -

    Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.

    Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!

    Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.

    Am I allowed to cry?

    Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.

    IFIXIT - IDIGIT!

    kath myers -

    HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

    That was a brilliant read.

    Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.

    Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.

    :)

    Cary B -

  3. B1SUXfcr5fruMavs

    • Por razones de precaución, le recomendamos que desconecte el conector de la batería de la placa lógica para evitar cualquier descarga eléctrica.

    • Utilice el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería hacia arriba fuera de su toma en la placa lógica.

    Cita de gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung -

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond -

  4. f1PBEcXqISgoBBeE

    • Por precaución, te recomendamos que desconectes el conector del subwoofer de la placa lógica para evitar cualquier descarga eléctrica. Este paso es opcional y no es obligatorio.

    • Retira el acolchado suave que puede estar en la parte superior y tira suavemente del conector para sacarlo de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    It is not necessary to remove the camera cable connector (step 5) or the camera cable connector (step 10). Simply push the camera cable gently aside to remove one of the three screws securing the optical drive (step 11). Gently wiggle the optical drive from under the camera cable connector and go to step 12. Less chance of ruining your motherboard!

    tomhart -

    Absolutely. Leave it alone, you don’t need to run the risks of removing this cable, I did the replacement fine without it

    Steven Taylor -

    It does indeed come out of the connector, but the picture makes it hard to see how; the connector it goes into sits on top of the board—however, I, too, ripped mine off the board trying to remove it; I only got it out of the clip after I tore it off. SIMPLY DONT; it's unnecessary. I plan to solder it back if one of my Robotics club friends lets me borrow a soldering iron.

    Rachel -

    Alors je déconseille très fortement de toucher ce connecteur, il est extrêmement fragile. De plus, cela n’a pas d’incidence sur la suite des opérations

    Laskoni -

    The author needs to go back through this guide and correct lots of order mistakes. The fan was removed in steps 3-5 yet it’s still being shown installed in steps 19-22.

    plink53 -

  5. UqV1W6hCDkuY3GX5

    • Será necesario deslizar el pequeño retenedor de cable de plástico transparente (recuadro en rojo) pegado a la placa lógica antes de desconectar el cable de la cámara. Ten cuidado de no romper ningún componente de la placa al deslizarla para separarla del conector del cable de la cámara.

    • Tira del conector del cable de la cámara hacia la unidad óptica para desconectarlo de la placa lógica.

    • Este enchufe es de metal y se puede doblar fácilmente. Asegúrate de alinear el conector con su zócalo en la placa lógica antes de acoplar las dos piezas.

    I just completed this replacement and there is no need to do this step, you can work around this cable pretty easily. Obviously you need to be careful "dancing" around it. But it's perfectly feasible and you don't risk to break stuff disconnecting it.

    Massimo C -

  6. tuxg3OGGIPuIuMRY

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para sacar el conector de la unidad óptica de la placa lógica.

  7. TNOtRX5FDIQsFoLK

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para sacar el conector del disco duro de la placa lógica.

  8. wSQNxJGjLUTNfdTP

    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que aseguran el altavoz a la tapa superior

    • Un tornillo 3.8 mm Philips

    • Un tornillo Philips 5 mm

    On my computer, the 3.8 mm screw was near the midpoint of the subwoofer (left-to-right in the photo) and near the bottom. The 5 mm screw was top right of the subwoofer.

    BobG -

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    • El altavoz aún está conectado, así que no lo remuevas por completo aún.

    • Levanta el altavoz de la unidad óptica y ponlo a un lado de la computadora.

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    • Remueve los dos tornillos Philips de 10 mm que aseguran el soporte del cable de la cámara a la tapa superior.

    • El tornillo restante puede quedar asegurado en el cable de la cámara.

    • Levanta el soporte del cable de la cámara fuera de la tapa superior.

  11. w3ESKYtGUsAGmLAx
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    • Remueve los tres tornillos Phillips de 2.5 mm que aseguran la unidad óptica a la tapa superior.

    • Levanta la unidad óptica desde la esquina derecha y retírala de la computadora.

    Install 2 outside screws first and then single inside screw to allow wiggle room to get outside screws in. Do not tighten screws until all are started.

    JASON CULP -

  12. t2AC6iBmY1fJY5TH

    • Retira el cable de la unidad óptica tirando de él hacia afuera de la unidad óptica.

    • Este conector es particularmente profundo, así que asegúrate de alejarte de la unidad en el centro del conector.

    • Si tienes un CD o cualquier otro objeto atascado en tu unidad óptica, tenemos una guía de reparación de unidades ópticas.

  13. mWZIFgpAZtqsZpSB

    • Retira los dos tornillos negros Phillips #0 que sujetan el soporte de montaje de metal pequeño. Transfiere este soporte a su nueva unidad óptica o caja de disco duro.

  14. WPcg6hfCMkTtjj2Q
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    • Retira el separador de plástico de la bahía del disco óptico presionando los cierres a cada lado, levántalo y sácalo de la bahía.

    is it 9,5mm or 12,7mm for the caddy? My stuff macbook pro mid 2010, need advice what size is compatible. Thank you

    Adi Purba -

    All Macbooks use 9.5mm Optical Drive Caddy, also, If you’re wondering as well, the Optical Drive runs at SATA II speeds just like with the main hard drive area, so if you’re using a SSD, then it’s going to run at a slightly slower speed.

    - PS5iscool - -

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    • Asegúrate de que los conectores del disco duro miran hacia abajo antes de colocarlo en el hueco de la bahía.

    • Coloca con cuidado el disco duro en el hueco insertándolo en la ranura.

    • Mientras sujetas la bahía con una mano, presiona el disco duro con la otra mano para insertarlo en los conectores.

    Okay it seems like some models of MacBook Pro have issues with a fast (6Gbit/s) SSD in the optical bay. Even though my Mac says it offers 6Gbit on both bays it simply didn't work in the optical bay. So I switched places between the two drives and everything seems to work. My Mac booted from the old HDD in optical bay automatically and then I cloned it afterwards and changed the startup disk to the new one. As said before, don't put a fast SSD in the optical bay!

    Carl -

    This is an extremely late response to an old comment, but… whatev’s. My 2011 MacBook Pro had that issue: the main (HDD bay) SATA operated at 6Gbit, and while the optical bay said it was 6Gbit, the “Negotiated Link Speed” was like 1.5Gbits regardless of what you put in it (I can understand 1.5Gbits for an optical drive, but not for an SSD). Some of the early 2012 models did the same thing, from what I understand, but that was corrected pretty early on; both my 13” and 15” 2012’s run at 6Gb/s on both SATA busses.

    AJH -

    It’s not wise to swop the optidrive for an HD as there is no physical protection. The caddy is only intended for an SSD.

    Ben Ormerod -

  16. 4bUrYFHS5udDCnIj
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    • Una vez has ajustado el disco duro en su sitio, reinserta hasta el fondo el espaciador de plástico en el hueco.

    Normally with the HD enclosure there come a set of screws. use these to screw down the HD in the enclosure since you need to flip it up side down to reinstall it into the MBP

    Bart -

  17. oXd3ohEWeSgsIcWE
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    • Atornilla dos tornillos Phillips #1 para fijar el disco duro a su bahía.

    Where are these screws coming from? Were they part of the original optical drive?

    Bradley DeHerrera -

    The new enclosure should include these two Phillips screws.

    Sam Omiotek -

    Can someone show the step of removal process of hdd/SSD placed in the caddy? I am unable to revert this process. Do we have to apply back greater force to remove back the hard drive/SSD from the caddy?

    Tarun Kumar Verma -

    Gads, I wish they made a caddy where the optical drive was removable without having to remove the entire caddy. That is a major peeve of mine. Like… just mount it the other way! I don’t want to have to go through this entire process every time I upgrade the secondary drive.

    AJH -

    These screws seems to be located in different places on different enclosures. I had serious trouble getting the SSD that the previous owner of this MacBook installed out of the enclosure until I realized the screws holding the SSD in place were on the side and not on the bottom. In case anyone else has the same issue!

    nessie1001 -

  18. wULpD1PuEZU6bo1R

    • Fija el soporte del disco duro a la nueva bahía con dos tornillos Phillips #0.

    • Reconecta todos los cables que hayas desconectado del lector de discos ópticos original a la nueva bahía.

    Replaced the optical with hdd, as well as replaced the hard drive with an ssd. Now I get the circle with a line through it. But, when I hold the option key down, it gives me both hard drives, PLUS, the thumb drive I have in the USB port with a Mountain Lion installer. It even shows the recovery disks, but gives me the circle with the line when I choose one. Any help is appreciated.

    claude -

    Mate,

    My mbp shipped with OS 10.8, and I had upgraded twice to 10.10

    I've a 10.7 USB which upgraded my old MBP.

    My plan today was to boot with my new ssd, my time machine back up and the Lion usb plugged in.

    I would then click on the Lion usb, and tell it to put the OS and time machine back up on the ssd.

    So I help down ALT and when it started it gave me the options of the usual Mac internal or the Lion USB.

    I clicked Lion, but instead of taking me to the install options (Disk utility, restore from time machine etc etc) it gave me that grey circle with a diagonal line through it. The no entry sign - grey on grey - that I think you have.

    Some googling said that it is because I was trying to usb a 10.7 install on a MBP that shipped 10.8

    You can't go back, apparently.

    So if any of the OSs are older than the mac you got, you will get this error. The grey in grey no entry.

    I just cloned my HDD to my ssd (Carbon copy cloner free 30 day trial) using an external stat-usb3 wire and all is good.

    Rory -

    I have a 17" Macbook Pro6,1 unibody with an Intel Core i5, 2.53GHz. I was successful installing a 250GB SSD in the DVD bay, and I'm able to boot from it. I did this by first installing OS X 10.9.4 on the SSD mounted into an external HD case, testing the system to see if it would boot up into the SSD, then installing the SSD and carrier in the DVD drive bay. The system now boots up from the SSD with no problems. If you are having installation problems, I recommend trying this method.

    roger hall -

    I just have finished installing second SSD to my MBP (unibody 15` 2010).

    First one was changed like one year ago. Samsung 500GB SSD. It is in my HDD bay and I'm running system from it.

    Today I put a new Samsung 1TB 850 Evo 1 SSD in to my optic bay.

    I encounter problem with SSD not recognized by Finder.

    But It was recognized by Disk Utility.

    What I did was I erase new SSD by Disk Utility. Then the new partition was created and now It has been seen by Finder.

    So If you see it in Disk Utility just erased it.

    Some extra info in under this link--> https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-4...

    Wish you all luck :)

    rybafly -

    My installation went great thanks to the guide. I did notice a small thing that might make a good tip, and that is to inspect all the visible screws. I saw one that was slightly raised, and when I poked around with the spudger, I found 2 more that had worked themselves out a bit. Its probably something super rare but at the age of these things, it wouldn't hurt to check.

    Tineyi Chapisa -

  19. 3GeKNgsubSw2qWpF
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    • ¡No tires el lector! Puedes usarlo de manera externa con nuestro cable SATA USB lector óptico.

    • Alinea el conector SATA del cable con el puerto del lector y conéctalo cuidadosamente.

    • Conecta el conector USB a tu portátil. Tu lector óptico está listo.

    There is a small metal button in the front of the drive and you can use that to eject the drive if you were wondering.

    Joseph Landry -

    Maybe that explain the eject button mechanism maybe….

    - PS5iscool - -

    Die neue SSD wurde durch das Laufwerk ersetzt aber leider wird jetzt die alte HDD nicht mehr erkannt. Hatte schon ein anderer das Problem?

    Alexander Richter -

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue las instrucciones en orden inverso.

Autor

iRobot

Miembro Desde 25/09/09

0 Reputación

4 comentarios

I bought a 1TB SSD/hybrid drive from Ifixit.com to upgrade the 256GB HDD that came with MBP 2010. Disk Utility could not see the new drive on the original HDD cable but saw the old one just fine. New replacement cable was not the correct size for the MBP 2010 but worked just fine in my other MBP 2012. Put the stock HDD back in with the original HDD cable, removed the optical drive and replaced with the 1TB dual drive per instructions without problems. I have read online that the SATA HDD cable in MBP 2009 and early 2010 was too slow to read modern high-speed SATA drives.

Only glitch I found is DVD/CDs will not mount in the optical drive using the external USB cable that came with the dual disk kit purchased here. Will eventually have to find time to try swapping the optical drive with my other laptop to test internally as well as the external cable. At this point I don't care, didn't use the optical, love the two working internal disk drives. Thanks guys!

Bob -

I replaced Primary HDD with SSD and moved HDD to optical slot with caddy, and it seems works, but HDD in optical slot is incredibly slow now. Macbook 7.1. Sierra. SSD Savage 250Gb.

Roman Nicolaevich -

Smoooooth, like butta. Thanks for another great guide and parts. My 2010 macbook pro now has an ssd running fast w sierra, and my conventional drive for lots of storage. About $200 for ssd and the parts, and my computer will be in good shape for a few more years!

Brian Eldridge -

Merci beaucoup, c'est génial ! J'ai juste eu des difficultés avec le connecteur du caisson basse. Je l'ai enlevé et impossible de le remettre en place. C'est sans conséquence pour moi, j'utilise la sortie audio.

Bravo et encore merci !

Laskoni -