MacBook Pro 13 "Unibody Mid 2009 Reemplazo de la cubierta del embrague

Escrito Por: Andrew Bookholt
  • Comentarios: 37
MacBook Pro 13 "Unibody Mid 2009 Reemplazo de la cubierta del embrague

Dificultad

Difícil

Pasos

17

Tiempo Requerido

No hay estimado

Introducción

utilizar esta guía para reemplazar una cubierta de embrague de plástico dañada.

  1. dOyroxuUBfNu1T4K

    • Retira los siguientes 10 tornillos que sujetan la tapa inferior del MacBook Pro 13 "Unibody:

    • Siete tornillos Phillips de 3 mm.

    • Tres tornillos Phillips de 13,5 mm.

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    David Kilbridge -

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover -

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh -

    I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)

    Cary B -

  2. bLtKOLyJdyAxkZaG

    • Levanta ligeramente la tapa inferior y empuja hacia la parte posterior para liberarlo de las pestañas que lo sujetan

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike -

    Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.

    Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!

    Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.

    Am I allowed to cry?

    Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.

    IFIXIT - IDIGIT!

    kath myers -

    HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

    That was a brilliant read.

    Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.

    Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.

    :)

    Cary B -

  3. B1SUXfcr5fruMavs

    • Por razones de precaución, le recomendamos que desconecte el conector de la batería de la placa lógica para evitar cualquier descarga eléctrica.

    • Utilice el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería hacia arriba fuera de su toma en la placa lógica.

    Cita de gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung -

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond -

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    • Utilice el extremo plano de un spudger para mover el subwoofer / conector del cable del altavoz derecho hacia arriba fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Tenga mucho cuidado de presionar debajo del conector como se muestra, y no debajo del enchufe en sí. De lo contrario, puede separar accidentalmente el zócalo de la placa lógica.

    Please Be Carefully With This Step, Because I Had To Resolder It Back To The Logic Board. But There Is A Black Foam Piece Over The Cable You Have To Pry Up, Lift The Foam Piece And Then Try To CAREFULLY Pry Cable Connector

    BWilliams842 -

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    • Desconecta el cable de la cámara deslizándolo horizontalmente fuera de su zócalo.

    • Tira del cable paralelo a la superficie de la placa lógica, en la dirección de la unidad óptica. No tires hacia arriba o destruirás el conector.

    • Si ves un pequeño retenedor de plástico adherido a la placa lógica que evita que el cable de la cámara se deslice, quítalo con cuidado de la placa lógica. Aplica un poco de calor con un secador de pelo o una pistola de aire caliente si es necesario para ayudar a suavizar el adhesivo que lo mantiene en su lugar.

    • No intentes desconectar a la fuerza el cable con el retenedor en su lugar.

    • Si aún tiense problemas, usa la punta de un spudger para empujar cada lado del conector y "camina" lentamente para sacarlo de su zócalo.

    Be careful to the piece of plastic that prevents camera cable failing out its socket! Do not force connector! Look at plastic before attempting to remove connector Plastic is partially covered by cdrom flat connector at right of camera cable connector

    Silvio -

    This step is unnecessarily tricky. I’ve tried to make it better by adding images highlighting the plastic stopper thingy and showing a clear arrow of the direction the cable should be pulled.

    However, simply pulling the cable may not be enough to remove it. It sure wasn’t for me. I think there ought to be a close-up of the two little nubbins on the sides of the plug which one uses to wiggle it loose from the connector by gently prying with a tiny flathead screwdriver. I didn’t add that tip because (a) it would have made the instructions longer, (b) I didn’t think to take a photo of it, and (c) using a screwdriver carelessly next to the logic board could scratch or break components on the motherboard. A guitar pick or very small spudger might work.

    hackerb9 -

    @hackerb9 Thanks for your edits and comments! I took some additional shots and tried to clean this up a little for everyone. There should be a lot less confusion now. Interestingly, neither of the two MacBook Pros used for these guides had the plastic retainer piece you folks mentioned, but I left that image in a link so everyone can still see what it looks like if needed.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thanks for incorporating some of my edits and for taking new photos.

    Are you the one who took the original photographs? If so, you did originally have the hard plastic retainer as it was in those photos, just obscured by your thumbnail. The glue on the retainer allows it to shift a bit, so it's possible you took out the cable and knocked off the retainer without noticing it.

    Your two frame animation of pulling out the plug is helpful to show the proper direction. Given the number of people who have destroyed their MacBooks from this procedure, I think we should do even better. The instruction would be clearer if it said, “Disconnect the camera cable by sliding it horizontally out of its socket.”

    Also, if you can post a link to a picture without fingers in the shot, I will add an arrow showing the proper direction. (I would have added it to the original, but visually it would have gone through your fingers.)

    hackerb9 -

    P.s. this isn't as important, but where did you hear the tip about the hairdryer? I'd leave that out as firmly peeling it up works fine.

    hackerb9 -

    Negative, I’m not the original photographer. You’re right, I do see the retainer in some of the previous photos, although it wasn’t in any of the images for this particular step. May have been an oversight on the part of the original author! So I’m glad you caught it. I updated the verbiage as you requested. Don’t worry about adding arrows—at this point, if someone ignores both the images and the multiple warnings in the text, that’s no longer a fault with the guide. The heat/hairdryer tip is standard practice for anything that’s secured with adhesive—I hardly ever work on a MacBook of any vintage without using a heat gun at least a couple times. It may not be strictly necessary, but the result is much cleaner and it reduces the risk of accident.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  6. 2CuX4NnYgJAYMCVV

    • Desvíe el cable de datos de la cámara del canal de la unidad óptica.

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    • Retire los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el cable de datos de la cámara y el altavoz derecho a la caja superior:

    • Dos tornillos Phillips de 8 mm.

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 4mm.

    • Uno de los tornillos Phillips de 8 mm probablemente permanecerá cautivo en el bucle de tierra del cable de la cámara.

    • Resbala el soporte del cable de la cámara hacia afuera desde debajo del subwoofer y retírelo del la computadora.

  8. OtImO3lYHNGS6wlK
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    • Agarre la lengüeta de tracción de plástico asegurada al bloqueo del cable de datos de la pantalla y gírela hacia el lado DC-in del equipo.

    • retire el conector del cable de datos de la pantalla directamente de su toma.

    • Asegúrese de tirar del conector directamente y no hacia arriba de su toma.

    Well, my display ended up looking like this after the repair:

    http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h366...

    As you can see, there was a light/dark banded pattern along the bottom of the screen, corresponding to the LCD's backlight. In my case it was also accompanied by a constant high pitched whistling noise. I swear to anything that's holy, it was not coming from the fan or the speaker, but rather the motherboard itself.

    Anyway, both these problems went away when I disconnected and reconnected the connector at this stage. I'm saying this on the off chance it helps someone else.

    Jonty Levine -

    It's not to clear but there is a piece of spring steel that rotates away from the main (circuit board side) of the connector....this piece sort of hugs the parameter of the screen cable locking it to the circuit board...both arms wrapped around your brother....looking closely (10x magnifier) at this cable one of the gold connections is slightly oxidized---my display arbitrarily flickers and this symptom is lessened as the temperature increases...I suspect this is the cuase of the screen flashing on/off

    brian62 -

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    • Quite los dos tornillos siguientes que sujetan el soporte del cable de datos de la pantalla a la caja superior:

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 7 mm.

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 5 mm.

    • Levante el soporte del cable de datos de la pantalla fuera de la caja superior.

  10. w4PaV4Ytic61NKUn
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    • Usa tu destornillador Torx para quitar los dos tornillos exteriores de 6,5 mm que sujetan cada uno de los dos soportes de la pantalla a la carcasa superior (4 tornillos en total).

    • Los modelos de mediados de 2009 requieren un destornillador Torx T6, mientras que los modelos de mediados de 2010 requieren un T8.

    Hey folks, regarding the screw/driver sizes: there are separate guides for the Mid 2010 model with the T8 screws. Always use the correct guide for your model to avoid confusion, stripped screws, etc. Hope this helps!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  11. c6INZGJPJQqTlMW6

    • Abra su MacBook para que la pantalla sea perpendicular a la mayúscula.

    • Coloque su MacBook abierto en una mesa como se ilustra.

    • Mientras sujetas la pantalla y la carcasa superior con la mano izquierda, utiliza el destornillador Torx para quitar el tornillo restante de 6,5 mm del soporte inferior de la pantalla.

  12. rOIast44GfWa55h6

    • Asegúrate de sujetar la pantalla y la mayúscula junto con la mano izquierda. Si no lo haces, la pantalla liberada / mayúscula puede caer, dañando potencialmente cada componente.

    • Retira el último tornillo Torx de 6 mm que fija la pantalla en la parte superior.

    Removing the screen assembly this way, with the computer standing on edge, is needlessly risky and difficult. By the 5th or 6th time I did this procedure (of perhaps a hundred), it dawned on me that there’s a way, way easier method for the whole lid removal job: 1. After removing the bottom cover and disconnecting power, hang the open laptop, keyboard down, facing away, over the edge of your work table with the lid assembly hanging down, monitor facing toward the table and pushed against the table edge. (If you’re klutzy, tape the main body to the table so it can’t slide around.) 2. With the unit positioned this way, you can easily disconnect the various cables & remove the 6 hinge screws. Now the lid assembly will just be hanging, easy to lift away from the main body without difficulty or danger. 3. Reverse this to put it back together.

    clinton -

    Nice tip, Clinton! I’ll have to try that next time. Do you have photos of how it is done so this guide can be updated?

    hackerb9 -

  13. ZYiiL2jdwOpXXcvJ
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    • Coge la parte inferior con la mano derecha y gírala ligeramente hacia la parte superior de la pantalla para que el soporte de la pantalla superior despeje el borde inferior.

    • Gire la pantalla levemente lejos de la parte inferior

  14. ntBnWP6Z11ASxKLP

    • Levante la pantalla hacia arriba y lejos de la parte superior, teniendo en cuenta los soportes o cables que pueden quedar atrapados.

    Re-assembly hint: Laying the base, keyboard down, on a table top with the hinge side over the edge about 1/2" toward you is a more stable position for re-assembly than trying to do this up on its edge. This has the added benefit of being able to reinsert the torn screws vertically.

    Pete H -

    May be in the wrong place but then please direct me. At this step, can I just take off the upper half (meaning the screen, LCD, and top housing shell in one) and simply replace it with another upper half of the same edition???

    cmackay13stmarys -

    Yes, you can. Thanks what I'm doing now. :)

    Mike Mayaka -

  15. wgRoBlTmHppiPiwQ
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    • Agarre la cubierta del embrague como se muestra y deslícela hacia el lado derecho de la pantalla.

    • Debería moverse aproximadamente 1/4 "y detenerse. No lo fuerce más allá de este punto.

    i've found this impossible to get back on correctly.

    i cant get the plastic to slide back that 1/4" it needs to fit properly

    Does anyone know any tricks? :(

    Ashley Berthon -

    imagine the monitor upside down and the screen facing away from you. You have to put the cover over to the right of where it goes about an inch or 2 and it will go in, then, slide it left to lock it into place

    stdonato -

    I was replacing a clutch cover that had cracked into a few pieces. I found the replacement didn’t slide to the left on installation. On further investigation I found the tabs from the old one were broken off inside where the cover slides. Once they were removed the install wen much better.

    I found my replacement cover on Amazon.ca in case someone needs a Canadian source.

    Dean Landry -

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    • Balancee suavemente la cubierta del embrague hacia adelante y hacia atrás en su eje largo mientras lo retira de la pantalla

    • Haga esta acción a lo largo de la longitud de la tapa del embrague hasta que pueda levantarla del marco y conectarla a la pantalla.

  17. iegYVqjNQuaLTiBw

    • Retire la tapa del embrague de la pantalla.

    The flat face goes on the bottom edge of the display. The display and wifi cables must be routed below the hinges in the display, that is, closer to the bottom edge of the display.

    Robert Rossi -

Conclusión

Para volver a armar su dispositivo, siga estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

Autor

Andrew Bookholt

578639 Reputación

3 comentarios

For Step 17...if you are going to be touching the hinge screws on the display, you should consider using Loctite on them when you tighten them. I used this guide to tighten mine, but they worked loose again.

richard waters -

Great guide, no issues at all. I skipped Step 4 (removing subwoofer cable) after reading the comments.

Rachael Burke -

Vielen Dank, tolle Anleitung, hat alles super soweit funktioniert, nur die neue Abdeckung macht beim öffnen des MacBooks jetzt leichte Schleifgeräusche…

Aber viel besser als vor der Reparatur.

Dirk Linzel -