Procedimiento de apertura de Google Pixel 2

Escrito Por: Adam O'Camb
  • Comentarios: 35
Procedimiento de apertura de Google Pixel 2

Dificultad

Moderado

Pasos

11

Tiempo Requerido

20 - 40 minutos

Introducción

Guía pre-requisito solamente para remover la pantalla de tu Pixel 2.

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    • Si tu pantalla de cristal está rasgada, coloca cinta sobre el cristal para prevenir lastimarte y que se rompa más. Esto además hace que la superficie sea lisa lo que permite que la ventosa se adhiera.

    • Aplica una ventosa lo más cerca posible del borde del teléfono donde se encuentra el botón de volumen evitando el borde curvado.

    • La ventosa no se sellará bien en la parte curvada del cristal.

    My screen is severly cracked. I would recommend clear packaging tape as it is wide enough to accomodate the suction cup. Thinner cellophane tape won’t seal properly.

    John Tippitt -

    Does the Google Pixel 2 have be powered off before removing the digitizer screen? Its not mentioned in this article...

    Will the phone be damaged if the power is still on when disconnecting the broken screen?

    Alex -

    Replacing the battery in my Pixel 2 was successful because I read the comments. They are invaluable in this endeavor.

    David Castro -

    Suggest procedure revision:

    Step 1: Read all steps and associated comments before proceeding.

    Step 2: Ensure they supplied you with the right F$%^ING TOOLS in the kit before proceeding.

    I'm F$%^ED because any store around me that might have this T4 Torx bit is already closed and my screen is already off. My kit came with a T2 Torx bit which is not used anywhere in this entire process.

    Jens Davidsen -

    I bought one of the kits and it had everything needed to change the battery except the alcohol, including spudgers, screwdriver, torx (2 sizes), tweezer, alcohol dispenser, glue strips and die-cut glue card that fit the phone case perfectly. I followed these instructions and read the comments. Applied alcohol and patience, took my time and got the job done without any damage to the phone. Thank you ifixit!

    Jeffrey Price -

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    • Tira de la ventosa con presión constante y firme e inserta una púa de apertura entre el panel frontal y caja trasera.

    • No insertes la púa más de 1.5 mm, o arriesgas dañar el panel OLED.

    • Esto requiere una gran cantidad de fuerza y paciencia. Si tienes problemas, mueve la ventosa y pantalla para ablandar el adhesivo o aplicar calor con una pistola de calor, iOpener o secador de pelo.

    • El panel de visualización es frágil. Si planeas reutilizar su pantalla, ten cuidado de insertar tu herramienta solo lo necesario para separar el adhesivo. Insertar la herramienta más puede dañar el panel OLED debajo del vidrio.

    They cannot emphasize enough how careful you need to be when separating the screen. The iOpener does not work well enough to prevent breakage (opinion). I spent a majority of the hour and forty five minutes replacing my battery on removing the screen, i.e. reheating the iOpener, warming the device, slowly, with multiple passes, separating the adhesive. Use a heat gun or blow dryer.

    Devin McMillen -

    How many passes do I need? I do have a heatgun but I’m afraid to discolor or damage the screen. Anyone know the best temp before stopping to seperate the screen?

    Sen Lin -

    try the alcohol as instructed instead of heat. “Do not heat your phone. If needed, you can use a dropper or syringe to inject isopropyl alcohol (90+%) around the edges of the back cover to weaken the adhesive.  “

    Rogerio Sa -

    Make sure to remove the adhesive under the top and bottom speakers to make it much easier to remove the screen.

    Chibi Chica -

    Isopropyl alcohol works well to loosen the adhesive. However - GO SLOW. Slide the pick a bit, then apply some isopropyl alcohol into the gap where you’re sliding toward. Wait a moment, then slide a bit more. Move very slowly, particularly around the corners!

    Raquel Smith -

    Any idea on what to do when the suction cup pops off of the screen before there’s enough clearance to slide the pick in?

    Douglas Leenhouts -

    I used a hairdryer to weaken the adhesive. If you place your finger in the path of the hairdryer you’ll have a good idea of when too much heat has been applied (when your skin becomes unhappy at the temperature). BE VERY GENTLE. I cracked my screen because I didn’t weaken the adhesive enough. I also chipped(dog eared) the corner of the OLED screen underneath with one of the plastic tools. Don’t stick it in too far. As the guide says, use the flat edge or the pick to help control this.

    Alex Lawson -

    I did the 90% alcohol and the iOpener. Took a while but finally got the screen off. As others have mentioned, there is lots of adhesive around the top and bottom speaker openings. I ended up reaching in with a small brush and more alcohol to get it. I used a tooth pick to break the final adhesive.

    I also had a set of dental tools and a set of magnifying goggles (I’m a model railroader) which helped greatly.

    John Reagan -

    Like others have said, THIS STEP IS THE MOST DANGEROUS!!! You must be extremely gentle (no real force should be necessary to separate the screen from the glue) with the screen and take your time. (IMO if it takes you less than 30 mins to get the screen loose, your going too hard at it). Two suggestions from my successful battery replacement that I can give, use alcohol instead of heat (seems to work better with this phone) and start with a much thinner plastic tool that is also flexible (I used a metro card from the NYC MTA). This will allow you to get at the tiny gap without using any significant force and then get some alcohol into the gap by dripping it down the thin plastic tool. Honestly, IFIXIT should make a small thin rectangular card to use for this with lines around it for measurements…

    Aleksandr Demidenko -

    The first pry to get the pick inside the edge of the screen needs A LOT OF HEAT and a very firm pull, and just as someone else mentioned, the iOpener did not work well, instead, a regular hair dryer proved more beneficial in applying a controlled amount of heat until its almost too hot to touch. Then, once the pick is inside 99% isopropyl alcohol worked wonders, use a syringe or dropper to apple some at the edge, wait for about 15 seconds and move the pick centimetre by centimetre. Make sure to not insert it more than 2mm at the sides. I took more than an hour just to get the screen off.

    A Sid -

    As an experienced (1) screen remover, I’d recommend that if you don’t plan to change your screen, change your plans. You will be less disappointed that way. I managed to get mine for just over $10 with shipping and test it first (weak Battery). Pixel 3’s (Not 3a or XL) sure look a lot better now. They have removable backs. My pixel 1st gen was a cheap lesson. Looking for another cheap one to try alcohol on.

    Scott Graham -

    Used a hairdryer on medium heat (very warm but not burning hot), suction cup, and applied isopropyl alcohol into crack made when applying pressure. Rinse and repeat until loosened enough to get a pick in. Took many attempts. Don't try to force the pick in, as you could chip the edge of the thin glass of screen this way. The suction cup pressure and weakened adhesive should do the work. Once the pick gets it, you can work a little faster but did the same basic steps minus needing the suction cup anymore, working around the edges. Good lighting is a must to see the crack forming.

    Arthur Kay -

    I have to disagree with folks who said this is the longest step of the whole process...for me...the longest step was having to drive around and find a T4 Torx bit because this kit came with a T2 Torx which proved absolutely USELESS...

    The screen came off very easily with the liberal application of 90% Isopropyl Alcohol. Took around 15min to get the screen off and I hardly had to use picks except for the top and bottom.

    That Torx bit though... F$%^ED ME

    Jens Davidsen -

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    • En los siguientes pasos, usa precaución adicional en ciertas áreas para evitar dañar el teléfono:

    • No insertes la púa más de 6 mm dentro del borde inferior del teléfono. Si la púa contacta la porción doblada del panel OLED, la pantalla puede resultar dañada.

    • Solo haz cortes muy poco profundos en la esquina izquierda superior. Hacer palanca muy profundamente puede dañar la cámara frontal.

    • Insertar una herramienta de apertura de más de 1.5 mm en los lados del dispositivo o de 9 mm en la parte superior e inferior puede dañar permanentemente la pantalla.

    This is inaccurate. The Pixel 2 phone’s back comes in two parts: a plastic main section and a glass back upper section. Only the glass section is required to be removed to replace the camera. Once the glass back is removed, the camera can easily be replaced without removing the motherboard, battery, or any other components. What is picture here looks like the original Google Pixel Phone.

    hunter alden -

    Firstly, I disagree with hunter’s comment above - my Pixel 2 looked identical to this when I had it opened up.

    Secondly, the whole thing about 1.5mm at the sides - literally scared the cr*p out of me when I started this as it’s such a tiny margin - but what this doesn’t say is that you can see these limits on your phone - just turn the screen on and it’s where the display ends - the digitiser starts there and is a couple of mm deep - hence the need to be careful. You can also see it (though less obviously) when you have the screen off - the jet black part at the edge is where the adhesive is - just make sure you don’t push in past there. It’s not like you can’t make very gentle contact with the digitiser when clearing the adhesive - I believe it’s just any kind of real pressure which will render the screen useless.

    Dave Watts -

    I think it would be helpful to highlight the adhesive patches around the microphone/speaker areas and that you do need to project your pick in quite a distance to break this adhesive. I think simply creating a highlighted tracing of all of the adhesive areas would be helpful and pretty simple to do. It is shown to some extent, but in my opinion it could be more clear. In all of the prefaced concerns for digging too deep, I spent extra time and effort carefully prying upward and cracked my screen and OLED rendering my phone useless. Eventually I decided to probe more deeply toward the mic/speaker and broke things loose which allowed me to remove the screen easily.

    Matt Escher -

    Yes your right. I didn't e that and I disassembly the scree from it's digitiser layer. If i would know in advanced the adhesive borders it wouldn't happened.

    Ronen Stolarski -

    I took my time but a few times I slipped in more than I wanted. No harm. The bottom is the more tricky. The adhesive around the bottom opening goes right up against the ribbon cable for the screen. I got the edges unglued with alcohol & iOpener. I then gently pried the screen away and reached in with a small brush and more alcohol. I then used a toothpick to break the last pieces of adhesive.

    John Reagan -

    Besides the adhesive at the edges, there are 2 rectangular shaped adhesive patches at the top (around the speaker) and bottom (around the microphone). These are pretty thick, but can be easily chipped away with the pick. You start to see these as you gently lift the screen upwards with the suction cup and peer inside (use a flashlight). I did not need to use a heat gun or blow dryer. Just the pick and some isopropyl alcohol.

    Hasan Akhter -

    Use isopropyl alcohol with a syringe at the top and bottom speaker to weaken the adhesive, gently pull apart (about 2mm) and use a finer piece of plastic (like a milky file plastic sheet) to cut through the adhesive at the speakers, but still do not take the screen off completely yet! After extensively reading about failed attempts to get the screen off (instances where people damaged the OLED underneath) one thing is in common: few devices have little adhesive underneath the ribbon cable as well, which people failed to notice and while separating the screen and in turn, damaged the OLED because of the pull from the ribbon cable. Thanks to having this information beforehand I found the same issue in my phone after I separated the screen (not completely) from the frame, I used a piece of finer sheet of plastic to cut the adhesive holding the ribbon cable. You will have to be extremely patient and take your time.

    A Sid -

    Word of warning - it is incredibly easy to slip and damage the ribbon cable at the back of the screen (where it folds over on the left in the image)! I accidentally did this removing the screen on my phone and it killed the touch functionality.

    Joshua -

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    • En los siguientes pasos, usa el extremo plano de la púa de apertura, en vez de una esquina, para cortar aquí, Esto ayudará a prevenir que la púa se inserte demasiado profundo.

    • Desliza la púa de apertura a lo largo del lado derecho del teléfono para separar el adhesivo de pantalla.

    • Ten especial cuidado con los biseles laterales, que tienen solo 1,5 mm de profundidad.

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    • Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior derecha a lo largo del borde superior del teléfono.

    Leaving one pick inserted at each corner will help prevent it from sticking back.

    A Sid -

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    • Desliza la púa alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda y a lo largo del borde izquierdo del teléfono.

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    • Desliza la púa alrededor de la esquina inferior izquierda y a lo largo de la parte inferior del teléfono.

    • Ten mucho cuidado de no insertar el pico de apertura más de 9 mm para evitar dañar el panel OLED.

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    • Vuelve a insertar la púa en el borde superior del teléfono y levanta la pantalla.

    • Si la pantalla no se levanta fácilmente, haz un poco más de palanca para separar el resto del adhesivo. El adhesivo cerca del altavoz superior es más grueso que en otros lugares.

    • No intentes separar completamente la pantalla aun, ya que el cable frágil plano aun la conecta con la placa madre del teléfono.

    This for me was by far the hardest step. What this guide fails to say is just how much adhesive you’ll encounter - mine was heaving with the stuff - so I wouldn’t attempt this fix without the rubbing alcohol, and I would be prepared to spend 30 mins on this - the images above make it look like as soon as you can get the pick in and around the whole phone the display will come off - this wasn’t true on mine, and I put a small crack in the top of my screen as I applied a little pressure to lever the top - the edges were ok, but there was so much adhesive at the top and bottom - right down and around the speaker grills - that I used scissors to cut the remaining strands as I managed to lift the screen higher enough! Don’t be shy with the rubbing alcohol, it really helps - and you really need to feel all sides loosen properly before you attempt to lever - but if you’re patient, it’ll be ok.

    Dave Watts -

    agree, way more adhesive at top and bottom than guide implies. go really slow on sides with thin plastic but top and bottom speaker needs a bigger dig

    Erik Sorensen -

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    • Con cuidado coloca la pantalla de forma plana sobre la caja trasera como se muestra, asegurándote de que no se rompa o arrugue el cable plano de la pantalla.

    • Remueve los dos tornillos de 4.00 mm T5 Torx que sujetan el soporte de cable de la pantalla.

    I cannot imagine how much easier this project would be if they provided the bit for this screw and the others of the same size. The torx bit included in my kit is a 2mm - entirely useless here. Only other bits are Philips...also pretty useless...

    Jens Davidsen -

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    • Remueve el soporte del cable de la pantalla.

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    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el conector del cable de la pantalla y sacarlo de su zócalo en la placa madre.

    • Evita tocar la placa madre con la punta de tu spudger. Los componentes rodeando el zocalo son frágiles.

    • Para volver a conectar los conectores a presión como este, con cuidado alinea y presiona en un lado hasta que encaje en su lugar, luego repite en el otro lado. No presiones en el medio. si es conector está mal alineado, las clavijas se pueden doblar y causar daño permanente.

    • Si alguna parte de tu pantalla no responde al tacto luego de la reparación, vuelve a asentar el conector, asegurándote de que se encaje completamente en su lugar y de que no haya polvo u otra obstrucción en el zócalo.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, deténte aquí y reemplaza el adhesivo alrededor de los bordes de la pantalla.

    Wow, I think I damaged my motherboard on this step. It would be helpful if there was a warning in this step to avoid doing that! Now my pixel 2 is reduced to a cool paperweight with a static display.

    Zach Laporte -

    Yep, there’s a small surface mounted component below the connector that is super easy to dislodge from the circuit board. Shown in this YouTube video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BEpgqpI.... Unfortunately, the part is smaller than a grain of sand, so not really practical for the average fixer to put back on the board.

    jlyonsmith -

    I also knocked the tiny chip off of the board while removing the ribbon cable in this step. Use the spudger exactly how it’s shown in the photos.

    John Ware -

    A spudger is the wrong tool to remove the video connector. You cannot see where you are poking with that tool and I wound up dislodging one of the surface mounted devices hidden by the connector and ruining the phone. I also broke a ground path near the corner of the middle frame that is not mentioned in this repair procedure. Watch this YouTube before you begin disassembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKULr67Z...

    jamesdrobinson -

    None of the tools provided in the repair kit seemed slim enough to fit the space required to pry this up. I ended up using a thin / flimsy plastic health care card to get under and pry up. It popped up with enough pressure.

    Arthur Kay -

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

Autor

Adam O'Camb

Miembro Desde 11/04/15

179525 Reputación

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