Reemplaza el módulo del joystick del Nintendo Switch Pro Controller

Escrito Por: Daniel Tagalog
  • Comentarios: 31
Reemplaza el módulo del joystick del Nintendo Switch Pro Controller

Dificultad

Difícil

Pasos

13

Tiempo Requerido

35 - 40 minutos

Introducción

Esta guía te guiará para que puedas reemplazar los módulos de joystick en tu Nintendo Switch Pro Controller. Esta guía de reemplazo requerirá que desueldes y sueldes tus joysticks de reemplazo de vuelta a la placa de circuito. Si necesitas aprender a soldar, consulta esta guía.

  1. iaKRfcPV2HNC5yUK

    • Voltea el mando para que las pegatinas de los modelos estén orientadas hacia el techo.

    • Usa un destornillador JIS #00 para quitar los dos tornillos negros de 8,4 mm que sujetan las manijas, ubicados en los extremos de las manijas.

    Be carefull, these screws are super easy to strip even with the right tools.

    Lukas Eberharter -

    I tried editing these instructions after I had trouble with stripping screws, but it doesn't seem to take. The issue is that these are JIS and not Phillips screws. They are VERY similar looking but a Phillips head screwdriver will strip the screws.

    Isaac Webb -

    I tried using a Philips #00 screwdriver but it didn’t work

    vincent ingrassia -

  2. pFHHOlTyvlQ43DOC
    pFHHOlTyvlQ43DOC
    KCE54LsPyGnuWTkW
    UNYZtREEKVfHallZ

    • Retira con cuidado las tapas de las asas separándolas del cuerpo principal.

  3. 3OnYDcOU1gVR2fEG

    • Utiliza un destornillador JIS n.º 00 para quitar los cuatro tornillos plateados de 6,8 mm que sujetan la cubierta de plástico transparente posterior.

  4. Zb3Ool4Evh63KKVd
    Zb3Ool4Evh63KKVd
    E4qBEgOibCQbXlIJ
    jihxJQfDSqclVJnF

    • Retira con cuidado la cubierta de plástico transparente con la uña.

  5. p4bHAkTpIvuBFIfc

    • Retira la cubierta de plástico transparente.

  6. yUbMYllrTC6sSOGL
    yUbMYllrTC6sSOGL
    6pxWhyQpxoXGbs22
    vEF6WXIGCHUebiZO

    • Retira la batería de iones de litio haciendo palanca con una uña o una herramienta de apertura de plástico en el lado izquierdo.

    • Sólo se necesita una pequeña cantidad de fuerza.

  7. XYxxjvCFZ2fECpgX
    XYxxjvCFZ2fECpgX
    yeUudaKJfpE3qFdu

    • Quita los cinco tornillos de cabeza redonda de 5 mm con el destornillador Phillips #00.

    The ifixit screwdriver I have doesn’t quite reach the top right screw above the battery, so I had to go in at an angle

    Zachary Teeples -

  8. mSxQ4LCSOcJoph5W
    mSxQ4LCSOcJoph5W
    iJGGa3fOeRKOkmJY

    • Saca con cuidado la placa frontal del cuerpo usando una herramienta de apertura de plástico.

    • Separa las cubiertas de plástico separándolas del cuerpo del controlador.

    • Evita usar una fuerza excesiva al tirar de la cubierta para evitar que se dañe el cable plano blanco.

    Perhaps mention that you could use an opening tool instead of your fingernail (like you did in Step 6 above).

    Tasha Lee -

  9. DDQFG1PQXUWdApFU
    DDQFG1PQXUWdApFU
    xZg31tsqUrGqAeCC
    GdTZeIZMOBJRJxAe

    • Utiliza una herramienta de apertura de iFixit para subir la pestaña de bloqueo del conector ZIF.

    • Retira con cuidado el cable plano del conector.

    • Sólo se necesita una pequeña cantidad de fuerza para retirar el cable plano.

    Give a more in-depth explanation of how the ribbon-cable connector words; It was difficult to figure out at first.

    Tasha Lee -

    Lift the black thing up

    Zachary Teeples -

  10. 2jUBrvC2FTyQCcBY
    2jUBrvC2FTyQCcBY
    6LNkDKdcfnitOPYg

    • Con una ligera fuerza, quita las dos tapas del joystick del controlador.

    • Este paso no es esencial pero reducirá el desorden de los siguientes pasos.

  11. vExjkQfnyGTJCyUk
    vExjkQfnyGTJCyUk
    Ymst1hSB3IvILRwX
    tCJddT5G3YOJjAhB

    • Retira el tornillo de cabeza redonda de 5 mm con un destornillador Phillips #00.

    • Usa tu uña para alejar la luz LED de su ranura.

    • Pon a un lado la luz LED con su correspondiente tornillo para volver a montarla.

    You are not removing the 4 LEDs here, they are soldered on the board. You are only removing the light transporting plastic piece.

    Uncle BenZ -

  12. ajh1qJutGmkxv1hV
    ajh1qJutGmkxv1hV
    trsM3gTB2ehPbeFg
    1d6kgUsgHMpKgk12

    • Quita los tres tornillos negros de cabeza redonda de 5 mm con el destornillador Phillips #00.

    • Afloja la placa de circuito del chasis tirando suavemente de la esquina inferior derecha.

    • Levanta la placa de circuito para exponer su parte trasera.

    • Evita usar demasiada fuerza al levantar la placa de circuito para evitar dañar los cables.

  13. pQnLJVPNqq1wdIKm
    pQnLJVPNqq1wdIKm
    WX3eMTLcugswECCG

    • Gira hacia la parte trasera del circuito para tener acceso a las soldaduras.

    • Desoldar todas las uniones soldadas delineadas.

    • Retira el módulo de la palanca de mando de la placa de circuito.

    • Consulta la siguiente guía de soldadura si es necesario: Cómo soldar y desoldar conexiones

    Bonjour,pour dessouder les joysticks, qu’avez-vous utilisez comme outil: de la tresse ou une pompe à dessouder ?

    Par avance merci.

    Patrick

    le hellegouarch -

    J’ai utilisé une pompe, avec de bons résultats

    Brian -

    The most difficult part of this was desoldering. I used no-clean soldering braid and the original solder did not wick up. I heated each solder pad and added just a bit of 60/40 tin/lead solder. After that the braid worked much better and all solder wicked up to the braid allowing me to remove the component.

    paulshopping -

    I used this tutorial to replace one broken joystick after it took s heavy hit but now both of my joysticks drift and when I tried to calibrate them they looked to be moving on there own please help

    Jeroen Zomer -

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

Autor

Daniel Tagalog

Miembro Desde 10/10/19

1254 Reputación

19 comentarios

I managed to replace mine with much difficulty with the soldering but the stick does not seem to turn fully anymore, both with the replacement and the original. For reference, when I go to test it, it no longer registers as reaching the outer circle when pressed all the way down. Similarly when I go to calibrate it, it only reaches up til about the 2nd outer circle, not enough to actually trigger the green arrow. Since this seems to occur on both the replacement and original stick now, I’m guessing this must be some issue that arose while I was struggling with the desoldering process. Anybody have any ideas what might be causing my issue? Have I just damaged it beyond repair?

Tyler -

Without pictures it is impossible to tell, but there is the possibility that you strips the metal connection on the solder point. This is fixable by “bridging” the connection. You will want to find schematics of the wiring for the PCB and then solder the wire over to the next connection.

As a side note, I should mention that I have never tried this on a controller of any sort and that I have only used this method on keyboards with single wire connections. It is possible that the connection in a controller PCB have more going on and that this technique will not work.

Gavin A -

I have the same problem, I buy 2 joystick module from iFixit and the two gave me the same issue, the joystick module don't reach the green arrow.

I can't calibrate because of that issue.

Any ideas?

Piero Grasso -

I have also had the same issue with replacement, only reaches roughly 75%. I contacted ifixit and they sent me a replacement thinking it might be a faulty pot, I installed the new stick and have the same issue. Maybe different years used different resistance.

marcos aguilera -

See my answer a bit down. I think it has to do with the resistance of the module. I had the same issue with the part I received from iFixit, the original part has a resistance of 1150 ohm, but the replacement is 1600 ohm. And I have a different module which is about 500 ohm, and that works just fine.

Peter de Bruine -

Excellent guide. Thank you. Saved me from having to buy a $70 controller.

One comment though, all the screws are actually Phillips #0 except for the grip screws, which are Phillips #00

Brian -

I managed to repair a drifting stick input without any soldering by just replacing the potentiometer in the stick module. You can pry open the housing on the sides, swap it out (make sure it’s the right orientation), and snap it back into place. Potentiometers for Dualshock 4 analog sticks worked for me—apparently these parts are industry standard. Doing this from now on for all my drifty sticks.

Scott Baker -

Hi Scott —

.

So, first off, thanks for the tip! Now, I realize I may be asking a bit much of you here, but, is there any chance you could post/take/fwd any pics of the (sub)procedure you describe? It’d be really helpful to have a reference like that before I tear into a functioning joystick — even if it has a sporadic (though no less infuriating for that) issue.

.

If that’s not feasible, then perhaps you know of and can post a link to a decent guide for doing so on any of the platforms that use these (apparently standard) items?

.

Thanks in advance for any help on this! :oD

anatinus -

I would like to try it your way. Do you have any pictures or something like it. Maybe a video?

André Schenkels -

Do you know how to correctly reassemble the grey piece in the picture?

First thought was something had snapped but after popping off the same piece from the other (working) thumbstick they seem to be identical and neither the part nor the socket seems damaged. I also can’t see any evidence of glue.

The problem is I can’t get the part to clip back into place - it is supposed to sit flush and taught without any movement when the stick is rotated. But no matter how I reapply it I can’t clip it into place.

https://i.imgur.com/mFOQEUy.jpg

Casey -

After doing this. I lost charging capabilities and the capability to even plug it into a PC. Any advice will be beneficial.

Jose Godoi -

I think the grip screws are JIS #00 which would make sense since this is made in Japan.

jorach -

After replacing my analog with one from iFixIt I am only getting about half range on my analog and cannot complete recalibration. I tried 2 analogs from iFixIt with the same issue. I replaced with the original and have full range again

Peter Roach -

I destroyed some of the wiring, but measured connections on the other stick, and used a thin wire to re-wire the broken connection from top to bottom. Works great, even could calibrate it without issues. Unfortunately I broke the thick wires soldering that connects the battery, I’ll need some more delicate equipment to fix that one, until then it works fine when connected to power with cable.

Thraex Aquator -

I have a broken joystick cap, can I just replace it and stop at step 12?

Thank you

Daniel Cardenas -

Is this verified to be working with the replacement part from ifixit? I ordered 2 but don't want to do all the solder work if ppl are only getting 75% range of motion from the non oem parts

ALAN MITCHELL -

For anyone having problems with reduced stick movement, I ran into the same issue but was able to calibrate the stick in the Switch settings by being persistent and repeatedly trying to give the Switch the calibration input it wanted. I sometimes took short breaks in between inputs, not sure if that mattered. The rotation took the longest, maybe two minutes but eventually it completed and now my left stick is as precise as the right stick which I didn't touch. I hope this helps anyone else!

Luna -

I also had the problem with the reduced stick movement, which caused being unable to calibrate the (left) stick. Had my pro controller since 2018 and after about a year it got stick drift. I fixed that myself by replacing the joystick module with a one I bought for an Xbox 360 controller.

That one worked just fine, but after a couple of years the module broke and the stick would stay in one direction. So I bought a new part and replaced it but that gave me the reduced stick movement issue. So I ordered a replacement stick from iFixit but it had the same problem.

I think the issue lies in the amount of resistance the module has. The original (right) module has a resistence of about 1150 ohm, but the iFixit one has a resistance of about 1600 ohm and the Xbox 360 one has about 500 ohm resistance. So I took the resistance parts of the Xbox 360 module and placed them on the original part and soldered that back in place and now it works again.

So now I have 2 pro controllers :D

Peter de Bruine -

Forgot to mention, I also have a Wii U module from the gamepad which had drift and that does have 1600 ohm resistance.

Peter de Bruine -