Reemplazo de Batería para DualShock4 (CUH-ZCT1U)

Escrito Por: Clay Eickemeyer
  • Comentarios: 24
Reemplazo de Batería para DualShock4 (CUH-ZCT1U)

Dificultad

Moderado

Pasos

14

Tiempo Requerido

15 - 30 minutos

Introducción

Sigue esta guía para reemplazar la batería en tu controlador DualShock 4 modelo CUH-ZCT1U.

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    • Verifica el número de modelo en la parte posterior de tu controlador. Esta guía fue escrita utilizando el modelo CUH-ZCT1U. Si tienes otro modelo, el procedimiento de la guía y las piezas de repuesto pueden diferir ligeramente.

    • Si tienes el DualShock 4 de segunda generación, modelo CUH-ZCT2U, usa estas guías.

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    • Si necesitas estabilizar tu control durante la reparación, colócalo sobre una superficie suave como un paño de microfibra.

    • Utiliza un destornillador Phillips para quitar los cuatro tornillos de 6,4 mm de largo que sujetan la carcasa trasera.

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    • Inserta una púa de apertura entre cada una de las esquinas frontales del botón L1 y la carcasa frontal.

    • Cubre el botón para evitar que salga disparado de tu espacio de trabajo.

    • Retira el botón.

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    • Usa tu púa de apertura para hacer palanca y quitar el botón R1, tal como lo hiciste con el botón L1.

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    • Seis clips de plástico aseguran la carcasa trasera a la carcasa delantera. Los siguientes cuatro pasos demuestran cómo liberar estos clips antes de poder abrir el controlador.

    • Inserta tu púa de apertura en un ángulo hacia abajo entre la caja delantera y trasera, a medio camino entre el mango y los botones de acción.

    • Desliza tu selección hacia el mango y levanta para soltar el primer clip.

    • Repite este procedimiento en el otro lado del controlador para liberar el segundo clip.

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    • Dos clips más aseguran la carcasa trasera cerca del puerto de extensión y el conector para auriculares.

    • Inserta tu púa de apertura entre la caja delantera y trasera a cada lado de los puertos.

    • Gira tu púa para soltar esta sección de la caja trasera de la caja delantera.

    • Si la caja trasera se siente atascada, inserta y gira tu púa desde diferentes ángulos.

    • No abras el controlador todavía, ya que aún se mantiene unido por dos clips muy delicados cerca de los gatillos.

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    • Los dos clips finales son muy delicados y deben desconectarse del interior del controlador. Si los rompes, no te preocupes, no afectará a esta reparación ni la funcionalidad de sus controladores.

    • Localiza los clips mirando a través del espacio sobre los botones R2 o L2.

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    • Inserta la punta de un spudger a través del espacio sobre el botón R2 y empuja el clip de retención hacia afuera.

    • Mientras empujas el clip hacia afuera, separa lentamente la carcasa trasera de la carcasa delantera hasta que sientas que se separan.

    • No abras completamente el controlador hasta que cada uno de los clips R2 y L2 se hayan desenganchado.

    • Repite este procedimiento para el clip cerca del botón L2.

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    • Presiona el botón R2 y desliza la carcasa trasera sobre él.

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    • Presiona el botón L2 y desliza la carcasa trasera sobre él.

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    • Voltea la carcasa trasera sobre la parte superior del controlador y colócala, teniendo cuidado de no forzar el cable de interconexión.

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    • Usa pinzas o tus dedos para remover el cable de interconexión jalando su pestaña azul fuera de su socket.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, vuelve a conectar el cable con la lengüeta azul mirando hacia el exterior del controlador.

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    • Usa pinzas o tus dedos para agarrar y desconectar la cabeza del cable de la batería de la placa base.

    • Solo tira de la cabeza del conector, no tires del cable en sí.

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    • Retira la batería

Conclusión

Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

Lleva tus desechos electrónicos a un R2 o e-Stewards reciclador certificado.

¿La reparación no salió según lo planeado? Prueba algunas soluciones de problemas básicos, o solicita ayuda a nuestra comunidad de respuestas.

Autor

Clay Eickemeyer

Miembro Desde 19/09/22

23781 Reputación

24 comentarios

My Dualshock 4 wont turn on after the battery replacement.

Any idea on why this happened?

Alexander -

have you tried to charge it?

Mohamed Aden -

I had a problem with my console but with your guide it is possible to solve this one I think.

Praska -

I found a replacement battery here, you have to mod the tray a little, but it works like a champ and doubles the life.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PS4-Controller-B...

binazriel -

The x button on my controller want working properly so I ordered new rubber mounts. I followed the guide, taking my time to make sure I didn't damage anything.

With the new rubber in place I put everything back together and the controller was working fine but now I've realised it doesn't charge. The battery goes completely dead and switches off. If I then connect it with usb cable it doesn't charge but will turn on the controller for maybe 10 seconds before switching off again.

Anyone any idea what is going on? Thanks.

Kenny -

my controller is not starting today

Harry Patidar -

Did this fix to the letter, controller works now but the light bar does not and I'm unsure if it charges. It shows it's fully charged. Could it be that the micro-usb connection is frapped?

the00brotherhood -

Ok, so it shows it’s fully charged on the PS4 but the light on the controller is out if I’m reading you right. Method I would use… connect the controller to your computer with a wired cable (eliminating the PS4 from the equation).

Check Device Manager in Windows or System Report on a Mac. Does it show your controller?

Yes = USB port on controller is fine, you may have damaged the LED on it during the repair.

No = USB port may be damaged or the cable may be fried.

Your problem doesn’t seem like it would have anything to do with the USB port. If it works but with no lighting, you should be ok unless you use the controller with the PS4 camera.

Brad S -

The battery outlet got ripped off. Can it still be fixed?

nextinline3900 -

Anything can be fixed. But without knowing how severe the damage is it’s hard to say how difficult it would be, although it may involve cannibalizing another controller. At this point it may be cheaper to just purchase a new Dual Shock.

Brad S -

Hi I have two PS 4 controller that wont charged. I had checked with all the possibilities before purchasing two new 2000 Mah replacement batterries. But after replacing the old batteries, I noticed that one of them stopped charging. I thought it had reached the capacity to the full, but to my surprise it did not work, the light is just blinking when I turned it on. I reset the unit but remmained the same !!!

Could it be the charging port got damaged ??? Kindly advice

my other controller is still charging and I have not tested it.

Wushangkehan -

By the way, I plugged into the computer…the device manager did not read the presence of the PS 4 controller , could it be the USB port is damaged ???Kindly advice

Wushangkehan -

I have a simple question…..I replaced my sons PS4 battery with a replacement battery and charging cable……I plugged it all back in as shown…..Now the controller is working……But the battery level on the console/tv is showing it’s charging…..But it does work…….Any idea or reason why the new battery or controller is showing charging still without being connected to the usb? Ty

myfam73 -

Be carefull with 2000mah batteries. I’m talking about V2 Dualshock 4. The original battery : 54mm x 35mm x 8,5 mm and 24g with the hardcase. In this space, you can’t have a 2000mah. Check the size of a true 2000mah 3,7v cell, and you will see a really bigger size. So, these replacement batteries with the same look as the original one, are fake ! If they work, because many are dead and don’t work at all, you will never have 2000mah. I found a true new 3,7v li-ion cell on Ebay, that fits perfectly, but it’s a 1500mah, and without a hardcase. I had to weld the original connector, but it fits perfectly. Not any voltage problem. So, if you need a new battery, don’t bought any hardcase version, and check the dimensions and weight.

KOULLIT -

The blue plastic thingy goes away from the battery. There are letters (maybe symbols) on the ribbon opposite of the blue plastic thingy and they are pointing toward the battery

Ryan A -

so what happens if your controller requires a smaller insert (that is circular and not a square input [which is provided standard in the 2k mah? Same module number but different connectors?

mhoffmanmobile -

I had trouble with analoge, I fixed that but FPC (flat connector) on mainboard broken and I soldered new 12 pin FPC on mainboard again, but in reverse!

then I put charging cable and the dualshock did not turn on , and I sensed that the dualshock is heating up, I remove charging cable as soon as possible.

problem is this : negative and positive putted in reverse.

I don’t kwow what happen if I solder new FPC in right position .

Does it work or somethings going to out of service?

sorry formy poor English language .

regards,

Hamed

hamed1379 -

i struggled with the reassembly; its much easier if you attach the L2 and R2 buttons to the upper half of the controller.

follow these steps:

reattach first the battery, then the cable with the blue pull tab.

then assemble the L2 and R2 buttons as follows: make sure to position the springs in their appropriate slots (especially at the hinge receptecle at the upper shell, align the spring and hinges and push it into the holder.

only then assemble the two body halfes together by first guiding the L1&2 and R1&2 buttons in their correct location. finally slightly bend the long studs into the handle grips and tighten all 4 screws.

wooghee -

I can’t get the battery connector cable out of the socket. I tried to remove it for 15 minutes and it wouldn’t come out.

marcus2159 -

After replacing the battery, the controller can only be used while charging with the cable.

What is the cause of this?

RK-pkmn -

My dualshock 4 is charging but isn't turning on

Derrick Egwalusor -

How can I check which model/version is my controller? (I dont have the back sticker , it fell out a while ago)

Ariel Peteri -

Hi! From looking at the V2 guides, I found a couple distinguishing factors in each controller. The body design near the vibration motors, the shape and color of the motherboard, and the shape of the plastic around the triggers are all key features to compare between models. Use photos from our disassembly guides for each model, and compare the parts of your controller to parts sold on this site or elsewhere to identify your model.

Clay Eickemeyer -

As of March 14, 2023, this guide has been updated! Comments regarding step procedures may no longer be relevant.

Clay Eickemeyer -