Introducción

Prerrequisito para quitar la placa lógica.

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    • Empuja en cada lado del conector del cable del altavoz izquierdo con la punta de un spudger para que camine fuera de su zócalo.

    A step is entirely missing here – removing the right speaker cable connection from the logic board and also removing the right speaker casing (all the pictures below show it already having been removed). You actually don't need to entirely remove the right speaker to get the logic board out but you will need to remove its screws and lift it slightly. And you will need to remove its plug from the motherboard but that's not hard and it looks identical to the left speaker plug/socket.

    biscuit -

    This does need adding to the guide if anyone from ifixit sees this!

    Alan Digby -

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    • Si es necesario, usa un par de pinzas para quitar la cinta que asegura el cable del altavoz izquierdo al cable de datos/energía SATA.

    • Esta cinta solo debe quitarse si estás quitando el altavoz izquierdo.

    Actually i didn't get why should i unstick the tape which gum up left speaker cable to the SATA data/power cable. It's gonna be hard to bond the tape again cause it looses the clue ability. I can definetely claim that there is no need to touch the tape.

    dv1977 -

    I too can say that there was no reason to remove the tape.

    [deleted] -

    Agreed. I completed the repair without removing the tape.

    phil -

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    • Desvía el cable del altavoz derecho tirándolo hacia arriba fuera del clip de retención en la parte trasera de la carcasa posterior.

    • De un modo similar, quita el conjunto de cables de datos/energía SATA fuera del clip de retención.

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    • Usa la punta plana de un spudger para voltear el soporte de retención metálico en el conector del cable de la cámara iSight.

    • Tira el cable de la cámara iSight fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • No uses fuerza excesiva. Este es un conector delicado que se puede dañar con facilidad.

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    • Usa la punta plana de un spudger para desconectar cada uno de los cuatro conectores de la antena de la tarjeta AirPort/Bluetooth.

    • Recuerda las posiciones originales de cada conector cuando reconectes los cables.

    Be careful and tender here, otherwise you risk that the connectors brake

    Andreas -

    Agreed, super easy to bend these and break them.

    jctracey -

    i found it helpful to use the flat end of the spudger under the cable near the connector and gently wiggle the spudger until the cable was disconnected.

    Tim Telcik -

    Agreed, I broke one connector. The airport seems to work anyway. But what to do to fix it? Change the airport card or try to weld it again?

    Paolo Galante -

    I mark each cable tip with a different colored sharpie and then take a Pic. This gives me the order and the angle of orientation in order to reconnect these pesky connectors.

    Macrepair SF -

    OK, so when did you remove the RIGHT speaker? Suddenly it is not in the photos. I s there anything besides it's plug to remove?

    Carl Schultz -

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    • Usa la punta plana de un spudger para quitar el conector del cable del jack de auriculares fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Empuja el cable ligeramente a la derecha para liberar el camino para remover la placa lógica.

    The photo in Step 51 shows the right speaker missing, however there is no step prior for removing the right speaker.

    Hence, refer to this other guide to remove the right speaker *before* Step 51.

    Reemplazo del Altavoz derecho de iMac Intel de 21.5" EMC 2638

    Tim Telcik -

    Its there! Step 28 & 29 is the removal, the left one doesn’t need to be removed.

    Dan -

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    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que aseguran el ducto de ventilación a la carcasa posterior:

    • Dos tornillos T8 de 6.3 mm

    • Dos tornillos T8 de 4.7 mm

    I have the Manta 64 bit kit and the driver that comes with that kit is too short/fat to reach that right 4.7mm T8 screw. I cant fit it past the logic board. i’ll have to find a T8 with a longer shaft or a skinny extension bit

    Nick -

    edit: nvm I didn’t see the smaller TR8 bit but I’m good now!

    Nick -

    A T9 bit fits and grips the screws tight enough to make it easier to work with the deep 4.7mm screw.

    johann beda -

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    • Remueve los cuatro tornillos T10 de 7.2 mm que aseguran la placa lógica a la carcasa posterior.

    So a major problem for me here — my iMac (purchased 2018 ) has a solid circular fastener where the lower left T10 screw should be. So I think I’m dead in the water as far as getting the logic board off to put the new RAM in. I can’t see how people can insert the ram from behind without seeing it or being able to get two fingers to the tabs. I’m so frustrated with the design of this computer.

    jctracey -

    That’s a new one on us! We’d love to see a photo. Any chance it’s a tamper-proof sticker hiding the head? You may also be able to turn it with a set of pliers if you can get a decent grip, just be careful not to bump any board components!

    Sam Goldheart -

    It’s a tamper proof sticker. I started to peel it up, but it was just easier to press the screwdriver bit in.

    as an update, these are now T8 screws

    cwaldrip -

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    • Inclina la parte superior de la placa lógica lejos de la carcasa posterior.

    • Levanta la placa lógica hacia arriba y fuera del iMac.

    • Ten cuidado de no enganchar la placa en cualquiera de los postes de tornillo de la carcasa posterior.

    • Los puertos de E/S en la parte inferior de la placa lógica serán un desafío mayor. Se recomienda tirar con cuidado para evitar cualquier daño.

    If you have a helper (or if you're very coordinated and careful), you can very likely lift up the logic board far enough to replace both RAM modules without pulling the logic board all the way out. Just be careful what you touch, of course.

    phil -

    This is the trickiest part of the whole operation. It took me a solid half hour to get the logic board out. I’m sure it would be easier a second time, because there’s not many delicate components around the USB/Internet sockets, so you can be a little more assertive with it than I felt comfortable doing.

    David Thompson -

    i found the logic board kept snagging on the USB connectors poking through the exterior case. Wiggle the logic gently to extract..

    Tim Telcik -

    There are two connections underneath, where the HDD cables plug in. This should be pointed out; they pulled loose when I removed the logic board and I didn’t notice until I had most of it put back together.

    lkollar -

    Take out the two screws that hold down the right speaker, and push it up a little, before removing the logic board. It makes things a lot easier.

    Also: there’s a cable on the right side of the logic board that isn’t called out. Nor are the two HDD cables that plug into the underside of the logic board.

    lkollar -

    Photo shows right speaker removed, but this is not in the steps. I loosened it and disconnected its cable. Otherwise, the logic board wasn’t going to come out safely.

    ken -

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    • Cuando estés instalando la placa lógica, ten cuidado de alinear los puertos de E/S exteriores correctamente. La placa lógica puede quedar torcida incluso cuanto está asegurada con todos sus tornillos.

    • Usa una unidad Flash USB y/o un cable Ethernet para asegurarte que la placa lógica está correctamente ubicada cuando la atornillas.

Conclusión

Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

Sam Goldheart

Miembro Desde 19/10/12

457951 Reputación

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