Reemplazo de ensamblaje de pantalla del Samsung Galaxy S4

Escrito Por: Sam Goldheart
  • Comentarios: 75
Reemplazo de ensamblaje de pantalla del Samsung Galaxy S4

Dificultad

Moderado

Pasos

28

Tiempo Requerido

1 - 3 horas

Introducción

Usa esta guía para reemplazar el ensamblaje de pantalla en tu Samsung Galaxy S4.

  1. rjhlmKL4roqDcNeD
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    • Haz palanca con una herramienta de apertura de plástico o tu uña en la ranura a la izquierda de la cámara trasera cerca del botón del encendido.

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    • Levanta la caja trasera por la esquina más cerca de la ranura y remuévelo del teléfono.

    Where is the divot? Please let me know that

    James -

    I purchased a blue plastic opening tool(AKA: Spudge) like the one used in the above Step 1 rear cover pic and found the divot and was able to take off the rear cover as per the “Step 2 “ instructions.

    Terry Crawford, Jr. -

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    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger, o tu uña para presionar la tarjeta microSD un poco más en su ranura hasta que escuches un clic.

    • Luego del clic, libera la tarjeta y saldrá de su ranura.

    • Remueve la tarjeta microSD.

    • Para volver a ensamblar, empuja la tarjeta microSD en la ranura hasta que encaje en su lugar.

    I was able to remove the MicroSD Card as per the Step 3 MicroSD instructions with no problems.

    Terry Crawford, Jr. -

  4. crygJXPQtUYDKNlg
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    • Inserta una herramienta de apertura de plástico o un dedo en la muesca del compartimiento de la batería y levanta la batería.

    • Remueve la batería de tu teléfono.

    it worked for me

    John Donovan -

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    • Usa esta herramienta de apertura de plástico o tu uña para presionar la tarjeta SIM en su ranura hasta que escuches un clic.

    • Luego del clic, libera la tarjeta y saldrá de su ranura.

    • Remueve la tarjeta SIM.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, empuja la tarjeta SIM en la ranura hasta que encaje en su lugar.

    Looks easy but doesn't work. No one has a plastic opening tool. Using fingernail, you can press SIM card into slot but it does not pop out so you can remove it.

    Laurie McWherter -

    I agree with the comment above

    I also don't have a plastic tool and my finger nail won't pop the card out.

    Grethe Montano. September 22

    Grethe Montano -

  6. EDtlEYuMDEYXrblv

    • Remueve los nueve tornillos Phillips #00 de 4.00 mm que sujetan el marco medio al ensamblaje de pantalla.

    How much it will cost to replace a midframe

    kannan -

    How much cost will be on replace a midframe

    Hiren pedhadiya -

    I'm seeing midframes available on Ebay for around $10.

    Alex -

    I purchased a 1.5x40mm Phillips screw driver and was able to remove all 9 40mm screws from the midframe as per the Step 6 Midframe instructions.

    Terry Crawford, Jr. -

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    • El marco medio está asegurado al ensamblaje de la pantalla mediante varios clips de plástico detrás del bisel cromado del marco medio. Los siguientes pasos te guiarán a través de la separación de los clips para liberar el marco medio.

    • Comenzando en el botón de volumen del teléfono, inserta la herramienta de apertura de plástico entre el bisel cromado alrededor del cristal de la pantalla y la pieza de borde cromada más grande. Busca la unión entre los dos.

    • Desliza la herramienta de apertura a lo largo de la unión separando los clips de plástico a medida que avanza.

    • Ten mucho cuidado al hacer palanca, y hazlo lo suficiente para separar los clips de plástico; hay varios puntos finos en el bisel del marco medio que pueden agrietarse si los doblas demasiado.

    I used same tool as in the photo and i broke the display. I think you should use a very thin plastic tool, such as a credit card but even more thin and flexible.

    nicosoranno4gxo -

    I purchased a blue plastic opening tool(AKA: Spudger) and was able to remove the midframe from the display assembly as per the Step 7. I had to hold the cell phone firmly in my left hand while I gently forced the spudger between the chrome bezel and the midframe with my right hand and heard plastics clips separate and saw the midframe start to separate from the display assembly. Don’t be afraid to get that spudger in and just gently go down the side of the phone and you will hear the plastics clips detach and the midframe to separate more and more until you are able to separate them 100%. I started at the volume button side of the phone in Step 7 and ended at the power button side in Step 9.

    Terry Crawford, Jr. -

    This blue Case Opening tool has a less rigid edge that is kinder to trim than the hard black Spudger shown in later steps. I was glad to have the right tool on hand at this step. Use it as a wedge and slide it along the gap.

    Tom Huber -

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    • Continúa haciendo palanca alrededor de la esquina del teléfono.

    • Desliza la herramienta de apertura a lo largo de la línea entre el marco central y la pantalla a lo largo de la parte inferior del dispositivo, liberando más clips de plástico.

    I purchased a blue plastic opening tool(AKA: Spudger) and was able to remove the midframe from the display assembly as per the Step 7. I had to hold the cell phone firmly in my left hand while I gently forced the spudger between the chrome bezel and the midframe with my right hand and heard plastics clips separate and saw the midframe start to separate from the display assembly. Don’t be afraid to get that spudger in and just gently go down the side of the phone and you will hear the plastics clips detach and the midframe to separate more and more until you are able to separate them 100%. I started at the volume button side of the phone in Step 7 and ended at the power button side in Step 9.

    Terry Crawford, Jr. -

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    • Nuevamente, haz palanca alrededor de la esquina hacia el lado del botón de encendido.

    • Desliza la herramienta de la apertura a lo largo de la línea.

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    • Continúa deslizando la herramienta de apertura alrededor de la parte superior del teléfono, liberando el último de los clips y liberando el medio marco del ensamblaje de la pantalla.

    • En este punto, es posible que desees deslizar la herramienta de apertura de plástico a lo largo de todo el perímetro del dispositivo nuevamente, para asegurarte de que hayas soltado todos los clips de plástico.

    On my phone, there was another clip holding the white midframe to the battery compartment, in the middle of the top edge of the battery compartment, near the battery contacts. If you don't release that before removing the midframe, it is easy to break.

    josephoswald -

    I purchased a blue plastic opening tool(AKA: Spudger) and was able to remove the midframe from the display assembly as per the Step 7. I had to hold the cell phone firmly in my left hand while I gently forced the spudger between the chrome bezel and the midframe with my right hand and heard plastics clips separate and saw the midframe start to separate from the display assembly. Don’t be afraid to get that spudger in and just gently go down the side of the phone and you will hear the plastics clips detach and the midframe to separate more and more until you are able to separate them 100%. I started at the volume button side of the phone in Step 7 and ended at the power button side in Step 9. In Step 10 just make sure all the plastic clips are separated from the midframe and the display assembly so you can pull them apart 100% without breaking them.

    Terry Crawford, Jr. -

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    • Remueve el marco medio del ensamblaje de pantalla.

    here i leave them a video i made doing the work

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85pOvI6O...

    enjoy

    Gabriel Barrandeguy -

    My Sprint S4 was slightly different then the one pictured above but I just completed this repair in under 10 minutes.. It would have been slightly quicker but fooling around with those little screws can be irritating if you have big hands.

    Michael Willis -

    Just did this on my S4. Instructions were extremely helpful, but I had to remove a screw (step 10.5?) to remove the upper display assembly bracket. Other than that, flawless! Thanks!

    JackieME -

    The 3rd image of the 11th step shows that when the midframe is removed, some parts come along with it (at the bottom part of it). What are these parts? should they be removed too and placed in the new midframe? Are they easy to remove?

    Chris -

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    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el conector de la placa USB.

    • Desconectar el conector del cable de la cámara frontal .

    • Desconectar el ensamblaje del conector del cable del altavoz auricular.

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    • Desconecta el conector del cable del ensamblaje de la toma de auriculares.

    • Desconecta el conector del cable de la pantalla/el digitalizador.

    • Desconecta el conector del cable de la antena.

    My model had an antenna connection next to the usb board connector in addition to the antenna connection near the display cable connector.

    Drew -

    That's point a, on the daughter board (where the USB is located is point b. You must connect it from a to b

    djweijers1997 -

    I could not get the screen connector to fit on with the motherboard assembly in place. I had to remove the motherboard assembly, attach the screen connector, and then carefully replace the motherboard assembly, with the screen connector still attached..

    Tom4G -

    Same as Tom4G above. When trying to connect the screen connector, it would not give me that nice clear snap indicating a positive connection. The phone powered up with no screen. So, I disconnected the other connectors again, lifted the motherboard out and connected the screen connector by pinching it with finger and thumb from both sides of the motherboard, this time getting a nice snap when it engaged.

    speedrzr -

  14. rj6NCBPKbIQYnvFu

    • Remueve el único tornillo de 2.4 mm Phillips #00 del ensamblaje de la placa madre.

    As Sam Lionheart states at the end of this guide, some of these phones have an additional antenna on the opposite side of the phone. Be sure to detach it before removing the motherboard.

    mcr4u2 -

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    • Con cuidado remueve la placa madre.

    • Sostén la placa madre de los bordes para prevenir daño por descarga electroestática.

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    • Remueve el único tornillo Phillips #00 de 2.4 mm que sujeta el ensamblaje de toma de auriculares al ensamblaje de pantalla.

    My assembly had a silver conductive tape shield over the array of components shown in the middle of this photo. I peeled the old one off and attached it in the same location on my new digitizer.

    David -

  17. Ny4onYB2SMAm2ncs

    • Remueve el ensamblaje de la toma de auriculares.

    The headphone jack is surrounded by rubber. It's kind of squeezed in there. You can pry on it to get it out.

    jonathan -

    I had a quick question there's a little white rubber circular gasket piece that the headphone jack covers up

    What's that piece called?

    damian lasher -

    The small rectangular milky-white silicon gasket appears to be a diffuser for ambient light sensor.  I removed it with a small screwdriver, and replaced it in the same location in my new screen assembly.

    Nicholas Crisp -

    The small rectangular milky-white silicon gasket appears to be a diffuser for an ambient light sensor.  I prised it out of the old assembly and placed it in the new screen assembly.  I also started transferring the components as they were removed from the old screen, so the head-phone jack went straight into the new at this point.  I may regret that later…

    Nicholas Crisp -

    The angle of the picture here makes it appear like the head phone jack needs to be slid out of the top of the phone. This is impossible due to small bits of plastic holding it in at the top. If you're having trouble, the headphone jack is in fact supposed to lift straight up out of the phone.

    sigoshi -

    Additionally, there might be a small amount of adhesive holding the headphone jack to the board (there was some in my device). Apply a bit of heat to loosen it up, if needed.

    Mikolaj Banasik -

    it is easy to pop off, if you apply pressure to the right point. Using a plastic pair of tweezers or a pry tool, push at the lower right corner and gradually increase the pressure, if you apply enough pressure it will just pop right off.

    Wissmiller Services -

  18. klv5gjhY1h2uodKm
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    • Si están presentes, remueve el tornillo de 2.4 mm Phillips #00 que sujeta el soporte superior de ensamblaje de pantalla

    • Remueve el soporte superior del ensamblaje de pantalla de la pantalla.

    I’ve found that a pretty easy way of popping the bracket off is to slide a thin end of the spudger from the left, then delicately push in - it just popped off easily in my case.

    Mikolaj Banasik -

    Be careful with this part! It is very springy. I was gently trying to lift it and it shot across the room!

    NikonErik -

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    • Remueve la cámara frontal del ensamblaje de pantalla.

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    • Remueve el ensamblaje del altavoz auricular del ensamblaje de pantalla.

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    • Inserta la punta de un spudger debajo del vibrador para liberarlo del adhesivo que lo sujeta al ensamblaje de la pantalla.

    • Ten cuidado de no remover inmediatamente el vibrador , ya que el cable está también adherido al la parte trasera del ensamblaje de pantalla.

    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el cable del vibrador del ensamblaje de la pantalla.

    • El calor funciona como un persuasor aquí para ablandar el adhesivo. La aplicación liberal de calor desde una pistola de calor ablandará el adhesivo. Si haces palanca con cuidado, puedes salvar y reutilizar el adhesivo.

    also you can really feel free to dig the motor out as the housing will be discarded.

    Pavlina G -

    I would suggest getting the cable loose first as the vibrator comes out suddenly and you could break off the cable if it is still glued down.

    ken -

    bro i cant get it out with a spupger and a i dont have a heat gun/hair dryer any more tips

    Libety Cunty -

  22. XQeI5ftH4k54xAUj

    • Remueve el vibrador de la parte trasera del ensamblaje de pantalla.

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    • Con cuidado inserta la punta de un spudger entre el puerto USB y el soporte del puerte USB para levantar un lado del soporte de su poste.

    Use a tiny screwdriver to pry up next to the left post of the USB port bracket instead of the spudger and it will pop right off. I tried the spudger but it didn't work for me.

    computeripodrepair -

  24. YE3wKckB5iepTDVd

    • Remueve el soporte del puerto USB del puerto USB.

    • El soporte es ligeramente elástico y debe colocarse de nuevo en su sitio en los dos postes de tornillos durante el reensamblaje.

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    • Desconecta el cable del botón blando del cable de la placa USB. Ten mucho cuidado,una vez que hayas removido el cable, con cuidado despégalo de la placa USB.

    • Desconecta el cable del conector de la antena de la placa USB.

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    • La placa USB está sujeta al ensamblaje de pantalla con un ligero adhesivo.

    • Con cuidado inserta el extremo plano de un spudger por debajo de la placa USB para liberarla del adhesivo en su lugar.

    • Hazlo lentamente y con cuidado de no doblar la placa.

    This one was a bit tricky. The board was very tight to the frame so I ended up having to remove the board from the opposite side slowly until I got to the front, then used the tool to remove it.

    mitch -

    I also had the most trouble with this part -- it's very well-glued to the assembly, so I used my hair dryer to loosen it somewhat and pried it up with tweezers. This seems to be the part most likely to crack (because it's long and glued down the entire length of the board), so I recommend patience and a little heat to help things along.

    Andrew Richards -

    I’ve found that applying the heat loosens up the adhesive, making it easier to remove the board.

    You can either use a heat gun on lowest setting, or a hair dryer, to apply heat to the board area, then start slowly from the left side. Adhesive appears to be applied as a strip of materials, so with enough care, you can keep it in place and for keeping the USB board in place after reassembly.

    Mikolaj Banasik -

    Double-sided tape was used in the i9500 version I used. Be very slow. Heat from a hair dryer helped.

    Chris Chaulk -

    Working on Verizon SCH-i545, if you’ll follow the instructions, they really do help. The board will bend ever so slightly because your spudger is crafted at an angle by default. The key is to roll it out, and literally keep the spudger as close to the frame as possible. I removed mine with no heat application. I’ll update this once the repair is completed to let you know how the overall process was and what galaxy diags say once the phone is back together. #StrivelinkTech

    Sturgis Baxter -

    Repair went well, hardware working as desired. Used a B stock part to replace the screen since it’s a beater phone repair anyway. Board works fine, went back in smoothly with no heat applied.

    Sturgis Baxter -

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    • Remueve la placa USB del ensamblaje de pantalla.

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    • Despega y remueva el cable del conector de antena de su canal en la parte trasero del ensamblaje de pantalla.

    • Otros modelos podrían tener un cable de antena adicional en el lado opuesto del teléfono. Remueve esta antena del ensamblaje de pantalla también.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, será útil volver a instalar primero la placa USB y reconectar el cable de conector de la antena antes de enrutarlo de nuevo en su canal.

    When did the display get replaced? Is the last piece trash and the phone rebuilt on the new one?

    Mark Peterson -

    Yep, the component leftover after removing the antenna interconnect cable is the display assembly. The digitizer, LCD and display frame are a glued together unit, replacing the entire assembly is much safer than trying to delaminate the display. The next step would indeed be to rebuild the phone on top of the new display assembly.

    Sam Goldheart -

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

Autor

Sam Goldheart

Miembro Desde 19/10/12

457951 Reputación

28 comentarios

HELP! step 28 just ends how do I insert the new one, how do I resemble the parts that used adhesives to stick?

Tom -

Nearly all the guides end like this, you just need to work backwards through the steps using the new hardware.

Dave Davidson -

Just work backwards like Nick stated. I usually reverse assemble the parts I take off so I know the order in which I need to put them back in.

Sturgis Baxter -

Just run it along its track. Use a plastic spudger to push it down. Use 3m double sided adhesive tape to re-attach parts that require adhesive.

Fausto Lebron -

What is the difference between an AT&T digitizer and a Verizon digitizer? How interchangeable are they?

Martin -

I believe the digitizer is the same but if you buy the digitizer with assembly (frame) there is a difference between the models. Here are the model numbers for all the versions. I545 (Verizon) , I337 (AT&T), L720 (Sprint), M919 (T-Mobile), I9500 (International), i9505 (International)

Fausto Lebron -

The "display assembly" I purchased was very simple: glass and LCD and a small board with cable and that's it. It didn't have all this beefy mid frame stuff so I had to reuse my old one. Check to see which part you purchased before going through unnecessary disassembly steps like I did.

Logan Kennedy -

This guide was perfect, phone works like new again. Thank you for putting this together.

Brant -

When you get to Step 7, it is much safer (for the screen) to begin to separate the mid frame from the seam inside the battery compartment. Place the phone face down on a clean sheet of paper, put your fingernail in the seam and pull it apart with spudger. Much less likely to do any damage to the screen.

Gary McIntosh -

Help, i replaced the display assembly, but the touchscreen isn't working. any idea of what i've done wrong? or did maybe damaged something?

lilytjuhh -

This just happened to me too, I think I might have pulled the digitizer by mistake or took off the sticker on the back which might have messed up the ribbon cables, did you fix it yet? My touch screen isn't working now also.

justin -

Absolutely 100% perfect. Everything works and I have my Galaxy S4 back. Couldn't be happier!!!

macmcknight -

Thanks SOO MUCH! This was awesome. Just pay close attention to the pictures as you go, take your time, and save yourself about $150 vs having a shop do it...

Further advice: DO NOT use anything metal when prying apart the frame in the beginning... The cell phone tool kits are worth it.

jrupertnh -

Superb guide, got me there successfully from start to finish ... Thank you

Kevin -

I have two phones with the same problem. After reassembly, just before I install the midframe, I check the phone with the sim card and it works perfect. When I install the midframe I get intermittent on one phone and continuous and the other 'sim card not recognized restart the phone'. I get this, as I've said, only when the midframe is re-installed.

JustinTimeToo -

Perfect! Great guide, all functions a go.

Don Joseph -

I have a Verizon Samsung Galaxy S4, and during disassembly I noticed that it contains two antennas - one in the position as shown in this guide and one on the exact opposite side (colored light red). It too must be disconnected in the same fashion as the antenna in this guide. Removal and installation of both antennas was simple. As the guide suggests, I would recommend installing USB board and motherboard back in place prior to reinstall and routing of antenna wires. Excellent guide. Fixed my broken S4!

coastguard26 -

thank you thank you thank you!!!! i didn't have any of the tools but used my thumb nails!

twiskinmcmillan -

Easy. Thanks for sharing this tutorial.

Philippe RIPAUX -

Hi i want s4 display no wornty i want

pratik wadhwa -

This was AWESOME! I was able to fix my phone. It took me about 2 hours as I kept stopping for breaks.

Pavlina G -

I did it, and it wasn't too hard.

Here are some tips:

- when removing the midframe, begin from the side with the volume buttons like mentioned here

- the USB board can be bent a bit, it will probably still work fine if it did not crack when you removed it.

- The GT-i9515 also uses the GT-i9505 screen

- make sure that all ribbon cables are really fully attached, apply a bit of pressure

- when reattaching the midframe, make sure to clip in the power button side first, you will have a VERY hard time clipping it on there last. I had to remove the midframe again and start at that side

Schule04 -

Great guide, helped me out alot

nev tevi -

Thanks - Works well

Rainer Nickel -

Good walk through.

Moïse Chadwick -

Thanks for the great, easy instructions iFixit!!!

noahthomashall -

Great guide, I just did it now for fun, I broke the S4 display in January 2019 and wanted to try to replace the screen. So today I managed it thanks to this guide. The USB board was hard to remove and I bent it like a potato chip, but still works fine. I put the I9505 display part on I9506 and it still works. The plastic mid-frame was super fragile, the places for screws crack easily (even before reassembly) and also the edge broke completely on one place during my re-assembly.

Lukáš Z -