Reemplazo de la Carcasa Superior del MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009

Paso 1

Retira los siguientes 10 tornillos que sujetan la tapa inferior del MacBook Pro 13 "Unibody:
Siete tornillos Phillips de 3 mm.
Tres tornillos Phillips de 13,5 mm.

Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

mastover -

I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

adlerpe -

That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

joyitsjennie - 12/08/15

Great idea and one I use often

Thomas Overstreet - 30/08/15

Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

Laura Sharkey - 14/08/16

I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

valentinedhdh - 07/04/15

I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)

Cary B - 09/07/22

Paso 2

Levanta ligeramente la tapa inferior y empuja hacia la parte posterior para liberarlo de las pestañas que lo sujetan

In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

Mike - 12/09/17

Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.

Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!

Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.

Am I allowed to cry?

Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.

IFIXIT - IDIGIT!

kath myers - 26/02/22

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

That was a brilliant read.

Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.

Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.

:)

Cary B -

Paso 3

Por razones de precaución, le recomendamos que desconecte el conector de la batería de la placa lógica para evitar cualquier descarga eléctrica.
Utilice el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería hacia arriba fuera de su toma en la placa lógica.

Cita de gansodesoya:

why is step 3 necessary?

Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

MrKane -

How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

Horace Chung -

yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

maccentric -

This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

Jeff Diamond - 16/04/17

Paso 4

Utilizar un spudger para sacar el conector del ventilador de su asiento, y hacia arriba de la placa lógica.
Es útil girar el spudger axialmente desde debajo de los cables del ventilador para liberar el conector.
El zócalo del ventilador y el conector del ventilador se pueden ver en la segunda y tercera imágenes. Tenga cuidado de no romper la toma de plástico del ventilador de la placa lógica mientras utiliza su spudger para levantar el conector del ventilador hacia arriba y fuera de su zócalo.
El diseño de la placa lógica que se muestra en la segunda imagen puede parecer ligeramente diferente de su máquina, pero la toma del ventilador es la misma.

I just soldered it back on. . . I tried to clean the pads with braid first, but it didn't do much so I don't think that's necessary. I first supper-glued it in place with the pins on the pads and then I put a tiny dab of solder on each pin/pad. Plugged in the fan and i works!

Ron Hudson - 10/03/15

Just the answer I was looking for Ron! Awesome work buddy!

lucasjmenzie - 06/02/16

i recommend not to use the spudger. you damage more than by unpluggin the plug by hand. just simply pull the cable close to the plug of the old fan softly upwards out. the plug than comes easily out. put the new fan in and push the new plug by hand in. it is much easier than using a spudger. i also started with a spudger but nearly broke the plug out, so i watched a youtube tutorial and learned about it…

andre - 25/09/20

Paso 5

Retire los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el ventilador a la carcasa superior:
Un Phillips de 6.5 mm.
Un Phillips de 5.5 mm.
Un Phillips de 4.5 mm.

Paso 6

Levante el ventilador de la caja superior.

Paso 7

Toma la lengüeta de plástico asegurada al candado del cable de datos de la pantalla y gírala hacia el lado de entrada de CC de la computadora.
Saca el conector del cable de datos de la pantalla directamente de su zócalo, hacia el lado de entrada de CC de la computadora.

Paso 8

Retira los dos tornillos siguientes que sujetan el soporte del cable de datos de la pantalla a la carcasa superior:
Una Phillips de 7 mm.
Una Phillips de 5 mm.
Levanta el soporte del cable de datos de la pantalla para sacarlo de la carcasa superior.

Mine are Torx and got an extra clamp for the cable, just above the left screw

Martin -

If you only want to replace the DC-in board, stop here and GOTO 17 (and DO NOT 4 and 6).

When the Logic board is loose, lift it up on the Harddrive end and shift slightly towards the HD, so that the USB connectors at the outside come free from under the case rim and the board can be lifted up a bit. Then there´s enough room to move the DC in board, pull the cable out with a pair of tweezers, wriggle it out from under the microphone cable and wriggle the new connector in. It can be pushed into the socket with tweezers or a small screwdriver. This worked perfect for me.

Be careful not to bend the logic board, but otherwise I think there´s much less risk of messing anything up with all the connectors and bits and pieces that need to be loosened and fastened.

Mike - 27/10/14

Paso 9

Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el subwoofer y el conector del altavoz derecho de la placa lógica.

Paso 10

En este paso desconectará el cable de la cámara. La mayoría de las máquinas tendrán un pequeño retenedor de plástico autoadhesivo pegado a la placa lógica para mantener el conector en su lugar. Antes de desconectar el cable, asegúrese de que este retenedor esté fuera del camino.
Tire del conector del cable de la cámara hacia la unidad óptica para desconectarlo de la placa lógica.
Este zócalo es de metal y se dobla fácilmente. Asegúrese de alinear el conector con su zócalo en la placa lógica antes de acoplar las dos piezas.

There is a small piece just below this connector which is just an adhesive block to keep the connector from coming out. It is easiest to peel it up first with a fingernail or spudger then remove the cable. Likewise reinsert the cable before reapplying the adhesive safety stop.

Justin Jett -

I couldn't reconnect this cable correctly, so my camera is not working anymore.

It doesn't matter to me, I didn't used the camera that often...

But the Ambient Light Sensor uses the camera to control keyboard lighting, so I wasn't able to see my keyboard in the dark anymore... :(

If you have the same problem, after a couple of google hits I've found this app: https://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/22151/...

Problem solved! YAY!

PS: be careful because WIFI passes through this cable as well!!!!

simbass -

Look at the photo intently. The connector is inserting not in parallel, but at a slight angle. The bottom corner of the connector is slightly ahead. It is important! Singular metod to insert it.

Vladimir - 24/01/18

Paso 11

Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar la unidad óptica, el disco duro y los conectores del cable del trackpad de la placa lógica.

Paso 12

Usa la uña o la punta de un spudger para levantar la solapa de retención del cable en el zócalo ZIF para el cable plano del teclado.
Usa tu spudger para deslizar el cable plano del teclado fuera de su zócalo.

When reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable, make sure you push it in all the way (two plastic tools are helpful - one to push it down flat, the other to coax it all the way in). For 3 days after replacing a top case, my MacBook Pro 13" wouldn't start up. I thought the main logic board was fried too. However, reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable again, this time perhaps 1mm farther in, and it started up again! I did the same for the "keyboard backlight ribbon cable" (i.e. reinserted it just to make sure). Really not sure which completed the circuit so is would start, but I suspect the keyboard ribbon cable.

amiller770 -

Cita de amiller770:

When reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable, make sure you push it in all the way (two plastic tools are helpful - one to push it down flat, the other to coax it all the way in).

I usually use a piece of sticky transparent office tape and stick it over the flat cable a bit further away from the mating part then pull on it. There is no better way to force the flat cable into a stiff connector without damaging the fragile cable.

Leo Bodnar -

As others have stated, if the keyboard ribbon cable isn't fully inserted the MBP will not power on. Leo Bodnar's recommendation to use a piece of transparent office tape did the trick for me. Many thanks Leo!

Matthew Rankin -

Inserting the ribbon cable for the keyboard was really difficult, but i was able to get it in using a piece of tape and pulling it up, just like the tape on the keyboard backlight.

Kelly Legner -

Using a piece of tape is sheer genius Kelly. My mom once said her definition of genius was an idea that, when you hear it, you say to yourself, “now why didn’t I think of that?” But you never would have thought of it. Brava (or bravo) Kelly!

JonnyLine -

Paso 13

Despega la pequeña tira de cinta negra del conector del cable plano de la retroiluminación del teclado.

Paso 14

Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar la solapa de retención del cable en el zócalo ZIF para el cable plano de la retroiluminación del teclado.
Usa tu spudger para deslizar el cable plano de luz de fondo del teclado fuera de su zócalo.

Paso 15

Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector del cable del indicador de batería de la placa lógica.

Paso 16

Usa la punta de un spudger para quitar el micrófono del adhesivo que lo une a la carcasa superior.

Paso 17

Retira los siguientes tornillos:
Cinco Phillips de 3,1 mm.
Dos Phillips de 3,9 mm.
Dos Phillips de 7 mm de la placa de entrada de CC.

Paso 18

Retira los siguientes tornillos de tres puntas que sujetan la batería a la carcasa superior:
Un tornillo de tres puntas de 5,5 mm.
Un tornillo de tres puntas de 13,5 mm.
Saca la batería de la carcasa superior.

Paso 19

Levanta la placa lógica desde su borde izquierdo y levántala hasta que los puertos despejen el costado de la carcasa superior.
Separa la placa lógica del costado de la carcasa superior y retírala, teniendo cuidado con la placa de entrada de CC que puede quedar atrapada.
Ten cuidado de no arrancar el frágil conector del conjunto del micrófono.

When putting the logic board back in place, it's easier to angle the mic down in it's place as you are placing the board in, rather than after the board is seated.

amiller770 -

Paso 20

Retira los dos tornillos Phillips que sujetan el soporte del disco duro a la carcasa superior.
Los tornillos permanecen cautivos al soporte.
Levanta el soporte de retención de la carcasa superior.

Paso 21

Levanta el disco duro desde su borde libre y sácalo del chasis, cuidando el cable que lo conecta a la computadora.

Paso 22

Desconecta el disco duro tirando del conector del cable del disco duro para sacarlo de la unidad.

Paso 23

Retira los siguientes cuatro tornillos que sujetan el disco duro y el cable del sensor de infrarrojos a la carcasa superior:
Dos tornillos Phillips de 1,5 mm.
Dos tornillos Phillips de 4 mm.
Desliza el disco duro y el soporte del sensor de infrarrojos para alejarlos del borde de la carcasa superior.
Retira con cuidado el disco duro y el cable del sensor de infrarrojos de la carcasa superior.

Paso 24

Retira los dos tornillos Phillips que sujetan el subwoofer a la carcasa superior.
El más largo (8,2 mm) de los dos tornillos está a la derecha. El más corto (5 mm) de los dos tornillos está a la izquierda.
El subwoofer todavía está conectado al altavoz derecho, así que no lo quites por completo todavía.
Levanta el subwoofer de la unidad óptica y colócalo sobre la computadora.

Paso 25

Retira los dos tornillos Phillips de 9,2 mm que sujetan el soporte del cable de la cámara a la carcasa superior.
El tornillo más interno puede permanecer cautivo en el cable de la cámara.
Si tienes la versión de mediados de 2010, el soporte del cable de su cámara puede verse ligeramente diferente, pero el procedimiento es el mismo.
Levanta el soporte del cable de la cámara para sacarlo de la carcasa superior.

Paso 26

Retira los tres tornillos Phillips de 2,5 mm que sujetan la unidad óptica a la carcasa superior.
Levanta la unidad óptica desde su borde derecho y extráela de la computadora.

Paso 27

Retira el pequeño trozo de cinta negra que cubre el cable del altavoz derecho.
Ten cuidado, ya que el cable plano del botón de encendido está directamente debajo de este trozo de cinta.

Paso 28

Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el altavoz derecho del adhesivo que lo sujeta a la carcasa superior.

Paso 29

Levanta el conjunto de subwoofer y altavoz derecho para sacarlo de la caja superior.

Paso 30

Retira los dos tornillos Torx exteriores de 6 mm que sujetan cada lado del soporte de la pantalla a la carcasa superior (4 tornillos en total).
Al volver a ensamblar, retira los tornillos Torx internos de 6 mm aproximadamente un cuarto de vuelta y alinea suavemente la pantalla y la carcasa superior antes de insertar los tornillos Torx externos de 6 mm.
Después de alinear la pantalla y la carcasa, aprieta los tornillos Torx internos de 6 mm, luego inserta y aprieta los tornillos Torx externos de 6 mm.

When re-assembling everything, you'll need to back out the inner screws a bit and align the upper case and display. After aligning them, tighten the inner screws again, then insert and tighten the outer screws.

bradeyh -

Paso 31

Abre tu MacBook para que la pantalla quede perpendicular a la caja superior.
Coloca su MacBook abierta sobre una mesa como se muestra en la imagen.
Mientras sujetas la pantalla y la carcasa superior con la mano izquierda, extrae el tornillo Torx de 6 mm del soporte inferior de la pantalla.

Paso 32

Asegúrate de sujetar la pantalla y la carcasa superior con la mano izquierda. Si no lo haces, la pantalla/carcasa superior liberada podría caerse, lo que podría dañar cada componente.
Retira el último tornillo Torx de 6 mm restante que sujeta la pantalla a la carcasa superior.

Paso 33

Toma la carcasa superior con la mano derecha y gírala ligeramente hacia la parte superior de la pantalla para que el soporte de la pantalla superior quede libre del borde de la carcasa superior.
Gira la pantalla ligeramente alejándola de la caja superior.
Levanta la pantalla y sepárala de la carcasa superior, prestando atención a los soportes o cables que puedan quedar atrapados.

Paso 34

Retira los cuatro tornillos Phillips de 1,2 mm resaltados en rojo.

Paso 35

Retira con cuidado el borde del panel táctil más cercano al teclado de su hueco en la carcasa superior empujándolo hacia afuera de los soportes conectados a la carcasa superior.
Desvía el cable del panel táctil a través de su ranura cortada en la carcasa superior.

I concur with Anonymous 596. There is a support wall that runs front to back, under keyboard, held down by 2 Phillips screws that will need to be removed & transferred to new upper case. You can see it being touched by index finger in this pic.

Macrepair SF - 27/08/19

Paso 36

Saca el trackpad del borde exterior de la carcasa superior.
Retira el trackpad y déjalo a un lado.

There's a missing step here. In addition to the trackpad, there's an aluminum structural piece that sits under the center of the keyboard, that has to be migrated from old to new case. It's clearly shown to the left of the repair-person's right hand in step 44.

anonymous 596 - 06/12/16

Paso 37

En los siguientes pasos, trabajarás en tu nueva carcasa superior.
Usa un destornillador Torx T6 para instalar sin apretar el tornillo de fijación de 1,1 mm incluido con su nueva carcasa superior en su orificio roscado cerca del centro de la abertura del panel táctil en su nueva carcasa superior.
Solo apriétalo alrededor de una vuelta por ahora.

I bought a used replacement case and had to move a few parts from the old case to the replacement. This included the battery indicator cable, the clips for the trackpad and the bracket in the center of the top case. So worth it at this point to compare your old and replacement case to be sure everything you need is there.

Ron - 07/04/17

my new case came with the set screw already installed, and i couldn’t loosen it. i didn’t want to strip it and cause a bigger problem, so i left it alone. the trackpad seems to work fine so far regardless, although i may take the bottom case off and play with it a little if i get a chance.

i also (just like Ron) had to move the trackpad clips, battery indicator and center bracket to the new case. they were not included.

Matt - 12/02/18

Paso 38

Inserta con cuidado el cable de tu antiguo panel táctil a través de la ranura cortada en tu nueva carcasa superior.
Usa una mano para sostener el cable del panel táctil en su lugar mientras inserta las dos lengüetas de retención en el borde exterior del panel táctil debajo del borde de la carcasa superior.
Tira del cable del panel táctil mientras colocas el panel táctil en su espacio vacío en tu nueva carcasa superior.

Paso 39

Inserta un tornillo Phillips de 1,2 mm en cada uno de los orificios exteriores perforados en el panel táctil (dos tornillos en total).
Instalarás el resto en un momento.
Aprieta los tornillos, luego sácalos un cuarto de vuelta para ayudar a alinear tu trackpad durante los próximos pasos.

Paso 40

Mientras intentas continuamente hacer clic en tu panel táctil, aprieta suavemente el tornillo de fijación Torx T6 hasta que los clics vuelvan a su "sensación" de fábrica.
Puedes saber cuándo el tornillo está bien apretado por el ruido que hace cuando el panel táctil hace clic. Si el tornillo de fijación está demasiado flojo, el panel táctil tendrá un juego excesivo antes de hacer clic.
Si está demasiado apretado, el panel táctil hará clic con demasiada facilidad y no hará el característico ruido fuerte del clic del mouse.

Paso 41

A continuación, voltea la carcasa superior para que el lado del teclado quede hacia arriba.
Alinea el trackpad para que quede centrado en su orificio cortado en la carcasa superior.

Pour l’alignement du Tradpad mettez sur les 4 cotés des morceaux de feuille A4😜.

Caruso -

Paso 42

Aprieta los dos tornillos exteriores a lo largo del borde interior del trackpad y verifica su alineación en el lado exterior de la carcasa superior.
Si su alineación se ve bien, instala el resto de los tornillos Phillips a lo largo del borde interior del panel táctil.
Antes de volver a armar stu máquina, verifica que el tornillo de fijación aún esté instalado en una posición en la que el mouse haga clic correctamente.

You can actually replace the keyboard alone fairly easily! I don't know why everyone says you have to replace the whole top case, because if you've got the guts to go this far, you might as well just peel back the illuminator cover and get to work pulling all those tiny screws in the keyboard... Just be careful when peeling up the black adhesive keyboard cover, because you will need to replace it. I used the edge of the ifixit Sesame tool (very thin flat metal opening tool) to carefully slip under any bits of adhesive, and had the keyboard exposed in no time. Also be careful because the clear plastic sheet is actually the keyboard illuminator. Once under all that, it's a mere 50 or so tiny screws, 2 screws in the power button backing, and you've got the keyboard out. Use a magnetized #000 phillips, it will make life much easier than anything else.

Logan Bean -

Absolutely right. I just replaced a keyboard the same way without much problem but i just want to add that those tiny screws need extra care as the heads can get damaged very easily. If damaged, they become very difficult to remove.

Masood -

I did just that on my mid-2010 MacBook Pro about a month ago and sadly will have to do it to my wife's Early-2011 one next week. I was cleaning all the crap off her keyboard and apparently nuked the K and 0 keys on her keyboard. Probably my ply challenge was aligning the keyboard illuminator. It's still not aligned properly on mine so some keys are better lit than others, but otherwise it was a relatively easy fix and far cheaper than replacing the entire upper case.

John Adam Wickliffe -

I replaced my keyboard less than an hour ago. The biggest pain/most time consuming was reattaching the ZIF connector for the keyboard and backlight. No matter what I did I could not get the %#*@ thing to reattach. What sadist designs these things? I had to walk away from the project for an hour and finally success.

All those screws will make you go crosseyed!

Gordon - 16/04/15

It helps to put some tape along the cable going lengthwise to the cable, and then fold the end of the tape onto itself to give yourself something to hold onto. This will give you some leverage to get that puppy into the socket.

maccentric - 24/02/16

I’m glad you managed !!!

I’m suffering :( take a part about 5 times…… ordered new (used) keyboard, the same results. I tested logic board in my daughter MAC, board works 100% no trouble ……. what could be wrong? there a secret how to reassemble keyboard parts together? I ripped a little bit black plastic thing, not top one with tiny connectors……

In the end I have two keyboards, cleaned and taken a part, both of them acting identical when installed. Some keys respond by giving absolutely not relevant symbols, beeping noise come with almost every key i pressed…..

Recovering after massive cappuccino spell after surprising hug :(((((

Aleksandra Perry - 07/12/17

I swear to post photo step by step, if I will achieve this one……….. assemble back to 100% working condition after total reassembling, ultrasonic cleaning and drying………. just keyboard panel.

Give me nightmares :) will be first time I have so much trouble to fix………

Aleksandra Perry - 07/12/17

I'm wondering about putting it back together. Different wires and small parts etc were glued or adhered in some way to the case or sides or whatever, as it is put together in the beginning. Is that just to make it easier to put it back together? Should I try to stick them back the way they were with something? Can you use tape or glue if it's just a wire? I wouldn't want to use something that would melt...or is this not something to worry apout?

ingwis - 28/05/15

I just used 1/4 polymide tape, and iFixit double sided tape. Works like a champ.

Brent Hillyer - 16/01/17

Reemplazo de la Carcasa Superior del MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009

Introducción

Herramientas

Partes

2 comentarios