Reemplazo de la Placa de Entrada de CC MagSafe del MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011

Escrito Por: Andrew Bookholt
  • Comentarios: 158
Reemplazo de la Placa de Entrada de CC MagSafe del MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011

Dificultad

Difícil

Pasos

20

Tiempo Requerido

1 - 2 horas

Introducción

Utilice esta guía para reemplazar una placa MagSafe DC-In rota.

  1. ZK52UttcjBKbEiPT

    • Extrae los siguientes diez tornillos:

    • Tres tornillos Phillips #00 de 14.4 mm

    • Tres tornillos Phillips #00 de 3.5 mm

    • Cuatro tornillos de resalto Phillips #00 de 3.5 mm

    • Al reemplazar los tornillos pequeños, alinéalos en perpendicular a la suave curvatura de la carcasa (no van perfectamente en vertical hacia abajo).

    How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

    gunes314 -

    You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

    Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

    Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

    Robert Wacker -

    Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

    taylornya -

    iFixit sells a kit: MacBook Pro Unibody Lower Case Screw Set

    Darrell Johnson -

    I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

    rodrigosady -

    I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

    Michael Wilkens -

    We have a guide for that!

    Cómo quitar un tornillo barrido

    Sam Omiotek -

    My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.

    jeremyyoung -

    A good Phillips 00 is your friend here. Also, when reinserting the screws, gently start anticlockwise and you wil feel a click at the start of the thread. This tells you you’re in the right place and less likely to cross-thread through force in the wrong place.

    Iain Boyd -

    I feel like these are 000 screws. Amazon sales describe them as such and my 000 screwdriver fits better

    cam2000deluxe -

    Before ordering a new Trackpad remove the existing battery and try clicking the Trackpad. If it clicks OK with the battery out the source of problem is likely a swollen battery, which should to be replaced even if it still works to some degree. From the side of the battery you will likely see the soft part of the battery bulging beyond the hard case.

    Patrick Langvardt -

    That’s absolutely correct as I can testify. With the battery removed I also adjusted the T6 set screw that adjusts the sensitivity of the trackpad click, evidently someone had cranked mine down tighter than the factory setting.

    Gary Register -

    Le quatrième paragraphe dans les instructions en français n’est pas correct : ce ne sont pas les 2 petites vis, mais les 7 petites vis qui sont inclinées. Et les 3 grandes sont bien verticales.

    Degeorges -

    Bonjour ! Merci de votre observation. J’ai corrigé la traduction. iFixit étant un wiki, n’hésitez pas à modifiez si vous remarquez une erreur :) Encore merci de votre attention et à bientôt !

    Claire Miesch -

    Tip: if you have a magnetic screw mat or similar, lay the macbook over the mat to make sure it catches any screws that may decide to fall of and hide under your table

    Moritz -

    Funny, it's not her hands that are doing the close ups. :)

    Cinemated Man -

    What's the difference between the shouldered and non shouldered screws? They look exactly the same to me.

    MLNLRD -

  2. vYHwhaRFGeCR2lAZ
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    • Usa tus dedos a modo de palanca para levantar la tapa inferior del cuerpo del MacBook por la zona del ventilador.

    • Extrae la tapa inferior.

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    • Usa el borde de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería haciendo palanca para extraer su toma de corriente de la placa madre.

    • Se recomienda hacer palanca en los laterales del conector para extraerlo de su toma de corriente. Ten cuidado con las esquinas de los conectores ya que pueden romperse con facilidad.

    Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

    manodh -

    yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

    khull -

    Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

    aekinaka -

    Be patient on disconnecting this one. It worked for me step by step, little by little.

    Phil Wagner -

    I used the nails of thumb and pointer finger simultaneously - worked pretty fine

    Reinhard Kaune -

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    • Dobla el cabre de la batería ligeramente para alejarlo de su conexión en la placa madre para evitar que se conecte accidentalmente mientras trabajas.

    I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

    Stephen Smith -

    That's a good tip

    Anrothan -

    Great tip, I did that too

    Ahmed Mahran -

    One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

    lelandjordon -

    On my MacBook Pro, the connector seems to be an integral part of the battery.

    Jerry South -

    I suspect it’s just like the special screwdriver required for seatbelts on cars – to discourage regular consumers from attempting repairs. Of course, this only encourages consumers to use the wrong tool to attempt to repairs

    colleenthompson -

    Dissambling my MacBookPro Premium Mid 2012 (i5-3210M 2.5Ghz) was easily, Careful with the screws, use screwdriver fitting exactly with the screws, you damage them very fast. Work very exactly, relaxed with time, consentration, good Tools and with feelings in your hands. Disconnect the Akku was easy if you take care, remove it to be safe, Two screws more, more space to work & haven`t to think about damaging someting. Apple use diffrent screws, you should have many difffrent scewdrivers. It is also good to clean everything inside, With time everything gets very dusty & dirty, don`t forget the sides and little fittings at the case. Use a pinsel, alcohol, soft peace stuff, it will look like new. If you have knowledge & experience, you can paint it in any colour or airbrushing for individualizing. You can also just polish it with a soft Politure (Sonax car Polish No1, NOT with wax or take an other light Politure you familiar & can do the job, A Laptop should serviced once a year, keeping it good working over years

    Stefan Lindner -

    First thing i do is open & cleanig everything inside,specially the cooling & fan, renew the thermal paste with an high quality product. Install the Nain System, clean up Bloatware and other unnecessary things, install standard software for daily use, additional change system components against better one (Edge to Firefox, Windows Media Player to VLC , an Office Suite and configuring everything for Data Protection, Privacy- & Indentety Protection, install Drivers from the component Manufactur (incedible effect, disable limitations, more functions, work better & faster, increasing performance, additional change the WiFi & Bluetooth Card to a better one a UMTS WWAN to an LTE Card, increase RAM with two Dual-Channel working SODIMMs, Use M2 or 2,5" SSD if no M2 Slot aviable) as System- and Software iDrive, a FAT32 formatted 32GB Partition to be safe of metaviruses comes with harmless downloads, and a big 2,5 HDD to store the user data. What does you guys think about this? Old Computer become a new life,

    Stefan Lindner -

    I livein Austria, near Vienna, if someone needs help or anything else, i would be glad to help. I always searching old or broken devices to bring them to new live. I also searching for spare parts, specilly a Bottom & Side Case and a 256GB or higher NGFF Storage Card for a Sony Vaio Tab 11 SVT1144HE (2014), some 14,1" Displays for a HP Probook 440G5 (2016), Elitebook MT 43 Mobile Thin Client, (2011), Dell Vostro 3460 (2012) Lenovo Thinkpad T440s (2014), and a Logic Board for an Lenovo Ideapad 330-15ARR (2017, damaged by Water i think) and a Logic Bord for an Alienware 17R4 with i7-6870HX & Nvidia 1080 (2018, CPU dead, maybe there is a repair Guide or workaround to bring it back to Life). I need always 8GB or 16GB DDR3 and DDR4 RAM Storage (perfectly two ident one for Dual-Channel use for Laptops, M2 SATA 6GB/s and NVMe PCIe SSDs 500GB or more and 2,5"SSD or HDD with 1TB or more and 3,5" HDD with 4GB or above. If you have some of this or other useful parts and doesn`t need them, please make me an offer, maybe

    2

    Stefan Lindner -

    an change something you need. This is not a Business what i do, it`s more a Hobby with challenging new Excercices.. Thats the best Point. Plase forgive me as a Newbie this very long Post in the wrong Section, but if you are start writing you cannot stop.... But now i have to come to an end and would be happy if someone wants to get in contact. My E-Mail is: udontknowme@gmx.at (the adress name is just a notice against Big Data and for Privacy Protection!

    Stefan Lindner -

  5. 6YGdeQLHBHfrCC3j
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    • Utilice el borde de un spudger para hacer palanca suavemente hacia arriba y hacia afuera del conector del ventilador en la placa lógica.

    • Es útil girar el spudger axialmente desde debajo de los cables del ventilador para liberar el conector.

    • El enchufe del ventilador y el conector del ventilador se pueden ver en la segunda y tercera imagen.

    • Tenga cuidado de no romper el enchufe de plástico del ventilador de la placa lógica mientras utiliza su spudger para levantar el conector del ventilador hacia arriba y fuera de su enchufe. El diseño de la placa lógica que se muestra en la segunda imagen puede ser ligeramente diferente al de su máquina, pero el enchufe del ventilador es el mismo.

    I successfully soldered the fan connector back on for a friend. I used a small soldering iron (maybe 6-10 watts) and ground the tip down to a very fine point. Also used a magnifying light and very fine rosin core solder. I took my time and lined everything up and was careful not to heat any other junction unnecessarily.

    Scott Stanley -

    Yup. Be careful on this one. I was trying to gently pry up and popped it off the socket. Computer working fine after replacing magsafe board, but no fan for cooling…

    Thomas Carr -

    This one is really delicate, as pointed out.  Be careful if using the pointed end of a spudger NOT to dig down and under ….there’s a layer of plastic-y insulation that can be torn.  I accidentally gored it with the pointy end of a spudger and it was slightly ripped.  Fortunately, I was able to press it down and there was no problem when the cable was reinserted.

    Carolyn Ryan -

    For less than $16 I ordered a new fan from amazon. Fans eventually start making noise. If they fail, your system could expire from heat. Consider simply replacing your fan since this model is now about five years old. Here’s link:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FWP...

    airshack -

    I used a guitar pick and gently wiggled underneath to lift it up and out of the socket. no damage! woo hoo! on to step 7!

    jcundy2 -

    I simply skipped this step and left fan wire connected to logic board. Just unscrew screws from Step 6, put fan on the logic board and remove whole stuff togheter.

    paczor -

    Thanks, I did that too,,

    a lot easier

    Ahmed Mahran -

    sorry i dont understand what you did? could you please explain more detailed?

    Olivier -

    Yes, tricky. Insert the spudger just like in the photo. You won’t be able to dig it out out from any other side. Also, notice which side of the connector faces down into the socket: it is the side without the four shiny gold areas (again, just like in the photo).

    rmccord23 -

    I used a really thin, plastic spudger gently inserting from each side on mid-2012 and then very gently twisting the spudger. It worked fine without tearing or damaging anything. When reinstalling the connector, do not forget to twist it 180 degrees so that the open side of the connector is facing down to insert properly for seating.

    Gary Renick -

  6. bW4jPWu5LTjGFhqM

    • Retira los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el ventilador a la placa lógica:

    • Un tornillo Torx T6 de 7,2 mm

    • Dos tornillos Torx T6 de 5,3 mm

    These are T5 screws

    dbell316 -

    I think so too, (maybe on a certain batch?) tried a T6 and its too big

    billytalentlovexo -

    I wasn’t able to open mine up. The heads looked like little triangles instead of hex torqx things. Is there a chart with the head shape of all the bits you can buy? I want to just get the one.

    Christopher Roode -

    They might be tri point

    Daniele Carminati -

    they were T6 for me

    Macrepair SF -

    T5 for me, my MBP was manufactured in 2015.

    colleenthompson -

    When seating the fan, be aware that the cutout on the fan for the wire harness may not match up with the cutout on the board itself. Line the wires up to the board and then seat the fan in an incremental manner - gently pushing at each connecting hole. Then put the screws in without tightening at first. Once all of the screws are seated, then sequentially snug them up. Finally, push down gently on the fan and snug up each screw without over tightening. I found that the fan seats a tad further and I wanted to avoid future rattles. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THOUGH.

    Gary Renick -

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    • Levante el ventilador de su lugar en la placa lógica, teniendo cuidado con el cable que podría quedar atrapado.

    Note that, as per the photo, the fan goes in label side DOWN. Took me a few minutes to figure that out!

    colleenthompson -

    Before reinstalling the new fan and for novices like me, do not forget to have a can of compressed on hand to clear out years of dust, fine fibers, and maybe even a cat hair from the fins blowing outward. Do not shake the bottle and hold it upright, and use small squirts of air.

    Gary Renick -

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    • Utiliza la punta de un spudger para sacar el cable del altavoz/subwoofer derecho por debajo del dedo de retención moldeado en la caja superior.

    • Jala el cable del altavoz/subwoofer derecho hacia arriba para sacar el conector de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    Reminder: When replacing the cable the connector should be placed in from above. This fooled me and I damaged the seat a bit, but not enough to prevent proper connection.

    Lee Hughart -

    Excellent guide, I feel this bit could be clearer tho. As it is a socket like a fan connector.

    Mine had a foam pad on the top like the other lift-up connections and I’ve accidentally taken the socket off.

    So just to be aware if your mac has the foam pad on top of this connection.

    acupton86 -

    I’ve broken the connector of the speaker (on the logic board) by installing it in the wrong way.

    Now, I ordered the connector from aliexpress, and have to do some micro soldering and hopefully it’ll work.

    Be careful guys

    iAziz -

    This one took me a moment to figure out. I also have the foam pad and couldn't see where the socket begins. Use the flat end of the spudger and go underneath the red/black cable part close to the socket, then slowly lift it up until it loosens a little, then do the same on the other side.

    Chris -

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    • Desconecta el cable de la cámara de la placa lógica.

    • Tira del cable paralelo a la cara de la placa lógica. Jalar el cable hacia arriba puede dañar la placa lógica o el cable mismo.

    The camera cable head has bump at both sides. Just use two spudgers to pry it out.

    townbull -

    thank you great suggestion

    Soham Thacker -

    Here's where the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes its first major departure from this guide. No such connection exists. At least nowhere I could find on the motherboard.

    Larry Horton -

    IIRC the official service manual suggests putting the blunt or wide edge of a black-stick/spudger underneath the cable and then pressing down on said cable to provide better gripping force while pulling the cable out/away from the connector. It’s my tried-and-true method of choice.

    James -

    Anyone has a data of this cable becausei brkoe it and i have an other same connector ??

    Mail : mr.leminecrafteur@gmail.com

    VARE -

    Just broke this cable by pulling to hard. Definitely use a spudger to pry out the connector instead of pulling the cable.

    maxpoetter -

    Same, any suggestion about its replacement?

    giovanni.billet -

    Really grip those little bumps on the head with a pair of pliers and gently wiggle!

    moonsugar33 -

    In case you need replacement parts for the broken cable : http://www.powerbookmedic.com/MacBook-Pr...

    To find out how to replace the cable, you can have a look at this tutorial : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...

    Guillaume Lamaison -

    Die Metallverbindung besteht aus zwei Teilen. Der kabelferne Teil drückt den Stecker nach unten. Der kabelferne Teil ist ein festgelöteter Schuh. Mit Hilfe einer dünnen Präpariernadel konnte ich den kabelzugewandten, beweglichen Metall-Teil der Verbindung zum einen horizontal herausschieben, zum anderen habe ich gleichzeitig gezogen. Nicht zu viel Kraft beim Ziehen aufwenden.

    Mir hat geholfen, ein Makrofoto vom Stecker zu machen, um ihn zu verstehen.

    hpw -

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    • Desconectar los cuatro siguientes cables:

    • Cable del AirPort/Bluetooth

    • Cable de la Unidad Optica

    • Cable del Disco Duro

    • Cable del Trackpad

    • Para desconectar los cables, utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para extraer sus conectores de los zócalos de la placa lógica.

    On the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the Airport/Bluetooth cable is different from the other three cables in this step. It's fabric wrapped, and its connection works in a fashion more like the display data cable connection, although it does not have a lock that releases by pulling a tab back over the cable. So, to those of you who are repairing this model, be careful. Prying upward is not the way to remove this cable. I played with it until I could detect which parts were moving which way and why. Although I can't say with precision how the connection works, I removed it by gently coaxing slightly up at an angle and back along the plane of the optical drive. The idea is to pull the cable back out of its socket while lifting slightly.

    Too bad we can't post photos in the comments.

    Larry Horton -

    Same with the Mid 2010 model - moving the cable parallel to the board, towards the optical device works fine.

    Hans -

    It is advised to tape all those connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey -

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    • Usa la uña para voltear la solapa de retención en el zócalo ZIF del cable plano del teclado.

    • Asegúrate de que estés empujando hacia arriba en la solapa de retención con bisagra, no la toma en sí.

    • Utiliza la punta de un spudger para sacar el cable plano del teclado su zócalo.

    • El cable puede ser difícil de insertar. Si tienes problemas, pega temporalmente una pieza de cinta al cable para ayudarte guiar el cable dentro del zócalo.

    Hello i've a late 2011 and have manged to break the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Is this a part that can be replaced? Ribbon is still good just the plastic has broken on the edge. Thanks

    Derek Cowan -

    No, You'll need to replace the logic board. I'd probably just use a wired or bluetooth keyboard and put the money towards a new machine.

    maccentric -

    I ran into trouble reattaching the keyboard ribbon cable into the ZIF socket. I couldn't grasp it in a way that let me push it all the all back. A local repair guy told me his trick: use a piece of tape. Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.

    David -

    Buy that man a pint! I've been working on computers professionally for a decade and I've never thought of that trick. Brilliant!

    Gryyphyn -

    Amazing this saved me!

    Felipe Cordero -

    You've saved me countless hours of crying trying to simply push it in

    Tunipguy -

    Thanks! This saved me hours!

    Marc Steffen -

    Thank you so much. Very clever idea that works like a charm!

    Todd Walls -

    Thank you so much! After 15 minutes of frustration, it inserted in less than 5 seconds.

    Todd Walls -

    I didin't read this before, but it was the idea i had in the moment... after 30 minutes of struggle. Thanks!

    Franco Iván Bello Rojas -

    After I put it all back together, the keyboard didn’t work; I traced it to this cable not being plugged in all the way. I used the tape trick to coax it all the way in to seat well and it works like a charm.

    Ruedi Schubarth -

    Thanks for the tip about keyboard ribbon, saved me a major headache

    domhnallk -

    It’s worth pointing out that the lever to lift this is at the back of the connector and that you’re pulling it towards yourself - this then releases the plastic on top of the cable that’s holding it in place.

    Nick Watts -

    The tape tirck saved my bacon!! Thank YOU!

    Jonathan Davis -

    Thanks so much. This trick saved the day!!!!

    Rafael Giuliano -

    It is advised to tape this connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey -

    Der Sicherungsbügel kann leicht mit dem Fingernagel vom Mainboard um 90 Grad zu mir her geklappt werden. ACHTUNG: Genau lesen, filigrane Teile gehen leicht kaputt.

    hpw -

    The tape trick worked for the smaller keyboard backlight ribbon but not this bigger ribbon…. I might take it to a repair shop because I’m out of ideas. Anyone know any other solution? I think someone mentioned using a pencil eraser as a grip on another site… might try that.

    hi there -

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    • Si se encuentra presente, retira la tira pequeña de la cinta negra que cubre el zócalo del cable de retroiluminación del teclado.

    The bottom of the small strip has excellent adhesive which will re-stick upon reassembly without any problems. I handled the sticky side and even stuck it to a plastic tray without any issues. Which is to say the sticky-ness does not seem to wear off.

    airshack -

    This is the most difficult ribbon cable to reinsert. As noted in the comments for the keyboard ribbon cable above I’d recommend also using a a small piece of tape to help reinsert.

    Bill Kirby -

    I used Blu-Tac on the end of my spudger to provide a gentle grip to get it to slide in.

    moonsugar33 -

    It is advised to tape this connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey -

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    • Usa la punta de un spudger o de tu uña para voltear la solapa de retención en el zócalo del cable plano de contraluz del teclado ZIF.

    • Asegúrate de que estás empujando hacia arriba en la solapa de retención con bisagras, no la toma en sí.

    • Extrae el cable de la cinta de contraluz del teclado de su receptáculo.

    The first time I reassembled the system I left this tiny ribbon connector under the logic board by accident. If your keyboard backlight no longer works after reassembly it’s because you forgot to reattach this small connector. Fortunately, I caught my mistake before securing the logic board screws. It’s an easy to miss item.

    airshack -

    It is advised to tape this connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey -

    What the part name, i accidently broken this part

    Sandy Mustika Alam -

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    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para apalancar el conector del sensor de sueño/batería hacia arriba desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    the sleep sensor/battery indicator were not included with my new case, i had to transfer them over from my old case. once the battery is out (step 22), you can see the three screws you need to remove in order to take it out. it’s also secured by adhesive. the button for the battery indicator will likely fall out (at least it did on mine) when you remove the board, so be careful not to lose it…my new case did come with the button for the battery indicator (even though it didn’t come with the board or cable), but i just re-used the old one.

    Matt -

    I forgot to place this tiny flex cable on top of the mainboard, and tried to recover it from under (lazy!) so I broke it.

    In general I would tape all those connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey -

    Update: the computer works even without this feature. Of course the led battery indicator does not work, but it is not a big loss.

    dbovey -

    Does it still sleep properly?

    maccentric -

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    • Sujeta la lengüeta de plástico que esta sujeta al bloqueo del cable de datos de la pantalla y gírala hacia el lado de entrada de DC del equipo.

    • Tira del cable de dato de la pantalla para sacarlo de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • No levantes el cable de datos de la pantalla, ya que su zócalo es muy frágil. Tira del cable paralelo a la cara de la placa lógica.

    Its quite delicate, pull gently and it will pop out with a slight clicking sound

    Leo Jose -

    On my mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the display data cable was square with the motherboard, rather than at an angle. I'm not experienced with working on computer connections, but if I were going to describe this procedure, it would be more like:

    "Grasp the plastic tab on the end of the display data cable connection, and pull it gently back over the cable, toward the DC-in board. The tab is connected to a flat rectangular 'ring' that locks the cable to its connection, and when you pull the tab, the rectangular lock will flip back over the cable, allowing the cable to be removed by pulling the same direction, parallel to the surface of the motherboard."

    Larry Horton -

    Exactly the same as on the Mid2010 Model - never pull up, always parallel to the board, using the spudger to keep the cable down might helpfull while pulling with fingers the cable towards DC-In at the right side.

    Hans -

    My display is not working after reassemble the mac.

    Any reason?

    Nitin Sonwal -

    I had the same problem, and it was solved by slightly unscrewing the 14.4 mm screw that sits nearest the ESC button (upper left hand side, if the computer is open as if you’re using it). All the way screwed in, and the display conks out (something must be getting pinched). Slightly loosened, and the display immediately came back!

    Shannon Maguire -

    I choose not to remove this, just laid the board over. Worked just fine.

    Justin Patterson -

    I second this. It’s quite easy to leave this connection in place. The board flips over nicely, and everything is still accessible.

    Steven Weeks -

    I used my phone to photograph the entire underside of the Macbook Pro before I started removing things. This photo helped augment the excellent photos here. Take a few close-ups of each section/item before disassembly to reference upon assembly.

    airshack -

    when reattaching the display cable, i used the spudger to tuck the spongy top flap underneath the cable lock, so that i could then get the cable lock down the entire way. i couldn’t get it under there (and get the lock closed) without it, the top part of the display cable blocked it.

    Matt -

    When replaced the logic board when reassembled lap top screens not working. Saw others similar issues plugged in my monitor it’s working great must have messed up any ideas how to fix?

    Wayne McCarthy -

    Hi Wayne, and Michael! I had the same problem, and it was solved by slightly unscrewing the 14.4 mm screw that sits nearest the ESC button (upper left hand side, if the computer is open as if you’re using it). All the way screwed in, and the display conks out (something must be getting pinched). Slightly loosened, and the display immediately came back! —Shannon

    Shannon Maguire -

    My display is not working after I put everything back together, can hear the macbook chime. Tried shining light onto the display, see nothing. Tried loosening the screw slightly like someone suggested here, that does not help either. Tried cleaning the contacts of the LVDS cable, nothing. Any help appreciated.

    Don Seenu -

    Found a solution: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjIQXwit...

    Don Seenu -

    This resolved it for me. My clasp wasn’t didn’t seem worn in any way but it seemed when it was clamped it caused the short circuit causing my screen to be black upon turning on. Lifting the clasp immediately resolved it. Odd issue! Thanks very much for the video. Incredibly helpful.

    Chris Gervais -

  16. qEvWyMNBEbJbG5BH

    • Retira los siguientes tornillos:

    • Cinco tornillos T6 Torx de 3.6 mm.

    • Dos tornillos T6 Torx 4.3 mm.

    • Dos tornillos T6 Torx de 7.2 mm.

    • En algunos modelos, los tornillos pueden ser ligeramente cortos de la siguiente manera:

    • Cinco tornillos T6 de 3.0 mm

    • Dos tornillos T6 de 3.6 mm

    • Dos tornillos T6 de 6.7 mm

    2 of the 7 listed 4mm screws attaching the logic board are actually 4.5 or 5 mm.... unfortunately. I didn't notice that until I was reassembling. so I don't know which positions they came from.

    starf1970 -

    I'm just noticing this too... I've put the longer screws as the two on the far left of the picture because they seemed to be the two holes I couldn't see the bottom to.

    ForumHermit -

    Just took one apart and paid attention this time. On this Mac, the screws colored orange should be red, and the 2 screws on the left side of the board should be orange (they’re a bit longer).

    maccentric -

    For keeping the screws straight I drew a simple diagram and placed them on it head down/threads up in their respective positions. Then all screws went back into their original positions without any guess work. Another suggestion I have during assembly is to start the screws without torquing them all the way down - leave them a little loose to allow some adjustment of the logic board for getting them all to line up with their holes, then torque them down. This technique also works for the screws on the bottom cover/lower case.

    Great guide! Saved me some dough, and now my MagSafe connector stays nice and cool.

    gregory mogle -

    for me the two on the farthest left were the 4.3mm screws. otherwise all went as described

    Levi Hoover -

    on something like this (like in iphones) i print the picture and place the screws on the picture. saves some problems and guessing.

    jeff chasalow -

    Well on my mid 2012 MacBook Pro the screw heads are definitely not T6 but rather J000. Will place the removed screws on a paper drawing of logic board. Good tip ….

    dontrep7a3 -

  17. EmuxSAVFeeWnUIpq
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    • Retira los dos siguientes tornillos:

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 8.6 mm

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 5.5 mm

    • Retira el retenedor del cable de datos de la pantalla de la caja superior.

    Definitely not necessary to remove this bracket. You can disconnect the mic from the logic board and not have to deal with this bracket.

    kc7gnm77 -

  18. TSDkwsJJM3ZeunmW

    • Usa la punta de un spudger para quitar suavemente el micrófono del adhesivo que lo sujeta a la carcasa superior.

    Careful with this one. The wires are very thin fragile and it’s glued down very well making it extremely hard to remove. Just go slow and be patient otherwise you’ll damage the wires.

    Rob Kruit -

    I finally got that mic out by gripping it between two spudgers like a pair of chopsticks and gently pulling it out at an angle. The rubber shroud on it makes the thing hard to grip, and when I finally pulled it free, part of the adhesive ring tore off and stayed stuck to the chassis. When reassembling the machine, I had to kind of squish it back into place. It doesn’t hold quite as well as it did before, but it seems fine.

    Thomas -

    I managed to get the board out without prying the microphone off by twisting the board out while the microphone is still connected.

    You can then disconnect the microphone cable, which is a similar style connector to the fan cable and remove the board completely

    Alex -

    Vraiment pénible cette déconnection, allez y gentiment et la colle partira.

    raph raph -

    when reseating the logic board, first install the DC board in position and loosely seat the screws. then try to align the logic board to the 3.6mm screw housing closest to the firewire/ thunderbolt port and align the board to the ports and gently drop it into position. watch out for the cables that can get snagged under the board while seating it.

    Avocet Peregrine -

  19. IJie6MvkGZXLWiT1

    • Acopla los muchos conectores cerca de sus bordes, levanta la placa lógica del extremo más cercano a la unidad óptica.

    • Sin doblar la placa, maniobra para sacarla de la caja superior, teniendo en cuenta la conexión flexible a la placa de entrada de DC que puede quedar atrapada en la caja superior.

    • Retire la placa lógica.

    I had the same issue. After wiggling the logic board back and forth and slowly applying more force, just up the threshold where I felt uncomfortable, it came out. The problem appeared to be caused by glue on the heatsink barcode sticking to the layer underneath.

    Shaun -

    I did all this, and worked! .but Im wondering, has anybody unscrewed what seems to be a mini heatsink (black 1 inch square housing) on the integrated GPU? Could I re apply paste on that?

    tony perry -

    I did make the change yesterday. inside it has a thermal pad, that appears to be 3mm or less. i try to clean on my best. I make a making a very tick pea size and added again. but i have no idea if it works or not. still having temps on 56c on idle. there is no much info on that. i use MX-4 from arctic. but i still, in my option, a little to for my use. if someone have more info on that part on the late 2011 i7 macbook pro 13inch please send the info.

    Carlos De Bernard -

    I did and applied Arctic Silver 5 underneath instead of the crap tape they put under there. This alone stopped the random freezing and rebooting problem I was having with this macbook pro. I recommend if you're already that deep into it, you might as well do it. I'm glad I did.

    ej257lgt -

    Need help. After I put everything back together, everything works fine but my macbook just wont charge. Any diagnosis on this? Anyone who can explain to me how the battery and the charging work in a Mac?

    justfinditjoshyip -

    If this happened to me, I would first suspect I hadn't completely connected the DC-in board cable. If I hadn't just replaced the battery, I would wonder if the battery was good. MagSafe power cable connect connections fail too, especially if they've been attached for a long time to a red hot DC-in board.

    If those failed, I'd head to the genius bar!

    Larry Horton -

    I had this problem. I accidentally cut the a cable from the DC-in board and I had to buy this component and replace it. You have to be very careful when mounting back the logic board in its position to not get a cable from the DC-in board cut by the screws.

    Enrique Cerrillo Cuenca -

    I broke the black backlight shield.... be careful when you feel the logic board and the film underneath it seem stickinig togethre.

    EUNAE JO -

    The fan exhaust grille was catching onto the speaker unit so I had to skip to step 28 to take it out. After taking out the airport card the speaker was able to move away from the fan grille and let me lift out the logic board.

    MrUnkownGuy -

    Also be sure to lift up the logic board to a slight angle so it clears the optical drive then pull it out gently at that angle. Do not pull it ulwards.

    MrUnkownGuy -

    The mainboard got stuck with the speaker and I can't lift it up. So I removed the first speaker screw (Wich is nearest to the mainboard) then I was able to remove the mainboard

    Mauricio Larrea -

    I removed the battery …. helps getting the logic board out.

    dontrep7a3 -

  20. UW2IHkosTed5fjBK

    • Tira del cable de la placa MagSafe DC-In hacia el disipador de calor para desconectarlo de la placa lógica. No tires hacia arriba. Tira del conector hacia arriba puede romper el zócalo de la placa lógica. Retira la placa MagSafe DC-In.

    • Insertar traducción aquí

    • Insertar traducción aquí

    My experience with the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes me suggest paying close attention to how the DC-in board's cabling is situated as you remove the motherboard from the computer, especially in relation to the microphone and the display data cable retainer. The replacement DC-in board I used had fabric wrapping around the individual cables to the motherboard. Consequently, there is more material to navigate between these parts on reassembly.

    I managed to make it work, but if I had paid more attention to exactly how the cable was routed before removing the original, reassembly might have been easier.

    Larry Horton -

    It took me a while  to work up the courage to take this project on….after I’d received  the part from eBay.  I was  concerned about finding a way to get my daughter’s photos and documents retrieved before taking it on.  My dilemma was that there didn’t seem to be a way to charge the battery, which  only had about 5% left.  I used a 276gb flash drive to transfer  the essential  stuff using the remaining battery life.  Then I took the project on.  For a while, I still couldn’t get the bright green or amber light to come on, but just left the laptop plugged in with the dimmest green light showing on the magsafe charger.  After a few days, the battery charged up (almost like a slow trickle charge).  I fiddled with resetting  few things, per several suggestions, to no avail.  Today, however, out of a clear blue sky, I plugged the charger into the magsafe port and it turned green, then amber for the first time, and started charging pretty fast.  It seems a bit finicky about how it rests in the socket. Go for it!

    Carolyn Ryan -

    Hi Carolyn, I am in the same boat as you. I have the parts, just waiting for the courage ! I have already replaced the battery and the trackpad without any issues. Just concerned about breaking anything in the disassembly process. Maybe Apple make these parts so delicate on purpose so that its not user friendly to easily replace without risk (otherwise everyone would be doing it themselves right - no fun or $ for Apple !).. Wish you were here to guide me through the process (knowing that you have already been there, done that ! so to speak !). Cheers Ron

    Ron -

    Hi so I finally got the piece I needed in today after having the issue of the mac not turning on at all when plugged in. and followed everything carefully and reassembled but upon plugging in the charger it's just a black screen. there's nothing no sound no fan spinning no nothing other than the chargers green light. Does anyone know what the actual problem could be if it was indeed not the charging port?

    Jasef Ibarra -

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

Autor

Andrew Bookholt

578639 Reputación

17 comentarios

It's worth noting that the two ribbon cables held in place by ZIF connectors are a real pain to put back in - it's very hard to get any force pushing them back into the ZIF connector. It took two small tweezers and a bit of luck on the keyboard cable.

peter -

To get back the keyboard ribbon I put the piece of Anti-Static Kapton Tape to enter it.

Ivan Oliveras -

As stated the keyboard connector is a nightmare to get back in, how I finally did it is, I presented the cable to the socket and using a sticky label pressing down pulled the label towards the centre of the mainboard

The magsafe connector is not under the mainboard and it would be easy for apple to have designed it so that the socket was on the top not the underside of the mainboard

brian whittle -

I was using my Laptop (literally in my lap), with the charger connected when it felt very warm on my pant leg. Felt the bottom of the case by the Mag Safe connector and it was very hot, almost burnt my hand. Surprisingly hot. Wouldn't charge right after that, kept getting hot, intermittent charging. Looked at the contacts with a jewelers loupe; the gold contacts were burnt and blistered, plastic melted so it wouldn't make full contact with the AC charger. Charger contacts OK. Replaced DC in board, works like new, saved a bundle of cash. Laid all the screws out in related groups on table top. e.g. All 10 cover screws in a square. MoBo Screws in MoBo pattern, or, you could use a small metric/millimeter ruler to tell which screw goes where.

ovenwally -

This is a terrific guide. My project, a mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5, was a little different, and the biggest challenges I experienced were places where my computer's connections were different than the model illustrated. So I'll share how that computer differed for those who might come up against the same challenges. I'll add those notes and illustrations in the sections that apply.

I lucked out with the two keyboard ribbon cables. I simply nudged them into place with two different spudgers—one to pry gently upward from underneath, the other to redirect that force to press the cable directly into its slot. I was anticipating a struggle, but it was a nothing.

Thanks for the great work, Andrew Bookholt, and everyone else!

Larry Horton -

I used this guide to replace the magsfae DC jack on my Macbook Pro 13 A1278 Mid 2012 model. It matches to the letter.

face -

Excellent guide. Everything went as described and new magsafe works like a champ!

Levi Hoover -

Replaced in about an hour, I broke the fan conector so do it as is explained here.

My jack works and charge perfectly since the first boot

Erick Servin -

Same here i don’t know what is the problem now..

BENBACHIR YASSINE -

Worked well. My laptop would not charge unless I did the jiggle with the connector, eventually it stopped charging altogether, so had to do this.

Spent about 2 hours, but totally worth it. My battery indicator lights don't seem to work, but at least the Macbook charges properly.

Omkar Danke -

Extremely helpful! Thank you so much for sharing! Most likely saved me a bunch of money!

Justin Patterson -

Yess!! I made it thanks to this tutorial.

My reason to replace this MagSafe DC-in Board is that it wasn’t charging anymore. This happend when I had a short circuit on my MacSafe power adapter cable because it was broken.

Hertzberger -

It worked well. The strip connectors were a pain to remove/replace but it functions properly. It was disconcerting for a while as the fan ran at full speed for about 10 minutes after logging in the user account again.

magawk -

Súper happy!!! All good!!!! Got my replacement parts and tools and work like a charm. Perfect fit everything!!! Didn’t took me that long not even an hour and also cleaned a bit on the inside!!!! Thanks so much!!!! Love to see the insides of my computer!!!!

Cecilamor Ares -

I just replaced mine and the charger now won't light up. It doesn't show its charger at all.

gourleygarrett -

great tutorial! Coupled with the comments, this is a nearly klutz/idiot-proof walk through the belly of the beast! I say nearly, because you should never underestimate the human races potential for disaster, it is truly a force to be reckoned with!

Thanks for the time and expertise shared with us mere mortals!

mark hanes -

Andrew, I am an engineer, graduate of northern eastern university. I must admit you brought back memories of my best times. Also affiliated with MIT, ham fest and flee market. And mechanical side with my 67 SS 396! Your video was very instructive and many good people adding comments to assist with the video!! This entire website is a keeper!! Thank you and all!

frmuscles -