Reemplazo de la batería de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla de Retina Principios de 2015

Escrito Por: Andrew Optimus Goldheart
  • Comentarios: 368
Reemplazo de la batería de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla de Retina Principios de 2015

Dificultad

Difícil

Pasos

36

Tiempo Requerido

45 minutos - 2 horas

Introducción

Utiliza esta guía para remover la batería pegada de tu MacBook Pro. La mejor manera de realizarlo es con el kit de reemplazo de batería de iFixit. El removedor de adhesivo en tu kit disolverá el adhesivo que sujeta la batería, permitiéndote removerla con facilidad. Además puedes utilizar un iOpener para aplicar una cantidad modesta de calor para ablandar el adhesivo antes de sacar la batería.

El removedor de adhesivo de iFixit es altamente inflamable. Realiza este procedimiento en un área muy bien ventilada. No fumes o trabajes cerca de una flama al descubierto durante este procedimiento.

"Para minimizar el riesgo de daños, enciende tu MacBook y deja que la batería se descargue por completo antes de empezar este procedimiento. Una batería de iones de litio cargada puede crear un incendio peligroso si se perfora accidentalmente. Si tu batería está hinchada, toma precauciones adicionales.

Nota: El solvente utilizado para disolver el adhesivo de batería puede dañar ciertos plásticos, como los recintos de plástico de los altavoces de la MacBook Pro. Ten cuidado al aplicar el solvente.

  1. ovJZXaUhKXaROGSa

    • Quita los 10 tornillos que aseguran la parte inferior de la carcasa a la parte superior:

    • Dos tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 2.3 mm

    • Ocho tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 3.0 mm

    • A lo largo de esta reparación, realiza un seguimiento de cada tornillo y asegúrate de que vuelva exactamente de donde proviene para evitar dañar tu dispositivo.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos -

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing -

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward -

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch -

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch -

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard -

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash -

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham -

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie -

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers -

    Installation of replacement AirPort card was easier than I had expected thanks to this guide. Thank you.

    chaslaw -

    I use replaced SSD and it was super easy and working great. I can finally upgrade Mac OS with plenty of room to spare and no more low memory alerts. Well worth investment and didn’t have to buy new laptop

    Pete James -

    It's interesting that this tutorial is rated Moderate even though you need to remove the battery. The battery removal tutorial which is basically the same but with fewer steps is rated Difficult.

    Marv Ruona -

    when i pulled the screws out i arranged them in the same way they were in. the top 2 middle screws appeared to be shorter than the rest. in order to keep them in place i got a square of packing tape sticky side up, taped both sides down with 2 other pieces of tape. and then put the screws head down in the order i pulled them.

    Jason Wade -

    Excellent instructions although checking battery and speakers aligned before fixing batteries into place is essential. MacBook good as new!

    John Foreman -

    I find it helpful to spread a soft, slightly fuzzy cloth (like flannel) over my workspace before doing something with small parts. It keeps screws and things from rolling or bouncing away. A towel might be too plush, though, as a screw might get lost in it.

    Richard KeslerWest -

  2. LeHZGQqOmJ5HNBPs

    • Introduce tus dedos entre la parte superior y la parte inferior de la carcasa.

    • Tira suavemente de la carcasa inferior para retirarla.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont -

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll -

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman -

  3. 3QrmmYdOGiTrsDa3
    3QrmmYdOGiTrsDa3
    ZD5XX1oOYH2LCLLQ

    • La carcasa inferior está conectada a la carcasa superior con dos clips de plástico cerca de su centro.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, empuja suavemente hacia abajo el centro de la carcasa inferior para volver a sujetar los dos clips de plástico.

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt -

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman -

    If you’re doing an iFixIt battery replacement, the replacement battery has two rubber nubs which are right where the clips are that receive these studs. Folks have been saying it’s hard to get the studs to clip back in after replacement, and I had the same issue. I trimmed the top of these rubber nubs, which are a bit bigger than those on the original battery, with some side cutters. That made the fit much better.

    Rob Gorbet -

  4. RjNdjyPoDnNTyyUB

    • Si es necesario, remueve la cubierta de plástico adherida a la placa de contacto de la batería.

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm -

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose -

    Dear Sir,

    as you seem to be very much experienced with battery replacements you might perhaps give me a hint why after having removed the battery pack successfilly, the keyboard doesn't work anymore after booting the system. The Touchpad works, the keyboard backlight works but typing does not function at all.

    I only disconnected the battery connector and touched nothing else. I am quite desperate …

    Gerd Uyan -

    I agree with Dave la Rose, provided you use heat rather than solvent to remove the old battery (or possibly floss, haven’t done that). Please see my comment further down this thread on how to use an iOpener for correctly heating the glue joint

    I. Margaronis -

  5. Z3NUBtyfmOAH54su
    Z3NUBtyfmOAH54su
    MGkoyh6DPJiRtR6G

    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de batería directamente de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    • Asegúrate de levantar solo en el conector o puedes arriesgarte a dañar la placa lógica permanentemente.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon -

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama -

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg -

    Thank you Richie I was trying to lift the socket.

    be careful the little square block is actually made of 2 parts and you only have to lift the upper part as Richie said

    ilyes -

    You can do it from the side like the picture, but i would recommend twisting almost like a screw driver once you have leverage under the overhanging part of the left side like in the picture. Twist the tool so that it starts to put pressure on the top, until you’ll hear it click out. You can be somewhat forceful but it shouldn’t require a lot of strength. Guiding the tool with one hand and twisting with the other is a good way to attempt this.

    Colin Nowers -

    After I put the battery back I found out at this step that the new battery connector was off by 2 mm (because I installed my battery slightly off). Since the connector is rigid, I removed it’s plastic cover (just like we all did in Step 4) to free the cable, which allowed me to bent it enough to properly plug the connector.

    Marc -

    Simple question: why we need to do this, I mean, disconnect battery from main board?

    Bin Zhu -

    Well, I’m reading this step in the battery replacement repair guide, so it’s pretty critical to disconnect the battery from the main board. I’m guessing these steps are reused in other guides where disconnecting the battery might not be such an obvious need.

    surf -

    The connector wires from the battery to the connector are long

    You'll have to bend them downward and into the small cove that exists so the connector can fit in place.
    So use the a plastic card or flat end of the spudger to bend them downward and folded a bit back so the connector will fit in place.
    Use your old battery as a guide for how they should be bent.

    RON BUENO -

    Hi All ,

    I followed the instructions step by step and changed the board successfully and reconnected everything back. When I powered it back on I can see it is charging again however it just displays a black screen and no display. Keyboard light comes on as well and the apple logo light on the back lid also turns on. Not sure what is wrong ? It has been charging for more than 15 minutes and still no joy. Anyone able to help solve or identify the issue .

    Thanks

    Kaleem -

    The connector cover is slightly wider and longer than the socket (<1mm) so there is a small "lip" around the top that can be used to lift it.

    Richard KeslerWest -

    If your are not familiar with those repairs, and as with most of those connections, I recommend to take the time to observe your computer and the pictures from the tutorial, reading instructions and comments before starting each step. This battery connector needs both a bit of force and of precision. For a battery repair the connection of the new battery is a bit more tricky, you need to have your battery in the right position and to force it a bit the connector

    David Obis -

  6. FwTIMvtITSjKBUfL

    • Pliega el conector de la batería hacía arriba y sácalo del medio para prevenir contacto accidental con su enchufe durante la reparación.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes -

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab -

    @sebasgaes, shoot, I'm only part way through the process, but I skipped this step thinking it wasn't necessary. I'm only through step 12 right now, but is there a fix if my machine doesn't recognize the wifi hardware after I've put it all back together? I don't see reference to the "I/O board cable" anywhere else in the instructions, so I'm confused about your mention of that...

    jiclark -

    UPDATE: I completed the job, rebooted, and all is well, wifi and all. Thanks anyway; gotta love iFixIt!!

    jiclark -

  7. BaEMrdqmfI1UZZTE
    BaEMrdqmfI1UZZTE
    GpYgLOmsPVIG133R

    • Remueve los dos tornillos Torx T5 de 2.1 mm que sujetan el extremo de la placa lógica del soporte del cable de placa de E/S.

    • Remueve el soporte del cable de la placa E/S

    Do you know where I can purchase the i/o board cable bracket?

    jodieabc -

    On my Mac they are p6 screws, not T5?!

    tyler.aman -

    Same for me. T6 screws, with a slighly narrow band (no central connector).

    Catalin Dumitru -

  8. HUXvyUfWMF4pYVJC
    HUXvyUfWMF4pYVJC
    1kfpQqSn4pT5RkBj

    • Usa el extremo plano del spudger para sacar el conector de placa de E/S directamente de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    • Ten cuidado de sacarlo del cable de placa de E/S y no del enchufe porque corres el riesgo de dañar tu placa lógica.

    Since I did not remove speakers I skipped this step and went directly to step 17

    Peter Stoll -

    I don’t understand why the instructions would tell you to remove the speakers if it wasn’t necessary. Can the battery be replaced WITHOUT removing the speakers?

    iwm4 -

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step (Step 8) is not required, nor are any of the other steps that involve removing the left and right speakers. It is possible to remove the old battery and install a new battery without removing the speakers.

    Luke Schoen -

    I couldn’t skip steps 12 & 15 because the speaker assemblies are holding down parts of the battery.

    Dave Olsen -

    the speaker are better to be unscrewed but not disconnected. You can just turn them away from the battery while replacing and proceed to step 17.

    Igor Kapitanker -

    I did this as suggested and it was much easier than disconnecting entirely

    N DesRochers -

    This video shows battery replacement without removing speakers.

    https://youtu.be/Lue6lVWhh4o

    Jerry Laufer -

    Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — solvent will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable.

    (Whether to disconnect the speakers is a judgment call, but removing them from the battery cavity is important.)

    John Hawkinson -

  9. 4JigCZafx4eN2mAJ
    4JigCZafx4eN2mAJ
    IWnleqaOXli6Vc2O

    • Levanta el extremo de la placa lógica del cable de placa de E/S para plegarlo y sacarlo del medio.

    • Para evitar dañar el cable, dobla solo en el pliegue del extremo del cable de placa de E/S.

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step is not required. See my comments in Step 8.

    Luke Schoen -

  10. n24JtNf6LvujLeSN
    n24JtNf6LvujLeSN
    GENmSfxNeXrNylBR

    • Con cuidado coloca la punta del spudger bajo el cable del altavoz derecho cerca del conector y levántalo de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    I have performed battery swap without disconnecting the speakers!

    Aleš Smokvina -

    Did that mean that you left the speakers attached to the case? If so, did that make removing the end sections of the battery very difficult? Thanks.

    iwm4 -

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step is not required. See my comments in Step 8.

    Luke Schoen -

    On mine the cable connector pulls out to the left, not upwards

    John Harland -

    Once disconnected, you will see that the speaker socket pins are horizontal. You might think the connector needs to slide into the pins, but it does not. The connecter is reattached by pressing straight down. After the connector is in place, use the flat end of the spudger to make sure the connector is fully seated.

    Steven Cutchen -

    This step should be skipped.I pulled it all off, hard to pull one off alone.

    You can skip step 10,11 go to 12, and fold it over. Same as left.

    Then go to step 17.

    yong jack -

  11. DahHOGHS6UXkDfPb
    DahHOGHS6UXkDfPb
    mjj41uwqswQ1nkxg
    OCSUnNV2HaJB1u3e

    • Con cuidado quita el cable del altavoz derecho de la caja superior.

    I have successfully replaced battery without removing the speaker cables, as proposed by the comments in the next steps.

    Furthermore, in the steps after 22, where the battery is removed from the upper case, I have easily performed with a credit card and a drop of rubbing alcohol on it and finished in several minutes. Try it!

    kem -

    Kem, please could you explain how you got the end battery sections out of the case with the speakers still attached. Still very puzzled by this!

    iwm4 -

  12. oUMOiCBTZmImIwGl

    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el altavoz derecho de la caja superior:

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 5.7 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 6.5 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 3.8 mm

    Make sure you replace these screws exactly where they came from, same with the other speak.

    Dustin Steward -

  13. CAFvyMnLlN6ubFQV
    CAFvyMnLlN6ubFQV
    RbG4WiPeifkVPjZf
    pZnrZXAjQ4iysBEL

    • Levanta el altavoz derecho del extremo de cable y sácalo de la caja.

    When replacing with the new speaker, the new piece could have some blue strips on the cable. Remove them to let the adhesive do its job and attach the cable to the surroundings to avoid having it loose.

    Victor Alcantar -

    I was wondering where I can buy a good replacement. Some users comply about the bad quality of sound after replacing the speakers. Can you suggest a link where to buy good replacement parts (possibly Italy / EU ) ?!

    Alberto Mennella -

  14. ZJJqc5UNeX1iDIRC
    ZJJqc5UNeX1iDIRC
    FlgfTpEMutJonPtr

    • Con cuidado coloca la punta del spudger bajo el cable del altavoz izquierdo cerca del conector y levántalo de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

    barak -

    Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.

    Aleš Smokvina -

    slight touch of glue secures speaker cable to MB. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB

    Macrepair SF -

    I picked up my steps back here when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13”. I used the flat part of the spudger and gently, carefully applied a fulcrum upward pressure to the base of the speaker connector to help pop it off.

    Evan Shulman -

    I, too, found it unnecessary to unplug this speaker. It was easy, and not stressful to the speaker cable, to fold the speaker upwards and rest it on the motherboard.

    Ralph Begleiter -

    When removing the left speaker as shown in the image in the photo, the left-most fixing part (protrusion) is broken. Will there be any problems using it?

    JangJaeHee -

    Ugh. I agree with Barak; why is touching the speakers in these guides? On both the 13” and 15” you can easily replace the batteries WITHOUT even vaguely touching the batteries…

    davelarose -

    Parts of this guide are used for other guides, such as replacing the top case. But also, the speakers can be damaged by solvents, so it’s not a bad idea if the method you’re using has the possibility of getting solvent on them. It’s easy enough to just remove the screws and move the speakers out of the way without disconnecting them.

    maccentric -

    Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — solvent will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable.

    That said, unplugged is not necessary, merely removing the speakers (Step 16).

    John Hawkinson -

    For a battery repair with the heat method, as indicated in other comments on prior steps, you may skip this step, just unscrew the speaker and put it away when working on the battery. For this specific left speaker - on the right during the repair - you need to be careful with the protruding bit from the frame when moving the cable. Just guide the cable above or below as needed during the repair, to prevent to damage the cable with this protruding part.

    David Obis -

  15. 4LqGrcr5WY22wZRV

    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el altavoz izquierdo de la caja superior:

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 5.7 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 6.5 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 3.8 mm

    Same note as above: Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter -

    Where can I get these 3 sizes of t5 torx screw drivers?

    greg steigleder -

    Greg, the T5 Torx screw driver is one size. The different sizes listed above are the *lengths* of the screws, not the diameter of the screw head. Hope that helps.

    Patrick G -

    My Torx screws are so locked i can not take it out. The Torx 5 screw driver slips. What can i do? Can i also get new screws later to put in?

    robertverheij -

    Hi,

    If the T5 slips you may have not the correct size ? I have done may speaker, no screw was ever that tight. All 3 screws the same problem ?

    Horst Droege -

    Where can I replace these screws?

    One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    kate Taverna -

    Did you ever find the replacement screws? If so, where…I need them also!

    David Wamsley -

    Once again.

    NO NEED NO NEED NO NEED

    davelarose -

  16. rgp1EWRLf4fha4rr
    rgp1EWRLf4fha4rr
    d5kZNfdFZpKjwxVP
    2ehHvwCFxLJAPdmv

    • Levanta la esquina del altavoz izquierdo y deslízalo alrededor de la batería para sacarlo de la carcasa superior.

    • Ten cuidado de no enganchar el cable del altavoz en el orificio del tornillo al lado de la caja.

    There’s a typo in this section.

    “Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out AROUND the battery to remove it from the upper case.”

    Patrick G -

    If I have a case assembly with battery and trackpad, the above instructions say to skip steps 18 - 44. So, how do the battery and trackpad disconnect otherwise since I need everything else to reassemble. Am I missing something?

    Brett Levine -

    after step 9 what??? i cannot see the next steps….

    kotakidisoklp -

    Réparation faite en moins de 5 minutes chrono (j’avais lu et relu le tuto et l’avais répété autant de fois “dans ma tête” le temps de la réception du haut parleur endommagé). Réparation très facile, faite en moins de 10 minutes tout compris. Vraiment bravo et merci !

    Eric -

    Why does this step exist?

    Unneeded…

    davelarose -

    Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — it will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable. (See comment on Step 14).

    John Hawkinson -

    For a battery repair with the heat method, I needed to remove the speakers, but not the connectors, just unscrew the speaker and put them away when working on the battery

    David Obis -

  17. TG2TPqEUqMmRquwq
    TG2TPqEUqMmRquwq
    Dc4eSPgWX2igUnyC

    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para sacar el conector de panel táctil de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    The trackpad cable can also be of a different type where you pull the tape on it

    Rogier van der Heide -

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you might instead see a trackpad connector that has a loose tape on it. If the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery then it is possible to skip this step. It is not necessary to pull the tape. Note that I had an A1502 MacBook Pro laptop and was replacing its A1493 battery, it had the trackpad cable going “under” the battery, so I skipped this step and was still able to successfully replace the battery.

    Luke Schoen -

  18. 4BQhFCeDhoMXZVqC
    4BQhFCeDhoMXZVqC
    sBTyFwUx5bbKAwMN

    • Levanta el cable del panel táctil de la batería para separarlo del adhesivo que lo sujeta.

    • Ten cuidado de no dañar el cable. Si no se despega fácilmente, aplica un poco de calor con un iOpener, una pistola de calor o un secador de cabello para suavizar el adhesivo e intenta nuevamente.

    • Si estás instalando un nuevo cable de panel táctil, asegúrate de doblar el cable nuevo para que coincida con la forma del cable anterior. El cable nuevo parecerá demasiado largo si no está doblado.

    On the picture above, it looks like, that the CIF cable for the keyboard, located right to the trackpad cable, should also be separated, but this is not necessary. You can leave it attached.

    anmeldung -

    What helped release the cable was to place the body of the spudger under the cable and rotate it upward as I gently pulled it down to release the cable from the adhesive. It may not have been necessary, but it did help.

    Todd S. Jones -

    I did this after reading your comment and it worked incredibly well!

    N DesRochers -

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen -

    For people having keyboard or trackpad issues:

    If you followed the disassembly photos you may have lifted the the tap on the ZIF connector in Step 18 image. Note the lifted “tape” below the thumb. This may release the ZIF Connector and cause keyboard issues. Make sure the black retaining bar is in the down position on the ZIF Connector.

    Also, check the ZIF connector in Step 19 and 20. The Black plastic retaining bar MUST be in the “up/open” position to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable.

    Donald MacTavish -

  19. lCWoVbCMWKsQFdhT
    lCWoVbCMWKsQFdhT
    uthXNlIVF3rxaYOP
    2IiN2srZxf1qyxyp

    • Si es necesario, saca la cinta que cubre el conector del cable del panel táctil.

    • Utiliza el extremo de un spudger para voltear la pestaña de retención en el conector ZIF.

    Overall, I really enjoyed this project and it was a complete success but this step is the one spot I came up short. I forgot to flip the retaining tab back down when I reassembled and I got a totally unresponsive keyboard and trackpad before I opened it back up and realized I had forgotten this tiny but crucial step.

    nathan taylor -

    I also forgot to flip the ZIF connector. Thankfully my trackpad worked after.

    Make sure to flip the ZIF connector before putting the trackpad cable back, too.

    ibash -

    I did not remove this retaining clip for fear of not getting it plugged in again then just carefully folded it back to clear battery instal

    Peter Stoll -

    This was the most challenging part of the installation. Putting this tab back, it's so fragile and difficult to put back. I thought it was going to get damaged but it worked.

    Gaetano Daidone -

    Like Peter, I just folded it back a bit and had care to keep it out of the way. I think it is much better than the risk involved with taking it out.

    All in all it found it a bit less difficult than I expected - As with all the work I have done on different Apple products: Slow and careful work and following the instructions - including all the comments - seems to be the best advice.

    Adam Griggs -

    I have a semi responsive trackpad and an unrecognized keyboard. Any suggestions?

    Daniel Lynn -

    CHECK the ZIF connector in Step 19 and 20. The Black plastic retaining bar MUST be in the “up/open” position to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable.

    Donald MacTavish -

    Daniel- remove and put back again the cable on the ZIF connector, making sure it is pushed all the way in before closing the retainer clip. May have a partially reinserted cable.

    drrobins -

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen -

    This was the most difficult part for me.In frustration, I thought I had a bad cable so I bought two new ones and still was not successful.So I skipped the whole thing and bought an external wireless keyboard which I have been using till now.Recently, my LCD screen cracked and I am about to replace it. So, I now have another opportunity to open my laptop and try fixing this step again.This time I will read users comments before attempting another go.Please if anyone have additional useful tips for this step, kindly post a comment.I should be fixing my laptop in 2 weeks.Thanks!

    Ernest Kanu -

    One thing to know about the tape that you have to remove is that it has "arms” that wrap around the cable just beyond the connector. If you bend the cable toward you you can see these. Remove/bend them so that they are pointing ‘north” and then pull the sticker.

    Michael Gorman -

    The “flip up” tab was hard to see for me but once my 7yo confirmed it was up, I slowly moved the cable into the slot using my fingers (to avoid bending/breaking anything, thanks to comments I read), staying perpendicular. Once it was clearly in, I confirmed it was fully seated with a toothpick (a gentle tool for delicate parts). If worried, take zoomed in pictures straight from above, that way you will know what it should look like when reassembling.

    Marc -

    After completing this repair and breaking the zif socket while trying to make sure this cable was re-attached properly. I believe the battery replacement can be done without doing this step. I would just carefully bend the cable out of the way when it came time to prying the portion of the battery out that sits below this cable.


    I'm taking my Macbook into Apple to see if they'll replace the touchpad and cable now since I don't feel like messing with this anymore. My screwup may just push me into buying a new M2 Macbook Air... I'm thinking subconsciously my brain tricked me into sabotaging this repair attempt so that I'd just get a new computer, lol.

    Greg Burkhardt -

    Same experience as many. I didn't read the comments or the instructions well enough here and forgot to flip up the ZIF connector. Ended up just pulling the ribbon cable out which must have damaged it. After the battery replacement when I reassemble and turned my computer back on, the trackpad and keyboard were unresponsive. I bought a replacement (used) trackpad cable from iFixit, it came a few days later, I popped it in (the correct way!) and my keyboard and trackpad were back to working. So, don't forget the ZIF connector tab!!!!

    Kelly Archer -

    READ THE COMMENTS ON THIS ONE.

    Broke the ZIF connector :-(

    Should've seen this step properly and read the comments. I was on the right path but somehow thought needed to plug. out the casing of ZIF connector too and maybe just ripped out the cable wrongly. My bad and now will see what the Mac does without the ZIF connector flipper... or may just buy the new trackpad.

    houguy -

  20. 2teLgArBhIJcbWfP
    2teLgArBhIJcbWfP
    3FKbZJNL1BowW4uU

    • Tira del cable del panel táctil y sácalo de su enchufe ZIF en la placa de control de panel táctil.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, asegúrate de que la lengüeta de retención esté hacia arriba, en la posición "desbloqueada" antes de insertar el cable en el enchufe.

    With all due respect, step # 19 and 20 pics shows the ZIF socket on the trackpad board, not the Mac logic board, I think...

    See step #17 which seems to be correct. There is an inconsistency in the guide.

    Just to be sure...

    Bart Van Dessel -

    This was the most difficult step for me. It was hard to locate the retaining tab on the ZIF connector and the trackpad cable had some adhesive on the bottom of it and it was difficult to remove from the socket. Be patient….

    Gary Bain -

    I skipped this two steps (19&20) , just bent the flat fable when taking the battery out.

    Aleš Smokvina -

    This does look the most frightening part of the process, that connector looks really flimsy. Is it ok to just bend it back and leave it connected as suggested?

    Jack Sukerman -

    This is the only step I skipped, as Gary Bain mentioned above there was adhesive which made it difficult to remove, and it’s probably the only step worth skipping.

    John Davis -

    Can you buy replacements for this trackpad control board? They dont seem to come with new trackpads.

    Rachel MacLeod -

    The ZIF retaining tab is a tiny black plastic bar. Pull the trackpad cable HORIZONTALLY out of the socket.

    Richard Johnson -

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen -

    Unfortunately, i didn’t notice that there was a retaining tab, so i damaged my ZIF Connector. I ordered a new one from amazon. I followed the procedure and did it in the “correct” way. Anyway trackpad and keyboard won’t work. Can you help me?

    Andrea -

    I removed that cable and not sure that I put it back properly. The trackpad and keyboard are not working. I might need to order a new trackpad cable and try the process with the new, Can anyone help?

    Thank you

    Faliere Dieujuste -

    I broke the tiny plastic clamp on the ZIF socket and that, to my understanding, is why the ribbon cable is not connecting properly (so neither keypad nor keyboard are connected). I wonder if I can buy a replacement somewhere for that clamp or the socket as a whole.

    Ghassen -

    Hi Ghassen, I too just broke the plastic clamp on the ZIF socket. What did you do to repair it? I’m pulling my hair out looking for a solution!

    David O'Brien -

    "straight out" in this case is away from you and horizontal, not straight up! I tugged on the cable a bit harder than I'd like to admit before realizing my mistake, although no damage seems to have occurred.

    jheiss -

    Thank you for all the comments on the direction to pull this cable. Pull horizontally toward the battery. It slips out of the connector then you can pull it vertically to free. Mine had a little bit of sticky on the cable that held it to the battery.

    Steve -

    Removing this cable took a lot more effort than I thought it should. I removed it horizontally away from the front of the laptop. I was certain to pop up the plastic retaining clip to remove, then push it down to reinstall. For whatever reason I feel like I’m not getting the cable back in all the way. After reassembly my touchpad and keyboard do not work. I’m wondering if I damaged the cable or the small board with the zif socket…

    Greg Burkhardt -

    Same. Any idea how to resolve it? Any progress on your part?

    Jose Huerta -

    Same for me. Trackpad is not working anymore. What a pity…

    Katrin Klug -

    I had to replace the cable after my keyboard and trackpad would not work after replacing the battery, lucky they are available from iFixit

    Cameron Wheatley -

  21. EK2eCTUnIEQYFDwi

    • Remueve el único tornillo Torx T5 de 3.7 mm que sujeta la placa de batería a la caja superior.

    If lost where could I find a replacement for this screw?

    Justin -

    Yes, where could I find a replacement for this screw?

    Ryan Borchert -

    Before continuing, draw around the outside of the existing battery with a pencil to make a template ready for when installing the new battery. It means when you get there, the new battery can be installed perfectly in place and you will not have space problems when trying to reinstall the speakers during reassembly.

    Dan -

    when installing new battery it is better to start with this step and secure the battery control board first with the screw. This is needed to align the battery plug with the jack on the mother board, then glue the rest of the battery back.

    Igor Kapitanker -

    FYI this was a T4 on my system

    anonymous 5375 -

    When aligning the placement of the battery, on my second attempt, I used a sim card removal pin (a paper clip would suffice) to align the battery board hole with the screw hole underneath. Unfortunately on my first attempt I inadvertently stripped the threads a little. Luckily there was just enough threads to hold

    Charles Meitin -

  22. nsUUx62xleacGUtM

    • El removedor líquido de adhesivo que viene en tu kit puede afectar la capa antireflectante en la pantalla de tu MacBook Pro.

    • Para proteger tu pantalla, coloca una hoja de folio de aluminio entre la pantalla y el teclado y déjalo ahí mientras trabajas.

    I was able to remove the batteries using the plastic ifixit card only, it requires you to work it back and forth but it can be done. However, for a few bucks I would suggest the heating pad. I was able to reuse my batteries (although not suggested).

    Dustin Steward -

    This should have been Step 1.

    Richard Johnson -

    I too managed with just heat (iOpener that had come with parts for another repair) and the plastic card. I decided to try with just heat because of concern about putting any fluid into the computer case. (There was a comment by someone about damaging a trackpad). Using the card and heat, I found it helped to start by inserting and advancing a pointed end of the card rather than an entire long-edge of the card. Then advancing the card, while also moving it in a back-and-forth motion, to essentially “cut through” the glue strips. One other point, that helped for later positioning the new battery so the the speakers fit without issue, was that with a sharp pencil I traced the outer edge of the old battery on the inside of the case. This left a nice aid for worry-free placement of the new battery.

    Jonathan Bradley -

    I used heat from a hair dryer to detach the adhesive. The bottom of the touch pad seems to be made from plastic so I didn’t want to use any hard solvents (acetone) to risk permanent damage to the track pad.

    Olivier Biot -

    I also used the hair drier and the cheap plastic spackling 2” knife and old credit card. No solvents. Once you detach the section of the battery you can use piece of the blue plastic that covers adhesive strips of on the new battery to prevent detached sections from sticking back .

    Igor Kapitanker -

  23. wYnpApcq5cVHkOpW
    wYnpApcq5cVHkOpW
    NcIOLahGlimKNjHD

    • Si tienes un kit de batería iFixit con removedor líquido de adhesivo, es hora de prepararlo.

    • Alternativamente, si estás utilizando el método iOpener caliente, salta los siguientes tres pasos.

    • El removedor de adhesivo de iFixit contiene acetona, un irritante leve de la piel y ojos.

    • Usa protección para ojos al manejar y aplicar el removedor de adhesivo. (La protección para ojos está incluida en tu kit)

    • No uses lentes de contacto sin protección de ojos.

    • Los guantes protectores están también incluidos en tu kit. Si te preocupa la irritación de la piel, ponte los guantes ahora.

    I used “isopropyl alcohol” instead of “acetone” and it dissolved the glue under the battery.

    I already had some “isopropyl alcohol” that I bought to make my own hand sanitizer.

    Luke Schoen -

    FYI, the adhesive remover is definitely acetone which will dissolve the gloves

    Michael Gorman -

  24. ZFKm4BycNJDuDFyZ
    ZFKm4BycNJDuDFyZ
    BBPmdtoJKFu5PjUr
    MWVpmIvuCwnECVJF

    • Abre tu contenedor de removedor de adhesivo.

    • Llena la jeringa incluida en tu kit con una pequeña cantidad (aproximadamente 1-2 milímetros) de removedor de adhesivo.

    • Es mejor que llenes la jeringa con no más de 1-2 milímetros de adhesivo a la vez para evitar que se aplique accidentalmente demasiado.

    • Vuelve a llenar tu jeringa cuando sea necesario a través del resto del procedimiento.

    just acetone (manicure remover) is ok.

    Jimmy Jeong -

    New kits come with different bottle than picutred. all clear with clear notch to cut on tip.

    Josh Hornby -

    The kit that I got had a clear bottle with a black top - the cover just unscrews, and the tip underneath already has a hole in it.

    Owen Edwards -

    The bottle you have to cut spills easily. Used the card to apply. Still a bit messy.

    adbro94@yahoo.no -

  25. 4UHm1xTpygOUiton

    • Aplica una pequeña cantidad de removedor de adhesivo (aproximadamente 1 ml) de forma pareja bajo el borde de la batería que se encuentra en el extremo derecho.

    • No necesitas usar mucho. La pequeña botella contiene más del doble de cantidad de solvente necesario para remover todas las baterías.

    • Espera 2-3 minutos para que el removedor líquido de adhesivo penetre por debajo de la batería para proceder con el próximo paso.

    I just poured some “isopropyl alcohol” into a bowl, then cut a piece of plastic (since it bends easily) from some packaging, and then dipped the end of it in the bowl to coat it in the alcohol, then repeated the following process progressively every minute or so: I’d push it under each corner of the battery to apply the alcohol, then wait a while for it to penetrate the glue, and then used a combination of a “plastic card” (i.e. old credit card) the “spludger” tool to slowly lift the battery from the glue.

    Important note: I was removing an old battery that wouldn’t hold charge anymore, so I didn’t care about squishing it a bit with the '“spludger” (as long as I didn’t puncture it and cause battery fluid to leak!)

    Luke Schoen -

    Before continuing, draw around the outside of the existing battery with a pencil to make a template ready for when installing the new battery. It means when you get there, the new battery can be installed perfectly in place and you will not have space problems when trying to reinstall the speakers during reassembly. Things get snug and this tip helped me a lot.

    Dan -

    My battery was so swollen that it only required a bit of heat and card action to take it out.

    Marc -

  26. Ey52lDUCkdWcuZVQ
    Ey52lDUCkdWcuZVQ
    ChS5gxrwCXW2W46K

    • Si no tienes removedor líquido de adhesivo, usarás un iOpener caliente y ablanda una sección del adhesivo que sujeta la batería a la caja trasera, y luego levanta en ese punto.

    • Usa el iOpener caliente para cubrir la mitad de las dos baterías en el extremo derecho.

    • Luego de alrededor de un minuto, vuelve a calentar el iOpener y muévelo para que cubra la otra mitad de las dos baterías en el extremo derecho.

    I just aimed a hairdryer at the relevant part of the battery for a short while and felt it getting warmer (not the other circuitry), and made sure it was an appropriate distance so it wouldn’t exceed 100 degrees celsius (which is dangerous).

    Luke Schoen -

  27. K1GfBCNfIMDKapE2
    K1GfBCNfIMDKapE2
    LIeSErpiKrDY3LJs
    VfL1ik1NfBwUZJYb

    • Empuja una tarjeta de plástico entre la celda de la batería del extremo derecho y la caja superior, cortando el adhesivo entre los dos.

    • Durante este procedimiento, ten cuidado de no dañar cualquiera de las celdas de la batería con tus herramientas. Una batería de ion de litio podría perder sustancias químicas y/o prenderse fuego. Usa solamente herramientas de plástico para hacer palanca.

    • Cuando utilices el método de iOpener caliente, si encuentras resistencia significativa para hacer palanca deténte y usa el iOpener para volver a calentar la sección en la que estás trabajando.

    I suggest taping the batteries together on the top, this will keep them intact while you work the card back and forth. If you are very careful during these steps you can reuse your batter but make sure to inspect it Very well. If there is any damage whatsoever do not run the risk of leaking fluid to the rest of your computer.

    Dustin Steward -

    Could I suggest that the plastic card be filed at the business edge like a chisel to make it easier to slide under the battery breaking the glue seal. I did it to mine and made it just that bit easier to break that glue seal. I use the heat method. Otherwise it worked well.

    Ray Miller -

    With the help of some acetone a little syringe and a credit card, I found the whole battery removal part to be easier than I expected.

    Adam Griggs -

    I did not have a iFixIt kit (they were sold out). I used a hot/cold therapy pack instead of an iOpener, but found I didn’t need it. What worked really well for me was to gently work an old credit card in underneath, then slide a long wedge-shaped spudger between the credit card and battery cell and pry gently up. Not to much to avoid bending the cell, but working back and forth between wedging up with the spudger and shifting the credit card further in worked really well.

    Rob Gorbet -

  28. 2MCUeqWlTbl1VcxN
    2MCUeqWlTbl1VcxN
    FOSDPD4BQwfAeDAC
    CYvDHimwXkgN6nk2

    • Repite este procedimiento con la celda de batería adyacente:

    • Aplica una cantidad pequeña (alrededor de 1 ml) de removedor líquido de adhesivo debajo de la celda de batería, y espera 2-3 minutos para que penetre y ablande el adhesivo.

    • Alternativamente, vuelve a calentar esta sección con su iOpener si es necesario.

    • Empuja una tarjeta de plástico alrededor de una pulgada entre la batería y la caja superior y lentamente levanta la celda para separarla de todo el adhesivo.

  29. IQ5DDJMtDQEtMKeS
    IQ5DDJMtDQEtMKeS
    OvanriKv2t6TgvBO
    QuBgTUpPjL2YUsPt

    • Deja temporalmente tu tarjeta de plástico debajo de las dos baterías del extremo derecho para prevenir que se vuelvan a adherir a la caja superior.

    • Si estás utilizando un iOpener, vuelve a calentar y aplicarlo, esta vez en las baterías del extremo izquierdo.

    • Insertar traducción aquíNuevamente, deja el iOpener en cada posición durante un minuto, volviendo a calentar entremedio, para calentar cada mitad de las celdas de batería del extremo izquierdo.

  30. GYjw3XlBjOOhPRWG
    GYjw3XlBjOOhPRWG
    SXXDZkDLDxNmIb6E
    NKxvkjPaAIBRtG3H

    • Repite el procedimiento de arriba para separar las dos celdas de batería del extremo izquierdo de la caja superior.

    • Recuerda de aplicar una pequeña cantidad (alrededor de 1 ml) de removedor líquido de adhesivo y espera 2-3 minutos para que penetre y ablande el adhesivo.

    • Usa una segunda tarjeta de plástico para separar las dos celdas de batería del extremo izquierdo de la caja superior.

    The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).

    Faslane -

  31. RktisKgYqLbgaGaX
    RktisKgYqLbgaGaX
    K5XNpZ4nvKZwxxyS
    24siABbq3mJfgaWt

    • Continúa y repite el procedimiento de levantar.

    • Inserta la tarjeta de plástico entre la segunda batería del extremo izquierdo y la caja superior para cortar el adhesivo que une a los dos y levanta la celda de la caja.

    Again, The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).

    Faslane -

  32. keIcTpWCBHK5JfvW
    keIcTpWCBHK5JfvW
    xnEZM44NV4qoAhK2
    FrvS2hIAOaEFeYHh

    • Deja la segunda tarjeta en la esquina entre las dos baterías izquierdas.

    • Si usas un iOpener, vuelve a calentarlo y aplicarlo en las celdas de la batería central.

    • Como antes, deja el iOpener en cada posición durante un minuto, volviendo a calentar entremedio, para calentar cada mitad de las celdas de batería del centro.

    • En los siguientes pasos, puedes usar una tercera tarjeta o la tarjeta de la esquina derecha. El adhesivo de la esquina derecha deberá estar suficientemente seco o frío para que las celdas puedan ser fácilmente levantadas otra vez cuando sea necesario.

  33. vhdVcXLDbjYVlleg
    vhdVcXLDbjYVlleg
    CALyPUNEtNBTm4VI
    tdDOV5tVSNsjTOYH

    • Si utilizas removedor líquido de adhesivo, aplica unas pocas gotas debajo de cada una de las dos celdas finales del centro.

    • Podría ayudar si elevas un lado de tu MacBook Pro unas pulgadas para que el removedor de adhesivo fluya en la dirección correcta, por debajo de las celdas de batería. Puedes usar un libro robusto o bloque de espuma para apoyar un lado de tu MacBook Pro mientras trabajas.

    • Espera 2-3 minutos para que le removedor de adhesivo penetre antes de continuar.

    • Con cuidado dobla las celdas del extremo derecho fuera del camino e inserta una tarje ta de plástica debajo de la celda del centro derecho.

    • Empuja la tarjeta alrededor de la mitad de su largo para cortar el adhesivo que sujeta la celda de batería a la caja.

    • Asegúrate de evitar la placa de control del panel táctil. Apunta la tarjeta arriba hacia la placa lógica donde se encuentra el adhesivo.

    • Deja la tarjeta allí para evitar que el adhesivo vuelva a sellarse.

    I think this part killed my trackpad…. I think it should be mentioned that adhesive remover can get into the trackpad cover plate.

    Gary Yuen -

    I did not bend my batteries nearly this much, it allowed me to reuse them but it takes patiences to get them free.

    Dustin Steward -

    Take a look at the trackpad replacement guide to get a sense of where the adhesive is:

    Reemplazo del panel táctil del MacBook Pro 13" Pantalla Retina comienzos de 2015

    ibash -

    To prevent re-adhering, I placed a bit of Scotch tape over the original adhesive locations.

    Richard Doss -

  34. 4GyJZdKYXYdLnLQB
    4GyJZdKYXYdLnLQB
    xGvYPhj2iXyDPPfT
    o2PReSFVrnOcGHpM

    • Repite el mismo procedimiento para las dos últimas celdas de batería restantes.

    • Manteniendo las celdas de baterías externas fuera del camino, inserta la tarjeta de plástico hasta la mitad por debajo de la celda de batería del centro izquierdo evitando la placa de panel táctil.

  35. EpqNmfdV2pePy6JW
    EpqNmfdV2pePy6JW
    mUKQinAHsW1ZG4nI

    • Vuelve a la tarjeta debajo de la celda del centro derecho y dóblala para separar la batería completa de la caja superior.

    • En este punto, tendrías que haber cortado todo el adhesivo que sujeta la batería a la caja superior y debería salir fácilmente.

    • Si no sale fácilmente, tendrías que volver a calentar el iOpener y aplicarlo en las áreas atascadas y luego continuar cuidadosamente cortando el adhesivo con las tarjetas plásticas.

    I found this to be more difficult than the edge sections. I had to reapply a few times the adhesive removal from both sides of the center sections before I was able to pry the battery. Take time and use the adhesive removal several times.

    Maxim Bulat -

    I dipped the edge of a stiff credit card (actually health card lol) into 91% isopropyl alcohol and slid that in from the sides..keep pressure while the alcohol works it’s way thru the adhesive..just be careful when it finally lets go..

    Adam -

    Thanks to Adam’s suggestion about sharpening the plastic card and using alcohol plus the heat gun I easily got to this point. Then I re attached the speakers before dry fitting the new battery.

    Peter Stoll -

    While you have the battery off, consider removing the T3 screws that hold the metal plate over the trackpad. That makes it much easier (and less dangerous for the trackpad) to clean the adhesive off. And while you have that off, consider removing the twelve T5 screws holding in the trackpad and cleaning it up a bit around the edges, and the edges of the case. Because that’s a slot, stuff gets in there. I was surprised how dirty mine was. Trackpad instructions here: Reemplazo del panel táctil del MacBook Pro 13" Pantalla Retina comienzos de 2015

    Rob Gorbet -

    At the last step reassembly there was a 1-2 mm gap between the cover and the body. Upon inspection I found that one of the new battery’s plastic bar had to be gently nudged under the aluminum « post ». At the ends of the plastic U shape, look for tiny flat protrusions, right next to the rubber bumpers, those should go under a recess near the screw posts (one can be seen on the left of the thumb on the image above).

    Marc -

  36. WCWRYyhHSsctPwT2
    WCWRYyhHSsctPwT2
    XHEVNGBvBGIfnPgy

    • Remueve la batería.

    • Antes de instalar una batería nueva, remueve todo el adhesivo viejo de la caja de la MacBook Pro.

    • Con un poco de suerte, puedes lentamente levantar cada tira de adhesivo con tus dedos.

    • De lo contrario, empapa cada sección de adhesivo con un poco de removedor de adhesivo durante 2-3 minutos y luego raspa y sácalo con un pico de apertura o cualquiera de las herramientas en tu kit. Esto podría ser mucho trabajo, así que ten paciencia.

    • Limpia cualquier resto de removedor de adhesivo y dale a tu MacBook Pro durante unos pocos minutos para que se seque al aire.

    • La batería de reemplazo incluida en tu kit de iFixit viene con un adhesivo pre-instalado. Prueba el ajuste y la alineación de la batería con cuidado antes de quitar la capa que cubre el adhesivo y luego presiona cada celda firmemente en su lugar. Si hay capas y recubrimientos adicionales que no estaban en la batería original, remuévelos al final.

    • Calibra tu batería nueva. Cárgala hasta el 100% y luego sigue cargándola durante al menos 2 horas más. Luego, desenchúfala y úsala normalmente para drenar la batería. Cuando veas la advertencia de batería baja, guarda tu trabajo y mantén tu laptop encendida hasta que se duerma. Espera al menos 5 horas, luego cárgala de forma ininterrumpida hasta 100%.

    • Si notas alguna conducta o problema inusual luego de instalar tu batería nueva, podrías necesitar restablecer el SMC de tu MacBook Pro.

    Remember that the speakers fit on either side of the battery. When placing the new battery, make sure to leave enough space for them.

    Cesario Uy -

    I wish they had put your comment in the guide itself. It took me a while to realize that the speaker won’t go in because the battery was off a bit towards the side of the computer. Fortunately the adhesive was not as strong as the original.

    Yulun Hsieh -

    good point, if you tuck the battery cell you can also firm up the speakers and then install the cell, just a tiny bit tricky since you have to tuck it under the speaker a bit.

    Faslane -

    Does anyone meet the problem that there is a slightly misalignment for the new battery?

    Lei Xu -

    Yes. I did encounter the same issue. Need to stretch a little to force it in.

    ramakrishnr -

    Yes, I had to adjust tiny guys at both ends when I was putting back the speakers.

    yon2maru -

    Why do we need to replace the battery for this? Can’t we put back the original one in place after we replaced the trackpad? If sohow to glue the original battery back?

    benjamin parpillon -

    There’s a fairly high risk of damage to the battery—they are not designed to be serviced or removed. Reinstalling the old battery may put your laptop at risk, and can even be a fire hazard.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    yeah DEFINITELY do NOT put the old battery in. Chances are it’s damaged and all bent up and you definitely do not want this back in a working machine. Spend the money and get a new replacement or you’ll regret it.

    Faslane -

    Merci beaucoup ! Très bien expliqué parfait !

    Valerie -

    My batteries were swollen pushing out on the keyboard and back of the case. The battery replacement was in my mind rather simple given the instructions. It was about taking time and logically laying removed items with screws. The battery removal was a little more completed…my approach was to put the opened case with batteries only exposed to the direct sunlight for 45 or so minutes. So taking time with plastic tools provided starting in the corner of the outermost batteries and working toward the center two was key. I put waxed paper between the batteries and the case to prevent reattachment. Removal from start to finish was about 20 minutes working slowly feeling and looking for the release of adhesive. I was concerned about putting liquid directly on the metal parts so I used acetone on a rag to clean remaining adhesive. Alignment of the batteries and circuit board was key to the installation. “Dry fit the batteries and board to see how they will go in. Then begin in the middle outward.

    Kevin -

    my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?

    thanks

    Bob

    bob bulliard -

    I found mineral turpentine on a piece of cloth removed the remaining glue without making too much of a mess.

    Ray Miller -

    My new battery now shows zero cycles but the age is still the original 4.5 years.

    My battery lasted to 730 cycles 4.5 years and 80% health, it was time to change it out as the battery was not lasting as long as I would like.

    Does resetting the SMC also reset the computer battery age?

    Ray Miller -

    It doesn't reset the ago, no.

    Faslane -

    my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?

    thanks

    Bob

    bob bulliard -

    I had bulging both on the top and bottom of the case. It all went away with the new batteries and everything fit perfectly just like brand new when I was all done. So the case bulging was not permanent.

    jklarr -

    Friendly warning: Make sure the adhesive remover evaporates before connecting the new battery!

    I successfully changed the battery in my 2015 MacBook Pro, everything powered on just fine, then I put it in my neoprene sleeve. The next morning I noticed some of the adhesive remover on my keyboard. I wiped it off, powered it on and then it suddenly shut down. After a couple more tries I could no longer get it to power on. It was dead. Took it to a repair shop and they concluded it was most likely liquid damage to the logic board. Total bummer. I have sense learned that the adhesive remover itself is not conductive, but it can dissolve something like glue, and then become conductive. The adhesive remover also cools as it evaporates which attracts moisture. So please make sure your adhesive remover evaporates completely before connecting your new battery.

    Jonathan Flower -

    I did the SMC reset but still nothing. Is not charging at all.

    nasho007 -

    Tips for alignment:

    1. Do not remove the plastic covering the adhesive and then try to align the battery. Leave the plastic on and remove one at a time after the battery is aligned.

    2. Use masking tape to hold the battery cells together while aligning, otherwise they flop around a lot.

    3. Put your speakers next to the battery cells (before removing plastic on adhesive) to ensure you’re leaving enough room.

    4. Make sure your battery connector is well aligned too.

    ibash -

    I’d recommend once new battery is placed and NOT stuck down, to connect the power and charger to make sure it charges up. I got a bad “new” battery and had to do a second removal and replace….ugh.

    Faslane -

    This was a great tip. I just put the replacement battery in slightly and connected it to the battery connector, then opened the laptop (with the laptop upside down since I didn’t bother putting the bottom cover back on) and plugged in the power cable, then waited for it to load until it showed the battery power level, and then checked that when I disconnected the power cable that the laptop still stayed on using the new battery

    Luke Schoen -

    I actually also, installed the speakers back before adhering new battery down, it was a pretty tight fit. Also one speaker on each side has a smaller screw than the other 2 so be aware to get them back in the correct spot. I also had one of the long screws that wouldn’t fit in the spot so I switched them, so you might be careful of that too…not sure why but it wouldn’t thread in….weird.

    Faslane -

    In fact I think each of the three speaker screws are of a different length.

    Adam Griggs -

    one more thing, if you install the speakers first (totally do-able) you’ll take off the adhesive on the outer most cell on each side first and you’ll approach it from the top and tuck it under the very edge of speaker…after that’s done press down when happy with alignment.

    Faslane -

    In conjuction with the owner of the MacBook, we decided not to stick the new battery down, specially because it is used 99% of the time on a stand and connected to a monitor. Will repost if this seems to give any issue.

    Adam Griggs -

    Thanks for this excellent kit and the detailed instruction guide!

    Michael Lorenz -

    Once the battery is removed and you want to glue the new one, make sure that you leave enough room for the speakers. Honestly the battery change was far easier that what I thought, I think everyone is capable of doing it. Great tutorial by the way, thank you for the work !

    Thomas Alliot -

    I am still very puzzled by the instructions to remove the speakers! Is it necessary to remove them both or not? Sorry if I’m being a bit dense!

    iwm4 -

    I can’t say for sure it’s absolutely necessary, but I’m looking inside one right now and, from a practical standpoint, the speakers would make it extremely difficult to work around. It would be much harder to get the glue dissolver under the ends of the battery and to pry underneath them to lift them. Removing the speakers is rather simple, so just do it.

    Mike Rosenberg -

    Hi. After a couple of months installed the new battery is loose, seems like is “unglued”… Does anybody have an idea what could I use to replace the glue?

    Thanks!

    Gustavo Lo Valvo -

    Hi there, I was so surprised at how delicate everything seemed, never attempted anything like it before! My old battery would hold any charge at all and had swollen so much it warped the casing a little. After replacing the battery my mac turns on but still doesn’t hold any charge. I reset the SMC but it hasn’t worked, not sure what to do next, any advise?

    Emma Read -

    To make it clear: Really check if battery plug and socket fit before you feel comfortable to press down the cells on the glue. I had to tear the connector pretty much on one side.

    Daniel Brehm -

    I would recommend doing the next step where you take the cover off of the trackpad before you install the battery. I did and found a bunch of the adhesive remover (there is nearly zero space between the cover plate and touchpad, meaning the remover/acetone easily seeps in there, but air does not get in so the acetone remains. Soft compressed air also works well to dry the remover. Ok, to be cautious, probably steps 37-40. Being able to inspect/get some air in there may save you.

    Michael Gorman -

    I just finished the battery replacement. I did not have to remove either of the speakers. I tried using the iOpener (and a hair dryer) but it just wasn’t hot enough. It’s like the glue was super-cured from the heat of the computer. I put a layer of foil and a layer of paper towel before I tried using the acetone. I found that just a tiny amount did the trick after a couple of minutes to soak in. As i pried up the edge I added a couple more drops and was able to free the old battery. The replacement fit perfectly. The battery is calibrating now.

    Will -

    Replaced the battery but now every time I power her on, she immediately shuts off again. What would be the cause of this?

    Alfie Akers -

    Eine super Anleitung. Damit war der Akkutausch problemlos möglich und hat 70 Minuten gedauert (bei langsamer/sorgfältiger Arbeit).

    Um Beschädigungen durch den Klebstoffentferner zu vermeiden, habe ich 3 alte Plastik- Scheckkarten langsam und vorsichtig unter die alten Akkus geschoben und so die Klebeverbindung gelöst (1 x von links, 1 x von rechts und 1 x mittig). Dann ließ sich das gesamte Paket herausziehen. Das alte Akkupaket habe ich wie ein rohes Ei behandelt, da es sehr prall aufgebläht und somit absolut brandgefährlich war. Es bereitet mir noch immer ein mulmiges Gefühl, eine solche Brandbombe auf meinem Schreibtisch gehabt zu haben.

    Der Ersatzakku passte perfekt ins Gehäuse, nachdem ich alle Klebestreifen-Reste entfernt hatte.

    Mit dieser Anleitung kann nahezu jeder den Austausch vornehmen - allerdings: genügend Zeit und Ruhe einplanen! Alle entfernten Schrauben unbedingt genau positioniert lagern. Dann geht’s im Zusammenbau wirklich flott.

    Mein MacBook Pro läuft nun wieder problemlos.

    Johannes Martin -

    MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Early 2015)

    Keyboard and trackpad were unresponsive after new batter install. As instructed in step 19 I reset both connections. Still no battery or keyboard. Ordered new trackpad cable. Still no working keyboard /trackpad. In an attempt to unseat reseat everything I then did the keyboard cable but no go. Second time I did keyboard the ZIF socket retainer popped loose. Tried to seat cable as carefully as possible and then covered with electrical tape.

    I should mention that keyboard backlight, power button function properly. Will re-run tests, resets, etc.

    Is there any way to fix the keyboard ZIF socket and/or remediate this?

    kevin -

    I replaced the battery and it seemed to run good. Now every time I restart it shows the apple logo and then goes black again. If I push the power button for the whole boot up process it starts to work but powers down soon after. The same is the case when I reinstall the old battery and when I start up only with the charger and no battery. Any thoughts?

    johanneshasselbach -

    In the few battery replacements I’ve done, in addition to making sure the battery connector is aligned properly the single screw needs to be aligned to start with. I’ve found that the rubber feet tend to be too high (the 2 in the middle of the computer). I believe it’s more the long tail on the underside of the rubber foot that prevents the bottom case from seating properly. As well the plastic around the other 2 feet (near the front of the computer) need to be flexed somewhat to help with bottom case alignment and seating…

    themacdoctor -

    I skipped the steps using the liquid glue solver, and therefore also left out the removal of additional parts, so made it quite “simple” at the end. I was going through steps 1-7, 17&18, 21, and then from 26 onwards to the end. For 26, I used the sun to heat up the old batteries, after it it was quite easy to remove them with a creditcard. Thanks for all the details!

    TTony5 -

    Hat 3 Tage funktioniert 🙄 Nun Startet er nicht mehr

    habe gemäß der Anleitung den Akku gewechselt, hat alles super easy geklappt.

    Werkzeug und Akku bei ifixit bestellt.

    Das MacBook hat danach 3 Tage funktioniert, hat geladen, entladen alles Prima.

    Dann lief er bis der Akku Leer war und seit dem startet das Gerät nicht mehr.

    Auch ein SMC oder NVRAM Reset helfen nicht.

    Das Ladesymbol am Ladekabel leuchtet, aber auch nach einer Nacht immernoch nicht grün.

    Wenn ich die besagten Tastenkombinationen drücke, ist beim SMC Reset zu erkennen das die Ladeleuchte danach für ca. 2 Sekunden grün wird.

    Hat jemand eine Idee ?

    Grillke -

    This was a piece of cake, thanks to all the comments, and to my 7yo who taped and color-coded of all the screws on a sheet! I used very little heat probably because the batteries were very swollen. I used the acetone (sold with the kit) only to remove the glue.

    Marc -

    I used alcohol prep pad with 70% alcohol to remove old battery adhesive from the laptop.

    Igor Kapitanker -

    If you need to transfer the rubber spacers to the plastic frame of the new battery (because you got a cheap one that didn't come with any), take note that they come in 2 slightly different heights.

    The shorter ones go towards the front edge, the higher ones to the center of the MacBook.

    You can remove them by pushing them through from the bottom of the old frame with your screwdriver. Getting them into the new battery frame requires some fiddling. Try to push them in from the top while trying to get the wide part through the hole with a toothpick.

    Markus -

    Everything seemed to go very well, except my keyboard doesnt work now. Track pad does. Any thoughts or suggestions? HELP!

    darrylsj2 -

    Same problem

    Vaso -

Conclusión

Compara tu nueva parte de reemplazo con la parte original—quizás necesites transferir componentes remanentes o remover soportes adhesivos de la parte nueva antes de instalarla. Por ejemplo, algunas baterías de repuesto pueden tener pequeñas puntas de goma en las 4 esquinas del marco central que deberás cortar suavemente para que la batería se asiente correctamente.

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

Lleva tu basura electrónica a un [E-Waste|R2 o un reciclador certificado por e-Stewards|new_window=true]].

¿La reparación no salió según lo planeado? Prueba con algunas soluciones de problemas básicos o busca en nuestro Foro de respuestas para obtener ayuda.

Autor

Andrew Optimus Goldheart

Miembro Desde 17/10/09

494159 Reputación

148 comentarios

is it possible to use MBP early 2015's battery on a late 2013 model?

gianluca pertosa -

No, they're different parts.

fastasleep -

I wonder the same.

Amazon https://www.amazon.de/EGOWAY-A1493-A1582... claims to work for

Compatible with Laptop Models: Mac Book Pro 11.1 13" Retina A1502 ME864xx/A / ME865xx/A/ ME866xx/A - (Late 2013 Version) Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.4 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.6 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i7" 2.8 MGX72xx/A / MGX82xx/A / MGX92xx/A - (Mid 2014 Version) Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.4 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.6 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i7" 2.8 Compatible with Laptop Models: Mac Book Pro 12.1 13" Retina A1502 MF839xx/A / MF840xx/A/ MF841xx/A/ MF843xx/A - (Early 2015 Version) Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.7 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.9 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i7" 3.1

Martin -

Thanks to this guide I saved my broken MacBook Pro from a coffee spill that killed the battery. It cost me about 30% compared to what it would have cost to have the battery changed at an Apple authorized repair center. It wasn't easy to do, but that just made it all the more satisfying.

One comment: the new battery pack I bought came attached to a thin film which had to be removed. I unfortunately tore off some of the strips of glue attached to the back of the battery cells, before getting the hang of it. No big deal. But if you have to do the same thing: peel slowly.

Fredrik -

After i replace the battery, the new battery is outofsync with osx battery indicator. When the indicator hit the 30% mark the macbook just shutdown completly. How do i syncroniz the new battery with osx?

The tutorial i saw only, tell you to fully charged the battery and let it depleet until the warning message pop up that your battery is low and your mac go into sleep mod. Problem my mac cant go into sleep mod because it thinks that it has 30% left of juice.

Is there any method to change the sleep setting or to force a recalibration?

enis alijagic -

I would download an application called coconut battery from here: http://www.coconut-flavour.com/coconutba...

This will indicate your battery's current health (I am not sure how accurate it is or how it measures the milliamps/hour) which might help you determine when you need to recharge it. I don't know what else you could do but I'd check the battery's health before anything since it might be causing the problem if it is faulty.

Alex Someone -

You can try resetting the SMC controller. I had the issue of run away fans and no battery detected, but after a quick reset of the SMC all working correctly.

The process is to turn of the MacBook completely, press and hold: SHIFT, CTRL, ALT and POWER for three-five seconds, then just reboot and see if that helps.

Works for lots of minor issues with clock, sleeping and battery issues.

Jim Whitehead -

Brilliant guide, worked a treat.

Was tricky to remove the battery even with iOpener but carefully persevered. Took around 1hr 15 in total.

Thanks so much, this saved my girlfriend a lot of money!

Ben Saunders -

How strong is the adhesive on the iFixit replacement battery, compared to the Apple OEM adhesive? Are we looking at a similar painful extraction process if/when we pull the replacement battery?

For that matter, is an Apple-esque strong adhesive actually necessary in this application? Double-sided tape is usually weaker; it might be a little thinner than the adhesive layer, and certainly far more user serviceable. Would tape be sufficient to hold the battery in place? Once you've got the bottom case screwed back on, the battery is immobilized anyway.

adlerpe -

I really want to know the answer to this one

frugalpov -

It's still going to be fairly painful to remove. The battery needs to be very well secured—you don't want a soft-shell lithium ion battery coming loose and moving around inside the laptop. Even a little bit of movement could be dangerous.

Jeff Suovanen -

Saved me fortune. I was using the laptop for more than year as a desktop. The new battery helped me bring the macbook back to life.

Dipak Patil -

Hi Dipak,

Are you from India? I try to Oder the Mac battery but the product can’t be shipped to India. Is there any other website that I can order the battery?

Tsering Dhondup -

Thanks for the guide! It helped me to save my MacBook from a coffee spill.

Pan Fantomas -

Apple Canada quoted me ~300$ for battery + keyboard replacement though acknowledged that the battery had died prematurely (1.5 years since the date of purchase). When I opened the case two out of six sections were swollen. I ordered from ifixit their battery and the tools and with rate conversion + delivery to the border + taxes at the border it came to 180$. After ~2 hours I have 100% healthy battery installed in my macbook pro and it saved me 120$.

Maxim Bulat -

This kit is a lifesaver. Apple was going to charge me over $800 to repair my battery because it required “more labor” due to the retina display. It took my husband less than an hour to completely replace my battery with this kit.

Kaitlin Pruitt -

Totally doable, took about 15 minutes to unscrew screws and carefully unplug cables. The only time consuming part was the 2-3 minute solvent and wait for each of the 6 cells of the pack. I was intimidate by the difficulty rating but it’s not that bad. Local Apple certified repair shop wanted $350.

Andrew Lamoureux -

It was a lot easier than I thought. I used a wheat cushion we had at home to remove the battery and it took less than ten minutes to remove the old battery.

Peter Olsson -

Actually did this in a different way. Easy 10 minute job ! get a 50mm so called "Japanese putty knife" which usually comes is a set of 3-4 with various widths. Cost about 3 euro and available at any paint shop. They are basically thin METAL versions of the Ifixit plastic card. BUT it can be used differently. Rub the back end over som 80 grit sandpaper to make it sharp. Not too sharp, more like a blunt knife. Now get your girlfriends (or boyfriends :-) ) hair dryer and heat the metal up a bit. Again, not too hot. Then insert it under the first battery and apply some pressure while wiggling it around a bit. The warm tip will easily cut through the glue. Repeat the heating- cutting cycle a few times until all cells are removed. It took me all of 10 minutes to do. I needed to replace te keyboard and I could actually still re-use the battery pack ! Enjoy

Eric Vuurman -

Good method, just make sure you don’t pierce the battery cells.

Charlie Nancarrow -

I have repaired many MBP’s in the past. After fixing this one, my keyboard no longer works. I re-read the steps to ensure I was not missing a keyboard connection anywhere but none was to be found. Trackpad works great and there isn’t a single drop of adhesive liquid that was over used or pour over onto. Any ideas?

mrrobertbuss -

Try replacing the trackpad cable (Step 18), which also connects the keyboard.

Katherine Williams -

Thank you very much.

I order this kit and got it deliver to Colombia (South America). Even with shipping and taxes, it cost me less than half of what an Apple Authorised Service Provider was charging me.

Instructions are clear and complete.

Just do it with patience and all will be fine.

Federico Jaramillo Martínez -

Everything is working perfectly, very detailed steps, perfect explanations! Thank you for this beautiful guide, it was such a pleasure to complete each step!

Bogdan Cateriniuc -

Just completed this. Was much easier and quicker than I thought. Apple wanted 700 dollars to “fix” coffee spilled on my laptop. Couldn’t just replace the battery, had to do this and that and blah blah blah for 700 dollars. Ran a diagnostics test and noticed only my battery was kaput. Bought the kit here through iFixit and this was my first computer job, ever. Not bad at all and typing on that very computer as we speak. Thanks for the awesome kit and for this awesome guide!

b_rg_r -

@b_rg_r Congrats! Be sure to look over the logic board carefully if you haven’t done so yet—any lingering spills or corrosion can be cleaned with a soft toothbrush and >90% isopropyl alcohol. More detailed instructions are here. Liquid damage can be tricky and will sometimes behave normally for a while until the corrosion builds up, and then things suddenly go sideways, so check carefully! Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

The procedures work like a charm.

Thanks for the comprehensive guidelines.

Note: Make sure to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector. I forgot in the first try an my trackpad and keyboard was not working. :D

Jagajith Monappan Kalarickal -

:) I did not flip a tab as well - but after some investigation, I have found my mistake. Now keyboard and trackpad are working. And the battery is now much, much thinner. Thanks IFixIt

Piotr Kubicki -

Das hat super geklappt ,ich bin sehr zufrieden.

Guido Lucas -

Hello! my children spill coconut oil on my MacBook pro and everything work normally but when I removed the battery I drill one cell of the battery. I just have an interesting question: is it possible to dissociate the perfored cell to the others and continue to use the same battery ?

tex -

A damaged battery is potentially dangerous and shouldn’t be used. Liquid damage alone is often enough to make it unsafe; with a puncture, it’s a no-brainer. Get a new battery. If you’re not comfortable doing it yourself, find a repair shop that can replace it for you. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

THANKS to ifixit!!! Works perfectly!!! The battery as well as the description!

Tobias Ehlers -

I just finished replacing the battery. The guide was just perfect and the machine lives!

ershler -

I buy battery kit. I follow guide. My computer now has 103% state of health and an extra 3 hours of run time. Perfect.

I’m not sure I would call this guide difficult - don’t let this put you off. If you follow all the steps and go carefully with the adhesive remover (and don’t prod too forcefully with those cards) it should all go smoothly. Much easier than things like replacing iPhone home buttons where there are lots of ways you can make a mess. Great work iFixit for the guide and a very high quality replacement battery. €100 saved.

Alex -

Merci pour ce guide très très utile ! Premièrement Attention positionnement de la nouvelle batterie ++ voir plus bas !

L’opération est délicate mais largement faisable même pour un débutant sans expérience d’électronique !

Bien préparer le travail, lire le tutoriel et savoir toutes les étapes est essentiel ! S’organiser en terme de place, d’outils, lumière, perturbation extérieure est aussi important pour pas se faire dépasser par les événements !

J’aimerais aussi dire que au début on n’ose pas forcer pour déconnecter certains câbles mais c’est bien car en fait cela vient relativement facilement si on tire dans le bon sens ! Certains sont plus dur que d’autre mais on comprend vite comment on peut forcer ou pas.

La nouvelle batterie … faites attention a son positionnement +++ . Pour mon expérience avant de la coller j’ai voulu tester la batterie avec les haut parleurs et vérifier si tout se positionnaient correctement ! Après avoir mis des marques au crayon de bois j’ai pu continuer sereinement.

Encore Merci :) !

marot -

Thanx for the tutorial but was a trackpad issue macbook pro 2015 i changed it put back the battery the laptop is working very fine 300 cycles of battery BUT I GET SERVICE BATTERY when i click the battery icon how do i get rid of it

allen rwegasila -

The battery in this laptop should never be re-used after being removed—it’s easily damaged and becomes a potential fire hazard. Replace the battery ASAP.

Jeff Suovanen -

This guide was fantastic and helped me plan and execute the task. I did everything as instructed except for removing the trackpad cable in step 20. I wasn’t sure how the ZIF cable attached and didn’t want to risk it. The cable was only marginally in the way and didn’t affect the install. I’m performing the calibration now and we’ll see how long the battery holds up… at least I’m confident that the install was perfect. It is also helpful when the back is off to take a peek around and clean up any dust balls, gunk, etc.

B P -

Thanks for this guide it is great! But after replacing the battery trackpad is dead. Any idea? should i replace cable?

Tomaz Utrosa -

Same here, just replaced the battery tonight precisely following the ifixit guide and the trackpad is not functioning. What is the solution?

Brian Crink -

Double-check everything in Steps 17-20. Make sure the sockets are clean and the cable is fully seated at both ends, and that there’s no damage to the cable itself.

Jeff Suovanen -

@jeffsu I rechecked and reconnected several times. Checked sockets, replaced the ribbon cable and I/O board cable. Installed the battery at 35%, it is not holding charge and the MacBook remains at 1% and dies immediately if unplugged. Reconnected the battery and no difference. At login screen Bluetooth mouse and keyboard don’t work but at the disk password login screen the Bluetooth devices work. Macbook’s Trackpad and keyboard still don’t work. What is the solution?

Brian Crink -

Sounds like your machine has multiple issues; this is too much to troubleshoot in the guide comments section. Try posting over in the Answers forum. There are lots of posts on the keyboard/trackpad issue already if you’re looking for ideas. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Super Reparaturanleitung mit dem EU123054-5 MacBook Pro 13" Retina (Early 2015) Battery Options: Fix Kit hat das ohne Problme funktioniert.

Dauer etwa 1,5 Std. mit allen Reinigungsarbeiten (Klebereste entfernen) und Wartezeit zum ablüften. Für 110€ gegenüber 230-250€ ist das eine tolle Lösung für einen neuen Accu.

Vielen Dank an Andrew Optimus Goldheart und den 6 anderen Mitwirkenden. Besonderen Dank an Annika Faelker für die super Übersetzung.

Schmitt -

Replaced a very puffed battery using this guide, went just fine using adhesive remover.

It was a bit easier than I assumed, but dealing with that glue is far more irritating than I thought it would be too.

Steve -

Bravo ! Super “Pas à pas”. L’opération s’est déroulée nickel. Mon conseil :

lire intégralement le “Pas à pas” avant d’attaquer. Préparer son matériel, être ordonner et surtout prendre son temps ….

Bruno Villers -

Easy replacement, as long as you are following the instructions. From start to finish: ONE HOUR. I did not use any chemicals to dislodge the old battery — instead I used a hair dryer (set to medium) to apply heat to the old battery. The new battery went in just fine, and, in a few minutes, the laptop was happy again. Thank you, iFixit. Good stuff!

Serge N -

The batteries in my laptop were so puffed that the laptop was bending and the top wouldn’t close properly anymore. So, when OS X says that your batteries need to be serviced, it means it.

That being said, this is *NOT* an easy repair. To start, I cracked the fragile corners on the battery. They are marked on the cellophane covering the battery, but I didn’t notice until *after* I had already cracked them. Sigh. Bought a new battery.

For me, the biggest issue was getting the new batteries in place properly. I had to lift and reposition the batteries with very sticky adhesive several times in order to get the position correct and have enough clearance for the speakers. Some advice/pictures/video on how to put the batteries back in with that sticky adhesive back would help tremendously.

Thanks for the guide and kit. I successfully installed a new battery, but I think I’ll leave this up to folks who do these kinds of battery repairs as a business next time.

Andrew L. -

It is mandatory to check the Age of the new Batterie, the Batterie should not older than on or two Month, from the current Date you will change it.

Also you don’t need a App to check the Batterie, Simply go to The Apple symbol , hit About this Mac, hit System Information, go to Hardware, and hit Power supply , you Batterie Production year/month how many charge cycles and so and so

esg2 -

It is maybe cheaper to remove the Batterie at your own, but the solvent can destroy a lot of the inner stuff of your MacBook when come into Places it should not go.and there is a high Risk to damage some stuff on the MotherBoard . And there is one Important thing you have to consider, no Garantie if something goes wrong you are on yourself. So saving 120$ dollar is no Option if you destroy your Motherboard . I’d rather pay the 350$ for the Change even I am qualified enough to do it myself, and there is also in the case the new Batterie is to old I can go Back and let them Change it and this time for free. Li-Po Batteries aging also when not used.

esg2 -

SENSATIONELL! Superschnelle Lieferung meines Ersatzakkus. Akku genau nach Anleitung eingebaut, alles funktioniert. Ersatzakkus + Werkzeug + Anleitung = PERFEKT.

Oliver Schmucker -

Thank you very much, my battery was swollen and I got an outrageous quote from Apple Authorized dealer for the battery replacement. did it myself and saved over 60% of the cost.

Thank you once again. it took me about 1.5 hours to complete, I didn’t use the solvent, i used I-remover and the battery removed in about 10 minutes.

Adewale Soetan -

I replaced my broken battery today, began charging but it stalled at 51% (I don’t know where it started). It says that the battery condition is at the ‘Replace Now’ stage.

I’m not even sure where to begin troubleshooting this.

Nathan Bryant -

My battery stills in 1% and says battery condition “replace now”, did the SMC reset and remains with the same problem, someone help!!

Santiago García -

This was much easier than than expected, the adhesive remover (which I think is just acetone) worked really well. I was worried that the cause of the problem was the battery charging controller and the the swelling would just return, but did not realize that the controller comes with the battery, so I am less concerned now. I was also concerned that the swelling, which caused the laptop not to sit properly on a desk, and the cover to fully close would still remain after replacing the battery, but it seems like this was all due to the swollen battery and once replaced everything seems fine (sits flat and cover fully closes again)

John Davis -

If I change the battery on a MacBook Pro running Catalina, will it still work or is there a mechanism Apple build in Catalina so it won’t accept the battery as its own and therefore prohibt to run?

Hannes -

Not that I can tell. Mine (running Catalina) booted up just fine after swapping the battery.

John Robison -

Hi guys,

great kit and great instructional video. I have successfully replaced my old battery with the new one. However, even after 3 SMC resets the batteries is not being recognised and it doesn’t charge.

what might be the cause and the solution? Thank you

Edward -

same problem, my battery stills in1% “replace battery”

Santiago García -

What’s the difference to the late 2014 battery?

IF123-054-5 A1582 for A1502 Early 2015 (6560 mAh) vs.

IF123-053 A1493 for A1502 Mid 2014 (6330 mAh)

I’m afraid they are incompatible?

Martin -

However, products such as B07H31GXJ2 claim to compatible for both A1582 and 1493

Martin -

I was not sure of my abilities, but I needed to fix my MacBook Pro 13" Retina (Early 2015). This seemed to be the best, though slightly more expensive, way to go about it. I’m happy about how it all went. I did a few of the short cuts and used a hair dryer instead of the adhesive remover, though it required a bit more muscle and patience. I appreciate all the efforts of those involved.

Frank Rowland -

I replaced the battery of my Mac successfully and everything is working as expected. The only issue I have, is that the outer segments of the new battery do not seem to hold on to the case. It seems as though the adhesive is not sticky enough. Before installing the new battery I made sure that the case was completely clean; all remnants of the old adhesive were removed.

Any tips on how to fix this? Just glue it in? If so, with which glue? Doublesided tape? There’s a bit too much free space inside the case, so if I move my laptop, I can hear the battery segments move inside the case…

Michiel Katgert -

My battery came with 86% charge but of course, condition as normal for full charge capacity and longevity. Cheers. Took me 26 minutes for entire job. I’ve done several of these though, prepare for an hour at least your first time and GO SLOW and double check everything as you go.

Faslane -

Hat alles perfekt geklappt, danke für die hervorragende Anleitung. Ich hatte den Kleber mi einem Föhn erwärmt das ging auch.

lothardietrich -

Klasse Anleitung, hat hervorragend funktioniert.

Habe das Gehäuse von Außen mit dem Fön erwärmt, 2 Minuten gewartet und dann den Akku herausgenommen.

Gruß Frank

Frank Düding -

One note for having a grand finale: turn the laptop around while reattaching the battery to its port in order to get a better view of how secure it is in place.

I completed all the final steps in reverse and closed my laptop up, only to power it on and see that it wasn’t recognizing the new battery (battery icon had an X through it). So I had to remove the bottom cover and again and make sure it was fastened. Turns out that I had only clicked it half into place. All is well now and I couldn’t be happier with the kit and guide! Thank you so much.

Genevieve Goebel -

Hallo,

nach dem Tausch lässt sich das MB nicht mehr starten.

Ein/Aus / P+R+alt+cmd

Also auch ein SMC Reset mit

Ctrl+alt+shift / Ein/Aus

helfen nicht weiter.

Hin und wieder zeigt der Bildschirm mal eine Batterie mit rotem Balken an, aber unregelmäßig.

Einbau hatte problemlos funktioniert.

Kennt jemand eine Lösung?

niklas -

hattest du eine Lösung finden können?

Zk_bln -

El extraño caso de un MacBook Pro 13” retina de 2015 cuya batería se hinchó de repente después de sólo 20 ciclos de uso.

Un aparato siempre conectado a la red y que siempre se usó como ordenador de escritorio.

Misteriosamente la batería marca 6957mAh de capacidad siendo su capacidad de diseño 6559mAh.

macOS Battery Status GOOD

Jorge Gil -

This was a straightforward repair thanks to the good instructions. This is my first battery swap in a MB Pro after 2 easy ones in MacBook Airs. The adhesive makes this one more complicated. Still took less than an hour, going slow and double checking everything as I went. 2 shortcuts I found: 1) No need to completely disconnect the right speaker. Work the cable loose along the edge of the battery, remove the screws and swing the speaker out of the way. 2) Only need to disconnect the logic board end of the trackpad cable. Another tip: make sure the outermost cells are positioned in such a way that the speakers drop in place. It’s easy to slightly misposition the cell and prevent the speaker(s) from seating properly. Overall, this is another quality repair kit from iFixit.

lmoyers50 -

I replaced my battery in an hour and 20 minutes, no issues following the very concise instructions. Excellent instructions and iFixit battery parts/tool kit. A picture of the Torx screws would make the assembly instructions infallible.

azimuthdave -

Extrem schnelle Lieferung, hervorragende Reparaturanleitung und klasse Werkzeug. Passt!! Nach sorgfältig durchgeführter Vorgehensweise, war “das Projekt” in gut zwei Stunden erledigt. Jetzt noch die Kalibrierung des Akkus ausführen. Danke dafür …

Micha Buchwald -

Very good instructions. Make sure you remember where the screws go because they are in different lengths. I wish I got the ihotopener because the adhesive was really hard to pull them off.

Susu Wong -

Thanks for the very helpful guide really made this repair easy and the adhesive remover made a world of a difference . I advise anyone about to do this repair to purchase the kit provided here it will be money well spent :)

Kyle Bradshaw -

Hello, I recently bought a battery to replace in my MacBook Pro 13” Early 2015. Upon plugging in and turning on, the device booted and I was in business…however, the next time I shutdown and tried to turn on the laptop, it wouldn’t. I would need to disconnect the connector of the battery to the logic board, wait a few seconds, reconnect the battery connector to the socket and my laptop would eventually turn back on.

I’ve tried the following as well: PRAM/SMC Reset and Calibrating Battery. In order to make a fair assessment that the battery was malfunctioning, I went ahead and left the battery connector unplugged and had the laptop on the MagSafe charger and it turned on seamlessly.

Is the “new battery” faulty? Should I replace any other component? Not related, but I had previously updated the SSD successfully with a new WD SSD/NVE PCIe adapter and got one” question mark folder” in the first day of installing it. It hasn’t happened since, so fingers crossed. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Cris A -

Hey, could u fix this problem?

Zk_bln -

Exactly same tging happen to my macbook after i replace battery. Any solutions?

nirmal2008 -

Great guide, works perfectly!

Sammy Valentino -

Hice todo el proceso, pero al encender la mac, no me reconoce la batería

Juan Martin -

Hi Juan, problem solved ?

Solucionado ?

Joel Marti -

Completed on my MBP, the original battery has had around 260 cycles now. Still love this little guy, so I’m glad I’m able to get the battery swapped and feels like new again! In the process also cleaned/re-applied the thermal paste on the CPU and swapped out the SSD!

Ming Lee -

Changed battery successfully but Upon plugging in and turning on, the device booted however, the next time I shutdown and tried to turn on the laptop, it wouldn’t. I would need to disconnect the connector of the battery to the logic board, wait a few seconds, reconnect the battery connector to the socket and plug charger and my laptop would eventually turn back on.

I’ve tried the following as well: PRAM/SMC Reset and Calibrating Battery. In order to make a fair assessment that the battery was malfunctioning, I went ahead and left the battery connector unplugged and had the laptop on the MagSafe charger and it turned on seamlessly.

Is the “new battery” faulty? Should I replace any other component?

nirmal2008 -

my Boss spilled a glass of water over his laptop, and the apple store declared it broken, so he got a new one. Now with all this home office stuff happening, I needed a stronger laptop (i am a designer and worked with a MacBook air)

This was my first ever computer fix, and I was able to fix it all on my own, with no problems at all!

Now everything is working fine again, so thanks a lot for these amazingly detailed instructions!

Uxfocus -

Very nice. Was pretty simple just need patience on the battery removal as you slowly pry it out. Thanks!

jake -

My MacBook will not power on after the replacement…. I double checked the battery connector, it is correctly snapped in. The diode on the charger connector is lighting up orange. The logic board which is part of the battery assembly is warm… What could be the problem?

Jean-François Schmitz -

Just connected the old battery and the Macbook starts. Apparently I got a defective unit….

Jean-François Schmitz -

Big thank you to Dennis from iFixit EU support :-) The battery I got was definitely defect and after a short diagnosis I received a new one by FedEx Express in 24 hours. All up and running again with my new battery :-)

Jean-François Schmitz -

Really appreciated your instructions. Made one error, but not serious. Good work.

James Mitchell -

Great instructions. I have a couple comments:

For people having keyboard or trackpad issues:

If you followed the disassembly photos you may have lifted the the tap on the ZIF connector in Step 18 image. Note the lifted “tape” below the thumb. This may release the ZIF Connector and cause keyboard issues. Make sure the black retaining bar is in the down position on the ZIF Connector.

Also, check the ZIF connector in Step 19 and 20. The Black plastic retaining bar MUST be in the “up/open” position to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable.

Donald MacTavish -

Not all steps are required if you only want to replace the battery. Then you can limit yourself to disconnecting the battery connector (don’t forget to tape it off!), disconnecting the trackpad connector from the system board (watch out while leaving it dangling), unscrew the left and right speakers (while leaving the connectors attached to the system board) and removing the old battery by applying heat.

I cleaned the remaining adhesive from the chassis and bottom of the trackpad with some adhesive remover (petroleum based), and then by removing the leftover glue residue with isopropyl alcohol.

The fixit replacement battery stated 100% power charge when I first powered it up after replacing the battery. I suppose that this is incorrect as a lithium polymer battery is never fully charged when stored. When calibrating the battery, I expect the power level to be accurate.

Olivier Biot -

iFixIt makes repairs super easy. I replaced the battery in my 2015 retina MacBook Pro with ease. Only took 40 minutes. The longest part for me was cleaning the original glue residue but that’s just because my perfectionism was kicking in. Thanks for another DIY repair job in the books!

douglasburch -

je suis un simple utilisateur, pas spécialement formé ou habitué à réparer mon matériel informatique

ce matin, j ai reçu le kit… et je me suis lancé… un peu la peur au ventre sur une intervention qualifiée de difficile

et finalement.. top ! tout est super bien détaillé et expliqué… avec le matériel parfaitement adapté sous la main

et 2 heures plus tard montre en main… c’est fait ! je suis très content.. de moi… de vous ! merci !!!

Valente -

The process took me about an 1:30 because of how the battery was glued. I was going to err on the side of caution so I took my time. Other than than, everything else was straight forward. I didn’t add the aluminum foil (Step 22) because I had already disassembled so much already. That step could have been added at the top before unscrewing. It didn’t factor into what I was doing anyway. The adhesive remover was used sparingly. I also managed to dig out more rice that slipped through the vents when the owner thought it would help. LOL!

Vincent -

Broke the retaining tab of the ZIF connector for the trackpad cable :( I used the absolute slightest pressure and it just popped off and now the trackpad isn’t working

Joe Venten -

I successfully completed battery replacement on my early 2015 MacBook Pro Retina. I also recommend NOT disconnecting the speaker cables, and only disconnect one end of the track pad cable. Just lay the speakers connected but out of the way when positioning the new battery. Also, I was able to remove the old battery with a plastic card and elbow grease…no heat or solvent. Great tutorial!

Rusty James -

Be aware if you use the liquid method!! Although I used an aluminium sheet I ruined my display!

But the kit itself is really great.

Peter Gietl -

Thanks for the new battery and great instructions. We just replaced it and everything went smoothly! Kudos to iFixIt…

Brian Gray -

Everything except wifi wont turn on after replacement… someone please help where how to fix this… ???

Lilliane -

Merci pour ce tutoriel. j’ai réussi à retirer la batterie collée sans aucun produit, avec une carte souple.

1H15 en tout pour démonter puis remonter.

Philippe Blanc -

I used an iFixit Jimmy to break the glue from the battery perimeter where I could and used a combination of sawing through the glue with fishing line (dental floss might work too?) while wearing work gloves and brute forcing with iFixit plastic cards. In retrospect heating the metal blade of the Jimmy first would have been smart. A “Japanese putty knife” like Eric Vuurman mentioned above sounds better. I had foolishly told a student “Sure I can replace your MacBook battery!” before looking at the iFixit guide. Had I done so I would have noticed that the iFixit battery kit would have been a more sane choice. Apple quoted her $200 and a week’s time, the time part being a problem.

brianstretch -

Finalmente la batteria funziona a dovere! Seguendo la guida passo passo non ci sono possibilità di errore!! Considerando che era la prima volta che aprivo il mio macbook pro. Complimenti!! Kit super efficiente! Grazie mille

Daniele Marinelli -

If this repair is a 1/10, then the other repairs must be a breeze to do. I really didn’t find it that hard. I don’t know if it was just my computer, but I’d give it a 5/10 for ease to repair. Give yourself at least an hour to an hour and a half to do it. The only difficult part was trying to remove all the adhesive once the battery was out.. It was just tedious, like trying to get gum out of carpet… But my battery was pretty easy to take out.. I used little amounts around the edge of each battery, and the cards provided lifted the battery right up. If you take your time, this is very easy and doable.

Erik Schmitt -

The battery of my 2015 13" MacBook Pro Retina had swollen. I have replaced it with the iFixit battery in less than one hour. I bought the iFixit kit including tools. Tools are great and I strongly recommend them if you are not yet equipped with specific computer tools. I didn’t use the adhesive remover liquid, the old battery came easily by using the provided plastic card only. Following the tutorial step by step ensure all will be ok. Strongly recommended.

Thierry Waterlot -

I just replaced the battery for my rMBP 2015 13’, but after the replacement I found out that my laptop works somehow slower than before, even with power adapter. Under BigSur I was able to playback 4K videos on YouTube (with charger) but after the replacement I lost the 4K option. I had to reopen it via Safari-Developer Settings-VP9 On Battery and it gets lags when playing 60fps 1440P. And also my Iris Graphics won’t run more than 850MHz, before it could easily get around 1 GHz, CPU run slower and consumes less power also. My rMBP now functions like if is always on battery, although it’s connected to charger. Under System-Info and CoconetBattery everything seems fine. Anybody has the same issue?

Micron Hegerlich -

So, I’m not sure what the issue is. But after I replaced my battery the touchpad / trackpad just isn’t as good as it used to be. It seems like it has intermittent dead spots and doesn’t have that buttery smooth apple feel. I’m not sure if I cranked on the back of it too hard while prying up the batteries, or if I didn’t re-seat the cable well enough. After I go through through the conditioning process I’ll see if a reboot does it, and then I may re-seat the cable.

I could also see Apple just detecting an aftermarket battery and then deciding to make the trackpad no longer work.

arrowchris -

Ich habe gestern mit dem iFixit-Akku Kit meinen Akku erstmals selbst gewechselt und mit Hilfe der Anleitung alles wunderbar hinbekommen! Ich kann allen, die Geld sparen möchten und ihr Gerät weiter benutzen möchten die iFixit-Kits inkl. Anleitungen wärmsten empfehlen. Nun kann ich mein tolles MacBook weiter benutzen und konnte mir 100 Euro Reparaturkosten ersparen! Beste Grüße aus Deutschland!

Alvin De guzman -

I will recommend this battery replacement to like-minded friends for sure! As a former tech writer for telecom systems and analog instrument repair tech, I’m impressed by the quality of this guide, start to finish. Best of all, kudos to you for not offering instructions only by video. Step-by-step text with detailed pictures—entirely usable on a smartphone because, well, it’s obvious, the laptop’s unavailable—were easy to follow and worked. I do agree with observations on Step 22 (“Should be Step 1”) but otherwise I had a painless repair experience. Mac’s at 100% tonight. If I have trouble with battery calibration, I’ll check back and advise, but so far: %#*@ near perfect.

Oh, and the Mako Driver Kit is a great deal, worked perfectly, will help fix so much down the road.

David Ayer -

Hi. I have the following issue after the replacement of the batterie:

the MacBook shutsdown after some seconds at different stages of the restart process. Sometimes I see the apple logo, sometimes the log in screen…. If I keep the powerbutton pushed it starts all the way up, but shutsdown soon after (I see the shutdown screen but can’t stop it). I tried the smc reset. It didn’t help. Any other ideas? I did not run into any problems during the process.

johanneshasselbach -

Great tutorial, thanks to authors.

Unfortunately, after having successfully replaced the battery, the trackpad & keyboard don’t work anymore.

Yet I did all steps very carefully. I did reset VRam, SMC but got no effect. External USB keyboard & mouse are working well.

More, the trackpad seems to be very hard to press (to get a “click”).

I’ve ordered a new trackpad flex cable (quite easy to replace), hoping this solve the problem.

Has somebody else already experienced the same ?

Olivier Lecomte -

Solved: I did replace the flex cable, no positive effect. so, I did order un new trackpad and replaced it. It works ! I think the old one did break during the battery replacement because of mechanical stress (the battery had expanded…)

Olivier Lecomte -

This guide was perfect. I think I did everything right - at least my new battery is now charging. Fingers crossed, but everything looks good!

I should note that my battery was badly swollen and I think that actually made the annoying adhesive removal process a lot easier, as the puffed up battery had less surface contact with the laptop body.

Tim Graham -

Perfect guide, thank you very much! Not as hard as it seems, the only problem is the adesive at the center of the battery. Spend 10€ more and get iFixit kit and your life will be much easier.

Giammarco -

great walk through guide thank you mate

Alfaric -

Removing the battery was easier than it sounded. Clearing up the remaining adhesive residue took a lot longer than I thought but fine. The actual hard part turned out to be installing the new battery. You need to align the one screw—and that part of the battery is not flexible. So I decided to start there. The problem then was it’s really hard to control exactly how the rest of the battery fits in, partly because it’s large and floppy, partly because you don’t have spare space for your fingers. It’s easy for it to land in a way that makes fitting a speaker back in hard, or that raises part pf the plastic battery frame (both happened to me). I don’t know how I could have done it any better, other than by doing 20 of these and getting a feel for it. So the advice: don’t press your new battery down until the VERY last step. You might need to try to pry it up with your fingers at any point when you’re seeing how things are coming back together. All in all it’s a mess and Apple sucks for making it like this.

Giles Holland -

This was an excellent guide and everything worked perfectly. I would only add:

When placing the new battery in place make sure it aligns exactly with the part it plugs into.

I would also suggest doing what I did- use some paper small condiment cups to put the screws into, and you can label each cup with the number of the step and the size of the screw.

Extremely happy!

Michael Mullen -

Just finished replacing the battery on MacBook Pro. The guide was first rate and made the job seem a lot more manageable than I expected.

I bought a divider box from B&Q to store each screw in a separate box - now I have an extra box for my garage. This made putting it back together a doddle.

I did have to remove the sticker over the battery connector to get it lined but but this is no big deal.

Main issue I faced after finishing install was battery not detected and fan racing - that being said the ifixit guide linked me to a related article and after a quick reset of the SMC I have a full recognised battery with 1 cycle count which is now going through the full calibration process.

Thanks ifixit - another MacBook saved from extinction!

Jim Whitehead -

This guide was absolutely excellent! I’ve never fiddled around with computers before and after reading this guide thoroughly a few times I was able to easily understand what I was supposed to do and was able to switch out my old battery no problem. Thank you so much!

PatZen -

The replacement worked well and I got excited when I turned on my MBP. But then I realized that the WiFi isnt working. Did anyone have the same issue? The date and time also are not correct and it wont let me change it.

JoK -

Hammer !

Das ist eine Super-Anleitung, vor allem, was das Lösen der Verklemmung angeht. Ich hab sowohl den iOpener als auch das Lösungsmittel benutzt, damit ging’s dann gut. Auch die genauen Hinweise auf die Schraubenlängen fand ich sehr hilfreich. Hat alles geklappt, aber man muß wirklich sorgfältig arbeiten.

Karsten Franke -

Great! Very useful guide.

I only suggest buying the screwdriver to remove the trackpad as well. Because the solvent flows through the trackpad, so you can clean it.

It took me 2 hours. The tricky thing was to remove the battery in the center, just below the trackpad

Maximillian -

Thank you! My son & I repaired a second hand MacBook he purchased recently. The battery was working but was so bloated the shell parted as soon as the screws were removed. Loosening the battery with all cells bloated was a little nerve wracking, but it all appeared to work out.

The instructions were very good and clear.

The Mac is now charging so hopefully the laptop will work for a while now.

Bert Kelly-Johnston -

Thank you! Just got completed!

Manuel Guimarães -

Thanks for the guide! I was able to complete the repair and now my wife’s mac is back on her desk; she’s very pleased.

The most difficult parts for me were removing the battery (if I did it again, I’d be more comfortable — dissolving the adhesive in an area I couldn’t see was just slow and tedious work) and aligning the new battery just right. I had to kind of stick-unstick-and-restick the battery until I got all the important things (electronic connector, the single screw hole, the little rubber studs that sit against the base, the spaces left for the speakers) just right.

As some of the comments suggested, I did not disconnect the speaker cables or the trackpad cable— I just unscrewed the speakers and set them carefully aside, and bent the trackpad cable out of the way. Those zif connecters I just find too small to work with, so I avoid disconnecting them unless I have no choice.

Russ Williston -

It works! I did it and the machine powered on and the battery is charging. After a wipe over and a screen clean my beloved Early 2015 MacBook Pro 13" is almost ready for sale. Thanks for this great guide iFixit team. Two thumbs up!

Mark Gillespie -

Thank you very much for the clear instructions. I did it in about 45' and everything works fine!!!

Laurean Tudor -

Excellent explanation! I "know" this model from having replaced the speakers, but this was my second Mac Book Pro to repair (and first battery replacement).

I know my way around with isopropanol (have 99+% purity) but I wanted to minimize any risk of spillage and damage to the rest of the device. therefore, I cut through the tape with the plastic cards. It's posisble if you go in the direction of the tape, not perpendicular to it. Was a pain in the neck, but it can be done without solvent. I then used a little isopropanol to clean any residues of tape before fitting in the new battery.

That battery itself (not an original from Apple, third party via ebay) was just a little different in dimensions, so I had do squeeze it in here and there. But the battery was recognized instantly is working fine now.

Apart from that, the trackpad cable connector was the only tricky issue (plugging it back in on the trackpad side).

Jochen Bergmann -

Battery replacement: also used only IPA utilizing one of these cheap small plastic bottles with a steel syringe needle applicator cap. I did have acetone in another bottle but decided against it vs. IPA.

Calibrated the new battery using the advice at the end of the Newer install video.

btk -

Very pleased with my battery replacement. It took approx 1hr 45 mins but I was in no rush and I slowly and carefully followed through the very helpful instructions. My 7 year old MacBook is now as good as new and hopefully good for another few more years yet.

Something interesting: when I opened everything up I was puzzled to find an apple seed hiding inside my machine - was one of the Chinese assemblers having a little joke?

Tony Horsewill -

The process wasn't too difficult, just a bit tedious. I did a few things different from the guide that seemed to make the process go a bit smoother:

- I used a hair dryer to loosen the adhesive instead of acetone or the iOpener.

- I plugged the new battery in while aligning/gluing down. This ensured it was in the exact correct spot to make it fit.

- I used non-acetone nail polish remover on a paper towel to remove the remaining adhesive left behind on the MacBook.

- To ensure that none of the nail polish remover remained, I blasted the MacBook with the hair dryer on the warm setting to help it evaporate faster.

Just a heads up, if you're using your own plastic cards to remove the battery, make sure you use cards you don't care about (i.e. gift cards, expired CCs). The two cards I used became super bent and covered in adhesive. Otherwise, my MB seems to be working great now! :)

PumaGator -

Thanks for this tutorial! My MBP is working again!

The original battery had bloated, almost to twice its thickness. The MBP has already wobbled on the table because the bottom had bulged.

I have done the removal with the iOpener.

Now the battery must still hold out as long as the original. ;-)

Bernd Lauber -

Thank you. I had an early 2015 MacBook collecting dust for 2 years since spilling a glass of red wine on it. After the spill it would power up while plugged in, but once the power was taken away, it shut off. Apple store wanted $500 to replace the battery, and couldn't assure us that it would solve the problem, so we just bought a new MacBook pro. I used your replacement kit for less than $150, and in less than 1 hour the laptop is back in working order.

jonlobb86 -

Great guide. Repair went very smoothly!

adam -

Great guide. Marked as difficult and I sweat myself through it but I actually found it quite straightforward. Worked great with iFixit's battery replacement kit. Saved a ton of money!

Neil 9797 -

Great guide. Very well explained. Kudos to the author. Had no trouble replacing the old battery with the new iFixit replacement battery. My Macbook Pro just got new life again :) Saved me from an expensive repair if given to Apple Care. Thank you.

Daran Kandasamy -

Save yourself some time and trouble and purchase the upper case that already includes the battery. That turns what is a 1/10 in repairability rating into a 9/10 repairability. There are repair/replacement guides here for all of the other internal bits, tricky or not. I’m more careful than quick, but it still took under three hours to swap everything over and re-assemble.

davidvincentiannelli -

This was a pretty straight forward step by step process. Total replacement time was about 1.5 hours going very slowly. Just take your time and you'll be alright. Don't rush.

George Orwell's Ghost -

Excellent instructions. My MB Pro has new life in it! I ordered just the batter as I have the tools. However, I didn't have the adhesive remover, so I used carburetor cleaner instead. The carburetor cleaner worked like a champ, but you've got to be careful about overspray. Give any parts that do get sprayed time to dry before reassembly.

Chris Kidd -

Just finished replacing the battery and am writing the review on the fixed laptop after doing the charge cycling. I almost ruined the trackpad ZIF connector and the larger logic board connectors. I bent the pins on the large logic board socket and used the spudger flat side to bend them back. Then I more carefully positioned the plug upon reentry. I thought I'd released the ZIF but had not. I pulled the ribbon connector straight out parallel to the board. Later I looked more carefully and was able to lift the tiny black bar before using Zero Insertion Force to reposition the connector/cable, then of course latched the bar back. Some photos with more of a closeup would help. A few drops of acetone, wait, insert plastic card while lifting the battery in one side, it was pretty easy to remove them.

neuronetix -

Thank you I fix it it is good to know someone is looking out for us.

Neal Jaggernath -

Thank you for this guide, it worked perfectly with me! Only thing now is that the touchpad and keyboard aren't working... Have to solve that now.

João Duarte -

Another successful repair thanks to the kind folks at iFixit. Repair kit, replacement battery, and step-by-step instructions were flawless as usual. One less device for the recycle bin, and more money in my pocket.

John Scott -

Repair went well, instructions were clear and I managed to do it in about an hour and a half. However, I had to cut away the back of the little nubbins in the 4 corners of the central frame in order for the battery to seat properly, maybe the guide should mention that. One of the plastic cable guides also broke off from the backing of the central cells (not the cable, just the plastic that held it in place) and it popped up (I probably stuck the battery down a little off-center and tensioned it, but I tacked it down with a little kapton tape so it's all ok now.
I hope that the battery doesn't last 18 months like some people say it did in the reviews but until then I'll probably need to replace this laptop anyway. For now, I'm more than happy with it!

Devnol -

What is the reason for waiting 5 hours after it goes to sleep due to low battery in the calibration stage? I thought li-ion batteries weren't supposed to stay drained, ever.

bkbkbk -

Maybe i didn’t see it but how are the battery packs to the left and right if the center ones actually connected - i didn’t see any cabling like in the old battery pack I removed.

Computer still isn’t turning on even after replacing the battery pack. Does the replacement battery pack come with any charge already in them?

Michael Brannagan -

Great instructions! I am no tech-savvy person (have replaced a only few things on my Macbook before) and I was able to pull this off. Don't be intimidated, just read the instructions at least twice and read all comments for each step and you'll be in good hands. Unfortunately, I messed up on Step 19 (like many) and broke my trackpad cable by not flipping up the ZIF connector. Had to buy a replacement for like $8. Took about 2 hrs for everything, and an extra hour for troubleshooting the broken trackpad cable. Had to use more force than I wanted to get those pesky batteries out, but used the solvent pretty liberally and waited like recommended. Overall, I saved a ton of money and this was a great empowering experience.

Kelly Archer -

Complimenti ottima guida, chiara e semplice nelle varie istruzioni. Complimenti ad iFixit, che con la sostituzione della batteria, mi ha consentito un risparmio di circa 150€, rispetto a portare il mio Macbook Pro in un centro assistenza Apple. In circa 1,5h sono riuscito a sostituire la batteria, anche grazie al kit, acquistato assieme alla batteria su i Fixit.

Chini Roberto

chinrobit -

How long did your replacement battery last? Mine after 2 years is dead again.

I got myself a new battery but I fear mysterious issues may arise again

Lilliane -