Reemplazo de la batería de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla de Retina de Principios de 2013

Escrito Por: Sam Goldheart
  • Comentarios: 109
Reemplazo de la batería de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla de Retina de Principios de 2013

Dificultad

Difícil

Pasos

34

Tiempo Requerido

30 minutos - 2 horas

Introducción

Utiliza esta guía para remover la batería pegada de tu MacBook Pro con la ayuda del kit de reemplazo de batería de iFixit. El removedor de adhesivo en tu kit disolverá el adhesivo que sujeta la batería, permitiéndote removerla con facilidad. La batería está constituida de seis celdas diferentes, cuatro de las cuales están adheridas a la caja superior.

El removedor de adhesivo de iFixit es altamente inflamable. Realiza este procedimiento en un área muy bien ventilada. No fumes o trabajes cerca de una flama al descubierto durante este procedimiento.

Para minimizar el riesgo de daño, enciende tu MacBook y deja que a la batería se descargue completamente antes de comenzar este procedimiento. Una batería cargada de ion de litio puede crear una incendio peligroso e incontrolable si se perfora accidentalmente. Si tu batería está hinchada, toma precauciones adicionales].

Nota: El solvente utilizado para disolver el adhesivo de batería puede dañar ciertos plásticos, como los recintos de plástico de los altavoces de la MacBook Pro. Ten cuidado al aplicar el solvente.

Si estás utilizando el removedor de adhesivo iFixit de estilo antiguo con una botella y una jeringa (no se vende más), [guía|110107|haz clic aquí para una guía de instrucciones ligeramente modificada].

  1. XxSVygoKg3BQZUeK

    • Quitar los siguientes diez tornillos que unen la tapa inferior con el cuerpo:

    • Dos tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 2.3mm

    • Ocho tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 3.0mm

    • A lo largo de esta reparación, mantén un seguimiento de cada tornillo y asegúrate de que vuelve exactamente al lugar de donde salió para evitar dañar tu dispositivo.

    If don’t have one of those neat project mats, then you can use small pieces of flattened blu-tack to hold the screws. If you arrange them in the shape of your mac book cover, and put the screws down methodically, you can get a one-to-one mapping of the screws to the correct screw holes.

    Toby Thurston -

    Or you can use an ice tray where you put the screws and the parts in separate bays in the same order as they come in the instructions.

    timofej.se -

    This is great! I used a small magnetic white board, and wrote on it to identify the parts as I went. This whole process, from the fast shipment to the great instructions to the complete, high quality, tool kit has been great. I’m typing this comment on my resurrected laptop. Thank you! Sue

    Susan Greer -

  2. TZjAGsfhlId3q36t

    • Introduce los dedos entre el cuerpo y la tapa inferior.

    • Tire suavemente de la tapa inferior.

    • Retire la tapa inferior y déjela a un lado.

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    • Durante el montaje, empuja suavemente hacia abajo el centro de la carcasa inferior para volver a colocar los dos clips de plástico.

    • La carcasa inferior está conectada a la carcasa superior en el centro, con dos clips de plástico.

  4. oh6QmDClHy3Es55f

    • Remueve la cubierta de plástico adherida a la placa de contacto de la batería.

  5. AvPUsRLbmXLZWSlb

    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan la placa del conector de batería a la placa lógica:

    • Dos tornillos T6 Torx de 2.8 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T6 con reborde de 7.0 mm

  6. eYeaxKQXRIv43WNX
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    • Utiliza una pincita para remover la pequeña tapa de plástico ubicada cerca de la parte inferior derecha de la placa de conector de batería.

    Is adhered to screw beneath, so lift firmly and slowly.

    Andrew -

    when doing this with metal tweezers as instructed in the video, it was difficult to get off and apparently while i was trying to do it, the tweezers went too far under and i believe made contact with the screw underneath? there was a zzz noise, an orange flicker and a little stream of smoke that came out. i freaked out and put everything back together to see if the laptop even still worked, it turned on and everything but died right away (i drained it before doing the repair anyway, so i was surprised it turned on at all).

    i finished the battery repair and did several other things while in there. i have charged it all the way as recommended and will use it later on to see how everything is, im hoping that it’s a okay, but could someone explain to me what happened and the possible consequences?

    Kait D -

  7. 3h3p5bF5gSsxU3H1

    • Remueve el tornillo T6 Torx de cabeza ancha de 6.4 mm que sujeta el conector de batería al ensamblaje de la placa lógica.

  8. KnflDJ6YcW61sb3S
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    • Con cuidado, levanta la placa de conector de la batería de la placa lógica.

    • Se recomienda doblar los cables de batería ligeramente, para mantener la placa suspendida por encima de la placa lógica y fuera del camino.

    • No pliegues la placa completamente o dobles los cables ya que esto podría dañar la batería.

  9. wBB3HYE4h4RPE1gv
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    • Toma el intercalador con pincita

    • Un intercalador es el nombre de una interfaz que enlaza una conexión eléctrica con otra. En esta reparación, es la placa que conecta la batería a la placa lógica.

    • Levanta el intercalador de la placa lógica y remuévelo.

    • Al remover esta placa, te asegurarás que la batería permanezca desconectada durante tu reparación, previniendo que tu computadora se encienda accidentalmente. También es una buena idea sacarla así no cae de manera inesperada.

    How can I remove interposer I m not able to remove it

    Raunak -

    you must lift it absolutely vertically, or it fouls against the locator pin in the corner- you can easily get the impression that it won’t come over the end of this pin- almost like it’s rivetted in. it isn’t. get a good grip on it with the tweezers in the centre hole & one of the sides, & lift it STRAIGHT up.

    duncan rmi -

    I would recommend to use plastic tweezers in order to reduce risk of damage.

    Martin Sippel -

    wat is the model this SSD

    thierry.wilow -

  10. OZelarOBjAVaVFfX
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    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el lado derecho del conector de cable de datos de la placa E/S de su enchufe en la placa E/S .

    • Al levantar el conector de cables de datos de la placa E/S de su hueco, asegúrate de levantar el conector y no el hueco Si levantas el enchufe podrías causar daño irreversible a la placa E/S .

    I keep my fingernails fairly long, very handy for many computer repair jobs. This gives me 10 spudgers over which I have very fine muscular control. It is far easier to pop some of these tiny delicate MacBook parts loose with my nails.

    Ben Myers -

    Skip this step. For an easier, lower-risk repair, go straight to step 15 and just fold the speaker out of the way.

    .A. -

  11. QKxcNUeAhrixRuPH
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    • Calzar el extremo plano de un spudger por debajo del lado izquierdo del conector de cable de datos de placa E/S .

    • Suavemente tuerce el spudger para desconectar el conector del cable de datos de E/S de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    I also skipped this step as this data cable is not compromising the exchange of battery and less interaction with connectors is less risk of damage..

    Diesen Schritt habe ich ebenfalls weggelassen, da das Datenkabel den Austausch der Batterie nicht behindert und weniger Manipulationen an Steckverbindern bedeutet ein geringeres Risiko für Beschädigungen

    Martin Sippel -

  12. dWiQlHIlEeHEg2fO

    • Levanta y remueve el cable de datos de la placa E/S de su MacBook Pro.

    This step is useless. Could be skipped

    Pierre S. -

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    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de cable de SSD de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    • Mueve el conector de cable de SSD fuera del camino.

    As per my comment on step 10, this is also not required. When you remove the SSD in step 22, you can just fold it over out of the way.

    .A. -

    This step is easy enough that I’d just remove it to be out of the way. I 100% agree with your other comments though. While you’re here, might as well do step 21 and remove the drive, just takes a sec.

    maccentric -

    I also strongly recommend not to unmount the speaker plugs, just flip them out of the way, same as with the SSD drive. Makes it much less complicated and less risky. It worked perfect for me.

    Ich empfehle ebenfalls, die Platinenstecker der Lautsprecher nicht zu lösen sondern die Lautsprecher einfach, so wie das SSD-Laufwerk, einfach aus dem Weg zu legen. Das macht die Sache weniger kompliziert und weniger risikoreich. Es hat bei mir super funktioniert!

    Martin Sippel -

  14. TPfVFMgi1CPsEAui
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    • Calza el extremo plano de un spudger por debajo del conector de cable del altavoz derecho.

    • Levanta con cuidado el conector de cable del altavoz derecho de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    • Asegúrate de que estés levantando el conector y no el enchufe.

    When reassembling be careful that the right speaker wire is flush against the battery. At first, it was slightly touching the airport/bluetooth board causing wifi and bluetooth to not work after restarting.

    Stu -

  15. Q5kE4ikGn6Ylmdxb

    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el altavoz derecho a la caja superior.

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 6.8 mm

    • Dos tornillos Torx T5 de 6.3 mm

    • El tornillo de la esquina podría estar cubierto con una almohadilla de espuma. Utiliza tu pincita para removerla.

    If you manage to misplace any screws, particularly one of the speaker retaining screws, look under the speakers - they are magnetic and great at hiding missing screws :)

    Peter Newman -

  16. DLfgjQrIOI4RtC16
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    • Levanta y remueve el altavoz derecho de su caja superior.

    • Si es necesario, desvía el cable del altavoz derecho de su canal en la caja superior.

    For those who don’t realize it, the speakers you are removing really are the plastic corner pieces that look like they’re just there to fill the space.

    S Cockerille -

  17. ND1i5FHjBtM3ZDYb
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    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de cable de conector para audífonos de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    • Con cuidado dobla el cable de conector para audífonos hasta 90° arriba de la placa lógica.

    • Al doblar el cable de conector para audífonos podrás desconectar el conector de cable del altavoz derecho sin tener el cable de conector para audífonos fuera del camino.

    For an easier, lower-risk repair, skip this step and step 18 - go straight to step 19 and fold the speaker out of the way.

    .A. -

    Agreed, this is the way

    maccentric -

  18. 2XnPiTJJHRf4plBI
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    • Calza el extremo plano de un spudger por debajo del conector de cable del altavoz izquierdo.

    • Levanta con cuidado el conector de cable del altavoz izquierdo de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    • Asegúrate de que estés levantando el conector y no el enchufe.

    It's easier to follow Step 19 & 20 first and then come to Step 18 (this step). Doing so will make it easier to remove that speaker connector easily holding the cable of speaker without having to use a pry tool.

    Johhnie Doe -

  19. XUWUwyV1H65mRJ6S

    • Utiliza un destornillador T5 Torx para remover los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el altavoz izquierdo a la caja superior.

    • Dos tornillos Negro de 6.8 mm

    • Un tornillo plata de 6.3 mm

    • El tornillo plata (en la esquina) podría estar cubierto con una almohadilla de espuma. Utiliza pinzas para removerla.

    Be very careful on this step. If you aren’t you can snap the plastic on the corners where the screws go in. Remember to go slowly when spinning the screws back in, it doesn’t take gorilla torque to tighten them, just take it easy!

    Stacey Deel -

  20. T3MxHZ2JNDUGMAOP
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    • Levanta y remueve el altavoz izquierdo fuera de su caja superior.

  21. gTdRPTDqMMjsVMJm
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    • Utiliza tu pulgar o dedo para doblar la barra de resorte de plástico de la bandeja de SSD para liberar los dos clips en el lado frontal del dispositivo.

    • Mientras mantienes la barra de resorte presionada, inclina el ensamblaje de SSD hacia arriba y fuera de su cavidad.

  22. pWbTEW2yxdwMA3Fl

    • Remueve el ensamblaje de SSD de su caja superior.

  23. Nmxx2pGap6glP1oT
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    • Remueve los tres tornillos T5 Torx de 2.2 mm de cada lado de la batería (seis tornillos en total).

    If I were to do this again, I think I would leave unbolting the transverse battery until after ungluing the other four. That way one can tip the laptop on to one of its short sides and so run adhesive remover along the long edge of each battery and let gravity assist penetration without the transverse battery falling out.

    John -

    I think this is good advice.

    maccentric -

    I just did one of these that didn’t have these screws installed from the factory. Odd

    maccentric -

  24. DCbPFpVHuNDlbvlH

    • El removedor líquido de adhesivo que viene en tu kit puede afectar la capa antireflectante en la pantalla de tu MacBook Pro.

    • Para proteger tu pantalla, coloca una hoja de folio de aluminio entre la pantalla y el teclado y déjalo ahí mientras trabajas.

    You can use a heat gun to remove the adhesive. Remember you can always add more heat so don’t over do it. I put my heat gun on high for less than 10 seconds at a time

    BRUCEL86 -

    Using a heat gun on a lithium-ion battery is not a good idea. You can get away with it if you are careful, but a solvent is much safer. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

  25. kWdX6EyBKqBdoiKb
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    • Ahora que tu MacBook Pro está totalmente preparada, es hora de prepararte.

    • El removedor de adhesivo de iFixit contiene acetona, un irritante leve de la piel y ojos.

    • Usa protección para ojos al manejar y aplicar el removedor de adhesivo. (La protección para ojos está incluida en tu kit)

    • No uses lentes de contacto sin protección de ojos.

    • Los guantes protectores están también incluidos en tu kit. Si te preocupa la irritación de la piel, ponte los guantes ahora.

  26. eHkQ32ZcFd1PxbRD
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    • Abre tu contenedor de removedor de adhesivo.

    • Tuerce para aflojar o remover la tapa de la botella antes de cortar la punta del aplicador.

    • Es mejor que llenes la jeringa con no más de 1-2 milímetros de adhesivo a la vez para evitar que se aplique accidentalmente demasiado.

    • Utiliza la tijera para cortar la punta sellada del aplicador.

    • Cortar al ras de la punta angosta te dara un mejor control así puedes aplicar el removedor de adhesivo en pequeñas cantidades.

    • Tuerce y cierra la tapa de manera segura antes de proceder.

    The new applicator tip doesn't need to be cut as indicated in the instructions. Instead, use a pin (one is provided in the battery replacement kit multi-tool handle) to puncture the tip, not forgetting to loosen the bottle cap to equalize pressure.

    Joe Smith -

  27. JbUZvXMEuciFWvBf

    • Aplica una pequeña cantidad de removedor de adhesivo (aproximadamente 1 ml) de forma pareja bajo el borde de la batería que se encuentra en el extremo izquierdo.

    • Espera 2-3 minutos para que el removedor de líquido de adhesivo penetre por debajo de la celda de batería antes de proceder con el próximo paso.

    • Espera 2-3 minutos para que el removedor líquido de adhesivo penetre por debajo de la celda de batería antes de proceder al paso siguiente.

    If you use a heat gun be sure to point the heat gun away from the motherboard. After heating for 10 seconds or less use the blunt end of the metal pry tool as you don’t want to puncture the battery. You don’t need much force as after you have enough heat you will hear it unsticking when you pry at it lightly with the BLUNT end of the metal pry tool. Repeat this step on the other side. You don’t need to heat the cells near the motherboard as they are secured with small screws

    BRUCEL86 -

    I replace a lot of glued in Macbook batteries and you really do not need ISO to get them out. These wide blade plastic spudgers are brilliant and cheap. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32824615... Image here https://imgur.com/a/0Y0Yvyj

    Peter Newman -

    May not need it to remove the battery, but it sure helps for removing the leftover residue and black VHB that’s left behind. I found that dousing the VHB and using a metal flat spatula helped.

    maccentric -

    Some good advice:

    Use a iFixit plastic card/credit card (work from the short side of the computer) and stick it under the battery towards the glue strip and hold the card approx 45° (or whatever angle is appropriate) and drip the glue remover on the card so it slides/runs down the card underneath the battery. In this way the glue remover is aimed straight to the glue under the battery to ‘eat its way’ onto the glue. Let it do its job for a minute or two. Then you can dig in the card even more underneath (the angle of the card will obviously be less and less as you get further in; the idea is just to somehow slide the liquid under), add a bit more remover, dig a bit more, etc…

    Otherwise the glue remover can get a bit all over the place but this way it is more easily directed towards the glue.

    Johan Nilsson -

    Goo Gone, applied with a pipette, is a non-flammable alternative solution for releasing the adhesive that won’t harm plastics if it seeps past the battery cavities. It does take a bit longer, 30-45 mins, but is much safer. An additional benefit is that the adhesive will be completely separated from the top-case, so cleanup is super quick.

    John Grzeskowiak -

    Hi John,

    We don’t recommend using Goo Gone because it’s a petroleum distillate based remover, which leaves an oily residue. The residue can prevent replacement adhesive from fully bonding with the surface. Be sure to clean any Goo Gone surface with a detergent-based cleaner.

    Isopropyl alcohol and iFixit’s adhesive remover are formulated to evaporate quickly and leave little residue, which allows replacement adhesive to bond properly to the surface.

    Arthur Shi -

  28. epuWPc25hsXCpGXH
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    • Inserta el borde plano de un spudger o tarjeta plástica por debajo de la celda de batería del extremo izquierdo.

    • Desliza una herramienta a lo largo del perímetro de la celda de batería y levanta para comenzar a separar el adhesivo.

    This is the most difficult step. The tip of my spudger got bended and the aluminum case damaged it.

    Ahmed Almulhim -

    I also broke a spudger trying to do this. Eventually I figured out it is easier to go in diagonally from the corner, just to one side of the screw hole, and lever until you hear the adhesive pad tear and give way.

    Matt Sephton -

    we use a hair dryer and gently blow hot air in between the battery for a good minute before trying to lift it with a spunger. It worked wonderfully! When lifting, just give it constant force upward and you'll hear the battery slowly breaking away from the macbook, and we don't even see glue residues on our macbook at all. Just be patient. :)

    Allen Lin -

    Just a note to say that the above comments were written before the liquid adhesive remover was added to the guide—you should definitely NOT be breaking any spudgers using the current procedure, which requires very little force. I recommend using plastic cards rather than spudgers—it's pretty easy to slide them under each battery cell and separate the adhesive once the solvent has done its work.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is much easier to do using a plastic card. Just slide the card under the side of the battery and rock it back and forth. The battery will separate pretty quickly with minimal residue.

    lukecparr -

    by a plastic card, do you mean a credit card type thing? thanks in advance.

    Jennifer McPherson -

    Exactly—one of these or an old credit card should work fine.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I second this, I also used an old credit card and it totally worked! I did not use any heat or liquid

    yas.siqueira -

    Some good advice:

    Use a iFixit plastic card/credit card (work from the short side of the computer) and stick it under the battery towards the glue strip and hold the card approx 45° (or whatever angle is appropriate) and drip the glue remover on the card so it slides/runs down the card underneath the battery. In this way the glue remover is aimed straight to the glue under the battery to ‘eat its way’ onto the glue. Let it do its job for a minute or two. Then you can dig in the card even more underneath (the angle of the card will obviously be less and less as you get further in; the idea is just to somehow slide the liquid under), add a bit more remover, dig a bit more, etc…

    Otherwise the glue remover can get a bit all over the place but this way it is more easily directed towards the glue.

    Johan Nilsson -

    I attacked it from the longest side using the plastic card after initially sticking in the spudger. encountered some resistance so I reapplied the adhesive remover and went in with a plastic card. hardest step to me was cleaning up the adhesive remnants

    C C -

    My MBP identifies as late 2012/early 2013, and don’t know where you come up with a separate identity.

    Looking at both disassembly procedures, neither shows the aftermarket (probably NewerTech or OWC) battery I found in this MBP.

    That’s disconcerting; finds one asking myself - “Am I using the right procedure??”

    if you know this might be the case, please add note to this step if the user finds only 4 physical cased batteries.

    Tnx!

    prreitz -

  29. hQVPwVMQdoFqaMCV
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    • Introduce el spudger a lo largo del lado izquierdo de la celda de batería del extremo izquierdo.

    • Desliza el spudger a lo largo del lado izquierdo de la celda de batería del extremo izquierdo.

    • Ligeramente levanta la celda de batería del extremo izquierdo para liberarla del adhesivo.

  30. yRaF4CWNLGRrueNb
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    • Repite los pasos de arriba para separar la celda de batería adyacente de su adhesivo:

    • Aplica una pequeña cantidad (alrededor de 1 ml) de removedor líquido de adhesivo por debajo de la celda de batería.

    • Espera 2-3 minutos para que el removedor de adhesivo penetre y ablande el adhesivo.

    • Cuidadosamente coloca un spudger o tarjeta de plástico hacia adentro, con cuidado de no dañar la batería, y separa la celda de batería del adhesivo ajustándola a tu MacBook Pro.

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    • Introduce el extremo plano de un spudger por debajo de la celda de batería más grande del extremo izquierdo.

    • Cuidadosamente coloca el spudger hacia adentro sin dañar las celdas de baterías.

    • Levanta la celda de batería más grande del extremo izquierdo de la caja superior.

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    • Agarra las celdas de batería y muévelas suavemente ( pero no remueves) de su hueco en la caja superior.

    • Deja las celdas de batería descansando sobre la caja superior como se muestra en la tercer foto.

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    • Cambia de lado y repite el procedimiento para las dos celdas de batería del lado derecho de tu MacBook Pro.

    • Recuerda de agregar alrededor de 1 ml de removedor líquido de adhesivo debajo de cada batería y espera 2-3 minutos para que penetre antes de intentar levantar la celda debatería.

    • Ten cuidado de no perforar o dañar las celdas de baterías.

    Puncturing the battery’s protective covering can lead to release of caustic fumes or fire.

    Chris Leeds -

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    • Levanta la batería como una sola de la caja superior y remuévela .

    • Antes de instalar una batería nueva, remueve todo el adhesivo viejo de la caja de la MacBook Pro.

    • Con un poco de suerte, puedes lentamente levantar cada tira de adhesivo con tus dedos.

    • De lo contrario, empapa cada sección de adhesivo con un poco de removedor de adhesivo durante 2-3 minutos y luego raspa y sácalo con un pico de apertura o cualquiera de las herramientas en tu kit. Esto podría ser mucho trabajo, así que ten paciencia.

    • Limpia cualquier resto de removedor de adhesivo y dale a tu MacBook Pro durante unos pocos minutos para que se seque al aire.

    • La batería de reemplazo incluida en tu kit de iFixit viene con un adhesivo pre-instalado. Prueba el ajuste y la alineación de la batería con cuidado antes de quitar la capa que cubre el adhesivo y luego presiona cada celda firmemente en su lugar. Si hay capas y recubrimientos adicionales que no estaban en la batería original, remuévelos ahora.

    • Calibra tu batería nueva. Cárgala hasta el 100% y luego sigue cargándola durante al menos 2 horas más. Luego, desenchúfala y úsala normalmente para drenar la batería. Cuando veas la advertencia de batería baja, guarda tu trabajo y mantén tu laptop encendida hasta que se duerma. Espera al menos 5 horas, luego cárgala de forma ininterrumpida hasta 100%.

    • Si notas alguna conducta o problema inusual luego de instalar tu batería nueva, podrías necesitar restablecer el SMC de tu MacBook Pro.

    During battery replacement take care to position the two left and right battery packs inwards and upwards towards the macbook center such, that there is sufficient space for reinstallation of the two speakers!

    Fred Ziegler -

    I second Fred’s suggestion. I had to “smoosh” the right speaker in since my battery replacement was a little bit too far over. It was fine, but the “heads up” note is warranted.

    David Ryan -

    If you're replacing the top case that includes a new battery, can't you skip removal of the battery?

    jaredcastello -

    Yes!! If uppercase Assembly(Includes Trackpad, keyboard, Palmrest & BATTERY) is being replaced, there is no need to remove battery from old uppercase assembly.

    Macrepair SF -

    When you are at this step and before you put the new battery in, take the time to clean your computer really well. You will be surprised how much dust/dirt and even pet hairs have gotten into your computer. After I removed the battery, I use a little more of the acetone to clean the bays up and after it dried, I used a tiny bit of Isopropyl Alcohol to make sure there was a good clean area for the new bonding. Make sure you clean the fans. Don’t use a toothbrush or anything like that. If your have a Lowes or Home Depot, you can buy a shop vac attachment kit for about $20, it’s well worth it. Don’t use that air in a can crap, it will put moisture on circuits. Take your time, it’s not a hard task to do everything, just use a little patience.

    Stacey Deel -

    Hi all,

    After installing the new batteries, my mac is not powering up… Do i need to charge the battery first and then check again? Have anyone faced similar issue before?

    My 1st battery from ifixit came out to be defective and it caused fire at the centre of the long battery. I have got a replacement for the defective piece which i have installed now. However, now i am worried that connecting to power could lead to any potential fire / harm to my mac???

    Already i have spent lot of time in this and it would be very upsetting if this battery spoils my mac!!!

    Any suggestion people???? thanks in advance!

    BR,

    Vijay

    Vijayaprasath Rajendran -

    Hi Vijay!

    Uh-oh, we’re sorry to hear about the battery trouble!

    Our batteries come with a 1-year warranty, so this would definitely be something we can assist with. Please feel welcome to reach out via help.ifixit.com and provide our Support team with your order number so that they can look into these battery troubles with you.

    Thanks!

    Kadan Sharpe -

    Hi All,

    Just replaced battery, and am typing this on the live MacBook. The unit fired up as soon as I plugged in the power adapter. Nice. The battery percentage indicator said the battery had approximately 85% power charge. Is this normal? If not, what steps should I take to ensure that this battery is properly calibrated?

    Cheers,

    James

    James Pineda -

    Hi James,

    Follow these steps to calibrate your new battery: https://help.ifixit.com/article/265-batt...

    Sam Omiotek -

    日本語翻訳ありがとうございます。大変分かりやすかったです。

    １点だけ、下記タイプミスだと思います。

    カリブレーション→キャリブレーション

    kazika -

    ご指摘ありがとうございました！訂正済みです。

    Midori Doi -

    Can someone tell me which model is written in the battery? I saw that is written the model a1437. Is this model compatible with the a1425? Thanks

    mizuno.doss -

    Hi Mizuno,

    The battery model is A1437, and it is compatible with the MacBook Pro model A1425.

    Arthur Shi -

    These instructions are brilliantly concise! Thank you. And thank you everyone for your comments. As a final comment from me, it is much easier to assess the final position of the batteries if you place them gently in position, reinstall the speakers, adjust the battery position if needed and then press them firmly into place.

    John -

    Ive never done anything like this before ….took less than an hour. Everything looks good…….. Thanks IFIXIT. Save the planet fixit.

    cquirolo -

    I did everything in the kit, but my computer won’t acknowledge the battery and is only running on my power adapter. Once I take off the power adapter it shuts down. I also tried resetting the snc, but unsure if it did anything. I reopened up the back to see if I missed anything. The batteries are warm, which means they were running. I’m very confused, anybody else run into similar issues?

    Alice -

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

Autor

Sam Goldheart

Miembro Desde 19/10/12

457951 Reputación

46 comentarios

Followed this guide step by step. Very comprehensive and accurate. I would never have dared disconnect the speakers if this guide didn't show me how.

One point though. The lower left and right speaker screws had some metallic sponge on top of them. I wouldn't have known there were screws underneath.

wayne -

Excellent guide. I'm a repair technician who works on both PCs and Macs. This was my first rMBP battery replacement and I wasn't sure what to expect. For those experienced with electronics repairs, I'd say this is a relatively easy repair with the exception of releasing the adhesive which holds the battery cells to the case. I was eventually able to do it with a spudger and some elbow grease, but I was worried at times that I was going to puncture the battery. Apple really needs to dial back the strength of adhesive they use for these applications. They are clearly making it as difficult as possible for the average user to attempt, which IMO may end up costing them well informed and thoughtful customers. This setup is similar to the iPhone 6 battery (which I actually did puncture with a spudger the first time I removed one) albeit more involved to remove. In the case of the iPhone, a few minutes on the hot plate loosens it right up but this isn't really feasible in the case of the rMBP.

nick -

Thanks for this guide, I had a faulty battery and replacement by apple would be 400 euro. Now I did it myself with a replica battery for 80 euro.

Tip on prying loose the battery at step 24 and on: Use an old credit card. That worked very well for me.

roelofk -

Old Credit card works very well on Step 24. Excellent guide.

Tiny AIM -

I recommend to skip step 14 ( pry the left speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board). The risk of damaging the socket is very high. There is even a warning in this guide (Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself!).

Proceed from 13 to 15 and 16 to remove the right speaker. Still with the connector in place you can put the speaker a bit aside and have enough room to remove the battery packs in the steps later.

Same for left speaker and its connector cable (step 18).

Hint by @roelofk with old credit card is very helpful.

Excellent description and excellent pictures. Thx

Stefan Duckwitz -

Apple should not put Adhesive most specially the time you spent to remove it. Its easy but it takes time cause the adhesive is like a glue, If somebody

read this the tactic is borrow a Hair drier from your wife and heat this Bad Battery really hot and start inserting the Plastic or whatever you have underneath the Battery slowly. Apple should just put some kind of anti static foam so its easy to remove in no time theres cover anyway that foam will keep it from moving period thats it.

ricofamor -

Excellent guide, it worked very well for me, the parts and tools I purchased here made this job easy and a pleasure! Getting the batteries unstuck from their glue is the hardest part for sure, just patience and proper tools and it doesn't take too long though. Thank you so much!

Peter Weldon -

Excellent guide, but PLEASE consider changing the reported difficulty to medium (iFixit, if that's not something the author can do). The process is actually super easy, but just takes over an hour to do.

I nearly didn't do it myself after realising it was rated the same difficulty as an SSD/HDD change in an iMac (with which I cracked my screen in two places), but it isn't. This is about a 2/10 difficulty level, and that's about 9/10.

I just think it would be a shame if the reported difficulty dissuaded people from doing it, and wasted hundreds of dollars paying Apple to do it. If you can read, and have the equivalent dexterity of tying shoelaces, you can do this. :)

Also, the battery removal is a pain, but if you cut an old credit card down the middle, you have two "spudgers" you can use underneath in a turning motion (sort of like rotating a lever in-plane), while pulling it in and out. A bit of patience and you'll get each half out in about 5 minutes.

LongTimeMacUser -

Great manual! Thanks a lot. I do agree with @longtimemacuser tough, difficulty level was discouraging me. Once I read all the steps, I thought I could do it and I did it and it worked! So I believe this difficult level should be medium, it's not hard (expect for the battery adhesive), it just take a long time to do it.

rennerassis -

I had a water incident with my wife's Macbook Pro. After drying the machine it would startup on power but the battery was toast. It said the battery needed replacing. Went through this battery replacement procedure - agree with the posts above that it's not as difficult as I was expecting based on the difficulty level.

Incidentally - after battery replacement the battery charged once then after that the machine wouldn't boot at all. I eventually went through this procedure a second time then removed the logic board and the i/o board and liberally cleaned both with a 99.9% isopropyl alcohol bath. Reassembled all the components and everything works great. I assume this was due to some residual water damage and the cleaning seemed to do the trick.

Kids got a new spill resistant chromebook new and the wife's Macbook Pro is happy again.

Rand Bell -

Just replaced battery + wifi module.

Thanks a lot!

Weichen Zhao -

This was much easier than expected, and the MBP is keeping a charge just like when I pulled it out of the box 4 years ago. Like was said before, this might be the step below "difficult" unless you've got the coordination of an elephant on stilts. Thanks for the guide!

Adam Sharrow -

Very clear instructions, I followed them carefully and everything worked out fine! It was quite easy, actually.

I only improvised by using my nail polish remover (acetone) as an alternative to adhesive remove, worked as expected though :)

Margarida Dinis -

Been repairing Apple laptops on a regular basis for about 17 years now but this was my first ‘Retina Battery Adventure.’ As a long-experienced Apple tech, this really isn’t a very hard job. Just use the adhesive remover very carefully. It does all the hard work.

I bought iFixit’s ‘kit’, which turned out to be a great value; the replacement battery along with a spudger, precision tweezers, a syringe, a super-precision nozzle (for the syringe), small jar of adhesive remover (I think it’s just Acetone nail polish remover ), gloves, pry tool and pry pick, two pry cards, eye protection… oh, and a tool handle like the one in my iFixit universal toolkit, along with all the screwdriver bits required for the repair.

With all the extra pry tools and stuff, it looked like prep for a journey to the center of the earth or somethin’.... And hey, I was NOT disappointed when the job turned out to be waaay easier than implied by all the extra tooling. A nice collection of extra stuff for my kit! I now have two spudgers.

Wow.

clinton -

Did all of you remove the battery with adhesive remover or can i eventually just remove it with a credit card?

Or - as right now there isn’t any repair kit with the adhesive remover available - can I use a different adhesive remover than the one from ifixit?

John Snow -

The adhesive is just acetone….

Henrik Fricke -

I just successfully replaced my battery. I used pure acetone from the pharmacy to “melt” the glue. Afterwards you can easily (but carefully) remove it with a credit card (or similar).

John Wayne -

Easy to follow guide. Tip: Install new battery AND re-install the speakers at the same time

Rich Sammon -

Wonderfully comprehensive and easy to follow. I was able to remove the old battery and install a new one in around 1 hour. Take your time, read all of the instructions and look at all of the images a couple of times before starting. I separated all of the screws and labeled them so reassembly was a snap. Huge thanks to the author and to this site for offering the parts and detailed guide! My Mac is like new again.

Craig Temple -

I did this battery replacement this morning. If you follow the excellent instructions and take your time this is not very difficult. One thing that wasn’t covered is that the replacement battery comes attached to a piece of plexiglass to aid in the positioning of the 5 pieces of the battery. The quality control on the positioning was not perfect on mine - I had to detach half and position, then place the other half. The placement of the replacement is not covered in the instructions - but isn’t very difficult.

I recommend getting the full kit - it was complete and made the replacement go easier. My new replacement is charging to 97% and has a capacity of 6358 mAh. This is almost 1000mAh more than my original battery was reporting! My old battery was only lasting an hour, this one is reporting 4+ hours.

Thanks! Great documentation and a solid kit.

GeoffC -

Thank you for a great guide! I was a bit worried about this, as it was rated Difficult, but it was not bad at all. I have been working on computers for many years, but had never cracked this model of MBP. My 13-year old daughter assisted me with the “transplant”, and all went well. (She has repaired a few iPhones for friends.) My old battery was only lasting a little over two hours, and I hope I have a significant increase in charge time with this new battery. Changing the battery took us about two hours, the longest amount of time was dealing with the adhesive. We found that the card provided worked better than the spudger, and the cloths in the kit were perfect for getting the remaining adhesive off after removing the battery. My daughter got to learn a new skill, and is confident that she could replace the battery in her MBP.

Charlotte Seehafer -

Zunächst mal großes Erlebnis, wenn das Paket mit all dem passenden Werkzeug und dem Akku ankommt. Alles hervorragende Qualität. Mal abwarten, ob der Akku hält, was er verspricht.

Die Anleitung ist sehr gut geschrieben, allerdings klappte der Akkuwechsel wesentlich leichter, als angekündigt. Hier ist keine Zauberei erforderlich. Nur gute Vorbereitung. Was Sinn macht: Ein Foto vom offenen Laptop machen, auf DIN a 4 ausdrucken, dann kann man die Schrauben immer an die richtige Stelle legen (am besten mit Klebeband fixieren, zB. den PRITT-Roller).

Stellt Euch einen Staubsauger zur Seite mit weicher Bürste. So könnt Ihr sehr vorsichtig die Berge an angesammeltem Staub entfernen, die sich im Gerät abgelagert haben.

Ich würde einen Hinweis begrüßen, dass die Akkus beim Einbau möglichst nah an den inneren Rand eingesetzt werden, um den Einbau der Lautsprecher zu erleichtern, die sind sonst sehr unter Spannung.

Ach ja: Der Akku wird dank eigener Platine als neuer Akku erkannt und die Anzahl Ladezyklen mit 1 angegeben.

Christian F. -

Installation went great, but now my Mac isn’t recognizing the new battery. It doesn’t hold a charge and will shut off if not plugged in. Can anyone help/elaborate on this?! Also, I already reset the SMC…

Amanda Tautges -

You can find a few things to try in this thread: New replacement battery for MacBook Pro not recognised. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

This is a clear and very comprehensive guide. Just finished changing the battery to my computer.

Thank you Sam Lionheart and Ifixit, could not have done it without you. Love my IFIXIT tools!!

maria longo -

Brilliant guide. Great job - the repair was flawless. Old battery was at 5500 mAh capacity - now up to 6699 mAh!!!!!

It took me about 3 hours, because I spent a lot of time cleaning as I went. First time it was opened since 2014.

Nabil Freeman -

The instructions were very good. I was able to replace the battery using this guide. One tip is to have little cups for the small parts you remove in each step and number them with the step. When you go to put it back, you just have to look at the step number and corresponding picture you will know exactly where it goes. This will save you time from hunting for them, especially the very small ones.

AJM -

Great guide, replaced my battery in no time without any problems. Shame the Ifixit battery I bought now only has about 60% capacity after 4 of use months and 12 recharge cycles. Says Service battery again!

Scott Moncrieff -

Hi Scott,

The battery should definitely last more than that. Try calibrating the battery following the instructions below. If that doesn’t solve the issue, contact our support and we will help resolve the issue!

For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Then use your device until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

Arthur Shi -

Great guide! Thank you for publishing - just followed this to fix the battery on my mom’s computer! She loves it.

jepsen.10 -

The replacement is easy, thanks to the excellent description.

Only the adhesive foils of the replacement batteries were too weak. The batteries detached after a short time, so I had to reopen the case and use my own adhesive foils to get this fixed.

The fact that the batteries were loose was noticeable by a clattering sound.

ChristophP -

Great guide but I had one minor issue, when installing the new battery you need a note to make sure you place the two remote batteries snug top and inside or you don’t have enough room to install the speakers. I had to pull them up and restick them down.

Brian Stang -

Excellent guide. The instructions are very clear and easy to follow. I was worried about removing the adhesive and getting the battery out without damaging it but it turned about to be quite straightforward - just take your time and let the solvent do its work. Thanks.

Trevor Baxter -

Just reporting that I finished this install without disconnecting the speakers, removing the SSD, or anything else. I simply disconnected the old battery, the SSD connector, and unscrewed each speaker and gently folded them out of the way. I then used a thin spatula-like tool (that I made) to remove the old battery. A fresh razor blade makes quick work of any remaining adhesive. Only took about 45 minutes all told. Thanks, iFixIt team, for all you do for the DIY community!!

John

jiclark -

I followed these great instructions but for one point: I didn’t use acetone at all, I just used a very thin metal blade (some kind of surgical tool used by dentists) to unglue the battery packs. There is always the risk of piercing a pack but with the proper blade (thin but no cutting edge, very flexible but with a very strong inoxydable steel) it worked very well and I had the feeling that acetone was much more dangerous (just a very small drop on a circuit board could be bad, plus the strong necessity of a thorough clean afterwards to make sure the next glue won’t be dissolved by remaining acetone vapors …). And I second the very first remark, make sure to leave enough space to re-install the loudspeakers, on the left side my battery was glued 1 mm to close to the unibody side …

Pierre.

Pierre Chopot -

This guide is great. As an amateur, I found it easy to follow and replace my battery. However, the battery itself may be defective. Started at 107% and after only 7 charges the battery has gone down to 97%. Even calibrated it twice. Also the adhesive on the battery did not stick to the lower casing, so you might need to buy some double sided tape for it.

Tyefr78 -

I’m glad the replacement went well for you! If you haven’t yet, I would suggest performing an SMC reset.

Arthur Shi -

I have zero computer servicing or building experience. The instructions were great. I had no problems, EXCEPT, that the new battery wasn’t charging. After taking things apart and putting them back together for most of the day, and finding no answers online or on this website as to my issue, I finally decided to use some common sense and start messing around with the MagSafe port. Turns out that it must have disconnected during the install. I plugged it back in, and it started charging. I didn’t see a warning about this being a possibility (although I was reading the instructions from my phone so it could be there) so it probably should be pointed out. My only problem. After calibrating the battery per the instructions, at best I’m getting three hours of unplugged time (and that’s without me hearing the fans turn on. Doesn’t seem right. And after just a couple of cycles, the battery life is already at 97%. Seems like I’ll be needing another battery replacement within the next couple of years.

Carlos Ramiirez -

Excellent guide! It is even faster with the Macbook pro 13 Retina to replace the battery. Got me 1hour with cleaning.

Ruslan Strazhnyk -

Excellent instructions! And the comments at each step were helpful too.

jviggers -

Hallo zusammen,

Durch die Anleitung die perfekt erklärt wie was gemacht wird hat der wechsel des Akkus (MacBook Pro 13 Anfang 2013) in kurzer Zeit super geklappt.

Daumen hoch

Jürgen -

Did the battery swap just today. Instructions are on point. I thought this was going to be a headache but turned out to be pretty easy. The only hard thing in the whole process was removing the adhesive in step 34.

andrew vitug -

Thanks a lot, this is an excellent description on how to safely exchange the battery of my MacBook Pro 13" (early 2013, Model A1425)! However, I did skip all steps of removal of connectors other than the battery connector (see comments). Furthermore, I did not use solvent to remove the old batteries. I used bigger spudgers and some gentle force to lift the batteries off the housing. Afterwards, I used some acetone and a piece of cloth to remove the remaining film of glue. It took me about an hour (including cleaning). Everything worked absolutely perfect.

Martin Sippel -

I had great success with this project. The right tools and the excellent guide were real confidence builders. There doesn't appear to be much info about installing the new battery, but I found it is fairly critical to make sure there is room for the speakers to fit back in. There's not a lot of adjustability after the battery adhesive contacts the case, so pay attention to keeping the batteries located up towards the interior of the battery pocket, away from the outer edge where the speaker sits. It's easy to focus on getting the long section of the battery lined up so the 6 screws will fit in, and meanwhile, the four smaller battery sections are starting to stick here and there before you can put them where they go.

Overall, this was really a bit of fun pretending to be a computer geek for an hour!

Thank you for an excellent product.

Christopher

Christopher Thompson -

Die Anleitung ist super! Klar ist der Austausch den Akkus kein Pappenstiel, aber die Anleitung erklärt alles. Bei mir war der Original-Akku schon stark gebläht. Ich habe mir zehn kleine Schachteln zurecht gelegt und immer wenn ich Schrauben oder Teile ausgebaut hatte, die Sachen inkl. eines Zettels in die Box gelegt, auf dem ich die Schritt Nr. vermerkt habe. Anschließend alles in umgekehrter Richtung wieder eingebaut. Das Notebook hat sofort wieder einwandfrei funktioniert und schreibe ich diesen Kommentar damit...:-)

Peter B. -

Thanks for the guide to replace the battery. Very helpful.

Tim Poole -