Introducción

Sigue esta guía para reemplazar una batería desgastada y deteriorada en el Nintendo Switch Lite.

La Nintendo Switch Lite utiliza tornillos JIS, pero puedes usar un destornillador de cruz (Philips) si no tienes opción. Ten mucho cuidad de no barrer los tornillos. Los desarmadores de iFixit están diseñados para ser compatibles con ambos tornillos.

Para tu seguridad, descarga la batería por debajo del 25% antes de desarmar tu Switch. Esto reduce el riesgo de un evento térmico peligroso si la batería se daña accidentalmente durante la reparación. Si tu batería está hinchada, toma las precauciones adecuadas.

Nota: Este procedimiento requiere quitar la placa de protección, que está pegada al disipador de calor con pasta térmica. La pasta térmica tendrá que ser limpiada y aplicada de nuevo antes de reinstalar la placa de protección.

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    • Antes de comenzar esta reparación, asegúrate de que el dispositivo esté completamente apagado.

    • Usa un destornillador Y00 para quitar los cuatro tornillos de 6.3 mm de largo que aseguran el panel trasero.

    • A lo largo de esta reparación, mantén un registro de cada tornillo y asegúrate de que vuelva exactamente a su lugar de origen.

    All my screws got stripped any ideas on how to remove?

    Almost A Mammal -

    A Y0 screwdriver seemed to work better for me.

    Tommy Morrill -

    What type of screw driver do I use to un screw the screws and which way

    Luca Capito -

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    • Usa un destornillador JIS 000 o un Phillips 000 para remover los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el panel trasero.

    • Dos tornillos de 3.6 mm en la parte superior del dispositivo.

    • Dos tornillos de 3.6 mm en la parte inferior del dispositivo.

    • Para evitar que los tornillos muy apretados se barran aplica fuerza fírmemente hacia el tornillo y gira lentamente, intenta con varios destornilladores si no sale.

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    • Inserta una herramienta de apertura en la rejilla del altavoz izquierdo en la parte inferior del dispositivo.

    • Gira la herramienta de apertura para liberar los clips que aseguran el panel trasero.

    • Evita insertar la herramienta de apertura más de lo necesario para evitar que se dañe el módulo del altavoz.

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    • Desliza la herramienta de apertura por la esquina inferior izquierda para liberar los clips del lado izquierdo del dispositivo.

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    • Inserta la herramienta de apertura en la rejilla del altavoz derecho en la parte inferior en el dispositivo.

    • Gira la herramienta de apertura para liberar los clips.

    • Evita insertar la herramienta de apertura más de lo necesario para evitar que se dañe el módulo de altavoz.

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    • Desliza y empuja la herramienta de apertura por la esquina inferior derecha para liberar los clips del lado derecho del dispositivo.

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    • Continúa deslizando y apretando la herramienta de apertura a lo largo del hueco en la parte superior del dispositivo para liberar los clips.

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    • Levanta el borde inferior del panel trasero abriéndolo como un libro.

    • Remueve el panel trasero.

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    • Usa un destornillador JIS 000 o un Phillips (de cruz) 000 para remover los cuatro tornillos siguientes:

    • Tres tornillos de 3.1 mm

    • Un tornillo de 4.5 mm

    There are four screws instead of three mentioned

    Khurram Chaudry -

    it doesnt mention 3 anywhere, and it labels all four

    Ezi -

    With how easy it seems to be to do serious damage with the next few steps, I figured I'd say that realistically you can skip steps 9-13 when doing this repair. While they provide a bit of extra security by disconnecting the battery, the left stick is completely accessible and replaceable without touching the heat shield or anything underneath (And steps 17 and 18 disconnect power from the daughter board regardless).

    Nate -

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    • Usa un spudger o sus dedos para levantar la placa del escudo y sacarla del dispositivo.

    • Puede que sienta un poco de resistencia. Esto es normal, ya que la placa de escudo está ligeramente adherida al disipador de calor con pasta térmica.

    • Remueve la placa de escudo.

    • Limpia la pasta térmica vieja de la placa de protección y del disipador de calor con alcohol isopropílico y un paño de microfibra. Aplica la nueva pasta térmica al disipador de calor antes de volver a montarlo.

    You may need to replace the thermal paste on the heat sink.

    ahoz28 -

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    • Utiliza una herramienta de apertura o tu uña para levantar la pequeña tapa de cierre con bisagra del conector ZIF del cable de interconexión de la placa madre.

    The clip broke off when trying to remove this cable. Audio only works through headphones and the display now won’t turn on after the clip broke. Does anyone know where I could get a clip or how I could fix it without it?

    Alexz Zepeda -

  12. EOLi3GutoqJNvstI
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    • Usa un par de pinzas para sacar el cable de interconexión de su conector en la placa madre.

    I turned the unit off beforehand, I used tweezers just like the instructions said (ifixit branded) , my device sparked and now it won’t turn back on

    User Service -

    The flap came off is it important or is there a way t fix it?

    Jose Cruz R Rangel Cordero -

    We're you able to get it working without the white flap? My screen is not working after putting it back together and i noticed this white flap was falling off

    Jimmy “Ghost” Trost -

    Did you get it working without the white flap? Everything on the switch works fine except for audio going through headphones and the display not turning on.

    Alexz Zepeda -

  13. yfTkAmQeCWGhAEl2
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    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería de su zócalo en la placa madre.

    Caution the connector may not be properly soldered onto the motherboard. For me it snapped off the pins and now have to find a place to get that fixed if even possible. may have bricked it.

    Craig Osman -

    Yup, broke the connector right off the motherboard. Thanks, ifixit -_-

    Justin Kerr -

    I backed out when I reached this point. I couldn't risk damaging it. Do u just need to pull it up? Did you mean that it might have been soldered shut below?

    Jannalyzer -

    You should just need to pull straight up, but make sure you’re pulling on the wires or the gray plug—do not pull on the black socket or it can snap off of the motherboard.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I pulled straight up from the south side on under 2 or three wires and held down the device as I pulled and the gray connector disconnected from the black connector on the Switch. Just be careful at this part.

    Jon -

    With how easy it seems to be to do serious damage at this point, I figured I'd say that realistically you can skip steps 9-13 when doing this repair. While they provide a bit of extra security by disconnecting the battery, the left stick is completely accessible and replaceable without touching the heat shield or anything underneath (And steps 17 and 18 disconnect power from the daughter board regardless).

    Nate -

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    • Inclina el borde superior del dispositivo hacia arriba para permitir que el alcohol isopropílico pase por debajo de la batería.

    • Espera 1 ó 2 minutos para que el alcohol isopropílico debilite el adhesivo.

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    • Inserta una púa en el hueco entre la batería y la pared del pozo de la batería.

    • Introduce con cuidado la punta de la púa de apertura debajo de la batería y deslízalo a lo largo del borde para empezar a cortar el adhesivo.

    • Ten cuidado de no perforar ni doblar la batería con su herramienta, ya que una batería perforada o doblada puede desprender sustancias químicas peligrosas o provocar un evento térmico.

    It is not mentioned in any of the steps, but in this picture you can see that the strip that has the Volume & Power buttons is removed. I ended up tearing mine while trying to pry the battery out, so I recommend using the opening tool to release the clamp on it and to remove the piece until reassembly.

    Jacob Pierce -

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    • Deja la púa de apertura en su lugar y aplica unas gotas más de removedor de adhesivos o alcohol isopropílico dentro del pozo de la batería.

    • Inclina el borde superior del dispositivo hacia arriba y espera 1-2 minutos para que el alcohol isopropílico debilite el adhesivo.

    • Continúa deslizando la púa a lo largo del borde superior de la batería, cortando más del adhesivo debajo.

    Don't use isopropyl alcohol for this step! Too much will leak behind the battery well and damage the LCD screen, and 1-2 drops is NOT enough to loosen the adhesive here. Highly recommend getting specific adhesive remover, or using a hair dryer (cool to warm setting, no more than 60*F) to loosen the adhesive. Learn from my mistake!

    Ashley Conway -

    Just want to second Ashley’s comment here. I spent a lot of time and elbow grease prying that pick in there with IPA to no avail. I’m glad I saw their comment because with the hair dryer on medium I got the thing off in 5 minutes. Fortunately, I didn’t have the same leaking into the screen experience with the many more than a couple drops of alcohol I put behind the battery.

    Jacob Pierce -

    I read the comments too late cus I just &&^&@@ up my screen with alcohol drops.

    Nikko Lorrel Pierstorff -

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    • Una vez que haya suficiente espacio, inserta una tarjeta de plástico debajo de la batería y levanta lentamente la batería.

    • Es posible que tengas que aplicar más alcohol isopropílico si tienes dificultades para fisgonear.

    • No dobles la batería mientras haces palanca.

    • Remueve la batería.

    • No vuelvas a utilizar la pila después de haberla extraído, ya que esto puede suponer un riesgo potencial para la seguridad. Sustitúyela por una batería nueva.

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    • Usa un removedor de adhesivos o alcohol isopropílico y un paño de microfibra para limpiar cualquier resto de adhesivo que haya quedado en la batería bien antes de instalar la nueva batería.

    • Si tu nueva batería no viene con el adhesivo preinstalado, sigue esta guía para instalar el adhesivo precortado en la parte inferior de la batería.

    Now where do I get the new battery that actually fits?

    Jackson Rogers -

    It may be better to go through the screen replacement guide and remove the midframe assembly before trying to remove the battery. The amount of alcohol or acetone you will need to remove the battery will risk the screen and the plastic underneath. It's definitely more work, but the difficulty is the same if you're doing the battery replacement, just takes longer and needs more thermal paste.

    Shaun Dalrymple -

    I just want to add that removing this adhesive was a massive pain and it took me both nearly half a bottle of iFixit adhesive remover plus the hair drier trick (medium heat, about 5 min) to finally get it out. But it did finally come out.

    Brandon Wright -

Conclusión

Para volver a montar el dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

Para un rendimiento óptimo, calibra tu batería recién instalada después de completar esta guía.

Lleva tus desechos electrónicos a un R2 o reciclador certificado por e-Stewards.

¿La reparación no salió según lo planeado? Prueba con soluciones de problemas básicos, o pide ayuda a nuestra Comunidad de respuestas de Nintendo Switch Lite.

Craig Lloyd

Miembro Desde 10/02/16

30254 Reputación

14 comentarios

Hello!

I am preparing to repair my daughters nintendo switch light. It has stopped charging out of no where. I have all the tools, I just can't find the battery anywhere. Where would you recommend buying it from?

Aryana Lograsso -

If you are still looking Ifixit sells one themselves Nintendo Switch Lite Battery

Edward hett -

Thanks for the guide. Battery replacement kits are now available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-HDH-001-... (they weren’t in November! I was also looking for this during that time)

Unfortunately, the battery was much harder to remove than I expected. I did use a lot of isopropyl alcohol, but the adhesive they use really was giving me a lot of trouble. I should’ve wisened up and googled other adhesive removal methods or tried a new approach other than prying with the spudgers.

Well, now the LCD now has what looks like pressure damage in the bottom left where I’d imagine a lot of the prying pressure went. It is much more noticeable when the screen goes all-white, and not too bad with darker colors.

I don’t blame iFixit for my mistake of course, and it is really disappointing that Nintendo used the amount of adhesive that they did. But I hope this comment can serve as a warning to others attempting this repair to be more gentle even if it’s refusing to come off.

vmgm -

Yikes! Sorry to hear this. How did you pry with the spudger exactly? If you kept it around the top edge of the battery well then I would assume it wouldn’t damage the screen, but if you inserted the end of the spudger deeper in the battery well and used that point as the fulcrum, then I could see that putting a lot of pressure on the back of the LCD.

Craig Lloyd -

@craiglloyd I did an embarrassing amount of spudger prying pretty much everywhere along the top/bottom of the battery, I actually broke a few spudger tips in the process so that might reveal something about my approach…

But, I’m starting to think it may not be LCD damage after all, but rather some isopropyl alcohol caught behind the screen– During my prying, the Switch case was getting pretty heavily warped, so maybe some of the alcohol (that I definitely used in excess) slipped in and got sandwiched under the screen? I started to notice this since the blotches seem like they’ve moved over time. Here’s an image of the screen now https://imgur.com/DjYmFnJ (and the dark gray blotch along the leftside isn’t a shadow, white spots in bottom left I thought were pressure damage)

It’s still very usable / not noticeable on black colors and thanks again for the guide! I can give the screen more time to see if it improves at all, or maybe try going back in and trying to see it is trapped alcohol that can be released

vmgm -

Have the marks faded over time? We have had the ame issue and believe it is the isopropyl alcohol :/ we didn't use loads but found there was a gap at the bottom of where the battery is held which clearly let some of the alcohol through. I'm really hoping it will evaporate over time but not sure :/

Bryony Ellis -

Sadly no, the marks are still there, and haven’t been motivated to try to fix yet. I’ve seen some videos online where people can coerce trapped isopropyl alcohol out without having to take a screen apart, but have been hesitant to try out some of the methods.

vmgm -

Any way of fixing the discolored left corner screen issues? I did a battery replacement and a very small portion of the lower left color is discolored.

Mike -

I ended up with the same alcohol damage on the bottom left of the screen as some of the other comments here. Don’t use alcohol or if you do use VERY VERY little. I didn’t think I used much.

pixi -

Thanks for the detailed procedure. I followed the guide closely except for the battery removal procedure. The battery module is wrapped in foil backed plastic. This is easy to slice around the battery edges with an exacto knife. Once it is free, I could lever the battery module out of the bay. Then, I was able to trim the foil outer wrap into strips with the knife and peel it away in pieces. Now I am ready to install my new battery as soon as it arrives.

nickmoore72 -

Same problem here with the Isoproponol which has left my sons screen really discoloured.

Can I suggest you update this tear down as I have always relied on Ifixit for both tool kits and guides and it is a shame that this has left my sons switch damaged. I do expect a bit better of a company that sells parts and tools to do this stuff.

Thanks however for the brilliant Ifixit tool kits.

Adrian Trise -

after changing the battery I have gotten the 2101-0001 error code, how do i fix this?

Abby Brandt -

What kind of thermal paste are we to use?

Jonathan Bell -

réparation super facile, juste un peu de patience avec l'alcool isopropylique, mais sinon, rien de plus simple à remplacer :D

vendramelionel -