Reemplazo de la fuente de alimentación del iMac Intel 27" EMC 2639

Paso 1

Con la bisagra libre para moverse, el iMac estará desequilibrado y será difícil de trabajar en él. Las reparaciones se pueden completar con el iMac desequilibrado, pero son más rápidas y fáciles con una cuña de servicio iMac.
Si estás usando la tarjeta de servicio de iFixit, sigue estas instrucciones de montaje para armarlo.

This instruction page is not clear and is ambiguous if you have to do all the steps to just change the power supply please clarify another words do I have to remove the speaker and the hard drive to replace the power supply?

crawfordjohn -

This is a display removal guide not the power supply guide!Here’s the guide you need to follow for that Reemplazo de la fuente de alimentación del iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546

Dan -

Didn’t need the cardboard wedge to remove the display. Waste of money. Lay your Mac on its back.

James Clive -

Paso 2

Comenzando a la izquierda de la pantalla, cerca del botón de encendido, inserta la herramienta de apertura iMac en el espacio entre el panel de vidrio y la carcasa trasera.
El centro de la herramienta de apertura iMac evitará que empujes demasiado la rueda. Si utilizas una herramienta diferente, inserta no más de 9.5 mm en la pantalla. Se corre el riesgo de cortar los cables de la antena y causar daños graves.

Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

Clark Green - 31/08/17

A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

Dan - 01/12/17

Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac). If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8. Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest. The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges. The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power. The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

Walter Hayden - 29/12/17

Continuing from my previous comment. To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room. Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera. Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free. Now slowly move towards the right side. After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap. Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut. You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure. Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting. Follow this approach all the way around the right side. Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time. Good Luck!.

Walter Hayden - 29/12/17

I can confirm with Walter - trying to remove freshly applied adhesive is WAAAAY harder! My pizza cutter didn’t work correctly (the circle became a rectangle!) and I ended up with a small crack on the left of my screen. Dang it!

Benon Koebsch - 08/05/19

I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

Luke Gibson - 29/03/18

I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

Anthony Zimmerman - 10/04/18

Don’t know if you are still around, but THANK YOU for posting this video! The video made it seem SO NOT SCARY and, in conjunction with the photos and comments and tips on this guide, was a lifesaver. Big thumbs up.

Melissa Ortiz - 27/07/20

First impressions so far: yes it can be a bit nerve wrecking if it is your first time doing this sort of thing and even with lots of experience with a 2011 model it’s still a bit unsettling haha (nervous laughter).

What I recommend: use a guitar pick to start cutting the glue. You’ll need a bit of pressure so do just the tip.

Once you’ve done the whole perimeter (minus bottom) do it again but now it should be easier to go deeper so go very slow and careful. Then get the old suction cups used to open older models and start lifting the display very carefully to see where it’s still glued and cut those as well.

Then you should be done and now the real fun begins! :D

Carlos Ferrari - 02/04/19

It’s ridiculous. Apple should pay for doing this. Like glue parts together to block a repair / make difficult. I smashed my iMac. FU Apple. Seriously, every product I owned had hardware issues. For example, bad solder joints. Never again Apple. I’m happy with Windows and in 2018 / 2019 there are many other manufacturers with high quality stuff. Apple is dying, if they do not change …

Depple - 10/04/19

NOTE: I followed every step word for word, but the adhesive strips supplied are as bad as double sided tape. Within 48hours the screen had slipped off and cracked. Now I need to fork out for a new screen and try again.

Not sure what to try next time with strips? Perhaps a bit of glue to help hold it??

Dan Kelly - 17/07/19

Where do i get the “iMac Opening Tool?” its neither in the list of tools nor could i find it on the tool page.

Patrick Cella - 04/09/19

Hi @snappadoodle! The opening tool is included in the adhesive kit included in the tool list, but you can purchase it separately here.

Sam Goldheart - 05/09/19

After disconnecting the power cord and before cutting the panel adhesive, push and hold the power button for 10 seconds. This will discharge the power supply capacitors. In case you accidentally touch the solder joints on the board, you won't be shocked and drop the panel.

Paul Floro - 03/02/20

Bottom line: This repair seems to have worked (so far no more intermittent shut-downs). Thanks iFixit!

As a novice who fully expected to destroy the display or worse, I make the following recommendations: (1) Before you start, read the steps several (many) times; visualize doing them and imagine how things could go wrong; (2) Read all the comments—there were some really helpful tips—like simply displacing the left speaker rather than fully removing it; (3) Get the recommended tools*; and (4) take your time—if you start to feel frustrated—seriously, stop and take a calming breath. Time is your friend. Failure is not an option.

*I would add a 3-prong parts puller to the tool list—it’s great for pulling and starting loose screws so you don’t drop them down into the chassis like I did. It’s also great for retrieving the screws you’ve dropped into the chassis.

Brad Bauknecht - 16/07/20

Hi brad, what exactly did you repair to stop the shutdowns? I’m having the same issue

merinian - 08/09/20

Merinian: I replaced the power supply and it’s still working fine at this late date. No more intermittent shut-downs. Fingers still crossed!

Brad Bauknecht - 16/02/21

Just completed the Core i5 to i7 CPU upgrade and can strongly recommend getting the “pizza tool” to cut the display adhesive. It worked flawlessly and was done in less than 5 minutes. No inadvertent cables cut. No display problems.

John Fisk - 14/08/20

Thank you very much for the instructive tutorial. I just successfully replaced the hard drive on my 2012 iMac 27. I used a disposable surgical scalpel 15 blade, and locked the blade extending 9 mm from the scalpel shaft using office tape. I used regular double sided tape to reattach the screen. I cut the strips using the scalpel. I have no previous computer experience and this is the first time I replaced a computer part. This was easy and fun.

Filip Dolatowski - Friday 11th Dec 2020

Filip Dolatowski - 11/12/20

You are very lucky! I’ve had three systems come in which someone did the exact same thing! All three cut the display ribbon cables. Please don’t use surgical knifes or any other knife! Use the proper tool the special pizza cutter wheel designed for the task.

.

You likely spent more on the knifes than what the wheel cost with the correct tapes. You make the next time doubly hard to open not using the correct tapes! Hows the built in microphone? You may have messed it up.

Dan - 11/12/20

Thank you very much for the tutorial. You are the best!

After reading all the post here I almost gave up doing this on my own. But I did it anyway and was succesful. I would recommend everyone to use the rollcutter. There is no risk of harming the screen if you use it. And in my case it was enough to open the imac. If you do not harm the screen connector or the screen the biggest part is done. It gets easier once you`ve stacked your screen somewhere safe. The parts inside are mostely not as delicate as the heavy and expensive screen!

Take your time and work carefully. It is definitely doable!

CONSULTINEL - 10/03/21

I found the cutter tool that came with my kit to work just fine. The wheel is extremely thin and I had no problem inserting the wheel to begin cutting. I follow the guide for the most part but took my time and use the cutting wheel slowly and then repeated the process a few times. Once I was able to pry the screen back about an inch I used the other end of the tool to cut additional adhesive that was still clinging to the body of the iMac and the screen. Having just replaced the power supply, and having my iMac running again, I do not think I will use the adhesive strips to reattach the screen. The screen fit back in place no problem which I did to test my Mac. Because the iMac screen sits at an angle I am quite comfortable that the screen is not gonna fall off. Also while having a screen off I was able to clean the inside of the Mac of dust buildup. I think I will only use the adhesive strips down the road if I’m gonna sell the Mac, which means I can give it a good clean before securing the screen.

James Orwin -

If the screen falls off (which it will do!) it will damage the parts which would be a lot more expensive! PLEASE get the correct tapes and properly mount the screen back on.

Think of it this way how many people have shot them selves with a gun not realizing it was loaded or set to go off!

Dan -

I think Dan is right as I decided it best to complete the process with the adhesive tapes to secure the screen. I just took some time to do a complete clean of the interior before sealing the display.

James Orwin -

Paso 3

Use la herramienta como un cortador de pizza: gíralo a lo largo del espacio y cortará el adhesivo de espuma a través del centro.
Asegúrate de empujar siempre con la manija detrás de la rueda de corte. Si tiras, la rueda podría salirse del mango.
Ejecuta la herramienta hacia arriba a lo largo del lado izquierdo de la pantalla.

I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

Gerry - 24/10/16

In my experience the cutter also worked very well for cutting the original adhesive. Unfortunately when I was reinstalling the display with the new adhesive strips, somehow the display power connector came loose. I had to open the display a second time and the cutter was not as effective against the new adhesive. I managed to break the cutter tool plastic wheel and cause a few small cracks in the edge of the displays glass as I worked! Be careful and go slowly!

azaadkb - 21/01/20

The cutting tool worked great until I accidentally twisted it a bit while rounding a corner. A chunk of the wheel snapped off, making the rest of the job quite a bit more challenging. Just make sure you are keeping the tool directly parallel with the screen.

BARRY RODRIGUEZ - 22/02/20

I concur, opening the screen a 2nd time is considerably more difficult because the adhesive strips are thinner than the original, which makes getting the cutting tool inserted much more difficult….as a result unknowingly I elongated a small crack to a much longer crack and somehow, the LCD now has a wide grey strip from top to bottom….The first time opening was easy, second time resulted in a ruined screen.. The cost of. a replacement LCD is the same has replacing the entire computer….I would recommend anyone attempting to remove the screen for any reason, do not use the aftermarket adhesive strips if you ever intend to open it up; again, or cut the strips much shorter, or possibly use a few pieces of scotch tape or similar to hold the screen in place….since the screen tilts back, this should not be a problem…Good luck…

S. Baxter - 16/01/21

Paso 4

Continúa girando la herramienta hacia arriba en la esquina superior izquierda.

Paso 5

Corta el adhesivo a lo largo de la esquina superior izquierda de la pantalla.

The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

Anthony Zimmerman - 10/04/18

Paso 6

Continúa por la parte superior de la pantalla.
Es posible que desee ejecutar la herramienta hacia adelante y hacia atrás a través de lo que ya ha cortado un par de veces, para asegurarse de obtener la mayor cantidad de adhesivo separado como sea posible.

what about the part where the camera is though? do I just treat it like the rest of the screen?

Boris - 16/05/20

yes. the tool can’t go too deep

flow in - 25/05/20

I measured a depth several positions.

- About 6 centimeters near iSight Camera center, you must no use iMac opening tool, because iSight element exists.

- iMac opening tool has a 9mm radius, so it may break iSight camera element.

- Making a plastic card stacking 2 or 3 to 3mm, under the iMac opening tool, that makes inserting a gap 5~6mm like below.

@. iMac opening tool

====== plastic card3 (credit card 1mm)

====== plastic card2 (1mm)

====== platic card1. (1mm)

———————————————— isight camera element (total 5~6cm) ————

In my case, i got a display problem where lcd display yellow connector was torn without care.

Be helpful.

KWANGBOK, LEE - 21/11/20

Paso 7

Empuje la herramienta alrededor de la esquina superior derecha de la pantalla.

Paso 8

Mueva la herramienta hacia abajo a lo largo del lado derecho de la pantalla.

Paso 9

Finalice empujando la herramienta de apertura hacia la parte inferior del lado derecho de la pantalla.
En este punto, querrá volver a ejecutar la herramienta en toda la pantalla para asegurarse de cortar la mayor cantidad de adhesivo posible.

I didn’t have the fancy cutter or cards. So I used my actual pizza cutter. Followed directions just the same, and it easily cut through the adhesive w/o issues or marring the surfaces. Actually used it to rock back and forth to lift the screen. It’s all about taking your time. I rolled it back and further until cut thru. The 3/8 to 1/4 inch is right, but the screen framing actually prevents further depth unless you force it further. The adhesive actually protected the glass while cutting thru, so no damage. Great instructions, but where to get the replacement adhesive to reinstall?? Should be four independent strips.

Keith Thomas -

You are very lucky you didn't cut to deep! The plastic cutter that's in the kit is the only thing I would use. Spending a few bucks on a tool is a lot cheaper than $500 for a new display!

Please don't use a real pizza cutter!

Dan -

Paso 10

Si bien la herramienta de apertura hizo la mayor parte del trabajo, la pantalla aún se adherirá ligeramente a la carcasa. Se necesitará una tarjeta de plástico para liberar el último adhesivo.
Coloca el iMac boca arriba en una mesa.
Comenzando desde la esquina superior derecha del iMac, inserta una tarjeta de plástico entre la pantalla y el marco.
Ten cuidado de no insertarlo más de 9.5 mm o podrías dañar los componentes internos.

I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

Peter Fischer - 30/06/17

Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

Edgar Broekema - 17/11/17

i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

Eugene Kharkov - 25/12/17

I broke one too. And even if you think you did it correctly, you’ll not be able to see where you might have gone too far. You would think it’s very protected behind that metal plate, but no. Take special care with this offence to “right to repair” This should have been designed WAY better. I mean replacing a hardrive that is very likely to fail over the course of time, or even a simple desire to upgrade to an ssd!.

Bummer

Denis Sytmen - 19/01/19

HINT: If you turn the card and use the blue part of it, then you can avoid going to deep: no further then the blue part …

Barthold - 07/10/19

On the cards I got with my iFixit kit, the blue part was way bigger than 9.5mm — closer to 20mm!

I made a line 9mm from the edge of each of my cards and used that as a guide.

Damian Chadwick - 20/04/20

I’m thinking I might just use vinyl tape to keep the screen in place for at least a little while after an upgrade. The extra strength of the replacement tape sounds scary.

Art Hackett - 26/10/19

I wrapped two layers of vinyl electrical tape around the short side of an old gift card 3/8” from the edge. This “stop" prevented the card from going in too far. The card really helps to break the panel free.

Paul Floro - 03/02/20

This is a good tip!

Lennart Saaf - 20/10/20

Great idea! Wish I had read this before doing it. My less then optimal solution was to draw lines 3/8” around the cards, not as safe as your fix, but fast.

Michael Piplani - 03/01/21

Umm.. I’m not sure that I’d recommend using a repurposed credit card to open the display - I found that using the “pizza tool” to cut the old adhesive then using a pair of suction cups to gently pull the display up worked perfectly well.

John Fisk - 14/08/20

surely the card should have been designed such not to go further than certain distance with a barrier band.

S Hussain - 21/10/20

The cards don’t have any means to control the depth, its your skills which control it. Its no different from how you use a knife to cut your chicken up when you serve it for dinner.

Dan - 03/01/21

The pizza roller tool is enough to cut through the adhesive. You dont need to cut in a lot further. So the cards are really not necessary.

sebastian.wittl - 07/03/21

might be a stupid question but would credit cards or state ids work too?

John Ta -

You need the pizza cutter! The cards are used to hold the display off of the case frame.

As for as using old credit cards and useless ID cards sure they will work. I wouldn’t use anything important ;-}

Dan -

No problems. I used two old credit cards and marked out a line using permanent marker so it was at the same depth as stipulated on this page. I even pushed it in a little deeper and no issues.

James Clive -

Paso 11

Gira suavemente la tarjeta de plástico para abrir el espacio entre la pantalla y el marco, y corta cualquier resto de adhesivo en la esquina.
Si usas demasiada fuerza, romperás el cristal. Trabaja con cuidado, y no intentes hacer un espacio de más de 6 mm.

My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

Anthony Zimmerman - 10/04/18

Paso 12

Asegúrese de detener el corte antes de la cámara iSight en este paso, o puede dañarlo.
Deslice la tarjeta hacia el centro de la pantalla para cortar el adhesivo restante.

was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

Julia S. - 05/08/18

Paso 13

Vuelva a colocar la tarjeta en la esquina y déjela allí para evitar que se reubique el adhesivo.

Paso 14

Inserta una segunda tarjeta en el espacio entre la pantalla y el marco en la esquina superior izquierda.

Paso 15

Gire suavemente la tarjeta, aumentando ligeramente el espacio entre la pantalla y el marco.
Al igual que con el otro lado, muévase lentamente para permitir que se rompa el adhesivo, y tenga cuidado de no sobre tensar el cristal de la pantalla.

Paso 16

Deslice la tarjeta de plástico hacia el centro, deteniéndose de nuevo justo antes de la cámara iSight.

Paso 17

Inserta la tarjeta nuevamente en la esquina superior izquierda.

Paso 18

Solo levante la pantalla unas pulgadas; todavía está conectada al iMac mediante cables de datos y alimentación.
Con las tarjetas insertadas como se muestra cerca de las esquinas, gire suavemente las tarjetas para aumentar el espacio entre la pantalla y la carcasa.
Si hay secciones que parecen pegarse y no se separan, deje de girar y use una de las tarjetas para cortar el adhesivo en el área problemática.
Comience a levantar la parte superior de la pantalla desde el marco.

I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

Marco De Palma - 21/07/18

I would strongly recommend using suction cups

Luca Mucci - 24/02/20

Agreed about the suction cups. An extra pair of hands might be good here as well.

Damian Chadwick - 20/04/20

I agree, I’m using iFixit suction cups right now.

tanner85 - 21/08/20

Go very slowly when lifting the display – give time for the adhesive at the bottom edge to stretch and flow. If you lift too fast, the glass can crack. That’s what happened for me.

Gerry - 17/10/20

The stickiest location on my iMac was the mid-to-lower section of the right side. There are a couple of thicker areas that needed attention from the plastic cards.

Lennart Saaf - 20/10/20

This is the step where I cracked the screen.

HABEEB102 - 05/12/20

Did you use the pizza cutter tool first?

Dan - 05/12/20

WARNING!!! This is where you can crack you screen. TAKE YOUR TIME! Everything work fine for me because I took my time. I was very shocked at how fragile the screen is. It does have a small amount of flex but don’t push your luck. There were two things that made this easy for me #1 Once you have used the cutting wheel to your best judgement to cut the adhesive, start using the iFixIt plastic cards as spacers and space them evenly around the screen. I used 10 individual cards of and gently moved them up and down at each section two at a time. Once I started having less resistance, I combined 2(i.e. 5 sets total) cards evenly space to allow for move rigid and stronger movement to separate the screen. This really helped me to free up more adhesive. #2 before lifting the screen up fully, use tweezers to pull the adhesive like a string from around the entire monitor. This will make lifting the screen much easier since all adhesive will be removed. Finally when lifting the screen use the cards with your hands under them.

Andrew Phillips - 10/10/21

Would any of you consider the possibility of heating the glass with a hot-air fan before starting the process? In that way, the adhesive would let the screen go easier, I think.

ManuG -

The type of tape has a lot to do with it. If the original tapes are still present then the pizza tool slices through the thin foam core of the tape so heating is not needed. If on the other hand someone replaced the tapes with just regular double sided tapes then there is no foam core to split and there is a sizable risk the display will get damaged in the process of taking it off. So sure in this case a bit of heat might help, just be aware the LCD panel area is quite close to the edge along the top three sides so you also have the risk of dating it from over heating!

Dan -

Paso 19

Mientras sostiene la pantalla con una mano, use la otra para desconectar el cable de alimentación de la pantalla.
Levante la pantalla lo suficiente para tener un acceso fácil a las conexiones, pero no tanto que estire los cables y acentúe sus conexiones (aproximadamente 8 ").

Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

Alastair Lack - 04/02/17

At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

Luke Gibson - 29/03/18

Quote - "Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility" You cannot be serious can you? So because someone attempted to repair their own Apple device that they OWN, you are saying that they may/will be locked out of using any Apple repair service again? Ridiculous claim sorry.

Peter Newman - 10/11/22

The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

Ed tabickman - 30/03/18

Is it possible to replace the power cable if its damaged? I can’t seem to find anything about this.

Joseph Orr - 26/02/19

After finishing my hard drive replacement I reconnected these connectors to test my display before using new adhesive. Everything was working beautifully. But then when I applied the new adhesive and went to seal the display on for good - the display power cable somehow became disconnected! I had to reopen the Mac for a second time which was far more difficult with new adhesive. When reinstalling double and triple check that the cables are securely inserted before the final seal. Sounds obvious but it’s quite the annoyance if something goes wrong at this point.

azaadkb - 21/01/20

Very difficult to work with these connectors.

Power cable very difficult to unplug - data cable veeeeery difficult to plug in.

I noticed that working with the iMac positioned vertically (and with a proper support for inclination) makes this step slightly easier…

Luca Mucci - 24/02/20

Interesting comments.. personally, I didn’t find the cables particularly difficult to detach and reattach. You do have to be patient and gentle. Personally, I found that a rolled up beach towel gently wedged between the unit and back of the display helped keep the glass up. Also, a small flashlight can be helpful to see the cables and connectors if you’re lighting isn’t perfect.

John Fisk - 14/08/20

I’d agree to John - not overly difficult. My workaround was to prep the screen for re-installation and then place it in front of the standing machine. The cables are long and flexible enough to be put in place even in this state. You can easily attach the cables and continue with fixing the screen to the housing.

stefan - 16/11/20

I would not recommend doing this step as pictured. The cable you are removing has little tabs on the wide side that can be depressed inwards towards the center of the connector, releasing the cable. If you just grab the cable as pictured and yank it out, without depressing the side tabs, you are likely to damage something. Don’t pull on the wires, use your fingernails at the connector to squeeze the very small little tabs inward to release the cable from the connector.

maccentric - 02/02/21

The removal of the LCD power cable does require the left and right sides to be squeezed inwards towards each other first before removing, why this isn’t mentioned in the take apart can lead to damaging the iMac.

robert -

I agree with maccentric. DO NOT just pull the power cable. Use your fingernail or spudger and gently press the tiny notch inward and towards you gently and one side will disengage. Do the same for the other side and it will slide right out. The notches just have enough edge to catch your nail or spudger. Using your nail is better as you can better feel when you have caught the edge and can feel the cable move.

Andrew Phillips -

I lifted the display a few inches up and propped it open in the middle using my iPhone in portrait mode with its torch on. Did the job nicely:

James Clive -

Paso 20

Levante el soporte de retención de metal en el cable de datos de la pantalla.
Desconecte el cable de datos de la pantalla.
Esta es una conexión delicada que se puede romper fácilmente. Asegúrese de sacar el conector del cable de datos de la pantalla directamente de su zócalo, hacia la parte superior del iMac.

I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

chansung park - 07/10/16

Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

Dan - 01/12/17

Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

redfoxydarrest - 12/11/16

Sorry damaged display

Dan - 01/12/17

I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

john - 26/06/17

I agree! +1

Jim Reitz - 29/06/17

Yes, John is absolutely correct on this one. I damaged the display cable trying to get it back in. A close up would have helped and now my computer might have actually been fixed.

Marsha Giardina - 07/03/19

[|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

Jim Kelly - 28/02/18

Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

Sam Goldheart - 06/03/18

At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

Luke Gibson - 29/03/18

Can anybody upload an image of how the display can get damaged from removing it? I find it hard to believe (though I’m reading the horror stories here) that a whole display can get damaged. Especially when many of us were following to a T and being VERY CAREFUL.

Thanks.

Bryan - 14/10/18

First: During reassembly, I highly recommend you connect these cables and do a test boot BEFORE you remove the protective tape on the adhesive strips. That way you can fix any issues(like a damaged cable) if something is not right and you have not re-glued the screen back down which will cause a problem. If you have a second person and everything is working after test boot, you can just leave the cables connected, lift the bottom of the screen and have 2nd person pull the protective tape on the adhesive strips and you can set the screen in place. Second I damaged the video data cable during reassembly on my late 2015 iMac- I did not get the connector straight and I damaged the wires on the cable. I recommend you have someone else hold the screen while you attach the cables - they are fragile. Luckily, the data cable was easily replaced for only about $20. If you must do this by yourself, just be careful I highly recommend have 2 people at this step during reassembly.

Chip T - 10/07/19

At least on my “late 2013” model, the smaller display cable connector has tiny, tiny clips on the outside edges. These must be squeezed to unlatch it. Don't pull on the cable itself or the wires can be pulled out. Even with my small fingers, it was hard to grip the clips. When reconnecting, the connector will lightly snap into place.

Paul Floro - 03/02/20

I managed this step without any problems, but I had my wife hold the screen up while I disconnected/connected the cables. I STRONGLY encourage another pair of hands here so you can focus your full attention on being ultra careful with the cables.

BARRY RODRIGUEZ - 22/02/20

On the 2015 there are 2 cables.

1. Once the display is loose use the Mac foam block sold from Ifixit to keep the display from rocking to hold open the glass

2. Blow out dust with canned air

3. Get a flash light and small flat edged screw driver

4. Use the screw driver to slow pry loose the connector from the socket by gently inserting it in the gap on the left and then on the right slowly easing the connector from the socket towards the top of the glass

5. The more center connector has a pull tape and a wire loop. Lift pull tape and the wire loop will raise up.

6. Pull the wire loop towards the top of the glass to slide out the connector from its socket

Anthony Crocker - 29/02/20

Good instructions except for the screwdriver - try and use a plastic spudger instead ! Also, getting a headworn LED light makes life a bit easier.

Philip Sedlmair -

Have a late 2013 model and went to do the SSD upgrade. When going to remove the display we cracked the bottom left corner of the glass (just the glass frame part - not part of the screen that displays anything). We were also having difficulty putting re-attaching the display flex cable. Whenever we finally went to test it before re-sealing the screen back on with new adhesive it would sound like it is turning on as it makes boot-up noises and the fans start running, but the screen would just remain black. Just wondering if the crack in the bottom left-hand side of the glass/display would have damaged a part of the display assembly or if it would be more likely that we just damaged the display flex cable (which can be replaced for $26)?

Zach Tweel - 19/04/20

Did you get to the bottom.of this?

paul.lynch1 - 05/03/21

does anybody know how the Display Cabel pin assignment is? I want to try if I can attach the Panel to another grafic card

Marco Rizzo-Scheible - 11/05/20

I’ve completed the upgrade to SSD, but while restarting my screen remains black. As if no connected.

I assume I broke the sensitive connector.

—> how to order a spare?

Durain - 25/10/20

Did you get to the bottom of this?.

paul.lynch1 - 05/03/21

is the display assembly of 2015’s the same as 2017’s?

zenu -

No! Apple loves to mess us up!

Dan -

The panels are different since technology progresses at a rapid pace and Apple does like to be on bleeding edge of things. When they do a manufacturing run of screens, there will be a few years that will have the same screen. I believe 2017 is when they introduced the higher resolution panels. Everything from 2012 late to 2015 should be the same though.

Philip Sedlmair -

That display cable connector is common to many Macs of the 2012 era. I’ve destroyed 2 in 38 years of servicing all types of computer equipment.

As stated, there is a latch on this connector. If you put any incorrect force on the cable or connector during disassembly or reassembly, you will break the cable and possibly the connector. The cables can be purchased online and the video connector on the display is exactly the same.

I repeat, if you pull out on the video cable after it has been unlatched instead of parallel to the logic board, YOU WILL BREAK IT.

James Hendrickson -

Paso 21

Levante la pantalla hasta una posición casi vertical.
En este punto, todavía hay una tira de adhesivo en la parte inferior de la pantalla, que mantendrá la pantalla en el marco como una bisagra. Puede aflojar este adhesivo al subir y bajar la pantalla varias veces.
Retire la mayor cantidad de adhesivo posible agarrándolo por los bordes exteriores, y luego tirando o rodando hacia el centro.

Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

dforgues - 07/06/17

Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

David Zemsky - 23/06/17

Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

Peter Haigh - 19/04/18

There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

Todd Derek - 29/05/18

Are you sure your trying to remove a late 2013 model A1419 display assembly?

robert -

The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

Andrew Stephens - 10/08/18

Niemals den unteren Klebestreifen mit einem scharfen Gegenstand wie Rasierklinge oder so versuchen zu trennen, davon geht die Beschichtung des Displays kaputt und man hat hässliche Streifen unten hinter dem Glas. Stattdessen lieber versuchen, das Display nach oben zu klappen und abzuziehen.

Bas ti - 19/03/20

translation from Bas Ti because this is very important:

Never try to separate the bottom adhesive strip with a sharp object such as a razor blade or something, the coating on the display will break and you will have ugly strips at the bottom behind the glass. Instead, try to flip up and pull off the display.

Kurt Grootjans - 14/06/20

If you are just replacing the hard drive, I have found that it is quite possible to do while leaving the screen connected, making the process much easier. The amount you need to tilt the screen to access the little pull tabs at the bottom to release the screen is also sufficient to access the drive. I remove the drive while the iMac is upright. I also heat up the bottom of the screen to soften the glue and to help with the possibility of the glass cracking while doing this step.

maccentric - 02/02/21

Very dangerous! You’ll stress the cables and the logic board connectors.

Dan - 02/02/21

I meant that you can leave the bottom strip of adhesive attached; you still need to disconnect the 2 cables.

maccentric -

As mentioned before you can pull out the lower adhesive strip. Dont cut it or move the display up and down. This is even more dangerous. On the lower side of mac where the display glass ends is a offset. When moving the display up and down you might crack it over that offset.

sebastian.wittl - 07/03/21

When removing the adhesive from the top of the screen, be sure to start at the iSight camera location (= in the middle). If you start at an upper egde of the glass (side doesn’t matter) towards the middle, you risk removing the black background foil from the screen, which will result in ugly stripes behind the glass.

christopher.winter -

Paso 22

Ten mucho cuidado de no tocar los cables del condensador ni las juntas de soldadura expuestas en la parte posterior de la fuente de alimentación (enmarcadas en rojo).
Si es necesario, se puede usar una tarjeta de plástico para cortar las secciones restantes de la tira adhesiva inferior.

Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

Wizbang FL - 06/05/16

you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

Thomas Webb - 02/09/17

What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

Eric - 31/10/17

[|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

John Warmann - 17/02/18

You probably had just an SSD installed and no HD, which is on the opposite side of the motherboard (and quite a bit more work to access).

maccentric - 07/11/20

Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

Charlie Nancarrow - 22/03/18

J’ai réussi à intervenir dans l’iMac sans décoller l’ensemble de l’écran. Je l’ai ouvert en laissant la dernière partie collée (vers le logo Apple) et qui sert comme une charnière. Bien calé et assuré l’écran n’a pas bougé et j’ai pu changer mon disque dur facilement. Le grand avantage et d’avoir l’écran toute suite juste quand on le recolle par la suite.

David Mariaux - 13/04/19

Well, I of course touched a soldering point in the red area as my hand slipped. I heard and felt a tiny “click” and after replacing the HDD with SSD etc I can not power the iMac up anymore. Not a sign of life :-( I suppose I broke the power supply. Can someone confirm? Or could something else have broken too?

David Rosner - 06/10/19

@john - there’s a slot on the back of the motherboard for a storage stick. fancy

flow in - 25/05/20

I took my time and pulled both tabs slowly gently. Easily removed and glass came right off.

Keith Thomas -

Paso 23

Ten mucho cuidado al manipular la pantalla: es grande, pesada y está hecha de vidrio. Además, tiene bordes frágiles. Evita levantar la pantalla por las esquinas.
Levanta la pantalla del marco y retírela del iMac. Coloca la pantalla hacia abajo en una superficie plana y suave.
Podría ser necesario levantar lentamente de un lado, para poder eliminar el adhesivo restante.
Después de haber cortado el adhesivo, no podrás reutilizarlo para volver a sellar la pantalla en su posición original. Sigue esta guía al completar su reparación para remplazar las tiras de adhesivo que podrán asegurar la pantalla de nuevo a la carcasa trasera.

You really should be using film handling or surgical type gloves to handle the screen to minimise finger grease on any of it. Even if it’s possible to clean most of it off, it can be corrosive over time.

Art Hackett - 26/10/19

Use a large suction cup and latex gloves for this:

https://www.amazon.com/FCHO-Suction-Alum...

Philip Sedlmair -

Paso 24

Si estás remplazando la pantalla, puede ser que necesites transferir más componentes desde el panel antiguo al nuevo. Compara la parte trasera de la pantalla antigua y la nueva pantalla. Anota qué cables, sensores y cojines de acolchamiento no están presentes en la nueva pantalla.
Si hay un alambre o cable debajo de una cinta adhesiva, siempre separa la cinta primero.
Si el cable está pegado a la estructura, usa un iOpener calentado o un secador de pelo primero para soltar el adhesivo. Entonces podrás introducir una púa de apertura por debajo del cable para aflojarlo. Nunca tires directamente de los conectores delicados.
Desliza una púa de apertura por debajo de los cojines de acolchamiento para separarlos de la pantalla, y tira de ellos con cuidado. Podrías necesitar algo de cinta de doble cara para unirlos a la nueva pantalla.

Be extremely careful removing the LCD Temp Sensor from the rear of the screen. If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact. Use a razor blade so “shave off” the sensor under the adhesive. I just had the screen replaced by a local shop and, upon boot, the fan was running full-speed and the Mac’s speed was miserable; Excel took 30 bounces in the Dock to launch rather than the expected 4-5. Novabench showed the Mac running at 4% of its expected speed (overall). The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the (partially disconnected) sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. No problem controlling the fan speed then but the iMac’s running speed was awful until the disconnected sensor wire was fixed.

barryjaylevine - 16/08/18

Hi barryjaylevine,

I’ve had my LCD replaced on my iMac 27 / 2013 and there is no LCD Temp Sensor cable on the replacement screen.

I’m experiencing the same performance issues.

I’ve ordered a new sensor, do you have any pointers as to how to install it?

Thanks,

Simon

UK

simon kennedy - 11/10/18

hey Simon, I used 2-sided tape….this is assuming the new sensor doesn’t already come with an adhesive surface already applied.

a roll of kapton tape for your own peace of mind will make sure nothing detaches from thermally-induced adhesive crystallization

make sure you position it in such a way that you can easily plug the lead back into the mobo….not a lot of length to that wire

placebomessiah - 11/10/18

Howdy folks,

Thanks for all the tips, LCD sensor fitted and iMac back in action.

Never again!

Simon

simon kennedy - 15/10/18

Hello all. So I’m trying to pinpoint my backlight issue on my 2015 retina 5k - I noticed I’m missing my thermal sensor on the LCD. Would this help with the backlight? I’m sure it will keep my fans from going crazy. Any help would be appreciated! Note: I have LEDs except the 4th one. Thanks!

Jordan Shababy - 05/01/19

Be careful when removing the adhesive residue!

I didn’t know it, but I ended up leaving slight scratch marks that can be seen from the front side.

Eric - 15/01/20

Paso 25

Utiliza un destornillador Phillips para quitar los nueve tornillos de 3,2 mm que sujetan el brazo de soporte.
Es posible que tengas que despegar el adhesivo de la pantalla que recubre el borde inferior de la carcasa del iMac para acceder a los tornillos.

These are new steps from when I did this on my late 2015 retina iMac so I believe step 25 and 26 are optional (you can cope without doing it).

Amuseme -

I did not find it necessary to remove these screws and this bar

James Orwin -

I lost these 8 during the reassemble. The manual tells I need eight 3.2mm screws.

Can anyone help to clarify what screws I need. I don't really understand this size. Is this M2x3mm?

Daniel - 02/09/22

Paso 26

Retira el brazo de soporte inferior (también conocido como "correa para la barbilla") de la carcasa del iMac.

No comments on this ?

It's quite possibly the most difficult part to put back in the entire process

The screws are tiny and the there is no easy way to line up the holes on the bracket with the screws

Having got this far - it wasn't even all that necessary to remove this part in the first place

Severe pain in the neck

Eoin -

After an hour of painstaking mess - I managed to get 7 out of the 9 back in

By that time I could care less about the remaining 2

Eoin - 21/04/22

With the right tools and technique, the bracket can easily be replaced in under a couple of minutes.

Use a screwdriver with a magnetized tip which frees up one hand and place a screw on the tip first.

Then line up the screw hole on just one end of the bracket and using a pair of tweezers from the side, hold the bracket in place while you put in the screw.

Next, do the same on the other end of the bracket. After that, all of the screws in the middle are quick to replace. I didn't really have to touch the bracket again after the end screws were in place.

Hope that helps someone else since removing this bracket does make later steps a bit easier.

Max Z - 08/06/22

Paso 27

Quita los dos tornillos T10 de 10 mm.

I found i didn’t need to remove the speaker nor the hard drive. In fact I managed to remove the old PSU without even removing the chin strap. However, to install the replacement PSU, I had to remove the chin strap. So I would say, remove the chin strap, but you can optionally leave the speaker and hard drive in.

Cool_Breeze -

While you do not need to fully remove the screws as once you loosen them a few turns the speaker becomes free. I found that after the removal of the speaker, I turned it over and popped the screws out as this made it easier to replace it later as I could see the alignment before putting the screws back in. If not you may be off a little and you do not want to force the screw back in.

James Orwin -

I used a pill container that I got from Walgreens to hold all of the fasteners I removed during the disassembly process. The container has 14 compartments (individual compartments for each morning and evening of the week). I put a small piece of paper in the compartment with the fasteners to note the name and step of the procedure and the size of the tool I used. Hopefully this will be useful when I go to put it back together again.

Dan Smith -

Paso 28

Desconecta el cable del altavoz izquierdo tirando de él hacia arriba y sacándolo de su zócalo en la placa base.
Retire el cable a través del espacio entre el disco duro y la placa base.
Si el espacio entre el disco duro y la placa base es demasiado estrecho para el cable del altavoz, desconéctalo y déjalo donde está.

I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.

Anthony Zimmerman - 10/04/18

on the 2019 iMac, it is horizontal not vertical so pull it horizontally out.

tarex7 -

Paso 29

Ten cuidado con no tocar ninguna de las soldaduras de la parte trasera de la fuente de alimentación. Los condensadores podrían contener suficiente corriente como para darte una descarga peligrosa.
Usa un spudger para desconectar la conexión del botón de encendido de su ranura en la placa base.

Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

brianyu - 04/10/15

The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

Robert - 17/12/15

there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

Thomas Webb - 02/09/17

Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

Joseph Ashe - 11/09/17

The connector has a plain black side and the other side you can see the 2 silver connectors.. the side you can see the 2 silver connectors faces the front.. the plain side is to the back/against the logic board.

paul.lynch1 - 20/03/21

If I leave my iMac unplugged for an extended period, say 24 or 48 hours, is it still possible to get an electric shock from the PSU? Do the capacitors eventually discharge?

Dominic Pettifer - 12/05/19

you can do this method, or just wear latex gloves.

Philip Sedlmair -

make sure you’ve actually unplugged the mac when running this cable, and not had it plugged in to test the diagnostic LEDs, because one of those wee silver spots is carrying 230v, and its 6mm away from the place the cable runs, So if you have fat fingers like mine, that’s a free wake up zap

flow in - 25/05/20

Paso 30

Levanta el altavoz izquierdo, hasta que puedas ver el cable del botón de encendido (unos 1.2 cm).

This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See Reemplazo de Placa Lógica del iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) step 25.

Use a P00.

To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

Andrew Gough - 16/03/21

Paso 31

Desconecta con cuidado el cable del botón de encendido de su muesca en el altavoz izquierdo.

Pay attention: if pulling out the loudspeaker tear off the wire of the power button, Apple have not any service parts except for the whole rear housing!

Fabio Braga - 26/07/19

This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See Reemplazo de Placa Lógica del iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) step 25.

Use a P00.

To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

Andrew Gough - 16/03/21

Paso 32

Levanta el altavoz izquierdo y sepáralo del iMac.
Si el espacio entre el disco duro y la placa base era demasiado estrecho para que el altavoz pudiera separarse, empuja con cuidado mientras lo separas.
Empuja desde el terminal del conector, a la vez que tiras desde el terminal del altavoz, para ajustar el cable bajo la ranura de sujeción correcta del disco duro.

I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

Robert - 17/12/15

me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

Alber Einsten - 10/03/16

Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

Matthew Gonzalez - 09/11/17

It is difficult to remove the bottom of the speaker because it bends into the frame. Be careful to remove the power button cable, which also routes in a channel in the bottom of the speaker.

Eric - 11/01/20

easier to remove the speakers if you unscrew the front ‘chin strap’ - 6/9 phillips screws that you can see in the picture hold that aluminum piece in place

flow in - 25/05/20

Agree. This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See Reemplazo de Placa Lógica del iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) step 25.

Use a P00.

To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

Andrew Gough - 16/03/21

The trick with removing the left speaker is that you have to slide it up toward the top of the iMac (continuing to de-route the power button cable carefully as you go) to get it out from under the chin before you lift it up to remove it.

ace - 06/03/21

Paso 33

Tira hacia arriba en vertical del cable de datos/alimentación SATA para desconectarlo del disco.

Is the WD hard drive an Apple Special with some internal rom or other thing? Planning to put in a Seagate Firecuda 2TB. Is there some special plug or temperature sensor requirement? Seems like there is only the SATA connector. Will I encounter fast fans? (can load the software to stop that). Think it’s a swap and is “easy”.

Carl Schultz - 29/04/19

Paso 34

Quita dos tornillos T10 de 7.3 mm que sujetan el soporte izquierdo del disco duro a la carcasa trasera.

If you have the iMac sitting upright, there is a potential risk of dropping the screws into the iMac casing. Be cautious or lay it down flat.

Robert - 17/12/15

Been there done that. Had to flip it and shake the heck out of it to get that srew to fall out!

webmail54 - 01/09/16

Left hard drive bracket screws are T8!! Had to remove HD first before derouting left speaker cable.

Macrepair SF - 04/07/18

Thank you iFixit for sending a T10 with magnetic tip. You saved me!

Ben Hannam - 12/04/19

The bracket screws are T10. The screws on the left side of the SILVER hard drive itself, are T8. If you seem to need a T8, you are actually trying to remove the wrong two screws. Look immediately to the left of the hard drive & you will see the BLACK bracket frame with two screws that use T10.

jumpoverpuddles - 22/08/19

I can confirm that some models are indeed a T8 on both sides of the bracket (NOT the drive itself). I have two 2015 A1419 and one is T10, the other T8

Christopher Crogan -

mine were T8s

Gábor Aranyossy - 26/09/20

Bracket to iMac case screws,T8.

Which is fine.

Just as in the next step, T8 or T10.

Mike Rehbein - 12/04/21

Paso 35

Agarra juntos el disco duro y el soporte izquierdo del disco.
Inclina el lado izquierdo hacia arriba de la carcasa trasera, y desliza el montaje a la izquierda.
Quita el disco duro y el soporte izquierdo del disco del iMac.

Two notes here: If you are using OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable, be sure to tuck the cable under the hard drive slightly. You cannot allow the connector to sit near the top edge since this will not allow the monitor to sit flush with the chassis when it is reattached. Additionally, the SATA connector does not seem to fit together as snuggly as when it was connect to the HDD, so tape or a plastic cable tie to keep the connection tight may be good insurance to prevent it from coming loose.

If you are planning on dual booting with Windows 10, the Windows 10 installed failed when the SSD and HDD were both connected at the same time. I had to disconnect the HDD until Windows 10 was installed. Note: I did a fresh install on a new SSD not configured as a fusion drive. If you are planning on doing this as well, use packing tape (or something similar) to hold the monitor in place until after installing the OSs. Then reconnect the HDD and apply the adhesive to the monitor for a permanent seal. Good Luck!

Walter Hayden - 29/12/17

Hi Walter, i’m looking to replace the broken fusion drive with a SSD, do i have to get the OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable?

Gregorio Alvarado Sahli - 01/01/18

Full removal of the speaker is unnecessary - just very carefully unplug the two-conductor power button cable, which is routed through the groove along the edge of the speaker enclosure. Next, unfasten the two large torx screws holding the speaker enclosure to the chassis. Now you can easily scoot the speaker away from the drive mount - move it over just enough to reach the drive mount’s 2 torx fasteners beneath the edge of the speaker (a CM or two). There’s now enough room to easily remove and replace the drive assembly .

clinton - 27/01/18

Just wondering if the HDD 3.5 (3TB) in my 2015 27’ 5K iMac case are the ones with the temp control firmware onboard. Just got quote from Auhorised repair centre for 2x the normal price of a 3TB drive. They say I can drop in one i source myself if I like but I don’t want to get it back and have the fans run all the time. Thanks in advance :)

Declan Casey - 30/01/19

Paso 36

Quita el soporte izquierdo del disco duro.

This step is unnecessary. Just leave the bracket in place and set the assembly aside.

Anthony Zimmerman - 10/04/18

On Late 2015 27” iMac I found that after removing this speaker, and the Right side one, I could reach under the motherboard and squeeze and disconnect the SATA data connector with a needle-nose and then remove the SATA power connector and slide the cable out from under the logic board without removing the board. The new cable slid in from the hard drive side with little effort.

chuck solie - 28/12/20

If switching to an SSD, the posts on the drive can be removed and used on the 2.5” to 3.5” adapter tray.

Andrew Gough - 16/03/21

Paso 37

Cuando trabajes en la fuente de alimentación, ten mucho cuidado de no tocar los cables del condensador o cualquier junta de soldadura expuesta en la parte posterior de la fuente de alimentación. Maneja solo el tablero por los bordes.
Desconecta el cable de control de la fuente de alimentación de la propia fuente.

I found this cable very difficult to disconnect, be very careful because the cable is between a black tape and it's stuck very hard to the logic board and the cable is very short and you don't have space to move and separate it from the connection! Be patient and take the time you need

MrSchaeffer - 18/06/15

I found than putting the flat end of the spudger at the center of the cable, and tilting it got the cable out without an issue.

jimboom006 - 14/06/17

I was able to use the flat end of the spudger on the sides. You can see a tiny little clip on each side. Be very gentle!

Joseph Ashe - 11/09/17

I simultaneously used the fingernails on my 2 index fingers to dislodge the tabs and continue to pull the cable out. It took a couple seconds.

Eric - 11/01/20

ultimately the trick for me was to just pull hard enough, but that part is the scariest part. any tips welcome

Boris - 16/05/20

These connectors seem pretty tough to remove until one understands the latch. Each side of the plug are two little sprung tabs (the tab is part of the spring clip which runs down the side of the plug on each side - makes sense once you see the removed plug!). Squeeze them in towards each other and then gently pull the plug from the socket. No great force, or even the spudger, needed once that is done.

Pete Mackenzie - 18/05/20

One more tip, has worked on other cables for me. Fish the skinniest spudger tip you have under the cable, and with a finger of your other hand put opposite pressure on the cable against the spudger and gently work it out

Mike Fleming - 30/08/20

If u are right handed, i can recomend to use your index left nail to press de bottom sprung, and a flat spudger on the right hand, came off so easy

Davo Montiel -

Davo Montiel's tip worked for me. Use the fingernail on your left index finger to press in the tab on the bottom side of the connector and with the right hand use a flat spudger to press in the tab on the top side of the connector.

Dan Smith -

Paso 38

Retira los siguientes cuatro tornillos que sujetan la fuente de alimentación a la carcasa trasera (tamaño T8 o T10 según el modelo exacto):
Dos tornillos Torx de 23.7mm
Dos tornillos Torx de 7.3mm

Paso 39

No intentes quitar la fuente de alimentación de la caja; todavía está conectado a la placa lógica por dos cables.
Mueve la placa de la fuente de alimentación hacia el borde izquierdo de la caja y hacia arriba para liberarla de la muesca en la placa lógica.

This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See Reemplazo de Placa Lógica del iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) step 25.

Use a P00.

To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

Andrew Gough - 16/03/21

The top right screw on the power supply actually screws into a stand-off screw connected to the back of the iMac case. Once you have removed the 4 x Torx 8 or 10 screws you can move the power supply enough to see the upper face of it.

It has a Torx 25 slot in it and comes out easily. This will give you a lot more room for your fingers in Step 40, depressing the tab on the DC power cable connector to pull it out, and when replacing it on reassembly. You may find it won’t require you removing the support bracket as in the suggestion above.

John Blagden - 23/10/21

Paso 40

Presiona la pestaña del conector del cable de alimentación de CC, luego extráela de su zócalo en la parte posterior de la placa lógica.

Remember to push in the disconnect tab on the large connector. Carefully insert your finger and push on the tab before you pull on the connector.

Manuel Collazo - 24/07/16

Thank you Manuel, this was a tricky one.

David Zemsky - 23/06/17

Yes, I pulled the whole socket out because I didn’t know about the tab. Fortunately I was able to place it back in. Not sure if it was glued or how it was anchored but it seems to have a solid connection and I can’t easily pull it out by hand. Once I plug the power cable back in should be ok.

P. Hisada - 21/03/18

This connector was very difficult for me to remove (even after pushing the disconnect tab). Eventually I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to wiggle it back and forth out of the socket. A lot of the cables on the my late 2015 model were very tight and a struggle to get out.

Anthony Zimmerman - 10/04/18

I'm struggling with this step. I presume that the tab to which you are referring is behind the connector. I can see a plastic protrusion there but it does not move when I push it. Just to get my finger behind it requires the power board to be moved quite a bit btw.

Dave Sands - 30/12/19

Pressing on the release on the back with my finger and at the same time using a needle nose pliers to wiggle the connector with my other hand worked for me.

Kimbo M - 12/04/20

i could not get it out by the force of my fingers, so what i did was slightly turn the imac 90 degrees so i could reach the area better, push up (so, vertically) the power control board, push in the tab on the bottom of the connector with my right hand, and slightly wiggle the connector out of its socket with a plier

Boris - 16/05/20

removing the chin strap (the front bit of metal running along the bottom of where the screen was) makes this much easier as you can rotate the board and get to the underside

flow in - 25/05/20

Left index finger pushing on the tab from behind the connector, using needle pliers in right hand to rock up & down did the trick thanks @starfleet_tone

Frédérick Charette - 14/06/20

Just be careful! I’ve seen two systems where the socket was pulled fully off! So the logic board then needs repairs or replacing being just a bit too aggressive!

Dan - 14/06/20

Needle nose and wiggling worked for us too. We were stuggling like heck with it when just using hands!

Mike Manasewitsch - 11/09/20

This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first - more space to angle the board upwards. See Reemplazo de Placa Lógica del iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) step 25.

Use a P00.

To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

Andrew Gough - 16/03/21

I did as Andrew Gough did, per other videos reviewed. Removed it right away. Just makes things easier, more space for just a few screws :)

Mike Rehbein - 12/04/21

The top right screw on the power supply actually screws into a stand-off screw connected to the back of the iMac case. Once you have removed the 4 x Torx 8 or 10 screws you can move the power supply enough to see the upper face of it.

It has a Torx 25 slot in it and comes out easily. This will give you a lot more room for your fingers in Step 40, depressing the tab on the DC power cable connector to pull it out, and when replacing it on reassembly. You may find it won’t require you removing the support bracket as in the suggestion above.

John Blagden -

I used your suggestion to remove the stand-off and then used my left hand index finger to press the tab while rocking the connector side to side with a needle nose pliers. Plug came out easily.

Dan Smith -

The tab is a pain in the a$$$ to get your finger in there. I was so horrified at the size of the capacitors that I put on gloves to reduce any amount of shock :-) . To get it loose I would pull out carefully the power board as far as I could than I wedge my index finger under and press the tab and slowly pull until I saw a slight gap between the end of the socket and the plug. I than place the flat part of the black spudger or blue one into the gap and use as it as a wedge to help move the plug forward as I kept the tab pressed.

Andrew Phillips -

Paso 41

Ten mucho cuidado de no tocar los cables del condensador o cualquier junta de soldadura expuesta en la parte posterior de la fuente de alimentación. Maneje solo el tablero por los bordes.
Voltea la parte superior de la fuente de alimentación hacia ti, como abrir un buzón, para revelar el conector del cable de entrada de CA.
Desconecta el conector del cable de entrada de CA.

To reassemble, do the same in reverse but keep power supply board more upright than slanted down when re-inserting it in to the lower right corner. The lower right screw post has an protrusion under/behind it and the Power Supply's small 2 wire plug must fit between the front of your Mac and the obstruction. Then it just slides right in and then screw it down.

Dan H - 24/03/17

There is a small release tab on the cable.

Eric - 11/01/20

Wear gloves when doing this to reduce any shock. The size of those capacitors are very unnerving and scary. Also those solder joints.

Andrew Phillips -

Reemplazo de la fuente de alimentación del iMac Intel 27" EMC 2639

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