Reemplazo de la pantalla de la MacBook Pro 16" 2019

Escrito Por: Carsten Frauenheim
  • Comentarios: 57
Reemplazo de la pantalla de la MacBook Pro 16" 2019

Dificultad

Moderado

Pasos

39

Tiempo Requerido

1 - 2 horas

Introducción

Utiliza esta guía para sustituir todo el ensamblaje de pantalla de tu MacBook Pro, con el fin de arreglar una pantalla agrietada o defectuosa. Este ensamblaje también incluye los cables planos integrados para la pantalla y la retroiluminación.

A pesar de que hemos probado con éxito este procedimiento utilizando pantallas de sustitución originales de Apple, el chip T2 de Apple puede impedir que las pantallas del mercado de accesorios funcionen correctamente, y es posible que tu MacBook Pro no arranque como consecuencia de ello.

Para tu seguridad, descarga la batería de tu MacBook Pro por debajo del 25% antes de empezar. Una batería de iones de litio cargada puede crear un fuego peligroso e incontrolable si se perfora accidentalmente.

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    • Antes de comenzar, debes desactivar la función de arranque automático de tu Mac. Auto Boot se enciende en tu Mac cuando abres la tapa y puede activarse accidentalmente durante el desmontaje. Usa esta guía o sigue las instrucciones abreviadas a continuación para deshabilitar el inicio automático. Este comando podría no funcionar en todas las Macs

    • Enciende tu Mac y ejecuta Terminal.

    • Copia y pega el siguiente comando (o escríbelo exactamente) en la Terminal:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • Presiona [return]. Si se te solicita, introduce tu contraseña de administrador y vuelve a pulsar [return]. Nota: La tecla de retorno también puede estar etiquetada como ⏎ o "enter".

    • Ahora puedes apagar con seguridad su Mac y abrir la carcasa inferior, sin que se encienda accidentalmente.

    • Cuando hayas finalizado la reparación y se haya vuelto a ensamblar su Mac, vuelve a habilitar el inicio automático con el siguiente comando:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    Macrepair SF -

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.

    Dan -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B -

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze -

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian -

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b -

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron -

    This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

    Patrick Machacek -

    Not able to do that with damaged screen

    richardjgreen -

    If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot

    Roberto Sanchez Bustos -

    Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

    Adrian Vizik -

    Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

    Roberto Enrieu -

    running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

    result: `AutoBoot %00`

    Marek Polák -

    Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's: nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot' to display the current state, the default is true - and then to change it, sudo nvram auto-boot=false which turns it off.

    Ed Mechem -

    This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

    Grant Ormsby -

    It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

    tommy404 -

    I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

    hatuxka -

    BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!

    I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

    Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

    bcardanha -

    When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”

    johann beda -

    When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a pwd (print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.

    Ed Mechem -

    I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

    I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

    I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

    Mircea Comanici -

    After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

    Ed Mease -

    This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

    G Sena -

    Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?

    maël muzelet -

    Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"

    Claire Miesch -

    Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.

    Tom Markham -

    If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.

    arichard2401 -

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    • Apaga y desenchufa completamente tu MacBook Pro antes de empezar. Cierra la pantalla y pon toda la portátil boca abajo.

    • Usa un destornillador P5 Pentalobe para quitar seis tornillos que aseguran la caja inferior:

    • Cuatro tornillos de 3.7 mm

    • Dos tornillos de 7.3 mm

    • Observa cómo los tornillos salen en un ligero ángulo, debes reinstalarlos de la misma manera.

    • A lo largo de esta reparación, controla cada tornillo y asegúrate de que vuelva exactamente a su lugar de origen para evitar dañar tu dispositivo.

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    • Presiona una ventosa cerca del borde frontal de la caja inferior, entre los agujeros de los tornillos.

    • Tire de la ventosa lo suficiente para abrir un pequeño hueco debajo de la caja inferior.

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    • Desliza la esquina de una púa de apertura en el hueco que acabas de crear debajo de la caja inferior.

    • Desliza la esquina de una púa de apertura en el hueco que acabas de crear debajo de la caja inferior.

    • Esto libera el primero de los clips ocultos que aseguran la caja inferior. Deberías sentir y oír el clip liberarse.

    I recommend being careful while sliding as you can scratch the speaker. The actual clip is about halfway up the side, whereas the speaker is closer to the front (further from the hinge). So stay very shallow with just the tip of the pick until you get halfway up the side.

    Eric Gauderman -

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    • Repite el paso anterior en el otro lado, usando una púa de apertura para liberar el segundo clip.

    Same advice that I gave for the other side — be careful not to scratch the speaker which is close to the bottom. Keep the pick shallow until you get halfway up the side.

    Eric Gauderman -

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    • Levanta el borde frontal de la caja inferior (el lado opuesto a la bisagra de la pantalla) lo suficiente como para deslizar las puntas de los dedos por debajo y conseguir un buen agarre.

    • Dos clips ocultos adicionales cerca del centro de la cubierta deberían soltarse en este punto, si es que no lo han hecho ya.

    • No levantes más de aproximadamente un centímetro y no intentes remover la caja inferior aun.

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    • Tira con firmeza para deslizar la caja inferior hacia el borde delantero del MacBook (lejos del área de la bisagra) para separar el último de los clips que aseguran la caja inferior.

    • Tira primero en una esquina, luego en la otra.

    • Tira hacia el lado, no hacia arriba.

    • Esto puede requerir un montón de fuerza.

    This was made a lot easier by using a lever in the hinge area in combination with pulling. The amount of force required was more than the grip I could get on the metal allowed for my macbook.

    James Andariese -

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    • Remueve la caja inferior.

    • Para volver a instalar la caja inferior:

    • Colócalo en su lugar y alinea los clips deslizantes cerca de la bisagra de la pantalla. Presiona hacia abajo y desliza la cubierta hacia la bisagra. Debería dejar de deslizarse cuando los clips se enganchen.

    • Cuando los clips deslizantes estén totalmente encajados y la caja inferior parezca estar correctamente alineada, presiona firmemente sobre la caja inferior para que encajen los cuatro clips ocultos que hay debajo. Debería sentir y oír cómo se encajan en su lugar

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    • Despega y remueve la etiqueta adhesiva aislante de la placa de la batería en el borde de la placa lógica más cerca de la batería.

    • Si la tapa no se despega fácilmente, aplica un poco de calor con un iOpener, secador de pelo o pistola de calor para ablandar el adhesivo e intenta nuevamente.

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    • Despega la cinta que cubre el conector de cable de datos de la placa de la batería.

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    • Usa un spudger para levantar suavemente la tapa de bloqueo del conector ZIF para el cable de datos de la placa de la batería.

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    • Desconecta el cable de datos de la placa de la batería deslizándolo fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Desliza en paralelo a la placa lógica, en la dirección del cable.

    들어올려서 떨어지면 어떻게 해야하나요…ㅠㅠ

    obbamanse87 -

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    • Despega la cinta que cubre el conector de cable de datos de la placa de la batería.

    • Levanta y desconecta la tapa de bloqueo en el conector en el extremo opuesto del cable de datos de la placa de la batería.

    Be very careful - the locking flap is very easy to break.

    Vaughan -

    I’ve seen versions of this battery board that the cable goes around and to the back of the board, so this step is not always necesary.

    Carlos Morales -

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    • Desliza el cable de datos de la placa de la batería de su zócalo en la placa de la batería y remuévelo completamente.

    • Ten cuidado de no volver a instalar este cable al revés.

    I’ve seen versions of this battery board that the cable goes around and to the back of the board, so this step is not always necesary.

    Carlos Morales -

    Putting a mark on the cable will be helpful when reinstalling so you don't put it backwards or upside down.

    maccentric -

    This isn't necessary for many repairs, such as the Screen Replacement. I just lift the cable out of the way enough to do the next few steps and leave it attached.

    maccentric -

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    • Usa un destornillador T5 Torx para remover el tornillo panqueque de 6.7 mm que sujeta el conector de alimentación de la batería.

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    • Usa un spudger para levantar suavemente el conector de alimentación de la batería, desconectando la batería.

    • Levanta el conector lo suficientemente alto para mantenerlo separado de su zócalo mientras trabajas. Si haces contacto accidentalmente, podría dañar tu MacBook Pro.

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    • Usa un destornillador Torx T3 para quitar los dos tornillos de 3.5 mm que aseguran la cubierta del cable flexible de la placa de la pantalla.

    • Remueve la cubierta del cable flexible de la pantalla.

    Thats actually T4

    richardjgreen -

    Maybe your T4 is worn? I had to use T3. For the next step too.

    maccentric -

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    • Usa un destornillador Torx T3 para retirar los dos tornillos de 1.7 mm que fijan el soporte para el conector del cable de la placa de la pantalla.

    • Retira el soporte del conector del cable de la tarjeta de pantalla.

    Again T4 Torx

    richardjgreen -

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    • Saca el cable flexible de la pantalla directamente de su zócalo para desconectarlo de la pantalla.

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    • Utiliza un destornillador T3 Torx para quitar los cuatro tornillos de 2 mm de las tapas de las bisagras (dos tornillos en cada lado).

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    • Remueve las tapas de ambas bisagras.

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    • Usa un destornillador Torx T5 para quitar el único tornillo de 2.9 mm que asegura el conjunto de cables de la antena.

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    • Desconecta los tres cables de la antena haciendo palanca en cada uno de ellos.

    • Desliza tus pinzas o el extremo plano de tu spudger debajo de cada cable hasta que esté cerca del zócalo, y luego gíralo suavemente o haz una palanca para desconectarlo.

    • Para volver a conectar cada cable, alinea el conector directamente sobre su zócalo y luego presiona hacia abajo para que encaje en su lugar.

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    • Usa un destornillador Torx T5 para quitar los cuatro tornillos de 3.3 mm que aseguran la placa de la pantalla.

    • Antes de reinstalar estos tornillos:

    • Asegúrate de que el cable flexible de la placa de la pantalla esté en la parte superior de la placa, no atrapado debajo.

    Needed a T4, not T5 on mine. It’s unclear if it’s my bits or my laptop that disagree with this step’s directions. If your T5 doesn’t fit though, don’t force it. See if a T4 fits. If it’s like mine, it will fit perfectly with no play.

    James Andariese -

    It was T5 for me

    maccentric -

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    • Usa un destornillador P2 Pentalobe para quitar los dieciséis tornillos de 1.5 mm que aseguran el conjunto de la antena (ocho en cada lado).

    • Estos pequeños tornillos se pueden quitar fácilmente, así que aplica una presión firme y consistente al retirar

    Before this step, note those two yellow circles (copper) towards the inside of the laptop and next to the red circles around the antenna screws. They are the result of two T4s that were removed.

    You can see the black screw heads in Step 24 and they’re just copper rings with no screw in Step 25.

    There are two additional screws along this row which will need to be removed. Once done, the assembly they were holding down will be loose and your antenna assembly will also feel more free. Gently pry it upwards. It will not require much force. Significantly less than I was trying to apply to it before realizing the instructions were wrong.

    If your antenna assembly won’t budge after following the directions, this is what’s missing.

    James Andariese -

    Hey James! I'm not sure which screws you’re talking about. Are these screws in addition to the four already marked in Step 24?

    Carsten Frauenheim -

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    • Utiliza una púa de apertura para levantar el ensamblaje de la antena y separarlo del MacBook Pro.

    • Ten cuidado con los delicados cables planos en la sección media. Evita deslizar la púa de un lado a otro para no dañar los cables.

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    • Retira cuidadosamente el ensamblaje de la antena, mientras que simultáneamente extraes el paquete de cables de la antena de debajo del disipador de calor.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, junta suavemente el conjunto de cables y guíalo bajo el disipador de calor hasta la posición correcta en la placa. Si es necesario, usa tus herramientas para ayudar a guiarlo, pero no lo fuerces.

    When reassembling this, don't forget to have the display board's cables that go to the display be under the antenna assembly. I screwed in 16 screws before realizing this!

    Michael Yin -

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    • Utiliza un destornillador T3 Torx para quitar los cuatro tornillos de 3.9 mm que aseguran los muelles de la tapa del cable de la pantalla.

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    • Usa un destornillador T8 Torx para quitar dos tornillos de 5.0 mm de cada bisagra (cuatro tornillos en total).

    • Cada bisagra tiene un tercer tornillo, que debes dejar en su lugar por ahora.

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    • Utiliza un destornillador Torx T3, para retirar los dos tornillos de 1.5 mm que aseguran el soporte de la tapa para el digitalizador de la Barra Táctil y los conectores del sensor de ángulo de la tapa.

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    • Con tus pinzas, desliza el soporte hacia el borde lateral del MacBook Pro hasta que se despeje la pestaña de retención de la placa lógica.

    • Remueve el soporte.

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    • Desconecta el cable del sensor de ángulo de la tapa alzándolo de la placa lógica.

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    • Usa un destornillador Pentalobe P2 para quitar el tornillo de 1,9 mm de largo que sujeta el sensor de ángulo de la tapa.

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    • Usa pinzas, o tus dedos, para sacar el sensor de ángulo de la tapa del marco y soltarlo de su clavija de metal.

    • Retire el sensor de ángulo de la tapa.

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    • Durante el reensamblaje, primero instala los tornillos de las bisagras sin apretarlos. Luego ajusta la pantalla hasta que esté correctamente centrada y alineada a cada lado. Finalmente, aprieta los tornillos.

    • Si la pantalla hace clic o se rompe al abrirla, afloja los tornillos de las bisagras y ajusta la alineación. Asegúrate de que la pantalla no se siente demasiado hacia adelante, o puede engancharse en el cuerpo al abrirse y cerrarse.

    • Si lo deseas, añade un un poco de fijatornillos a las roscas de los tornillos para evitar que se aflojen con el tiempo.

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    • Si planeas reutilizar tu pantalla, ábrela y aplica un trozo de cinta adhesiva al vidrio directamente sobre cada bisagra. Esto ayuda a proteger el vidrio de ser rayado en el siguiente paso.

    • Abra completamente la pantalla y coloque su MacBook Pro en un lado.

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    • Usa un destornillador T8 Torx para quitar los dos tornillos restantes de 5.0 mm de la bisagra (uno de cada bisagra).

    • Quita el último tornillo de la parte superior, usando una mano para sujetar ambas mitades del MacBook Pro para asegurarte de que no se separen y caigan de forma inesperada.

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    • Mantén un agarre firme tanto en la pantalla como en el cuerpo principal del MacBook Pro. Cualquiera de las dos mitades puede caer inesperadamente durante este paso.

    • Empuje ambas mitades del MacBook Pro juntas para que las bisagras se puedan levantar y queden libres de sus huecos en el chasis.

    • Empuja la carcasa principal del MacBook Pro hacia ti mientras tiras de la pantalla hacia ti para separarla.

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    • Remueve la pantalla.

Conclusión

Compara la nueva pieza de repuesto con la original. Es posible que tengas que transferir los componentes restantes o retirar los respaldos adhesivos de la nueva pieza antes de instalarla.

Para volver a montar el dispositivo, sigue los pasos anteriores en orden inverso.

Lleva tus desechos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje certificado.

¿La reparación no salió como planeaste? Echa un vistazo a nuestra comunidad de respuestas para ayuda en la resolución de problemas.

Autor

Carsten Frauenheim

Miembro Desde 10/03/20

88878 Reputación

12 comentarios

Anybody know the screen part# or where to find it?

Macrepair SF -

Ou est ce qu’on trouve l’écran ?

haddad biadja -

Ou est ce qu’on trouve l’écran ?

Jean Christophe BOURBON -

Is it possible to boot up the machine without the screen attached (and use external displays only)?

Pravin Jayasinghe -

yes USBC to HDMI

jim -

Great guide, covers the details nicely. I would add that the nvram command no longer works as of firmware in Big Sur. We don’t have too much trouble with that, however. Shut down the machine, and make sure to not open the lid or do anything else until the battery is disconnected.

I will also note that we’ve never had a T3 screwdriver not strip unless we cut the tip off the torx; the screws Apple uses never seem to be happy until that is done. Haven’t see anyone else complain about that, though, so maybe it’s just us!

In case anyone is wondering: as long as your part is OEM, it shouldn’t give any issues with the T2 chip. Most assemblies are not sold with the screen angle sensor, however, so that needs to be transferred to the new assembly. That’s just a matter of unscrewing the one screw that holds it to the clutch and then attaching it to the new one in the same way.

help -

My Macbook is space gray and the display you guys have is grey.The description is clear but i don’t think i’ll be able to replace it by myself.I better make an effort and buy another one.

mtffreire -

My screen gets glitch lines but only if I open it up past 25-30 degrees. So I’m thinking it is something mechanical with the hinge and the connecting wires. any insight?

gregg curtis -

I started getting horizontal lines 2 mm apart on my screen. Lines would vanish when screen was closed to a smaller angle (30 degrees) and then reappear, when opening wider. Also experienced occasions ghosting of images or overlapping app windows. Took the MBP 16 to the Apple Store for further diagnosis. Techs indicated that it could be a loose display cable. They offered to check for a possible loose display cable and re-seat it. If not resolved, said display would have to be replaced. For what it’s worth. (Apple offline and online diagnostics performed all indicated no other hardware problems, with the GPU, etc. Problem seemed to be diagnosed. Attaching an external display is also helpful in diagnostic of the GPU. The Apple Store near me, quoted $599 for the Apple display and $79 for install.

freaman -

Great guide. It doesn't include the replacement of the lid angle sensor. I had to disconnect it from the old screen and re-attach it to the new one. I also got really worried because it didn't turn on when I first tried to restart. I had to plug it in and hold the power button for a few seconds before it came back on. Definitely gave me a freight.

owenbrewer4 -

Good morning all !

the screen of my Macbook Pro 16 "from 2019 has just given up. The screen remains black despite all the attempts by Apple technicians. I would like to use it without the original one, leaving it hanging as I used to habit on my two external screens. Do you think it is possible to start it without its screen connected and at the same time take advantage of the speakers, the USB C sockets, the touch bar, and the trackpad Thank you in advance!

Élie BINGUE -

Good repair guide! I just swapped out my display with no issues. I'd consider adding the step to swap out the screen angle sensor, as mine (and most replacement displays, apparently) didn't come with a new one and it had to be swapped over. FWIW my screen was showing as over-saturated with blown-out highlights, some ghosting of background windows through the front window, strange shadows from smaller windows--tilting the screen to mostly closed would make it better, but not fix it entirely. Brand New display sourced from Ebay ($550) fixed it right up. Thanks for the great guide!

Stephen Wright -