Reemplazo de la pantalla del MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010

Escrito Por: Andrew Bookholt
  • Comentarios: 28
Reemplazo de la pantalla del MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010

Dificultad

Moderado

Pasos

15

Tiempo Requerido

45 minutos

Introducción

Utiliza esta guía para reemplazar todo el ensamblaje de la pantalla.

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    • Retira los siguientes 10 tornillos que sujetan la tapa inferior del MacBook Pro 13 "Unibody:

    • Siete tornillos Phillips de 3 mm.

    • Tres tornillos Phillips de 13,5 mm.

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    David Kilbridge -

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover -

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh -

    I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)

    Cary B -

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    • Levanta ligeramente la tapa inferior y empuja hacia la parte posterior para liberarlo de las pestañas que lo sujetan

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike -

    Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.

    Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!

    Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.

    Am I allowed to cry?

    Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.

    IFIXIT - IDIGIT!

    kath myers -

    HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

    That was a brilliant read.

    Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.

    Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.

    :)

    Cary B -

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    • Por razones de precaución, le recomendamos que desconecte el conector de la batería de la placa lógica para evitar cualquier descarga eléctrica.

    • Utilice el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería hacia arriba fuera de su toma en la placa lógica.

    Cita de gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung -

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond -

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    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector del cable del parlante derecho/subwoofer de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Haz palanca desde debajo de los cables.

    Mine had a small piece of insulating material on top of the connector. By removing that first, I could then pry up the connector with less stress on the cable.

    istlota -

    Great tip! Thanks.

    juliet -

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    • Desconecta el cable de la cámara tirando del extremo macho hacia afuera de su enchufe.

    • Asegúrate de tirar del conector paralelo a la cara de la placa lógica y hacia la unidad óptica, no directamente hacia arriba desde su zócalo.

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    • Desconecta el cable de datos de la cámara del canal en la unidad óptica.

    for easy dismantle, just remove 2 screw of subwoofer

    Mohamad Faizal Sharudin -

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    • Retira los siguientes tornillos:

    • Dos tornillos Phillips de 10 mm

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 3,8 mm

    • Desliza el soporte del cable de la cámara de debajo del altavoz de sub-graves y extráelo de la computadora.

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    • Toma la lengüeta de plástico asegurada al candado del cable de datos de la pantalla y gírala hacia el lado de entrada de CC de la computadora.

    • Saca el conector del cable de datos de la pantalla directamente de su zócalo.

    • Asegúrate de tirar del conector directamente y no hacia arriba de su zócalo.

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    • Retira los dos tornillos siguientes que sujetan el soporte del cable de datos de la pantalla a la carcasa superior:

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 8,6 mm

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 5,6 mm

    • Levanta el soporte del cable de datos de la pantalla para sacarlo de la carcasa superior.

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    • Si está presente, retira la pequeña tira de cinta de espuma pegada a los tornillos de la pantalla cerca del cable de datos de la pantalla.

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    • Retira los dos tornillos Torx T8 exteriores de 6,5 mm que sujetan cada uno de los dos soportes de la pantalla a la carcasa superior (4 tornillos en total).

    You may have to lift/remove a foam tape on the left side as well

    Sebastien CHAPUIS -

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    • Abre tu MacBook para que la pantalla quede perpendicular a la caja superior.

    • Coloca tu MacBook abierta sobre una mesa como se muestra en la imagen.

    • Mientras sujetas la pantalla y la carcasa superior con la mano izquierda, extrae el tornillo Torx T8 de 6,5 mm restante del soporte inferior de la pantalla.

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    • Asegúrate de sujetar la pantalla y la carcasa superior con la mano izquierda. Si no lo haces, la pantalla/carcasa superior liberada podría caerse, lo que podría dañar cada componente.

    • Retira el último tornillo Torx T8 restante que sujeta la pantalla a la carcasa superior.

    When reassembling, Careful not to drop your screw, or it may get stuck to the (magnetic) power adapter port. Oops!

    Save yourself some time and don't drop it!

    rowdyferret -

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    • Toma la carcasa superior con la mano derecha y gírala ligeramente hacia la parte superior de la pantalla para que el soporte de la pantalla superior quede libre del borde de la carcasa superior.

    • Gira la pantalla ligeramente alejándola de la caja superior.

    Make sure you make a 90 degree angle between the keyboard and the display before taking out the screws. If you have less than a 90, you will never get it apart due to the upper display bracket shape. It has to be at the right angle or it won't come out.

    mastover -

    I place it over keyboard side down hanging over a table. This way I know it's at 90 degrees and it also makes it easier to take it off.

    Nick -

  15. WxKn3GBEgAyDOVHF

    • Levanta la pantalla y sepárala de la carcasa superior, prestando atención a los soportes o cables que puedan quedar atrapados.

    As mentioned in the previous step, place it keyboard side down with the edge hanging over a table. This way it's at 90 degrees and it makes it easier to align and get the screws in.

    Josh -

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue las instrucciones en orden inverso.

Autor

Andrew Bookholt

578639 Reputación

5 comentarios

Awesome guide!! Thank you so much for walking me through this. It was surprisingly easy. Only took me about 30 min to do. Best Buy Canada quoted me $900 to do this repair. Total cost of tools from iFixit and parts from eBay... $280 :) THANK YOU IFIXIT!!!!!

spenczoid -

Thanks for the guide, it was spot on. I dropped my beloved MacBook Pro and it cracked the display. Following the guide was a snap even for my old eyes, the ability to make the pictures full screen is great.

jackpollard -

I found a used complete display unit for sale on ebay. Delivered 50$ and half an hour of work and am up and have a lovely MBP 13 inch mid 2010. Many thanks for the useful and detailed guide.

keithp198 -

Had the standard problem with a loose screen on a MacBook Pro 13in 2010. Followed the guide which is very clear and got to the screws which I could then tighten. Reassembled and on booting could hear the fan but no display aside from a few flashes. Rechecked the screen data cable connection which was slightly mis-aligned. corrected it and it worked fine. That connection is very sensitive!

Saved me $900 quoted by the Macstore - 90 mins work on my own and a few grey hairs. A glass of red wine helps.

Norbert -

Just followed the steps and I successfully reinstalled a new screen/lid assembly. The only problem being was step 4. When gently (underline gently) removed the audio cable, all of the pins fractured and remained in the board so now my onboard audio is highly limited. I have to ask why was that step necessary as the removal/reinstall would have been completely possible without step 4. Greg

gdmenginc -