Reemplazo de la placa de entrada de CC del MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010

Escrito Por: Walter Galan
  • Comentarios: 43
Reemplazo de la placa de entrada de CC del MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010

Dificultad

Difícil

Pasos

20

Tiempo Requerido

45 minutos

Introducción

Utiliza esta guía para reemplazar la placa de entrada de CC MagSafe.

  1. dOyroxuUBfNu1T4K

    • Retira los siguientes 10 tornillos que sujetan la tapa inferior del MacBook Pro 13 "Unibody:

    • Siete tornillos Phillips de 3 mm.

    • Tres tornillos Phillips de 13,5 mm.

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    David Kilbridge -

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover -

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh -

    I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)

    Cary B -

  2. bLtKOLyJdyAxkZaG

    • Levanta ligeramente la tapa inferior y empuja hacia la parte posterior para liberarlo de las pestañas que lo sujetan

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike -

    Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.

    Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!

    Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.

    Am I allowed to cry?

    Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.

    IFIXIT - IDIGIT!

    kath myers -

    HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

    That was a brilliant read.

    Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.

    Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.

    :)

    Cary B -

  3. B1SUXfcr5fruMavs

    • Por razones de precaución, le recomendamos que desconecte el conector de la batería de la placa lógica para evitar cualquier descarga eléctrica.

    • Utilice el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería hacia arriba fuera de su toma en la placa lógica.

    Cita de gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung -

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond -

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    • Usa un spudger para sacar el conector del ventilador de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Es útil torcer el spudger axialmente desde debajo de los cables del ventilador para liberar el conector.

    • La toma del ventilador y el conector del ventilador se pueden ver en la segunda y tercera imagen. Ten cuidado de no romper el zócalo de plástico del ventilador de la placa lógica mientras usas tu spudger para levantar el conector del ventilador y sacarlo de su zócalo.

    • El diseño de la placa lógica que se muestra en la segunda imagen puede verse ligeramente diferente al de tu máquina, pero el enchufe del ventilador es el mismo.

    The image is very misleading. This is why many people are breaking their connectors. Please correct this and make it VERY clear that one has to put the spudger straight behind the cables, NOT behind the connector, as shown in the pic.

    Giunia -

    Thankfully there is a helpful guide in the comments on this post for fixing the socket in the likely event that you snap the sucker clean off like I did:

    I popped off the fan connection from the logic board...Fix?

    agoodcourage -

    As Giunia said I too just broke the connector only because the photo shows to slide a spudger between the connector socket and the motherboard. I am now out of my only computer. This is VERY frustrating.

    Nha1234 -

    Broke it as well the picture is very misleading.

    Christian Flores -

  5. pFGTdZImDYtjO4b4

    • Retira los siguientes tres tornillos:

    • Un tornillo Torx T6 de 7 mm

    • Dos tornillos Torx T6 de 5,4 mm

  6. bbopIIjLSdISOvLS

    • Levanta la ventilador de la carcasa superior

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    • Toma la lengüeta de plástico asegurada al candado del cable de datos de la pantalla y gírala hacia el lado de entrada de CC de la computadora.

    • Tira con cuidado del conector del cable de datos de la pantalla paralelo a la placa.

    • No tires del conector hacia arriba o podrías dañarlo.

    On my system the pad on top of the connector was shifted making the bracket difficult to rotate into the up position. The bracket looks like a handle so my first instinct was to pull it straight up. Big mistake. I ended up popping the brass guard off the connector on the logic board. The instructions could benefit from an arrow indicating the direction to pull and rotation of the bracket.

    highnoontoday -

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    • Retira los dos tornillos siguientes que sujetan el soporte del cable de datos de la pantalla a la carcasa superior:

    • Un Phillips de 8,6 mm

    • Un Phillips de 5,6 mm

    • Levanta el soporte del cable de datos de la pantalla para sacarlo de la carcasa superior.

  9. 2pApI4moCDTnBuaR

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el subwoofer y el conector del altavoz derecho de la placa lógica.

    Push it straight down. It should snap in.

    BobG -

    The first time i tried this on a MBP 13 I broke the connector form the board. It should be noted that you have to be very careful in this step, as the plug fits very tightly and you can easily use too much force to tear the connector from the board. Use a second spudger to hold down the connector at its border and try very gently using a second spudger to move the plug out of the connector upwards.

    Joachim Kathmann -

  10. eT5TmcDL5Qy5VvaZ

    • Tira del conector del cable de la cámara hacia la unidad óptica para desconectarlo de la placa lógica.

    • Este enchufe es de metal y se puede doblar fácilmente. Asegúrate de alinear el conector con su zócalo en la placa lógica antes de acoplar las dos piezas.

    As mentioned, the socket can be easily damaged when re-inserting it. I didn't care enough and one pin was damaged. Wifi was not detected.

    Hopefully the pin was not broken (only bent). Putting it back in its correct position, the wifi re-appeared.

    Arnaud ROSAY -

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    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar la unidad óptica, el disco duro y los conectores del cable del trackpad de la placa lógica.

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    • Usa la uña o la punta de un spudger para levantar la solapa de retención del cable en el zócalo ZIF para el cable plano del teclado.

    • Usa tu spudger para deslizar el cable plano del teclado fuera de su zócalo.

    Sometimes spulger is not the best tool to slide the cable out. If it is difficult to slide, try two toothpicks to pull the cable from two sides simultaneosly.

    Leo Nikitin -

    Toothpicks did the trick, thanks

    Gábor SEBESTYÉN -

    As Mateo said, replacing the zif cable is NOT easy, and in this case, will leave you with a computer that won't power on- this cable connects the power button. I learned a trick somewhere for dealing with these cables- put a piece of good sticky tape on the cable, and use it to pull it back into the connector. Works every time.

    stevesontheroad -

    Yeah! The tape trick worked for me. Thanks!

    Ted Bishop -

    Thank you Steve, it’s works perfectly.

    never_forever18 -

  13. xakWmCBC3OMuMyXe

    • Despega la pequeña tira de cinta negra del conector del cable plano de la retroiluminación del teclado.

    Be very careful while taking this black tape off. I accidentally broke the chip off the motherboard and so my keyboard is not backlit any more.

    Asim Akath -

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    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar la solapa de retención del cable en el zócalo ZIF para el cable plano de la retroiluminación del teclado.

    • Usa tu spudger para deslizar el cable plano de luz de fondo del teclado fuera de su zócalo.

    Be especially careful as my hole socket detached from the board. It would have helped to vertically press the socket to the board with the tip of a spudger. Thus partially blocking the strap, you can first peel the free end, then change position and peel the rest. Slide the ribbon cable perfectly horizontally.

    Rainer -

    I had the same issue of trying to get the ZIF cable back in but found that if I used a piece of scotch tape, it worked. I followed this guide. MacBook unibody keyboard ribbon cable won't go in

    spearson -

    A reassembly trick that works for me is to use some 3/4" blue painters tape to stick to the very back (lower end) of the ribbon cable so I can pull it up and back before locking the cam. Trying to get a good grip without cutting, or crimping the ribbon means no tweezers or pliers can be used.

    originalmachead -

  15. GA4R6Z1udiBdAWjp

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector del cable del indicador de batería de la placa lógica.

    If you’re swapping top cases, you might need to remove the battery indicator from the case and swap it to the replacement top case. It attaches with three very tiny Phillips screws. I wasn’t aware that my replacement top case didn’t have this part and got confused when reversing the steps to reassemble and I didn’t have this connector. I had to take the battery back out in order to swap the indicator over.

    Mark Barnes -

    Interesting this guide doesn’t have you disconnect the battery after step 2 then shows it unplugged already in step 14.

    plink53 -

    I would recommend revision to this guide to put battery disconnection as the first step after opening the bottom case. First rule of logic/mother boards: don’t work on or around if power is applied.

    dsfeehan -

  16. 5acPEhbAXlAZMqvR

    • Usa la punta de un spudger para quitar el micrófono del adhesivo que lo une a la carcasa superior.

    on the Australian/Asia version speaker cable is located underneath the logic board.

    linuxuser101 -

  17. pUjsTWMyb1uXYtmK

    • Retire los siguientes tornillos:

    • Dos tornillos Torx T6 de 7 mm de la placa de entrada de CC

    • Cinco tornillos Torx T6 de 3,3 mm

    • Dos tornillos Torx T6 de 4 mm

  18. 1VTxI1RA5d52tAWU
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    • No es estrictamente necesario quitar la batería antes de sacar la placa lógica, pero hace que quitar la placa lógica sea más fácil y seguro. Si dejas la batería adentro, ten especial cuidado de no doblar la placa lógica contra la caja de la batería cerca de su código de barras.

    • Retira los siguientes tornillos de tres puntas que sujetan la batería a la carcasa superior:

    • Un tornillo de tres puntas de 5,5 mm

    • Un tornillo de tres puntas de 13,5 mm

    • Saca la batería de la carcasa superior.

  19. dcGNaBIhDMgYwwJJ
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    • Levanta la placa lógica desde su borde izquierdo y levántala hasta que los puertos despejen el costado de la carcasa superior.

    • Separa la placa lógica del costado de la carcasa superior y retírala, teniendo cuidado con la placa de entrada de CC que puede quedar atrapada.

    Be careful while taking the board out, as the heatsink usually is caught by the optic drive.

    Leo Nikitin -

    mid 2012: Careful of the left speaker (on your right because unit is upside down). Gently remove with spudger tool before removing logic board and when reinstalling press firmly back into place with spudger. Install speaker after putting logic board in place but before installing screws.

    JASON CULP -

    Step 18 is out of order. Steps following this show it still installed, which is confusing.

    plink53 -

  20. KLXC2cTlJcS2nrO5

    • Desconecte la placa de entrada de CC retirando su conector del zócalo de la placa lógica.

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue las instrucciones en orden inverso.

Autor

Walter Galan

685928 Reputación

4 comentarios

The Tri-wing Y1screwdriver suggested for this procedure is too big for the removal of the battery screws. I completed replacing the DC in board without removing the battery.

rkterao -

I have just tested several of those drivers from our shelf in 3 different MacBooks we have here with tri-wing type screws, and they are all a perfect fit. I have sent you an email to try and find out why your driver did not fit, you may have a mid 2009 model with pentalobular screws instead?

Eric Essen -

Thanks! Guide was wonderful! I wish there had been a bit more information about the proper routing of the dc-in cable as the first time I put it back together I accidentally routed the cable on the outside of the mother board riser which made it impossible to seat the display cable hold down clamp properly. I had to re-remove the main board in order to get the dc-in cable on the other side of the riser. Not a biggie, but a note on that step would be helpful. Thanks again!!

joyandrob -

So I switched it out, but in the process ripped the battery indicator cable connector, and now the wifi doesn’t work either… it’s super slow to start up. Any suggestions for fixes?

KitandJake Book -