Reemplazo de la placa lógica del MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010

Paso 1

Toma la lengüeta de plástico asegurada al candado del cable de datos de la pantalla y gírala hacia el lado de entrada de CC de la computadora.
Tira con cuidado del conector del cable de datos de la pantalla paralelo a la placa.
No tires del conector hacia arriba o podrías dañarlo.

On my system the pad on top of the connector was shifted making the bracket difficult to rotate into the up position. The bracket looks like a handle so my first instinct was to pull it straight up. Big mistake. I ended up popping the brass guard off the connector on the logic board. The instructions could benefit from an arrow indicating the direction to pull and rotation of the bracket.

highnoontoday -

Paso 2

Retira los dos tornillos siguientes que sujetan el soporte del cable de datos de la pantalla a la carcasa superior:
Un Phillips de 8,6 mm
Un Phillips de 5,6 mm
Levanta el soporte del cable de datos de la pantalla para sacarlo de la carcasa superior.

Paso 3

Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el subwoofer y el conector del altavoz derecho de la placa lógica.

Push it straight down. It should snap in.

BobG - 12/02/17

The first time i tried this on a MBP 13 I broke the connector form the board. It should be noted that you have to be very careful in this step, as the plug fits very tightly and you can easily use too much force to tear the connector from the board. Use a second spudger to hold down the connector at its border and try very gently using a second spudger to move the plug out of the connector upwards.

Joachim Kathmann - 16/08/20

Paso 4

Tira del conector del cable de la cámara hacia la unidad óptica para desconectarlo de la placa lógica.
Este enchufe es de metal y se puede doblar fácilmente. Asegúrate de alinear el conector con su zócalo en la placa lógica antes de acoplar las dos piezas.

As mentioned, the socket can be easily damaged when re-inserting it. I didn't care enough and one pin was damaged. Wifi was not detected.

Hopefully the pin was not broken (only bent). Putting it back in its correct position, the wifi re-appeared.

Arnaud ROSAY - 22/07/16

Paso 5

Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar la unidad óptica, el disco duro y los conectores del cable del trackpad de la placa lógica.

Paso 6

Usa la uña o la punta de un spudger para levantar la solapa de retención del cable en el zócalo ZIF para el cable plano del teclado.
Usa tu spudger para deslizar el cable plano del teclado fuera de su zócalo.

Sometimes spulger is not the best tool to slide the cable out. If it is difficult to slide, try two toothpicks to pull the cable from two sides simultaneosly.

Leo Nikitin -

Toothpicks did the trick, thanks

Gábor SEBESTYÉN -

As Mateo said, replacing the zif cable is NOT easy, and in this case, will leave you with a computer that won't power on- this cable connects the power button. I learned a trick somewhere for dealing with these cables- put a piece of good sticky tape on the cable, and use it to pull it back into the connector. Works every time.

stevesontheroad - 16/09/16

Yeah! The tape trick worked for me. Thanks!

Ted Bishop - 13/11/17

Thank you Steve, it’s works perfectly.

never_forever18 - 07/12/17

Paso 7

Despega la pequeña tira de cinta negra del conector del cable plano de la retroiluminación del teclado.

Be very careful while taking this black tape off. I accidentally broke the chip off the motherboard and so my keyboard is not backlit any more.

Asim Akath - 01/11/14

Paso 8

Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar la solapa de retención del cable en el zócalo ZIF para el cable plano de la retroiluminación del teclado.
Usa tu spudger para deslizar el cable plano de luz de fondo del teclado fuera de su zócalo.

Be especially careful as my hole socket detached from the board. It would have helped to vertically press the socket to the board with the tip of a spudger. Thus partially blocking the strap, you can first peel the free end, then change position and peel the rest. Slide the ribbon cable perfectly horizontally.

Rainer -

I had the same issue of trying to get the ZIF cable back in but found that if I used a piece of scotch tape, it worked. I followed this guide. MacBook unibody keyboard ribbon cable won't go in

spearson - 07/09/14

A reassembly trick that works for me is to use some 3/4" blue painters tape to stick to the very back (lower end) of the ribbon cable so I can pull it up and back before locking the cam. Trying to get a good grip without cutting, or crimping the ribbon means no tweezers or pliers can be used.

originalmachead - 11/11/14

Paso 9

Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector del cable del indicador de batería de la placa lógica.

If you’re swapping top cases, you might need to remove the battery indicator from the case and swap it to the replacement top case. It attaches with three very tiny Phillips screws. I wasn’t aware that my replacement top case didn’t have this part and got confused when reversing the steps to reassemble and I didn’t have this connector. I had to take the battery back out in order to swap the indicator over.

Mark Barnes - 21/09/18

Interesting this guide doesn’t have you disconnect the battery after step 2 then shows it unplugged already in step 14.

plink53 -

I would recommend revision to this guide to put battery disconnection as the first step after opening the bottom case. First rule of logic/mother boards: don’t work on or around if power is applied.

dsfeehan -

Paso 10

Usa la punta de un spudger para quitar el micrófono del adhesivo que lo une a la carcasa superior.

on the Australian/Asia version speaker cable is located underneath the logic board.

linuxuser101 -

Paso 11

Retire los siguientes tornillos:
Dos tornillos Torx T6 de 7 mm de la placa de entrada de CC
Cinco tornillos Torx T6 de 3,3 mm
Dos tornillos Torx T6 de 4 mm

Paso 12

No es estrictamente necesario quitar la batería antes de sacar la placa lógica, pero hace que quitar la placa lógica sea más fácil y seguro. Si dejas la batería adentro, ten especial cuidado de no doblar la placa lógica contra la caja de la batería cerca de su código de barras.
Retira los siguientes tornillos de tres puntas que sujetan la batería a la carcasa superior:
Un tornillo de tres puntas de 5,5 mm
Un tornillo de tres puntas de 13,5 mm
Saca la batería de la carcasa superior.

Paso 13

Levanta la placa lógica desde su borde izquierdo y levántala hasta que los puertos despejen el costado de la carcasa superior.
Separa la placa lógica del costado de la carcasa superior y retírala, teniendo cuidado con la placa de entrada de CC que puede quedar atrapada.

Be careful while taking the board out, as the heatsink usually is caught by the optic drive.

Leo Nikitin -

mid 2012: Careful of the left speaker (on your right because unit is upside down). Gently remove with spudger tool before removing logic board and when reinstalling press firmly back into place with spudger. Install speaker after putting logic board in place but before installing screws.

JASON CULP - 13/03/21

Step 18 is out of order. Steps following this show it still installed, which is confusing.