Reemplazo de la placa madre del DualShock 3

Es ist nicht ganz eindeutig das zwischen den beiden Analog-Sticks gedrückt werden muss. Der gelbe Punkt fällt kaum auf. Ein Bild mit Daumen an dieser Stelle wäre gut oder soooo…

it’s not very clear but for this step you need to push where the yellow dot is shown on the picture. it’s rather tough. you kind of have to move the whole back plate a bit for it to work.

I’m stuck at this step because I can’t for the life of me undo the clip

the "trigger button guide" link links back to this page :o

I accidentally popped a trigger off, and both L1 and R1, because I skimmed and didn't read this step. Fortunately it's not hard. The tricky part with the triggers is that there's a little spring on them. You have to press the side of the spring that's pointing away from the trigger against the sloped surface of the controller (look at the other trigger for reference, if you only popped one off). Then you just slide the trigger on until the "handlebar" bits near the center click into place.

The reset button – a small mostly-rectangular rubberized piece – fell out as I removed the rear cover. It covers the hole near the middle screw and has a post that presses SW1 on the motherboard.

be careful with the connector, it was hard at the first time to take it away, i was close to break the wire

Where can I purchase an Input Board?

Most of the times, the only thing you need to repair to fix random key-presses is the soft plastic under the input-board connector to the motherboard.

At step 6 just move the motherboard upwards and you'll be able to see the connector.

Take the black soft-plastic-thing under it, and make it thicker with some tape. ( roll some tape around it 3-4 times - cut the tape properly so it can fit afterwards )

Now put everything back.

Random Presses are gone. Both of my controllers had this problem after a few hot summers and many hours of gameplay... both are fixed now.

My ~2012 EU controller (CECHZC2E) differs from this point as well. The entire white assembly comes out of the black shell by pressing in the latches on both sides of the vibration motors (you can see a small bit of white plastic stick out from under the black shell, that is where you press down).

On my controller the button contact filament stayed inside the controller housing. Concerningly this exposed the contact ribbon for the buttons and sticks against the back of the logic board. However, the rest of the service with without issue, and the controller worked fine. This controller had a gray battery inside of it, and was likely a 60GB launch controller.

I currently have some Controllers here (Modelno CECHZC2E A1 and CECHZC2E B1) where you have to press the motors upwards (to the analog sticks) to remove it from the frame but it seems that the wires are to short to so instead I unsolder both motors from the chip. In my opinion, this is also more convenient when you have to remove the main chip, because you would have been finished after Step 6.

My model CHECHZC2U doesn't allow enough room to pull the motors through. I found it easier to clip the wires and splice them back together later, rather than unsolder/solder them back onto the board.

well is it meant to go off so easy so that why it is so stupid its just holding over the mainbord my controller dident charge or start so i removed the cover and lifter it a bit and i put it back and it works i mean who made it so it is free i mean something shuld hold it so it dosent happend to anyone like that happend to me -.- and that whas the problem well good controller i think desent good

Plz post an article for replacing joystick in dualshock game controller.

Andrew you really need to post where you can get the motherboards for the controller. You don't have it listed on parts. But the guide was useful!