Reemplazo de la placa madre del Samsung Galaxy S6

Paso 1

Inserta un clip o herramienta de expulsión de SIM en el orificio de la ranura de la tarjeta SIM en el lado del botón de encendido del teléfono.
Presione para expulsar la bandeja de la tarjeta SIM.
No presione demasiado fuerte o puede dañar la bandeja de la tarjeta SIM.

It really needs to be stated at the outset that if doing this repair to replace the daughterboard, there is a high likelihood that the display will be destroyed (even if you don’t break the display, the foil backing on it will likely be destroyed rendering it unusable). The PDF version of this guide states this at the beginning, but this online version does not.

David White - 14/03/19

Done. Thanks for the tip!

Minor editor - 23/09/19

Paso 2

Retire la bandeja de la tarjeta SIM del teléfono.

Paso 3

Te recomendamos que limpies tu microondas antes de continuar, ya que cualquier suciedad desagradable en la parte inferior puede terminar pegado al iOpener.
Coloca el iOpener en el centro del microondas.
Para microondas giratorios: Asegúrate de que la placa gira libremente. Si el iOpener se queda atascado, puede sobrecalentarse y quemarse.

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - 06/12/16

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - 29/12/16

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - 30/01/17

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - 19/07/17

Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

Yousef Ghalib - 16/09/17

I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

ian cheong - 22/06/19

Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

Tim Feyaerts - 13/07/19

The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

polleyphony - 28/12/19

The iOpener did not work at all for me.

I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

Mike Jeanette - 29/12/19

Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

Kyle - 05/01/20

The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

laurentvidu - 01/02/20

I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

breadandbits - 24/07/20

My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

trebor65 - 11/10/20

My experience pt2

Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

trebor65 - 11/10/20

Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

gazza667 - 16/11/20

I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

Dennis - 10/01/21

Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

Manu R - 05/02/21

If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

mpulliam - 07/02/21

Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

Esmond Pitt - 03/04/21

Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

doug - 23/04/21

I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

Richard O'Brien - 22/05/21

No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

nin10doh -

#### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

T z - 06/06/21

I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

Mizzoo, s.r.o. -

I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

Randal Haufler -

I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

janderson martin -

WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

Run Up A Tree -

I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

marcelflueeler -

I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

Tom Weber -

iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

jharrison -

Paso 4

Calienta el iOpener durante treinta segundos.
A lo largo del procedimiento de reparación, en cuanto el iOpener se enfríe, vuelve a calentarlo en el microondas treinta segundos más cada vez.
Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante la reparación. El sobrecalentamiento puede provocar que el iOpener se rompa.
Nunca toques el iOpener si parece estar hinchado.
Si el iOpener esta todavía demasiado caliente al tacto, sigue utilizándolo mientras esperas a que se enfríe un poco más antes de recalentar. Un iOpener adecuadamente climatizado debe mantenerse caliente durante un máximo de 10 minutos.

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - 22/12/16

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - 13/01/17

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - 14/07/17

There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

assortedrubbish - 29/08/17

All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

Greg Latta - 12/09/19

I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

dave - 01/12/17

If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

Patrick Storey - 01/01/18

I agree with this.

Jarl Friis -

I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

mark fitzgerald - 24/04/18

30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

K

Karl Marble - 06/07/18

I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

Bernhard Keim - 30/01/19

Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

Collins -

Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

Larry Bennett - 24/02/19

I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

Fixrights - 30/04/19

iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

digital_only - 13/10/19

Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

Berard Romain - 23/12/19

Bonjour,

Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

Claire Miesch - 23/12/19

Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

breadandbits - 24/07/20

Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

G Trieste - 05/02/21

Get a heat gun.

alesha adamson - 09/09/20

I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

Dennis - 31/01/21

I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

cvela90 - 23/06/21

After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

Collins -

It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

Sergey Kofanov -

I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

manningrl -

You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

William Draheim -

Paso 5

Saca el iOpener del microondas, tomándolo por una de las esquinas planas para evitar el centro caliente.
El iOpener estará muy caliente, ten cuidado cuando lo manipules. Utiliza guantes de horno si es necesario.

I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

Cobus de Beer - 22/07/18

I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

Billinski -

Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

breadandbits - 24/07/20

I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

John - 07/09/20

I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

Robin - 02/10/20

This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

Mark -

If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

Jarl Friis -

Paso 6

Si no tienes un microondas, sigue este paso para calentar su iOpener en agua hirviendo.
Llena una olla o cacerola con suficiente agua para sumergir completamente el iOpener.
Calienta el agua hasta que hierva. Apaga el fuego.
Coloca un iOpener en el agua caliente durante 2-3 minutos. Asegúrate de que el iOpener esté completamente sumergido en el agua.
Utiliza unas pinzas para extraer el iOpener calentado del agua caliente.
Seca bien el iOpener con una toalla.
El iOpener estará muy caliente, así que ten cuidado de sujetarlo sólo por las lengüetas de los extremos.
Tu iOpener está listo para ser utilizado. Si necesita recalentar el iOpener, calienta el agua hasta que hierva, apaga el fuego y coloca el iOpener en el agua durante 2-3 minutos.

What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

alexdelarge103@gmail.com -

Use a hair dryer

Edited To the max -

2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

Robert Garcia -

When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

Robert Garcia -

Paso 7

Abrir tu teléfono comprometerá los los sellos impermeables. Ten preparado adhesivo de reemplazo antes de proceder o ten cuidado para evitar exposición al líquido si vuelves a ensamblar tu teléfono sin reemplazar el adhesivo.
Si tu vidrio está hecho pedazos, coloca cinta de embalaje sobre todo el panel para mantenerlo unido durante el proceso de eliminación.
Coloca el iOpener caliente sobre el panel trasero durante dos minutos para soltar el adhesivo alrededor del borde del cristal.
Necesitarás volver a calentar y aplicar el iOpener varias veces para alcanzar la temperatura suficiente. Consulta las instrucciones del iOpener para evitar sobrecalentamiento del dispositivo.
Mueve el iOpener para calentar la sección restante del panel durante dos minutos.
También se puede utilizar un secador de pelo, pistola de calor, o lámina caliente, pero ten cuidado de no sobre calentar el móvil -la pantalla OLED y la batería interna son susceptibles a daño por calor.

the way we do it at Get it fixed cellphone repair calgary is with a heat gun, wich is way easier than this, make sure to wear some gloves and dont worry to use to much heat as long as you point just to the back of the phone, (the back panel is thick enough to protect the logic board from over heat) instead of the usual blue plastic piece i sugest to use the thinnest metal razor knife and a business card so you can insert the business card and move it all around the frame, those blue plastic things are way too thick that will break the glass panel if you apply to much pressure

get it fixed - 21/03/17

After did that with my own heat pad, the white paint got ripped off but luckily glass back cover did not break. So I scratched all white part of the back cover and now its all transparent.

Jae Chung - 30/03/17

haha, the same happened for me after using a hair dryer. While still hot, the paint peeled of very easily. (too bad the mid-frame visually blocks most of the circuits…)

Michael - 12/09/20

I used a purpose built heating device at 100 degree celsius. Lower temperatures didn't work.

ken - 23/08/17

I used a blow dryer, attached my multimeter heat sensor to the back to monitor the temperature. At 54 degrees Celsius I could separate the back with a suction cup from my phone without damaging the paint.

LRD - 30/10/18

I gave up on the hot bag after 4 heat and apply cycles. I was only getting the back up to 60c using an infrared thermometer. I switched to a harbor freight 1500w heat gun set to Low, moving constantly around the back, until the back read 95c. The back came off easily at that point.

Nathan Wray - 07/12/18

I found another site that said temps of 203F/95C were required to soften the glues. Once I started using those temps with my heat gun, as well as a tool I made by just cutting the flat front/back panel from a package of screws (any plastic package that has a flat panel will work) , I had the back off in no time. Had I continued to use the plastic pick shown in the instructions, I really doubt I would have gotten the back off since I couldn’t get enough force on the back from my suction cup. The thin package plastic acted almost like a knife as I moved it around the outside edge. WARNING: If you have to reheat the back, REMOVE THE PACKAGE PLASTIC!! It will start to melt from the heat of a heat gun. Good Luck!!

morttormjch - 21/03/19

I had a pristine s6 edge I’m replacing the battery in. I can agree with many others about the amount of heart needed and need to where gloves. I had to heat several times using a heat gun. After several attempts phone broke free from suction cup went flying and now I have a phone with broken screen. Oh well, glad it’s not my primary phone. After getting it above 100c, the back glass finally started to separate. You need another person to be ready with a pick. Once you get one pick in, the rest is .

Brian Gillan - 19/07/20

Neither I had any success with the iopener. I ended up heating with a hair dryer. The metallic edges become quite hot.

BTW: My phone’s “Rear Glass” is actually plastic. It didn’t seem like it would crack very easily.

Michael - 12/09/20

To get an even heat distribution at just the right temperature to easily pry the back off I used a steam iron, dry, set between wool and cotton. To hold down the phone I clamped it at the long edges with 2 strips of 1/4” furniture grade plywood cut at 7 degrees, screwed to 2’ 2x6; and then clamped the 2x6 to my work table. This made it much easier to persuade to back off without any oops!

Michael Bielec - 26/02/21

I used a hot and cold gel pad usually intended for injuries. It needed about 4 cycles of warming the phone but then worked like a charm.

Sam Turner - 17/05/21

Paso 8

Una vez que el panel esté lo suficientemente caliente al tacto, coloca una ventosa lo más cerca posible del borde calentado, evitando la parte curvada.
Levanta de la ventosa para crear un pequeño espacio por debajo del cristal trasero e inserta una púa de apertura en el espacio.
Como opción, una vez que la púa esté introducida, puedes agregar unas pocas gotas de alcohol isopropílico dentro del espacio para ayudar a debilitar el adhesivo en los pasos siguientes.

If the rear screen is cracked/smashed, you will not be able to use a suction cup to remove it. The suction could would not seal because of the cracks. I tried masking tape, 3M shiny HVAC tape, and others, and the suction could would not seal to those surfaces either.

I ended up using the sharp point of the smudger to remove some shards of glass to get underneath the cover to leverage it up and out. Definitely use gloves and safety glasses if you have to do this.

dougpender - 26/09/15

Thank you for your comment. I needed to see this particular instance of what to do when the back cover was cracked. I was going to try to suction it with tape covering it. This saved me some heartache. You're an angel!!

Jessie Brooks - 15/08/16

Be careful during this step- reapply heat before attempting this one (battery issues tend to melt internal “areas” ) and this area is most prone to crack during the lifting of the back plate.

[deleted] - 19/12/18

I think it is just about impossible to do this without at least removing some paint on the edges. Order a new back before you attempt this. It has the adhesive already on it and costs less than $10 on eBay.

Thomas Hayes - 01/09/19

In order to get in more easily, I normally use the iFlex (the metal one) which is thin enough to create a little space, and then i insert a thinner plastic sheet, just like the default screen protector you might find on some huawei or xiaomi phones. That plus half a drop of alcohol should do the trick. Use caution and be very patient.

Stefano Restuccia - 16/10/19

Ridiculous. I put a heat gun on mine for 30 seconds, 3 times, couldn’t get the screen to move AT ALL while pulling very hard with suction cups.

Enough of this ‘you don’t get to mess with the battery’ nonsense. Quit screwing people over. Also, I love my ifixit kit. I had to make the post less negative.

Adam Talbott - 10/03/21

Really struggling removing the screen. It’s not budging at all.

Paul Knight - 07/04/21

Paso 9

Desliza la púa de apertura a lo largo del borde del teléfono separando el adhesivo que sujeta el cristal trasero.
Luego, podría ayudar dejar la púa en su lugar y toma una segunda púa mientras procedes con el paso siguiente. Al dejar la púa insertada podría ayudar a prevenir que el pegamento que separes se vuelva a adherir.
Vuelve a calentar el cristal trasero cuando sea necesario para prevenir que el pegamento se enfría y endurezca.

Be careful that the bottom of the phone is well heated, and add a drop or so of isopropyl alcohol. When I removed the back glass of my S6, some of the black coating on the glass stayed stuck to the adhesive, so to return my phone to its original appearance, I’ll have to get a new back glass.

Gary F - 28/05/19

I needed help of a second person to insert the first pick. Apart from that, it was a one person job for me.

Michael - 12/09/20

Paso 10

Repite el paso previo de calentado y corte del adhesivo en los tres bordes restantes.
Deja una púa de apertura en cada borde del dispositivo mientras continúas para evitar que se vuelva a unir con el adhesivo.

At this stage I didn’t use a plastic pick as I think they are too thick and will crack a screen that’s not already cracked. I used a stainless steel

I sesame blade which does a much better job of cutting through the adhesive. Just be careful not to insert it in too far. I sometimes put a mark on my blade to ensure it doesn’t go in too far.

Wayne Lyell - 03/02/18

I used a card like the ones people use to play poker or any card game with. Only one was needed to separate the back without any damage to the paint.

LRD - 30/10/18

Be sure to apply a decent amount of heat when removing the last bit of the rear glass, cracked the rear of my screen (only a small amount mind) trying too use too much force not enough heat for the last spot.

spank2103 - 09/11/18

Paso 11

Usa una púa de apertura para cortar cualquier adhesivo restante.
Remueve el cristal trasero.

The rear glass is very fragile. I cracked mine across the camera opening while cleaning off the old sealant. Next time ( I will have to order one and do it again…doh) I’ll place it on a flat surface while cleaning it.

Greg Scott - 27/01/19

This is also a really good time to remove the SIM tray

John Murphy - 09/10/19

Paso 12

Para instalar un cristal trasero nuevo:
Usa pinzas para despegar cualquier adhesivo restante de cristal trasero y el chasis del teléfono.
Luego, limpia las áreas de adhesión con alcohol isopropólico de concentración alta ( al menos 90%) y un paño anti-pelusa. Desliza en una dirección solamente, no desde atrás hacia adelante. Esto ayudará a preparar la superficie para un adhesivo nuevo.
Despega el adhesivo del nuevo cristal trasero, alinea cuidadosamente un borde del cristal contra el chasis del teléfono y presiona firmemente el cristal contra el teléfono.
Si estás reinstalando el viejo cristal trasero, o usando el cristal trasero sin el adhesivo preinstalado, sigue esta guía.

You should note that the adhesive strip may need to be fully removed from the frame in order to proceed with repairs. The adhesive on my phone covered all of the screws exposed in the next step.

Sean Cruz - 01/05/17

When I did my battery, the adhesive stayed almost 100% on the back glass and was still in good shape. What didn’t remain attached only lifted slightly and I was able to coax it back to its original location with tweezers. I didn’t bother to remove and replace the adhesive layer because mine was still good. I set the glass out of the way where it wouldn’t get dirt on the adhesive while I finished the battery swap. I added some additional heat (hair dryer) after reattaching the glass to make sure the adhesive made the best seal.

Wayne Thomason - 10/11/18

Paso 13

Retira los trece tornillos Phillips # 00 de 3.5 mm que sujetan el medio marco al teléfono.

Make sure you do not mix up these thirteen screws with a hidden 14th screw under the mid-frame chassis, on the left side of the headphone port, on daughter-board. This 14th screw is shorter than the other screws, so make sure you do not replace it with one of the longer screws. It will push up against the front glass and lift it away from the adhesive.

David Whyte - 07/02/18

Some of the female threads are soft plastic and will strip out easily (especially those near the bottom). I was pressing down too hard when removing these screws, and several of them stripped out. The frame still screwed together, but I couldn’t get them very tight.

Jordan Butler - 09/09/20

Paso 14

Antes de realizar este paso, asegúrate de haber expulsado la bandeja de la tarjeta SIM.
Sujeta firmemente el borde del conjunto del medio marco.
Levanta el conjunto del medio marco mientras empujas hacia abajo la batería para separar el conjunto del medio marco del resto del teléfono.
Al levantar el medio marco, ten cuidado de evitar el engancharlo en la toma de audio o puerto de carga.
Una vez que el marco medio es parcialmente separado, pasa una pua de apertura alrededor de las esquinas del resto del teléfono para separar la parte superior del marco del medio.
Se cuidadoso de no insertar accidentalmente la pua de apertura entre el cristal de la pantalla
Para evitar daño al conector de audífonos, remueve la parte superior del marco medio primero, después empuja el marco medio hacia abajo para desengancharlo del puerto de audífonos.
Capaz tendrás que calentar y aplicar el iOpener a los bordes de la pantalla para ablandar el adhesivo de pantalla si el marco medio es difícil.

FIRMLY GRASP IT! - Patrick

Armen Orbelyan - 05/08/16

%#*@ coulda told me sooner

Geronimo Jones -

Bei diesem Schritt sicher sein, dass SIM Card Fach entfernt ist!

zikal - 21/01/17

I found the glue still very sticky here, i had to go around with my picks to free it, its very stuck with a UK version, beware!!

databeat1 - 30/01/17

I damaged my screen here a bit, be careful not too slide your pick between the digitizer and the screen.

Anton - 22/03/18

i suggest to apply heat on the corners of the front screen to lose the adhesive a lil bit and push from the bottom back of the phone right where the wireless charger is because of the charging port

get it fixed - 21/03/17

When grabbing from the bottom, you fun the risk of damaging the charging port and headphone jack. I would suggest starting from the top. This is because the two ports at the bottom slide down into the frame. There is also adhesive that will give you a little resistance.

Alex Philip - 13/04/17

Step 18 is not correct, you have to start from the top. You can damage the charge port

Daniel Yaben - 17/12/17

On mine the adhesive actually tore away part of the colored film on the back of the screen glass rather than separating from it. I’m guessing applying heat to the screen corners first would help avoid this (I didn’t). https://imgur.com/a/V7vZQ

Brian Hardie - 28/03/18

Don’t stick a pick into the screen side of the frame. You will almost certainly start to separate the digitizer and LCD. Plus there is hardly anything to pry against anyway.

Thomas Hayes - 01/09/19

Paso 15

Levanta el conjunto del medio marco para separarlo del resto del teléfono.

Achtung! Bei meiner Reperatur, besonders bei Schritt 14, Auf gar keinen Fall versuchen den Kleber mit einem der Plektren zu lösen. Dort kann man schnell zwischen Displayrahmen und Glas rutschen und so das Display beschädigen!!!

TheECanyon - 30/01/19

Paso 16

Usa el extremo plano del spudger para desconectar el conector de la batería de su zócalo en la placa madre.

Paso 17

Usa el borde puntiagudo de un spudger para desconectar los conectores del cable de antena Bluetooth y Wi-Fi de sus enchufes en la placa base.

This portion of the repair caused me problems after phone was closed up. The bluetooth cable on the left of the phone was not placed back into its cable track and was pinched off by screen once frame was placed in metal housing.

Sebastian Diaz - 28/07/18

Paso 18

Usa el extremo plano del spudger para desconectar el conector del botón de inicio.

Paso 19

Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el cable del conjunto de la pantalla de la placa base.

Does taking the motherboard out wipe the phone?

Uil'yam - 10/05/17

No, after disconnecting the battery there’s no way for info to be moved from the memory, until it’s connected to a power source again.

Wayne Lyell - 03/02/18

Paso 20

Desconecta el conector del cable del ensamblaje del altavoz del auricular de la placa base.

Paso 21

Levanta el extremo del lado de la cámara de la placa base para separarlo del marco de la pantalla.
Es posible que debas quitar algunos de los cables planos mientras levantas la placa base. Si es difícil levantar la placa, verifica que esté completamente desconectada y que no esté atrapada en ningún cable plano.
No quites completamente la placa base todavía; aún está conectada a la placa secundaria a través de un cable plano en la parte inferior de la placa base.

Paso 22

Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el conector del cable plano de la placa secundaria de su zócalo en la parte inferior de la placa base.

Paso 23

Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar la cámara frontal de su conector en la placa base.
Retira la cámara.

Samsung galaxy s6 motherboard price give me

Send me dilevary

Mahendra Choudhary - 13/04/18

Paso 24

Usa el extremo plano del spudger para desconectar la cámara trasera de su zócalo en la placa base.
Retira la cámara.

the display of my phone is broken..so if i connect my motherboard into another s6(same model phone) device will it work???will i get all of my data??or if someone try to steal my motherboard and connect it into other s6 display,will my security(fingerprint,app locker) still work??another question ..is my all apps and information saves in the motherboard??please tell me.

musfik - 12/11/17

Reemplazo de la placa madre del Samsung Galaxy S6

Introducción

Herramientas

Partes

Paso 1

Paso 2

Paso 3

Paso 4

Paso 5

Paso 6

Paso 7

Paso 8

Paso 9

Paso 10

Paso 11

Paso 12

Paso 13

Paso 14

Paso 15

Paso 16

Paso 17

Paso 18

Paso 19

Paso 20

Paso 21

Paso 22

Paso 23

Paso 24

Autor

Evan Noronha

11 comentarios