Introducción

En esta guía aprenderás como quitar los motores de vibración alojados en los disparadores. Esta tarea requiere que desmontes completamente los disparadores en el controlador.

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    • Retira la cubierta del paquete de baterías.

    • Retira las baterías.

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    • Recomendamos el uso de un spudger de nylon para este paso. Se muestra un spudger de metal.

    • Sujeta el controlador firmemente para quitar las asas laterales, encajando un spudger en la costura entre la parte delantera y las placas del mango.

    • Levanta la placa lateral alejándola de la placa frontal moviendo el spudger hacia adelante y hacia atrás. Tendrás que hacer esto en toda la costura de la placa lateral.

    Start prying the side plate off underneath the trigger, this makes it easier to disconnect the other clips connecting the side plate to the backplate.

    Brandon -

    One you take it off, is it possible to click it back in?

    Aiden Bear -

    As long as you don’t exceed the couple tons you need to take it off you should be able to put it back.

    Brandon -

    I don’t have a squdger

    TimidFerret4982 Gaming -

    getting those handles back on seems impossible, they just dont fit as well, a gap remains even after snapping into place.

    Dont think ill be doing this in the future

    Spoutin Wyze -

    edit: wiggled the bo9ttom middlewith the handles off and somethign finally “clicked” into place for that extra 1/4 mm for the down arrow on my D-Pad to click back up into place!.

    Spoutin Wyze -

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    • Hay un tornillo escondido en la parte central trasera del mando

    • Utiliza el destornillador para hacer un agujero en el centro, y poder así, quitar el tornillo

    • También puedes quitar la etiqueta si no deseas hacer un agujero en ella

    • Quita los 5 tornillos de 10mm que están en la parte trasera del mando utilizando el "T8 Security Torx Screwdriver"

    i damaged my screws. how do i get the screws out?

    tenzin -

    wait. i just watched a video guide on ifixit's youtube channel about damaged screws. i'll try those methods.

    tenzin -

    It's a t8 or t9 security bit btw, I got the top two out with a regular T8, but the bottom two and middle needed a T9 Security bit.

    David Loper -

    All five faceplate/backplate screws in the controller I disassembled were T8 security fasteners.

    John Dziedzic -

    Am I doing something wrong because I got the tool it said I needed and got the middle screw out but the others have a bump or something in the center of the screw and it won't fit.

    kolton77 -

    The T8 is only good for the middle screw on my One S controller. The others require something bigger

    Matej Skelo -

    These requires SECURITY Torx bits (they have a cannulated hole in the driver). I don't believe the iFixIt branded driver is cannulated but you can buy a set of bits from DeWalt DWAX200 which is overkill but has what you need.

    jhighsmith -

    The driver that iFixIt sells is cannulated.

    jhighsmith -

    where do you get this dumb ass screw driver

    Jake Zweier -

    iFixit Store #IF145-027-3

    VauWeh -

    You can bypass it with a 1.5mm flathead.

    Marianne Sandling -

    thank you for this. worked for me

    Mr Anderson (Evolluisionist) -

    These screws required a T10, not T8.

    Armand -

    TR9. A $10 kit from Walmart has the bit/driver in it and extra goodies to make life simple.

    Matt Martin -

    As weird as it sounds, the top 2 came out for me with a flathead- but the bottom two and the middle one wont

    macybrooksevans -

    If you damage the middle part of the screws you can still take it out with the same screwdriver.

    Kev God -

    Thank-You :)

    Isaiah -

    needed a T8H, not easy to see.

    on a grey green xbox one controller

    Michael -

    You need a T8 and the kit is not $10 it’s $13.88 Hyper Tough Electronic Kit. In the hardware section at WalMart it a T8 because I tried everything and only a T8 fit it like a magnet. And the dumbass that wrote the article there is only 1 freaking screw.

    Bear Darazs -

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    • Retira la placa posterior.

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    • Retire la placa frontal.

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    • Podras dejar los motores vibradores colgando fuera de su base

    • Desolda los cables rojos y negros de la parte superior de la placa

    • Desolda los cables negros y grises de la parte superior de la placa

    • Remueve los motores vibradores y déjalos aun lado.

    • Se cuidadoso cuando usas el cautín, no dañes otros componentes o te lastimes.

    • Para mayor información de como soldar, presiona aquí

    Steps 6-8 aren't completely necessary, and are very risky if you aren't good at soldering. It would seem the only reason to remove the motherboard and mess with all this soldering is just so you can reach both screws on the trigger in step 10. However, you can reach them already with a small-bodied screwdriver. Although you might have to rest the screwdriver on the black square processor to reach the bottom screw, it shouldn't damage the processor or motherboard to jimmy that screw out.

    Robert Rapier -

    like mentioned by ‘Robert Rapier’ you can skip the de-soldering in most cases,

    for example cleaning or changing the buttons is doable, but the grey and black wires are pretty short

    and wired through the inner case so it can get a bit fiddly and you have to be careful not to damage them in the process.

    If you have a soldering station around i would still recommend using it.

    yKekS Yzz -

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    • Desatornilla los dos tornillos de T6 de 7mm localizados cerca de las bases de los motores.

    Are these just T6 screws or Torx security T6 that is cannulated?

    Kenan Vickstrom -

    The outer screws are security screws. The ones on the system boards are Torx.

    Rongwey -

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    • Sujeta firmemente la placa superior cerca del medio

    • Levanta hacia arriba mientras mueve ligeramente la placa base hacia adelante y hacia atrás.

    • Levantar la placa base requerirá algo de fuerza.

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    • Quita la cinta amarilla que mantiene los cables en su posición en la parte delantera del controlador.

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    • Desatornilla los dos tornillos T6 Hex de 7 mm alojados en la parte de la abajo de los disparadores.

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    • Quita las cubiertas de los disparadores.

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    • Desuelda los cables que van a la placa base.

    • Quita los motores de vibracion desde sus enchufes y tira del cable con ellos

    Perso après le remontage ça n'a jamais refonctionné ma manette détecte plus du tout les gachettes et jai changé les joysticks en même temps et eux non plus ne detecte plus….

    Tuto Free -

Conclusión

Para volver a montar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

Tommy

Miembro Desde 22/01/15

1867 Reputación

10 comentarios

After a drop onto tile flooring, the side clip of the outer handle snapped and got lodged into the trigger, causing it to only pull to 80% and go no further. Thanks for this breakdown.

solofrom303 -

My right trigger won't work on gta 5 and on other games it works

Devean Velasquez -

Very strange, Devean. That sounds more like a software problem than a hardware problem, if I had to guess. If you haven't already, maybe check to make sure that your control setup is correct.

Alternatively, see if you can find any other games that your RT doesn't work for, and see what they have in common with GTA - it might be that the trigger isn't registering as fully depressed, or only ever registering when fully depressed.

Liam Gow -

Trying to replace bumpers assembly and green sync button fell out can not figure how to put it back in.

Anthony Bembenek -

Do you know how to remove the plastic plate where the trigger rumble sits?

Angel Marban -

Could you not just pull the wires?

Spencer Alty -

How do you place the wires back onto the trigger rumble?

Timmy Sparkles -

Where would one buy the replacement trigger motors?

Jared Thicc -

Both wires fell out of one of the motors. How would I be able to fix this?

Abler e -

can this guide be reworked to add rumble feature to the powera fusion controller for nintendo switch?

Xavier Beck -