Reemplazo de panel frontal de iPod Touch 4ta Generacion

Escrito Por: Walter Galan
  • Comentarios: 181
Reemplazo de panel frontal de iPod Touch 4ta Generacion

Dificultad

Difícil

Pasos

13

Tiempo Requerido

2 horas

Introducción

Use esta guía para reemplazar el panel frontal.

""El panel frontal no se puede separar del LCD"". El reemplazo del mismo incluye un panel de vidrio, el digitalizador y la pantalla.

Si los has comprado por separado, ten cuidado al pegar el LCD al digitalizador debido a que la superficie del LCD esta cubierta de pegamento. Una vez que se pegue al LCD no podras removerlo

  1. GYPJZwBLINDTRcS5

    • El panel frontal del iPod Touch de 4.ª generación está unido a la carcasa trasera con adhesivo. Se recomienda encarecidamente el uso de una pistola de calor para ablandar el adhesivo.

    • Con la pistola de calor configurada en "baja", comienza a calentar la parte inferior del Touch cerca del botón de inicio.

    • Se sugiere calentar la porción deseada en un patrón de movimiento circular para disipar uniformemente la cantidad de calor en todo el dispositivo.

    do I have to use a heat gun

    Fabiola Winfield -

    yes it is crucial

    ben folks -

    but u can use a hair dryer on warm

    ben folks -

    I didn't use a heat gun but this was due to the glass being rather shattered and not just cracked in the corner. The rule of thumb might be to not use excessive force, if you see that you need to use the heat gun or a blow dryer as someone suggested. I also wanted to point out the the adhesive strip just around the edges was exposed and it is rather strong so I was able to pull it around part of the edge which actually helped the glass disengage.

    nirv -

    Hi, thanks to this tutorial achieves replace my iPod battery to 100%, it was difficult, so thanks iFixit!

    The only problem I had was with the iFixit screwdriver disappointed me greatly, as it can not remove the screws with the screwdriver.

    A tip for those who first make repairs before starting the disarmament carefully read through the tutorial to not make a mistake that could damage your iPod and do not forget to place pieces in a safe place so they are not lost.

    Greetings from Guatemala

    Alfonso.

    Alfonso Espinoza -

    well then u suck

    ben folks -

    Be careful with the heat gun!! Don`t use it too much. You can melt something inside, specially when you`re closing the iPod.

    Luiz R -

    No man you can use a blow dryer!

    Colton B -

    Would a heat bead bag be safer option to weaken the adhesive?

    Angus McLauchlan -

    I had success with as low as 80°C using a hair dryer to melt the adhesive, I kept track of it with a meat thermometer. The battery says it's rated only up to 60°C...

    micahvanderhill -

    I got through all the parts to take the wifi antenna out!! But, I'm having a hard time putting the stuff back!!

    ~Palm head~ But thank you ifixit for the great and awesome directions, I understand clearly!! Thank you very much

    Kaiden -

    A hairdryer perfectly does the job. I’d recommend heating the bottom for 20 seconds, then attempt at inserting a plastic pick between the glass and the chassis. If it doesn’t work, reapply some heat in 10 seconds intervals until the glue gives in. You shouldn’t have to exert lots of force to release the adhesive, heat should do the job.

    Then apply some heat to the top of the screen to release the remaining adhesive. Opening is straightforward. Just beware of the ultra little slack of the short yet fragile flexible digitizer cable.

    Olivier Biot -

    Thanks for the tip!

    Lua Tech -

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    • Cuidado, ya que el Touch estará muy caliente. Puede ser útil sostenerlo con una toalla mientras hace palanca.

    • Inserta el borde de una herramienta de apertura de iPod entre el panel de vidrio frontal y el marco de plástico cerca del botón de inicio.

    • No intentes hacer palanca entre el bisel de plástico y la caja trasera de acero.

    • Haz palanca en el borde inferior del panel frontal hacia arriba, teniendo cuidado de no doblar el vidrio en exceso.

    • Si es demasiado difícil levantar el conjunto del panel frontal, vuelve a calentarlo y vuelve a intentarlo.

    There should be (in general) better notes about the reassembly process. Getting the thing glued back in is WAY harder than just "reverse this step." Getting it to sit flush with any kind of adhesion is pretty difficult. No real advice other than make sure the edges of the metal thing at the top of the back of the digitizer are in the right slots and use judiciously placed pieces of 3M 300LSE adhesive.

    jonathan -

    I actually just figured it out. I had the ribbon cable for the digitizer running under the LCD and that wasn't allowing the LCD to sit down far enough. By re-folding the digitizer cable so it was triple-folded (when you do it you'll see what I mean) and only under the glass where there is no LCD, you'll get the glass to sit right.

    jonathan -

    I'm havin' problems with mine... hum, the front panel broke and i don't know where can i buy a new one. Can you help me?! Detail, the Touch screen still working... the external screen is broken, but the internal is ok...

    Nathan Bergmann -

    EBay mate sells plenty

    Greg W -

    Glue is under the black part of the glass, not under the clear part of the glass.

    The Glue is mostly around the top and bottom about 1/2 inch in or so, around both left and right edges the strip of glue is very thin about 1/8 inch or so.

    I had success with heat and sliding the tool or pick up and down the side where there is less glue until it started separating being careful that I was between front glass panel and the black plastic bezel.

    Evon Waters -

    Take a look at the post What parts to move from the broken screen?

    That will give you some advice as to what to move over from the broken screen, metal bracket, home button and small sponge spacer on the tip of the digitizer connector. Also how important it is to use new adhesive. If after assembling the screen bulges on one side (top or bottom) take the time to dissasemble and check that everything is in place (flat) and like jonathan writes, the digitizer cable is folded.

    asle -

  3. 1Av4s1DKeDS53ugT

    • Cuando haya suficiente espacio para agarrar el borde inferior del panel frontal, levántalo del cuerpo del Touch para despegar el adhesivo a lo largo de los bordes izquierdo y derecho.

    • Si el adhesivo es demasiado difícil de separar, usa una pistola de aire caliente para ablandarlo antes de continuar.

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    • Debido a la construcción del Touch de cuarta generación, el cable del digitalizador no se puede desconectar hasta que se retire la placa lógica. Ten mucho cuidado al manipular el conjunto del panel frontal, ya que está conectado al resto del Touch por el cable digitalizador muy delicado.

    • El cable de datos de la pantalla es muy corto y está conectado a la placa lógica cerca de la parte superior del conjunto del panel. Si no se desconecta mientras liberas el borde superior del ensamblaje del panel frontal, asegúrate de desconectarlo con una herramienta de apertura de iPod antes de girar el ensamblaje del panel para sacarlo del Touch.

    • Retira con cuidado la parte superior del conjunto del panel frontal del adhesivo que lo sujeta al Touch, teniendo cuidado con el cable digitalizador corto que conecta los dos componentes.

    The LCD cable which attaches to the logic board, is, indeed, very short. When reassembling the iPod, you may only be able to leave a small crack between the glass and the body to allow for enough space to reattach this cable. A plastic opening tool works well, but be warned: it takes quite a bit of patience.

    reidbauer -

    Indeed the LCD cable which attaches to the logic board is short and I spent a good 30 minutes trying to get it to seat. When I finally did I realized I broke the right side and that is why my display is not working now. When they say difficult, they mean difficult - I have experience with electronics and I recommend you first practice on an older unit if you can.

    kitlammers -

    Most guides recommend simply cutting the digitizer cable once you have disconnected the data cable. This makes things much simpler for subsequent steps rather than having the front panel dangling there.

    bowlingb -

    Before i do this repair, does my screen have to be all together. Because my iPod got cracked a while ago, so do i have to buy a new screen so i can put the jack in? Also what goes first in the process when doing both of those things ?

    Diondre Jordan -

    Reconnecting the data cable is actually pretty easy. Just hold your screen at a 90 degree angle and put it on your underlying surface (and not on the back part of your ipod). Then just use the opening tool to reconnect the cable. The cable is long enough. If you connected it properly try pushing the home button on the back part (not the actual button). If done properly, your screen should light up. (if not try again to connect the cable) Then just fold the screen onto the back part without lifting it. The cable disconnects very easily.

    12cw47 -

    Maybe if you could show an image pointing out the the digitizer and display cable. I missed the part that the display cable pops off, and didn't get to it until almost the end.

    jimjty -

  5. lftXchsPppTlFraq

    • Retira los siguientes ocho tornillos Phillips #00:

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 3,5 mm

    • Dos tornillos Phillips de 3,0 mm

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 2,3 mm

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 2,4 mm

    • Tres tornillos Phillips de 2,0 mm

    The antenna cable will almost always stick to the digitzer and often the glass is broken there. You can use a knife to pick out broken glass around the edges elsewhere but use ONLY PLASTIC tool to separate the antenna cable from the old digitzer. This cable is very thin and a metal tool can easily cut the cable which you cannot then repair but must buy a replacement.

    asle -

    If you are removing broken glass be sure to recover the steel plate glued to the top of glass as well as the home button at the bottom of the assembly.

    Mark -

    This steel plate or bracket has been discussed many times here. My best experience is to NOT move it to a new screen. Without the bracket and using enough adhesive in fact brings the new screen closer to the chassis and a snugger fit. Read more here: What parts to move from the broken screen?

    asle -

    Notice, in the image the switch for the home button has a tiny sub-1mm dot in the center of it. When I reassembled the home button did not work. That tiny cylinder of material had been knocked off the switch. A rounded probe could still activate the switch, but the flat metal plate on the home button could not. Fortunately, I was working on a white cloth, and a careful search turned up the tiny cylinder. I was able to reattach it and repair the home button.

    ciradrak -

    I would like to add that the tiny cylinder is 0.65mm in diameter and 0.20mm high. I was able to successfully reattach it using a thick cyanoacrylate. You must be careful not to foul the switch's membrane with too much glue. I would suggest using fine point tweezers and a metal probe to apply the tiny dot of glue. You need a steady hand for this.

    ciradrak -

  6. OFdlRegKqwsrgiVH

    • Usa el borde de una herramienta de apertura de iPod para levantar la delgada cubierta de acero de la cámara trasera.

    • Ten en cuenta el pequeño resorte ubicado cerca del bisel al lado de la cámara (resaltado en amarillo).

    • Retira la cubierta de acero del iPod.

    Be sure to get the tool down deep when removing the rear camera. If not, you can accidentally snag the mid-section of the camera and it will come apart -- and you'll end up buying a replacement.

    Country Computer Service -

    I have snagged that part of the camera several times. Easy to fix with super-glue along the edges of the cover. Works great. Sometimes no matter how carefully you pry up it falls apart.

    asle -

    This metal plate fits under plastic near RHS edge, and other side drops between the camera and a circuit board - to refit, you may need to loosen a nearby screw to allow you to move the circuit board a little to let this metal plate clip onto the side of the camera.

    I had to press down hard with a plastic tool to get this metal plate to clip on.

    Don't forget to re-tighten it later (I forgot).

    phil colbourn -

    A strip metallic cover, glued to display isn't mentioned in this guide.

    Note that most new front panels are going without this part and you would need to remount it.

    Daniel Filatov -

    what exactly is the copper tape for that sits over the backplate that covers the rear camera? it gives me trouble every time.

    yhwhelrey0 -

    The copper is important for heat dispensing. It has nothing to do with grounding or signal. In worst case if it is torn the Touch could get hotter but should work. If it is torn I usually just lift up one part and move it so it is in contact with the other copper part.

    asle -

    I just replaced the screen and rear cam on my 4th gen. The camera does not work??? Any ideas????????

    mark -

    Maybe the rear camera connection got loose when you lifted up the logic board in top to replace the digitizer. I would open it again and check the connection to the rear camera. Hope you fix it!

    asle -

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    • Inserta el borde de una herramienta de apertura debajo de la placa intermedia de acero cerca de la esquina inferior izquierda del Touch.

    • Haz palanca lentamente hacia arriba para separar la placa del adhesivo que la sujeta a la carcasa interior de plástico.

    • Si la placa aún está unida a la placa lógica, vuelve a calentar el área para aflojar el adhesivo y, luego, separa lentamente la placa de la placa lógica con la herramienta de apertura.

    • Hay un cable plano delgado y frágil debajo de la placa. Al levantar la placa, ten mucho cuidado de no rasgar el cable.

    • Este cable puede adherirse a la placa y se rasgará muy fácilmente si no tienes cuidado. Trabaja lentamente y ten cuidado de no forzar el cable.

    I couldn't get a spudger in-between this space, so I went to the side where the three screws were on the left hand side and worked my way towards the bottom to separate the glue...

    Kevin Hulett -

    The power and volume wire on the logic board were covered with adhesive. Be careful! While trying to remove the steel mid plane I found that the adhesive will rip the ribbon!

    Chris Boenitz -

    Here is where you take it easy. Two things can be broken here.

    -Use time to carefully separate the bottom left part of the midplane. It sticks to the speaker which you tear the speaker leads if you are to hasty to lift it up. And remember the mid plane must not be bended up here since it needs to be 100% aligned so the new digitizer does not bulge here when in place.

    - The second picture. The black visible adhesive sticks to the volume cable. Use time to carefully separate the mid plane here so the cable is not ripped when you lift up the midplane. Pry a plastic tool like the picture or/and a spudger slowly in until you see/feel the midplane loosening. A broken volume cable is no fun.

    asle -

    as stated before, be very careful with the part at the speaker.

    the speaker actually sticks to the mid plane and i accidentally lifted it with the plane and separated one cable from the board!

    stan -

    That small ribbon cable ripped, be sure to really watch this - look at the second picture in this step and try to make sure you understand where it is on the board under it.

    kitlammers -

    This was difficult during both disassembly and reassembly. I used a thin guitar pick to separate the ribbon cable by the volume buttons from the steel midplane. Reassembly was tough because I didn't have the ipod dock connector seated correctly, AND more importantly, the speaker has a part that needs to be inserted into a black part on TOP of the dock connector-- it looks almost like a tiny air duct that has a foam gasket around it.

    Nik -

    I was able to replace the home button ribbon cable without having to fully remove the steel mid plane. It lifted up enough from the iPod's body that I was able to slip the ribbon in around the support it sticks to and hold it in place until the adhesive set.

    Much simpler, and didn't cause any problems -- the mid plane didn't deform, and snapped right back into place.

    Thanks for the guide.

    jon -

    Unfortunately there was so much glue on the tiny power/volume button ribbon cable that any attempt at removing the steel cover plate would eventually rip that cable at the 4 solder joints. A picture of that cable would help tearing down more securely.

    Is there a way to repair the torn ribbon cable or should I consider my iPod as dead now?

    Olivier Biot -

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    • Inclina ligeramente el plano medio de acero para sacarlo de la caja trasera.

    • Ten cuidado de no rasgar el trozo de cinta de cobre que conecta la cámara trasera al plano medio de acero.

    • Levanta el plano medio de acero de la carcasa trasera y retira el trozo de cinta de cobre pegado a la cámara trasera.

    I was able to stop at step 8 for the battery replacement.

    Once you remove the metal shield, desolder the 3 leads. Then use your heat gun to warm the battery. Use plastic pry tool between copper backing and battery and separate them (two adhesive strips on the sides of the battery). Once done with this, you can snake the battery ribbon cable from between the logic board and aluminum casing. Not as easily, but still very doable, snake the new battery ribbon back through the same slot; solder 3 points and reassemble. Much easier than removing the entire board. Good luck!

    Oh also, not mentioned in this guide - there is a plastic/silicon substance covering the 3 leads. Prior to desoldering remove this as much as possible with metal or plastic spudger (if metal, be sure not to bridge the connections).

    Syl2us -

    I stopped dismantling here as well and was able to replace the battery and everything works on the ipod. tricky parts for me were the copper adhesive on the rear camera and getting the data display cable reconnected

    I used plenty of heat first heating the ipod in an industrial oven to about 150 F and then as needed heating a heat gun.

    dhawke -

    what do you do if you break the copper connector to the camera?

    justinallison1 -

    The copper tape is mainly for heat dispersion. Without the copper tape it should work anyway but I would just lift up and move one part of the tape so that it is in contact with the other part when you put it together.

    asle -

    justinallison1, From what I understand, it is ok if that copper tape rips. In fact, I have seen people remove it completely. If it rips, just try and have the 2 pieces touching. (This is what I have researched and done myself with no negative results.

    Katie Kousoulos -

    after removed the steel mid plate, does anybody measure the battery voltage? I measured the battery voltage is only 0.3V. is it normal? I de-soldered the battery three points and measured the battery voltage 3.8V. So It looks like battery is OK. The logic board has problem. So I connected external power source 3.7V and maximum current 50mA to the battery B+ and B-. I found the power source dropped to only 1.65V and 50mA. Could I say logic board has problem?

    William -

    i break the copper connector to the camera then i do, does home button work?

    Arsh -

    The copper tape is really not a connector. It is a heat shield that spreads heat. Just try to attach it so it overlaps. It does not affect any connection.

    asle -

  9. nAbATLWWGyLrkYmi

    • Retira los siguientes tres tornillos cerca del borde superior de la placa lógica:

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 2.0mm

    • Dos tornillos Phillips de 2.3mm

    Can you use the same colour coding as with The above sizes? [HvL]

    Hugo van Leeuwen -

    These colors are too close together.. One red, two yellow.. Please.

    playpets106 -

    Thanks for the comment! I adjusted that step, should be much easier to see now.

    If you're ever having trouble seeing screw markers or other small details on a step, you can always view a larger version of the image with the "View Huge" link on the top left corner of the image.

    Andrew Optimus Goldheart -

    Can someone explain what the copper/ribbon is that the lower yellow marked screw goes through is for? Perhaps only heat dissipation? The ipod I have was given to me with much of the glass smashed and picked out, so some of this is just missing. Obviously I can't put it back...

    hutchwilco -

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    • Utiliza el borde de una herramienta de apertura de iPod para hacer palanca suavemente, no retires la cámara de la carcasa trasera.

    • No intentes retirar aún la cámara trasera.

    When you insert your tool to remove the rear camera make sure you have the tip all the way in. You can accidentally grab the middle of the camera assembly and it will come apart - and you'll have to replace the entire camera.

    Country Computer Service -

    hi! i accidentally cut the copper adhesive on rear camera, and now it doesn't work: i start the app "camera" and it opens but still close the lens... can i fix it ? if yes, how? thanks

    simone usala -

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    • Utiliza un herramienta de apertura para IPod para levantar ligeramente la placa lógica junto la batería, lo suficiente para poder poder agarrarla con la otra mano.

    • No curves excesivamente la placa, es muy delgada y frágil.

    • Ten cuidado de no levantar demasiado, el cable del control de volumen está aún conectado y se puede romper con mucha facilidad.

    • Mientas levantas suavemente la placa con una mano, utiliza la herramienta de apertura para levantar la tarjeta lógica que se encuentra cerca de la cinta de cobre en el borde superior.

    • La tarjeta saldrá correctamente cuando el último conector de ensamblaje de la pantalla haya superado el borde superior de la carcasa trasera.

    Use extreme caution when lifting the board. There are 2 ribbon cables that are extremely fragile, 1 connecting the rear facing camera and another connects the volume controller flex on the logic board.

    Evon Waters -

    Adding to Evon's comment:

    BEFORE YOU LIFT UP THAT BOARD...

    Use your plastic pry tool and make sure the flex cable, between the board and power button is not on top of the board. Take your time because even the slightest snag can tear that flex cable which leads to de-soldering/soldering the battery & flex cable.

    Once the board is lifted the first time I usually put a piece of Kapton tape over that area of the cable in case it has to be pulled up again.

    Country Computer Service -

    Can you explain this in a little more detail?

    I have done a dozen or more iPod screens without any issue. I have one here now that does nothing. Just a black screen. It won't even take a charge.

    Should I simply desolder those pads and then resolder? Sort of like unplugging and replugging to reset something?

    Thanks!

    Rene

    Rene Jeddore -

    Ciao dopo aver seguito il tuo aiuto per come cambiare la batteria io ho rimontato tutto ma la barra di sblocco non scorre più o i comandi in quella altezza del touch , tutto il resto funziona perfettamente.Dove potrei aver sbagliato?

    Potete aiutarmi grazie

    salvatore sagone -

    I placed a penny between the battery and board and it held it in place at just the right height.

    gcroley -

    I was so so so so careful when lifting the logic board past the flex cable on the power button. Before final assembly, plugged it all in to test and it booted OK. LCD and Digitizer worked. Went to power it off and found the power button wouldn't work. Sure enough, the tiny (<0.5mm) strip of copper in that power flex cable had torn right through. About to pitch this rotten, stinking thing across the back yard into the trees. I've spent 5 hours of my life fixing this today! Aaargh!!!!!

    Squonky -

    On this step i broke the entire board, so it now is a Apple Galaxy Fold, also the battery exploded .-.

    Ferx 7 -

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    • Usa el borde de una herramienta de apertura de iPod para comenzar a despegar el lazo de cinta de cobre envuelto alrededor del conector cerca del centro del borde superior de la placa lógica.

    • Continúa pelando la cinta hasta que esté libre de la placa lógica.

    • Usar un par de pinzas para pelar la cinta simplifica enormemente la tarea si las tienes.

    Do I need to put back the piece of copper foil on this step?

    Noah -

    No, not really. It has a function to spread and remove heat so your iPod could get hotter if it is not in place. If you have torn it. Just lift it up and put it together so it overlaps.

    asle -

  13. bXFuVyP1uwKdALEa

    • Usa el borde de una herramienta de apertura de iPod para sacar el conector de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Retira el conjunto del panel frontal del Touch.

    • Si estás instalando un nuevo ensamblaje de pantalla, querrás reemplazar el adhesivo viejo con adhesivo nuevo.

    • Retira la mayor cantidad de adhesivo viejo que puedas y luego aplic nuevas tiras adhesivas en los lugares apropiados.

    • También deberás transferir la placa de metal que se encuentra sobre la cámara frontal y las ventanas del sensor. Puedes hacerlo con una pistola de calor o un secador de pelo.

    • Después de volver a armar tu dispositivo, puede aparecer una pantalla blanca cuando lo enciendes por primera vez. Hay que hacer es un reset parcial y eso debería solucionarlo. Esto se logra manteniendo presionado el botón de encendido y el botón de inicio hasta que se reinicie, o dejando que la batería se agote completamente hasta que se apague.

    • Vuelve a verificar que el cable plano no esté atrapado entre la pantalla LCD y la placa de metal. Dóblalo sobre sí mismo para que no se pellizque. Si el cable plano está pellizcado, es posible que obtengas una pantalla blanca que no se puede reparar porque las pistas del cable plano se han dañado.

    just spent 10 minutes on trying to plug this one back....no luck so far....this design sucks big time. worst Touch ever...worse than iPhone 1st gen. Difficulty should be changed to Extremely Difficult IMHO

    grze -

    20 minutes and I finally did it!!!! pffff...2 more ipods to go :/

    grze -

    I had success plugging the cable back in after realizing that the circuit board can be pried up more than you think. I pulled the right corner up until I could just put the cable on. It might be more dangerous, but it made plugging it back in much easier.

    Timothy Rovolo -

    I would change this to a very difficult rating too, trying to get that cable back on is crazy.

    boo -

    Remember to move the metal latch at the top of the screen to the replacement screen. I had to use this to keep it in place or else the screen bulges at the top. Also there is no notice about adhesive but I bought new adhesive to keep the new screen attached.

    This iPod is one piece of fragile electronics. I agree everything about the 4th gen. iPod Touch is extremely difficult!

    asle -

    That was no fun! The iPhone 3G was a piece of cake, compared with this iPod. Especially when the front glass is cracked, it takes ages to get rid of all that glue. I hope I'll never have to do that again. Should be set to "difficult" at least.

    After the replacement, the screen was pure white! Luckily, a total reset could fix that. I really was afraid I broke one of the flex cables.

    mcbohdo -

    At this step is when you should test that the touch and LCD are working before you assemble back the parts. Be very careful when you plug in the cable for the LCD before you assemble the iPod. I have several times bent a pin on the contact on the motherboard. This could make the display white.

    If you see a bent pin on the LCD contact on the logic board you must carefully bend it back with a needle. If you break a pin you are lost and you need a new contact. And finding someone who is skilled to solder it!

    So do not use any force to get the LCD cable into the contact. Gently! Now if the screen still is white and you are sure the contact is not damaged, do like @mcbohdo and do a total reset of the iPod.

    asle -

    Hi, take a look at my post here to make sure you have moved over old parts from the broken screen assembly because these are not included when you buy a new part:

    '''What parts to move from the broken screen?

    asle -

    I use my fingers (and they are big) to put the connector back on. Make sure you feel the slight "snap" and you'll know it is connected. If it is not connected well, you'll wind up reassembling and finding that the screen is blacked out. :(

    Country Computer Service -

    what happens if the white screen never goes away? Connectors are good. Worked for a short amount of time before it went white.

    Nemowuner -

    Instead of using tweezers to get the pesky display connector on, I placed it under neath the logic board and pressed the logic board down on to the case with the display connector sitting on the bottom. Worked first time for me, no 10-20 mins wasted trying with two people or tweezers or anything.

    Robert Riley -

    I've done a few of these and I use the method Robert uses, takes no more than a hand full of seconds (note, I push on it with plastic spudger, wouldn't want to get the oil from my hand on the glue for the copper piece). I used to use the back end of a tweezers and put it under the connector and press the connector and logic board onto the tweezers, this worked well, but not as easy as just pushing it with the board.

    Steven K -

    Everything went quite well, though I'm having problems keeping the front and rear panel together after reassembly. I used 3M tape for it, which still isn't strong enough to keep both sides together. What should I use now?

    Also, the right upper corner doesn't respond on touches. Every other part of the touch screen works just fine, but not the upper right part. Any suggestions?

    Caia -

    It took me 3 hours to get the connector on the rear of the PCB, glued screen down and would not fit even though all screws were tight. Also managed to break the wifi! Oh well.

    Martin Roberts -

    * Prior to final installation of the screen assembly, verify that the WiFi antenna is still connected underneath the upper left corner of the logic board. (If it came undone your WiFi won't work!)

    * Don't forget to transfer the bracket at the top old screen to the top of the new screen!

    There's a round mark on the screen that lines up with the hole in the bracket.

    I was able to reuse the adhesive that was already on the bracket. After placing the bracket in place on the new screen, heat the bracket with a heat gun to re-flow the adhesive.

    * iFixit, would you please add a photo showing where the adhesive in your adhesive kit is supposed to go?

    * The suggestion above to test the iPod prior to final assembly of the screen is a wise one!

    gdesbrisay -

    I did it! it was quite fast (45 minutes)

    Thanks ifixit!

    loquetraoul -

    When lifting the logic board I also lift the front facing camera from the back of the iPod. It has a small amount of foam adhesive holding it down. I simply hook it from above, in the space where the screw holds it. Once the camera is free and still attached to the logic board you can lift the board much higher and fit fat fingers behind it to plug in the digitizer cable.

    Be careful though. If you get too happy with this new found space you may end up putting too much tension on the volume cable.

    I have used this technique on about 5 iPods now and it has been flawless for me.

    Rene Jeddore -

    Reconnecting the new screen is a pain in the !@#, it's better if u disconnect the camera too so you can lift it up a lot more. The logic board will bend pretty easily, enough to click the connector with your fingers. Just be sure you don't snap the orange cable on the side.

    When reassembling the ipod you should check if the speaker on the bottom is fitted correctly. if not, you will never be able to close the ipod correctly and the display will always come out.

    also check if the display is working before you close it again.

    jandelombaert -

    >>After you have reassembled your device, it is common to get a white screen when powering it up for the first time. All you have to do is a hard reset and that should fix it.

    After connecting everything and pressing power button, awaiting for a white screen, I was surprised that my iPod was even turned on and didn't noticed any surgery.

    Daniel Filatov -

    This is a excellent guide with very high quality images, good work guys! However, they make it look easy. Please be advised, if you have no technical knowledge about small electronics please do not try this yourself!

    As owner of iRefresh I can tell you that 20-30% of our customers buy the screen from either us or another online repair shop and they break something else while attempting to repair it themselves…usually the cable that controls the volume and sleep button.

    It's worth the extra money to have it installed professionally. This repair can go bad and cost you double or even triple what you paid for the screen.

    Cheers!

    tony viteritto -

    I have no experience at all ( female social worker age 57) but I did it using these brilliant instructions. God I'm so pleased with myself. it took me hours and hours though.

    Helen -

    Things I did to make this step easier:

    1. Don't push too hard when reconnecting the cable.

    2. Take your time.

    3. If a friend is with you it is easier.

    4. Flip it over, then try to plug in the cable.

    5. Watch a YouTube video, that might help you. It helped me.

    Joe Bobbins -

    Also, if your device won't turn on, press the home+sleep/wake button at the same time for about 20 seconds.

    Joe Bobbins -

    I removed the copper from digitizer is it important

    aiman alobahi -

    it's a very tedious proccess to do, and requires lots of patience, as this is one of the hardest parts, and to add, if you have any dents on the casing, you need to deal with these first

    James -

    I CANNOT get the bloody digitizer cable back in! This is by far the most annoying design feature apple Could have dreamt up. 45 minutes trying, still not joy. After that, took the entire logic board out of the ipod, connected digitizer, reassembled, only to discover that it had fallen out in reassembly. :(

    Michael -

    everything about this entire manual is great but IT TOOK ME 15 MINUTES TO GET THE DIGITIZER BACK IN. otherwise entire repair easy

    motty altman -

    The adhesive is not keeping the front panel down… what do I do?!?! This is annoying

    Monique Bueno -

Conclusión

Para re ensamblar su dispositivo, siga estas instrucciones en orden inverso

Autor

Walter Galan

685928 Reputación

83 comentarios

When installing the new panel, it can be quite hard to get the connector onto the board with only one set of hands. You will need to use a second person to hold the iPod and the new front panel in such a way that the connector lines up, then use your tweezers to press the new connector in place. It's pretty much impossible to do with only one person...

Kevin Hulett -

will the glass be as it was for before ones

like i heard that the glass will come out after some days

or it will not fix very easily

can u guide me please

shripadh -

This one works great . http://stores.ebay.com/Electronic-Florid...

eleflorida -

ah ha, yes, a bit of practice is needed for sure on this, I have done quite a few now and that is by far the most frustrating part.

Biggest fear here is ripping the volume controller flex on the logic board, seen with the 4 pads top left of photo, i have had two rip on me and it's a real nuisance to change out the volume control flex. You can ignore step 10 really as you can still perform the operation without detaching the camera.

Dave -

Dave - Where did you get a replacement volume controller flex? I can't seem to find much of anything on the subject.

Rosalind -

Excellent. i bought from http://www.papadigitals.com/good-quality.... cheap price. now i can install it by myself because of this guider.

brent -

Okay I just did it, here's my tips for REASSEMBLY...since nobody shows you on YouTube.

1. Remove all traces of the old adhesive. Use Goo-Gone and a Q-Tip or similar. This will take awhile, I assume they cure the adhesive at the factory because my replacement doesn't stick quite as well. Use a iPod opening tool to scrape away old adhesive.

2. Looking down at the unit in portrait orientation, notice the speaker unit on the left of the Home button. That should get some new adhesive, use some left over from the replacement adhesive.

3. The LCD display is EXTREMELY fragile. One touch, one scrape, attempt to pry or similar and the LCD is toast. I will need to replace the one I just put in because I screwed up.

4. Take note of which screws go where. Maybe put them on a piece of paper with a logical orientation to which goes where.

5. Putting the digitizer cable back in is a notable achievement. I used a small pair of pliers and about 20 minutes by myself to get it back in.

Continued...

firenmiss -

Part 2:

6. Make sure to retransfer the copper tape that secures the digitizer cable and note the proper orientation.

7. Use an iPod opening tool (you'll need at least 3: they wear out quickly. Better bet: 4 of them.) as a prop to hold the logic board open while you fiddle with the front camera cable (hard to reassemble), rear camera cable (same difficulty) and digitizer cable (the worst).

8. To reapply the adhesive, note that the perimeter of the replacement adhesive has a cut out for the adhesive. The ultra-thin perimeter length is what you want. Separate the inner segment from the outer, leaving the wax paper attached to the skinny stuff. Try to apply the adhesive before you reassemble the display unit. Carefully apply it around the black plastic bezel that runs along the stainless steel base. Use an iPod opening tool to press the adhesive in place, and when you're satisfied, remove the wax paper.

8. The LCD => CANNOT <= be removed from the digitizer without permanent and immediate damage. Period.

firenmiss -

Part 3:

10. Do not buy a replacement LCD or digitizer separate. Buy the complete assembly (I got mine off Amazon) and you'll have to transfer the Home button (Push down the button, and GENTLY use a very tiny blade screwdriver to separate the rubberish material from the old display) and the metal piece that is on the old display near the clear opening for the front-facing camera.

11. Make sure to properly fold the digitizer connector into the cavity just left of the forward camera as one of the very last steps. Triple check to make sure the LCD connector is properly connected before you "close the door".

11. Be careful pressing on the perimeter of the display when you see "high spots" near the edge of the bezel. Don't do like what I did and put it in a rag, between two 2x3" pieces of wood and GENTLY put pressure on it in a vise. It looked good afterwards on the outside but the LCD got killed. (I thought I said the LCD was fragile before.)

12. Take your time and do it right. Take multiple breaks.

firenmiss -

Part 4:

13. I can't count my digits correctly in my lists. Blame my memory. (Must old volatile SIMMs from a Macintosh SE/30. Oh wait I have one of those and it works. Anybody want a 256KB SIMM?)

14. I took probably 4 hours to do it on my first time (this time). Be patient.

15. Watch yourself when you pry up the metal cover plate. You can toast the volume cable very quickly. Pry it up carefully with an iPod opening tool from the LEFT side because the RIGHT side has two metal tabs that retain it under the black plastic bezel.

16. You don't need to pry the rear facing camera in step 10. Also avoid removing the WiFi cable that glues onto the white block (PowerBook Weight Saving Device?).

17. Step 9: You don't need to remove the screw for the front facing camera and the screw near the white block. Only the one near the LCD connector.

18. That's all for now.

firenmiss -

Oh yeah, there's a couple more:

The adhesive on the flanks of the screen is minimal. You will mostly likely never get it to sit flush along the entire length like the factory.

I used a small pair of needlenose pliers to get the digitizer cable back in.

If you get a white screen upon reassembly, conduct a hard reset: Hold down the Power and Home buttons until the screen goes black and the Apple logo shows up. (This can happen if the device was inadvertently turned on during the disassembly/reassembly process. Avoid it.)

firenmiss -

Glass smashed in the corner my kid dropped it, case looked fine after cleaning up broken glass on adheasive. When reasembling the new screen almost overlapped same corner ,managed to push out case to original shape with plastic tool. All fits and works fine, if you heat the glass well at the start and slowly pry up the screen most of the glue stays on the case, when new screen bedded correct reheat the unit and gently squeeze all the way round until flush with plastic bezel repeat if required. Also when lifting circuit board to access plug if you dont have a second pair of hands place a small wedge under the board opposite volume control this allows you to hold the board down and work the new plug into place. Never done anything like this before start too finish took three hours.

Dave Doull -

1. Take care removing the metal part near the top of the glass, heat it well so that the adhesive is still good as the adhesive (tape) kit doesn't have a piece for that location (you could cut a piece from the left over rectangle, however, it may be to thick?).

2. I used the adhesive from ifixit, precut. However, the upper left hand corner is loose (I noticed on install that it wasn't very sticky in this location as the tape it was lifting by itself). Instead of starting over with new adhesive I just bought a hard case (which is probably a good idea anyway) and clicked it together, solved.

3. If you get a black screen with multiple beeps upon restart (the ipod I replaced the screen on had a dead battery and needed to be plugged in). Just do a hard reset.

4. I suggest powering on before peeling the tape on the back side of the adhesive. Just to be sure you have the LCD connected (I had to give it a good push to get it to click into place).

Steven K -

Notice the orange cable in the upper left of step 6 (click huge image). After you located that image notice the lack of adhesive on that cable. The adhesive is on the ridge behind it and on the grey piece next to it. I believe this is why the upper left corner doesn't stick well as noted in my above comment. The orange cable isn't stuck down either. On the next screen replacement I do, I will be cutting the adhesive to not be over top the cable, maybe the mold should be changed? Or maybe this isn't the issue at all?

Steven K -

Loose Upper left corner issue solved. OK, I couldn't help but take it apart again. This time with a heat gun and not a blow drier. Wow, what a difference, came apart easy. I figured out that it is the long ribon cable that connects under the main board (digitizer cable?). Anyway, this needs to be folded in three or four places, mine was only folded once when I took it apart and ended up between the LCD and the metal plate above the battery, folded it and it went back together perfectly. Hope that helps.

Steven K -

Step 12. I find it easier to only peel back enough of the copper tape to detach the ribbon cable. Attach the copper tape and sponge mesh to the new cable before reattaching to the board. The tape should be folded up like a "U" around the connector when you slide the connector under the board, it also makes it easier to align the connector.

irepoder -

Anyone else had problems with the Home button becoming unresponsive? Everything else works perfectly, but the button rarely works anymore. Can this be corrected by opening and repairing something, or am I just better off buying a new device?

Steven Savacool -

I had the same problem. How did you fix it?

luciacossio -

Changed the unit first time around. The touch screen did not work. appears to be connected properly. Thought it might be the digitizer was bad. Got another one and decided to try it before full assembly and it still does not work! It is plugged fully into the logic board but does not see any input. Is it valid to test before attaching the plate and sealing the glass? How fully assembled does it have to be before I can test the touch screen?

Thanks

ric5141 -

Make sure to plug in the LCD too. :-D

Those Phone Guys -

What is the fix for the issue with reattaching the screen so it sits flush like the stock digitizer did? Constant issue with upper left corner popping up and not staying attached. Need a real fix other than "putting a case on".

Those Phone Guys -

Make sure the digitizer cable is folded in and doe not prevent the screen from sitting down. Also do not move the metal bracket near the camera to the new screen. Check for old broken glass parts along the edges. Also check that the speaker at the bottom has not moved up. It must go to the bottom of the case and not bulge up.

asle -

This tutorial is great! Simple to follow and understand. How ever, I think they left out a few important factors that can make this job a lot easier. First off, don't cheap out with your heat gun. USE IT! I had trouble carefully removing the cover from the speaker, So I use the heat gun and quickly put my pry tool in between, It easily came apart without damaging anything. You read a bunch of tutorials that say this is the hardest part, be extremely carefully, you will damage the speaker, blah blah blah! If you use a heat gun, its as easy as unwrapping your juicy fruit bubble gum! Same with the copper foil, most tutorials say (DON'T RIP IT! YOU NEED TO REUSE IT!) Great advice.... Why couldn't you just tell me to use my heat gun so the copper foil slides right off? If you have a variety of different color permanent markers, use them to color code your screws. That is what I did, than I tossed them in 3 separate cups, and labeled them 1, 2, and 3. First cup had the first set of screws this tutorial told me to remove, second cup had the second set of screws and so on. I colored the head of the screw, than put a dot around the area the screw fits in. Makes it a lot easy! Especially if you can find the same colors this tutorial used to circle the different screws. And I agree with every one else when they say get a second pair of hands. Really does make it easier on you and less strain on the LCD. I was going soooooooo good! I had it! I almost had it! But when I was putting it back together, I applied to much pressure on the screen (cause it wasn't fitting flush) and CRACK!*! the top part shattered. AGH! I powered on the ipod, and EVERYTHING WORKED! I ALMOST HAD IT! @!&&. I just ordered another one. At least I'm more comfortable taking it apart this time, and I know not to apply pressure to the screen (Common sense DUH), just let it fall in flush, heat the glue around it, and it should be fine. I just hope those copper foils can handle a second round. But if your good with instructions and your hands, this job is easy, not difficult like the tutorial and everyone else on this planet says.

Zayd -

Good suggestions! Thanks! For keeping track of screws I tape the screws down on my work surface close to the location where they came from (if I'm working on a laptop, I just tape the screws to the case or shield close to where the screws go). That way there's no spilling the screws, no need to refer to the drawing to see which screw goes where, and no chance for confusion. I hope that's helpful!

gdesbrisay -

Another suggestion.

I copied the pictures of step 5 and step 9 to a word document and printed it.

I place the screws on the coloured circles where they can from.

Don't blow them away whith your heatgun :-)

Rico -

I went through all the steps and had everything put back together, then when I was testing it before sealing it up, I found that the power/sleep button wouldn't work, while the digitizer, LCD and home buttons were fine. Checked the ribbon cable for the sleep/power button and I don't see any signs of damage. Any ideas what's going on here?

MikeEl -

I had that problem, the Volume, Power button flex cable got a small tear in it somewhere, I couldn't find tears in the copper traces, but there was. I had to change the flex cable, and it's the hardest job I ever did. Any iPhone job is a piece of cake compared to this!

Follow the directions for replacing this Sleep/Power button flex cable in the ifixit guide. It requires taking just about everything apart and most of it's glued on! The battery was the hardest part, don't worry, it'll deform, but you can flatten it back out, just don't puncture it! Also, you have to solder the flex cable onto four solder pads on the logic board. If you watch a couple of videos of how to solder and USE FLUX, you'll be surprised how well solder flows exactly they way you want.

Good luck with it, don't bend the board too much, but it's still tougher than it looks. After I replaced this cable, I thought for sure after the abuse and soldering and bending, it was done for. Seeing sleep button WORK was glorious sight to see!

gatortpk -

Great, thanks to the good parts, tools,& directions. It took me one hour to read over the instructions &, do the work. It was fun. I would not have attempted this project with-out the support of this site. Thank-you much.

ecalm -

OK, so I finished mine and everything is fine EXCEPT for a very thin grey strip going down the left-hand side of the screen. Any ideas?

EJ Cartagena -

thank you iFixit---ive done 3GS screens and batteries and backs on a 4, but this was the scariest apple repair ive done. i was looking at the old (apple) combo piece and this one i got from amazon, and the white thing on the back of it is definitely more secure on the apple product. so im guessing definitely this is not OEM :) is there a place for "better" replacement parts? Ra

ralph -

i was trying to peep inside my ipod but got the lcd connector out of its socket. I panicked and used a swiss army knife to pry open the screen. After several attempts I was able to connect the connector. When I turn on the screen it is showing a white screen with weird grey/black lines, a black spot with red/purple/yellow boundaries.

Is the lcd damaged?

yash jain -

Just reboot, the white screen is normal the first time the iPod is turned on. Don't know about the lines and colored spot though!

gdesbrisay -

Ran through the entire process on my son's 4th Gen iPod, and everything was great (comments were very helpful). But: I've got no audio. None - zilch - nada. The speaker wires did not rip, the volume button's flex cable did not tear... in fact, they work to raise and lower the (on-screen image of the) volume. But no sound. The impact that brought the iPod to Dad's operating room was near the headphone jack - but the sound worked even with the smashed screen. Now? Clean, crack-free screen but no sound. Any clues?

Jim McAward -

Is sound coming out when you hook up earphones? If so, and there's no sound from the speakers, then I'd suggest that you take another close look at the speaker wires. I hope that helps!

gdesbrisay -

The digitizer cable on my replacement screen was waaay too long, could not put the unit back together without performing cable origami, and of course something got nicked or severed and the screen was inoperative.

Also, the adhesive strips I ordered with this were useless could not get the backing off even with the aid of an xacto knife.

All told, very dissatisfied with this part.

The Guide is good, but the parts were not at all satisfactory.

jsulliv8 -

OK, I followed the steps and everything went fine. However, when I attached the new digitizer and tested it out, before closing the ipod, I get a black screen. I tried pushing the power button and all I get is a slight flicker on the screen and then it stays black. I thought that maybe the iPod wasn't charged so I plugged it in to my PC (it sees it fine) and I heard the iPod beep, so I know it works. After letting it charge for a while, I tried to test the screen again and got the same results. I returned the LCD/Digitizer, thinking it might be defective and got a new one. Unfortunately the new behaves the same way. Any ideas?????

Tom -

Did you try a hard reset? Hold power and home button until it restarts. Should fix the problem.

kc10kevin -

I had this happen and all I had to do was "short" out the positive terminal of the batter as described in this thread - iPod won't power on after screen replacement, even when plugged in

Noah Ralston -

For a perfect fit of your new display assembly, remove ALL old adhesive down to the hard plastic beneath. Best technique was to apply a little Goo-Gone and apply heat, then use spudger to gradually nudge away the adhesive. Make sure to clean off all traces of Goo-Gone oil so that new adhesive will stick properly.

phamx011 -

replaced everything now the down volume doesn't work

Rose -

When putting the new adhesive on, cut it into several pieces and transfer it with the brown paper on top. Get the smaller pieces into place one at a time. Trying to do that whole piece at once just looked like a nightmare!

Overall, good guide, must be very patient!

Katelyn Barkman -

Hello. I've gotten all the steps done, everything is attached. However when I fold the LDC screen forward to attach it, the screen goes white and the ios won't display. Yet when I fold the screen back to a perpendicular position the ios screen displays. Then when I fold it forward again it turns slowly white.

I know the cables are seated correctly it only happens when it folds forward.

bsischo -

I completed this, it was very tricky, but in the last step I found it was so much easier to get the front camera to come loose from the adhesive holding it to the rear case. Doing this gave me enough room to re-attach the Front panel cable. and putting it back together was simple, until you get to the other front panel cable, it was slightly tricky. But it is simple I found if you attach it while it is fully open, but you have the panel beneath the case slightly, and you carefully fold it shut, as you have it close together you then can slide the screen up locking the metal clips under the top cover. and carefully closing it onto the adhesive.

Matt -

Great Guide! Have dreaded repairing a 4th Gen screen since the guide first came out! Bit the bullet and thought I'd give it a go, got me a damaged iPod online and a budget replacement screen from eBay. The repair went Flawlessly! Got it done in around 1 Hour 30 Mins. Only thing I'd recommend is to re-heat the Mid-Frame before removing and watching that Volume Flex!

Mark Struthers -

I have the problem with pressure points on my device. I follow this guide to point on everything. I place adesive around the sides aswell with stopping at points where the LCD has notches. When I seat the screen and let it adhere I have a problem where there are pressure points at the top of the screen and I guess all around the edges of the LCD. I make sure I take can air to blow out any debris and still does it. I removed all adhesive so there can't be any high spots. If anyone can help me with this problem it would be AMAZING!

Thanks!

Brandon -

So you have checked there are no glass pieces left on the frame. The problem getting the screen flush in the frame is mostly 2 things. 1 - the digitizer ribbon cable is not folded correctly under the top. 2 - the speaker is raised and need to be pushed down. I would also check that if you moved the metal part around the camera from the old screen, this could be bent. I usually leave that piece behind even if I agree that the top right corner then is a bit vulnerable to pressure. I have had no issues with that.

asle -

@asle I have made sure there are no glass pieces and I also make sure I got the ribbon cable bent properly :D but I also left behind the metal bracket at the top for the camera and sensor. It still has this issue where I get white pressure points from pushing hard down on the screen. I don't know if it does this because it isn't an OEM part I'm using or if I'm still doing something wrong :/

Brandon -

Pressing hard down on any screen will give pressure points but this sounds like a bad part. If it seems flush to the frame it should not be easy to get the white pressure points. I would suggest replacing the screen/glass.

asle -

Nice guide with excellent pictures and clear instructions! Following faithfully I had a repaired and working pod in about 40 min. Not easy but definitely doable. I'm looking at doing my gf's pad now :) Thank you so much!

bazilmonk -

Worked like a charm. Saw another video where the metal bracket was retained for the new screen. Only issue for me was that one of the metal plate screws near the home button was stripped so could not remove it. Could still tilt it up and managed the repair. Didn't have any super glue which is a shame as it is not totally flush. I always have a case so a new gel one should help hold it firmly.

Gordon Stewart -

Does changing the touch panel of the ipod touch 4th gen can make your rear camera dis-function? Just got my ipod touch for repair from our local icenter and my rear camera doesn't work.

jehn -

After replacing the panel, the home button is not working! If I press the switch directly it works fine, but not with the button.

It doesn't seem to have something to do with the repair, but before it, it was working perfectly!

Any advice?

I am afraid of sticking the new panel for good!

Thanks!

luciacossio -

Examine the switch below the home button. There should be a tiny cylinder of material in the center of it. Look at the image in step 5. There are other things which can go wrong with the home button, but this was my problem.

ciradrak -

When taking the digitizer cable off be very careful make sure you have no resistance whats so ever because the digi cable is very fragile best thing to take it off with is a flat tool and to put it on and in place is a set of tweezers

Jonathan -

After reassembly all I'm getting is the white screen .. Tried hard reset about 5x already, also tried letting the battery drain completely then plugging into power. Still just powers back onto white screen tho :( Any other suggestions on how to fix this, or will I need to buy another screen replacement and start all over again?..⍨

Caroline Main -

Had the same problem, after testing before assembly it worked, then the white screen when put together. The problem was the itty bitty digitizer thingie connector was not seated properly, it can be off a tooth or two or just is being a pill. Getting that connector right was harder than the ribbon cable .

plsctierney -

Watch for variants at Step 6 and 8. The iPod I'm working on has the copper tape on the rear-facing camera wrapped around the side of the camera. A tab on the steel shield makes contact with the tape, but the tape is not stuck to the shield. In this case, do not remove the copper tape, just leave it alone. I still had to lift the camera along with the logic board to get at the digitizer cable.

Paul Bade -

I couldn't do it. I've repaired two iPhones 3gs rear case and battery replacement and those tasks were a breeze compared to this iPod screen repair. Those copper covers, adhesive allover and display fragility make it almost imposible. It doesn't worth the while the investment in spare parts, you better buy a new one or a used one.

Modima65 -

I finished the iPod Touch Gen 4 Display Assembly. Now when I plug the iPod into a PC I get the "USB device not recognized" problem. Also the battery won't charge from this cable used to connect to USB. I did "erase all content and reset" the iPod. Still won't charge. Has anybody seen this problem caused by this repair? I can't figure out what is the problem.

chrisdonalswork -

Now I'm able to plug into the PC and backup to computer at iTunes. Also, I've been using VoiceOver to check battery percentage. VoiceOver audio is playing fast (like helium voice). I don't know why. Could the logic board have been damaged from the physical damage to the display? I think I did good at the display replacement. The trickiest part was connecting the display data cable.

chrisdonalswork -

I'm happy. It's working good enough; especially considering how badly the display was damaged.

chrisdonalswork -

Attempted to edit from Difficult to Very Difficult. It was for me; Apple sure as !&&* doesn't make parts easy to swap.

anonymous 5451 -

This was definitely hard to do. I don't have a lot of experience with fixing devices like ipods and phones, but I do have mechanical experience with automobiles, and am well familiar with tools and how things of that nature look. If you don't have any type of mechanical experience, pay someone to do it! There are too many things that can easily ruin this device, and you'll end up spending more money than you should.

For the rest of us, everything went well (kinda) and everything works fine. The only problem I had was having the screen sit nice and flush with the chassis. I knew it wasn't going to be like it was factory new, but I do believe that mine could be closer to factory new than how it stands now. But, overall I'm satisfied with this tutorial and my ipod works as desired.

jselle05 -

hey! if I do a replacement of the battery from the IPOD, do I need to replace the LCD screen as well? just wondering about that?

technicianjedi -

Nope. Just need new adhesive.

Scott Dingle -

Thanks for this guide. Kid dropped her iPod and broke the screen. I've never tried one of these before but the guide looked pretty straightforward so I had a go. I bought the complete display assembly and tools and as I don't have a heat gun I used a hair dryer. I managed to fit the new display first go and it sits nice and flush and works perfectly. The trickiest part was replacing the digitiser back into its slot but I took a bit of time and used tweezers which definitely helped.

Kid is suitably impressed which is some feat considering I'm just a stay at home forty year old mom and she's fifteen. Ha, I still have it!!!

MALaw -

One other thing, I didn't need new adhesive. I reused the old one by being very careful not to distort it as I took the iPod apart and then when sticking the screen back on by reheating the adhesive with the hair dryer on cool setting which reactivated it. If I had to replace the screen again I would probably replace the adhesive then as I doubt it would stick well a third time.

MALaw -

help me. sostituito il display si vede solo a metà con touch funzionante. quale è il problema?

gaiamus -

I did this, it comes on, but the touch part of the "touch" screen does not work.. any thoughts?

gavinduerson -

It usually is the foam is missing from the digitizer cable (step 13). Important to move that over from the old digitizer since it helps to assure a good connection, presses and holds the connector in place. I would check that again.

asle -

how do I connect the LCD strip back to the board?

Tristan denton -

What do you mean by "LCD strip"? Connector?

asle -

Try doing it with one hand! I'm paralyzed on my left side from a stroke and dropped mine. It would have been repairable if I had not tried to do it myself. I miss my ipod. it was a great friend during therapy. It was a gift and a new one is too much for my budget.

davidwp -

I bought this one on eBay, it was easy to install because it comes with tool and the adhesive tape to close it back. http://stores.ebay.com/Electronic-Florid...

eleflorida -

I'm stuck on step 13.

I'm afraid if I use too much force I'm gonna break the board. Doing a repair for a friend.

Any advice?

raouldukeesq -

I don't know if this will be answered or not, but I was repairing my old iPod, and I didn't know that the copper foil was important so I kinda tore it up taking it off. I have the new screen in but the digitizer won't work. Was that copper foil important?

Oh Sheets -

Great guide, everything worked fine except one problem: THE HOME BUTTON WON'T WORK. It's probably my doing and not the guide, but for now I'm stuck with assistivetouch. The button won't click when it's in but without the button the switch does work and makes a satisfying noise. Anyone know how to fix?

agentk1 -

Réparation terminée, tout marche à merveille. Merci aux rédacteurs pour ce super tuto !

wakazai -

I found when replacing the new screen and after following all the steps that you need to watch out the thin ribbon cable thats attached the underside of the board and the screen needs to be folded back when placing the screen back on. I had issues when i put the screen back on that it wasn’t sitting flush as it should. The screen wasn’t flush and had a bit of rocking near the rear facing camera. The ribbon cable was riding under the screen.

Once it got folded back, it sits flush now and can start using the iPod. Good luck and take your time.

johnrcosta -

I followed this repair guide as usual and it work at first. But it had white screen and I tried to close it properly and now it won’t turn on at all :(

Jason -

Getting a white screen after replacing the panel is common, and not a problem. Just soft reset your iPod by holding the power and home button, then once the apple logo shows up depress the power button and continue to hold the home button. Your device should then show on the display correctly. However if you do reset it, anything in its storage will be erased. If this does not work it could be a faulty panel.

StagiestChalk -

Personally I botched it, but hey, the guide was great!

StagiestChalk -

I tried this guide but the Ipod won't come on. I appreciate any suggestions.

Roi -