Reemplazo de tapa trasera del Nexus 6P

Escrito Por: Dominik Schnabelrauch
  • Comentarios: 30
Reemplazo de tapa trasera del Nexus 6P

Dificultad

Difícil

Pasos

6

Tiempo Requerido

30 - 45 minutos

Introducción

Usa esta guía para reemplazar la tapa trasera en tu Nexus 6P. Al volver a ensamblar, aplica adhesivo nuevo donde sea necesario.

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    • Es posible sacar la tapa trasera con un iOpener como se ve en esta guía, pero es un procedimiento largo y difícil. Recomendamos una pistola de calor o algo similar. El adhesivo en el Nexus 6P es extremadamente pegajoso y especialmente la tapa de plástico y de vidrio en la parte trasera se rompe o doble durante casi toda la reparación.

    • Usa una herramienta de expulsión de tarjeta SIM y remueve la bandeja de la tarjeta SIM.

    • Usa un iOpener para aflojar el adhesivo por debajo de la tapa de plástico trasera en la parte inferior del teléfono.

    For the heat gun users — any approximate temperature, and distance from phone, to not damage it?

    Kamal -

    Hi Kamal,

    my advice is the be very, very gentle with a heat gun. Especially the small plastic cover at the bottom end deforms within seconds. Try the lowest heat you can, with a good distance to the cover. Then try to remove the cover. If it doesn’t go off, lower the distance of the heat gun to the phone and try again and so on. I recommend to rather pry a little bit more than to use to much heat. If the cover deforms you’ll need a new one.

    Dominik Schnabelrauch -

    Is their a particular time i should have my heat gun on it like for ex: 10 secs

    PlayStation Studios -

    Hi,

    there’s no particular time but I advise you to go only for a couple of seconds and then try to remove the plastic cover. If you can’t manage to remove it, repeat the heat gun process and so on. Under strong heat the plastic cover deforms very fast and is not usable anymore.

    Dominik Schnabelrauch -

    Hi,

    I used a hair dryer (exhaust air about 60°C) instead of a heat gun: this temperature was sufficient to soften the glue. The plastic and glass cover could be removed without damage.

    Daniel Demuth -

    The Ifixit SIM removal tool is a bit rough for the 6P SIM eject opening I suggest a small paper clip and its easier for aged fingers to use.

    Terry Ess -

    The IOpener may need to be applied more than once in cold weather. Even for a first time repairer it is possible to remove the small lower rear cover without damage.

    Terry Ess -

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    • El cuchillo es muy filoso. Ten cuidado de no cortarte o cortar el teléfono.

    • Inserta un cuchillo entre el teléfono y la tapa de plástico. Levanta la tapa de plástico hasta que puedas insertar una púa de apertura.

    • Desliza la púa de apertura por debajo de la tapa de plástico para cortar el adhesivo.

    How I did it was to heat the plastic to around 65C (150F) with a hair dryer, then managed to get one of my metal prying tools in and under the edge to pull it up.

    Michael Lerro -

    Request to give some specification/link to the knife used in this process. I dont want to buy a knife too thick for the job. Thanks in advance.

    onkararadhye -

    Hi onkararadhye,

    the knife used in this process was from the Technician's Razor Set in our shop.

    Dominik Schnabelrauch -

    The Ifixit knife has a curved sharp edge. I used this edge in the middle of the outer long side of the lower cover and pushed it straight down. The natural curve in the now softened plastic allowed it to buckle/bend a little further. I then slowly rolled the top edge of the knife out and away from the phone. There was then sufficient gap to insert a Pick. Heat it again with the IOpener and then slide the Pick further in and along from end to end.

    Terry Ess -

    The bottom edge of the panel is the easiest place to pry the knife into. I used the heat pad first and then hair dryer. There is a solid backing under the panel as well so no worries on getting the knife in. Edge of knife instead of tip will prevent you from mangling the panel. Get the panel lifted up enough to pry a pick in between the bottom of knife and phone case and continue trying to get 2-3 picks in along the bottom. Work slowly, none of these steps will go quickly.

    JimmyJames -

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    • Usa un iOpener para aflojar el adhesivo por debajo de la tapa de vidrio en la parte superior del teléfono.

    • Inserta un cuchillo entre el teléfono y la tapa de vidrio. Levanta la tapa de vidrio hasta que puedas insertar una púa de apertura.

    Used a fan on high heat. Worked great.

    Tilen Travnik -

    A heating pad works well for these steps

    Russell Sloan -

    This has to be the hardest part. I really did not want to damage the glass. My phone has had a rough life and there is some minor damage despite having a double layer cover. I decided to prise the glass off from the end opposite from the camera after many unsuccessful attempts from near the middle. With the knife I was able to scrape the metal edge near the end of the glass cover - keep the blade facing out. With the metal out of the way the knife tip was able to get under the glass followed by a Pick. I heated it all up again with the IOpener heat tube. Using reflected light keep an eye on the bend in the glass. If you can see a bend then slow down and let the glue separate. The reward for patience is unbroken glass.

    Terry Ess -

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    • El vidrio se puede romper. Usa gafas y guantes de protección.

    • Desliza la púa de apertura por debajo de la tapa de vidrio y úsala para cortar el adhesivo.

    • Levanta la tapa de vidrio.

    I had a really hard time getting under the glass using the iOpener. I just don’t think it got hot enough to really loosen up the adhesive. So, I got my wife’s hair dryer and used that. I put it on the highest heat and held it to the glass for a couple minutes. That loosened it up pretty well and I was able to get enough space to put in a prying pick. Once I got one of those in it was pretty easy.

    Davin Studer -

    The way I did this bit was to heat the glass up to around 70C (160F) with a hair dryer, then use a razor blade to get in under the glass, then used a playing card and pushed that along underneath the glass to seperate the glass from the body. I started with my razor blade at the curved edge of the glass on the side of the phone, rather than at the straight edge at the top as they show here, because it was a bit easier for me.

    Nothing else in my toolkit had a fine enough edge to get in under that glass except for a razor blade. The gap is very small.

    Michael Lerro -

    The good news is that my phone works fine. And it now has some battle scars that make it look like I repaired it. Let’s be honest: bragging rights are half the reason we tried this instead of buying a new phone anyway. My camera and flash still work, though the latter needed its lens glued separately.

    The bad news is that I broke my glass. I started from the corner away from the camera, and about halfway along the width of the phone, the glass utterly shattered. It stayed together, so its coating worked. I used some scotch tape to further control the shards, and i slid a small flathead along under the top and bottom edges to scrape the glue. I think that would have been my technique in the first place if i had x-ray vision. I also would have started camera-side.

    I think my mistake was not maintaining heat while prying. The glass started hot, but when it broke it was barely warm to the touch. I think If I had kept it hot, it would have been more flexible.

    Best of luck, everybody.

    Seth Battin -

    Go slow and it’ll work out. I used hair dryer in combination with the heat pad. Glass panel has some flex but not a lot. I used hair dryer at first to gently warm the glass and prevent heat pad from possibly shocking glass (may not be necessary but added 1-2 minutes). There will be some location around the panel to use the knife as a pry bar against the case/glass. Placing the phone face down on a silicone baking mat will provide a heat proof non-slip surface to keep your 2 hands on the phone. Only places you should be careful is at the camera and the flash. Flash area has a plastic add on the back of the glass that recesses down into the phone and prevents knife or picks from sliding in there. It’ll come up, just takes a while. Probably 20 mins for just this step.

    JimmyJames -

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    • Usa pinzas para remover las pegatinas de indicador de líquido.

    • Remueve los seis tornillos Phillips #00.

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    • Inserta una cuchilla entre la tapa trasera de metal y el vidrio frontal para crear un espacio. Insertar una púa de apertura en el espacio y deslízala hacia la esquina superior derecha.

    • El cuchilla es muy filoso. Ten cuidado de no cortarte o cortar el teléfono.

    • Inserta una segunda púa de apertura y deslízala hacia la esquina superior izquierda.

    • Desliza las púas de aperturas a lo largo de los bordes para separar los clips de plástico que sujetan la tapa trasera y el marco medio.

    • Remueve la tapa trasera.

    There is a black plastic band around the front glass. So stick the razor between the metal back and outside of the black plastic that is around the front glass. If you look closely at the first picture you can see the black plastic strip outside of the front glass. If you stick it between the black plastic and screen you could leave the mid frame in the metal case and only lift up the the glass and screen.

    igolten -

    Definitely try to get the knife as close as possible to the aluminum body. It will spare you damage to the plastic band… wish I would have read the comment before trying this myself… ah… and don’t get tricked by a possible space between the display and the plastic band it looks tempting to put the knife in there however that will possibly damage the plastic band. That’s where I thought I could get in between the display and the body and did damage my plastic seal. Btw, I got my device open from the left side away from the power and volume buttons.

    Marcel Duda -

    I couldn’t even find room for the knife, ended up using a suction cup to lift the bottom left corner enough to get a plastic shim in. Worked around from there. Damaged a good deal of the plastic around the edge trying to get the knife in—would recommend just using a suction cup.

    Alexander Haase -

    Blow dry the viser and stick an exacto knife under it. Gently pry. The bottom plastic is the same process, it is more difficult.

    Easyway to push the unibody/screen apart is pushing hard on the fingerprint reader. No bending/scraping. Going between the screen and body with a pick or blade is stupid.

    If you DONT put the 5 screws back in, it makes future servicing easy. The device has dovetail joints that will snap into place and still hold everything together. The phone is easy to bend/shatter anyways. This kind of gives you a removable back.

    Yazan Sakran -

    That is a terrific suggestion and it’s what I’ve done. Put the cover back on and guess what, those six screws aren’t even needed.

    In fact, thank you all for your input. (I echo Alexander Haase above; there’s no real need for a blade when separating the front.)

    Also, am I the only one who found the “iOpener approach” more effective than using a hairdryer? I don’t have an iOpener and I used one of those blue gel ice/hot packs. Simply placing it on the target area may indeed not be enough, but I covered my hand with a towel and kept it firmly pressed against the surface for a couple minutes. The visor then came off very smoothly on prying, with all the adhesive stuck only on one side.

    Never was there the slightest chance of either part cracking or warping. The operation is far less scary than (and certainly not as Difficult as) the guide would suggest.

    Ω Gsazraetr -

    I had a lot of trouble with this, and the trick that worked for me was to do something similar to Alexander Haase above (minus the suction cup, I couldn’t get my suction cup to stick well enough to pull up the glass enough for a gap).

    The bottom left corner of the phone - at least on mine - seemed to have the biggest gap and be most the ameanable to prying open. I used a razor blade and pushed it in at the very corner (as close as you can to the aluminium, so that you don’t wreck the plastic band around the glass), then jimmied up the glass with the blade until there was a gap. I placed a plastic prying tool / guitar pick in the gap, and pushed it around the edges to seperate the clips.

    Michael Lerro -

    I tried to use the suction cup method, but ended up separating the glass from the phone. The glass cracked and now my screen is broken.

    Louis Kruger -

    Same here, separated screen glass, now is damaged. WTF!

    Malcolm Zaloon -

    Well I wish this guy had been a little more detailed in where to pry and how the friggen screen just separates and the fact you need to slide the picks pointing more down than in or your going to spilt the screen apart. Now I have a brand new broken phone with custom shattered screen, a brand new replacement battery and a bunch of overpriced brand new ifixit tools I can use as paper weights. Thanks guys.

    loki -

    Bottom left of phone also worked for me. Read notes about going between black plastic and metal, not plastic and glass. Use suction cup on top of glass to pull up steadily as you work knife edge (not tip) in between the metal and screen assembly. snap joint is located about 1 inch up from bottom left corner. Work on the left side first so that when you lift off back, you are putting less stress on the buttons.

    JimmyJames -

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso. Al volver a ensamblar, aplica adhesivo nuevo donde sea necesario.

Autor

Dominik Schnabelrauch

Miembro Desde 23/11/16

169012 Reputación

Un comentario

The first picture of Step-6 is very misleading when looking at guitar pick.

By mistake, I pulled apart my front glass from digitizer by taking the pic as reference.

Vijay Bhaskar -