Reemplazo de teclado de MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010

Escrito Por: David Fear
  • Comentarios: 114
Reemplazo de teclado de MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010

Dificultad

Difícil

Pasos

29

Tiempo Requerido

2 - 4 horas

Introducción

Usa esta guía para reemplazar solo el teclado, no la caja superior completa.

Reemplazar el teclado requiere remover casi todos los componentes en tu MacBook Pro. Sigue los pasos 1 - 36 de la guía Reemplazo de la Carcasa Superior del MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012.

También necesitarás transferir el backlight antiguo al nuevo teclado (en caso de que no viniera con el nuevo teclado).

  1. dOyroxuUBfNu1T4K

    • Retira los siguientes 10 tornillos que sujetan la tapa inferior del MacBook Pro 13 "Unibody:

    • Siete tornillos Phillips de 3 mm.

    • Tres tornillos Phillips de 13,5 mm.

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    David Kilbridge -

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover -

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh -

    I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)

    Cary B -

  2. bLtKOLyJdyAxkZaG

    • Levanta ligeramente la tapa inferior y empuja hacia la parte posterior para liberarlo de las pestañas que lo sujetan

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike -

    Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.

    Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!

    Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.

    Am I allowed to cry?

    Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.

    IFIXIT - IDIGIT!

    kath myers -

    HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

    That was a brilliant read.

    Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.

    Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.

    :)

    Cary B -

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    • Usa un spudger para sacar el conector del ventilador de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Es útil torcer el spudger axialmente desde debajo de los cables del ventilador para liberar el conector.

    • La toma del ventilador y el conector del ventilador se pueden ver en la segunda y tercera imagen. Ten cuidado de no romper el zócalo de plástico del ventilador de la placa lógica mientras usas tu spudger para levantar el conector del ventilador y sacarlo de su zócalo.

    • El diseño de la placa lógica que se muestra en la segunda imagen puede verse ligeramente diferente al de tu máquina, pero el enchufe del ventilador es el mismo.

    The image is very misleading. This is why many people are breaking their connectors. Please correct this and make it VERY clear that one has to put the spudger straight behind the cables, NOT behind the connector, as shown in the pic.

    Giunia -

    Thankfully there is a helpful guide in the comments on this post for fixing the socket in the likely event that you snap the sucker clean off like I did:

    I popped off the fan connection from the logic board...Fix?

    agoodcourage -

    As Giunia said I too just broke the connector only because the photo shows to slide a spudger between the connector socket and the motherboard. I am now out of my only computer. This is VERY frustrating.

    Nha1234 -

    Broke it as well the picture is very misleading.

    Christian Flores -

  4. pFGTdZImDYtjO4b4

    • Retira los siguientes tres tornillos:

    • Un tornillo Torx T6 de 7 mm

    • Dos tornillos Torx T6 de 5,4 mm

  5. bbopIIjLSdISOvLS

    • Levanta la ventilador de la carcasa superior

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    • Toma la lengüeta de plástico asegurada al candado del cable de datos de la pantalla y gírala hacia el lado de entrada de CC de la computadora.

    • Tira con cuidado del conector del cable de datos de la pantalla paralelo a la placa.

    • No tires del conector hacia arriba o podrías dañarlo.

    On my system the pad on top of the connector was shifted making the bracket difficult to rotate into the up position. The bracket looks like a handle so my first instinct was to pull it straight up. Big mistake. I ended up popping the brass guard off the connector on the logic board. The instructions could benefit from an arrow indicating the direction to pull and rotation of the bracket.

    highnoontoday -

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    • Retira los dos tornillos siguientes que sujetan el soporte del cable de datos de la pantalla a la carcasa superior:

    • Un Phillips de 8,6 mm

    • Un Phillips de 5,6 mm

    • Levanta el soporte del cable de datos de la pantalla para sacarlo de la carcasa superior.

  8. 2pApI4moCDTnBuaR

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el subwoofer y el conector del altavoz derecho de la placa lógica.

    Push it straight down. It should snap in.

    BobG -

    The first time i tried this on a MBP 13 I broke the connector form the board. It should be noted that you have to be very careful in this step, as the plug fits very tightly and you can easily use too much force to tear the connector from the board. Use a second spudger to hold down the connector at its border and try very gently using a second spudger to move the plug out of the connector upwards.

    Joachim Kathmann -

  9. eT5TmcDL5Qy5VvaZ

    • Tira del conector del cable de la cámara hacia la unidad óptica para desconectarlo de la placa lógica.

    • Este enchufe es de metal y se puede doblar fácilmente. Asegúrate de alinear el conector con su zócalo en la placa lógica antes de acoplar las dos piezas.

    As mentioned, the socket can be easily damaged when re-inserting it. I didn't care enough and one pin was damaged. Wifi was not detected.

    Hopefully the pin was not broken (only bent). Putting it back in its correct position, the wifi re-appeared.

    Arnaud ROSAY -

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    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar la unidad óptica, el disco duro y los conectores del cable del trackpad de la placa lógica.

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    • Usa la uña o la punta de un spudger para levantar la solapa de retención del cable en el zócalo ZIF para el cable plano del teclado.

    • Usa tu spudger para deslizar el cable plano del teclado fuera de su zócalo.

    Sometimes spulger is not the best tool to slide the cable out. If it is difficult to slide, try two toothpicks to pull the cable from two sides simultaneosly.

    Leo Nikitin -

    Toothpicks did the trick, thanks

    Gábor SEBESTYÉN -

    As Mateo said, replacing the zif cable is NOT easy, and in this case, will leave you with a computer that won't power on- this cable connects the power button. I learned a trick somewhere for dealing with these cables- put a piece of good sticky tape on the cable, and use it to pull it back into the connector. Works every time.

    stevesontheroad -

    Yeah! The tape trick worked for me. Thanks!

    Ted Bishop -

    Thank you Steve, it’s works perfectly.

    never_forever18 -

  12. xakWmCBC3OMuMyXe

    • Despega la pequeña tira de cinta negra del conector del cable plano de la retroiluminación del teclado.

    Be very careful while taking this black tape off. I accidentally broke the chip off the motherboard and so my keyboard is not backlit any more.

    Asim Akath -

  13. kMZTPOCecXPuvVLW
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    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar la solapa de retención del cable en el zócalo ZIF para el cable plano de la retroiluminación del teclado.

    • Usa tu spudger para deslizar el cable plano de luz de fondo del teclado fuera de su zócalo.

    Be especially careful as my hole socket detached from the board. It would have helped to vertically press the socket to the board with the tip of a spudger. Thus partially blocking the strap, you can first peel the free end, then change position and peel the rest. Slide the ribbon cable perfectly horizontally.

    Rainer -

    I had the same issue of trying to get the ZIF cable back in but found that if I used a piece of scotch tape, it worked. I followed this guide. MacBook unibody keyboard ribbon cable won't go in

    spearson -

    A reassembly trick that works for me is to use some 3/4" blue painters tape to stick to the very back (lower end) of the ribbon cable so I can pull it up and back before locking the cam. Trying to get a good grip without cutting, or crimping the ribbon means no tweezers or pliers can be used.

    originalmachead -

  14. GA4R6Z1udiBdAWjp

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector del cable del indicador de batería de la placa lógica.

    If you’re swapping top cases, you might need to remove the battery indicator from the case and swap it to the replacement top case. It attaches with three very tiny Phillips screws. I wasn’t aware that my replacement top case didn’t have this part and got confused when reversing the steps to reassemble and I didn’t have this connector. I had to take the battery back out in order to swap the indicator over.

    Mark Barnes -

    Interesting this guide doesn’t have you disconnect the battery after step 2 then shows it unplugged already in step 14.

    plink53 -

    I would recommend revision to this guide to put battery disconnection as the first step after opening the bottom case. First rule of logic/mother boards: don’t work on or around if power is applied.

    dsfeehan -

  15. 5acPEhbAXlAZMqvR

    • Usa la punta de un spudger para quitar el micrófono del adhesivo que lo une a la carcasa superior.

    on the Australian/Asia version speaker cable is located underneath the logic board.

    linuxuser101 -

  16. pUjsTWMyb1uXYtmK

    • Retire los siguientes tornillos:

    • Dos tornillos Torx T6 de 7 mm de la placa de entrada de CC

    • Cinco tornillos Torx T6 de 3,3 mm

    • Dos tornillos Torx T6 de 4 mm

  17. 1VTxI1RA5d52tAWU
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    • No es estrictamente necesario quitar la batería antes de sacar la placa lógica, pero hace que quitar la placa lógica sea más fácil y seguro. Si dejas la batería adentro, ten especial cuidado de no doblar la placa lógica contra la caja de la batería cerca de su código de barras.

    • Retira los siguientes tornillos de tres puntas que sujetan la batería a la carcasa superior:

    • Un tornillo de tres puntas de 5,5 mm

    • Un tornillo de tres puntas de 13,5 mm

    • Saca la batería de la carcasa superior.

  18. dcGNaBIhDMgYwwJJ
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    • Levanta la placa lógica desde su borde izquierdo y levántala hasta que los puertos despejen el costado de la carcasa superior.

    • Separa la placa lógica del costado de la carcasa superior y retírala, teniendo cuidado con la placa de entrada de CC que puede quedar atrapada.

    Be careful while taking the board out, as the heatsink usually is caught by the optic drive.

    Leo Nikitin -

    mid 2012: Careful of the left speaker (on your right because unit is upside down). Gently remove with spudger tool before removing logic board and when reinstalling press firmly back into place with spudger. Install speaker after putting logic board in place but before installing screws.

    JASON CULP -

    Step 18 is out of order. Steps following this show it still installed, which is confusing.

    plink53 -

  19. f1PBEcXqISgoBBeE

    • Por precaución, te recomendamos que desconectes el conector del subwoofer de la placa lógica para evitar cualquier descarga eléctrica. Este paso es opcional y no es obligatorio.

    • Retira el acolchado suave que puede estar en la parte superior y tira suavemente del conector para sacarlo de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    It is not necessary to remove the camera cable connector (step 5) or the camera cable connector (step 10). Simply push the camera cable gently aside to remove one of the three screws securing the optical drive (step 11). Gently wiggle the optical drive from under the camera cable connector and go to step 12. Less chance of ruining your motherboard!

    tomhart -

    Absolutely. Leave it alone, you don’t need to run the risks of removing this cable, I did the replacement fine without it

    Steven Taylor -

    It does indeed come out of the connector, but the picture makes it hard to see how; the connector it goes into sits on top of the board—however, I, too, ripped mine off the board trying to remove it; I only got it out of the clip after I tore it off. SIMPLY DONT; it's unnecessary. I plan to solder it back if one of my Robotics club friends lets me borrow a soldering iron.

    Rachel -

    Alors je déconseille très fortement de toucher ce connecteur, il est extrêmement fragile. De plus, cela n’a pas d’incidence sur la suite des opérations

    Laskoni -

    The author needs to go back through this guide and correct lots of order mistakes. The fan was removed in steps 3-5 yet it’s still being shown installed in steps 19-22.

    plink53 -

  20. UqV1W6hCDkuY3GX5

    • Será necesario deslizar el pequeño retenedor de cable de plástico transparente (recuadro en rojo) pegado a la placa lógica antes de desconectar el cable de la cámara. Ten cuidado de no romper ningún componente de la placa al deslizarla para separarla del conector del cable de la cámara.

    • Tira del conector del cable de la cámara hacia la unidad óptica para desconectarlo de la placa lógica.

    • Este enchufe es de metal y se puede doblar fácilmente. Asegúrate de alinear el conector con su zócalo en la placa lógica antes de acoplar las dos piezas.

    I just completed this replacement and there is no need to do this step, you can work around this cable pretty easily. Obviously you need to be careful "dancing" around it. But it's perfectly feasible and you don't risk to break stuff disconnecting it.

    Massimo C -

  21. tuxg3OGGIPuIuMRY

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para sacar el conector de la unidad óptica de la placa lógica.

  22. TNOtRX5FDIQsFoLK

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para sacar el conector del disco duro de la placa lógica.

  23. wSQNxJGjLUTNfdTP

    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que aseguran el altavoz a la tapa superior

    • Un tornillo 3.8 mm Philips

    • Un tornillo Philips 5 mm

    On my computer, the 3.8 mm screw was near the midpoint of the subwoofer (left-to-right in the photo) and near the bottom. The 5 mm screw was top right of the subwoofer.

    BobG -

  24. dTVeRQgySo3yQXnF
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    • El altavoz aún está conectado, así que no lo remuevas por completo aún.

    • Levanta el altavoz de la unidad óptica y ponlo a un lado de la computadora.

  25. K1rWEP2JG6cnIuHC
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    • Remueve los dos tornillos Philips de 10 mm que aseguran el soporte del cable de la cámara a la tapa superior.

    • El tornillo restante puede quedar asegurado en el cable de la cámara.

    • Levanta el soporte del cable de la cámara fuera de la tapa superior.

  26. w3ESKYtGUsAGmLAx
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    • Remueve los tres tornillos Phillips de 2.5 mm que aseguran la unidad óptica a la tapa superior.

    • Levanta la unidad óptica desde la esquina derecha y retírala de la computadora.

    Install 2 outside screws first and then single inside screw to allow wiggle room to get outside screws in. Do not tighten screws until all are started.

    JASON CULP -

  27. 1ymJ6hNR4K1xZrrd
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    • Gira la caja superior para que se vea como en la imagen.

    • Remueve el tornillo Phillips #00 de 10mm.

    • Remueve el tornillo Phillips #00 de 5mm.

    • Remueve y aparta el soporte central

    • Las imágenes se capturaron de un video de YouTube, pero muestra los tornillos correctos y la parte que se debe quitar.

    When did you remove the Motherboard/Logicboard?

    Graham Tunnadine -

    Step 18.....

    Patrick Defaix -

  28. MprhSHyg46t6I2NS
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    • Despega cuidadosamente el backlight del teclado de la tapa superior.

    • Es mejor empezar de la esquina inferior derecha.

    • Desliza un spudger debajo de la esquina inferior derecha hacia arriba por el lado derecho del backlight.

    • Una vez que la lado derecho del backlight está despegado, puedes usar tus dedos para terminar de despegar cuidadosamente el backlight del teclado.

    I have not (yet) done this. Is this a situation where a little heat from a hair-dryer (not a heat gun) may help…like is it stuck by tape?

    Rusty Nails -

    I have never tried using a hairdryer. Only use a warm setting; don't use the highest setting or you might start melting it. It is stuck by a low-tack adhesive.

    David Fear -

  29. AHQGBPhMtNbTmOJv

    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos:

    • Dos tornillos PH00 de 3 mm del botón de encendido.

    • Sesenta-siete tornillos PH000 de 2mm del teclado.

    • Levanta cuidadosamente el teclado (y el botón de encendido unido al teclado).

    I have everything disconnected, I believe, and the keyboard is loose; however, I cannot gently lift out the attached power button. Is there a trick?

    Dan Daly -

    Sorry - missed one small screw. Off to get new bifocals!

    Dan Daly -

    I'd suggest adding a quick step covering attaching the new keyboard and its backlight. I’m not sure if there is anything more to do than just lay the backlight in there, and that would be helpful to know.

    agoodcourage -

    Holy !&&* - that’s a lot of screws. Much easier with a magnetic set of screwdrivers ;)

    Patrick Sgro -

    Yes, the power button on my Mac here has two black screws holding down the power button, two philips and away it comes.

    Rhys Goode -

    Be careful when unscrewing to not damage the screws! They are quite soft.

    I was left with 4 stripped screws that wouldn’t let the keyboard loose.

    What I did was I drilled carefully the heads of the screws away to release it. Had the Computer open, on a pillow, to protect the screen on the other side.

    The new keyboard is holding fine with four screws less.

    Maria Narda -

    Yeah, it’s not typo, a lot of screws. This repair is difficult JUST because of this step. It’s too easy strip the those ultra tiny screws. They are attached with blue screw glue and some of them are rusted by 2020. I had to drill out 10+ screws. Good luck.

    plasnu -

    Use a #1 phillips with a swivel head and press firmly and all screws will come out without issue.

    JASON CULP -

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue las instrucciones en orden inverso.

Autor

David Fear

Miembro Desde 08/09/11

3537 Reputación

59 comentarios

Having just done this - successfully, I might add - I need to make this guide a little more clear:

Step 1: open the case. See every other tear down for the screw count.

Step 1A: remove the battery connection.

Step 2/3: remove the fan as instructed.

Step 3A: remove the optical drive. See the relevant tear down guide for specifics.

Step 3B: remove all of the connecters to the logic board: keyboard, backlight, trackpad, fan, speaker/subwoofer, battery status indicator, hard drive, optical drive, camera, display. See the logic board removal guide for more info.

Step 3C: remove the screws holding the DC-in board and the logic board. Remove the logic board.

The remaining steps are pretty OK. Buy a new backlight and diffuser panel along with your new KB.

Perry Schlanger -

This guide is not very good at all... terrible actually. It misses so many steps!

mark -

I successfully completed this yesterday. Having never done Mac repairs myself the difficulty level made me nervous, however don't be afraid to give it a go! There are lots of little screws and parts but its not hard, more fiddly.

In addition to the tools here consider getting some kind of segmented box or little containers to keep all the screws separate. Also when I opened it up my logic board was filthy with dust! Keep a microfiber cloth and perhaps a soft brush around the clean a little as you go.

Andi -

Where do you purchase the 13" Macbook / Macbook Pro (2009-2012) Keyboard? I can see the uppercase is for sale, but the guide is for just replacing the keyboard.

Rob Meidal -

Keyboards can be purchased from powerbookmedic, thebookyard, ebay and aliexpress.

David Fear -

Is there any troubleshooting with reconnecting the pin cable to the logic board? I can't seem to get it right, right now my "enter" key isn't working.

Nick Lauder -

There is a line printed on the keyboard connector ribbon; so long as that line is flush with the keyboard socket when the cable has been inserted and the socket latch is down, then you have connected the keyboard.

Two things to check - make sure the connector and socket are clean and no pins are damaged.

David Fear -

I have replaced my keyboard and followed some guides here. After all was back in place, I started my macbook pro and it started up, but shuts down almost immediately. And this is where I am now. Laptop can start, but shuts down direct. I have resetted my pram/nvram, SMC and also started in safe mode, but nothing keeps my macbook pro running. Any idea to do next? I had a feeling the power button kept pressing, but I tested that and the key is not the issue.

Sascha van Tillo -

Hmm, did you solve your problem? Maybe you unluckily bought a defective keyboard, or maybe the connector on the board is dirty? I have the same issue with my macbook pro, which is why Im replacing the keyboard. I found that mine would only stay on if i had a key pressed down. Once I let go, it would shut off a couple seconds later.

Shane K -

I had to use the Upper Case and Optical Drive guides to help with missing steps, but this guide is still very beneficial. One additional, very critical step I learned the hard way was to use compressed air to very gently blow out the receiver for the keyboard ribbon cable. After I had a series of keys fail (but the rest of the new keyboard working), I got a second replacement, which failed on the same keys. I ended up taking everything apart again, gently using compressed air to blow out the receiving area for the cable, replaced the keyboard ribbon cable, and everything works great!

blueopus11 -

I did this full replacement in 2013 after spilling coffee on my computer and it worked perfectly until last month. Last month my toddler poured a glass of water on the keyboard. I bought another replacement keyboard on amazon and did the full install. This time however most of the keys still don't work even after replacing (a few do). I also am having trouble getting the ribbon to stay in the motherboard. When I push the clasp back down it doesn't act like the ribbon is staying in place and is very flimsy in place and could easily fall out. I read about blowing out the connector with pressed air, is there any other recomendation on what I might be able to do?

Johnny Knox -

I bet you have already solved this, but for other people: I agree, the keyboard cable is one of the hardest things to put back in its correct place.

This YouTube video helped me: "Guide: How to Remove / Replace Macbook Pro Logic Board - Easy & Detailed Instructions" by MrTechEasy.

Go to 34:20. If the video is not available in the future, here is what he recommends:

- Make sure that the socket retainer clip on the backside of the connector is on the up-position (it's the hinge on the back of the socket).

- Use a flat, plastic thing to lift the keyboard ribbon cable from the underside, so that it bulges up a bit.

- Push gently on the top with your finger, on the bulge, so it will gently start sliding into the socket.

- Keep repeating until it doesn't go in any more. Make sure it's equally inserted across the entire width, so that it's not slightly bent towards one side. Mine went in until only 1mm of the pins were visible on the ribbon cable.

- Then close the clasp.

Aitte -

Everyone must understand: Official Apple parts are only sold *to* CERTIFIED Apple repair centers, and they aren't allowed to sell them loose. So the ONLY way to get an OFFICIAL keyboard is to pay for an OFFICIAL Apple repair.

YES, this means that EVERY keyboard you find on Amazon, eBay, AliExpress, etc is a Chinese COPY. EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THEM!

But the copies are GOOD! I bought from "JS Mall Limited" at AliExpress:

* Price: 5/5. Only $18.

* Material Quality: 5/5. Plastic & metal quality as good as original.

* Keyboard Feel: 5/5. Typing feels and sounds exactly like original!

* Print Quality: 3/5. The key text is whiter than the original (that's not a bad thing). The print is also off-center by 0.5-1 mm, but you can't expect cheap copycats to perfectly align the printing. I don't care, they're "centered ENOUGH", only noticeable if you look very close, and you don't stare at keys when typing. Only a nerd would care about this minor issue.

Most importantly, $18 vs $400 (official repair) is an easy choice.

Aitte -

Here are some tips for this repair:

- If you want a super detailed photo guide, Google "insidemylaptop How to disassemble MacBook Pro 15″ (Mid 2010) and replace the keyboard".

- Do NOT skip the PH000 screwdriver. You will destroy the keyboard screws if you try something larger than a PH00 on them, and a PH000 would be best. If you destroy the tiny screws, you may never be able to remove the old keyboard. Don't repeat my mistake. I nearly stripped mine and went and bought a PH000 in a panic!

- The keyboard cable connector looks weird, it has a blue strip on the backside. Do not peel that strip! It's supposed to be like that! It adds support to the connectors, which are actually the small lines on the FRONT side of the cable.

- To re-connect the keyboard cable, you should gently lift and push down on the cable to guide more and more of it into the connector, until it won't got in any further. In my situation I saw about 1mm of the connector markings on the cable when fully seated.

Aitte -

One more great tip:

People seem to freak out about the backlight, and how "hard it is" to remove. It was so easy to remove it nicely and save it for re-use. Just gently slide something under the glue on the sides, so that the glue lifts, and just sloooowly peel it carefully and gently.

If you only spilled water, the original backlight you peel off should still work and still be clean. The original Apple backlight outputs a perfectly even light and is the best backlight you can get. Chinese backlight copies are sometimes said to be uneven, so why take the risk?

If you carefully peel the backlight, it will be undamaged, and it's very easy to re-attach.

But I still suggest buying your chinese keyboard replacement WITH a chinese backlight just in case you destroy yours (or you spilled something gross and it's too sticky/dirty to save). "JS Mall Limited" sold me a package with both keyboard and backlight for about $3 more than just the keyboard. I ended up re-using the original so I never tried theirs.

Aitte -

Hello, thanks for that but steps from 3 to 4-5 is not very clear, do I need to remove every single, little and different screw from logical board? Or there is a more simple way for removing keyboard for replacement?

Salvatore Capolupo -

The guide has been revised to include the correct steps to remove the logic board, optical drive and centre bracket.

Yes, you have to remove every single, little and different screw from logical board.

It is necessary to remove the logic board, optical drive, centre bracket, subwoofer and keyboard backlight in order to remove the keyboard.

David Fear -

So I did all of this and I thought I was successful. However, now my laptop will not power up. I has it plugged in and the light on the cable is on. Any thoughts on what I did wrong? Help!

Fabio Ricupero -

Great guide! Would have costed me much more to have a technician perform this type of service. I did it all myself with minimal problems and gained a new sense of self-confidence when it comes to assembly/disassembly. Very good tutorial!

Chris Donley -

I was able to replace my keyboard using this guide.

My backlight doesn't work anymore, but I attribute that to me messing too much with the backlight ribbon...

Sean Demura -

here is detailed video tutorial manual for macbook pro 13 a1278 keyboard repair and replacement https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nxVho-H...

APP LOGGER -

Hey there,

I want to replace my keyboard, since i've spilt beer on it...

I successfuly reached the keyboard of my MacBookPro, but i have an issue with some PH000 screws.

Some screws just don't want to unscrew, it seems deeply stucked.

I am afraid that i might have damaged some screws too, using a PH00 screwdriver instead of a PH000 one.

I don't know how to deal with this tiny PH000 material..

1/ how do you force such a tiny screw to unscrew with minimal damage ?

2/ how do you unscrew a stripped PH000 screw ?

I plan to get a PH000 screwdriver from iFixit, and some new PH000 screw too... but if you have any advice, please let me know folks !

Jp -

Hi

Answers:

Q1. You can remove the upper display assembly from the top case, then you can place the top case flat on your work surface.

2) buy a screw extractor set.

Hope this helps.

David Fear -

I replaced the keyboard and put it all back together successfully it turned it and turned back on. So I shut it down and left it on the charger but now it won't turn on? Any ideas what went wrong?

Jose -

Thank you for this guide, I just used it to replace the keyboard on a 17in Macbook Pro and it works. Most of the guide is still relevant to the larger macbook, I also used the ifixit teardown guide. FYI my local hardware store had a Husky 18-piece precision driver set for for about $10, and I used a large zip tie instead of the spudger, it worked just as well.

Just a note: It helped me a great deal to keep taking pictures of the repair as I removed each individual component. The order matters, and it helps distinguish the screw sizes as well.

Great Cornholio -

A great tutorial. It was my first time and I did it successfully in about 4 hours. Thank you so much!

Alireza Alizadeh -

Hi there,

I'd like to swap a Qwerty for a Qwertz keyboard, as the old one has some keys that are not working properly. Has anyone tried something like this? are they interchangable? the macbook was bought in Italy, but since I moved to Germany I'm now writing mostly in german, so it would be nice to have a native german keyboard.

cheers :-)

Anton -

As far I can tell the QWERTZ (DE) and QWERTY (UK) keyboards have the same physical layout and and the keyboard connector is in the same place.

David Fear -

What is the reliable source to purchase keyboard backlight

Please guide me

waseem anwar -

Where are you?

David Fear -

Done the repair today. I needed to look at the uppercase remove guide for die Macbook Pro unibody mid 2012 to complete it. It took me about 2,5 hours, but now my keyboard (I purchased the new one on amazon) works again! Thanks for the guide, it helped me a lot.

Cary Numen -

I just did this for my Late 2011 13" MacBook Pro. A few of the steps are different but if you're confident enough to try this, you probably have the skills to improvise when things look a bit different. I had to load up some procedures specific to my model, like how to remove the CD/DVD drive (and the subwoofer on top of it).

This guide needs substantial editing (steps 21 and 22 can be cut because you already removed those cables in step 10, for instance). They also forget to remove the battery cable in the beginning, which is pretty important. But kudos to the author for getting this started. If it wasn't for this guide I wouldn't be able to type the letters D, F, G, H, J, K, and L!

minlay -

This is a good guide, but several steps are out of order. For example you have to remove the speaker before the optical drive ans so on. The order is necessary in this case.

j0vian -

EPIC FAIL at Step 3!!! The late 2009 Macbook pro I was working on has the fan cable SOLDERED to the logic board. Inexperience led me to try a little to hard in prying this off - snapping the soldered contacts. Plan A had this MBP destined for the recycling, but I thought I'd give this a try. So it is back to Plan A. Beware if your model is not exactly the same. There are several differences in constuction on the 2009 models.

Andrew Morrice -

Or you could replace the logic board…If it's cost effective…

Quinn H -

This process was horrible. I'll never do it again.

Jared Borne -

My MBP is an A1286 15.4” Family ID: Z0M1

I have NUMEROUS keys that do not work. Tried to research, and directly OPPOSING “Advice”. About 40% say that My model’s Keyboard is NOT replaceable (part of entire ‘body’). Leaving about 60% saying that it CAN.

While, I AM mechanically inclined, I CANNOT AFFORD TO RUIN MY LAPTOP. Doing copious reading, I pulled the trigger and got all of the Parts, including anti-static mat, whiteboard grid with dbl sided tape to lie screws in correct orientation, as they are removed, (Chinese) Keyboard w/ backlit keys, etc.

integritybuilders -

Hit Submit key too soon.

I am replacing HD, and hoped that while I'm at it, I can resolve Keyboard issue as well. I realize that (F’ing Chinese) parts have LOW Quality Control, but I saw No other viable options (that I could afford).

Experienced Advice MOST APPRECIATED

integritybuilders -

anyone ?!?!?

integritybuilders -

All A1278, A1286 and A1297 macbooks have replaceable keyboards.

David Fear -

Anyone know where I can get an affordable tool kit (with EVERYTHING I will need in it) to do this keyboard replacement procedure?

Mike Duckwall -

The 64 Bit Driver Kit should have all the bits you need.

Mako Precision Bit Set

David Fear -

Thanks for tutorial :)

anderson_nino -

I did it succesfully ! It is not as hard as it seems.

My keyboard was typing 2 caracters at the same time and was missing keys. ie : typing “R” would write '“RY”. I changed the keyboard with a cheap one you find on eBay. Now it works perfectly !

Thanks a lot to whoever made this tutorial.

David Scanu -

Thanks! But I support myself with this video https://youtu.be/XJRHW-xpbyo

PetaZeta -

This guide can also be used for the removal of the optical drive of a MacBook Pro 15” unibody mid 2013, under which the power button can be accessed, just ignor steps 6 & 7, steps 11 to 18, and steps 27 to29. It appears that this guide may also be used to remove the logic board as well, because the fixings shown in the picture at step 16 look similat to those of the 15” MacBook Pro, although you will also have to remove the additional fan.

Pete -

1. Completely out of order

2. Broken speaker connector

3. Repeated steps

TheYootz Media Group -

This was clear for me and I was able to replace a keyboard from a 2010 macbook pro 13” successfully in under two hours.

Eston Ravey -

19 bis 22 sind falsch und durcheinandergekommen. Sie gehoeren dort nicht. Ein stecker fehlt offenbar. Das ein und ausstecken verschwiegen.

Chr Jacobs -

Yeah, I did it, too. It really takes a while but it is rather a medium difficulty, I’d say. Triple check that you have all connectors (I think it was 10) on top of the MB before putting the screws back in, I realized I forgot the battery indicator connector, but no biggie. I did this on a 15inch Early 2011 model, so I had to actually use 2 guides for that, because there is no separate guide for Keyboard replacements for this particular model.

Andreas Kosch -

Merci ! Je viens de terminer le remplacement d’un clavier QWERTY avec un bouton d’allumage défectueux par un AZERTY original tout neuf (25€). Grâce à ce tutoriel, j’ai économisé plus de 100€ de main d’œuvre et le résultat m’est très satisfaisant ! Bien faire attention au remontage des petits composants à reconnecter sans les pincer. Et voilà, une seconde nouvelle vie pour ce MBP de 2012 acheté d’occasion à un bon prix :-)

Thierry CHATEAU -

Merci Beaucoup! Grace à se tutoriel très complet, j’ai sans difficultés démonté, changer mon clavier et remonté mon ordinateur. Je recommanderais une méthode de classement des vis lors du démontage avec une numérotation similaire à la numérotation des étapes, il m’a été de ce fait très simple de remonté l’ordinateur en retrouvant les vis correspondantes.

Je remercie l’auteur de celui-ci de favoriser la réparation et d’éviter une obsolescence dument calculé.

James Torp -

Merci beaucoup, très bon tutoriel. J ai juste du chauffer le mac pres d un chauffage pour brancher la nappe du clavier un récalcitrante (même avec du scotch je n y arrivais pas). Thanks a lot, very good tutorial. I just need to heat the mac to plug the keyboard to the motherboard.

Yankel Doutreleau -

I have mid 2012 macbook pro 13 with UK version keyboard, but I would like to change it to US version. Will this work?

Simas Kažkas -

Nope. UK layout uses the ISO key layout, whereas the US keyboard is unique and uses the ANSI layout. Holes aren't in the same place. You'd have to replace the whole topcase.

cubytus -

It was weird that step 18 said to remove the logic board, then the next steps all showed the logic board still in place, and would definitely have had to be done before removing it. Some things were also different/missing/in different places than on the laptop I was fixing (MBP A1278) but it was close enough that I could figure it out. Overall very helpful, thank you.

Shane Mikhail Medina -

A few keys such as N H 678 stopped working how can I fix it?

hassaan.rahim -

The guide was great! But after having replaced the keyboard, it all works well but every so often, like every 5-10 seconds. Random keys start pushing down indefinitely.. you can stop it by pressing the key, but I do t know what's happening. It is very random and happens all around the keyboard not just one area. Did it tighten screws to tightly or is it malfunctioning? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Mark -

After a cooking-with-the-recipe-too-close accident, oil got into the keyboard circuit and - as i didn’t open and clean straight up - it got worst and worst until i couldn’t even write my password when turning on my MBP.

At this time I tried deep cleaning the keyboard from inside with alcohol and everything but it was too late, I could only type ”’[»Ûå»ÁØÁÁ» kind of characters as if i was constantly pressing alt+MAJ… (and also the battery was to be replaced)

Anyway, I made the big work: Took me a good day to take everything apart, clean an old machine of mines and replace several pieces. But here we are! 3rd revival of my mid-2012 13” MBP from 2015 ! (previously changed hard drive, logic board, RAM bars, cables…). You can say i’m very proud for avoiding such a money spending, gaining in skills, and keeping the belief fixing is better than discard!

Though, because of the tutorials crossing, some steps are double and in a different order, might be confusing.

mia BL -