Reemplazo del altavoz derecho del MacBook Retina 2015

Paso 1

Antes de proceder, desconecte y apague su MacBook. Cierre la pantalla y póngalo boca abajo.
Sólo modelos del 2015: Para evitar daños en la Logic board, cuando la reparación de su MacBook esté acabada, pero antes de encenderla , conéctela a una fuente de bajo voltaje usando un cargador de Iphone de 5W y un cable de USB-C a USB-A.
Quitar los siguientes ocho tornillos que aseguran la carcasa inferior.
Dos tornillos P5 de 1.8 mm
Cuatro tornillos P5 de 2.9 mm
Dos tornillos P5 de 6.1 mm
Tenga en cuenta la orientación de los tornillos al quitarlos - Es necesario reinstalarlos en un ligero ángulo.
Mientras hace la reparación, mantenga un seguimiento de cada tornillo y asegúrese de que todo vuelve exactamente a donde procede para evitar dañar su dispositivo.

If, like me, you didn’t have a P5 Pentalope screwdriver but did have one that fits an iPhone.

You can sand down the tip until it’s the right size.

Stuart - 13/04/20

Thank you Stuart! I would never have thought of this and it worked perfectly.

R McP -

Hello,

where do I plug the USB-C to USB-A cable on MacBook MacBook Pro (Retina, 15-inch, Mid 2015)

I can’t any port suitable for USB-c !??

sissi - 05/03/21

My MacBook had P4 pentalobe screws, notP5

Greg Lavardera -

Big thanks to Jeff for such thorough and detailed instructions. This is definitely a more advanced repair so if you're not comfortable with making such repairs, like having experience working on iPhones, computers, etc., you might think twice before attempting. It's very helpful to read all the instructions thoroughly before starting. Plan on 3 to 4 hours—the battery removal along with its adhesive is a real $@$*-show, but totally doable if you followed Jeff's recommendations.

I'll post a few tips in the comments on each step that I think is worth noting but I will mention here one of the trickier steps. ZIF connectors on the flat cables can be a little tricky, especially if you have never done these. Before attempting to do the first one (step 8) review the others in steps 16, 20, and 25. You'll get a better sense of how these little retaining flaps flip up and what they actually look like when you study each photo in each step—they are very tiny and fragile.

Steven Gibson -

Just finished replacing the battery. I followed the directions that came with the battery instead of this guide. In short, Steps 15 to 35 are not necessary. You don't have to completely disassemble the laptop to replace the battery.

Andrew Mohan -

Paso 2

Calce sus dedos entre la carcasa superior y la inferior, empezando por la parte trasera del MacBook entre las bisagras.
Levante la carcasa inferior solo ligeramente para evitar dañar los cables que conectan la carcasa inferior con la carcasa superior.
Manteniendo un agarre firme, levante sin pausa hasta que la carcasa inferior se separe ligeramente de la carcasa superior.
Tal vez experimente bastante resistencia al levantar la carcasa inferior. Si es necesario, deslice una púa o otra herramienta segura EDS debajo de los bordes laterales de la carcasa inferior para solar las dos pestañas ocultas que lo sujetan.
Durante el reensamblado, para recolocar las pestañas, presione firmemente cerca de ambos bordes laterales de la carcasa inferior (cerca de donde la púa es insertada en la tercera imagen) hasta que escuche que las pestañas están en su lugar.

Paso 3

Manteniendo la carcasa inferior en su sitio, dele la vuelta cuidadosamente al MacBook de manera que el logo de Apple esté arriba.

Paso 4

Levante la carcasa superior y el display juntos desde el borde frontal y levántelos sobre un ángulo de 45º.
Puede ayudar mantener el MacBook abierto en esta posición para el paso siguiente.

This step at the suggested height tears the ribbon cable. do step 7 first. carefully

Kiernan - 04/03/19

If you carefully open the display all the way and then lift the upper case, you can let the display rest on your flat working surface. The upper case will be held in place at an appropriate angle by the display hinge.

Mike C -

Paso 5

Usa el lado plano de un spudger para presionar y sostener los pequeños botones dorados de ‘desconexión de batería’.
Si el LED de poder sigue iluminado, continua sosteniendo el botón hasta que el LED se apague, y después suelta. Esto puede tardar hasta 10 segundos.
Si el LED no se enciende, suelta el botón después de 5-10 segundos. Presiona y sostiene otra vez por 5-10 segundos, y suelta. Finalmente, presiona y sostiene una tercera vez por 5-10 segundo, y suelta.
Esto asegura que el MacBook esté totalmente apagado y que es seguro trabajar en él.

Wow okay could someone explain why this is necessary? What happens if you skip this step and simply undo the screw to disconnect the power?

EB Computers - 20/12/20

Removing the screw does not disconnect the power—power comes from the battery terminals contacting the underside of the logic board, and they’re tricky to separate reliably at this stage of disassembly. This step is the safest and easiest way to kill power; don’t skip it.

Jeff Suovanen - 21/12/20

What if I can’t get my LED to power on when reassembling the machine?

greg2b - 18/01/21

Update: Realized my USB-C connector (Step 14) wasn’t properly seated.

greg2b - 25/01/21

Hi what will happen if i skip this step, coz i did tried to power down the battery by pressing small gold button, but no avail. the LED light still there even after more than 5 times press (5-10secs or more) each press.

Dimitri Zaborski -

Did you learn the answer to your question? I'm having the same issue -- I keep pressing the gold button but the battery light stays on.

R McP -

Mi laptop doesn’t turn it on doing that ):

alexisaguinagam26 -

Paso 6

Cierra el MacBook y cuidadosamente voltéalo al revés.

Paso 7

Levantando desde el borde frontal, abre la carcasa inferior hasta un ángulo de unos 45º.
Toma cuidado de no dañar los ables planos que siguen uniendo la carcasa inferior al MacBook.

Before the IPD flex cable can be removed the battery disconnect button has be held down for up to 10 seconds. If the LED near the battery connector is switched on it shows that there is power going through the logic board from the battery, once the button is pressed and this light goes off the machine is safe to be worked on.

Aaron Dalziel - 12/04/18

Paso 8

Usa pinzas para pelar la cinta que cubre el conector ZIF del cable del trackpad.

Only peel back the first half of the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector—do not completely remove.

Steven Gibson -

Paso 9

Usa una spudger para levantar la solapa de retención del conector ZIF del cable del trackpad.

This is very tricky indeed - at least on my computer. I failed at this point - having skipped to it as sugested above so as not to stress the ribbons on the other side. The ZIF was not as I expected. They had opened when I pulled up the stick cover and I found I was working on the socket itself. The top edge came adrift after almost no pressure being put on it. The ribon did not come free with gentle pulling though. At that point I put the back on again… waited until the battery recharged a bit and found I had not nroken it after all. I doubt I shall try again. It is much harder to replace than the 15 inch - much…

Simon Anthony - 21/11/19

I’ve just found that I have broken it after all. No keyboard. Bluetooth still works so I can use the machine.

All in all, an expensive mistake. BTW - I did NOT get the kit from IFIXIT - not sold here.

Simon Anthony - 21/11/19

I found “Recognizing & Disconnecting Cable Connectors”

Reconocimiento y desconexión de conectores de cable

useful, esp. for someone who has not used ZIF connectors and retaining flaps before. There are several retaining flaps that need to be opened. The first time is tricky as you need a sense of how much force to apply. I used the flat end of the provided spudger. Apply progressively firmer upward pressure until the retaining flap pops open. The first time is tricky, but straightforward thereafter.

Ki Park - 31/12/20

Mouse back and forth between the two right-side thumbnail photos and you will get a little animation feel showing how these ZIF connectors operate—it's very helpful. Apply light but consistent pressure to pop them up. Helps to go side to side if they're a little stubborn.

Steven Gibson -

Paso 10

Desconecta el cable de cinta del trackpad tirando suavemente de él a través de su ranura en el marco.

Paso 11

Cuidadosamente voltea el MacBook, para que la carcasa inferior se mantenga plana.
Levanta el ensamble de la carcasa superior/pantalla en un ángulo de 90º, y asientalo en contra de algo fuerte para que no lo tengas que sostener.
Agrega una pieza de cinta cerca del trackpad para asegurar la carcasa superior y prevenir movimientos accidentales.
Es posible abrir el MacBook todo el camino y asentar plano los dos lados, pero esto puede dañar los cables flex y no es recomendado.

You can open the laptop screen all the way open with it flat in the table (screen facing up) and the keyboard should stay up.

xavierviveros - 20/04/20

Paso 12

Remueve el único tornillo Torx T5 de 2.9 mm asegurando el conector de la batería a la placa lógica.
Los modelos de 2015 tienen un clip de tierra plateado con dos almohadillas de espuma directamente debajo de este tornillo, el cual puede soltarse. Asegura de reinstalarlo durante el re-ensamble.

the moment you opening macbook case and before any tinkering with connections, you MUST press little yellow button on logicboard, located on the right from battery connector - this will disable all power to the board. You can check by looking at the small led on left side of the battery connector - if there is very faint light, it means that power is still there. After pressing button light should go off. Removing screw is not necessary at all, and like I said - you MUST disable power before any touching to connections etc.

DigiHead - 25/02/18

Where it says

“2015 models have a silver grounding clip with two foam pads directly under this screw“

I have a 2015 MacBook & the grounding clip is not there!

I’m using this guide to investigate why there are lines on screen or darker screen at certain angles of opening it. Also a background ghosting effect on screen too.

No obvious damage or loose connectors so wondered if the lack of grounding clip can cause these symptoms?

Anybody out there know?

nijafe -

Either buy the clip and check, or replace the screen (or LB), but the macbook would more likely not start if there is a missing grounded connection, depending on what is being grounded.

Sean -

Paso 13

Como precaución añadida, puedes desconectar fisicamente la batería insertando una púa de insolación de batería entre la placa lógica y el conector de la batería.

I HAD TO DO THIS TWICE. After replacing the battery while following this guide to a 'T', the battery was not being recognized by the logic board. Strangely, with the power unplugged it would still light up the screen and tell me the battery was at a critical level, but it would not boot. Resetting the SMC had no effect. I thought I killed my computer or got a bad battery, so as a last ditch effort I re-opened the case, pressed the battery disconnect button, removed the screw and inserted the battery separation tool again to Physically Disconnect the battery from the mainboard. After about 5 minutes I then removed the tool and reassembled everything, plugged in via 5v iphone charger and USBA-C cable again and LO, the battery is now reporting correctly, charging correctly and allowing me to boot on its power .

Neil Schultz - 25/04/22

Paso 14

Remueve los dos tornillos asegurando el retenedor del cable del puerto USB-C:
Tornillo Tri-punta Y00 de 1.1 mm
Algunas variaciones de este modelo pueden usar un tornillo Phillips.
Tornillo Torx T5 de 3.5 mm

This was oddly the hardest part. That Tri-Point screw just wouldn’t budge! I had to sand the end of the only Tri-point screwdriver I had in the end to get it to fit.

Stuart - 13/04/20

Be sure to get the metal plate under the chip near where the PT5 screw is before tightening

abscate - 29/09/20

I should have read the comments before using the provided 1.1 mm Tri-point Y00 bit. I almost stripped the screw but was able to use a small flat head bit to open the screw.

Ifixit: you may want to update this part in the instructions. Not everyone reads the comment section, esp. when it comes to specification of bits which is basic and must be accurate. This is one of the more critical ones in the procedure that can easily go south. The rest of the instructions are excellent.

Ki Park - 31/12/20

early 2015 model here. I’ve used a Y1.5 with cautiously applied down force.

beaudry.ian - 25/01/21

My 2015 had a 2.5mm Y screw not a Y000.

Michael Bonney - 05/02/21

Adding to the helpful comments above, on replacing the 1.1mm tripoint screw, I found the the magnetism of the nearby speaker coil overcame that of the driver and would draw the screw away or the combo of forces would fling it out of the work area! After fiddling with it for too long, I used some of the battery adhesive removed earlier to attached the screw to the driver. Wax would probably work better if I’d had some.

jefflyons - 22/04/21

I used the PH00 head to unscrew what they call the “1.1 mm Tri-point Y00 screw”, NOT the Y00 head, and it unscrewed perfectly fine.

Grace Escamilla -

Agreed, my screw was a PH00.

stephen delaney -

Paso 15

Usa el lado plano de un spudger para desconectar el retenedor del cable del puerto USB-C levantandola directamente de la placa lógica.
Para recolectar este cable, primero alinea el retenedor de metal arriba de los huecos de los tornillos, luego presiona abajo en el medio del retenedor. Asegura que esta alineado correctamente, o puede que dañes el conector.

Emphasis on aligning the bracket correctly. What the pictures do not show is that underneath the flat part of the metal bracket (the area between the two screw holes) is a connector that needs to be accurately aligned. Aligning the two screw holes does not imply that the connector is seated correctly.

After I re-assembled my 2015 MacBook power would not come on. I thought I had damaged the logic board despite being careful and following instructions. Diagnosing the problem took a while. Retracing the steps and focusing on power supply I was able to determine that the metal flap which hides the connector underneath had not made proper contact.

What I did was to use a finger to get a tactile feel for the connector underneath the metal bracket aligning properly and then press down vertically when it seemed to be aligned. It’s a subtle tactile feel. After re-doing this step, I got power back. Be careful not to damage the connector as noted in the instructions.

Ki Park - 31/12/20

Good tip. It’s so easy to damage these fragile connectors by forcing the plug in and reattaching the mounting plate screws

Peter Newman -

Paso 16

Usa un spudger para levantar la solapa revendedora en el conector ZIF de la placa del conector de audio.

Paso 17

Desconecta el cable plano de la placa del conector de audio jalándolo afuera del conector ZIF.
Durante el re-ensamble, orienta el cable plano para que el lado de las lineas blancas miren hacia ti, como mostrado.

hey my macbook do not have sound after replacing the topcase, i did connect everything like here you did, also I did the reset of PR and NVRAM. What Can I check more? simply when I open the OS, there is no audio device at all

dkflu - 16/07/19

The audio jack cable is a bit of a pain to reinsert. I found if I turned the screen and the bottom on its side, like an open book, I had much better orientation and it was much easier to insert.

Steven Gibson -

Paso 18

Usa unas pinzas para despegar la cinta que cubre el conector del cable de la pantalla.

Paso 19

Es posible que la solapa metálica de retención del conector del cable de la pantalla se abra y quede pegada a la cinta.
Si es así, usa el extremo plano de una pinza para sujetar la solapa de retención mientras despegas la cinta con las pinzas.

Paso 20

Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para abrir la solapa de retención del conector del cable de la pantalla.
Intenta mantenerlo libre de la cinta, o puede volver a adherirse y dificultar la extracción del cable.

Paso 21

Desliza con cuidado el extremo plano de un spudger por debajo del cable de la pantalla para separar el adhesivo que lo sujeta a la caja inferior.
Ten cuidado de no dañar el cable. Si no se separa fácilmente, calienta el cable y/o la caja directamente debajo de él con un secador de pelo o un iOpener para ablandar el adhesivo, e inténtalo de nuevo.

Paso 22

Desconecta el cable de la pantalla tirando suavemente de él para sacarlo de su conector.
Cierra inmediatamente la tapa de retención.
La solapa debe permanecer cerrada cuando se vuelva a insertar el cable durante el montaje. Alinea con cuidado el cable con los contactos dorados hacia abajo y deslízalo suavemente en el conector. Ten cuidado de no engarzar ni dañar el cable. Cuando esté completamente insertado, las hendiduras de los lados no deben ser visibles.

A step was skipped. You have to flip up the metal locking tab on the socket before the cable can be removed. See the photo.

Vin Coniglione - 15/12/20

And be careful when re-inserting the connector. One end of the two indentations got a little bent (I did not notice) which resulted in a black screen when powering up. I used a heat gun (low setting) to separate the cable from the labtop housing. When re-assembling, first insert the connector (after closing the metal flap as instructed), verify that it’s properly seated, then re-attach the rest of the cable to the laptop housing. In the first try, I first re-attached the cable to the housing, then tried to insert the cable connected into the metal socket. Because of a lack of slack, the cable connector at one end got bent slightly. After identifying the problem, I had to straighten it/unbend out using my fingers. Hence it is easier to insert the connector first, then attach the rest of the cable to the laptop housing.

Ki Park - 31/12/20

Black screen upon reboot:

Inserting the display ribbon cable into it’s contact without closing the metal flap before reassembly will result in a black screen.

Charlene Lizut -

Paso 23

Separe el conjunto de la caja superior del conjunto de la caja inferior.

Paso 24

Utiliza unas pinzas para despegar la cinta que cubre los dos conectores ZIF, uno para el cable del altavoz derecho y otro para el cable de la placa de audio.

Removing the logicboard must be safer way, but battery replacement can be accomplished if you skip here to step 32, and omit 36.

Aki Mochi - 12/12/20

I'm not sure removing the logic board is safer, you have many more opportunities to break something. I left it connected but removed the screws so I could maneuver the battery underneath. Faster and safer imo.

maccentric -

Paso 25

Utiliza la punta de un spudger para levantar las dos solapas de retención del conector ZIF.

Paso 26

Tira con cuidado hacia atrás de los dos trozos de cinta que acabas de despegar para desconectar los dos cables de cinta.

Paso 27

Utiliza la punta de un spudger para despegar la almohadilla de espuma que cubre los dos conectores de la antena.

Paso 28

Utiliza unas pinzas para desconectar el primer conector de la antena levantándolo directamente de su zócalo.
Los conectores de antena y las tomas son extremadamente frágiles. Ten mucho cuidado de levantar sólo el conector, y no el propio zócalo. No levantes por debajo del cable, ni ejerzas ninguna tensión innecesaria sobre él.

The supplied tweezer is no good. You need one with grooves as shown in the picture. When re-inserting the antenna connectors, make sure that they are seated properly before pushing down. If you have magnifying equipment, use that to get visual confirmation. I used tactile feedback from my fingers to discern proper alignment. Try not to force it.

Ki Park - 31/12/20

I used the tweezers provided by iFixit. I struggled with both connectors and finally managed to disconnect both, but when I came back to reconnect them, I realized that both connectors on the logic board were loose. Long story short, it turns out that my little exciting adventure changing the battery cost me $530 to send it for repair at Apple Care. I am quite good at troubleshooting Mac and used to work for Apple for many years. This one step is more dangerous than it seems, because you can end up like me, without wifi on your mac. Honestly, for those who think they can do it, think twice. You can thank me later…

Arthur Liegeois - 28/01/21

For me this step was the only point where I had a bit of trouble. The supplied tweezers were not the best for disconnecting the antenna connectors as Ki Park points out already. In my case the outer ring of one of the connectors on the logic board bended slightly. It bended back in place during assembly and the wifi works as normal again after the repair. It is very tricky though, really be careful in this step and use other tools as necessary.

Arie Machgeels van Ziel -

BY FAR THE MOST DANGEROUS PART OF THE JOB!. I broked one connector and spent an hour with high powered magnifiers to try a repair. Wasted an hour on this. Id suggest leaving the logic board in place if possible

Crisis Guy -

I had no problem with this. The key is to come toward the connectors from the opposite direction from that shown in the photo. Easier to grip the connector.

david -

I broke one. Looking back, it may have been safer to detach the motherboard from the case before disconnecting the antenna, as it allows more angles to access them. 😢

bredelet -

F. I broke one

Ried Cartwright -

I actually put one of the tweezer tines under the connector and used it as a lever gently to pop the antenna connector off the housing. Worked well, but I had to be super careful not to break anything.

Woodward Price -

These connectors are incredibly finicky to reinstall. Precise alignment is critical. You can sort of get a sense of when the connectors are properly aligned by trying to slide them side to side with your finger, but mostly it's a case of trial and error. Don't apply excessive force because you risk damaging the edges of the connectors. When properly aligned they don't exactly click, but you do feel them go in.

nigel -

DO NOT REMOVE THESE. As others have stated these are fragile and finicky to remove and reinstall. Instead, leave them intact and lift up the logic board at a 70 to 80% angle. Use a piece of tape secured to the bottom edge of the computer and the top edge of the logic board to hold it up and out of the way. If you are diligent, you can remove the batteries without touching or messing with the logic board. Use caution, don't get too overzealous, take your time.

Steven Gibson -

Paso 29

Utiliza unas pinzas para desconectar el segundo conector de la antena levantándolo directamente de su zócalo.
Los conectores de antena y las tomas son extremadamente frágiles. Ten mucho cuidado de levantar sólo el conector, y no el propio zócalo. No levantes por debajo del cable, ni ejerzas ninguna tensión innecesaria sobre él.

Broke a connector. Now what?

chrisadams - 03/05/20

BEWARE - there are no instructions on how to reassemble this. It goes to step 52 - battery installed and that is it. Easy to pull out, almost impossible to put back in afterwards. So STUDY this to get an idea of how to reattach.

Kyle Swafford -

Paso 30

Utiliza una pinza para desconectar el conector del cable del altavoz izquierdo haciendo palanca hacia arriba desde la placa lógica.

Reassembling NOTE. The left speaker cable needs to be below the logic board when screwing in the right screw. Otherwise you will have to backtrack.

Kyle Swafford -

Paso 31

Utiliza un spudger para levantar la solapa de sujeción del conector ZIF del cable del trackpad.

Paso 32

Desconecta el cable del trackpad de la placa lógica tirando suavemente de él para sacarlo de su conector.

Once the logic board has been replaced, when following these instructions in the reverse order it should be pointed out that the all the flaps are flipped down. A distracted person might try to force in the flat connector before realising that he has to flip up the flap of the new logic board.

Davide Dante - 23/09/19

Paso 33

Retira el único tornillo T5 Torx de 3,5 mm que sujeta la placa lógica a la carcasa inferior.

Paso 34

Levanta el borde delantero de la placa lógica.
Manipula la placa lógica sólo por sus bordes.
Levanta y separa la cinta EMI que asegura la placa lógica a la carcasa inferior.
Si calientas la cinta con un secador de pelo o un iOpener, será más fácil despegarla.
Vuelve a colocar la cinta de forma segura durante el montaje.

“Reattach the tape securely during reassembly.”

In my case the tape did not stick properly to the lower case anymore and also came a bit loose from the logic board. Nonetheless my macbook works fine after the repair, so I'm not sure how important the EMI tape is. If I experience problems in the future I might open the macbook up again and check the tape and perhaps reattach it better with some new glue. There is probably special glue needed, so I'll look into that when it becomes an issue.

Arie Machgeels van Ziel -

Paso 35

Retira la placa lógica.

If you are replacing the logic board once the machine has been rebuild the 2015 model has to have a 5W power adapter plugged into the machine first before the full 29W power supply otherwise there is a risk of damaging the logic board. Once the power is supplied the battery disconnect LED will switch on and once this has occurred you can remove the 5W and supply the machine with the full 29W power adapter.

Aaron Dalziel - 12/04/18

While it’s true that the internal documentation specifies this for a 2015, after frying 2 motherboards with a normal charger, I spoke with the engineers and they told me that this also applies to 2016 and 2017 macbook main logic boards. I say- It can’t hurt to try to wake them up with a 5 watt charger first! Please take 5 minutes to save your motherboard.

Noah - 04/03/21

Paso 36

Con unas pinzas, retira la almohadilla de espuma que cubre el tornillo del lado izquierdo del altavoz derecho.
Si tiras de la parte de espuma, se rasgará. Intenta colocar tus pinzas debajo de la almohadilla adhesiva que sujeta la espuma a la parte superior del tornillo.

Paso 37

Retira los dos tornillos Torx T3 de 4,1 mm que sujetan el altavoz derecho.

Paso 38

Con unas pinzas, despega con cuidado la cinta que sujeta el cable de antena derecho a la carcasa inferior.

Paso 39

Prepara un iOpener y calienta la carcasa inferior directamente debajo del altavoz derecho durante 1 o 2 minutos para ablandar el adhesivo que sujeta el altavoz.

Paso 40

Utiliza una herramienta de apertura de plástico para hacer palanca debajo del borde superior del altavoz derecho y sepáralo de la carcasa inferior.

Paso 41

Retira el altavoz derecho.

Reemplazo del altavoz derecho del MacBook Retina 2015

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