Reemplazo del altavoz derecho del MacBook Retina 2016

Paso 1

Antes de continuar, desconecta y apaga tu Macbook. Cierra la pantalla y apoyalo en una superficie suave, con la parte superior hacia abajo.
Retira los siguientes 8 tornillos que aseguran el carcasa inferior.
Dos 1.8 mm P5 tornillos pentalobulado
Cuatro 2.9 mm P5 tornillos pentalobulado
Dos 6.1 mm P5 tornillos pentalobulado
Nota la orientación de los tornillos mientras los retiras - ellos necesitaran reinstalarse con cierto ángulo.
Durante esta reparación, manten localizado cada tornillo y asegurate que va de vuelta exactamente en el mismo lugar de donde vino para evitar que se dañe el equipo.

IMPORTANT. You’re not removing the bottom, yet. This step is solely to separate the panel from its clips, permitting inside access.

Chris Leeds - 30/04/18

The screws go in tangent to the curve of the case. If you aren’t used to handling small hardware try turning the screw counterclockwise while you feel for the hole until you feel it drop, that means the threads have aligned. It takes only light finger torque when they are threaded correctly

abscate - 27/02/20

Paso 2

Usa tus dedos como palancas entre la carcasa superior e inferior, empezando por la parte de atrás de la MacBook entre las bisagras.
Levanta la carcasa inferior un poco nada más para evitar dañar los cables que conectar la carcasa inferior con la superior.
Manten un agarre firme, levanta con firmeza hasta que la carcasa inferior se separe levemente de la carcasa superior
Puedes experimentar mucha resistencia cuando levante la carcasa inferior. Si es necesario, desliza una púa de apertura o cualquier otra herramienta libre de ESD por los bordes de la carcasa inferior para liberar los 2 clips escondidos
Durante el reensamblaje, intenta re-enganchar los clips, presiona firmemente cerca de cada borde de cada lado de la carcasa inferior, (cerca de donde se inserta la púa en la tercera imágen) hasta que escuches los clips encajar en su lugar.

Paso 3

Mientras mantienes la carcasa inferior en su lugar, con cuidado voltea la MacBook para que el logo de Apple quede arriba.

Paso 4

Levanta la carcasa superior y la pantalla juntos desde el borde frontal y levanta a unos 45˚ grados aproximadamente.
Puede ayudarte apoyar la MacBook abierta en esta posición para el siguiente paso.

This displays two black pics to prop up the MacBook, but the kit only includes one black pic.

Kyle Swafford -

Paso 5

Usa la parte plana de la spudger para presionar y mantener el pequeño botón dorado 'desconectar batería'.
Si el LED de poder está encendido, continua presionando el botón hasta que el LED se apague por completo, y luego suelta el botón. Esto puede tomar unos 10 segundos.
Si el LED no se ilumina, suelta el botón después de 5 a 10 segundos. Presiona y mantén otra vez por 5 a 10 segundos, luego sueltas. Finalmente, presiona y mantén por tercera vez de 5 a 10 segundos, y suelta.
Este paso asegura que la MacBook está totalmente apagada y es seguro trabajar en ella.

cannot turn on the led after replacing the new screen, even after following the turn on instructions upper…

Laurent Pierre - 07/10/18

on reassembly, I had to plug my laptop in to reactivate the LED light

aaron_vandyke2003 - 09/04/19

Does anyone know how to turn it back on..? I plugged the laptop in and saw the LED Light, but it won’t turn on

mmcsorley - 17/04/19

After reassembly I could not restart my MacBook using the power button or after SMC reset (shift-ctrl-option-pwr). I had to connect my MacBook to its charging cable to get the battery LED to re-illuminate. After that it was all normal.

Richard Lovatt - 18/09/19

It took a few minutes on the power adapter for my computer to turn on after it was reassembled.

Luk Chl - 09/02/20

mine doesnt turn on w anything, i forgot to click the buton to disconnect :_/

cristian.campuzano - 16/06/20

Same issue as above peeps. Followed ifixit directions verbatim and wasn't getting anything after screwing everything back in. Plugged in original 45W power block and waited, after few minutes battery LED came on and a min. or two after that, was able to get screen to turn on. Hope this helps somebody else.

Brandon Elliott - 21/07/20

May I ask how to get screen to turn on. I cannot get it work..

Xiubo Zhang - 19/12/20

For those whose Mac won't turn on.

See step 16

To reconnect this cable, first line up the metal bracket over the screw holes, then "PRESS DOWN" on the middle of the bracket.

There is a connector under the bracket, which you can't see if you don't see under.

Not having it in mind, you will not PRESS DOWN the middle of the bracket and there is no connect.

hls2005 -

There needs to be mention of procedure for getting the repaired MacBook to power up again after the repair is completed.

I also am running into the issue described by others. MB will not come on again, even after being plugged into power and performing an SMC reset.

Kinda stuck….

Carlos Perez - 05/04/21

Hi, I tried everything and my MacBook will not start up after replacing the bottom case with a battery installed. I decided to put back on the old case with the battery that needs servicing and it still will not power on. I am fairly experienced taking apart laptops I was an Apple service tech for 15 years. this has me baffalled. Any hints BTY the logic board does not show any power coming from the AC charger the power LED is not lit up

eestern -

I had trouble with this as well. What worked for me is to plug in power using the stock 29W USB C power brick that originally came with this Macbook. Trying other, lower powered, power adapters did not work. Use this advice with caution as there are multiple (i.e substantiated) comments that indicate that first power up should only be with a 5W adapter! So perhaps try this strict sequence: try with a 5W adapter, then and only then try with the 29W adapter. Or even slightly better, if everything else has completely failed, only then try full power 29W adapter.

LexxOne -

How long did you wait to get it power back on? I replaced my logic board and tried to connect the power charger but it doesnt still turn on.

Herb -

The easiest error to make when working on this motherboard if applying full voltage after re-assembly. According to the big A, the motherboard on these Macbooks need to be “woken up” with a 5 watt (phone size) charger. Applying the normal 29 watts may render your system unusable.

Noah - Feb 18, 2021

Hello Noah,

It seems your remark is only valid for the 2015 and not the 2016 edition.

David - Mar 3, 2021

While it’s true that the internal documentation specifies this for a 2015, after frying 2 motherboards with a normal charger, I spoke with the engineers and they told me that this also applies to 2016 and 2017 macbook main logic boards. I say- It can’t hurt to try to wake them up with a 5 watt charger first! Please take 5 minutes to save your motherboard.

Noah - Mar 4, 2021

Noah -

I plugged in my charger and the LED came on. The computer gets warm but the screen is not turning on. The keyboards doesn’t seem to respond to recovery options. Any suggestions?

J'Trel Sapp -

Hello in muy case the power LED does not go dark (off) . Holding more than 10 sec and nothing. Somebody?

Flavio - 17/03/23

The led light doesn’t turn off on mine either. Held for 10 sec 3 times and still on. How do I turn it off now? And will it damage the computer if I work on it with the light on?

sfalba -

Also, which way should the track pad flex cable face when reinstalling it?

sfalba -

Paso 6

Cierra la MacBook y cuidadosamente voltéala boca abajo.

Paso 7

Levanta desde el borde delantero, abre la carcasa a un ángulo de 45° aproximadamente.
Ten cuidado en no dañar lo cables de cinta que siguen conectados a la carcasa inferior de la MacBook.

Paso 8

Usa las pinzas para quitar la cinta que cubre el cable del trackpad con conector ZIF.

Where can I find a replacement cable?

John Comix - 10/03/20

Just worked on one that was missing the tape from the factory, so yours may not have it either.

maccentric -

that cable got damaged, and now my macbook won't turn on anymore. Does this cable prevent the macbook from working?

ITZ CRONOMO -

Paso 9

Usa el spudger para levantar cuidadosamente la solapa en el cable del trackpad con conector ZIF.

The small retainer flips up about 90 degrees from locked position

abscate - 27/02/20

The keyboard and trackpad don't work after the repair, what can I do? They don't even show up in System Report.

bredelet -

I found that the connector was not pushed enough in. Works now.

bredelet -

Paso 10

Desconecta el cable plano del trackpad tirando levemente a través de la ranura de la estructura.

Paso 11

Con cuidado cierra la MacBook y voltea una vez más, para que el logo de Apple quede arriba.
Levantando desde el borde delantero, eleva la carcasa superior/pantalla a unos 90° grados de ángulo, y apóyalo contra algo rígido para que no tengas qué sostenerlo.
Agrega una pieza de cinta cerca del trackpad para asegurar la carcasa superior y prevenir movimiento accidentales.
Es posible abrir la MacBook por completo con lo dos lado acostado planos, pero esto puede dañar los cables flex y no es recomendable.

Paso 12

Quita el único tornillo de 2.9 mm T5 Torx asegurando el conector de la batería de la tarjeta lógica.

From my experience it’s important to carefully press and hold the small button above left of the Battery Discharge label. Use a plastic spudger or finger tip. The illuminated yellow LED to the right will go off. I believe this discharges remaining electricity from logic board protecting it during repair.

* I cannot find any documentation to support this, but I have damaged boards by not including this step.

Chris Leeds - 30/04/18

I don't know what guide your on, but step 6 of the guide to replacing the USB-C cable has you press this button (3 times even).

maccentric -

What is with the all plastic end of this cable that appears to just be glued right on top of its connector?

Does the new one just stick back right on top?

(In this photo it is the bottom side of the cable below the white water indicator sticker)

Elizabeth Erkelens - 18/04/19

Paso 13

Como una precaución adicional, puedes desconectar físicamente la batería insertando la púa aisladora de batería entre la tarjeta lógica y el conector de la batería.

What happen if you don’t disconnect the battery? I didn’t and I saw smoke coming out when I connected the pad flex cable and the computer still started up

DSANTIAGOSOY - 31/03/19

If you don’t disconnect the battery you might accidentally short something on the logic board since power is still running through everything while you’re working on it. You can complete the repair without disconnecting the battery, but you risk accidentally breaking your logic board. It’s much safer to keep the battery disconnected while you’re working.

Adam O'Camb - 03/04/19

Paso 14

Quita los dos tornillos asegurando el soporte del cable del puerto USB-C.
Tornillo 1.1 mm Phillips #00
Tornillo 3.5 mm T5 Torx

I’m at this point and the 1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw won’t budge and now I fear it could be stripped? Now what???

Y'vonne Feeney - 15/04/20

You could try to cover the tip of your screwdriver with a thin rubber glove to improve the grip on the screw while applying a little more downward force for the initial jolt. That might loosen the screw.

Tobias Isakeit - 28/04/20

The USB-C ribbon cable breaks very easily when being attached. Any particular tricks for ensuring that it won’t snap somewhere while being installed?

bfg737 - 12/08/20

With my iFixit screwdriver kit, these were Philips #000, not #00.

Paul Nishikawa - 11/10/20

This was #000 for me as well

Adam Hupp - 21/11/20

I was at the 1.1 mm and couldn't get it open with the 00. I ordered the 000 but it still won't budge. I tried the glove idea and as much pressure as I'm comfortable giving. I'm pretty sure the screw is stripped. Any ideas or advice or am I in trouble?

johnny gutierrez -

Paso 15

Usa el lado plano de la spudger para desconectar el soporte del cable del puerto USB-C aplicando palanca hacia arriba de la tarjeta lógica.
Para reconectar este cable, primero alinea el soporte metálico por encima de los huecos de los tornillos, luego presiona en el centro del soporte. Asegúrate que está alineado correctamente o puedes dañar el conector.

At re-assembling, when you reconnect this cable, pressing centre of metal plat is extremely important. You should feel tiny click when it connected properly. I encountered unrecognised external HDD and external monitor through USB-C even though charging in/out was OK, i.e failure of data transmission. I needed to re-open the back cover and pressed the metal plate again, then USB-C connection worked properly.

Aki Mochi - 13/12/20

After this step, I flipped the Macbook over once more and opened it up 90 degrees, supported on the back. Proceeded directly to step 25. Seems safer, those fragile connectors and flimsy cables give me heebie jeebies.

maccentric -

Paso 16

Usa el spudger para abrir la solapa que retiene el conector ZIF del Audio Jack

Paso 17

Desconecta el cable plano de la tarjeta del Jack de Audio tirando su parte plana trasera del conector ZIF.
Durante el rearmado, orienta el cable plano para que el lado con la linea blanca este de cara a ti, como se muestra.
En este punto es posible abrir la MacBook por completo y acostarla de forma plana en una mesa sin causar ningún daño al cable flex

Make sure at reassembly that you insert the ribbon cable in to the jack board fully. It seems to take an extra push. The white line should disappear when it is seated properly. I didn’t get it in all the way by a fraction of a mm and had no sound (internal speakers weren’t even recognized). Went back and seated the cable fully and sound was back.

Timothy Dinkelman - 10/12/19

I had that same problem, too.

lyonmissions -

Had the same problem, (no audio after reassembly) it did have the startup chime though.
after re-seating the ribbon cable, it worked for a few days, but then nothing after waking up.
not even the startup chime.
Any body got pointers on how to check if i broke the cable or the board? (looks fine...)

Christian Stanner -

Paso 18

Usa unas pinzas para despegar la cinta que cubre el conector del cable de la pantalla.

I won’t have my daughter’s MacBook with its banana encrusted USB-C port until she returns home during spring break — just doing some homework before then. But if the case can lie flat after the audio board ZIF cable is detached, why do you need to detach the display cable connector (Steps 19-24)? It seems that you could jump straight to Step 25 to replace the USB-C port and avoid those steps.

John Conklin - 24/02/20

Hi John, disconnecting the display cable is not necessary, but is recommended to avoid accidental damage to the cable during the rest of the procedure. If you feel confident in the safety of the cable then you can skip ahead. Good luck with the repair!

Adam O'Camb - 26/02/20

I skipped ahead to step 25 successfully by making a secure stand for the display and being careful to not strain cables. If you are decently motor skilled this saves you 15 minutes or so. Not recommended if you live with cats who love little screws to chase

abscate - 27/02/20

Paso 19

Es posible que la solapa metálica de retención del conector del cable de la pantalla se abra y quede pegada a la cinta.
Si es así, usa el extremo plano de una pinza para sujetar la solapa de retención mientras despegas la cinta con las pinzas.

Paso 20

Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para abrir la solapa de retención del conector del cable de la pantalla.
Trata de mantenerla libre de la cinta adhesiva, o puede volver a adherirse y dificultar la extracción del cable.

I found it helpful to stick one of the triangular picks in between the table and the retaining flap to keep them separated.

Kofi Kantanka -

Paso 21

Desliza con cuidado el extremo plano de un spudger por debajo del cable de la pantalla para separar el adhesivo que lo sujeta a la caja inferior.
Ten cuidado de no dañar el cable. Si el adhesivo es muy fuerte, calienta lacaja directamente debajo del cable con un iOpener para ablandar el adhesivo y vuelve a intentarlo.

Great, another new fragile display cable to deal with. Thanks Apple.

maccentric - 13/05/20

Paso 22

Desconecta el cable de la pantalla tirando suavemente de él para sacarlo de su conector.
Cierra inmediatamente la solapa de retención.
La solapa debe permanecer cerrada cuando se vuelva a insertar el cable durante el montaje. Alinea el cable con los contactos dorados hacia abajo y deslícelo suavemente en el conector cerrado. Ten cuidado de no aplastar o dañar el cable. Cuando esté completamente insertado, las hendiduras de los lados no deben ser visibles.

I’m pretty sure I understand the instructions here, but I had to think about it a little longer because “… must remain closed when the cable is reinserted during reassembly …” was not clear to me right away. The retaining flap I discovered, is super delicate, and hence my paranoia, so I wanted to point this out in case anyone else felt like me: ''''Is it correct to assume that your instructions could be interpreted as:

“After disconnecting the cable, close the retaining flap for now to avoid damaging it. When reinstalling the cable, flip up the retaining flap once again, realign and slide the cable with gold contacts facing down.”

I bent the USB-C corner of the lower case from a short drop onto laminate flooring, so in I went to shape it so the edge wouldn’t snag or scratch things. I am typing on my MacBook that received the body work.

Thank you for your guidance!

John Torquido - 30/07/18

For @seriouslyjohn and anyone else who might be wondering: “the flap must remain closed when the cable is reinserted” means keep it closed. Do not reopen the flap to insert the cable; just insert it carefully while leaving the flap closed. I know it probably runs counter to the procedure you’re used to, but Apple’s documentation is very clear on this, and I have to think it’s for a reason. My advice is to follow the instructions as written and don’t try to reinterpret them ;) Congrats on a successful repair!

Jeff Suovanen - 31/07/18

Oops! I most definitely did NOT reinsert the cable into a closed connector. We can only wonder why Apple instructed this step to be counter-intuitive. I’ll pay closer attention to any weirdness that may arise, but the MacBook has been traveling and performing as it should; I’m going to avoid reopening the case, as easy as it is, until I have a good reason to do so. Thank you for replying and updating the guide!

John Torquido - 31/07/18

I would argue that you should NOT close the retaining flap. I followed the directions to the letter, and when I started up the MacBook, the display did not register since the I wasn’t able to reseed the cable fully without worrying about tearing the cable. I did hear the computer charging and saw that the keyboard lit up, so I knew the MacBook was working besides the display. I looked up another video on Youtube that left the retaining flap open when reinstalling, so I took apart the Macbook again and tried it that way, and IT WORKED! The cable wasn’t fully reseated with the retainer open and I’m not sure if that was my fault or not, but with the retainer flap open, it was easier to see that. My 2 cents. Good luck everyone!

Sulmo Kim - 11/09/20

I initially tried inserting the cable with the retaining flap closed (as described), however after completing reassembly the MacBook could be heard to start but without any display action (no backlight, no graphics - also tried resetting the SMC). Being suspicious of this step based on the comments above, I tried re-inserting the cable with the retaining flap open before subsequently closing the flap. It may have just been my perception but insertion with the retaining flap open certainly appeared to result in a more robust mating of cable and connector. After reassembly and reset of the SMC I at least saw backlight action although no graphics still. A subsequent boot into to diagnostics mode resulted in the graphics coming to life.

Maybe my re-insertion while the retaining flap was closed was not quite correct (although I was certainly trying to be careful), but my experience was that success was achieved making the cable insertion while the retaining flap was open.

Paul Richards -

It is kind of nice that I don't have to worry about that. The screen cable is literally plug & play. Super easy.

lyonmissions -

Paso 23

Separa el conjunto de la caja superior del conjunto de la caja inferior.

Paso 24

Utiliza unas pinzas para despegar la cinta que cubre los dos conectores ZIF, uno para el cable del altavoz derecho y otro para el cable de la placa de audio.

Removing the logicboard must be safer way, but battery replacement can be accomplished if you skip here to step 32, and omit 36.

Aki Mochi - 12/12/20

I'm not sure removing the logic board is safer, you have many more opportunities to break something. I left it connected but removed the screws so I could maneuver the battery underneath. Faster and safer imo.

maccentric -

Paso 25

Utiliza la punta de un spudger para levantar las dos solapas de retención del conector ZIF.

Paso 26

Tira con cuidado hacia atrás de los dos trozos de cinta que acabas de despegar para desconectar los dos cables de cinta.

Paso 27

Utiliza la punta de un spudger para despegar la almohadilla de espuma que cubre los dos conectores de la antena.

Paso 28

Utiliza unas pinzas para desconectar el primer conector de la antena levantándolo directamente de su zócalo.
Los conectores de antena y las tomas son extremadamente frágiles. Ten mucho cuidado de levantar sólo el conector, y no el propio zócalo. No levantes por debajo del cable, ni ejerzas ninguna tensión innecesaria sobre él.

The supplied tweezer is no good. You need one with grooves as shown in the picture. When re-inserting the antenna connectors, make sure that they are seated properly before pushing down. If you have magnifying equipment, use that to get visual confirmation. I used tactile feedback from my fingers to discern proper alignment. Try not to force it.

Ki Park - 31/12/20

I used the tweezers provided by iFixit. I struggled with both connectors and finally managed to disconnect both, but when I came back to reconnect them, I realized that both connectors on the logic board were loose. Long story short, it turns out that my little exciting adventure changing the battery cost me $530 to send it for repair at Apple Care. I am quite good at troubleshooting Mac and used to work for Apple for many years. This one step is more dangerous than it seems, because you can end up like me, without wifi on your mac. Honestly, for those who think they can do it, think twice. You can thank me later…

Arthur Liegeois - 28/01/21

For me this step was the only point where I had a bit of trouble. The supplied tweezers were not the best for disconnecting the antenna connectors as Ki Park points out already. In my case the outer ring of one of the connectors on the logic board bended slightly. It bended back in place during assembly and the wifi works as normal again after the repair. It is very tricky though, really be careful in this step and use other tools as necessary.

Arie Machgeels van Ziel -

BY FAR THE MOST DANGEROUS PART OF THE JOB!. I broked one connector and spent an hour with high powered magnifiers to try a repair. Wasted an hour on this. Id suggest leaving the logic board in place if possible

Crisis Guy -

I had no problem with this. The key is to come toward the connectors from the opposite direction from that shown in the photo. Easier to grip the connector.

david -

I broke one. Looking back, it may have been safer to detach the motherboard from the case before disconnecting the antenna, as it allows more angles to access them. 😢

bredelet -

F. I broke one

Ried Cartwright -

I actually put one of the tweezer tines under the connector and used it as a lever gently to pop the antenna connector off the housing. Worked well, but I had to be super careful not to break anything.

Woodward Price -

These connectors are incredibly finicky to reinstall. Precise alignment is critical. You can sort of get a sense of when the connectors are properly aligned by trying to slide them side to side with your finger, but mostly it's a case of trial and error. Don't apply excessive force because you risk damaging the edges of the connectors. When properly aligned they don't exactly click, but you do feel them go in.

nigel -

DO NOT REMOVE THESE. As others have stated these are fragile and finicky to remove and reinstall. Instead, leave them intact and lift up the logic board at a 70 to 80% angle. Use a piece of tape secured to the bottom edge of the computer and the top edge of the logic board to hold it up and out of the way. If you are diligent, you can remove the batteries without touching or messing with the logic board. Use caution, don't get too overzealous, take your time.

Steven Gibson -

Paso 29

Utiliza unas pinzas para desconectar el segundo conector de la antena levantándolo directamente de su zócalo.
Los conectores de antena y las tomas son extremadamente frágiles. Ten mucho cuidado de levantar sólo el conector, y no el propio zócalo. No levantes por debajo del cable, ni ejerzas ninguna tensión innecesaria sobre él.

Broke a connector. Now what?

chrisadams - 03/05/20

BEWARE - there are no instructions on how to reassemble this. It goes to step 52 - battery installed and that is it. Easy to pull out, almost impossible to put back in afterwards. So STUDY this to get an idea of how to reattach.

Kyle Swafford -

Paso 30

Utiliza una pinza para desconectar el conector del cable del altavoz izquierdo haciendo palanca hacia arriba desde la placa lógica.

Reassembling NOTE. The left speaker cable needs to be below the logic board when screwing in the right screw. Otherwise you will have to backtrack.

Kyle Swafford -

Paso 31

Utiliza un spudger para levantar la solapa de sujeción del conector ZIF del cable del trackpad.

Paso 32

Desconecta el cable del trackpad de la placa lógica tirando suavemente de él para sacarlo de su conector.

Once the logic board has been replaced, when following these instructions in the reverse order it should be pointed out that the all the flaps are flipped down. A distracted person might try to force in the flat connector before realising that he has to flip up the flap of the new logic board.

Davide Dante - 23/09/19

Paso 33

Retira el único tornillo T5 Torx de 3,5 mm que sujeta la placa lógica a la carcasa inferior.

Paso 34

Levanta el borde delantero de la placa lógica.
Manipula la placa lógica sólo por sus bordes.
Levanta y separa la cinta EMI que asegura la placa lógica a la carcasa inferior.
Si calientas la cinta con un secador de pelo o un iOpener, será más fácil despegarla.
Vuelve a colocar la cinta de forma segura durante el montaje.

“Reattach the tape securely during reassembly.”

In my case the tape did not stick properly to the lower case anymore and also came a bit loose from the logic board. Nonetheless my macbook works fine after the repair, so I'm not sure how important the EMI tape is. If I experience problems in the future I might open the macbook up again and check the tape and perhaps reattach it better with some new glue. There is probably special glue needed, so I'll look into that when it becomes an issue.

Arie Machgeels van Ziel -

Paso 35

Retira la placa lógica.

If you are replacing the logic board once the machine has been rebuild the 2015 model has to have a 5W power adapter plugged into the machine first before the full 29W power supply otherwise there is a risk of damaging the logic board. Once the power is supplied the battery disconnect LED will switch on and once this has occurred you can remove the 5W and supply the machine with the full 29W power adapter.

Aaron Dalziel - 12/04/18

While it’s true that the internal documentation specifies this for a 2015, after frying 2 motherboards with a normal charger, I spoke with the engineers and they told me that this also applies to 2016 and 2017 macbook main logic boards. I say- It can’t hurt to try to wake them up with a 5 watt charger first! Please take 5 minutes to save your motherboard.

Noah - 04/03/21

Paso 36

Con unas pinzas, retira la almohadilla de espuma que cubre el tornillo del lado izquierdo del altavoz derecho.
Si tiras de la parte de espuma, se rasgará. Intenta colocar tus pinzas debajo de la almohadilla adhesiva que sujeta la espuma a la parte superior del tornillo.

Paso 37

Retira los dos tornillos Torx T3 de 4,1 mm que sujetan el altavoz derecho.

Paso 38

Con unas pinzas, despega con cuidado la cinta que sujeta el cable de antena derecho a la carcasa inferior.

Paso 39

Prepara un iOpener y calienta la carcasa inferior directamente debajo del altavoz derecho durante 1 o 2 minutos para ablandar el adhesivo que sujeta el altavoz.

Paso 40

Utiliza una herramienta de apertura de plástico para hacer palanca debajo del borde superior del altavoz derecho y sepáralo de la carcasa inferior.

Paso 41

Retira el altavoz derecho.

Reemplazo del altavoz derecho del MacBook Retina 2016

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