Reemplazo del altavoz izquierdo del iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 3068

Paso 1

Con la bisagra libre para moverse, el iMac estará desequilibrado y será difícil de trabajar. Las reparaciones son rápidas y fáciles con una cuña iMac, pero se pueden completar sin una.
Si estás usando la cuña de servicio iFixit, sigue estas instrucciones de ensamble para armarlo.
Antes de comenzar el trabajo en su iMac: Desenchufe la computadora y mantenga presionado el botón de encendido durante diez segundos para vaciar los condensadores de alimentación de energía.
Sea muy cuidadoso de no tocar los cables del condensador ni las juntas de soldadura expuestas en la parte posterior de la fuente de alimentación. Solo toque la tabla por los bordes.

The wedge is an extremely tight fit for this model. I was worried that the amount of force needed to use it as shown might damage the stand, so I used it with the long side down instead. It worked fine that way and didn’t need anywhere near as much force to insert.

roberttrevellyan - 19/09/17

Here’s a good YouTube vid on upgrading the RAM: Can a Normal Person Upgrade the RAM in the 2017 21.5" iMac?

Dan - 12/02/18

Here are a couple tips from me:

1) Expose the adhesive to extreme temperatures. I did this by transporting my iMac in my car, screen-down on a piece of cardboard on a cold February morning (in Chicago). When I went to pick up the iMac, the screen practically fell off the chassis. I would have been distraught by this if I hadn’t already planned this replacement. So it was a happy accident.

2) Remember to expell the residual power from the power supply by pushing the power button while the iMac is unplugged. This does NOT guarantee it’s safe to touch, but when I accidentally brushed the solder and exposed capacitors, I didn’t get shocked.

jerrid_foiles - 31/03/19

Instead of using the wedge, I placed the iMac faced up with the top side (web cam) facing me while I ran the pizza roller around. It worked out great!

Sam Fung - 06/06/19

“All iMacs also come with a traditional hard drive” mine doesn’t!! it’s HDD bay is completely empty, no SATA cable or anything. I guess I’ll have to upgrade the PCIe SSD instead.

Chris Hughes - 10/11/19

There is no replacement glass for this model, it is part of the LCD and impossible to remove or replace- the entire LCD has to be replaced unfortunately if the glass is cracked or damaged. You will have to Google search for a replacement. Also be careful with some of the lock tight tork screws as I broke one of my screw mounts taking one out.

Phil Tesone - 18/01/21

I used this service wedge but also found it a very tight fit. The same stabilization can be achieved by using a big rolled up towel.

Ernst -

While this is a good instruction guide, I recommend to also look at OWC’s instruction video about drive installation, before starting the exercise. Those install videos are very detailed and useful.

Ernst -

Main advice: TAKE YOUR TIME with the pizza roller.

Make several passes, until you really feel like there's no more sticker in the way. Stay away from the camera though (approx. 1inch / 2.5cm on both sides). This will reduce the work left with the plastic card. Adhesive is really on the edge of the screen so there is absolutely no need to go any further than the recommended 1cm / 3/8inch depth.

Where are the sensitive parts?

Facing your iMac, imagine you're looking at a watch. There are antennas on 1, 2 and 4 o'clock. Do not insert any metal piece there (nor anywhere else, btw). Other than that AND the screen cables underneath the camera, not much danger.

Froggy Manny - 23/03/23

Paso 2

Comenzando a la izquierda de la pantalla, cerca del botón de encendido, inserte la herramienta de apertura iMac en el espacio entre el panel de vidrio y la carcasa trasera.
El centro de la herramienta de apertura iMac evitará que empuje demasiado la rueda. Si usa una herramienta diferente, inserte no más de 3/8 "en la pantalla. De lo contrario, corre el riesgo de cortar los cables de la antena y causar daños graves.

Don’t get too worried about starting exactly where the picture says. The glue is stronger in some parts so just start wherever is easier and then work slowly and patiently around in the direction shown.

Richard Cook - 15/02/19

As this guide doesn’t cover replacing the adhesive strips, I found referring to the following was useful (noting that it’s not for the same model of iMac, so the modification they mention wasn’t necessary): Reemplazo de tiras adhesivas de la pantalla de iMac Intel 21.5"

Alan Digby - 24/06/20

It is very easy to crack the glass in front of the LCD during this step. I used the guitar pick, maybe it was too thick… crack is just on the frame but anyway it is disappointing :(

Nikolay - 30/06/20

This part of the exercise should be done with extreme patience. I took my sweet time with the opening tool, rolling it through the entire panel and enclosure gap over and over again, until I was very sure no parts were sticking together anymore. And when I thought I was I done, I decided to do it over again.

Ernst -

You can "warm up" the adhesive before try to cut it with the tool using a hair dryer. Heat the edges for about a minute, keep moving it so you don't cause stress in the glass. Also the above note.. use the tool and then the cards. Do not use a guitar pick or other objects as the thickness will cause you to break the front glass, which is a bonded part of the display (expensive).

Carl Schultz -

Paso 3

Use la herramienta parecido a un cortador de pizza: gírelo a lo largo de la abertura para cortar el adhesivo de espuma por el centro.
Asegúrese de empujar siempre con la manija detrás de la rueda de corte. Si tira, la rueda podría salirse del mango.
Mueva la herramienta hacia arriba a lo largo del lado izquierdo de la pantalla.

Erreur de traduction: "de bas en haut" et non de" haut en bas" sur le côté gauche de l'écran

Moreau - 15/04/17

If re-opening a screen that was opened and re-attached using iFixit’s adhesive strips, I would strongly recommend heating it first with an iOpener, heat gun or hair dryer. 20 minutes after attaching with the iFixit adhesive I tried to open it again with the pizza slicer to fix something and cracked the screen on the left-hand side.

plasticpool - 08/12/20

Paso 4

Siga moviendo la herramienta hacia arriba alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda

Ne pincez pas l’écran avec l’autre main. Vous exercez une pression inutile sur le verre et empêchez la roulette de couper le joint.

phfoglia -

Paso 5

Corte el adhesivo a lo largo de la esquina superior izquierda de la pantalla.

Paso 6

Continúa por la parte superior de la pantalla.
Es posible que desee mover la herramienta hacia adelante y hacia atrás a través de lo que ya ha cortado varias veces, para asegurarse de retirar la mayor cantidad de adhesivo como sea posible.

In this step can I cut along the display without make any damage to the front camera?

arisnordico - 22/01/15

Hi! Actually - there is no need to cut the tape around the camera area - there is no tape to cut at all! And so, the way go is easy - just pass 10 mm to the left and to the right from camera and start cutting!

P.S. Just did the whole procedure to replace a RAM and to add SSD on PSIe an hour ago! Seems to be different reading the instructions... you know - 2/10 and so on. But it's really not that hard, trust me. I'll give it 5/10.

P.P.S. By the way there is one trick to pass the difficult steps. Any action which requires pulling smth (motherboard, speaker, power supply unit) from the narrow crack (or should i say - slit?) at the bottom of your Imac is really not so easy.

And the trick is to first remove a thin metal stripe with some kind of insulation on it which held by 5 small (very small!!) screws at the bottom of your Imac. After you done it - it's easy to pull everything! Pay attention to the fact that one of this 5 screws at the center are more shortly than others.

dv1977 - 24/01/15

I did all steps like this manuell but now the Display wont work only some colered strips are to see! Whats happend??

Can anybody help me ? Maybe the connector cable is broken?

djfanta - 28/05/15

Check both connectors, probably one of them not seated well

pzhivulin - 12/06/15

You can add a SATA SSD if you already have a PCIe SSD Factory?

kaserlik - 30/05/15

If you're changing cracked EMC 2638 display to new assembly, there's two more steps:

Step 24: Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the display assembly.

Step 25: Use the tip of a spudger to unplug bracket of the thermal sensor small cable near display data cable.

Carefully remove scotch tape covering thermal sensor. Using iSesamo or flat tip of the spudger carefully peel the thermal sensor away.

pzhivulin - 12/06/15

omg - forgot to switch the termal sensor from the old display...

now fan runs like crazy...

Andrei Balotescu - 05/02/16

The key thing is to never put any force on the opening tool when working through the tape. Just roll it back and forth with ease.

Ernst -

Paso 7

Empuje la herramienta alrededor de la esquina superior derecha de la pantalla.

Paso 8

Mueva la herramienta hacia abajo a lo largo del lado derecho de la pantalla.

Paso 9

Finalice empujando la herramienta de apertura hacia la parte inferior del lado derecho de la pantalla.
En este punto, se recomienda volver a pasar la herramienta en toda la pantalla para asegurarse de cortar la mayor cantidad de adhesivo posible.

Yes, do it many times to loosen the adhesive.

Noah Ralston - 19/07/18

Would be good data to show the 3 areas (wifi antennas where the "tape" is larger and covers them. The rest of the "tape" is 1.4" and easy. Also after removing the display, be sure to remove the old "tape" from both the display and the rubber parts of the case. Use the spudger to start an end and it should pull off easily. Careful on the baackside of the display as you can scratch off the black paint/covering.

Carl Schultz -

Paso 10

Mientras que la herramienta de apertura corta la mayor parte del adhesivo, la pantalla aún estará ligeramente adherida a la caja. Se necesitará una tarjeta de plástico para liberar el último adhesivo.
Coloque el iMac boca arriba en una mesa.
Comenzando desde la esquina superior derecha del iMac, coloque una tarjeta de plástico entre la pantalla y el marco.
Tenga cuidado de NO insertar la tarjeta de plástico más de 3/8 ", o puede dañar los componentes internos.

this step is extremely important NOT to stick in the cards too far….. doing so, you risk a 600 euro replacement as I experienced………

Edgar Broekema - 18/11/17

I drew a 3/8” line on my cards with a marker first.

Max Romano - 27/09/20

I’m reading this on the EU store, please change all measurements to cm/mm.

Morgana Devina - 30/10/20

@ifixit The next batch of cards you create should have a line printed on the card 3/8” in from the edges. Would make a nice reference.

Richard Giratd -

Here’s where OWC provides glass removal suction cups, which is a better solution than plastic cards.

The suction cups help to easily lift the glass panel, without risking the damaging of any internal wiring that the plastic cards could cause.

Ernst -

Better to remove stand wedge at this point? Can’t see from pics

derekrobinson -

Paso 11

Gire suavemente la tarjeta de plástico hacia los lados para crear un espacio entre la pantalla y el marco.
Muévase despacio y tenga cuidado de no estresar demasiado el cristal de la pantalla; solo necesita hacer un espacio de aproximadamente 1/4 ".

This part must be done very carefully or you can damage the flat cable from display, despite it was under a iron cover.

Cassio Machado - 17/09/16

Paso 12

Deslice la tarjeta hacia el centro de la pantalla para cortar el resto del adhesivo a lo largo de la esquina superior derecha del iMac.
Asegúrese de detenerse antes de la cámara iSight, o puede dañarla.

You don't need to do it like this, simply open the iMac bendidng the LCD completely and use the pizza cutter to remove the adhesive.

Felix - 31/05/20

Using glass removal suction cups will avoid running this risk of damaging the camera (or any wiring).

Ernst -

Paso 13

Vuelva a acuñar la tarjeta de plástico en la esquina superior derecha y déjela allí para evitar que el adhesivo se mueva.

Paso 14

Inserta una segunda tarjeta de plástico en el espacio entre la pantalla y el marco cerca de la esquina superior izquierda del iMac.

Paso 15

Gire suavemente la tarjeta hacia arriba, aumentando ligeramente el espacio entre la pantalla y el marco.
Al igual que con el otro lado, gírelo lentamente para permitir que el tiempo del adhesivo se separe, y tenga cuidado de no sobre tensar el vidrio de la pantalla.

Paso 16

Deslice la tarjeta de plástico hacia el centro, deteniéndose de nuevo justo antes de la cámara iSight.

Paso 17

Cuña la tarjeta de plástico en la esquina superior izquierda.

Paso 18

Con ambas tarjetas de plástico insertadas como se muestra cerca de las esquinas, gire suavemente las tarjetas hacia los lados para aumentar el espacio entre la pantalla y la carcasa.
Si hay secciones que parecen adherirse y no se separan, deje de girar y use una de las tarjetas para cortar el adhesivo restante.
Comience a levantar la parte superior de la pantalla desde el marco.
Solo levante la pantalla unas pulgadas: los datos de la pantalla y los cables de alimentación todavía están conectados a la placa lógica.

Paso 19

Levanta la pantalla lo suficiente para tener un acceso fácil al conector, pero no demasiado, ya que estirarías los cables y forzarías sus conexiones (levántalo menos de 20 cm.)
Sostén la pantalla con una mano, mientras usas la otra para desconectar el cable de energía de la pantalla.

It was difficult to remove this connection. I ended up having to gently pull-up vertically a little on the wire side to unsnap it about 1mm and then horizontally wiggle it out.

delacrj2 - 22/12/17

I had a difficult time removing this connection. I had to lift the wire-side about 1mm before it unsnapped and then carefully wiggle it out horizontally.

delacrj2 - 22/12/17

Can this cable be replaced? I am worried mine is damaged. I have no display after the screen fell and stressed the display flex cables following an SSD upgrade.

Jeremy Brainard - 19/04/19

This step should be done with extreme caution and care, as this step 19 is not described in great detail (sorry, author).

The first (most outward) cable will slide out by gently pulling it by its tabs. The second (inner) cable is more tricky, as the locking lever must be moved backward first, before gently pulling backward on the cable connector. The angled tweezers are useful here, to help lift that locking lever, because fingers are too big for this.

Ernst -

be VERY careful and SLOW...take your time. These displays crack VERY easily when removing and they'll spider web on you. I've done probably 20 or so of these and cracked 3 being super careful.....ugh.

Faslane -

I found the best way to unplug this display power cable was to use my right hand, and the fingernails of my index finger and thumb to grab the ends of the tabs on either side of the connector, squeeze, and pull the connector out gently.

Phil McInnis -

Paso 20

Continúa sosteniendo la pantalla con una mano, mientras muevas hacia arriba el soporte de metal en el cable de datos de la pantalla.
Con cuidado tira el cable de datos de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
Asegúrate de quitar el conector del cable hacia arriba, manteniéndolo paralelo a la placa base, para evitar dañarlo.

Cannot seem to find a replacement cable for this, as I suspect mine is damaged. Can’t even find a part number. Anyone know what it might be?

Jeremy Brainard - 19/04/19

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08TTL...

That's the part I ordered for mine and it seems to work ok. I did make a point of contacting the seller and advising them of my requirement and they ensured I got the right part and it matches the description of the link. Bear in mind I bear no responsibility if yours does not work since I am just sharing what I did and what I ordered. Thanks.

Jim Stanford -

I also need that cable.

cameronjpu - 24/03/20

It's a little difficult to tell... but looking at the connection to the logic board on the video data cable, are the pins faced up or down?

On the display, same question since it appears you have to "twist" the cable during the reconnection step.

Jim Stanford - 09/05/22

For this particular cable, take a good look before pulling on anything. Plug is locked on its socket with a bracket. You can lift this bracket by holding the small, flat black plastic handle that is attached to it. If you're struggling to grab it, use the end of the pizza roller handle to lift it, or the tweezers. Cable then comes off by pulling parallel to the main board.

Froggy Manny -

Paso 21

Levanta el display a una posición casi vertical.
En este punto aún hay una franja de adhesivo a lo largo del inferior del display que sostendrá el display a el marco como una bisagra. Puedes aflojar este adhesivo moviendo el display hacia arriba y abajo algunas veces.

The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

Andrew Stephens - 10/08/18

Paso 22

Ten cuidado de no tocar los cables del capacitor o cualquier punto de soldadura expuesto en la parte trasera de la fuente de alimentación (encerrada en rojo).
Sujeta la pequeña pestaña en el final de una de las franjas de adhesivo de los bordes inferiores y jala el adhesivo hacia el superior de la iMac para removerlo.
Repite este paso con la otra franja de adhesivo y remuévela.
Si la franja de adhesivo se rompe antes de ser removida, usa una tarjeta de plástico para cortar a través delo adhesivo restante.

Vorsicht: Wenn man den Bildschirm einfach versucht vom Kleber wegzureissen, besteht die sehr grosse Gefahr, dass danach der Bildschirm tatsächlich defekt ist, was daran zu erkennen ist, dass dieser bei der Inbetriebnahme schwarze Diagonale Striche oder Lücken enthält. Dann muss der ganze Bildschirm ersetzt werden, was dann recht teuer wird!

Caution: If you simply try to tear the screen away from the adhesive, there is a very high risk that the screen will actually be defective, which can be seen from the fact that it contains black diagonal lines or gaps during commissioning. Then the whole screen has to be replaced, which then becomes quite expensive!

Kurt -

Paso 23

Levanta el display del marco y remuévelo de la iMac.
´Puede que sea necesario levantar lentamente de un lado para despegar el adhesivo restante.
Ten mucho cuidado controlando el display --es grande, pesado y hecho de cristal.
Después que el adhesivo sea cortado, no puede ser usado para re-sellar el display en su lugar. Sigue esta guía para reemplazar las franjas de adhesivo que aseguran el display al gabinete trasero.

Paso 24

Remueve los siguientes cinco tornillos Philips que mantienen la ménsula de soporte inferior en su lugar:
Cuatro tornillos de 3.2 mm
Un tornillo de 1.7 mm
En al menos algunas máquinas con EMC 2544, todos los tornillos son del mismo tamaño.
Podrías necesitar quitar el adhesivo de la pantalla que pasa por el borde inferior del marco del iMac para acceder a los tornillos.

I used the CR-V 4.0 standard screwdriver head to help peel away the adhesive lining. My fingers were too big to grab it, and my fingernails too short to get the removal started. This 4 screw head worked perfectly.

airshack - 07/02/20

Paso 25

Remueve la ménsula de soporte inferior del marco del iMac.

Of all the parts of this entire procedure, replacing this one piece is the hardest part! The screws are tiny and they just don’t seem to want to grab the support piece. Also it seems to perform no function which is also annoying.

John M - 25/01/19

I left mine out. LOL

jerrid_foiles - 04/05/19

Line up the screw holes and press on the bracket from the back to help the screws grab. If your fingers are too big, press with the flat side of your spudger. As long as there’s no gap between the bracket and the iMac’s frame, the screws should grab easily.

Jeff Suovanen - 07/05/19

I put it in at a slight angle lining up the right hand side holes, screwed in the two screws and gently pressed my finger behind it on the rest

jmorphett5 - 30/04/20

If you only want to replace the HD and RAM, take a big shortcut and leave the logic board in, as well as all the parts needed to remove it (speaker, power supply etc). Once the display is removed, just take out the fan and the top two logic board screw. There is than sufficient space to gently remove and insert the two ram modules. HD can easily be replaced with an SSD by just removing the HD mounting brackets...

diddl14 -

Paso 26

Tira con cuidado del conector del cable del ventilador para sacarlo de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

Paso 27

Retira los tres tornillos Torx T10 de 10 mm que sujetan el ventilador a la carcasa trasera.
El tornillo superior tiene un separador de goma adherido a su cabeza para sostener la pantalla; déjalo en su lugar.

Paso 28

Retira el ventilador del iMac.

Paso 29

Tira con cuidado del cable del altavoz izquierdo para sacarlo de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

Paso 30

Desconecta el cable del altavoz izquierdo tirando de él hacia arriba para sacarlo del clip de retención en la parte posterior de la carcasa trasera.

Paso 31

Usa un spudger para desconectar el conector del botón de encendido de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
Ten cuidado de no tocar las juntas de soldadura en la parte posterior de la fuente de alimentación. Los condensadores pueden estar lo suficientemente cargados como para darte una descarga eléctrica peligrosa.

Paso 32

Retira los dos tornillos T10 de 10,0 mm que sujetan el altavoz izquierdo a la carcasa trasera.
Las arandelas de goma mantienen los tornillos ajustados en el altavoz incluso cuando están flojos. Puedes usar pinzas o una uña para quitar los tornillos, o simplemente dejarlos con el ensamblaje del altavoz.