Reemplazo del conjunto de la carcasa superior del MacBook Retina 2017

Paso 1

Antes de comenzar, debes desactivar la función de arranque automático de tu Mac. Auto Boot se enciende en tu Mac cuando abres la tapa y puede activarse accidentalmente durante el desmontaje. Usa esta guía o sigue las instrucciones abreviadas a continuación para deshabilitar el inicio automático. Este comando podría no funcionar en todas las Macs
Enciende tu Mac y ejecuta Terminal.
Copia y pega el siguiente comando (o escríbelo exactamente) en la Terminal:
sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
Presiona [return]. Si se te solicita, introduce tu contraseña de administrador y vuelve a pulsar [return]. Nota: La tecla de retorno también puede estar etiquetada como ⏎ o "enter".
Ahora puedes apagar con seguridad su Mac y abrir la carcasa inferior, sin que se encienda accidentalmente.
Cuando hayas finalizado la reparación y se haya vuelto a ensamblar su Mac, vuelve a habilitar el inicio automático con el siguiente comando:
sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

Macrepair SF - 02/07/19

@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen - 03/07/19

Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.

Dan -

This did not work when running High Sierra.

Kyle B - 22/10/19

Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

Cool_Breeze - 19/11/19

I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

Brian - 07/02/20

Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

Nursat b - 26/08/20

BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

Jason Sherron - 09/10/20

This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

Patrick Machacek - 27/11/20

Not able to do that with damaged screen

richardjgreen - 15/12/20

If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot

Roberto Sanchez Bustos -

Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

Adrian Vizik - 16/01/21

Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

Roberto Enrieu - 22/01/21

running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

result: `AutoBoot %00`

Marek Polák - 01/02/21

Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's: nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot' to display the current state, the default is true - and then to change it, sudo nvram auto-boot=false which turns it off.

Ed Mechem - 24/06/22

This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

Grant Ormsby - 11/03/21

It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

tommy404 - 28/04/21

I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

hatuxka -

BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!

I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

bcardanha -

When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”

johann beda -

When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a pwd (print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.

Ed Mechem - 24/06/22

I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

Mircea Comanici -

After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

Ed Mease -

This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

G Sena -

Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?

maël muzelet -

Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"

Claire Miesch -

Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.

Tom Markham -

If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.

arichard2401 -

Paso 2

Antes de continuar, desconecta y apaga tu Macbook. Cierra la pantalla y apoyalo en una superficie suave, con la parte superior hacia abajo.
Retira los siguientes 8 tornillos que aseguran el carcasa inferior.
Dos 1.8 mm P5 tornillos pentalobulado
Cuatro 2.9 mm P5 tornillos pentalobulado
Dos 6.1 mm P5 tornillos pentalobulado
Nota la orientación de los tornillos mientras los retiras - ellos necesitaran reinstalarse con cierto ángulo.
Durante esta reparación, manten localizado cada tornillo y asegurate que va de vuelta exactamente en el mismo lugar de donde vino para evitar que se dañe el equipo.

IMPORTANT. You’re not removing the bottom, yet. This step is solely to separate the panel from its clips, permitting inside access.

Chris Leeds - 30/04/18

The screws go in tangent to the curve of the case. If you aren’t used to handling small hardware try turning the screw counterclockwise while you feel for the hole until you feel it drop, that means the threads have aligned. It takes only light finger torque when they are threaded correctly

abscate - 27/02/20

Paso 3

Usa tus dedos como palancas entre la carcasa superior e inferior, empezando por la parte de atrás de la MacBook entre las bisagras.
Levanta la carcasa inferior un poco nada más para evitar dañar los cables que conectar la carcasa inferior con la superior.
Manten un agarre firme, levanta con firmeza hasta que la carcasa inferior se separe levemente de la carcasa superior
Puedes experimentar mucha resistencia cuando levante la carcasa inferior. Si es necesario, desliza una púa de apertura o cualquier otra herramienta libre de ESD por los bordes de la carcasa inferior para liberar los 2 clips escondidos
Durante el reensamblaje, intenta re-enganchar los clips, presiona firmemente cerca de cada borde de cada lado de la carcasa inferior, (cerca de donde se inserta la púa en la tercera imágen) hasta que escuches los clips encajar en su lugar.

Paso 4

Mientras mantienes la carcasa inferior en su lugar, con cuidado voltea la MacBook para que el logo de Apple quede arriba.

Paso 5

Levanta la carcasa superior y la pantalla juntos desde el borde frontal y levanta a unos 45˚ grados aproximadamente.
Puede ayudarte apoyar la MacBook abierta en esta posición para el siguiente paso.

This displays two black pics to prop up the MacBook, but the kit only includes one black pic.

Kyle Swafford -

Paso 6

Usa la parte plana de la spudger para presionar y mantener el pequeño botón dorado 'desconectar batería'.
Si el LED de poder está encendido, continua presionando el botón hasta que el LED se apague por completo, y luego suelta el botón. Esto puede tomar unos 10 segundos.
Si el LED no se ilumina, suelta el botón después de 5 a 10 segundos. Presiona y mantén otra vez por 5 a 10 segundos, luego sueltas. Finalmente, presiona y mantén por tercera vez de 5 a 10 segundos, y suelta.
Este paso asegura que la MacBook está totalmente apagada y es seguro trabajar en ella.

cannot turn on the led after replacing the new screen, even after following the turn on instructions upper…

Laurent Pierre - 07/10/18

on reassembly, I had to plug my laptop in to reactivate the LED light

aaron_vandyke2003 - 09/04/19

Does anyone know how to turn it back on..? I plugged the laptop in and saw the LED Light, but it won’t turn on

mmcsorley - 17/04/19

After reassembly I could not restart my MacBook using the power button or after SMC reset (shift-ctrl-option-pwr). I had to connect my MacBook to its charging cable to get the battery LED to re-illuminate. After that it was all normal.

Richard Lovatt - 18/09/19

It took a few minutes on the power adapter for my computer to turn on after it was reassembled.

Luk Chl - 09/02/20

mine doesnt turn on w anything, i forgot to click the buton to disconnect :_/

cristian.campuzano - 16/06/20

Same issue as above peeps. Followed ifixit directions verbatim and wasn't getting anything after screwing everything back in. Plugged in original 45W power block and waited, after few minutes battery LED came on and a min. or two after that, was able to get screen to turn on. Hope this helps somebody else.

Brandon Elliott - 21/07/20

May I ask how to get screen to turn on. I cannot get it work..

Xiubo Zhang - 19/12/20

For those whose Mac won't turn on.

See step 16

To reconnect this cable, first line up the metal bracket over the screw holes, then "PRESS DOWN" on the middle of the bracket.

There is a connector under the bracket, which you can't see if you don't see under.

Not having it in mind, you will not PRESS DOWN the middle of the bracket and there is no connect.

hls2005 -

There needs to be mention of procedure for getting the repaired MacBook to power up again after the repair is completed.

I also am running into the issue described by others. MB will not come on again, even after being plugged into power and performing an SMC reset.

Kinda stuck….

Carlos Perez - 05/04/21

Hi, I tried everything and my MacBook will not start up after replacing the bottom case with a battery installed. I decided to put back on the old case with the battery that needs servicing and it still will not power on. I am fairly experienced taking apart laptops I was an Apple service tech for 15 years. this has me baffalled. Any hints BTY the logic board does not show any power coming from the AC charger the power LED is not lit up

eestern -

I had trouble with this as well. What worked for me is to plug in power using the stock 29W USB C power brick that originally came with this Macbook. Trying other, lower powered, power adapters did not work. Use this advice with caution as there are multiple (i.e substantiated) comments that indicate that first power up should only be with a 5W adapter! So perhaps try this strict sequence: try with a 5W adapter, then and only then try with the 29W adapter. Or even slightly better, if everything else has completely failed, only then try full power 29W adapter.

LexxOne -

How long did you wait to get it power back on? I replaced my logic board and tried to connect the power charger but it doesnt still turn on.

Herb -

The easiest error to make when working on this motherboard if applying full voltage after re-assembly. According to the big A, the motherboard on these Macbooks need to be “woken up” with a 5 watt (phone size) charger. Applying the normal 29 watts may render your system unusable.

Noah - Feb 18, 2021

Hello Noah,

It seems your remark is only valid for the 2015 and not the 2016 edition.

David - Mar 3, 2021

While it’s true that the internal documentation specifies this for a 2015, after frying 2 motherboards with a normal charger, I spoke with the engineers and they told me that this also applies to 2016 and 2017 macbook main logic boards. I say- It can’t hurt to try to wake them up with a 5 watt charger first! Please take 5 minutes to save your motherboard.

Noah - Mar 4, 2021

Noah -

I plugged in my charger and the LED came on. The computer gets warm but the screen is not turning on. The keyboards doesn’t seem to respond to recovery options. Any suggestions?

J'Trel Sapp -

Hello in muy case the power LED does not go dark (off) . Holding more than 10 sec and nothing. Somebody?

Flavio - 17/03/23

The led light doesn’t turn off on mine either. Held for 10 sec 3 times and still on. How do I turn it off now? And will it damage the computer if I work on it with the light on?

sfalba -

Also, which way should the track pad flex cable face when reinstalling it?

sfalba -

Paso 7

Cierra la MacBook y cuidadosamente voltéala boca abajo.

Paso 8

Levanta desde el borde delantero, abre la carcasa a un ángulo de 45° aproximadamente.
Ten cuidado en no dañar lo cables de cinta que siguen conectados a la carcasa inferior de la MacBook.

Paso 9

Usa las pinzas para quitar la cinta que cubre el cable del trackpad con conector ZIF.

Where can I find a replacement cable?

John Comix - 10/03/20

Just worked on one that was missing the tape from the factory, so yours may not have it either.

maccentric -

that cable got damaged, and now my macbook won't turn on anymore. Does this cable prevent the macbook from working?

ITZ CRONOMO -

Paso 10

Usa el spudger para levantar cuidadosamente la solapa en el cable del trackpad con conector ZIF.

The small retainer flips up about 90 degrees from locked position

abscate - 27/02/20

The keyboard and trackpad don't work after the repair, what can I do? They don't even show up in System Report.

bredelet -

I found that the connector was not pushed enough in. Works now.

bredelet -

Paso 11

Desconecta el cable plano del trackpad tirando levemente a través de la ranura de la estructura.

Paso 12

Con cuidado cierra la MacBook y voltea una vez más, para que el logo de Apple quede arriba.
Levantando desde el borde delantero, eleva la carcasa superior/pantalla a unos 90° grados de ángulo, y apóyalo contra algo rígido para que no tengas qué sostenerlo.
Agrega una pieza de cinta cerca del trackpad para asegurar la carcasa superior y prevenir movimiento accidentales.
Es posible abrir la MacBook por completo con lo dos lado acostado planos, pero esto puede dañar los cables flex y no es recomendable.

Paso 13

Quita el único tornillo de 2.9 mm T5 Torx asegurando el conector de la batería de la tarjeta lógica.

From my experience it’s important to carefully press and hold the small button above left of the Battery Discharge label. Use a plastic spudger or finger tip. The illuminated yellow LED to the right will go off. I believe this discharges remaining electricity from logic board protecting it during repair.

* I cannot find any documentation to support this, but I have damaged boards by not including this step.

Chris Leeds - 30/04/18

I don't know what guide your on, but step 6 of the guide to replacing the USB-C cable has you press this button (3 times even).

maccentric -

What is with the all plastic end of this cable that appears to just be glued right on top of its connector?

Does the new one just stick back right on top?

(In this photo it is the bottom side of the cable below the white water indicator sticker)

Elizabeth Erkelens - 18/04/19

Paso 14

Como una precaución adicional, puedes desconectar físicamente la batería insertando la púa aisladora de batería entre la tarjeta lógica y el conector de la batería.

What happen if you don’t disconnect the battery? I didn’t and I saw smoke coming out when I connected the pad flex cable and the computer still started up

DSANTIAGOSOY - 31/03/19

If you don’t disconnect the battery you might accidentally short something on the logic board since power is still running through everything while you’re working on it. You can complete the repair without disconnecting the battery, but you risk accidentally breaking your logic board. It’s much safer to keep the battery disconnected while you’re working.

Adam O'Camb - 03/04/19

Paso 15

Quita los dos tornillos asegurando el soporte del cable del puerto USB-C.
Tornillo 1.1 mm Phillips #00
Tornillo 3.5 mm T5 Torx

I’m at this point and the 1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw won’t budge and now I fear it could be stripped? Now what???

Y'vonne Feeney - 15/04/20

You could try to cover the tip of your screwdriver with a thin rubber glove to improve the grip on the screw while applying a little more downward force for the initial jolt. That might loosen the screw.

Tobias Isakeit - 28/04/20

The USB-C ribbon cable breaks very easily when being attached. Any particular tricks for ensuring that it won’t snap somewhere while being installed?

bfg737 - 12/08/20

With my iFixit screwdriver kit, these were Philips #000, not #00.

Paul Nishikawa - 11/10/20

This was #000 for me as well

Adam Hupp - 21/11/20

I was at the 1.1 mm and couldn't get it open with the 00. I ordered the 000 but it still won't budge. I tried the glove idea and as much pressure as I'm comfortable giving. I'm pretty sure the screw is stripped. Any ideas or advice or am I in trouble?

johnny gutierrez -

Paso 16

Usa el lado plano de la spudger para desconectar el soporte del cable del puerto USB-C aplicando palanca hacia arriba de la tarjeta lógica.
Para reconectar este cable, primero alinea el soporte metálico por encima de los huecos de los tornillos, luego presiona en el centro del soporte. Asegúrate que está alineado correctamente o puedes dañar el conector.

At re-assembling, when you reconnect this cable, pressing centre of metal plat is extremely important. You should feel tiny click when it connected properly. I encountered unrecognised external HDD and external monitor through USB-C even though charging in/out was OK, i.e failure of data transmission. I needed to re-open the back cover and pressed the metal plate again, then USB-C connection worked properly.

Aki Mochi - 13/12/20

After this step, I flipped the Macbook over once more and opened it up 90 degrees, supported on the back. Proceeded directly to step 25. Seems safer, those fragile connectors and flimsy cables give me heebie jeebies.

maccentric -

Paso 17

Usa el spudger para abrir la solapa que retiene el conector ZIF del Audio Jack

Paso 18

Desconecta el cable plano de la tarjeta del Jack de Audio tirando su parte plana trasera del conector ZIF.
Durante el rearmado, orienta el cable plano para que el lado con la linea blanca este de cara a ti, como se muestra.
En este punto es posible abrir la MacBook por completo y acostarla de forma plana en una mesa sin causar ningún daño al cable flex

Make sure at reassembly that you insert the ribbon cable in to the jack board fully. It seems to take an extra push. The white line should disappear when it is seated properly. I didn’t get it in all the way by a fraction of a mm and had no sound (internal speakers weren’t even recognized). Went back and seated the cable fully and sound was back.

Timothy Dinkelman - 10/12/19

I had that same problem, too.

lyonmissions -

Had the same problem, (no audio after reassembly) it did have the startup chime though.
after re-seating the ribbon cable, it worked for a few days, but then nothing after waking up.
not even the startup chime.
Any body got pointers on how to check if i broke the cable or the board? (looks fine...)

Christian Stanner -

Paso 19

Usa unas pinzas para despegar la cinta que cubre el conector del cable de la pantalla.

I won’t have my daughter’s MacBook with its banana encrusted USB-C port until she returns home during spring break — just doing some homework before then. But if the case can lie flat after the audio board ZIF cable is detached, why do you need to detach the display cable connector (Steps 19-24)? It seems that you could jump straight to Step 25 to replace the USB-C port and avoid those steps.

John Conklin - 24/02/20

Hi John, disconnecting the display cable is not necessary, but is recommended to avoid accidental damage to the cable during the rest of the procedure. If you feel confident in the safety of the cable then you can skip ahead. Good luck with the repair!

Adam O'Camb - 26/02/20

I skipped ahead to step 25 successfully by making a secure stand for the display and being careful to not strain cables. If you are decently motor skilled this saves you 15 minutes or so. Not recommended if you live with cats who love little screws to chase

abscate - 27/02/20

Paso 20

Es posible que la solapa metálica de retención del conector del cable de la pantalla se abra y quede pegada a la cinta.
Si es así, usa el extremo plano de una pinza para sujetar la solapa de retención mientras despegas la cinta con las pinzas.

Paso 21

Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para abrir la solapa de retención del conector del cable de la pantalla.
Trata de mantenerla libre de la cinta adhesiva, o puede volver a adherirse y dificultar la extracción del cable.

I found it helpful to stick one of the triangular picks in between the table and the retaining flap to keep them separated.

Kofi Kantanka -

Paso 22

Desliza con cuidado el extremo plano de un spudger por debajo del cable de la pantalla para separar el adhesivo que lo sujeta a la caja inferior.
Ten cuidado de no dañar el cable. Si el adhesivo es muy fuerte, calienta lacaja directamente debajo del cable con un iOpener para ablandar el adhesivo y vuelve a intentarlo.

Great, another new fragile display cable to deal with. Thanks Apple.

maccentric - 13/05/20

Paso 23

Desconecta el cable de la pantalla tirando suavemente de él para sacarlo de su conector.
Cierra inmediatamente la solapa de retención.
La solapa debe permanecer cerrada cuando se vuelva a insertar el cable durante el montaje. Alinea el cable con los contactos dorados hacia abajo y deslícelo suavemente en el conector cerrado. Ten cuidado de no aplastar o dañar el cable. Cuando esté completamente insertado, las hendiduras de los lados no deben ser visibles.

I’m pretty sure I understand the instructions here, but I had to think about it a little longer because “… must remain closed when the cable is reinserted during reassembly …” was not clear to me right away. The retaining flap I discovered, is super delicate, and hence my paranoia, so I wanted to point this out in case anyone else felt like me: ''''Is it correct to assume that your instructions could be interpreted as:

“After disconnecting the cable, close the retaining flap for now to avoid damaging it. When reinstalling the cable, flip up the retaining flap once again, realign and slide the cable with gold contacts facing down.”

I bent the USB-C corner of the lower case from a short drop onto laminate flooring, so in I went to shape it so the edge wouldn’t snag or scratch things. I am typing on my MacBook that received the body work.

Thank you for your guidance!

John Torquido - 30/07/18

For @seriouslyjohn and anyone else who might be wondering: “the flap must remain closed when the cable is reinserted” means keep it closed. Do not reopen the flap to insert the cable; just insert it carefully while leaving the flap closed. I know it probably runs counter to the procedure you’re used to, but Apple’s documentation is very clear on this, and I have to think it’s for a reason. My advice is to follow the instructions as written and don’t try to reinterpret them ;) Congrats on a successful repair!

Jeff Suovanen - 31/07/18

Oops! I most definitely did NOT reinsert the cable into a closed connector. We can only wonder why Apple instructed this step to be counter-intuitive. I’ll pay closer attention to any weirdness that may arise, but the MacBook has been traveling and performing as it should; I’m going to avoid reopening the case, as easy as it is, until I have a good reason to do so. Thank you for replying and updating the guide!

John Torquido - 31/07/18

I would argue that you should NOT close the retaining flap. I followed the directions to the letter, and when I started up the MacBook, the display did not register since the I wasn’t able to reseed the cable fully without worrying about tearing the cable. I did hear the computer charging and saw that the keyboard lit up, so I knew the MacBook was working besides the display. I looked up another video on Youtube that left the retaining flap open when reinstalling, so I took apart the Macbook again and tried it that way, and IT WORKED! The cable wasn’t fully reseated with the retainer open and I’m not sure if that was my fault or not, but with the retainer flap open, it was easier to see that. My 2 cents. Good luck everyone!

Sulmo Kim - 11/09/20

I initially tried inserting the cable with the retaining flap closed (as described), however after completing reassembly the MacBook could be heard to start but without any display action (no backlight, no graphics - also tried resetting the SMC). Being suspicious of this step based on the comments above, I tried re-inserting the cable with the retaining flap open before subsequently closing the flap. It may have just been my perception but insertion with the retaining flap open certainly appeared to result in a more robust mating of cable and connector. After reassembly and reset of the SMC I at least saw backlight action although no graphics still. A subsequent boot into to diagnostics mode resulted in the graphics coming to life.

Maybe my re-insertion while the retaining flap was closed was not quite correct (although I was certainly trying to be careful), but my experience was that success was achieved making the cable insertion while the retaining flap was open.

Paul Richards -

It is kind of nice that I don't have to worry about that. The screen cable is literally plug & play. Super easy.

lyonmissions -

Paso 24

Separa el conjunto de la caja superior del conjunto de la caja inferior.

Paso 25

Usa un spudger para abrir la solapa de retención del conector ZIF para el cable plano del ensamblaje del micrófono dual.

Paso 26

Desconecta el cable plano del conjunto del micrófono tirando de él directamente para sacarlo de su conector.

Does anyone know were I can buy the “microphone assembly ribbon cable“? It is the most delicate cable and cant seem to find spare part.

Vernon Roth - 04/03/20

Paso 27

Retira los dos tornillos Torx T5 de 3,2 mm que sujetan la placa del conector de audio a la caja.

Paso 28

Retira la placa del conector de audio.

After jack replacement my internal speakers stop working. Any solution?

piotr2503 - 04/06/19

There must be a bad contact in the jack socket or the card has been damaged, the sound therefore remains blocked on it

Ludovic -

Paso 29

Prepara un iOpener y aplique calor a la carcasa superior directamente detrás del ensamblaje del micrófono.

If you are replacing the case upper case check to see if your replacement case has a microphone assembly included. If it does you can skip 28-30

Marco Romani - 14/01/19

Paso 30

Utiliza una sonda de punta fina o una púa para despegar con cuidado el conjunto de micrófono doble de la carcasa.

very difficult to remove, even with heat. Can be purchased on eBay for ~ $10

zimmerninja - 26/11/17

The upper case sold by iFixit comes with the dual mic

Tolu Fapohunda - 30/05/20

impossible to remove without damaging the mic. I strongly suggest to remove the screw hodling the keyboard before removing and installing the new mic

Erick Luna -

Paso 31

Retira el conjunto de micrófono dual.

During reassembly, do you need to apply adhesive to the microphone assembly to glue it back to the case? What adhesive is the best to use?

Andrei - 15/05/19

Usually with a part like this, the replacement comes with adhesive pre-applied—just peel off the liner and stick it in place. If you’re re-using the old microphone, you might be able to get away with heating it up a little using a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the old adhesive, and then stick it down. Failing that, I’d add a little B7000 adhesive.

Jeff Suovanen - 15/05/19

So this was very hard to take off. I probably didn’t allow enough time for the adhesive to heat up and loosen. But I noticed that my new upper case assembly already came with a new dual microphone assembly attached. I’m assuming that all new upper assemplies will come with a microphone preinstalled. If that’s the case this part is not necessary and can be skipped in my opinion.

Eduardo Chavez - 30/05/20

it is hard to install the new one, but not impossible. I strongly recommend to peel the adhesive and try to insert the dual mic assebly with actual mic holes facing up. Once inside push with some tweezers to final position. Make sure you remove the blck screw holding the keyboard, it will make iy a bit easier

Erick Luna -

Paso 32

Quita dos tornillos 2.5 mm Phillips #00 que aseguran el puerto USB-C

I didn’t notice this when removing the USB-C port, but it seems to be a little loose under the screws. I have another MacBook of the same vintage and found that its USB-C port also has a little movement when a cable is plugged in. Not much movement, just a little.

woikelaw - 12/08/19

I missed this comment when I did this job but observed the same

No apparent effect on function

abscate - 03/03/20

It would have been a help to have pointed out that actually folding the end of this ribbon cable at the USB C end, as shown in your pictures, before attaching it will help to prevent the cable breaking at one of its inner corners while being installed.

bfg737 - 13/08/20

As with my comment above, for me, these were #000 not #00. Other than that, if you work slowly and deliberately, you will find the right angle. It does go in without any force, but you have to find the right way.

Paul Nishikawa - 11/10/20

Paso 33

Usa la pinzas para levantar el puerto USB-C justo por encima de los tornillos de las bisagras.
Desliza el puerto hacia afuera y arriba por encima de la bisagra de la pantalla para quitarlo.
Hay muy poco espacio libre cuando quitar e instalas el puerto USB-C. Si no hay suficiente espacio, no lo fuerces. Intenta quitar los tornillos de las bisagras y mover las bisagras para mayor apertura de ser necesario.

Successful completion of USBC in 20 minutes with following notes

1 the replacement part has to have the ribbon folded to match the original or will it foul the display case large screw. You know this when you can’t put the two big Pentalobe screws in on the final case install

2 my USBC part looks identical to the original, but the port has some motion even with the screws tight. I’m wondering about this a bit. I’m confident I did not cross thread the screws.

i measure the thickness of the original USB C port board at the two Phillips screws as 325 microns +_25 umicrons

abscate - 27/02/20

I found the same problem with the new part moving a lot after installation even with the screws tight, and realised the problem is the new part does not come with the black rubber seal that goes around the connector (you can see it in pic 3 step 25). I moved that across from the old part to the new one and now it seems very tight.

Gabriele Nicotra - 08/04/20

Step 25 only has one pic

John M - 13/06/20

He means 3rd pic of step 26.

dmjenks - 14/06/20

If you are removing the screen (to replace the top case, for example), do this step afterwards. It is much easier this way.

maccentric - 13/05/20

No luck, the port seems to be wedged in behind the computer’s hinge. But you need to remove USBC port BEFORE you remove the display. Soooooooo any other tips?

The screws on the hinge aren’t in the way, it’s hitting right up near the edge of the computer itself.

John M - 13/06/20

remove the two screws under the rubber piece to disconnect the display. I didn’t have to completely remove it, just enough to slide the pieces in and out

Seth Ferguson - 18/08/20

totally worked! saved me about $550 doing it myself so you have my eternal gratitude

Seth Ferguson - 18/08/20

I found it impossible to remove the USB type C port during this step and instead continued with the next 2 steps and after separating the display found that the USB type C port was effortlessly removed……hope that helps someone

Steve Harris - 17/12/20

I think it’s a pretty $@$*!& tutorial. Sorry to be blunt.

It is essentially missing about 3 final steps that show the replacement piece so one can appreciate it.

I read the tutorial, thought it’s all clear and then bought the piece except it was an incomplete piece. Since the tutorial is missing the last three steps, I could not judge the piece and essentially got lured buying an incomplete piece.

Mark Schira - 20/02/21

I don’t understand why here in this picture it looks like the black ribbon is turning away from the port but for the piece I bought, die black ribbon goes in the same direction as the port: Retina MacBook 2016 Teardown .

Miriam Guth -

Paso 34

Retira los dos tornillos Torx T5 de 3,3 mm que sujetan el ensamblaje del cable de la pantalla.
Ten cuidado de no perder el pequeño soporte de retención ubicado debajo del tornillo derecho. Si se suelta, ten en cuenta la orientación que se muestra aquí para volver a montar. La pequeña pestaña en el borde exterior izquierdo debe engancharse debajo del escudo de metal perforado.

Paso 35

Abre completamente la pantalla.
Coloca la MacBook sobre su borde derecho con la pantalla de espaldas a ti, como se muestra.

I found putting the laptop keyboard down on the edge of a table (With screen open, and going down the side of the table) To be easier. It allowed me to put in the torque needed in unscrewing the screen.

Michael Daken -

Paso 36

Retira los cuatro tornillos Torx T8 de 4,8 mm que sujetan las bisagras de la pantalla.
Puede haber una cubierta de goma en los tornillos de las bisagras. Retira esto antes de quitar los tornillos y reemplázalo durante el montaje.

The screws were tight and my cheapo torx driver from Amazon was not up to the task. Bought a good one and the screws came out easily.

bredelet -

Paso 37

Sujetando el ensamblaje de la pantalla con una mano y la carcasa superior con la otra, júntalos ligeramente para sacar las bisagras de sus huecos en la carcasa superior.
Solo hay unos pocos milímetros de juego entre las bisagras y la carcasa, por lo que no tendrás que esforzarse demasiado.
Empuja la carcasa superior hacia adelante mientras tiras suavemente hacia atrás de la pantalla.
Una vez que las dos bisagras de la pantalla hayan salido de la carcasa superior, retira la pantalla y déjala a un lado.

I had to give the screen just a little force here, for it to pop out. Its an incredibly tight fit.

Michael Daken -

Paso 38

Usa un par de pinzas para quitar la cinta que cubre el conector del cable plano del teclado en el panel táctil.

Paso 39

Usando un spudger, abre la solapa de retención en el conector ZIF del cable plano del teclado.

Paso 40

Tira con cuidado del cable plano del teclado para sacarlo de su ranura en el marco.

Pictures seem missing? Luckily this step is pretty straightforward.

maccentric - 13/05/20

Paso 41

Retira los cinco tornillos Torx T3 de 2,5 mm que sujetan el panel táctil a la carcasa.
En algunos conjuntos de controladores, un controlador T4 puede encajar mejor.

Definitely try the T4 first. And press down hard, these things strip easily.

maccentric - 13/05/20

Not a T3 and not a T4, these will strip using whichever one used (my case), maybe my screws were the bad

Juan sanchez - 28/09/20

Paso 42

Retira el ensamblaje del panel táctil.
Los soportes de metal a cada lado del panel táctil pueden caerse durante la extracción. Asegúrate de colocarlos como se muestra en la foto durante el montaje.

There were no metal brackets on mine. I don't know if this MacBook had ever been serviced before, though. Hopefully it won't be an issue.

parts -

Paso 43

Usa un spudger para levantar la solapa de retención del conector ZIF del cable plano del teclado.

Paso 44

Retira con cuidado el cable plano del teclado de la carcasa y extrae el cable.

Paso 45

Queda la carcasa superior.

Is there a possibility to remove the keyboard from the uppercase after that step?

GEORGES GLYKOFRYDIS - 02/02/19

It’s possible, but pretty hard to do. There’s no guide for this specific MacBook, but here’s a guide for removing the keyboard in a 2013 13” Macbook Pro, and a teardown of a 2018 MacBook keyboard. I definitely wouldn’t rely on the guide or teardown to remove this keyboard, but the processes should at least be similar enough to give you an idea of what’s entailed. For further information you might check our answers forum—chances are there’s someone there that knows more about this repair. Good luck!

Adam O'Camb - 02/02/19

Reemplazo del conjunto de la carcasa superior del MacBook Retina 2017

Introducción

Herramientas

Partes

3 comentarios