Reemplazo del conjunto de panel frontal de iPad Mini 2 Wi-Fi

Escrito Por: Sam Goldheart
  • Comentarios: 241
Reemplazo del conjunto de panel frontal de iPad Mini 2 Wi-Fi

Dificultad

Difícil

Pasos

53

Tiempo Requerido

45 minutos - 2 horas

Introducción

Usa esta guía para reparar la pantalla de tu iPad Mini. Esta guía te mostrará como reemplazar el panel frontal, incluyendo el digitalizador, el botón de inicio, y la pantalla de cristal en tu iPad Mini 2 Wi-Fi.

  1. PFpjwVSYrnq3JQap
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    • Te recomendamos que limpies tu microondas antes de continuar, ya que cualquier suciedad desagradable en la parte inferior puede terminar pegado al iOpener.

    • Coloca el iOpener en el centro del microondas.

    • Para microondas giratorios: Asegúrate de que la placa gira libremente. Si el iOpener se queda atascado, puede sobrecalentarse y quemarse.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy -

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray -

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck -

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins -

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib -

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong -

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts -

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony -

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette -

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle -

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu -

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits -

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 -

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 -

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis -

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R -

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam -

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt -

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug -

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien -

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z -

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. -

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler -

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin -

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree -

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler -

    I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

    Tom Weber -

    iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

    To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

    jharrison -

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    • Calienta el iOpener durante treinta segundos.

    • A lo largo del procedimiento de reparación, en cuanto el iOpener se enfríe, vuelve a calentarlo en el microondas treinta segundos más cada vez.

    • Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante la reparación. El sobrecalentamiento puede provocar que el iOpener se rompa.

    • Nunca toques el iOpener si parece estar hinchado.

    • Si el iOpener esta todavía demasiado caliente al tacto, sigue utilizándolo mientras esperas a que se enfríe un poco más antes de recalentar. Un iOpener adecuadamente climatizado debe mantenerse caliente durante un máximo de 10 minutos.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 -

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson -

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon -

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish -

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave -

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey -

    I agree with this.

    Jarl Friis -

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald -

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble -

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim -

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett -

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights -

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only -

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain -

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits -

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis -

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 -

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins -

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov -

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl -

    You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

    Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

    William Draheim -

  3. Q3OPkaQyxV6cdnx3

    • Saca el iOpener del microondas, tomándolo por una de las esquinas planas para evitar el centro caliente.

    • El iOpener estará muy caliente, ten cuidado cuando lo manipules. Utiliza guantes de horno si es necesario.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer -

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits -

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John -

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin -

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark -

    If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
    I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

    Jarl Friis -

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    • Si no tienes un microondas, sigue este paso para calentar su iOpener en agua hirviendo.

    • Llena una olla o cacerola con suficiente agua para sumergir completamente el iOpener.

    • Calienta el agua hasta que hierva. Apaga el fuego.

    • Coloca un iOpener en el agua caliente durante 2-3 minutos. Asegúrate de que el iOpener esté completamente sumergido en el agua.

    • Utiliza unas pinzas para extraer el iOpener calentado del agua caliente.

    • Seca bien el iOpener con una toalla.

    • El iOpener estará muy caliente, así que ten cuidado de sujetarlo sólo por las lengüetas de los extremos.

    • Tu iOpener está listo para ser utilizado. Si necesita recalentar el iOpener, calienta el agua hasta que hierva, apaga el fuego y coloca el iOpener en el agua durante 2-3 minutos.

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com -

    Use a hair dryer

    Edited To the max -

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia -

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia -

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    • Si tu pantalla de cristal está rota, evita que se produzcan más roturas y evita daños corporales durante la reparación encintando el cristal

    • Coloca tiras superpuestas de cinta de embalaje transparente sobre el display de la iPad hasta que la caratula este completamente cubierta.

    • Esto mantendrá los fragmentos de la pantalla y proveerá integridad estructural cuando se haga palanca o se levante la pantalla.

    • Haz lo mejor para seguir el resto de la guía como se describe. Aun así, una vez que el vidrio esta roto, este continuará rompiéndose conforme trabajas, y puede que necesites una herramienta de palanca de metal para sacar el cristal.

    • Usa lentes de seguridad para proteger tus ojos, y ten cuidado de no dañar la pantalla LCD.

    Need some extra instruction on how to handle a truly shattered glass. There was only one spot that the suction cup would even hold on the whole screen - top right, and even with tape there is very little structure to drive a pick under. how do you handle that?

    Greg Crawford -

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    • Sujétalo por la lengüeta y coloca el iOpener caliente en el lateral del iPad, a la izquierda del conjunto del botón de inicio.

    • Deja el iOpener reposar por alrededor de 5 minutos para aflojar el adhesivo bajo el cristal.

    Can you explain how using the iOpener ? That's can be great !

    Matthieu Nasri -

    The iOpener used is essentially a bag of gel, which you put in the microwave for 30 seconds. You lay this against the screen edges to transfer heat and loosen up the glue.

    You could also use a hot-air blower with a re-work station but that's up to you. Mine worked well up to 150°C

    Sam Attwood -

    what about heating a cloth bag filled with rice in the microwave? Would that work?

    SkipR -

    That might work! Rice is less likely to get, and stay, hot enough. But it can't hurt to try! Just be sure you're being patient and letting it really warm up before you pry. People have had luck double bagging a washcloth dipped in very hot water, too.

    Sam Goldheart -

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    • Con cuidado coloca e una ventosa en la mitad del lado calentado.

    • Asegúrate que la ventosa este completamente plana en la pantalla para conseguir un cierre hermético.

    • Mientras sostengas el iPad con una mano, jala con la ventosa para separar un poco el cristal del panel frontal de la cubierta trasera.

    • Asegúrate de solo levantar el cristal lo suficiente para insertar una púa de apertura--un poco mas y te arriesgas de romper el cristal.

    I'm having trouble getting the suction cup to stay connected to the screen to pull it. It just isn't creating a seal no matter how flat I make it. I thought maybe the crack was causing it, so I tried tape. I originally didn't put tape on it because it wasn't losing glass. The tape made it worse of creating a seal. Any advice?

    William -

    After following instructions to cover cracked glass with packing tape, the suction cup won’t adhere at all. Not even a little bit. Any suggestions?

    Brian Tate -

    I had that exact problem when I fixed an Iphone 8. What I did was that I put some ducktape where the suction cup would be placed. That worked for me. That’s of course is if you where doing to replace the glass anyway.

    Pontus Sennerstam -

    I had a screen on an iPad 4 that was so shattered that I literally had to spend 2.5 hours picking every single piece of glass out with tweezers after pulling the few larger pieces off with tape on them. Sometimes you need a lot of patience to be successful. The final cleaning out of the sticky tape along the sides is also very important once the glass is removed. Or the new screen will stick out an/or not go in neatly.

    Michael Burger -

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    • Mientras estés sosteniendo el cristal con la ventosa, desliza la punta de una púa de apertura entre el espacio del cristal y el cuerpo del iPad.

    • No inserte la púa de apertura más adentro que el bisel negro a lado del display. Insertando la púa muy profundo pude dañar el LCD.

    • Jala la protuberancia de plástico de la ventosa para soltar el sellado en vacío y remover la ventosa del conjunto del display.

    Could I use some guitar picks? If so, what gauge (thickness) of a picks should I get?

    SkipR -

    I'm not sure what the correct balance of thickness to strength you'd need, maybe try a couple different types. The idea is to be thin and fit into the smallest gap, but if it gets bogged down in adhesive, it needs to be strong enough to push through. Be sure to use heat and be patient!

    Sam Goldheart -

    i have to use a blow dryer and pack that came with the replacement is there anything i could do to make the adhesive more hot?

    Ace of Spades -

  9. bTCAqT5WBc4HR31i

    • Calienta nuevamente y reaplica el iOpener.

    • Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante la reparación de este producto. Siempre espera al menos 10 minutos antes de recalentar el iOpener.

    • Déjalo descansar por unos minutos para recalentar el borde izquierdo de la iPad.

    Well if you want to save some time and your screen is shattered just pry up one corner either left or right side at the top and tear the whole screen off going down towards the home button but do not completely remove the screen there is a wire connecting the digitizer to the board inside but tearing off the screen will skip you down to step 29 :-) i seen this in a video and saved me about an hour after the fact because my screen was cracking as i was inserting the blue picks so i ripped the whole screen off and used some adhesive remover to get off all the extra goo leftover

    Chris Grayden -

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    xJoYJWVPviY4pCAA

    • Coloca una segunda púa de apertura a lado de la primera y deslízala a lo largo del borde del iPad, soltando el adhsivo sobre la marcha.

    • A través del resto del procedimiento, si encuentras con resistencia significante para deslizar las púas por debajo del cristal, detente y recalienta la sección en la que estas trabajando. Forzando las púas se arriesga en romper el cristal.

    I found that all the following step were much easier for me using a heat gun while keeping the pull on the screen with the suction cup. Basically heat up a section, put the suction cup on, keep pulling the screen upwards on that side, while using the heat gun to continuously heat along the side. It came nicely off, one or two inches at a time. Once I had a whole side up, I just put some of the picks in to keep it up and continued along the side, heating, pulling, heating pulling. This obviously only works if the screen is not totally shattered. Mine only had two cracks.

    Michael Burger -

  11. lDdhmi6N6RVCGtbH
    lDdhmi6N6RVCGtbH
    EtOCI4WYxyqgFEGZ
    qTKUcQgYRA2WjEmi

    • Continua moviendo la púa en el lado del display para soltar el adhesivo.

    • Si la púa de apertura se atora en el adhesivo, "gira" la púa a lo largo del iPad, continua para soltar el adhesivo.

  12. Ur3MeCd6PXDyOoWY
    Ur3MeCd6PXDyOoWY
    yVWsrEhSRCr6RowV
    4MsxmGKjtR6urGV6

    • Toma la primer púa que insertaste y deslízala hacia la esquina superior de la iPad.

    • Si puedes ver la punta de la púa de apertura a través del cristal frontal, no te asustes-solo jala la púa hacia afuera un poco. Lo mas probable es que todo este bien, pero trata de evitar esto ya que puede colocar adhesivo en el frontal del LCD el cual es difícil de limpiar.

  13. pZYokiUWii14phQR

    • Re calienta el iOpener y colócalo en el borde superior de la iPad, por encima de la cámara frontal.

    • Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante el procedimiento de reparación. Espera al menos diez minutos antes de recalentar el iOpener.

    • Si tienes un iOpener flexible, puedes doblarlo para calentar ambos, la esquina superior izquierda y el borde superior al mismo tiempo.

  14. bUYa2Px1AiNusqHH
    bUYa2Px1AiNusqHH
    YolMsuDCrRP5AFYx
    HJGUTTguNADvU4fS

    • Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda del iPad para separar el adhesivo.

  15. HMtdN13wYFITJcCE
    HMtdN13wYFITJcCE
    yNDIj2kOdQ2ZNel5
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    • Desliza la púa de apertura a lo largo del borde superior del iPad, detente antes de llegar a la camara.

    • La tercera imagen muestra donde se encuentra la cámara frontal y la carcasa en el iPad.

    • Evita deslizar la púa de apertura sobre la cámara frontal, ya que podrías manchar de adhesivo dentro del lente o dañar la cámara. Los siguientes pasos detallarán como evitar tratar con la cámara frontal.

  16. lvRRok4HUOZAkvHk
    lvRRok4HUOZAkvHk
    rnNUv3ayj2FotMBC
    rCBmEYNMcyImPSQ6

    • Jala sacala fuera la púa cuidadosamente, y desliza solo la punta cuidadosamente a lo largo del borde de la sección de la cámara frontal en el borde superior.

  17. njvWSIkflJEe4oJI
    njvWSIkflJEe4oJI
    PBdJXJl2QNjE3DbZ
    6ELDwnfHGneRUWaP

    • Deja la púa de apertura en el iPad ligeramente pasando la cámara frontal,

    • Toma una segunda púa e insértala a la izquierda de la cámara; donde la primer púa estaba. Deslízala hacia la esquina para quitar por completo el adhesivo restante.

    • Deja la segunda púa en este lugar para prevenir que el adhesivo de la esquina vuelva a sellar mientras se enfría.

  18. 1Ay2doECHTIuLCPo
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    3HAocCfA32DOZB1J
    cAdFdqTldCyxFJhj

    • Inserta la púa anterior un poco más dentro en el iPad y deslízala lejos de la cámara hacia la esquina.

    If you have the LTE there is a cable on the right upper side! There’s no mention of this in this guide even though it’s for the LTE. I found out after the fact when I saw I cut the cable with the pick.

    Will Lyon -

    Will Lyon, you may want to look again. This is the guide for the WiFi version.

    mcr4u2 -

  19. JSlirTxaDc5XQ3lX

    • Deja las tres púas en las esquinas del iPad para prevenir que se re-adhiera el adhesivo del panel frontal.

    • Recalienta el iOpener y colócalo en el lado sobrante del iPad -- donde se encuentran los botones de bloqueo y volumen.

  20. 4sAF6IwncXYqQ2yr
    4sAF6IwncXYqQ2yr
    PSWn2W6JGQLIBcYI

    • Desliza la púa de apertura en el borde superior alrededor de la esquina para soltar completamente el borde superior del cristal.

    • Deja esta púa en ese lugar para evitar que el adhesivo se selle, y toma una nueva púa para el siguiente paso.

  21. D3jHHxya4ZIYTJKs
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    pIKOrVuTTHFvnhGY
    RSE3mqsOkmJEc4Px

    • Inserta una nueva púa de apertura y deslízala hacia el medio del borde superior en el iPad, despegando el adhesivo sobre la marcha,

    This is not an LTE ipad mini 3, it is a wifi ipad mini 3

    lordofmordor -

  22. 3RfwFHFvIIqW5AkN
    3RfwFHFvIIqW5AkN
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    FjUAOPyUPCIuEKIU

    • Continua deslizando la púa hacia el borde derecho en el iPad, despegando el adhesivo.

  23. 2XkPAlUxl3yLYvFA

    • Deja las púas de apertura en su lugar y re calienta el iOpener.

    • Recuerda no sobrecalentar el iOpener--no mas de una vez cada diez minutos.

    • Ajusta el recalentador iOpener en el botón Home del iPad, y déjalo reposar por unos minutos para aflojar el adhesivo debajo del cristal.

    For those who are replacing a severely shattered front panel, be aware that there are two smart cover magnets attached to the interior side of the front panel that you will need later. Keep an eye out for them (see steps 49 and 50 below for pictures of what these tiny magnets look like) so that you don't have to go digging through the debris later.

    Jeff G -

  24. IDDKtZaXDg6OZleY
    IDDKtZaXDg6OZleY
    2APsCFLfDaSFYShO
    iYABwZHGDPCGVHYd

    • Desliza la púa del lado inferior izquierdo hacia la esquina inferior izquierda para cortar el adhesivo en esa esquina.

    • Deja la púa en la esquina. No palanquees más, y no remuevas la púa del iPad.

    • Hay algunas cosas que tienes que evitar debajo del bisel inferior, estudia la tercer imagen con cuidado:

    • Antenas

    • Cavidad del botón de inicio

    • Cable digitalizador

    • Los siguientes pasos te indicarán donde hacer palanca para evitar hacer daño a estos componentes. Solo aplica calor y has palanca donde se indique.

  25. ZSGVNvsibO1nYx25
    ZSGVNvsibO1nYx25
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    u34rkMoqLBLTuU6B

    • Deja la púa del paso anterior en su lugar para prevenir que el adhesivo se reselle,

    • Con una nueva púa, desliza gentilmente sobre la antena a mano izquierda, deteniéndote antes del botón de inicio.

    • Solo desliza la púa sobre el borde exterior hacia el centro del iPad. No muevas la púa hacia el borde exterior, ya que al hacerlo puedes dañar la antena.

    • Si necesitas deslizar la púa sobre la sección inferior mas de una vez, remuévela y re insértala en el borde exterior, y desliza hacia adentro.

    • Deja la púa en este lugar antes de continuar.

  26. gwDYrXpgXXHTCD1M
    gwDYrXpgXXHTCD1M
    ZqTFknvgvjovgxDd
    3ZRlYCDHbNJPqZjC

    • Inserta la punta de una de las últimas púas a lado de la púa del paso anterior, y deslízala por debajo del botón de inicio.

    • Detente cerca de una pulgada antes del lado derecho para evitar cortar el cable digitalizador.

    • Inserta la púa mas profundo y trabájala de nuevo hacia el botón de inicio.

    • Nuevamente, asegúrate de deslizar la púa hacia el entro del iPad cuando este insertada completamente, de otra manera dañarás la antena debajo del cristal.

    Do NOT insert the pick much deeper to the right of the home button, you can easily damage the fingerprint ID chip.

    kimhoover -

    There is no fingerprint id chip in an iPad mini 2 (retina)

    blakebest -

    Be very careful in the vicinity and to the right of the home button. Only insert the very tip of the pick (similar to the instructions earlier for by the camera). Do not try to go beneath the home but as suggested here, just along the glass edge. I damaged the small metal clip under the button and detached the IC tape from the button, meaning I had to replace the glass touch screen with digitiser and home button.

    PeterB -

  27. BlnxFPSeQUlAruKU

    • Recalienta y reaplica el iOpener al bisel superior del iPad.

  28. Ig1DIEr25SjulBWQ
    Ig1DIEr25SjulBWQ
    Wx5bfiLMbg2I6Ou6

    • Ten mucho cuidado en este paso. Tomate tu tiempo y asegúrate que el adhesivo esta caliente y flojo, y que ya has pasado por todo el adhesivo con las púas de apertura. No tengas miedo de detenerte y recalentar.

    • En el superior del iPad opuesto al botón de inicio, debes tener una púa colocada en cada esquina. Gira las púas para levantar el cristal con cuidado, separando el adhesivo restante acompañado de los 4 bordes.

    • Si te enfrentas a una cantidad significante de resistencia, deja de girar. Deja las púas en su lugar, recalienta y reaplica el iOpener en las áreas del problema, y pasa una púa a lo largo del punto pegado una vez mas.

  29. QqUXZZWsJEWetEBc
    QqUXZZWsJEWetEBc
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    • Levanta lenta y gentilmente para despegar el adhesivo a lo largo del borde inferior.

  30. A6nVinsoPqipEgAu
    A6nVinsoPqipEgAu
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    • Una vez que todo el adhesivo se halla separado, abre el cristal frontal como una página de un libro y colócala en tu espacio de trabajo.

    • Si se reutiliza el conjunto del panel frontal durante el montaje, necesitarás reemplazar el adhesivo de tu display. Usa nuestra guia de aplicación de adhesivo de display para reaplicar el adhesivo al display y sellar tu dispositivo.

    This picture and several others that follow are not for the "LTE" model.

    Tim Osborn -

    Some of the steps, including the comments, are replicated between guides.  Be aware! This can render them somewhat generic, and possibly non-optimal.  For instance, this step is replicated between at least the mini 2 LTE, mini 2 Wi-Fi, mini 3 LTE, & mini 3 Wi-Fi.

    ciradrak -

    Maybe that’s because this is for the WiFi model.

    mcr4u2 -

    Remember to remove the old black adhesive from the digitizer and iPad frame. Some can be pulled out and some needs a sharp blade to remove. This will give you room to apply your new adhesive strips when reassembling.

    Yousef Ghalib -

  31. xyT2PDmuXFcxobum
    xyT2PDmuXFcxobum
    FWKPU2EwNN3AlH6n
    6V5XYse2TnHRtNQO

    • La carcasa de la cámara frontal puede quedarse pegada a el panel frontal; despega la carcasa y colócala después sobre la cámara para protegerla.

    • Balancea la carcasa de la cámara en un borde para liberarla del adhesivo y retírala del panel frontal.

    • Regresa la carcasa de la cámara frontal a su hueco en la carcasa trasera.

  32. Vh6SyyqrcNyTyuPO
    Vh6SyyqrcNyTyuPO
    BggRIsCSIWShCAKa

    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos Phillips #00 que aseguran el LCD:

    • Tres tornillos de 3.3 mm

    • Un tornillo de 4.5 mm

    • Si hay cinta cubriendo alguno de los tornillos del LCD despégalo con las pinzas.

    This is VERY IMPORTANT please be sure to put the screws EXACTLY how they were when you removed them otherwise your screen will not rotate when you put the new digitizer on. i closed my ipad thinking everything was ok but now the screen does not automatically rotate, but lucky i jailbroke my ipad first and have an activator gesture to rotate for me :-)

    Chris Grayden -

    stripped the screws at the home button side of the ipad and the precision screw extractor set is too big to work. help?! paramedic064@gmail.com

    paramedic064 -

    We have some great posts on Answers about getting stripped screws out, you can refer to What are your tips/tricks for removing or extracting stripped screws? for advice, or ask a new one and see if someone can come up with new ideas. We also have a stripped screw removal guide for you to check out. Good luck!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I found that Phillips #000 work better then the Phillips #00 for this entire product. I'll be recommending a change to the fix kit as well.

    William -

    This is a tip:

    I have a terrible time cleaning the lcd because no matter how hard I try not to touch it, I always get smudges! So take my advice…remove the front film from the new digitizer and place it over the lcd. It is bigger so you can cut it down or just lift it to get to the screws. Now no fingerprints and also less chance for scratches. The front side is easy to clean once it’s installed so need to have that covered while working-the insides are what needs protecting.

    mamashannon4u -

  33. SbvJPrwW6vq4I3Oq
    SbvJPrwW6vq4I3Oq
    31QmLJAHSViHxeGT

    • No trates de remover completamente el LCD. Aún está sujeto a su lugar y conectado al iPad por varios cables al final del botón de inicio. Levanta solo del final de la cámara frontal.

    • Inserta la punta plana de un spudger debajo del LCD, entre este y la placa protectora del LCD y levante gentilmente.

    • Ten cuidado de no colocar el spudger debajo de la placa protectora. Debe ser entre el LCD y la placa.

    • Incluso doblando el LCD un poco puede permanentemente dañarlo, por lo tanto ten extremo cuidado cuando lo levantes.

    • Puedes probar estos métodos alternativos para remover para reducir las chances de romper el LCD cuando lo estés removiendo.

    • Corre una cuerda delgada (como hilo dental o hilo de pesca) bajo la pantalla, comenzando desde la parte superior y luego trabajando hacia abajo

    • Usa una delgada, tarjeta flexible o dinero en plástico para cortar a través del adhesivo empezando desde arriba.

    Be very careful not to get the spudger under the shield plate, but between the LCD and the shield. Also, not that on the LTE models, the antennas are at this end and there is a bit of adhesive holding this end of the LCD down.

    Tim Osborn -

    This bit of adhesive is located beneath the foam, and runs the entire length of the antennas. You must lift the foam and detach the tape before you're able to get the top to come out the chassis

    James -

    This is not present in this tutorial and is very frustrating. I fix it must look into this

    James -

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey -

    Thanks for the fishing line suggestion. It certainly worked for me (used 6lb test line). With using the fishing line, one is a lot less likely to break the LCD compared to using a spudger.

    rgstout -

    awesome tip thanks

    Pa Du -

    The tutorial procedure should be edited once and for all to instruct to detach the adhesive strip from the top of the LCD prior to attempting to lift it. Failure to do so will invariably result in a broken LCD!!!

    The simplest way to do that is to first gently remove the foam strip running around the top of the LCD with a pair of tweezers. Only then will the shiny metallic adhesive tape be visible and accessible.

    lorenzocangiano -

    I found that if you take two flat plastic spurgers and run one down each side together it works fairly well. Just take your time.

    Abbot -

    The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

    Timothy McEvoy -

    Yeah, I broke my LCD because the guide did not specify the glue on the top portion if you have an LTE model. I didn’t even try hard at all. I tried to lift it with the plastic spudger and saw that it did not move. Came to check the comments and when I looked back the top corner was already broken.

    Thanks iFixit! Awesome guide

    Jorge Tamez -

    Another LCD broken victim. Getting it loose from the adhesive was easy. However, it would not fold over like a book. Something had it bound at the bottom. Heard the dreaded crack. First iFixit fail for me.

    Vince Kowaleski -

  34. YgjIyBiWxPcC1NqB
    YgjIyBiWxPcC1NqB
    oqUSFNHoiwl4YCMV
    SAaNA2MfQYl3HgNS

    • La LCD está asegurada por un adhesivo suave que debe aflojarse antes de voltear la LCD hacia arriba desde su placa protectora.

    • Inserte una espátula entre el LCD y la placa protectora del LCD y deslícela al borde mas lejano del iPad.

    Hi. I noticed that the tutorial is for an LTE iPad mini 2. However, these pictures do not show and LTE device. I'm having issues removing the LCD from the iPad due to the antenna. Any suggestions? (How to remove antenna?)

    Kevin Rodriguez -

    This step needs extra detail on how the LCD adhesive should be loosened. I've now got stress marks on the LCD which show up when solid backgrounds are displayed on screen as the LCD flexed when trying to pry it out.

    Cool_Breeze -

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey -

    Great tip about the fishing wire because you will most certainly crack the LCD just yanking it out. Thank you and hit em with the hein

    Curtis Jordan Lenox -

    I found that if you take two flat plastic spurgers and run one down each side together it works fairly well. Just take your time.

    Abbot -

    The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

    Timothy McEvoy -

    "mild adhesive" is really an understatement.
    The LCD is firmly attached to the metal plate below it.
    Especially if you try to repair an older ipad, the adhesive gets hard.
    Do not attempt to lift the LCD with spudgers in an attempt to get it out.
    You will break it.
    Use fishing line or some other strong wire to cut loose this adhesive.
    Even a strong sewing wire will do (it will take 5~6 wires because sharp edges of the housing will cut the wire easily).

    Sjaak Spoiler -

  35. OCPenEKcMqRXxTNq
    OCPenEKcMqRXxTNq
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    • Dos tiras anchas de cinta conectan el LCD con las bocinas.

    • Sostén el LCD con una mano, y la parte trasera del LCD con la otra.

    • No intentes remover el LCD completamente del iPad.

    • Gentilmente jala el LCD de las bocinas para separar la cinta, ten cuidado de no jalar el cable digitalizador.

    this was a pain to remove but the two pieces of tape should be separated using your spudger so that you can remove the lcd.

    Chris Grayden -

    absolutely. lift the screen 45 degrees before pulling it too

    Billinski -

    The screen was a tight fit in the recess. Whilst maneouvering it out, it flexed a little. Once reassembled, there are now feint stress marks visible when the screen displays a uniform background. With photos it's not noticeable, but on solid backgrounds, it is very noticeable. :-(

    Be careful when pulling the LCD out. Any hints for pulling it out safely should be added to this step.

    Cool_Breeze -

    This step is bad advise. Once you get the LCD unglued top and sides, drop those plastic tools behind it to keep it up and apply heat to the front bottom of the LCD where the tape is applied on either side, use your spudger to push the tape away before you attempt to pull or flip the LCD over. It is very easy to break if you don't get the tape loose enough, so do yourself a favor and free the LCD from the tape before you attempt to maneuver it.

    brentschwartz -

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey -

    As others have said this step is rather problematic and following the tuturial instructions will most definitely lead to damaging the LCD. One problem is that the two adhesive tapes are not indicated in the photo: they are large and black and they are partly covered by long strips of thicker material that looks like padding. To remove them it helps to heat a little with the opener and then one can slowly peel them away by alternating the sharp and flat tips of the spudger.

    lorenzocangiano -

    This must be the most difficult part. I took the advice of using fishing line and it worked a treat. However, due to lack of knowledge - I managed to slice straight through the LCD ribbons (all of them). I figure it was glue so kept going! Please take not that fishing line is only good for the sides, not the top where the LCD is attached! New LCD on order for round 2.

    Mike -

    Well. I cracked the LCD during this process, so another $100. But, it’s the journey that counts, right? There is adhesive keeping the LCD attached to the aluminum shield. As I was prying the LCD up (I didn't know about the adhesive), I did hear feint cracking. Also it is too tight to try to flip the LCD over as shown. I did heat the bottom strips, but still tried to do it as shown, more cracking. It seems best to heat it and push the adhesive strips back and separate them prior to lifting. As well as the sides of the LCD for lifting!!

    William Dailey -

    I separated the small tape in the middle (5mm), and the large upper tape (20mm), but left the lower tape at the connector in place. That way, the LCD was much easier to pull away gently and to tilt over.

    peterhebbinckuys -

    I used a needle nosed tweezers to remove the tape on the bottom left and right. I then used the plastic spudger and went between the LCD and the metal piece. I gently went down the left side about half way and then the right and slowly and gently worked both sides until they separated.

    Abbot -

    This step is unclear and should be revised, but Abbot’s comment has the right idea.  The tape holding the LCD in place should be highlighted in the image. This tape wraps around the lower edge of the panel and extends onto the front face, then a piece of cushion is attached on top.  Heat that tape to soften the adhesive then peal it up.  The connector for the LCD is on the back side of the panel in the lower right hand corner, it is not near the tape you are pealing away from the panel. Once the tape is separated very little force is required to shift the panel toward the top of the device as depicted. If you attempt to ‘pull the LCD away from the speakers’ with two hands as shown, it will almost certainly be broken.  Also, all the youtube explanations (at least the ones I could find) of how to remove the LCD make it look like you lift up on the top which would only cause the LCD to break.  So youtube failed this step as well.  It’s not easy, be careful.

    P.S. as these steps are replicated between more than one device –– I’m working on an iPad mini 3 LTE, the tape may be in different places on other devices?

    ciradrak -

    The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

    Timothy McEvoy -

    The three tapes is best removed with tweezers! Then the LCD is easily flipped over. Extremely odd it’s not explained in this way.

    trnilsson -

    It is MANDATORY to loosen the 3 tapes as well (step 36), don’t even try to lift it without loosening them first!!!! After you did it you can turn the screen without any resistance! Should be added in this guide!!!!

    Ishino Akatawa -

  36. MHTmDifM512fcEv3
    MHTmDifM512fcEv3
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    • No intentes remover completamente el LCD. Está aún conectado al iPad con varios cables en el botón de inicio. Levanta solamente la parte donde se encuentra la cámara frontal.

    • Voltea el LCD del iPad como una página en un libro, levantando cerca de la cámara y volteándolo sobre el botón de inicio en la carcasa trasera.

    • Se gentil y mantén un ojo en los cables del LCD al momento de voltear el dispositivo.

    • Coloca el LCD en el cristal del panel frontal para permitir el acceso a los cables del display.

  37. AnUN4QhiwUdyKrJr
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    • Desliza la punta de la herramienta plana entre el LCD y la lengüeta de adhesivo para liberar la pantalla.

    • Presiona con cuidado entre las dos lengüetas de adhesivo; ten cuidado de no dañar ninguno de los cables cercanos.

    This was harder than it looks. The adhesive tape covers a lot of area and has stuck to it tiny wires that go to the speaker. I had to use the tweezers to very carefully separate the wire from the adhesive, and to then pull the adhesive off the circuit board area in one spot before it would finally come away.

    Ray Everett -

    Be careful that it does not pull up all the foam strips, that was my issue.

    Shane -

  38. QnCiykDiAbNok3FQ

    • Remueve los 7 tornillos de 1.8 mm Phillips #00 de la placa de protección del LCD.

    My LCD shield plate had many more screws than this. You have to remove them all.

    David Rowthorn -

    My plate had 8 on the upper line, 6 + 2 at bottom. 16 total.

    There are strong magnets on the sides and they keep catching the screws as you take them out. Tweezers are helpful to fish them.

    Gina Romo -

    At the assembly stage I found it is easier to use Philips PH000 screw driver bit than PH00. It helped me to get these minuscule screws in place, catch the head holes and drive them into their tight position. While using PH00 the driver would not catch the holes in their head and I was risking scratching the display since the screws refused to settle in the openings.

    mxmbulat -

  39. CxMgoBiaS4lKn5Bv
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    • Usa la punta de un spudger para hacerle palanca a la placa de protección del LCD hacia arriba y afuera del iPad.

    • Remueve la placa de protección del LCD.

    You can also just slide it back to expose the cable bracket.

    Will -

  40. JVjQON4Uf164rSBt

    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos Phillips #00 del soporte del cable del display.

    • Un tornillo de 2.7 mm

    • Dos tornillos de 1.4 mm

    Why remove the LDC if the microphones are on the other side?

    Yousef Ghalib -

    PH000 seems to work better to remove these screws.

    Abbot -

  41. oYeEBNO1LcoNTBM1

    • Remueve el soporte del cable del display del iPad.

  42. boJoFdfdJUcOIETu
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    d3HwXqtEak1frRjA

    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar gentilmente el conector de la batería de su socket en la tarjeta lógica.

    • Se muy cuidadoso de solo levantar el conector de la batería, no el socket completamente. Si haces palanca en el socket de la tarjeta lógica, puedes romper el conector por completo.

    • Asegúrate de levantar el conector de la batería antes de intentar cualquier otra reparación dentro de este dispositivo.

    During reassembly, be sure to well press the battery connector in place. Otherwise, you will ave to re open... as I had to do !

    ZARAGOZA -

    Any advice RE reassembly and the adhesive? Just heat and it re-adheres?

    drewmc -

    This step is unnecessary. Or I don't know.

    Clément Marshall -

    This step is unnecessary! I just replaced the screen, and skipped this step!

    trnilsson -

    This step is ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY. If you don’t disconnect the battery FIRST, you risk causing an electrical short that can very easily damage the circuit board and other electronic devices when you unplug them. The only time this is safe is if the battery is completely dead. If you were successful without doing this step, you were really lucky.

    lkw -

    Why risk so much by skipping such a simple step that protects so much. It makes no sense to skip this step.

    lkw -

  43. lrXOXTfactH4SP2I
    lrXOXTfactH4SP2I
    rEpVNL6XEMuRJhAU

    • Usa la punta de una espátula para levantar el conector del LCD de su socket en la tarjeta lógica.

    • No haga palanca contra el IC largo a lado del conector, o puedes romperlo. Gentilmente has palanca desde un lado del conector como se muestra.

    This step i also unnecessary. Just flip the LCD back to uncover the digitizer connector.

    trnilsson -

    Whether this step is necessary depends on what you’re replacing/repairing.

    lkw -

  44. tNFmuEbxooGjnpfB

    • Levanta y remueve el LCD del iPad.

    Please note that there are 2 strips of adhesive on the left and the right side of the display. Use a string or fishing wire to loosen the adhesive. I cracked my LCD and had to order a new one because this step was missing.

    jdmasfuuck -

  45. ZM1XLR2NqYLrDRpy
    ZM1XLR2NqYLrDRpy
    pbVCtfjcuerftHws

    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el conector del cable digitalizador directamente de su socket.

    • Ten cuidado al levantar el conector de su socket-los pines en el socket son extremadamente frágiles y pueden romperse muy fácil!

    During reassembly at this point, be very careful to line up both sides of the connector. I came very close to destroying the digitizer cable connectors because I wasn't paying attention.

    Jeff G -

    I learned the hard way that we should be lifting from the short side of the connector, not the long side as shown here. The gold pins inside the FPC socket are very fragile and more likely to break when lifted as shown in this picture.

    Frank Buccella -

    Yes, I just learned that lesson as well. IMO a bit too ridiculously fragile.

    Daniel -

    Hi, i just broke this micro pins… it’s extremely fragile. Whats the name and were i can found a replacement to this connector? I ll try to find a friend that have a equipment for soldering this…

    Leonardo Marques de Souza -

  46. kJtwfkdC2Y4TsSJo
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    6fapcJEUMHctNSKY

    • Desliza el spudger debajo del lado de la batería de la tarjeta de digitalización para empezar a separarla de su carcasa trasera.

    • Levanta la tarjeta de digitalización para liberar los residuos de adhesivo.

  47. NbbhjcXmlwfVe6gq

    • Levanta y remueve el panel frontal del iPad.

  48. ZMxst2C36s4qgDiI
    ZMxst2C36s4qgDiI
    KIRCwg6dwfRlIIHj
    Qk5UWd3aHLoHRNRe

    • Tu panel de reemplazo puede venir con este cable pre-adherido.

    • En el panel frontal de reemplazo, remueve la pieza pequeña de adhesivo que cubre el cable digitalizador.

    • Dobla el cable digitalizador en si mismo y presiona firmemente para asegurar el adhesivo,

    The old glue was full of tiny shards. I rubbed it all away with many Q-tips and petroleum ether. To protect the LCD I used a sheet of heavy paper. Cleaning took a lot of patience.

    Still should have listened to Mike: The digitizer ribbon cable went between the frame and the panel. It was bent too sharply. Touch worked, but the home button did not. When i tried to reopen, the glass cracked. Big disappointment, but ill try again!

    luc -

    Same here, so suspect I have the same problem, didn't see these comments until after I finished!

    Took me nearly 2 hours to remove the glass because it just shattered even more every time I used the sucker. Used IsoPropanol to clean.

    Checked all was working with the new digitiser and home button by starting iPad before sealing the glass shut, all ok.

    Stuck it all down, home button works occasionally, but also siri bleeps on it's own sometimes as if someones pressing the button. Also, if I press either side of the home button I get a reaction as if I've pressed the home button, or sometimes I get the double tap action and sometimes Siri, makes me think that there is something shorting / touching that shouldn't be, unless it's the ribbon.

    Will order another kit and give it another go shortly as the glass is sure to break when you re-open.

    Barry Tresadern -

    @Barry Tresadern

    I had the same problem with the home button acting crazy. The problem is on the new screen there are metal contacts that are exposed and they are touching the metal frame making it seem the button is being pressed. If you look on the old screen you'll see strips of tape covering these metal contacts. You can either peel them off and put them on the new screen or just use some electrical tape.

    Patrick -

    With this step, im looking for a replacement screen. I cant seem to see the same connector as the one illustrated here. Is there 2 ribbons mixed there?

    James -

    James, I think you're referring to the IC chip that most glass panels do not include. If you do not have soldering knowledge (and a lot of confidence and time) then it's crucial that you purchase a panel that has the IC chip attached, otherwise you will need to remove the old one from the broken assembly and re-solder it on to the new one - honestly not worth the time involved unless you know what you're doing.

    Katie -

    I've been able to replace a shattered screen. Took about an hour and a half. This consisted of mostly cleaning the shards. I wish there were some glue in the kit - I don't know if there is enough left from the previous screen to hold the new one. I'm likely going to use craft glue to make up the difference. Any other suggestions?

    [deleted] -

    Heating the glue with a hair dryer or heat gun helps or you can buy very thin double faced tape.

    Michael Vovaris -

    I thought that it was a successful repair and resealed the iPad and turned it back on after replacing the digitalizer and the LCD screen, yet neither the home button nor the power button are working. After holding the power button, the power will come on but just one "click" the screen does not react. I tried moving the tape around the home button from the broken digitalizer to the new digitalizer, yet neither button works. I need help ASAP, I don't want to damage the iPad screen more by leaving it unopened for extended periods of time. Any suggestions?

    James Johnson -

    the new pannel comes with a yellow tape on those contacts. Do not remove it. (or replace it !)

    ZARAGOZA -

    Yes..do not remove this tape!

    Banu -

    Yes I learned the hard way as well, be sure you leave the yellow plastic tape over the back of the home button and surrounding circuitry or put tape over this area before install. New screen installed and the home button isn't working :-(

    Ken Bauer -

    THANK YOU Patboy2008, you saved me a friendship and a lot of heartache. I was racking my brain trying to figure out why the home button was on the fritz. Siri kept interrupting, the screen would go black, then flick on, then apps would randomly open, then it wouldn't even give me enough time to punch in my passcode. It was all about those two SILLY pieces of tape. Sure enough reopened it and noticed that the new screen didn't have the two black pieces of tape the old screen had. So glad I dug it out of the trash and transferred those pieces. It works like a charm now. Oh and this was so much harder to fix than the iPhones. The hardest part is getting the front panel off and if it's broke it'll come off in the tiniest of pieces. I hard shards of glass in my fingers that you were like invisible splinters. Be careful and take your time with this one.

    iKimmy -

    Thanks for comments. Yes, do pay attention the the metal bands in the bottom frame of the front panel. DO cover a trip of electric tape on it. You will find the random moving and touching away.

    shanhaidong -

    It pays not to take the protectors off the glass panel adhesive until you have fitted the panel and turned on the ipad to test functionality a few times. (Once the adhesive sticks, it's very difficult to take the panel back off.) Also, I ended up applying two layers of electrical tape over the copper contacts on the panel before the random actions stopped. Now I am closing my third repair on the same machine. Let's hope this one sticks.

    philippschuller -

    In a kit purchased in June 2019, this operation was already done.

    Clément Marshall -

  49. UJVVxwx4A6Y4NNxO
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    • Es buen momento para encender tu iPad y probar todas las funciones antes de sellar y colocar el display en su lugar. Asegúrate de apagar tu iPad completamente antes de continuar.

    • Si estas instalando un nuevo conjunto de panel frontal, puede que necesites la siguiente preparación:

    • Despega la larga línea de plástico claro del interior del cristal.

    • Despega cualquier cubierta azul que cubra el adhesivo alrededor del perímetro del conjunto del panel frontal.

    • Una vez removido, las bandas de adhesivo estarán expuestas. No remuevas estas soportes hasta que estés listo para instalar el conjunto de panel frontal.

    • No remuevas ninguna cubierta de cobre de la región indicada, como la cinta amarilla Kapton o cinta de aislar negra.

    • Comprueba que el panel frontal este libre de huellas dactilares y suciedad antes de instalarlo en tu dispositivo.

    I just received a new front planel and the digitizer connector is wrapped in a black electrical tape. I removed to check for the adhesive between circuit and connector but didn't see any, I re-wrapped in the original black tape which I think should be left alone. Also there was a yellow tape over the back of the home button and circuitry between the digitizer cable and home button. I removed this when I removed the blue plastic on the adhesive but I don't think your suppose to. After repair, home button doesn't work which might be because removing that tape.

    Ken Bauer -

  50. Qg36Tv5I1UDRkXbI
    Qg36Tv5I1UDRkXbI
    n5uTLQCOh4lmiOMM

    • Antes de instalar tu nuevo panel frontal, necesitarás transferir el imán de cobertura inteligente de tu viejo panel frontal a tu nuevo panel frontal.

    • Coloca el borde de una herramienta de apertura en cada lado del magneto cerca del borde superior izquierdo en el conjunto del panel frontal.

    • Coloca cuidadosamente el borde de la herramienta de apertura derecha de plástico debajo del imán.

    • Firmemente sostén la herramienta de plástico de apertura derecha en este lugar.

    • Aprieta la herramienta de apertura de plástico izquierda debajo del imán y simultáneamente haz palanca y empújala hacia la herramienta de apertura de plástico derecha.

    • Esto necesitará un poco de fuerza ya que la cubierta del magneto inteligente esta sostenido en su lugar con un fuerte adhesivo.

    On the new front panel with the adhessive pre-installed, there are perforated area on the blue plastic you can peal away just for the magnets without exposing the rest of the adhesive.

    Ken Bauer -

    I found these come off much easier after applying heat to the area for 5 seconds.

    Korey Bennett -

    On the kit purchased in June 2019, magnets were included in the replacement part.

    Clément Marshall -

  51. fXdZIXJ54JbjhvGB

    • Si es necesario, usa un par de pinzas para parcialmente despegar la pieza de cinta que cubre el imán de cobertura inteligente cerca de la esquina izquierda del conjunto de panel frontal.

    In the kit as of July 2019, there is an area of adhesive (separate from the edge adhesive) on the screen where you want to relocate the magnets. It is in the rough shape of the magnet, so you can see how to orient the magnet (curve parallel to the curve of the case corner). When you close up the screen, the magnets fit into the depression above where the tabs of the LCD are (the ones you remove the screws from in step 31). The magnets shouldn’t be too far away from the copper-colored rim of the interior of the screen, or they will not fit into the depression and may crack the screen when you press it to close. Definitely dry fit!

    Sara Austin -

    Hi, I’d like to know if this magnets are necessary to maintain the screen attach, if they do something beside the adhesive. Thank you for your help.

    castrofabian -

  52. mEkCibcPCdYVkGb1
    mEkCibcPCdYVkGb1
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    • Usa el procedimiento descrito anteriormente para remover el imán de cobertura inteligente cerca de la esquina inferior izquierda del conjunto de panel frontal.

  53. 3lgujLNLVPn5UTol
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    • En este paso estarás transfiriendo el imán de cobertura inteligente a el NUEVO conjunto de panel frontal.

    • Usa un par de pinzas para colocar cuidadosamente el imán de cobertura inteligente en su lugar en la parte superior izquierda..

    • Repite el procedimiento con el imán de cobertura inteligente de la parte inferior izquierda.

    • Si es necesario, usa la punta de una herramienta de apertura de plástico para aplanar la pieza de cinta adherida a la parte de abajo izquierda del imán de cobertura inteligente.

    Do not forget to remove the protective film from inside of new digitizer, remove black insulating tape from bottom of old digitizer and place on new one, covering any and all exposed copper. Take your time - the repair is not hard but it is time consuming

    David D -

    Thank you for mentioning that! I don’t think I would have noticed until too late.

    ted -

    BEFORE you close everything up power up your ipad and make sure all the buttons and functions work properly, charging, rotation, home button, sleep button

    Chris Grayden -

    Step 66, it is important to put the magnets in the same Exact place and orientation or you could break the glass (again) during installation.

    Phil Fite -

    The orientation of the magnets may also be important to the devices’s ability to wake/sleep in response to the cover being opened and closed.

    ciradrak -

    No mention is made of using any adhesive during the installation of the new panel. There are gobs of adhesives for many different purposes. Is there any recommendation for re-establishing an adhesive for the new panel?

    Jim Dutton -

    Step 35b : watch for LCD white screw tabs as you pull up LCD panel so that they don't bind at the bottom and break off (definite crack)!

    Jim Dutton -

    Step 46: was easier, at least for me, to insert spudger between frame and digitizer board (left side) rather than trying to get under it from its right side.

    Jim Dutton -

    All of this & they could have simply made the connector cable on the front glass a snap on connector & cut out 60 steps of this repair.

    Gary -

    I was repairing the broken glass on my iPad. A lot of the broken glass was in small fragments along the edges which made sliding the pick underneath to loosen the glass quite difficult. Things would go well until I hit a small island of broken glass and the pick would stall as the glass wouldn’t budge. It took several re-heating cycles with the microwave heat pad and a lot of patience to break those loose. In retrospect, probably could have ignored them until the bulk of the glass was removed and then _gently & patiently_ chisel them out separately.

    Rory Filer -

    Still had ghost touch issue with the iPad mini so I ended up purchasing Kapton tape on Amazon and used it to cover the entire bottom part of the iPad mini 2 where the Home button is, not just the gold connectors as previously suggested. Apparently this is a common issue with the iPad minis where the digitizer and home button are grounded to the iPad’s chassis. Thankfully, that resolved the issues of ghost touch and my daughter’s iPad is now working like a charm. Just wished your iFixit digitizers were properly prepped with Kapton tape from the factory. Hope this helps with other iFixit customers suffering from the same issue.

    Yousef Ghalib -

    I believe I finally figured out the issue with the iPad mini. I feel like an idiot! It was improper installation. Ghosting on a the iPad mini was caused by creasing the digitizer flex incorrectly. It can NOT be allowed to bend backwards and touch the adhesive for the screen (I checked--mine and was bent backwards and creased due to it sticking to the adhesive). The flex must gently bow forward towards the LCD and not be allowed to crease. Unfortunately the digitizer is compromised and unusable. We’ll need a new digitizer but this time I wont make the same mistake

    Yousef Ghalib -

    One of the more difficult/frustrating issues I had during reassembly was the tendency of the digitizer cable to place itself between the frame & the glass. This prevented the glass from seating completely in the frame & I believe would have caused damage to the ribbon cable had I not noticed it. I had to use a flat tool to guide the ribbon cable away from the frame as I lowered the glass into place. I am not in a position to do it, but I hope a reassembly document will be added to these instructions, as it’s not simply a matter of “following the instructions in reverse order.”!!!

    kevs -

    Good tip! I replaced a digitizer myself after a shop had done it once already. Aside from new cracks, there were problems with dead spots on the screen, and the lock button would shut down but not sleep the screen. The screen I took off looked like the digitizer cable had been pinched like you noted, and I wonder if that was causing the problems.

    ted -

    If your ipad has a dented corner, you may need to trim the new glass a bit so that it fits flush. The ipad I worked on had been dented in the corner, which what cracked the screen in the first place. The dent pushed in the metal lip enough that a replacement screen would sit on top of it, so that a little too much pressure on the glass will make it crack again. A diamond-coated file will work to file off some of the glass on the corner. Full sized Leatherman multi-tools often have a diamond coating on the back side of the coarse file — it works great. Just be patient as it takes a while to grind off.

    ted -

    You Could Add One more Step: When assembling the screen it is necessary to tuck the digitizer cable back into the tablet as it wants to fold toward the outer edge and prevent the digitizer glass assembly from laying flat against the framework. You can do that with a Spudger by pushing the cabole back into the tablet as you close or seat the glass digitizer.

    Larry Bennett -

    At which step during reassembly to remove blue protective film on the adhesive is never mentioned. I did it too early and thought of preserving it with cling film which does not peel off afterwards. Don't do this. I suggest removing this stuff just before turning “the page” back on.

    Clément Marshall -

    Where can you buy the magnets? (not from ifixit)

    Inhumane Resources -

    There is no mention anywhere about ingress of dust between the cover glass and the LCD…is this a nonissue??

    Jordan Clayson -

Conclusión

Para reensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

Autor

Sam Goldheart

Miembro Desde 19/10/12

457951 Reputación

51 comentarios

Step 16 through step 24

I made a mess:

- I slid the picks all around the glass breaking the glass, the antenna and digit cables.

What do I need to fix it ? I have already ordered by you a front glass and a a logic board

(LCD I have it already). What do I need more ?

Pls. Help

Sergio Ungaro

su40 -

Hey, I have a big problem.

I did all this steps and everything was fine so i put it together. Now I have a ghost-touch if i press the margin at the right edge. I didn't remove the yellow stripe and i thing the cable is not between the frame and the metal.

thx

David -

Had the same issue. Just use Kapton tape and cover the bottom part of the ipad where the Home button is. What’s causing the issue is grounding thus the ghost touch. Search or “Ipad mini ghost touch kapton” on YouTube. Hope this helps.

Yousef Ghalib -

THE LCD SCREEN IS EXTREMELY FRAGILE

you will crack it with the slightest bend. This is crucial as you try to free it from the STRONG adhesive tape at the bottom speakers. This tutorial has no mention of how careful you have to be with the LCD, or how much stronger the adhesion is in this area, but then again, you can always purchase a new LCD from iFixit, riiiiight?

James Billy -

Good info! Thanx

thomas -

THE LCD IS EXTREMELY FRAGILE. SUPER HIGH WARNING.

You WILL shatter the lcd with the slightest bend. This is critical when you are attempting to free it from the speaker adhesive tape (steps 34-36). The fragility of the lcd screen and the high adhesive strength at the bottom are NOT MENTIONED at all in this how-to, but then again, you can always purchase a new LCD screen from iFixit, riiiiiiiiiigt?

James Billy -

Need input please. install of new glass went off without a hitch, straight forward, however with one little problem. The home button on the new glass does not work. everything else works like it should.... What now?

nkorodimas -

Same problem as nkorodimas. Everything seems to work fine but the home button. Trying to perform a restore results in an update error and then tries to carry out the restore again. Any advice?

Simon Hillman -

Most likely the front panel connector was not fully inserted or there is debris in the front panel connector. Worst case, the ribbon cable responsible for connecting the home button was damaged during reassembly.

Jeff G -

It would be good to mention the smart cover magnets earlier in the procedure -- especially for those people that are replacing a very smashed front panel. I had to go hunting through a pile of broken glass and adhesive to find the magnets. It would have been good to be aware that they are attached to the front panel and to watch out for them.

Jeff G -

You should always read the complete procedure BEFORE beginning the procedure. That way, you usually eliminate any surprises.

Tomme Foster -

lcd is bonded to body with adhesive and is extremely fragile, this is not mentioned, also when placing the new digitizer you can not just simply folllow the guide in the reverse order because DIGITIZER CABLE GETS STUCK BETWEEN THE GLASS AND BODY. this causes glass lifting up and digitizer cable to get damaged. reckless guide, 2/10

omergezer -

I agree. I had to carefully manipulate the cable with a flat tool to get it to stay away from the frame. Luckily I didn’t break the cable before I noticed it’s position. I had several fitment problems, so I started over with a new adhesive kit. My problems with fitment were because the frame was slightly bent & a dent in the side needed to be filed down to allow the glass to fit properly. The adhesive kit did not come with any instructions, but luckily I was able to figure out in which order to peel the plastic covers. The strips did not come packaged as in the picture & had sticky clear plastic sheets on both sides & the actual adhesive backing was clear, making it difficult to know which to peel off first.

kevs -

Went smoothly for the most part. LCD ended up cracked as well. Was not a result of disassembly. Thanks for the guide. It was detailed and certainly helped with the disassembly.

JNoles -

I have reused the digitizer after replacing the LCD. I don't have any response from about a quarter of the screen each side (left and right). I did try covering the copper but didn't make much difference.

Any ideas??

Stephen -

Sounds like either the touch IC on the screen has been moved or the digi has been broken in some place. I'd reccomend a new digi that should solve the touch issues, if it has the IC pre soldered makes the job a lot easier.

maddog256 -

Quick question! I got a small piece of glass on the LCD screen, and it left a white mark. Now I'm trying to figure out if that wrecked the LCD screen, or if that isn't going to matter. Because the last thing I want to do is put it all back together and see that the LCD screen is messed up. Any advice?

cpecrivaine -

More than likely just gonna to leave a mark on the LCD it wont effect usage you will see it there in use though, 9 times out of 10 it'll all function fine with no issues

maddog256 -

First I broke the LCD as well (my bad) :(

when all was finished, you apparently need to follow a (only 1 correct) sequence to reassemble the ribbons, so i blew up an (for me) not repareable fuse on the mother board ... so had to throw all away :(

however was my first mishap after fixing quit a lot of diffrent versions of iphones, so it was learners money spent ...

erwinvrieze -

Performed the repair and was extremely careful! The ipad powers up and the home button works, but the screen is not responding to touch?

Gerald Shea -

Finished the repair yesterday and have been using the iPad for last 24 hours and everything seems to be working great. Like a couple of others have mentioned, be sure to read all the instructions AND comments before starting. For example, knowing ahead of time that you need to remove the magnets from the touch panel glass to reuse is very important. My front panel was completely shattered and came off in pieces, so I probably would have missed that if I had not read the instructions first.

For a shattered screen like mine, the suction cup doesn't work. I used Duck Tape to hold the screen somewhat together and folded tabs into the Duck Tape so I had something to hang on to. Take your time and be patient on Steps 32 to 36 so you don't damage the LCD. I read the instructions and comments and took my time loosening the adhesive.

At the end, I left the covering on the adhesive on the touch panel and powered it up to be sure it worked before I exposed the adhesive and put it together.

cbrouwer -

Thanks for the tip

Pa Du -

this is a very comprehensive guide. all i can say is thanks so much! i've been fearing this repair but feel much better now.

Benedict Kim -

Great guide. Very comprehensive. Make sure the home button works properly on your replacement part and is aligned correctly before you start . Beware the white / black border of the digitiser scratches very easily.

Ian Cockett -

i replaced the screen and digitizer but the the touch screen is unresponsive. i know pluged the digitizer in.

Taylor youngreen (Kodi4444) -

I held the power button and the home button and the apple icon popped up and i think it just restarted and now it works

Taylor youngreen (Kodi4444) -

My digitizer glass is completely shattered, so it came off in many many pieces. I can’t find even one smart magnet. We don’t use a magnetic cover for the ipad, so can I continue without the smart magnets?

MATTHEW MALONEY -

Just repaired my iPad Mini 2, the Guide is very thorough. Only problem is that now my “Power” button works only to make the iPad Start or Shutdown (no “wake” function more). The home button does not work, the accelerometers seems not to work anymore as the Screen Rotation does not work anymore. Plus I get some random “sleep” of the iPad during operation. I guess I’ll need to open it all over again :S

Athos Bernardes -

What made this repair difficult for me was that my screen was significantly cracked and there is no easy way to get it out. It broke a lot more and made a huge mess. I ended up having glass at the top and bottom that I had to basically use the metal spudger to completely remove it.

I recommend covering the LCD with a large cloth while you work to remove all the broken bits of screen. This will help avoid getting finger prints on it or tiny pieces of glass on it. If you do get tiny glass particles on he LCD I recommend using compressed air to remove the glass. If you try to wipe it off it will scratch the LCD.

The other hard part of this repair was replacing the magnets for the sleep functionality to work properly. I did not buy my replacement screen from iFixit which may have been a mistake. I have heard that some of the 3rd party screens don’t work well on replacing the magnets. One of my magnets also broke. I wish that the replacement screens game with the magnets pre-installed in the correct places.

Derrick F -

Thx for the instructions. Fits like a glove and Works ;)

Cheers

TMo

Timo Wolf -

When reassembling and replacing the LCD shield plate, the tiny screws will want to jump onto the magnets on the left side. I used the combination of tweezers and the philips driver to push the screws into the holes.

scotttroyer -

Ok I powered it up the first time and the screen lit up and apple stuff came up but the next time I powered it up nothing on the screen. When I connect the charger u can hear the noise to start changing but nothing on screen??? What did I do wrong?

KC Gaeth -

Ok so the instructions worked great but the home button no longer works?!! Help!

Ana Stempel -

I was not that careful with getting the lcd out, so I damaged it and had to buy a new one. Also, the digitizer I bought from ebay did not have the circuit for the wake sensor, so sleep/wake with cover was not working (note that the magnets are only for holding the cover in place). Did not mind that so much, but the replacement I bought was so bad that the button broke within two months, so I replaced digitizer again, this time with a quality one. Now it works fine, except for the lcd flickering occasionally, which gets fixed by putting the ipad face down on a table and knocking it on the edges with my hand. Don’t know what causes that, but I am reluctant to open it again. With the extra parts I ordered the cost was almost equal to a professional replacement, which may (or may not) have had better end result. But learned some things along too ;)

Stavros Vachtsevanos -

I believe I finally figured out the issue with the iPad mini ghost touch after installing a new digitizer. I feel like an idiot! It was improper installation. Ghosting on a the iPad mini was caused by creasing the digitizer flex incorrectly. It can NOT be allowed to bend backwards and touch the adhesive for the screen (I checked--mine and was bent backwards and creased due to it sticking to the adhesive). The flex must gently bow forward towards the LCD and not be allowed to crease. Unfortunately the digitizer is compromised and unusable. We’ll need a new digitizer but this time I wont make the same mistake.

Yousef Ghalib -

Great guide for repair, my only hiccup was the darn home button working, had to take the tape covering the contacts on the old screen off and move them to the new one.

Overall, it was a great experience!

Chuck Kintz -

On my repair, the black tape covering the home button peeled off when I removed the tape covering the adhesive strip on the front glass. I have not had an issue with the operation tho. Also, the instructions don’t make any mention of removing the old adhesive around the edge of the case. I did it, as I assumed that the adhesive on the glass plus the old adhesive would have caused a fit problem. My digitizer connector did not have foam on its back & the old foam was not removable. I hope that will not be an issue.

Kev

kevin stephen -

I certainly appreciate the effort that went into providing these instructions, but unfortunately the reassembly is totally ignored. It is NOT just a matter of reversing the disassembly instructions! As evidenced in some of the above comments, reassembly issues have been the cause of quite a few problems.

kevin stephen -

Excellent! Great for those without broken screens. Even with a broken screen, it still suffices for a break-down of all the important steps and things to watch out for. For my second and more successful repair on an iPad Mini 2, I would highly recommend the iOpener to help. FOLLOW the directions, or expect other results.

David M -

What about the Home button!?!?!?

mamashannon4u -

Thanks for a great repair guide!! I’ve used your guide twice with sucess!

jamieoyakawa -

FWIW - my replacement front panel came with the magnets attached. Thanks for this guide. I did spend an extra 10 minutes using “Goof Off Pro Strength” on the chassis rim to get the glue remnants off before reassembly.

Chris Johnston -

Worked great. Thanks so much for the excellent guide. My digitizer is fixed and the iPad is up and running perfectly again!

Adam Isgreen -

Very difficult assembly, but doable. My glass had shattered before I started, and that made the removal quite difficult. With a shattered screen, the suction cup is worthless, and I had to remove the shards of glass piecemeal. A handy tip: If the tweezers you use get too sticky with adhesive, use acetone to clean off the adhesive. That really helps.

echevlen -

Worked fine. You need to be careful about where you put tape if the glass is cracked so that the suction cup sticks, and you may need to slide picks in other places to work around those cracks.

It would be nice if the guide explained how to put the new adhesive on. I had to guess, and don’t think I did it exactly right.

Alex Thaler -

Where can you buy the magnets? (not from ifixit)

Inhumane Resources -

Thanks for the easy to follow guide. It only took 1 hour and 15 minutes it’s like a new ipad

Rob from Rush

carpetlayer -

Is it necessary to transfer the magnets?

addy -

Fairly straight forward with the following comments:

1. The iOpener should be HOT. Hot enough so you can only hold it by its handles. Then the adhesive will soften up, but a “warm” iOpener is not sufficient

2. I used dental floss to remove the LCD, worked perfectly, thanks for the tip!

3. The replacement front had some protective film on the BACK side as well? When I assembled it I noticed “bubbles” in the scene of the kind that you get when you apply a protective screen. But I have no protective screen and now its too late to fix…

4. The digitiser cable gets crammed between the body and the front panel if you don’t pay attention to it during reassembly

5. Ohh, and the magnets….

Carl Grufman -

Not a comment more of a question. When i screwed back in the screws on slide 39 i failed to see that one is slightly longer than the others. This resulted in the screw bracket coming away from the board. Does this matter?? The screen wont work now and was before this. Its the only thing i can think of that could have caused the problem. I tired the screen in an ipad mini one to see if the screen would, it did not :( I just used the glass to fix the ipad mini one and its perfect. I really don’t think there’s a problem with the lcd as i was super careful taking it out. Any thoughts anybody??

George -

Just finished in a little more than 1 hour (no rush, just to give a hint). I have two kits with two iOpener, it speeds up things a bit. And it’s my second time opening this iPad, after a battery replacement two years ago.

You shoud add hints a to remove protective adhesives before assembling it back, I almost forgot to remove the inside one of the glass :). And also one should be careful when removing the red tape from the glass (that marks the digitizer) : I peeled it a little too fast and some residue stayed, fortunately it’s not visible once finished.

Oh in fact it is a real step in the english tutorial, not in the french translation.

[Pour les francophones, vérifier la version anglaise qui donne plus de détails par endroits :) ]

Nevermind, a lot of help here again, thanks everyone :)

jacquesbressin -