Reemplazo del conjunto de panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA

Paso 1

Te recomendamos que limpies tu microondas antes de continuar, ya que cualquier suciedad desagradable en la parte inferior puede terminar pegado al iOpener.
Coloca el iOpener en el centro del microondas.
Para microondas giratorios: Asegúrate de que la placa gira libremente. Si el iOpener se queda atascado, puede sobrecalentarse y quemarse.

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - 06/12/16

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - 29/12/16

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - 30/01/17

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - 19/07/17

Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

Yousef Ghalib - 16/09/17

I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

ian cheong - 22/06/19

Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

Tim Feyaerts - 13/07/19

The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

polleyphony - 28/12/19

The iOpener did not work at all for me.

I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

Mike Jeanette - 29/12/19

Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

Kyle - 05/01/20

The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

laurentvidu - 01/02/20

I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

breadandbits - 24/07/20

My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

trebor65 - 11/10/20

My experience pt2

Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

trebor65 - 11/10/20

Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

gazza667 - 16/11/20

I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

Dennis - 10/01/21

Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

Manu R - 05/02/21

If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

mpulliam - 07/02/21

Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

Esmond Pitt - 03/04/21

Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

doug - 23/04/21

I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

Richard O'Brien - 22/05/21

No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

nin10doh -

#### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

T z - 06/06/21

I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

Mizzoo, s.r.o. -

I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

Randal Haufler -

I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

janderson martin -

WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

Run Up A Tree -

I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

marcelflueeler -

I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

Tom Weber -

iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

jharrison -

Paso 2

Calienta el iOpener durante treinta segundos.
A lo largo del procedimiento de reparación, en cuanto el iOpener se enfríe, vuelve a calentarlo en el microondas treinta segundos más cada vez.
Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante la reparación. El sobrecalentamiento puede provocar que el iOpener se rompa.
Nunca toques el iOpener si parece estar hinchado.
Si el iOpener esta todavía demasiado caliente al tacto, sigue utilizándolo mientras esperas a que se enfríe un poco más antes de recalentar. Un iOpener adecuadamente climatizado debe mantenerse caliente durante un máximo de 10 minutos.

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - 22/12/16

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - 13/01/17

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - 14/07/17

There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

assortedrubbish - 29/08/17

All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

Greg Latta - 12/09/19

I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

dave - 01/12/17

If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

Patrick Storey - 01/01/18

I agree with this.

Jarl Friis -

I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

mark fitzgerald - 24/04/18

30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

K

Karl Marble - 06/07/18

I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

Bernhard Keim - 30/01/19

Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

Collins -

Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

Larry Bennett - 24/02/19

I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

Fixrights - 30/04/19

iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

digital_only - 13/10/19

Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

Berard Romain - 23/12/19

Bonjour,

Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

Claire Miesch - 23/12/19

Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

breadandbits - 24/07/20

Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

G Trieste - 05/02/21

Get a heat gun.

alesha adamson - 09/09/20

I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

Dennis - 31/01/21

I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

cvela90 - 23/06/21

After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

Collins -

It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

Sergey Kofanov -

I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

manningrl -

You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

William Draheim -

Paso 3

Saca el iOpener del microondas, tomándolo por una de las esquinas planas para evitar el centro caliente.
El iOpener estará muy caliente, ten cuidado cuando lo manipules. Utiliza guantes de horno si es necesario.

I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

Cobus de Beer - 22/07/18

I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

Billinski -

Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

breadandbits - 24/07/20

I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

John - 07/09/20

I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

Robin - 02/10/20

This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

Mark -

If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

Jarl Friis -

Paso 4

Si no tienes un microondas, sigue este paso para calentar su iOpener en agua hirviendo.
Llena una olla o cacerola con suficiente agua para sumergir completamente el iOpener.
Calienta el agua hasta que hierva. Apaga el fuego.
Coloca un iOpener en el agua caliente durante 2-3 minutos. Asegúrate de que el iOpener esté completamente sumergido en el agua.
Utiliza unas pinzas para extraer el iOpener calentado del agua caliente.
Seca bien el iOpener con una toalla.
El iOpener estará muy caliente, así que ten cuidado de sujetarlo sólo por las lengüetas de los extremos.
Tu iOpener está listo para ser utilizado. Si necesita recalentar el iOpener, calienta el agua hasta que hierva, apaga el fuego y coloca el iOpener en el agua durante 2-3 minutos.

What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

alexdelarge103@gmail.com -

Use a hair dryer

Edited To the max -

2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

Robert Garcia -

When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

Robert Garcia -

Paso 5

Si el vidrio de tu pantalla está agrietado, mantén la rotura contenida y evita daños corporales durante la reparación pegando el vidrio con cinta adhesiva.
Coloca tiras superpuestas de cinta transparente de embalaje sobre la pantalla del iPad hasta cubrir toda la cara.
Esto mantendrá los fragmentos de vidrio contenidos y proporcionará integridad estructural al hacer palanca y levantar la pantalla.
Haz tu mejor esfuerzo para seguir el resto de la guía como se describe. Sin embargo, una vez que se rompe el vidrio, es probable que continúe agrietándose a medida que trabajas, y es posible que necesites utilizar una herramienta de palanca de metal para sacar el cristal.
Usa gafas de seguridad para proteger sus ojos, y ten cuidado de no dañar la pantalla LCD.

In case of broken glass, here are some hints:

- I prefer 3M "3350" tape; a metalized polypropylene tape with an acrylic adhesive. It's a very thin, silvery HVAC tape, not your standard duct tape.

- Test your tape to make sure it sticks really well to the glass.

- Use isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel to remove fingerprints and other dirt to help the tape stick to the screen.

- Use the widest tape you can find, and apply it evenly, without trapping bubbles, without crinkles: This greatly improves your chance of success with the suction cup later.

- Cut tape pieces long enough and go over the (rounded) edge; afterwards carefully run a scalpel alongside the edge (between bezel and glass) to trim off any excess.

- Don't overlap edges of the tape: butt-join them instead.

- If needed: repeat in other direction.

- If needed: Cut square piece of tape (size of suction cup) and place it where you want to lift the glass, so that the suction cup doesn't cover any butt-joins.

Good luck, you brave person!

volty - 30/03/16

This is the second broken screen I’ve fixed. Overlapped package tape carefully stuck to the glass and trimmed to the edges will contain most of the shards. I found that a hair dryer works for softening the glue. After getting under an edge with the suction cup I carefully followed the opening sequence using a combination of plastic picks and a single edge razor blade to get under the small pieces. It was slow going with lots of reheating with the dryer (about 45 minutes), but the taped glass came off without glass everywhere.

Bill Roughen - 05/12/17

Paso 6

Manipulándolo por la pestaña, coloca el iOpener calentado en el lateral del iPad a la izquierda del ensamblaje del botón de inicio.
Deja que el iOpener repose durante aproximadamente cinco minutos para ablandar el adhesivo debajo del vidrio.

I worked at it for over 2 hours before deciding to microwave the opener for 45 seconds at a time. That seemed to do the trick.

jaromhyde - 19/12/15

Paso 7

Coloca con cuidado una ventosa hasta la mitad del lado calentado.
Asegúrate de que la ventosa esté completamente plana en la pantalla para obtener un sello hermético.
Mientras sostienes el iPad hacia abajo con una mano, jala hacia arriba la ventosa para separar ligeramente el vidrio del panel frontal de la caja trasera.
Ten cuidado de solo levantar el vidrio lo suficiente como para insertar una púa de apertura, y puede correr el riesgo de agrietar el vidrio.

This step is totally pointless if you have a shattered screen. The suction cup is rendered useless. Any tips on what to do if you can't get any suction due to a shattered screen?

robloomis - 16/07/15

just pick out the glass shards if it is cracked that bad you are better off scrapping the digitizer

Ethan Chow - 24/12/15

for shattered screens I cover the screen with tape. I find packing tape works best for me.

George - 02/01/16

Paso 8

Mientras sostienes el vidrio con la ventosa, desliza la punta de una púa de apertura en el espacio entre el vidrio y el cuerpo del iPad.
No insertes la púa de apertura más profundo que el bisel negro en el costado de la pantalla. Insertar demasiado la púa puede dañar el LCD.
Tira de la protuberancia de plástico de la ventosa para liberar el sello de vacío y retira la ventosa del ensamblaje de la pantalla.

you have to pull up on the suction cup harder than you might be comfortable with!

jfaulks1 - 17/01/19

thanks jfaulks1 (I did not copy and paste lol)

iliketrains kid -

Paso 9

Vuelve a calentar y vuelve a aplicar el iOpener.
Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante el procedimiento de reparación. Siempre espera al menos diez minutos antes de volver a calentar el iOpener.
Déjalo reposar durante unos minutos para recalentar el borde izquierdo del iPad.

Paso 10

Coloque una segunda apertura junto con la primera y deslice la selección hacia abajo a lo largo del borde del iPad, liberando el adhesivo sobre la marcha.
Durante el resto del procedimiento, si encuentra una resistencia significativa a las puntas deslizantes debajo del cristal, deténgase y recaliente la sección en la que está trabajando. Forzar los picos corre el riesgo de romper el cristal.

Paso 11

Continúa moviendo la palanca de apertura por el lateral de la pantalla para liberar el adhesivo.
Si la púa de apertura se atasca en el adhesivo, "enrolla" la púa a lo largo del lateral del iPad, y continúa soltando el adhesivo.

Paso 12

Toma la primera púa que insertaste y deslízala hacia arriba en dirección a la esquina superior del iPad.
Si puedes ver la punta de la púa de apertura a través del vidrio frontal, no te asustes, simplemente tira de la púa un poco. Lo más probable es que todo esté bien, pero trata de evitar esto ya que puede depositar adhesivo en la parte frontal de la pantalla LCD que es difícil de limpiar.

Paso 13

Vuelve a calentar el iOpener y colócalo en el borde superior del iPad, sobre la cámara frontal.
Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante el procedimiento de reparación. Espera al menos diez minutos antes de volver a calentar el iOpener. .
Si tienes un iOpener flexible, puedes doblarlo para calentar tanto la esquina superior izquierda como el borde superior al mismo tiempo

I left my iOpener on the bezel the entire time I slid picks in. worked great

jfaulks1 - 17/01/19

Paso 14

Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda del iPad para separar el adhesivo.

Gezz this is though! Cracked the glass while replacing it.

Padraic Hoselton - 26/02/18

:( sad (rip glass lol)

iliketrains kid -

Paso 15

Desliza el púa de apertura a lo largo del borde superior del iPad, deteniéndote justo antes de llegar a la cámara.
La tercera imagen muestra dónde se encuentran la cámara frontal y la carcasa en el iPad.
Evita deslizar la púa de apertura sobre la cámara orientada hacia la parte frontal, ya que podrías untar el adhesivo sobre la lente o dañar la cámara. Los siguientes pasos detallan la mejor manera de evitar perturbar la cámara orientada hacia delante.

Paso 16

Tira ligeramente de la púa y desliza la punta suavemente a lo largo de la parte superior de la sección de la cámara frontal del borde superior.

Paso 17

Deja la púa de apertura en el iPad un poco más allá de la cámara frontal.
Toma una segunda púa e insértela a la izquierda de la cámara, donde estaba la primera púa. Deslízala hacia la esquina para cortar completamente el adhesivo restante.
Deja la segunda púa en su lugar para evitar que el adhesivo de esquina vuelva a sellarse a medida que se enfría.

Paso 18

Inserta la púa anterior más profundamente en el iPad y deslízala lejos de la cámara hacia la esquina.

Shattered my screen pretty bad here, making it so that whenever I continued to move the pick the glass separated and I couldn’t continue moving it. Be VERY gentle moving the pick; almost no force is required.

Jasper Holden - 25/08/19

Paso 19

Deja las tres púas en las esquinas del iPad para evitar volver a adherir el adhesivo del panel frontal.
Vuelve a calentar el iOpener y colócalo en el lado largo restante del iPad, a lo largo de los botones de volumen y bloqueo.

Paso 20

Desliza la púa de apertura superior derecha alrededor de la esquina para liberar completamente el borde superior del vidrio.
Deja esta púa en su lugar para evitar que el adhesivo vuelva a sellarse, y toma una nueva púa para el siguiente paso.

Paso 21

Inserta una nueva púa de apertura y deslízala al medio del borde derecho del iPad, liberando el adhesivo sobre la marcha.

Paso 22

Continúa deslizando la púa a lo largo del borde derecho del iPad, liberando el adhesivo.

Paso 23

Deja las púas de apertura en su lugar y recalienta el iOpener.
Recuerda que no debes sobrecalentar el iOpener, no más de una vez cada diez minutos.
Coloca el iOpener recalentado en el extremo del botón de inicio del iPad y déjalo reposar durante unos minutos para suavizar el adhesivo debajo del cristal.

Paso 24

Desliza la púa inferior izquierda a la esquina inferior izquierda para cortar el adhesivo en esa esquina.
Deja la púa en la esquina. No te entrometas más y no retires la púa del iPad.
Hay bastantes cosas que evitar debajo del bisel inferior, así que estudia la tercera imagen detenidamente:
Antenas
Cavidad del botón de inicio
Cable digitalizador
Los siguientes pasos le indicarán dónde debes hacer palanca para evitar daños en estos componentes. Sólo aplica calor y haz palanca donde se te indique.

Paso 25

Deja la púa del último paso en su lugar para evitar que el adhesivo vuelva a sellar.
Con una nueva púa, corta suavemente sobre la antena izquierda, deteniéndote antes del botón de inicio.
Sólo desliza la púa desde el borde exterior hacia el centro del iPad. No vuelvas a mover la púa hacia el borde exterior, ya que si lo haces podría dañar la antena.
Si necesitas deslizar la púa sobre la sección inferior más de una vez, quítala y vuelve a insertarla en el borde exterior, y deslízala hacia dentro.
Deja la púa en su sitio antes de seguir adelante.

Paso 26

Inserta la punta de una última selección junto a la púa del paso anterior y deslízala debajo del botón de inicio.
Inserta la púa un poco más profunda y trabaje de nuevo hacia el botón de inicio.
Inserta la púa un poco más profunda y trabaja de nuevo hacia el botón de inicio.
Nuevamente, asegúrate de deslizar la uña hacia el centro del iPad sólo cuando esté completamente insertada; de lo contrario, podría dañar la antena debajo del vidrio.

Paso 27

Recalienta y vuelve a aplicar el iOpener a la parte superior del bisel del iPad.

Paso 28

Ten mucho cuidado con este paso. Tómate tu tiempo y asegúrate de que el adhesivo está caliente y suave, y de que has pasado por todo el adhesivo con una púa de apertura. No tengas miedo de parar y recalentar.
En la parte superior del iPad, opuesta al botón de inicio, deberías tener una púa alojada en cada esquina. Gira las púas para levantar ligeramente el vidrio, separando el último adhesivo a lo largo de los cuatro bordes.
Si encuentras una cantidad significativa de resistencia, deja de girar. Deja las púas en su sitio, recalienta y vuelve a aplicar el iOpener en las zonas problemáticas y pase una púa por el punto de pegado una vez más.

Paso 29

Levanta lentamente y con cuidado para separar aún más el adhesivo a lo largo del borde inferior.

Really, add a few more pics and a few more picks, see how long and difficult you can make this guide. 26 steps to get the top screen off is ridiculous.

B. A. Computer Services - 17/01/23

Paso 30

Una vez separado todo el adhesivo, abre el cristal frontal como si fuera una página de un libro y apóyalo en tu espacio de trabajo.
Si vuelves a utilizar el montaje del panel frontal durante el reensamblaje, deberás sustituir el adhesivo de la pantalla. Utiliza nuestra guía de aplicación de adhesivo de pantalla para volver a aplicar el adhesivo de pantalla y volver a sellar el dispositivo.

I recommend wearing latex gloves or be sure not to put too many finger prints on the front or back of this front glass when lifting it or completing the remainder of the steps. I made this mistake and upon installing the new LCD and putting the iPad back together I realized that I left a few finger prints on the inside of the front glass. After re-securing the adhesive strips putting the iPad back together there are now unremovable fingerprints visible when the LCD is turned off. Just a recommendation on the gloves or be sure to wipe both sides of the front glass clean before putting all back together.

Christian Screen - 13/01/20

Paso 31

La carcasa de la cámara frontal puede pegarse al panel frontal; despega la carcasa y colócala de nuevo sobre la cámara para protegerla.
Mueve la carcasa de la cámara hacia arriba en un borde para liberarla del adhesivo y retírala del panel frontal.
Vuelve a colocar la carcasa de la cámara frontal delante en su hueco en la carcasa trasera.

this didn’t happen to me BUT the glue was still sticking to the top of the glass because one pick had gone OVER the glue and the other under, so I had to pull the glue off and cut it with scissors

jfaulks1 - 17/01/19

OK this was glue, it was the tape from step 35!

jfaulks1 - 17/01/19

Paso 32

Pequeñas piezas de cinta de espuma cubren los tornillos del superior e inferior de la mano derecha que aseguran el LCD en la carcasa trasera.
Usa pinzas para despegar y remover la pieza rectangular de cinta de pieza de espuma que cubre los tornillos del LCD.
Remueve la cubierta triangular de cinta que cubre los tornillos del LCD.

Paso 33

El tornillo derecho del LCD puede que este cubierto con cinta adhesiva del panel frontal.
Si hay cinta presente, usa la punta de una espátula para retirar la cinta, exponiendo así el tornillo del LCD por debajo.

Paso 34

Remueve los cuatro tornillos Phillips #000 de 3.9 mm que aseguran el LCD a la carcasa trasera.

In my case the 4 screws are not the same. One is 4mm, and 3 of 3.5mm, or better 2 x 3.5mm and one 3.45mm. I put the longest one at the left edge at left of the LCD flat cable.

mitja

Mitja Jankovic - 21/06/14

Hi Mitja. I just checked the measurements with an electronic digital caliper. I got 3.9 mm for all four screws. Are you sure it was the same model? Thanks.

Walter Galan - 15/07/14

The top left screw is longer than the other 3 - iPad mini Retina Wi-Fi.

sandro - 24/11/14

On mine the top right screw is longer

oliver - 25/05/17

top right is longer on an ipad mini 2 retina wifi 32GB

sagert - 15/01/18

ipad mini wifi no screws are longer

iliketrains kid -

Paso 35

Usa un par de pinzas para despegar la pieza pequeña de cinta que conecta el marco del LCD a la bocina derecha.

I wonder what does this sticker stands for…

K8L - 02/02/18

what sticker?

iliketrains kid -

Paso 36

Una tira delgada de cinta de espuma en el marco del LCD está cubriendo una pieza de cinta que conecta el LCD a el panel debajo de él. Para continuar, tendrás que romper y despegar algo de la cinta de espuma para exponer la cinta escondida debajo.
Usa un par de pinzas para jalar la parte superior de la cinta de espuma que cubre el LCD.
Ten cuidado de no tocar el LCD con las pinzas, ya que podrías dañar el display.
Usa las pinzas para despegar la cinta de espuma para exponer la parte superior del LCD.

Paso 37

Inserte la punta de un spudger entre el marco del LCD y la cinta en el superior del LCD.
Desliza el spudger a lo largo del espacio entre el marco del LCD y la cinta, separando la cinta del marco del LCD.

I finished a successful replacement of my screen following these instructions. Thanks.

Step 36 (remove tape from LCD perimeter), however, seems unnecessary. I ended up spending a lot of time separating the tape from the LCD frame only to discover it was not necessary for steps 37-44 and actually made things really difficult for step 45-46 (removing the tape near the speakers). Finally, steps 45-46 can be skipped since it is much easier to remove this tape once you flip the LCD over (Step 55).

Kenneth Snyder - 17/04/17

Paso 38

El LCD está pegado a la protección de metal del LCD que esta atrás de el a lo largo de los bordes superior, izquierdo y derecho. En orden para aflojar este adhesivo, estarás usando un plumilla para mover el LCD unos milímetros de izquierda a derecha varias veces.
Inserte una plumilla en el hueco entre el LCD y la carcasa trasera, cerca del lado izquierdo superior de la LCD.
Dobla la púa un poco, lo suficiente para hacer el hueco entre el LCD y la carcasa trasera más grande.

I found a very simple method for removing the LCD from the metal shield. Slightly lift one of the top corners and insert a 1' piece of fishing line. Insert the line under the other top corner placing the length between the LCD and shield. Once in place, gently pull each end toward the bottom of the LCD breaking the adhesive as you go. This will make things much easier than using the picks and possibly breaking the LCD.

bababooey - 17/07/17

The fishing line trick is amazing… although i had already broken the LCD when i saw that comment. Good Learn!

Brandon Lukasik - 24/10/17

This step is what destroys my LCDs :(

Dan Harris - 18/12/17

Just destroyed my LCD as well. A red warning remarking is missing here! The LCD assembly is very fragile an cannot be bent, even slightly!!

brauliox - 15/09/18

I have broken about 10 of the 50 or so iPad minis that I have repaired. I always try to have a LCD on hand. I’ll have to try the fishing line trick!

northstar - 21/11/18

I also recommend doing step 45 first (removing the two pieces of foam tape at the bottom).

northstar - 21/11/18

I was able to do this the first time w/out damaging the LCD simply by following the instructions to the letter, slowly and carefully. The only thing I did differently was to follow Northstar’s instructions to remove the two pieces of tape at the bottom of the LCD before beginning.

Jenny Lawson - 12/03/20

I found a good way to remove the LCD without breaking it. Once you finish to clean up around the LCD just lift a bit one of the white metal backing plate and insert in the gap a plastified playing card under le LCD and slowly make your way to the center of the LCD. Repeat on the other side and the LCD will lift up intact.

lemerise - 26/07/20

nothing Brocken after

(I did not read the comments before doing it lol)

iliketrains kid -

Paso 39

Inserta la plumilla en tres lugares más en el lado izquierdo del LCD y dóblalas en cada lugar, para deslizar el LCD sobre el lado derecho de la carcasa trasera.

Paso 40

Ahora cambia a el lado derecho del LCD, y palanquea con la plumilla en varios lugares a lo largo de este lado para mover el LCD de vuelta al lado izquierdo.
Repite este y el paso anterior varias veces, hasta que el LCD pueda moverse de manera sencilla de izquierda a derecha.

Paso 41

En los siguientes pasos, estarás deslizando una púa entre el LCD y la placa de soporte de metal para separar por completo el LCD del adhesivo que tiene debajo.
Inserte la punta de un spudger entre el marco del LCD y la placa de soporte de metal.
Asegúrate de colocar el spudger entre el marco del LCD y el soporte de metal, y no debajo de este soporte. Hacer palanca en el soporte lo dañará, por que esta atornillado a la carcasas trasera debajo del LCD.

Paso 42

Empezando en el superior derecho del dispositivo, desliza el spudger entre el marco del LCD y la placa de metal, lo que va a separas el adhesivo conforme empujamos.
La meta es separar el adhesivo, no hacer palanca en el LCD, así que mantén la punta del spudger apuntando hacia abajo lo más que púedas para prevenir doblar el LCD.
Si insertar un spudger causa que la esquina del LCD se doble, repite los pasos con la plumilla para aflojar mas el adhesivo.

These steps were hard. I was too scared that I was going to brake the LCD. Luckily I got it off! Don’t know how delicate these things are and how much force they can take.

Padraic Hoselton - 26/02/18

me to it was hard

iliketrains kid -

Paso 43

Repite el procedimiento anterior a lo largo de la parte superior del LCD.
Inserta la punta de una espátula entre el marco del LCD y la placa de metal y gentilmente empuja el spudger hacia adentro a través del superior del dispositivo, separando el adhesivo.

Paso 44

Continua con el lado izquierdo del LCD, inserta la punta de un spudger entre el LCD y la placa de protección e inserta el spudger tan profundo como se pueda.
En este punto el LCD debe de estar flojo de su adhesivo que lo sostenía. Si no lo está, re-inserta el spudger en el lado derecho o superior para liberar completamente el LCD.

Paso 45

Levanta el LCD unas pulgadas de la carcasa trasera para asegurarse que esta libre del adhesivo.

When I did it I found that the adhesive sticking was mainly on the edges, so if you take a spudger and just break that adhesive carefully it will help. Be gentle lifting the lcd as it’s very breakable.

Jasper Holden - 07/09/19

Paso 46

Dos franjas anchas de cinta conectan el LCD a las bocinas.
Mientras sostienes el LCD con una mano, inserta la punta de un spudger en el hueco entre esta cinta y la bocina izquierda.
Gentilmente jala el LCD de las bocinas mientras rotas el spudger hacia afuera para separar la cinta de la bocina.

I recommend removing these two pieces of foam tape prior to loosening and lifting the LCD.

northstar - 21/11/18

Paso 47

Inserta la punta de una espátula en el hueco entre la bocina derecha y la cinta del LCD.
Mientras jalas el LCD de las bocinas, rota la espátula hacia afuera, abriendo el hueco y soltando la cinta de la bocina.

Paso 48

Voltea el LCD y déjalo reposar en la parte superior del cristal del panel frontal.
No intentes remover el LCD del iPad, ya que aún sigue conectado por su cable de datos.

Paso 49

Remueve los siguientes tornillos que aseguran la placa de protección del LCD a la carcasa trasera del iPad:
Dos Phillips #00 de 2.6 mm
Trece Phillips #00 de 1.7 mm
Uno adicional Phillips #00 de 1.7 mm en algunos dispositivos.

At the iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are only 7 screws.

sandro - 24/11/14

On my iPad Mini (Gen 1 WiFi; A1432), these are not #00 screws, but #000 screws. They're much tinier than the first four screws that held the LCD tabs in place. The #00 driver sorta works, but requires a lot of force to get traction. The #000 driver works like a charm, though.

volty - 30/03/16

On my 1432 there were mixed in 4 tiny #000 screws holding the shield plate aong the right side. Looks like these can be mixed in without consequence as they are shorter anyway

gfriedman99 - 29/10/16

I have a missing plate and screws

Keah Smith - 07/11/19

Paso 50

Inserta la punta de un spudger debajo del centro de la placa protectora del LCD desde el inferior del iPad.
Palanquea con el spudger para liberar la placa de los lados de la carcasa trasera.

Paso 51

Remueve la placa de protección del LCD del iPad.

theres a lip on the rear case that prevents you from lifting this straight out, be careful to not bend the plate.

jfaulks1 - 17/01/19

Once the LCD is clear of the shield, wiggle a long plastic spudger up the center between the shield and the battery to gently bend the shield. That will help in getting it away from the sides and make it easier to come out.

Bill Shannon - 26/01/19

Paso 52

Remueve los tres tornillos Phillips #00 de 1.3 mm que aseguran la protección del conector a la tarjeta lógica.
Asegúrate de no sustituir estos tres tornillos con otros tornillos, específicamente con los tornillos que aseguran la placa de protección del LCD a la carcasa trasera del iPad. Cualquier tornillo por ligeramente mas largo puede remover los agujeros de los tornillos y resultar en daño irreparable dañando la tarjeta lógica.

Note: These three screws are smaller than the rest of the screws holding the larger LCD shield although they look similar. If you substitute the larger screws, you will pop a screw bracket which can damage the board on both the mini original and mini 2 retina. I just wrote a blog post about how this happens: http://mendonipadrehab.com/entries/gener...

jessabethany - 10/07/14

Hi jessabethany. Thank you for the warning. I read your blog post and found it to be very informative. Thanks for adding the warning to the step. It will most definitely help others avoid any damage to the logic board. Thanks!

Walter Galan - 15/07/14

Be careful: At iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are thw short and one longer screw! Don't mix them!

sandro - 24/11/14

Paso 53

Usa un par de pinzas para agarrar y remover la protección del conector del iPad.

Paso 54

Usa una herramienta de apertura de plástico para gentilmente hacer palanca a el conector de la batería de su socket en la tarjeta lógica.
Ten cuidado de solo hacer palanca en el conector de la batería y no del mismo socket. Si haces palanca en el socket de la tarjeta lógica, puedes romper el conector por completo.

Make sure you disconnect the battery. If not and ipad is still on you can have problems with the LCD backlight. To fix that problem you have to solder

Mattis -

I may be experiencing the backlight problem you mentioned. What connection needs to be soldered?

Grillwrecka -

Have an issue - heard that if you don't disconnect the battery a fuse is blown. I need help to fix the blown fuse.

Andrew Kivell - 27/03/15

There is an extensive thread in Answers about iPad mini backlight problems.Th screen stays black after a digitizer replacement.

jessabethany - 27/03/15

After unplugging the battery place a guitar pick in-between the two connections.

While continuing to work on the iPad you may inadvertently cause the two connections to touch.

Michael Vovaris - 08/07/15

Yeah, you need to put the pick in between the connections so the battery doesn't touch the logic board connector and blow a fuse and make your backlight not turn on. You really don't want to have to solder the 2 connections together, especially if you don't know how, like me! I will use your comment's advice when working.

WolfyHD - 20/07/17

I put a piece of cellotape on the contact side of the connector and could happily forget about it while getting on with the rest of the repair.

Rory Filer - 28/12/17

Paso 55

Usa una herramienta de apertura de plástico para hacer palanca en el conector del LCD de su socket en la tarjeta lógica.
No hagas palanca en el IC largo que esta alado del conector, o puedes romperlo. Gentilmente haz palanca desde el lado del conector como se muestra.

Putting the iPad back together: While plugging the LCD Connector back in, take your time finding the socket on the logic board. Do no use pressure until you are certain it is seated properly. Trust me, if you take your time you will know its seated correctly.

Michael Vovaris - 17/03/15

Does it shares the same shape/size of the LCD connector between the ipad mini wifi only WHITE and the other one ipad mini 32gb BLACK?

muhammadbukhari10 - 31/12/19

Paso 56

El LCD aún esta conectado a el resto del iPad por dos franjas anchas de cinta adhesiva que va desde el interior de la carcasa trasera hasta el frente inferior del marco del LCD.
Mientras sostienes el LCD con una mano, inserta la punta de un spudger entre el LCD y la cinta en el lado derecho del iPad.
Desliza el spudger hacia afuera, separando la cinta, mientras gentilmente levantas el LCD para jalarlo de la cinta.
Puede ayudar girar el spudger, para agrandar el hueco y separar el LCD de la cinta.

Removing this tape and such to take the LCD off completely is unneccessary when replacing just the glass and digitizer, the digitizer cable is easily removed without further work to the LCD

Dave Davidson - 20/06/14

When this tape damage, how we can take a new?

Muhammed Kilic - 16/12/17

When this tape are damage, how we can order and take a new one?

Muhammed Kilic - 16/12/17

Following from Nick H’s comment about LCD removal being unnecessary - I tried that first and got my broken glass OUT of the assembly by threading it thru a limited space beneath the LCD. Later when trying to reseat the digitizer connector I gave up and removed the LCD anyhow. Not that much extra work but a LOT easier to install the digitizer and reseat the connector without having to navigate around the LCD and its cable. Removal of the tape holding the LCD was easy - there are two short lengths of rubber or foam along the bottom edge of the LCD that faces the outside world. Remove those(save them) and then _carefully_ peel up the tape; I saw some metallic looking residue underneath. Later when re-assembling everything, I put the tape back and then those two short lengths of foam.

Rory Filer - 28/12/17

on mine this tape was already loose.

jfaulks1 - 17/01/19

Paso 57

Mientras aún sostienes el LCD con una mano, muévete al lado izquierdo del iPad y repite el procedimiento anterior para separar la segunda pieza de cinta.
Inserte la punta de una espátula entre el marco del LCD y la cinta, y deslice hacia afuera mientras levanta el LCD gentilmente.

Paso 58

Levanta y remueve el LCD del iPad Mini.

Paso 59

Ten cuidado de hacer palanca solo en el conector digitalizador, y no en el socket. El socket y el conector son muy delicados y si dañas alguno, yu digitalizador no funcionará.
Para minimizar la fuerza en el socket, intenta hacer palanca debajo del borde pequeño en el conector, en vez de en el borde largo el cual es mostrado en estas imágenes.
Gentilmente haz palanca en el conector digitalizador de su socket en la tarjeta lógica.

Paso 60

Gentilmente haz palanca en la tarjeta del cable digitalizador de su carcasa trasera.

Be careful not to dislodge any of the surface mount components next to the connectors. This is sometimes a reason for the digitiser not working.

Simon -

There is adhesive holding it down, so it may take some time to get it off. It helped me to push with my spudger on the piece with the yellow text instead from the same side.

Jasper Holden - 07/09/19

I put the iOpener under the iPad to weaken the adhesive for this step.

Nathan Lloyd - 06/02/21

Paso 61

Levanta y remueve el panel frontal del iPad.

== After step 55 ==

Before installing your new digitizer (front panel), make sure to put the necessary bends on the new digitizer's ribbon cable. Look at the old panel that you've removed to see the bends that you'll need to make. Without doing this, once you are at the last step of laying down the digitizer, the cable may bunch-up in between the glass and the iPad's aluminum frame. Thus, it will not allow that corner to sit flush and glue down. If you didn't make the bends, you can use the tweezers at that point to situate the cable. It is just easier to do this beforehand. Do not make the bends as if you were folding paper. You run the risk of damaging the ribbon by doing so. You just want enough pressure to make the cable retain a bend. Again, look at and copy the cable from your old panel.

Good Luck!!!!

Mike -

If your panel is shattered, you may want to have some canned air to get rid of all those pesky little glass pieces that fly everywhere. I used a Giottos air blaster because that is all I had at my disposal.

Mike -

might be better to use a vacuum for safety reasons. you really dont want glass shards all over the place

gfriedman99 - 29/10/16

If your case corners are damaged from being dropped, seal across the corners with wide packing tape, then grind them out carefully with a small motor tool. Use a corner piece from the broken screen (adhesive side upwards) as the template. Keep removing aluminium until screen piece above fits snug and flat. Remove all traces of metal filings before reassembly.

Jennifer Fordyce - 16/01/18

Good tip! Most times the corners are damaged.

northstar - 21/11/18

Reemplazo del conjunto de panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA

Introducción

Herramientas

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