Reemplazo del digitalizador del Nintendo Switch

Escrito Por: Craig Lloyd

Comentarios: 118

Reemplazo del digitalizador del Nintendo Switch

Dificultad

Difícil

Pasos

Tiempo Requerido

1 - 2 horas

Introducción

Sigue esta guía para sustituir un digitalizador dañado o defectuoso en la videoconsola Nintendo Switch.

La Switch usa tornillos JIS, pero puedes usar un destornillador Phillips en un apuro. Ten mucho cuidado de no dañar los tornillos. Las puntas Phillips de iFixit están diseñadas para ser compatibles con los tornillos estilo JIS.

Nota: Si la pantalla ha dejado de funcionar, es posible que solo tengas que reemplazar el panel LCD, en lugar del digitalizador.

Nota: Cuando retirea la placa protectora, deberás reemplazar el compuesto térmico entre la placa y el disipador de calor. Dado que la pasta térmica normal no está diseñada para cerrar espacios grandes, el repuesto más parecido es la pasta térmica viscosa K5 Pro. Sin embargo, necesitarsá pasta térmica de repuesto normal para la CPU.

Puedes completar esta reparación sin quitar el disipador de calor y el lector de tarjetas de juego, pero hace que desconectar y volver a conectar el cable plano del panel LCD sea mucho más difícil. Ten esto en cuenta cuando realicse esta reparación.

Nota: Esta guía y la pieza que vendemos son compatibles con el modelo original de Nintendo Switch lanzado en 2017, así como con el modelo actualizado más nuevo lanzado en 2019 (números de modelo HAC-001 y HAC-001( -01), respectivamente).

Herramientas

Partes

Nintendo Switch Digitizer Front Panel

Paso 1

Antes de comenzar esta reparación, asegúrate de que el dispositivo está completamente apagado.
Mantén pulsado el pequeño botón redondo de la parte trasera del mando Joy Con.
Mientras mantienes pulsado el botón, desliza el mando hacia arriba.

Paso 2

Continúa deslizando el control hacia arriba hasta sacarlo completamente de la consola.
Repite este mismo proceso para el otro control.

Paso 3

Utiliza un destornillador Y00 para retirar los cuatro tornillos de 6.3mm de longitud que sujetan el panel trasero.
A lo largo de esta reparación, mantén un registro de cada tornillo y asegúrate de que vuelve exactamente al mismo lugar de origen.

Had to use a Y0 from my kit - the Y00 was too small to get a grip on the screw.

cday - 05/06/21

I also had a much easier time with Y0 versus Y00. Y00 felt like it was starting to strip the first screw I tried to remove.

Joe -

My screws took a little coaxing before they were all ready to come out of the back plate, but I remedied this by turning the screwdriver as little as possible with each turn. Use almost no pressure, except for at the very beginning of each screw’s first turn.

nin10doh -

I think my screws are stripped, any way to get them out?

Banjomanperson -

I hear that using a rubber band can help? Not 100% sure on that though.

Pifase -

Paso 4

Utiliza un destornillador JIS 000 o un destornillador PH000 oficial de iFixit para retirar los siguientes tornillos que fijan el panel trasero:
Un tornillo de 2.5 mm de longitud en el borde superior del aparato.
Dos tornillos de 2.5 mm de longitud en el borde inferior del aparato
Para prevenir estos tornillos duros de barrerse, aplica presión firme hacia abajo, ve despacio y trata de usar un destornillador JIS 000 o PH 000 si los tornillos no salen.

Hey guys, I tried removing the upper screw and it won't go out(neither will it go in) any tips how to fix this?

Thanks

Nemysis - 27/03/21

The screw boss might be stripped out. Has the device been taken apart before? If you can unscrew it a little bit to get the screw to peek out, maybe try and grab it with some pliers as a last-ditch effort.

Craig Lloyd - 29/03/21

I have the same problem. The JIS 000 tool works great on the joy con rails per step 5 but refuses to turn the bottom two 2.5 mm screws as in step 4. These bottom screws are noticeably smaller than the screws as in step 5. The JIS 000 does not get down into these screws. Hopefully they haven’t been stripped by the wrong tool. So is there a JIS tool that is smaller than 000? I’m stuck at this point…

david brown - 28/04/21

We used the JIS 3.0mm screwdriver for both top and bottom screws and it worked

Brooklyn Gardner - 07/05/21

Used PH00 to get these out with no problem.

cday - 05/06/21

Fun fact: these screw into little plastic tabs that stick out of the rear panel. Apparently those tabs are fragile and easy to just break off…

Benjamin Fritz -

My screws came out fine. But they are easily stripped with too much pressure on reassmbly

Jaxon Lee -

this screws are way too fragile and way too small so be careful when taking them off dont use much force and unscrew also one of them fell somewhere and spent 30 mins searching for it

Richard Aguirre -

PH000 will work if you don’t have JIS000. The large IFIXIT kit has both and I lost JIS000. Just be very careful as you can strip the heads when removing or inserting easier.

Shawn Spivey -

One thing that worked pretty well for me with the screws not coming out is slightly prying on the back cover to put them under some tension

Florian Kraupa -

Quick note, these screws are not magnetic. A magnetic screwdriver will hold onto any of the others safely, but you need to be careful not to drop these ones in particular.

Jason Lane -

These would just keep rotating and not come out. What worked was, as Florian Kraupa suggested, i slid a plastic pick just between the 2 shells near the screws to prise it open slightly, then unscrewed and out they came. They're the smallest screws I've ever almost not seen before, so be careful with them.

Susannah Carter -

Paso 5

Usa un destornillador JIS 000 o un destornillador PH 000 oficial de iFixit para retirar los dos tornillos centrales de 3.8 mm situados en los laterales del aparato (uno en cada lado).

I tried my JIS 000 on Step 5 and was unable to get the screw to budge. It’s partner from the other side came right out with no trouble. Don’t really want to narf up the screw, so I bailed out. Anyone else have this issue?

mrhoyt - 04/03/21

Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!

Craig Lloyd - 05/03/21

Yeah I’m having this exact issue. Screw stripped and now I’m stuck. Wish I hadn’t even started.

Ryan Quinn - 22/05/21

I did finally get it out- one thing I noticed was some of the screws have blue Loctite on the threads. I guess they figure it’ll get tossed around. This underscores the importance of having the correct tools and making double darn sure you are using the correct size, etc.

mrhoyt - 05/03/21

What worked for me here was a Phillips 000, not a JIS 000

Federico Zivolo - 21/04/21

One of mine is totally stripped. Guess I can’t do anything now.

Nick -

My kit only has two screwdriver heads! The package was open when I received it!

Cynthia Hyland -

I had this issue as well. Screw was irreparably stripped. If you can get every other screw out, just keep applying pressure with a flat head screw driver right above the stripped screw and try to break the plastic piece holding onto the screw. It's a very minor invisible bit of damage that will allow you to continue the repair.

Raymond Garrison -

Paso 6

Usa tu dedo para levantar el soporte de la parte trasera del dispositivo.
Si hay una tarjeta microSD en la ranura para tarjetas microSD, sácala ahora antes de continuar con el siguiente paso.

Don't put your SD card on your magnetic mat.

Chris Cotter -

Paso 7

Utiliza un destornillador JIS 000 o un destornillador PH 000 oficial de iFixit para retirar el tornillo de 1.6 mm en el pozo de la pata de cabra.
Cierra el soporte.

Paso 8

Abre la solapa del cartucho de tarjetas de juego.
La solapa del cartucho de la tarjeta de juego se adhiere a la otra mitad de la carcasa de plástico, lo que impide levantar completamente el panel trasero si está cerrado.
Levanta el panel trasero desde la parte inferior del dispositivo y retíralo.

How to remove micro SD port?

Pull straight up, press back into place when closing back up.

Christopher Hernandez - 02/03/21

This step is missing in this guide. Here are the steps from another guide:

Step 9) Remplazo del Riel del sensor del Joy Con derecho del Nintendo Switch

Step 10) Remplazo del Riel del sensor del Joy Con derecho del Nintendo Switch

David -

Paso 9

Utiliza un destornillador JIS 000 o un destornillador PH 000 oficial de iFixit para retirar el tornillo de 3.1 mm que fija el lector de tarjetas microSD al dispositivo.

Paso 10

Utiliza tus dedos o unas pinzas para levantar el lector de tarjetas microSD directamente del dispositivo para desconectarlo y retirarlo.
Al volver a montarlo, asegúrate de que el conector a presión situado debajo de la almohadilla de espuma esté firmemente conectado a la placa base. Podría resultarte más fácil si retiras dicha almohadilla antes de reinstalar el lector de tarjetas.

Yes. The reverse is not so simple- you can’t see what you’re doing when you attempt to reconnect and it only takes one small error to completely bend the contacts on the connector. Very delicate.

if you very gently remove the foam pad sticker, you can at least see better how it lines up and can feel your way to a degree… then you can stick the pad back in. The pad seems pretty critical in keeping things in place once reassembled.

holmzee - 08/12/19

Definitely agree about not sticking the foam pad back on until the new SD card slot is connected. Saved a lot of headache. Great walkthrough and easy repair!

Jonathan Stachewicz - 06/01/21

Tried several times to replace this SD reader module. As mentioned above, the issue is aligning the connectors together. It appears the foam tape is being used to hold the connection in place. (assuming you can make a viable connection) I am rather surprised at this design. In my experience, mylar ribbon cables like this usually slide into a small PC mounted socket. It appears Nintendo went the cheap route here. This design is prone to failure since it does not enable a positive connection - at least from what I can see.

Bill Little - 28/12/19

Alors je suis en détresse total . Jai cassé les bouches en or sur le connecteur qui est soudé sur la carte mère.. comment changer cette toute petite pièces, oû la trouver . Cela fais 1 mois que je cherche partout. Sans remplacer la carte mère. Merci pour vos réponses

Mike Snow - 23/03/20

I found it easier to connect it without the black foam pad so I could see and than add the foam pad over it. It was super easy and I an I 33 Mom doing this for my son. Was well worth the money for the kit saved us almost 100 bucks

Katherine Harrison - 12/05/20

Had my son follow this guide to fix his own switch where the ad card reader didn't work. And he did. Great instructions!!!! Thanks a million!

William Scott - 04/07/20

The only difficult part of following this guide is connecting the new sd card reader into the poorly designed motherboard connector. Its quite possible the sd card reader that came in the console wasnt broken at all.

The repair kit works just as advertised and even comes with stickers.

Matthias_ Links - 21/10/20

I’m still getting error 2002-2054 even after replacing memory card reader module. Thanks, Nintendo!

Wes Stephenson - 26/12/20

My switch won’t read my microSD card after I reassembled it (error 2016-0641) please help!

Nate Topical - 01/01/21

Tip: Keep the old SD reader piece loosely attached while you line up and gently press the new SD component into the connector on the motherboard. Once the new piece is snug, then carefully remove the old piece keeping the sticky foam in place.

I am a middle-aged mom with absolutely no special tech skills and I easily followed the directions and successfully fixed the broken SD drive. ifixit is the best!

Wende David - 29/01/21

Ah good! i have more confidence now in doing it once you said you're a middle age mom with no experience

Mohammad Hosein Yavari -

I missed this bit about reconnecting the SD card reader under the foam pad and didn’t realise until my son pointed out a data storage problem?. All fixed in about 5 minutes taking advice from the replacing the SD card reader fix, especially removing the foam pad from the connector to better see and feel what you’re doing. All sorted!

Stuart Farquharson-Roberts - 28/03/21

Awesome guide! Very easy to do with the supplied kit

cravenkeo khamone - 13/05/21

Tank you very much, and by tank I mean M1 Abrams, jokes apart easy and simple to follow

Elia Veschi -

Thanks for the guide, I was struggling to find a solution, replaced more sd cards, before I stumbled upon this post. The Switch of my children works flawless again!

Robert Morvai - 25/08/21

Doesn’t work! I have spent 4 hours and $26 on a tiny screwdriver and some stickers.. I just gave up and replaced the Switch instead.

I even contacted a local shop to have them fix it and they told me it really isn’t possible. Thanks for taking my money Ifixit!

J.R. Wood -

This helped me to reseat my SD card reader ribbon cable. I was getting the 2016-0641 error and no card work. A drop had dislodged the cable partially. And yes remove the foam pad gently to properly connect the cable. You can reuse the foam pad.

Kris Morey -

For anyone who ends up bending the pins like I did while trying to reseat the microSD card reader…

I suggest gently placing very thin tweezers (like the curved ones in the Pro Tool Kit) in the gap and very, very gently pressing them back into alignment. Took a little effort but I was able to realign them enough to sit it in place and have it later working after reassembling the console.

Yakarot Sennin - 13/01/22

Anyone have a suggestion where I can purchase replacement foam for this sticker?

Rob M -

When reassembling, note the alignment pins in the left and bottom notches before tightening the screw

Jason Lane -

Super gemakkelijk te installeren met behulp van deze zeer duidelijke handleiding (met dank aan de vertalers!)

Wel even goed opletten op de aansluiting op het moederbord is zeer fragiel.

R de Bruijne -

It is key to remember most out of the box issues with the SD card reader, do not require a replacement part and can be solved with disconnecting then re-connecting the reader at the motherboard.

Only when a simple re-seating at the connector doesn't work should you buy the replacement part.

Jonathon Sinclair -

I bought the kit and followed the directions. I plucked the black rubber foam off with a pair of eyelash tweezers. Putting the tiny screws back in place also was made easier using the tweezers. As for placing the SD card in place I think I got a bit lucky. I lined it up and gently pressed until it simply went into place. I do believe being gentle is the key there. But it went in and I put it back together. The deconstructing and reconstructing is what took the longest for me at least. I turned it on to verify it worked and then unpowered the unit and inserted the card. The system recognized and update right away and did it and then recognized the card! Just what I need for 20 something dollars. Son is happy and back to gaming.

Albert Baker -

Thank you for postingthis fix. The original sd card reader had come unplugged from the motherboard, so replacement reader will be a spare.

Anybody found a way to ensure the sd reader stays in place?

Craig Thwaites -

It was my first time repairing a Switch and the fan replacement wasn't too hard, but unfortunately I think there should be a better warning about the SD card connector because I damaged it while trying to put it back in. I couldn't hear any click and it didn't seem to stay put and I think I ended up applying to much force and damaging the pins.

Serge Huber -

Paso 11

Usa un destornillador JIS 000 o un destornillador PH 000 oficial de iFixit para retirar los seis tornillos de 3 mm que fijan la placa de protección al aparato.

Some models have a small board in the lower left beneath the kickstand which accepts SD cards. This will have to be carefully removed with its connections popped out, then replaced after.

Draque Thompson -

Yeah, that “small board” is the microSD Card reader chip, which was covered literally one step ago. All models have a microSD Card reader, that’s how game data is stored…

nin10doh - 12/12/21

Paso 12

Utiliza tus dedos o unas pinzas para despegar el trozo de espuma que hay en el borde superior del aparato, cerca del puerto de salida del ventilador.
Si la espuma no se pela fácilmente, no la forces porque puede rasgarse. Pela cuidadosamente en lugares diferentes para echar atrás la espuma.

My Switch (bought about two weeks after launch) seems to be missing this foam piece… Was it added later, similar to the foam piece in the left joy-con (to improve connectivity)?

firetech - 05/02/21

It’s possible it was added to newer units! Nintendo slightly updated the internals of the Switch not too long ago.

Craig Lloyd - 05/02/21

My launch Switch also does not have this piece of foam, so it was most likely added later.

Christoph -

Also did not see this in my launch switch.

matthew.raehl -

Paso 13

Inserta un spudger debajo de la placa de escudo a lo largo del borde del dispositivo.
Haz palanca para levantar la placa de escudo y removerla del dispositivo.
Es posible que sientas un poco de resistencia. Esto es normal, ya que la placa de escudo está ligeramente adherida al disipador de calor con pasta térmica.
Un compuesto térmico rosado espeso cierra el espacio entre la placa protectora y el disipador de calor de cobre debajo. Esto ayuda a evitar que el Switch se sobrecaliente.
Puedes reutilizar el compuesto térmico rosa si tienes cuidado. Mantén el compuesto limpio y asegúrate de que haces un contacto sólido entre el disipador de calor y el protector durante el montaje.
Si necesitas reemplazarlo, consulta nuestra guía de pasta térmica para quitar el compuesto térmico antiguo y reemplazarlo con un compuesto apropiado, como K5 Pro, durante el reensamblaje.

How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?

Youji Hong - 27/08/19

Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..

MacTek - 15/12/19

When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?

Diego Soto - 30/08/19

I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound

Adam Stillman - 06/09/19

No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.

MacTek - 15/12/19

Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.

Shawn Christensen - 20/12/19

Why was this not included in the tools/equipment list? Getting to this step and now I will have to reverse and wait for yet another order to arrive. ? Very frustrated

Amanda Nally - 12/03/21

Hi Amanda,

Thanks for bringing this up. Sorry! We inadvertently left that part out during the guide refresh. I’ll add the necessary info into the step.

Arthur Shi - 12/03/21

To apply new thermal paste, the directions state to use the application method recommended for your specific processor type—vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread.

Which method should be used for the Nintendo Switch processor?

Philip W -

As stated in the comment above, is there a particular method to apply thermal paste to the Switch’s processor? Or as long as you distribute it evenly is enough?

lievjorg -

Paso 14

Usa la punta de un spudger para hacer palanca en el conector de la batería hacia arriba y fuera de su zócalo en la placa madre.

be careful not to pry it off the board entirely

Nathan McKenna -

This was an old switch and the entire thing with the black plastic came off.. Most of the pins aren't there anymore, too.. is there a solution to that? Does soldering work?

Dawn Martin -

it's probably possible, but unless you have experience with microsoldering, you'd probably be better off taking it to a local repair shop

just some mango -

Paso 15

Usa un destornillador JIS 000 o un PH 000 oficial de iFixit para remover tres tornillos de 3 mm asegurando el disipador a la placa madre

Paso 16

Despega con cuidado las dos piezas de espuma pegadas sobre el disipador y el ventilador.

Despega con cuidado las dos piezas de espuma pegadas sobre el disipador y el ventilador.
La espuma solo necesita estar pelada lo suficiente para despejar el ventilador
La espuma es muy delicada y se rompe fácilmente. Utiliza la siguiente técnica para pelar la espuma:
Introduce la punta de un spudger debajo de la parte de la espuma que no está pegada a nada,
Presiona la parte superior de la espuma con el dedo para mantenerla en su sitio.
Pasa la punta del spudger por debajo de la espuma hasta el otro extremo de la espuma para liberarla.

spudger technique is perfect.

Jaxon Lee -

For anyone who doesn’t have a pen-style spudger, the tip of your JIS 000 screwdriver can be a great alternative tool. The same steps above can be used, just be extra careful not to tear that foam. Roll the tip of the screwdriver the same way you would roll the spudger tip.

nin10doh -

Maybe it’s because I’m working on a day one switch and the adhesive is just old and stubborn, but this didn’t work well for me. Am I just completely out of luck, or can I order a replacement for the foam?

Trae Block - 09/03/22

I had the same problem and I found a foam manufacturer: https://www.foam-material.com/sample-cus...

I'm pretty sure the type is "Granular Activated Carbon Foam" and the thickness is 0.5 mm but I have no idea what the porosity is.

Garret Jaworski -

Yeah ripped the foam. Neither the screwdriver nor spudger technique worked. Day one switch, so 6 years old at this point.

Ndragonawa -

Does the foam need replacing if torn? What does it actually do.

Scott Norman -

Paso 17

Usa una spudger o tus dedos para levantar el disipador arriba y fuera de la placa madre para removerlo
Puede que sientas un poco de resistencia. Esto es normal debido a que el disipador esta pegado ligeramente al CPU con pasta termal
Limpia toda la pasta térmica del disipador y del CPU utilizando alcohol isopropilico de concentración alta (90% o major) y una tela de microfibra. Aplica la nueva pasta termal al CPU antes del re-ensamble
Aplica pasta térmica a todas las superficies a las que se les haya aplicado pasta térmica anteriormente. Esto incluye entre el tubo de calor y el escudo de aluminio, que el Switch usa como disipador de calor adicional.

What's on the heatsink?

Unknown1224 - 25/08/19

Directions for this step say you can use Artic Silver ArctiClean but when adding to iFixit cart it says “This won’t work with your device (Nintendo Switch).

Dan S. - 03/06/20

where do i get more of that black fabric like tape that is on the heat sink?

Regal Pikachu - 04/06/20

They may sell it in the ifixit store.

Joshua Graham - 03/06/21

(1) Exactly how much thermal paste should be applied to the CPU?

(2) Which application method should be used? The linked instructions list four methods (vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread) but it’s not clear to me which one is appropriate for the Switch. Thanks!

Travis - 18/07/21

UPDATE: So, for anyone who also wanted to know the answers to these questions:

1. I ended up eyeballing the amount. Imagine an amount the size of a pea, then split that amount in half. That’s how much I used, and it worked fine.

2. The paste (I used K5-Pro as recommended) is quite thick and sticky and difficult to get to behave the way you want, so I ended up just doing the “middle dot” method and spreading it a bit with a popsicle stick before smushing it the rest of the way down with the heat sink. Seems to have done the trick.

Good luck!

Travis -

you can also spread it with the spudger or any non-metalic tool if you are not sure how much you put

just clean it afterwards

Richard Aguirre -

K5 (or thermal pads) is ONLY needed between the copper pipe and metal shield plate. It is a pad replacement compound and is not meant for high heat applications like CPUs as it boils and creates air gaps. Air=bad for heat transfer.

Regular thermal compound/paste should be used on the CPU. You’ll have a sticky mess to clean but if you want proper cooling it needs to be done. The instructions clearly state that regular compound is used on the CPU.

Cerus98 -

i used artic silver 5 and worked just fine

Richard Aguirre -

Paso 18

Usa una herramienta de apertura o tu uña para levantar el candado del conector ZIF del digitalizador

This step broke my switch i can't use my card reader anymore! i tried numerous time the reverse it seems my headphone jack works but my touchscreen and gamecard reader is broken. Even worse one of the screws to attach this plate was mangled so i cant even replace it anymore because the screw wont come out anymore. I reallly hate that i followed this guide others suggested to just keep the gamecard touchscreen ribbon attached and just fold it like a book. I wished i did that. I not gonna bother to even buy an gamecard replacement anymore. Its time to buy an switch oled and be done with this!

Kar Wai Chan -

The advice to "fold it like a book" will not work, as the cable will need to come out of the switch in order to replace the screen. It can not be kept in the slot.

Loris Hofer -

To anyone reading this step: This is not an isolated incident. The loss of functionality of the game reader board, which includes the use of reading cartridges, the touchscreen, and the headphone jack, is an possibility that can happen if you disconnect the board. Unless you are replacing the board itself, do not do this step. As of 1/15/2023, there is no know reason why this happens or no known solution other than buying a new game reader board.

Henry Terrance -

Update: If your Switch has lost the ability to read games and or the headphone jack in addition to touchscreen functionality, please consider reading this thread and its solution: Nintendo Switch Cartridge Reader Not Working After Fan Replacement

Henry Terrance -

it is really hard to see what you need to flip up. look at it from different angles. it's the thinnest little strip of black plastic.

Patrick Laffan -

Paso 19

Utiliza unas pinzas para deslizar suavemente y de forma horizontal el cable plano del lector de tarjetas de juego fuera de su conector.
Antes de insertar el cable durante el reensamblaje, asegúrate de que la solapa de bloqueo del conector ZIF esté levantada.
Con el cable paralelo a la placa, deslízalo suavemente en su conector.
No fuerces el cable en el conector. Si no se inserta, asegúrate de que la lengüeta de bloqueo esté levantada, vuelve a colocar el cable y vuelve a intentarlo.
Si tu pantalla táctil no funciona después de la reparación pero tu lector de Game Card sí, asegúrate de que este cable esté correctamente insertado. Si su lector de Game Card tampoco funciona, verifica el conector de la tarjeta de juego en el siguiente paso.

The reverse of this is a little tricky - it may be helpful to post some more detail about getting the ribbon all the way back in and ensuring the clasp goes down to troubleshoot some of the touchscreen comments below.

Nick Wagner - 04/01/21

This seems to be purely for the touchscreen to work, if you remove the headphone/card reader the switch will still function fine, however without somewhere for this cable to reattach your touchscreen will be disabled

Ian Wilson -

the reverse of this is tricky. i'd suggest a better tool kit with this that includes real tweezers so i don't have to use my wife's

Patrick Laffan -

Did you get it to work finally?!

Chris Cotter -

Hi Chris! From the thread, it looks like it's not this connector that's the problem, but the press connector in the step below. If your card reader won't read cards, check to make sure this connector is fully aligned and seated.

Arthur Shi -

Paso 20

Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el conector del jack de audífonos y el lector de tarjetas de juego y desconectarlo de la tarjeta madre
Para re-unir los conectores a presión como este, con cuidado alinea y presiona en un lado hasta que haga click en su lugar, luego repite en el otro lado. No presiones en el centro. Si el conector esta desalineado, los pines pueden doblarse y causar daño permanente.

Note that if the card reader mentions it won't read cards, this cable has not been reconnected correctly. Watch the connectors are not bent when reattaching

Shaniqua Bowdre -

You need to push the connector upwards. Look at the image and you will see a very slight bend. This bent allows the connector to align with its dock. Very very careful when pressing down IT HAS TO BE ALIGNED.

Juan Visani -

Paso 21

Usa un destornillador JIS 000 o un PH 00 oficial de iFixit para remover los tres tornillos de 3.1 mm asegurando el conector de audífonos y el lector de tarjetas de juegos del dispositivo

Paso 22

Usa unas pinzas o tus dedos para remover el zócalo del conector de auriculares.

Paso 23

Usa un par de pinzas o tus dedos para remover la tarjeta del conector de audífonos y el lector de tarjetas de juego.

Paso 24

Utilice una herramienta de apertura, una espátula o su uña para levantar la pequeña solapa de cierre con bisagra del conector ZIF del cable plano de la pantalla LCD.

Paso 25

Utiliza unas pinzas para sacar el cable plano de su conector en la placa madre.

I’ve torn a few ribbon cables in my time. Use your tweezers to nudge the tabs on either side of the ribbon cable and “walk” the ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector - slowly!! This should help prevent any tears in the ribbon cable when using tweezers.

nin10doh -

Paso 26

Usa una herramienta de apertura, una espátula o tu uña para levantar la pequeña solapa de cierre con bisagra del conector ZIF del cable plano de la pantalla LCD más pequeño.

Paso 27

Utiliza unas pinzas para sacar el cable plano de su conector en la placa madre.

Paso 28

Calienta un iOpener y aplícalo en el borde inferior de la pantalla durante unos dos minutos para ayudar a ablandar el adhesivo.
También se puede utilizar un secador de pelo, una pistola de calor o una placa caliente, pero tenga cuidado de no sobrecalentar el dispositivo, ya que tanto la pantalla como la batería interna son susceptibles de sufrir daños por el calor.

I used a hair dryer because I don’t own a microwave and didn’t like the idea of boiling the iOpener - which apparently doesn’t work that well anyway. For reference, the hair dryer I used was a CONAIR 1875 Styler. I also used an infrared thermometer, which you’ll absolutely need if you’re not going to use the iOpener. You need the infrared thermometer because you must know when to stop heating the digitizer. There are delicate components nestled in the top of the Switch’s faceplate - right where you’ll be putting the heat. To begin:

1. Prepare your work area by clearing the surrounding surfaces of anything plastic, metal, or electronic - surrounding areas are sure to reach temps of up to 110 °F (43 °C).

2. Get something non-conductive like a small cardboard box to rest the disassembled Switch on top of. This will help to target the heat on the specified area, depending on which step you’re on.

nin10doh - 19/12/21

3. Grab a piece of cardboard and cut it to the shape of the Switch screen, or around the same size. You will need this cardboard to protect the LCD and delicate internals.

4. Set your infrared thermometer to the side or somewhere close to the spot where you’ll be heating the digitizer.

5. Grab your hairdryer and set that to the side as well.

6. Position the Switch on the cardboard box so that you are ready to begin heating the first side of the digitizer as specified in Step 28. I found that it was easier to have the heated side facing me, so that I can hold the hairdryer more comfortably.

7. Begin heating the bottom of the digitizer, starting on the lowest setting of your hairdryer. You’ll want to hold the hairdryer just close enough that you have about three or so inches between the heat and the Switch itself. Heating the digitizer will take some time, so do not expect the temperature to rise rapidly. A rapid rise in temperature can damage sensitive internal components, even with the cardboard piece in place.

nin10doh -

8. After 1 min 30 sec, check the digitizer temperature and make sure that the surface temperature (the opaque black border, not the actual screen) registers at 130 °F (54 °C) or higher. Continue heating on Low until a temperature of 130 °F (54 °C) or higher is reached.

9. When a temperature of 130 °F (54 °C) or higher has been reached, raise the hairdryer another two to three inches from the digitizer. Switch your hairdryer heat setting to High ( or Med, for three-temp hairdryers) and continue heating until a temperature of 161 °F (71 °C) has been reached. Check the temperature every 2 secs to ensure even, consistent heating. Once a temperature of 161 °F (71 °C) has been reached, do not heat the digitizer any further. Doing so could damage the LCD, internal antennas, or faceplate.

10. Repeat steps 6 thru 9 alongside the guide (Steps 28 thru 38) to complete the digitizer adhesive softening process.

Good luck! If this causes anyone any problems, reply here and I’ll try to respond as quickly as possible.

nin10doh -

Paso 29

Aplica una ventosa en la esquina inferior izquierda de la pantalla.
Tira de la ventosa hacia arriba con una fuerza fuerte y constante para crear un hueco.
Dependiendo de la edad de tu dispositivo, esto puede ser difícil. Si tiene problemas, aplica más calor y vuelve a intentarlo.
Introduce la punta de una púa de apertura en el hueco, asegurándote de introducir la púa sólo unos 5 mm.

Used a heat gun at 3/4 power for TWO 2-min bursts. The remainder of the sides each took a single 2-min burst.

Jaxon Lee -

Paso 30

Desliza la púa de apertura a lo largo del borde inferior de la pantalla para cortar el adhesivo.
Deja la púa insertada para evitar que el adhesivo se vuelva a adherir al marco.

Paso 31

Inserta una segunda púa de apertura en la grieta a la izquierda de la primera púa.
Desliza la púa de apertura hacia el lado izquierdo del aparato.
Deje la púa de apertura insertada.

Paso 32

Calienta el borde izquierdo de la pantalla durante unos dos minutos para ayudar a ablandar el adhesivo.

Paso 33

Continúa deslizando la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina inferior izquierda para cortar el adhesivo.

Paso 34

Continúa deslizando el pico de apertura a lo largo del borde izquierdo de la pantalla para cortar al adhesivo.

make sure to follow exactly which side it says to do... i just sliced straight through the digitizer cable doing this ^^" whoops

qu in n -

Paso 35

Calienta el borde superior de la pantalla durante unos dos minutos para ayudar a ablandar el adhesivo.

Paso 36

Continúa deslizando la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda de la pantalla para cortar el adhesivo.

Paso 37

Continúa deslizando la púa de apertura a lo largo del borde superior de la pantalla para cortar el adhesivo.

Paso 38

Calienta el borde derecho de la pantalla durante unos dos minutos para ayudar a ablandar el adhesivo.
Coloca el extremo plano de un spudger en el hueco del borde izquierdo de la pantalla.
Levanta con cuidado y lentamente el borde izquierdo de la pantalla, abriéndolo como un libro.

My digitizer separated from the lcd screen during this step. Wasn’t a problem. Just something to be aware of

Jaxon Lee -

Paso 39

Levanta el borde derecho de la pantalla para sacarla del aparato, pasando los cables de cinta por el marco.
Ten cuidado de no enganchar ninguno de los cables planos en el marco mientras retiras la pantalla.
Puedes reutilizar el adhesivo de la pantalla si todavía está pegajoso. De lo contrario, reemplaza el adhesivo con cinta de doble cara como la cinta Tesa.

What kind of glue is required to re-assembly the screen?

Deedend 77 -

only thing missing. I am scraping the old adhesive off and trying to re-use

Jaxon Lee -

UPDATE: So, I was able to peel off the re-apply the old adhesive. It seems pretty secure, but we’ll see. Otherwise, this step needs an additional detail about what type of adhesive would be ideal to finish this.

Jaxon Lee -

Hi Jaxon!

Thanks for the suggestion! I added an extra bullet for the adhesive.

Arthur Shi -

thank you for the help

Cifiboy -

How many mm wide Tesa tape should I purchase?

Keishin Tamaki -

Paso 40

Calienta el borde superior del ensamble de la pantalla por alrededor de dos minutos para ayudar a suavizar el adhesivo sosteniendo el panel LCD al digitalizador.

Paso 41

Voltea el ensable de la pantalla.
Inserta una púa de apertura en la esquina izquierda superior entre el panel LCD y el digitalizador.
No importa que tan profundo tu insertes la púa de apertura, pero alrededor de 5 mm es suficiente para cortar todo el adhesivo.
Puedes doblar ligeramente el digitalizador para crear una brecha más grande, pero ten cuidado de no doblarlo demasiado para causar daño al digitalizador si lo estas reutilizando.
Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor del borde superior del ensamble de la pantalla para cortar el adhesivo.

Paso 42

Continúa deslizando la púa de apertura alrededor del borde superior para cortar el adhesivo.

Paso 43

Calienta el borde izquierdo del ensamble de la pantalla por alrededor de dos minutos para ayudar a suavizar el adhesivo.

Paso 44

Inserta y desliza la pua de apertura alrededor del borde izquierdo del ensamble de la pantalla para cortar el adhesivo.

Paso 45

Continúa deslizando la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina izquierda inferior del ensamble de la pantalla para cortar el adhesivo.

Paso 46

Calienta el borde inferior del ensamble de la pantalla por alrededor de dos minutos para ayudar a suavizar el adhesivo.

Paso 47

Continua deslizando la pua de apertura alrededor del borde inferior para cortar el adhesivo.

Paso 48

Calienta el borde derecho del ensamble de la pantalla por alrededor de dos minutos para ayudar a suavizar el adhesivo.

Paso 49

Inserta el lado plano de un spudger entre el panel LCD y el digitalizador alrededor del borde izquierdo del ensamble de la pantalla.
Cuidadosamente y lentamente levanta el lado izquierdo del panel LCD, abriéndolo como un libro.

Paso 50

Continua levantando el panel LCD alejándolo del digitalizador para separar los dos componentes.
El cable plano del LCD esta adherido ligeramente al digitalizador. Si no se remueve fácilmente, aplica mas calor a esa area y trata de nuevo.

Paso 51

Solo queda el panel del digitalizador
Si tu nuevo digitalizador no viene con el adhesivo preinstalado, sigue esta guía para instalar el adhesivo precortado alrededor del perímetro antes de volver a montarlo.

Conclusión

Compara la nueva pieza de repuesto con la original. Es posible que tengas que transferir los componentes restantes o retirar los respaldos adhesivos de la nueva pieza antes de instalarla.

Para volver a montar el dispositivo, sigue los pasos anteriores en orden inverso.

Si tu nuevo digitalizador no funciona correctamente después de arrancar el dispositivo, apágalo y desconecta y vuelve a conectar el conector de la batería.

Lleva tus desechos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje certificado.

¿La reparación no salió como planeaste? Intenta algunas soluciones de problemas básicos o pide ayuda a nuestracomunidad de respuestas de Nintendo Switch.

Autor

Craig Lloyd

Miembro Desde 10/02/16

30254 Reputación

6 comentarios

Are Digitizers from original models (HAC-001) and revision models (HAC-001-(01)) compatible?

I don’t mean switch lite but the revision with the longer lasting battery.

GBG HNM - 16/02/21

Yes, the digitizer is compatible with both models!

Craig Lloyd - 16/02/21

The ribbon cable for the digitizer is too short and cannot plug in to the connecter on the game card reader. Any ideas what the issue could be? im using a custom housing for it

Daniel -

there should be a slit on the front housing where the ribbon cable goes straight through to the back. pay attention at where it comes out of on step 39

Ricardo Ortega - 19/04/22

Ive tried replacing the digitizer twice, both were successful but when i took the first one off to replace it i snagged the digitizer cord and figured nothing of it as new digitizers have new cables. But upon implementing a new digitizer and reassembling there was ghost touching (input as if someone was using the touch screen when no one was touching it) the digitizers i previously got were from a sketchy amazon company and both suffered from ghost touching. Was it caused by me snagging the cord? I didnt tear the original cord and didnt yank it hard enough to cause any damage but i have trouble blaming it on the sketchy digitizers as they were both scratched and such but both did it. Seemed too coincidental to be two bad digitizers. Anyone have any thoughts?

Ethan Smith -

excellent repair guide took me about 45 minutes to disassemble and reassemble for a digitizer and LCD replacement. the trickiest part is getting the secondary ribbon cable into its connector on the reassembly everything else is smooth sailing and simple.

Timothy Andrade -