Reemplazo del disco duro del iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2638

Escrito Por: Sam Goldheart
  • Comentarios: 127
Reemplazo del disco duro del iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2638

Dificultad

Moderado

Pasos

29

Tiempo Requerido

1 - 2 horas

Introducción

Utiliza esta guía para reemplazar o actualizar tu disco duro.

  1. SrDNTSYqyhGMRNDC

    • Con la bisagra libre para moverse, el iMac estará desequilibrado y será difícil de trabajar. Las reparaciones son rápidas y fáciles con una cuña iMac, pero se pueden completar sin una.

    • Si estás usando la cuña de servicio iFixit, sigue estas instrucciones de ensamble para armarlo.

    • Antes de comenzar el trabajo en su iMac: Desenchufe la computadora y mantenga presionado el botón de encendido durante diez segundos para vaciar los condensadores de alimentación de energía.

    • Sea muy cuidadoso de no tocar los cables del condensador ni las juntas de soldadura expuestas en la parte posterior de la fuente de alimentación. Solo toque la tabla por los bordes.

    The wedge is an extremely tight fit for this model. I was worried that the amount of force needed to use it as shown might damage the stand, so I used it with the long side down instead. It worked fine that way and didn’t need anywhere near as much force to insert.

    roberttrevellyan -

    Here’s a good YouTube vid on upgrading the RAM: Can a Normal Person Upgrade the RAM in the 2017 21.5" iMac?

    Dan -

    Here are a couple tips from me:

    1) Expose the adhesive to extreme temperatures. I did this by transporting my iMac in my car, screen-down on a piece of cardboard on a cold February morning (in Chicago). When I went to pick up the iMac, the screen practically fell off the chassis. I would have been distraught by this if I hadn’t already planned this replacement. So it was a happy accident.

    2) Remember to expell the residual power from the power supply by pushing the power button while the iMac is unplugged. This does NOT guarantee it’s safe to touch, but when I accidentally brushed the solder and exposed capacitors, I didn’t get shocked.

    jerrid_foiles -

    Instead of using the wedge, I placed the iMac faced up with the top side (web cam) facing me while I ran the pizza roller around. It worked out great!

    Sam Fung -

    “All iMacs also come with a traditional hard drive” mine doesn’t!! it’s HDD bay is completely empty, no SATA cable or anything. I guess I’ll have to upgrade the PCIe SSD instead.

    Chris Hughes -

    There is no replacement glass for this model, it is part of the LCD and impossible to remove or replace- the entire LCD has to be replaced unfortunately if the glass is cracked or damaged. You will have to Google search for a replacement. Also be careful with some of the lock tight tork screws as I broke one of my screw mounts taking one out.

    Phil Tesone -

    I used this service wedge but also found it a very tight fit. The same stabilization can be achieved by using a big rolled up towel.

    Ernst -

    While this is a good instruction guide, I recommend to also look at OWC’s instruction video about drive installation, before starting the exercise. Those install videos are very detailed and useful.

    Ernst -

    Main advice: TAKE YOUR TIME with the pizza roller.

    Make several passes, until you really feel like there's no more sticker in the way. Stay away from the camera though (approx. 1inch / 2.5cm on both sides). This will reduce the work left with the plastic card. Adhesive is really on the edge of the screen so there is absolutely no need to go any further than the recommended 1cm / 3/8inch depth.

    Where are the sensitive parts?

    Facing your iMac, imagine you're looking at a watch. There are antennas on 1, 2 and 4 o'clock. Do not insert any metal piece there (nor anywhere else, btw). Other than that AND the screen cables underneath the camera, not much danger.

    Froggy Manny -

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    • Comenzando a la izquierda de la pantalla, cerca del botón de encendido, inserte la herramienta de apertura iMac en el espacio entre el panel de vidrio y la carcasa trasera.

    • El centro de la herramienta de apertura iMac evitará que empuje demasiado la rueda. Si usa una herramienta diferente, inserte no más de 3/8 "en la pantalla. De lo contrario, corre el riesgo de cortar los cables de la antena y causar daños graves.

    Don’t get too worried about starting exactly where the picture says. The glue is stronger in some parts so just start wherever is easier and then work slowly and patiently around in the direction shown.

    Richard Cook -

    As this guide doesn’t cover replacing the adhesive strips, I found referring to the following was useful (noting that it’s not for the same model of iMac, so the modification they mention wasn’t necessary): Reemplazo de tiras adhesivas de la pantalla de iMac Intel 21.5"

    Alan Digby -

    It is very easy to crack the glass in front of the LCD during this step. I used the guitar pick, maybe it was too thick… crack is just on the frame but anyway it is disappointing :(

    Nikolay -

    This part of the exercise should be done with extreme patience. I took my sweet time with the opening tool, rolling it through the entire panel and enclosure gap over and over again, until I was very sure no parts were sticking together anymore. And when I thought I was I done, I decided to do it over again.

    Ernst -

    You can "warm up" the adhesive before try to cut it with the tool using a hair dryer. Heat the edges for about a minute, keep moving it so you don't cause stress in the glass. Also the above note.. use the tool and then the cards. Do not use a guitar pick or other objects as the thickness will cause you to break the front glass, which is a bonded part of the display (expensive).

    Carl Schultz -

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    • Use la herramienta parecido a un cortador de pizza: gírelo a lo largo de la abertura para cortar el adhesivo de espuma por el centro.

    • Asegúrese de empujar siempre con la manija detrás de la rueda de corte. Si tira, la rueda podría salirse del mango.

    • Mueva la herramienta hacia arriba a lo largo del lado izquierdo de la pantalla.

    Erreur de traduction: "de bas en haut" et non de" haut en bas" sur le côté gauche de l'écran

    Moreau -

    If re-opening a screen that was opened and re-attached using iFixit’s adhesive strips, I would strongly recommend heating it first with an iOpener, heat gun or hair dryer. 20 minutes after attaching with the iFixit adhesive I tried to open it again with the pizza slicer to fix something and cracked the screen on the left-hand side.

    plasticpool -

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    • Siga moviendo la herramienta hacia arriba alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda

    Ne pincez pas l’écran avec l’autre main. Vous exercez une pression inutile sur le verre et empêchez la roulette de couper le joint.

    phfoglia -

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    • Corte el adhesivo a lo largo de la esquina superior izquierda de la pantalla.

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    • Continúa por la parte superior de la pantalla.

    • Es posible que desee mover la herramienta hacia adelante y hacia atrás a través de lo que ya ha cortado varias veces, para asegurarse de retirar la mayor cantidad de adhesivo como sea posible.

    In this step can I cut along the display without make any damage to the front camera?

    arisnordico -

    Hi! Actually - there is no need to cut the tape around the camera area - there is no tape to cut at all! And so, the way go is easy - just pass 10 mm to the left and to the right from camera and start cutting!

    P.S. Just did the whole procedure to replace a RAM and to add SSD on PSIe an hour ago! Seems to be different reading the instructions... you know - 2/10 and so on. But it's really not that hard, trust me. I'll give it 5/10.

    P.P.S. By the way there is one trick to pass the difficult steps. Any action which requires pulling smth (motherboard, speaker, power supply unit) from the narrow crack (or should i say - slit?) at the bottom of your Imac is really not so easy.

    And the trick is to first remove a thin metal stripe with some kind of insulation on it which held by 5 small (very small!!) screws at the bottom of your Imac. After you done it - it's easy to pull everything! Pay attention to the fact that one of this 5 screws at the center are more shortly than others.

    dv1977 -

    I did all steps like this manuell but now the Display wont work only some colered strips are to see! Whats happend??

    Can anybody help me ? Maybe the connector cable is broken?

    djfanta -

    Check both connectors, probably one of them not seated well

    pzhivulin -

    You can add a SATA SSD if you already have a PCIe SSD Factory?

    kaserlik -

    If you're changing cracked EMC 2638 display to new assembly, there's two more steps:

    Step 24: Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

    Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the display assembly.

    Step 25: Use the tip of a spudger to unplug bracket of the thermal sensor small cable near display data cable.

    Carefully remove scotch tape covering thermal sensor. Using iSesamo or flat tip of the spudger carefully peel the thermal sensor away.

    pzhivulin -

    omg - forgot to switch the termal sensor from the old display...

    now fan runs like crazy...

    Andrei Balotescu -

    The key thing is to never put any force on the opening tool when working through the tape. Just roll it back and forth with ease.

    Ernst -

  7. eDPbRqQfKjS4oUnZ
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    • Empuje la herramienta alrededor de la esquina superior derecha de la pantalla.

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    • Mueva la herramienta hacia abajo a lo largo del lado derecho de la pantalla.

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    • Finalice empujando la herramienta de apertura hacia la parte inferior del lado derecho de la pantalla.

    • En este punto, se recomienda volver a pasar la herramienta en toda la pantalla para asegurarse de cortar la mayor cantidad de adhesivo posible.

    Yes, do it many times to loosen the adhesive.

    Noah Ralston -

    Would be good data to show the 3 areas (wifi antennas where the "tape" is larger and covers them. The rest of the "tape" is 1.4" and easy. Also after removing the display, be sure to remove the old "tape" from both the display and the rubber parts of the case. Use the spudger to start an end and it should pull off easily. Careful on the baackside of the display as you can scratch off the black paint/covering.

    Carl Schultz -

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    • Mientras que la herramienta de apertura corta la mayor parte del adhesivo, la pantalla aún estará ligeramente adherida a la caja. Se necesitará una tarjeta de plástico para liberar el último adhesivo.

    • Coloque el iMac boca arriba en una mesa.

    • Comenzando desde la esquina superior derecha del iMac, coloque una tarjeta de plástico entre la pantalla y el marco.

    • Tenga cuidado de NO insertar la tarjeta de plástico más de 3/8 ", o puede dañar los componentes internos.

    this step is extremely important NOT to stick in the cards too far….. doing so, you risk a 600 euro replacement as I experienced………

    Edgar Broekema -

    I drew a 3/8” line on my cards with a marker first.

    Max Romano -

    I’m reading this on the EU store, please change all measurements to cm/mm.

    Morgana Devina -

    @ifixit The next batch of cards you create should have a line printed on the card 3/8” in from the edges. Would make a nice reference.

    Richard Giratd -

    Here’s where OWC provides glass removal suction cups, which is a better solution than plastic cards.

    The suction cups help to easily lift the glass panel, without risking the damaging of any internal wiring that the plastic cards could cause.

    Ernst -

    Better to remove stand wedge at this point? Can’t see from pics

    derekrobinson -

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    • Gire suavemente la tarjeta de plástico hacia los lados para crear un espacio entre la pantalla y el marco.

    • Muévase despacio y tenga cuidado de no estresar demasiado el cristal de la pantalla; solo necesita hacer un espacio de aproximadamente 1/4 ".

    This part must be done very carefully or you can damage the flat cable from display, despite it was under a iron cover.

    Cassio Machado -

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    • Deslice la tarjeta hacia el centro de la pantalla para cortar el resto del adhesivo a lo largo de la esquina superior derecha del iMac.

    • Asegúrese de detenerse antes de la cámara iSight, o puede dañarla.

    You don't need to do it like this, simply open the iMac bendidng the LCD completely and use the pizza cutter to remove the adhesive.

    Felix -

    Using glass removal suction cups will avoid running this risk of damaging the camera (or any wiring).

    Ernst -

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    • Vuelva a acuñar la tarjeta de plástico en la esquina superior derecha y déjela allí para evitar que el adhesivo se mueva.

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    • Inserta una segunda tarjeta de plástico en el espacio entre la pantalla y el marco cerca de la esquina superior izquierda del iMac.

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    • Gire suavemente la tarjeta hacia arriba, aumentando ligeramente el espacio entre la pantalla y el marco.

    • Al igual que con el otro lado, gírelo lentamente para permitir que el tiempo del adhesivo se separe, y tenga cuidado de no sobre tensar el vidrio de la pantalla.

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    • Deslice la tarjeta de plástico hacia el centro, deteniéndose de nuevo justo antes de la cámara iSight.

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    • Cuña la tarjeta de plástico en la esquina superior izquierda.

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    • Con ambas tarjetas de plástico insertadas como se muestra cerca de las esquinas, gire suavemente las tarjetas hacia los lados para aumentar el espacio entre la pantalla y la carcasa.

    • Si hay secciones que parecen adherirse y no se separan, deje de girar y use una de las tarjetas para cortar el adhesivo restante.

    • Comience a levantar la parte superior de la pantalla desde el marco.

    • Solo levante la pantalla unas pulgadas: los datos de la pantalla y los cables de alimentación todavía están conectados a la placa lógica.

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    • Mientras sostienes la pantalla con una mano, usa la otra para desconectar el cable de energía de la pantalla.

    • Levanta la pantalla lo suficiente para tener un acceso fácil al conector, pero no demasiado ya que puedes estirar los cables y estresar sus conexiones (aproximadamente 8" (20 cm)).

    Pulling the display power cable by the wires makes me nervous..

    bstaud -

    I had a small flight light ready so I could see. Follow the directions - don’t blindly pull.

    Noah Ralston -

    Head lamp gives you the best hands free view!

    Macrepair SF -

    bstaud - The display power cable has two squeezable levers on each end of the cable’s width.

    Squeeze the left lever with your thumb while you simultaneously squeeze the right lever with your

    index finger, and gently pull the cable straight back and out, and the cable comes out very easily.

    Ted Horodynsky -

    When reassembling, make sure you get a “click” confirmation that both the levers have locked AND the pins have seated on this connector. I was treated to a black screen upon startup, and had to re-cut my newly installed adhesive strips to get back in to firm up this connection. Better would be power up with the bottom adhesive in place, screen resting in place and held on top with blue painter tape to confirm connections, THEN pull off screen-side adhesive tape covers for final re-bonding.

    Robert McKillip -

    Can someone post a link to actually purchase these cables?

    Jay Hernandez -

    E-bay had one for me

    Roger -

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    • Usa la punta de un spudger para voltear hacia arriba el soporte de retención metálico en el cable de datos de la pantalla.

    • Con cuidado tira del cable de datos de la pantalla de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Asegúrate de tirar de forma recta el cable de datos de la pantalla fuera de su zócalo.

    Sure could use a magnified picture of this connector and socket, especially the first time you go in. And it is the most critical step of the whole operation — bung it up and we’re toast.

    bstaud -

    Hi bstaud! If you hover over the image you can click on the magnifying glass and get a large image of any guide photo. Hope that helps!

    Sam Goldheart -

    To clarify, the connector pulls out in the plane of the logic card, not perpendicular.

    David Thompson -

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    • Levanta la pantalla hasta una posición casi vertical.

    • En este punto aún hay una tira adhesiva a lo largo de la parte inferior de la pantalla, que mantendrá la pantalla al marco como si fuera una bisagra. Puedes aflojar este adhesivo subiendo y bajando la pantalla un par de veces.

    Where can I find a replacement display for my iMac?

    Braydon Boyce -

    iFixit has listings for replacements. Go to the Parts section

    jerrid_foiles -

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    • Ten mucho cuidado de no tocar los cables del condensador o cualquier unión de soldadura expuesta en la parte posterior de la fuente de alimentación (encuadrada en rojo).

    • Toma la lengüeta pequeña al final de una de las tiras adhesivas de la pantalla del borde inferior y tira del adhesivo hacia la parte superior del iMac para quitarlo.

    • Repite este paso con la otra tira adhesiva y retírala.

    • Si cualquiera de las tiras adhesivas se rompe antes de quitarla, usa una tarjeta de plástico para cortar el adhesivo restante.

    Cutting through this extra adhesive on the bottom took a bit more effort than the step and picture implied (to me). Unlike the other edges, here don't be afraid to really push the card in there to break the seal, there's nothing behind that adhesive that is breakable.

    phil -

    cutting through the adhesive is unnecessary if it's not been opened before (outside of an apple store) there will be a tab at the end of each VHB strip that you can use to simply pull the vhb strips off.

    Rory McKenna -

    YES, exactly the same here. more but more simple.

    Lucio Alves -

    To save a few steps and a bit of time, if you have a helper, they can hold the display at a 90° angle while you unscrew the brackets and remove/replace the hard drive rather than remove the display entirely. Also reduces the likelihood of damaging the display as you remove and handle it.

    marty -

    The proper way to remove the display according to the Macintosh tech manual and videos is as Rory McKenna and Lucio Alves have learned is to pull the tab at the end of each VHB strip until it is off.

    Ben Varela -

    This worked great! look for small left over adhesive on either edge of the bottom of the screen and pull each one towards the center. Screen assembly removes after that with no fuss.

    Miguel Rivas -

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    • Levanta la pantalla fuera del marco y quítala del iMac.

    • Puede ser necesario levantarla lentamente de un lado, para despegar el adhesivo remanente.

    • Ten mucho cuidado cuando lleves la pantalla; es grande, pesada, y está hecha de vidrio.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, diríjete a nuestra guía de adhesivos para pantallas para instalar el nuevo adhesivo.

  24. eJkD4BRQM4pFSEkg

    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que aseguran el soporte del disco duro a la carcasa posterior:

    • Dos tornillos Torx T10 de 21 mm de la izquierda.

    • Un tornillo Torx T10 de 9 mm.

    • Un tornillo Torx T10 de 27 mm.

    Pay attention to this photo and where the fan is. It is 180° from where the previous step shows it is oriented to you.

    Max Romano -

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    • Remueve los soportes izquierdo y derecho del disco duro del iMac.

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    • Levanta el disco duro desde el borde más cercano a la placa lógica y extraelo un poco del hueco.

    • El disco duro está conectado por un solo cable de alimentación / datos SATA; no intentes extraerlo completamente del iMac todavía.

    The newer drives have rubber ends and an adhesive side, be careful removing them if replacing the drive and be sure they are securely pushed back into the holder

    Carl Schultz -

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    • Usa un spudger para desconectar el único cable combinado de alimentación y datos SATA separando suavemente su gran conector de plástico del disco duro.

    When reconnecting the SATA cable, there is nothing to make the connector hold still, and it is hard to reach, so it took several tries. I ended up taking off the rubber baby buggy bumpers to get more room, and then jamming them back on after getting the SATA connector snugged up.

    bstaud -

    If by rubber baby buggy bumper, you mean left speaker, then yes, I agree. Reinstall the hard drive before the left speaker.

    jerrid_foiles -

    Kudo to @jerrid_foiles! I was going crazy trying to attach the SATA cable until I took the two screws out of the left speaker and slid the top end of it aside by about 3/4 inch. Make the whole process SO MUCH easier!!

    jiclark -

    We solved this by removing the hard drive tray screw, then inserting the cable into the SATA hard drive. Then hold the hard drive a bit out of the way to insert the 7.3mm hard drive tray screw.

    Marjie -

    Agree with this method, found it an impossible task to reconnect the SATA connector until removed the tray screw, then it was relatively easy to reconnect and then replace the tray screw.

    daveedwards -

    Also agree with this method!

    jmorphett5 -

  28. gPY6hXsOGJ1vn6ij

    • Retira el conjunto del disco duro del iMac.

    When reassembling, I found it easier to loosen the HD tray screw from Step 48 and pull the tray outwards from the left side in order to plug the SATA cable in more easily.

    Cool_Breeze -

    Thanks! I, too, had a hard time reconnecting the SATA cable.

    boboswell -

    I found this helpful too!

    Anwar -

    And DON’T do what I did, which is to remove the left speaker - which can easily lead to breaking the cable between the power on button and the power supply. The cable is routed through a hidden slot at the very bottom of the left speaker

    bsmith1 -

    I did loosen the speaker so I could get a tool behind the SATA cable to push it on to the SSD drive. Otherwise hard to align cable.

    Noah Ralston -

    I found the easiest way to connect the SATA cable was to not screw the plastic hard drive tray down until you plug the drive in. That way you can easily push the connector in and due to the cable you’ve got some wiggle room. You can position the tray then just lift one end of the drive up and secure the screw. Then just push the drive down.

    Chris Caldwell -

    This was the step that I had the most trouble with. I’m used to replacing a hard drive in a MacBook Pro, where the “plug” that you plug the drive into is a rigid thing that you can firmly press the hard drive into.

    With the iMac, the plug is situated on the end of a non-rigid cord, so the plug moves back when you try to snap a drive into it. Also, those two rubber gasket things that you adhere to the side of the drive really make it difficult to maneuver the now-overly-chubby drive towards the plug.

    After must frustration/concern, what I ended up doing was temporarily removing the rubber gasket things, using the “spudger” as kind of a lever behind the “plug on a cord” so that it didn’t move as much, and then pushed the gasket-less SSD into the plug.

    Once I got it connected, I put the rubber gaskets back on the sides of the SSD and kind of coaxed it down into place, using the pointy end of the spudger to get the chubby corner pieces to “sit” correctly in the rigid plastic tray that the SSD kind of rests in.

    Jack OnFlickr -

    From another comment elsewhere on this repair, I *highly* recommend removing the two screws holding the left speaker in place, then sliding it just a tad out of the way to be able to easily attach the SATA cable. You don’t have to move it much to make the whole process so much easier!

    jiclark -

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    • Despega los protectores de goma del disco duro de los bordes superior e inferior del disco duro.

    Hi,

    I would like to change my standard HDD of 1To to a SSD following these instructions. All the SSD can be used like SSD Crucial BX100 500 Go or Crucial MX200 500 Go ?

    Thanks

    Denenden -

    And Samsung 850 Evo, but you should think how to solve the cooler problem before you start, because there's no thermal cable in those SSD's.

    pzhivulin -

    Hi, is it important to use a HDD as replacement/upgrade from the same manufacturer like it is on older iMacs with 3,5" HDD? I'm thinking of the thermal sensor (which isn't there in this case) and the hispeed fans issue. Any hints appreciated :)

    Mac -

    there is a cable adapter you can buy with an inline thermal sensor on it to attach to the outside of the drive

    Dan -

    I was under the impressoin that this model, with it’s 2.5” drive, had no extra thermal issues like other older iMacs. Meaning you could just pop any other SATA 2.5” drive in there and the fans would operate normally.

    Other comments seem to imply this is not the case? I’ve never seen sensors or adapters for this model of Mac?

    John M -

    You are correct, John. Per OWC Tech support, no thermal sensor cable needed for the 2.5” HDD, SDD on this 21.5” iMac.

    Macrepair SF -

    So. i do not need to install a temp sensor when upgrading to a SSD drive? The guy at a service repair stated that I did need to. SO. im confused. I ordered one from ifixit

    Rdatlnt1 -

    I had to take out the 10 torr screw holding the bottom bracket done in order to get enough room to connect the new hard drive to the cable; before attaching bumpers

    provda -

    Me too. Had to do the same

    nv. -

    thank you…easy repair

    rmolway1 -

    I am so glad to discover that this process isn’t nearly as difficult as I thought it might be!! The hardest part is reattaching the SATA cable to the new hard drive, but removing the screws that hold the left speaker in place and sliding it aside just a tad makes it easy peasy!!

    jiclark -

    It’s worth noting you may loosen q the left air Ram (plastic part) by removing the torx screws to gain extra access to the SATA cables if required.

    Andy Carver -

    Does any formatting need to be done with the drive before installing? Or it’s a plug and go and MacOS will prompt the install?

    Phillip Ray -

    any recommendations for the adhesive to use when re attaching the screen?

    Bryan Mclean -

    there are “adhesive-strips” that you can buy from the ifixit-store

    Nicolas Spitzauer -

    +1 any recommendations for the adhesive to reattach the screen?

    Carlos Cervantes -

    @carlos Cervantes

    The best is to buy them from Ifixit : good adhesive, holes well marked, and numbered as in the explanations to do it : no problem at all

    philippe -

    My iMac 2013 21inch is a factory upgraded SSD, can I have if they still have SATA cable and the rubber surrounding the HDD/SSD ? I want a bigger SSD but don’t want to touch the PCIe. Thanks

    mariolau87 -

Conclusión

Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

Autor

Sam Goldheart

Miembro Desde 19/10/12

457951 Reputación

39 comentarios

Super awesome instructions, As always easy to follow, swapped out he drive pretty quick. makes me miss the magnets for sure.

Justin Weathersbee -

Guide was great, didn't take long at all. I hope the adhesive proceeds to stick now that I put the glass back on!

MITG -

Be sure to position the screen all the way down on reassembly. I sort of tried to hinge it back, resulting in a little space of a fraction of a millimeter. Had to push the screen down when attaching the rest of it.

Daniel JB -

Great instructions, I chose to purchase the adhesive strips from Ifixit and they worked great, much easier than trying to shape your own plus they stick really well.

Alan Petten -

Great instructions. Is it possible to replace HD with a SSD Samsung EVO ?

thanks

Claudio Tumeo -

I believe the EVO is what I used in my iMac at home, but it was a while ago and I honestly do not remember for certain. In my experience though you can replace an HDD with pretty much any SSD that meets your capacity requirements. Some have better specs than others, but ~any~ SSD is going to have alarmingly better performance than an HDD. I have totally revitalized three computers that would otherwise have been put out to pasture, by the simple act of replacing the hard drive with an SSD. Working on an iMac is a bit more daunting than many others, but following these instructions, and being very "Zen" about it, taking your time, having the tools and materials laid out and ready at hand, being focused and not rushed, should result in a great upgrade, and a computer better than new.

Keith Gardner -

So on this model we don't need to worry about a thermal sensor or the fan going into overdrive after swapping the drive?

alyssaengleson -

That's is correct :)

Daniel JB -

Great guide. One thing I did on the reassembly was to loosen the speaker next to the drive bay so that I could get my fat fingers in to push the SATA connector onto the new drive.

Good job!

James Metcalfe -

Step 21 is a little nerve wracking … however, if you look closely, each corner had a small section of tape that looked like a starter strip. If you pull that up and then, once loosened, pull toward you - the entire strip of tape will come off making the display removal very simple.

Joe Husk -

Yes. Buy the adhesive strips, and the tools, so you don’t have to stop and scrounge around the shop/basement/house/office for tool-equivalents.

bstaud -

Very apprehensive at first when taking on upgrading my iMac 21.5” Late 2013 Hard Drive with a Samsung Evo 860 SSD. Followed this hard drive replacement/ upgrade guide, plus the ‘clone and existing drive’ and ‘how to re-apply your iMac display’ and had it done with 2 hours. Fantastic guides, easy to follow and carry out. Thank you.

Nicholas Lake -

Upgraded my 2014 iMac to an SSD and Its so much easier than I thought it would be. From start to finish the teardown was complete in about 30 min. The wheel and cards worked perfectly and the adhesive was easy to use. I like tearing this one down better than the older iMac. No screws or magnets to deal with.

Joe Henry -

Good instructions!

Thanks

[deleted] -

Hi, dont you need to replace / substitute the thermal sensor? thanks

Christian Fleckl -

No, there's no need on this model!

Daniel JB -

Awesome.. was about to upgrade my ram but used SSD as external and seems fast.. going to follow the instruction and replace with Samsung Evo 860

Crazy Punk -

Would you mind linking me to the specific Samsung Evo 860 you used? I think I’m going to attempt this switch, and a RAM upgrade too, but I don’t want to get the wrong model!

Thanks

Daniel Hearn -

unscrewing the speaker to shift out of the way makes plugging in the new hard drive much easier.

Phillip Ray -

With the tools from iFixit I encountered no problems, not even the ones mentioned in some comments. Everything worked fine. Just make sure to carefully reattach the display cables and keep their plugs clean.

Bachsau -

do you need a special ssd disc to make it fit in the iMac or can i just buy a Samsung ssd?

Oynes -

Very good guide. Just what i needed

Susanna verner -

Hi after installation what do we do with the hard drive? Does it need formatting and installing OS?

Double C -

2013 iMac. What if you replaced it with an SSD? Anything extra needed?

Danny Hoover -

Hi, there isn't hard drive temperature sensor like previous iMac 2009 or 2010?

Thank you.

Domenico -

These are great instructions. Combined with the correct tools from iFixit, it’s a snap. Thanks!!

Jeff -

The hardest part was replacing the adhesive. I wish there was a link for those instructions. Also, I would like to see links for instructions on the software side- how to get the computer working again. Thanks

Catherine B -

I am upgrading my Imac 27inch 2013 to a ssd drive. Do I need to buy the sensor lead. Been reading somewhere and I dont need to buy the sensor lead as its only for older Imac’s.

Michael Hancock -

Are the screen suctions cups no longer an option for repairing iMacs? I’ve done older ones that had the outer glass held in with magnets. They were easy to remove. I can’t believe there were 18 steps on this iMac with using the wheel and the cars before you could lift the screen. Getting intimidated.

subscriptions -

Tutoriel avec descriptions vraiment minutieuses. Pour ma part, j’ai utilisé une roulette ordinaire du commerce (Rotary Cutter Ø45 mm) dont la lame ne dépasse que de 5-6 mm la butée et des écarteurs découpés dans un plat de couverture GBC (épaisseur 0.8 mm) en leur donnant une forme plus longue que le côté d’une carte de crédit. En plus, avec un “hot air gun” j’ai chauffé avec précaution le bord de l’écran pour ramollir le joint. Tout a bien fonctionné.

Jean-Pierre BRUPBACHER -

bonjour,

La colle (autocollant double face) est répartie uniformément tout autour de l’écran.

Le pouvoir collant est lié à la surface de colle (le périmètre autour de l’écran).

L’intérêt et objet de la coupe latérale (avec un objet) est qu’il vient séparer la “colle” physiquement, presque sans aucun effort (et correspond à la perpendiculaire du pouvoir collant (force et intérêt recherché par la pose de la colle)).

L’opération consiste donc à couper et lever (désolidariser) légèrement l’écran de la structure aluminium afin que la colle ne reprenne pas.

L’usage de la chaleur va faire perdre le pouvoir collant du scotch.

Problème : la chauffe des éléments comporte des risques, aussi je ne recommande pas tellement l’air chaud ici (difficile à maitriser si pas d’outils adapté = mesure température).

A vous de voir le bénéfice risque.

Le pb est que souvent la manipulation est exécutée par une personne pour la première fois, et plus jamais ensuite.

Donc le processus d’apprentissage manuelle est limitée (coup de main).

Sébastien -

Doing this and not using an actual Apple hard drive will not turn out well in the end. A thermal sensor is needed to control the fan speed which I believe the fan is regulated if you have an actual apple HD. OWC sales the thermal sensors but they have none for the late 2012 - 21.5, the 27inch they do have it.

QuickTech -

Hello I have Time Capsule backup and iMac is running Catalina. How can I re install the operating system in the new SSD after this disk replacement? Thanks a lot.

Santiago Enciso -

Very easy process, just takes a little patience. I can highly recommend the bundle set they do with Hard drive etc as this helped no end and also gives you new adhesive tape for re sealing the device which you will need. Very happy and glad to get rid of that awful 5400RPM hard drive. This iMac is now 7 years old and now out performs my 2019 i5 Surface Book 2 for boot up speed.

jimbobcook -

A little intimidating at first, but turned out well, was simple to follow with no issues along the way. Very satisfied with the outcome and the mac is useable again. Performance uplift is huge and most of all I can get many more years out of the device.

Rostislav Troyak -

I didnt see a temperature sensor needed in the instructions when replacing the HD with an SSD in the 21.5” imac as it shows in the 27” imacs. Is it not needed in the 21.5” ?

Chuck Tennenbaum -

After getting an estimate over $1000 from the local Apple store, I purchased the 1Tb Crucial SSD kit. The instructions were very good, the tools and parts supplied perfect. While I had the drive out I removed the fan and blew 7 years of dust out of the heatsink and fan. Used online recovery and Time Machine to transfer the OS and data to the new drive. Speed difference is like night and day - approx 15 seconds from power on to logon prompt. The case and cable for the old drive is icing on the cake.

Peter -

Do not just pull on the power cable as instructed in this guide because you will cause irreversible damage to components. Instead there are clips on each end that need to be depressed to release the power cable, then pull straight out.

Clay -

My iFixIt "iMac Intel 21.5# SSD Upgrade Bundle / Crucial 500GB / USB 3.0 Metal Drive Enclosure..." Items #173042-13 kit came with some extra parts not described in any parts list or instructions for either the Fixit kit or Crucial SSD drive:

1) A black plastic frame, the same size as the ssd drive

2) A round foam disc, approx 1"x 1/8 inch, with peel-able adhesive

3) 4 tiny black phillips head screws

And going the other way, the included bit driver with three bits only contained two bits.

Any ideas?

Jonathan -