Reemplazo del ensamblaje de conector lightning del iPhone 8.

Escrito Por: Arthur Shi

Comentarios: 213

Reemplazo del ensamblaje de conector lightning del iPhone 8.

Dificultad

Moderado

Pasos

Tiempo Requerido

1 - 2 horas

Introducción

Sigue esta guía para reemplazar el ensamblaje del conector Lightning. Esto incluye los micrófonos inferiores, el cable adaptador de antena y el conector Lightning.

Herramientas

Partes

Paso 1

Introduce una herramienta de eyección de tarjeta SIM o un clip para papel en el pequeño orificio de la bandeja de la tarjeta SIM.
Presiona firmemente para expulsar la tarjeta.
Esto podría requerir una gran cantidad de fuerza. Sin embargo, asegúrate de antemano de que la herramienta de eyección esté correctamente alineada para no dañar el mecanismo de eyección dentro del teléfono

Prolly goes without saying, but should you power off phone before this step?

jklue - 19/08/21

If you are merely swapping the SIM card, you don’t need to power off your iPhone. If you plan to do any repairs that involve opening the phone, you should definitely power off your iPhone.

Arthur Shi -

Paso 2

Remueve la bandeja de la tarjeta SIM del iPhone.
La tarjeta SIM saldrá de la bandeja fácilmente.
Cuando vuelvas a introducir la tarjeta SIM, asegúrate de que esté en la orientación correcta en la bandeja.
Hay una junta delgada de goma alrededor de la bandeja SIM que proporciona protección contra el agua y el polvo. Si esta junta se dañase o perdiese, reemplaza la junta o la bandeja SIM completa para proteger los componentes internos de tu iPhone.

Paso 3

Antes de comenzar, descarga la batería de tu iPhone por debajo del 25%. Una batería de iones de litio cargada puede incendiarse y / o explotar si se perfora accidentalmente.
Apaga tu iPhone antes de comenzar el desmontaje.
Retira los dos tornillos pentalobe de 3,5 mm en el borde inferior del iPhone.
La apertura de la pantalla del iPhone comprometerá sus sellos de impermeabilidad. Ten listos los sellos de repuesto antes de seguir adelante con este paso, o ten cuidado de evitar la exposición a líquidos si vuelve a ensamblar su iPhone sin reemplazar los sellos.

just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…

An. Jahnke - 27/12/20

I would recommend, from the very beginning, dumping all tools out of the kit (if you got it) and using that white paper tool box as a tray to organize the screws and braces in. It’s nice to work over because it catches screws well and makes it easy to see them if you drop any.

Johnny Emrica -

That’s a great idea thank you

Mohamed Dekkiche -

Screw to the left of the charging port will not come out. Screw on the right came out no problem. Any ideas?

Bill Maher -

Paso 4

Calentar el borde inferior del iPhone ayudará a suavizar el adhesivo que asegura la pantalla, facilitando la apertura.
Usa un secador de pelo o prepara un iOpener y aplícalo en el borde inferior del teléfono durante aproximadamente 90 segundos para suavizar el adhesivo que se encuentra debajo.

No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

John Toth - 13/10/20

Hello,

What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

Jiří Sítko - 28/01/21

Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)

Moritz Hartges - 18/04/21

I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

Nate B -

If you don’t have an “iOpener” or heat gun, try using an electric heating pad. I have a small $11 pad I got at CVS for my knee. On medium heat it worked fine for removal and with the “pennies” for setting the new seal.

Pete P -

I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!

Adam Yavner -

I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.

terrelldoc -

I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.

Matt Brown -

I'm holding mine just above an erupting volcano but I'm still waiting to see if it has worked. How long does it need?

Paul Aron -

I used a water-filled ziploc bag, heated it in microwave. fast, cheap, worked.

John Barker -

Paso 5

Los siguientes dos pasos demuestran el Anti-Clamp, una herramienta que diseñamos para facilitar el procedimiento de apertura. Si no estás utilizando Anti-Clamp, salta dos pasos hacia abajo para obtener un método alternativo.
Para obtener instrucciones completas sobre cómo usar Anti-Clamp, consulta esta guía.
Tira de la manija azul hacia la bisagra para desactivar el modo de apertura.
Coloca las ventosas cerca del borde inferior del iPhone, justo encima del botón de inicio, una en el frente y otra en la parte posterior.
Empuja hacia abajo las copas para aplicar succión en el área deseada.
Si encuentras que la superficie de tu dispositivo es demasiado resbaladiza para que el Anti-Clamp la sujete, puedes usar cinta de embalaje para crear una superficie más adherente.

Paso 6

Empuja la manija azul lejos de la bisagra para activar el modo de apertura.
Gira el mango en el sentido de las agujas del reloj hasta que veas que las copas comienzan a estirarse.
Asegúrate de que las ventosas permanezcan alineadas entre sí. Si comienzan a salirse de la alineación, afloje ligeramente las ventosas y vuelve a alinear los brazos.
Espera un minuto para que el adhesivo se suelte y se abra la parte inferior de la pantalla.
Inserta una púa de apertura debajo de la pantalla cuando Anti-Clamp cree un espacio lo suficientemente grande.
Si el Anti-Clamp no crea un espacio suficiente, aplica más calor al área y gira la manija en el sentido de las agujas del reloj media vuelta.
No des más de media vuelta a la vez y espera un minuto entre vueltas. Deja que el Anti-Clamp y el tiempo hagan el trabajo por ti.
Omite los siguientes dos pasos.

Paso 7

Aplica una ventosa en la mitad inferior del panel frontal, justo encima del botón de inicio.
Asegúrate de que la ventosa no se superponga con el botón de inicio, ya que esto evitará que se forme un sello entre la ventosa y el cristal frontal.
Si tu pantalla está muy agrietada, cubrirla con una capa de cinta adhesiva transparente puede permitir que la ventosa se adhiera. Alternativamente, se puede usar una cinta muy fuerte en lugar de la ventosa. Si todo lo demás falla, puedes pegar la ventosa a la pantalla rota.

Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

Aaron Soderholm - 04/12/20

As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …

Johnny Emrica -

Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!

J Rawlinson -

Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun

Bradley Steiner -

iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.

Matti Haveri -

Paso 8

Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa con una presión firme y constante para crear un pequeño espacio entre el panel frontal y la caja trasera.
Inserta un púa de apertura en el espacio.
El adhesivo hermético que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar es muy fuerte; crear esta brecha inicial requiere una gran cantidad de fuerza. Si te resulta difícil abrir un espacio, aplica más calor y balancea suavemente la pantalla hacia arriba y hacia abajo para debilitar el adhesivo hasta que cree suficiente espacio para insertar la herramienta.

The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

charguy - 31/05/18

Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

Brian Gill - 29/09/19

I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(

Michael Sherman - 31/05/21

Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

Chris Wood -

Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

Johnny Emrica -

Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.

Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.

- For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.

- Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.

In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.

Howard -

4 picks and an exacto knife, plus 45 minutes later, I finally got it to open! Thanks tor the tip!

Cat -

Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.

I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?

Jim Meyers -

After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...

- I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button

- the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip

- tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in

- leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick

Jared Wilk -

Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.

hunter.geofizz -

I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.

Alessio Toniolo -

Suction cup pliers. Dead easy

Bradley Steiner -

Paso 9

Desliza la púa de apertura hacia arriba por el borde izquierdo del teléfono comenzando en el borde inferior y moviéndose hacia los botones de control de volumen y el interruptor de silencio, rompiendo el adhesivo que mantiene la pantalla en su lugar.
Detente cerca de la esquina superior izquierda de la pantalla.
No intentes sacar el borde superior de la pantalla de la caja posterior, ya que se sujeta con clips de plástico que se pueden romper.

My Plektrum worked ok, but the edges broke off a bit towards the end

griffin.weber -

Paso 10

Vuelve a insertar tu herramienta en la esquina inferior derecha del iPhone, y deslízala alrededor de la esquina y hacia arriba del lado derecho del teléfono para separar el adhesivo.
No insertes la púa muy lejos, o puedes dañar los cables de la pantalla a lo largo de este lado del iPhone. Insértalo solo unos pocos milímetros, o aproximadamente el ancho del bisel de la pantalla.

No pick in the kit you sent me.

Ted Cooper -

Paso 11

Levanta suavemente la ventosa para levantar el borde inferior de la pantalla.
No levantes la pantalla más de 15º o corres el riesgo de forzar o romper los cables planos que conectan la pantalla.
Tira de la pequeña protuberancia en la ventosa para quitarlo del panel frontal.

Paso 12

Desliza una púa de apertura debajo de la pantalla alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda y a lo largo del borde superior del teléfono para aflojar el último adhesivo.

I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help

Karen Flowers -

I have been using the pointed tweezers to pull the adhesive strands apart and out as the display comes off.

Adam Yavner -

Paso 13

Desliza el ensamblaje de la pantalla ligeramente hacia abajo (lejos del borde superior del teléfono) para desenganchar los clips que lo sujetan a la caja trasera.

Paso 14

Abre el iPhone moviendo la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como la contratapa de un libro.
No intentes separar por completo la pantalla todavía, ya que varios cables planos frágiles aún la conectan a la placa lógica del iPhone.
Apoya la pantalla contra algo para mantenerlo apuntalado mientras está trabajando con el teléfono.

Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

Manfred Wachtel - 12/05/20

Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!

Sebastian Plickert - 23/04/21

“Up from the left” means lift up the left side.

Which is the same as folding to the right.

“Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.

Maybe it gets lost in translation?

Nick Shtangey -

Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!

Jim Glenys -

When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!

Jim Glenys -

Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!

Adam O'Camb -

Paso 15

Remueve los cuatro tornillos Phillips que sujetan el soporte de cable de pantalla inferior a la placa lógica, de los siguientes largos:
Dos tornillos 1,3 mm
Dos tornillos 2,8 mm
Durante esta guía, controle sus tornillos para que cada uno vuelva de donde salió cuando vuelva a ensamblar. Instalar un tornillo en el lugar equivocado puede causar daño permanente.
Remueve el soporte.

Not Y000 this time haha

Easy Repair - 19/03/18

can same length screws mixed up?

Brook布魯克 - 21/11/19

It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.

Arthur Shi - 21/11/19

using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help

Mark Ordaz - 25/04/20

I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.

William Mitchell - 04/05/20

Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.

Kristina Graham - 12/09/20

Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.

Kristina Graham - 12/09/20

Takes a little pressure with the Philips head

John Toth - 13/10/20

Upon this step, I noticed I had no bracket or screws. I had my screen replaced previously and I’m disappointed to find out the repairperson made no effort to replace these parts. I’ll start trusting myself more to do my own repairs.

O D -

took me awhile to figure out I needed to use PHOO bit for the 2 -1.3 screws

Karen Flowers -

It is important to keep careful track of the screws' position. Have a tidy workplace -- a few times when I tried to re-attach the very tiny screws with the tweezer, they slipped and flew away and I almost lost them.

Matti Haveri -

can you strip the screws / how can you tell if its strip or not

antonio -

Paso 16

Utiliza la punta de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería de su cuenca en la placa lógica.
Dobla el cable de conector de batería ligeramente fuera de la placa lógica para prevenir que haga contacto accidentalmente con la cuenca y proporcione potencia al teléfono durante tu reparación.

Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.

Gareth - 23/08/20

I can confirm this as I learned my lesson by unknowingly prying the mosfet off. The phone will not charge now and is useless. I really wish they would add a note about this on Step 12 as a warning.

Jeff -

So this is it. You don’t have to go any further removing the screen. You can replace the battery right from this point.

John M - 02/12/20

I wish I saw this comment 2 hours ago

Kenneth Moore - 12/05/21

If I have to repeat this, I'd also consider removing replacing the battery at this point. The loose display must be then carefully fixed so the connectors don't break. And then it is not possible to re-attach the waterproof seal.

The waterproof seal was included in the kit, but there were no instructions for it so I now skipped that. I later found YouTube video which seems to describe it (starting at 7:40):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcgGRhaX...

Matti Haveri -

This is where I broke my phone, a phone that was working quite well, paid for in full. Just because I had a cracked screen. Be super careful when connecting the cables. I was in a hurry and not paying attention, used too much force when re-connecting and broke those teeny little pins that could not be repaired. A tech tried for an hour to no avail. cautionary tale. Good luck

Karen Flowers -

The display ribbon is a certain length and allows for some give, but behind it is hidden the Home button/TouchID ribbon, which sits against what amounts to a razor blade. This ribbon is much more taut than the display one, and therefore you have far less freedom of movement than you think you do. This is absolutely an intentional trap to discourage replacing your own battery. Quite frankly, it’s despicable.

Anyway, so beware of that, because although I was very careful and did not even swing the screen very far (not more than 90°), the Home button ribbon tore and now needs to be serviced. Home button is disabled now.

Apple should be ashamed of themselves for this. Please do look at the legislation effort that people are doing to try to get this kind of sabotage illegal, as well as all sorts of other gimmicks they pull. For a company that makes phenomenal products, they’re controlling like an abusive spouse.

Dan Knight

daniel -

That happened to me and I could not figure out how it got broken. It's the home button and fingerprint reader.

But I'm not bothering to get it fixed and I'm not replacing the entire screen. I went into system prefs/accessibility and activated the on-screen home button. Oh, well.

robin -

I cannot get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. Any tips/tricks? New and old battery connections appear similar. It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery.

Robert Ast -

Some reports here seem to indicate that the battery must be the very last connector to re-connect because otherwise there might be malfunction in some display components?

It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery. But the most difficult part for me was to get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. I tried many times to carefully position and press it down with my fingertip or the flat end of the spudger but it did not hold its position. Maybe I pressed too weak because I was afraid breaking the connector and the mosfet above (?) it. But finally to my surprise it connected (at that point I temporarily booted the iPhone with the loose display to verify that the battery was connected). Whew, it succeeded!

Matti Haveri -

The connectors have very little "click" to them when they do seat properly, and are covered with soft foam. Very challenging to attach them by feel, and having the screen propped up, blocks light from exactly where you need it.

Steve Trotman -

Paso 17

Utiliza el punto de un spudger para levantar el conector inferior de pantalla del su cuenca.
Para volver a sujetar conectores a presión como este, presiona sobre un lado hasta que haga clic, luego repite en el otro lado. No presiones en el medio. Si el conector está ligeramente desalineado, el conector puede doblarse y causar daño permanente.

I broke the lower display connector. Is it possible to replace that part separately or do I need to buy a full screen replacement?

Ross Mckellar -

Paso 18

Utiliza la punta de un spudger para desconectar el segundo cable inferior de pantalla.

Paso 19

Remueve los tres tornillos Phillips de 1,3 mm que sujetan el soporte sobre el conector de ensamblaje del sensor del panel frontal.
Remueve el soporte.

If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.

Thomas Tritt - 30/03/19

This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?

Jared Hensley - 01/12/19

ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.

Jared Hensley - 01/12/19

My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.

Ray Rushing - 28/09/20

Mine too? Any help?

George Waller - 29/05/21

These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)

Niklas Brammer - 19/01/21

Paso 20

Utiliza la punta de un spudger para desconectar el conector de ensamblaje del sensor de panel frontal.

Do you have a link for the flex cord shown in the pictures so I can purchase it? Having a hard time locating that exact assembly

Regal Carveiro -

Paso 21

Remueve el ensamblaje de pantalla.
Cuando vuelvas a ensamblar, haz pausa aquí si deseas reemplazar el adhesivo alrededor de los bordes de la pantalla.

Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.

After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.

At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .

Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.

Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.

I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.

DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!

John - 20/05/20

Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!

From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.

Arthur Shi - 20/05/20

I agree with John, skip 18 through 27. These are to make it easier to remove the battery adhesive. I replaced the batteries on two IPhone 8s. The first one I did all that stuff and the adhesive still broken and I had to carefully pry the battery out anyway. When I reassembled the phone the Home button no longer worked. Looking it up, this is apparently fairly common due to all the fragile wires involved in these steps. The second I skipped these steps and when I reassembled it everything worked fine. Not one of the eight (both phones) adhesive strips came out properly. I fully drained the batteries before doing the repairs. By the way, I use the virtual home button on the one phone, it’s a little annoying, but the phone is still usable if you’re not ready to shell out for a new phone.

Gary Berman - 06/04/21

I also skipped removing the Taptic Engine. I could only half-way pull the lower battery tapes and completely the upper tapes after carefully prying them loose with the tweezer. I then used a hair-dryer for a minute to warm the battery and the other side of the phone (I used my other hand to make sure I did not apply too much heat. Make sure you do not blow the tiny loose screws away with the hair dryer!) and then slowly lifted the upper battery somewhat with the Opening pics tool, then re-heated the lower remaining tapes and quite easily lifted the battery out.

I had bought two-sided tape to reconnect the battery but it had the tapes pre-installed (I wonder if it is necessary to tape the battery at all?).

Matti Haveri -

I also skipped these steps. I won’t say it was entirely successful - two of the four adhesive strips broke and could not be grabbed with tweezers. But I had gotten most of the adhesive out already and the battery was quite loose, so I used a warmer under the phone, then gently slid a flat plastic blade under one end of the battery and slowly worked it up the phone. (Dental floss would have been safer-don’t do what I did, kids!)

Matt D - 30/05/21

Likely can skip step 18-28 and all the risks. Battery tape is relatively removable by the following method

- use a tweezer to pull up a corner of each tape. Then use fingers to peel back all the black tab on top of battery

- use 2 hands. Index and thumb on both. Pull about 1/4” with one hand, hold the tension and pull 1/4” with the other hand. Alternate, go slow. Pull out all 4 tape completely. I think the pause after each 1/4” while holding the stretched tape firmly prevents the tape from over stretching to become too thin and break.

- Don’t apply heat, I would guess that makes tape softer and break easier.

Have tried other methods and failed in the past. Pulling too fast (tape will snap) or use a tweezer to twist/roll (sharp edges will cut tape) Anyway, just use index/thumb on both hands and alternately pull slowly

I did do 2 iPhone 8 battery change this way. One removed all tape without breaking. Another broken all 4 tape after about 1/3 pulled so likely some factory assembly differeces.

Howard -

I second this, this method works well in most cases. Removing the haptics helps to keep the angle low and pulling the tape as straight as possible

Hein Blöd -

Howards method for removing the adhesive works like a charm. The only addition I made was to slightly warm the back of the iphone on a rice pack (used for sore neck muscles—haha). Going back and forth between hands is really crucial. While on hand gives a gentle pull, the other holds the phone from moving. Slow back and forth. Thanks.

Lynn Thomas -

Struggling with the glued down display, then properly cleaning all the remains of the old seal, then positioning the new seal is 95% of this job. I purchased my phone refurbished and it clearly had already been serviced once, there were remnants of an old seal below the current seal due to improper cleaning and prep that made getting the phone open harder than it needed to be.

Steve Trotman -

Paso 22

Remueve los tres tornillos que sujetan el soporte al lado del motor táptico:
Un tornillo Y000 de 1.3 mm
Un tornillo Phillips de 2.7 mm
Un tornillo Phillips de 2.9 mm

My phone had Phillips screws in all three places, so I did not need the Y000 screwdriver bit.

Daryl Maunder - 25/01/20

I don’t see the point in steps 18-27 if we’re only changing the battery. I pulled out the sticky tape with taptic and all this other jazz still intact. Am I missing something? Reconnecting that taptic connection cost me 5 years off my life, needlessly.

William Mitchell - 11/05/20

Hey William!

We instruct people to remove the Taptic Engine in order to minimize the chance that the battery adhesive will tear when you try to pull it out. The steep angle you have to pull the adhesive with the Taptic Engine installed dramatically increases the chance that the adhesive will break under the battery.

Arthur Shi - 12/05/20

since the sticky tape will usually tear anyway and it is no big deal, I agree stop at this point and take the battery out. Too many things can go wrong removing more screws and connecting/disconnecting all the connectors. Go to video instructions at this point. Wish I did.

Bob McCall - 20/11/20

My tape tore away and now my home button does not work, which from what I see is to do with the tapic engine. It seems to be more dangerous to do that than to use heat and pry the battery out (which I had to do anyway). You should at least put in an warning/option for users.

Gary Berman - 17/03/21

Hi Gary,

The Home button connector is not related to the Taptic Engine and should not be affected by anything close to the battery adhesive. I would suggest carefully disconnecting and reconnecting the screen connectors, and make sure that there is no debris on the contacts. Be sure to disconnect the battery before you do this, or you will risk damaging the screen.

Arthur Shi - 18/03/21

Glad I stopped and watched the video at this point and skipped this step. Totally unnecessary, I used the iopener and heated the back of the phone before removing the battery with a pick and “ifixit card” came out easily. Not my first battery replacement.

Rick Collins -

Kompletter bullshit!! Im Video wird es anders gezeigt und die Schritte 18-27 werden komplett ausgelassen. Ist auch viel besser so, da so das Risiko, dass man die Taptic Engine schrottet, wie es mir jetzt beim ausbauen passiert ist, einfach nicht vorhanden ist. Ich kann auch nicht nachvollziehen, warum man in einer schriftlichen Anleitung zum Akku Wechsel komplett andere Schritte schildert als im Video. An der Stelle hat iFixit deutlich versagt. Ein Haufen Splasher…

Maximilian Ament -

Hallo Maximilian, du hast Recht, im Video wird die kürzere Methode gezeigt. Der Ausbau des Akkus ist für viele Menschen jedoch sehr schwer, wenn die Taptic Engine noch verbaut ist. Deshalb empfiehlt die Anleitung den Ausbau der Taptic Engine.

Fabian Neidhardt -

I can’t get the 2.7mm screw to tighten down the bracket.. not sure what i did wrong? the 2.9 will tighten in either place but the 2.7mm wont tighten anywhere.

cb brooks -

Kann es sein das dieser Schritt falsch ist? Ich habe einen Y000 Schraubendreher aus dem Iphone 7 Set. Der passt aber nicht bei der roten Schraube.

Sebastian Dechent -

The new part I received had two Phillips screws, so when you're doing the reverse, you may need to remove the screws from the new part before putting the old screws in, everything fit together otherwise

Ronald Mitchev -

I really hope you guys not to skip these steps. it is really hard to pull out string with taptic engine. 4 of 3 strings were cutted when I treid to detach batteries with taptic engine. So, I really recommend you to get rid of taptic engine before you start this step. But if you skipped and strings are cutted, there is a way. Use hair dryer 90 secs as maximum hot behind the battries and detach the batteries. It worked to me.

Min Su Kang -

The Y000 screw has an extremely shallow head and the screwdriver provided in the kit I used couldn't grip it at all. I skipped the entire taptic removal and was able to remove the adhesive with it in place by warming the phone then wrapping the end of the adhesive strips around a small screwdriver and gently rolling them out and away.

Steve Trotman -

Paso 23

Remueve el soporte.

Paso 24

Desliza la púa de apertura cuidadosamente entre el cable flexible de antena y la parte superior del altavoz.
Esta porción del cable flexible está ligeramente adherido en su lugar. Si es necesario, aplica un poco de calor de l iOpener o secador de pelo para ablandar el adhesivo. Esto hará que sea más fácil separar el cable flexible de forma segura.

Paso 25

Use la punta de un spudger para hacer palanca y desconectar el cable flexible de la antena de la placa lógica.

Paso 26

Desliza una púa de apertura por debajo del cable flexible de antena para mantener el zócalo hacía abajo.
Usa la punta de tu spudger para hacer palanca y desconectar el cable flexible de la antena de su zócalo, utilizando la púa de apertura para mantener el zócalo hacia abajo.
Volver a conectar este cable puede ser una tarea difícil. Hazla más fácil utilizando tus pinzas para mantener el cable flexible así el conector se alinea con su zócalo. Luego, presiona con cuidado en el conector con la parte plana de tu spudger hasta que encaje en su lugar.

Don’t worry if the socket lifts up a bit as you get it out. You’ll need to lift it up later (Step 25) so don’t push it back into place yet.

Daryl Maunder - 25/01/20

Every instruction online (including your YouTube video) leaves the Taptic Engine in place. This added step did not help with battery replacement, and led to an hour of frustration trying to get the connector back in place.

jgrsf - 01/08/20

I noticed the same thing and wondered if it was necessary. Thanks

Laura Bernal - 16/01/21

Yeah, I broke the connector off of my taptic engine trying to get it to reconnect to the lighting connector plate….freaking nightmare with that and the co-axe wifi connector……..I now have a working phone without haptics

dave -

I agree jgrsf

Bob McCall - 20/11/20

I was glad I had the Taptic Engine removed when I failed to remove the battery adhesives. It leaves more room to work around the battery.

Alexandre Deloffre - 30/03/21

I agree. And when reassembling the wifi antenna, I connected the two plugs first, which worked fine, and only after that stuck the antenna back to its sticky place.

dl7utx - 19/06/22

I was following this for replacing the loud speaker. I found that during reconnecting the antenna flex, I slightly rocked the taptic connector and it came lose. I was frustrated because my pre-close up test had everything working, then I shut it down, made sure everything was connected and put it all together (including a bang-on job on the display adhesive!!) and wham - no taptic responses.

Just finishing reseating it, fought with the antenna flex, then ensured the taptic connector was seated properly underneath. All good now.

Bill Shannon -

i cant get the small screw to tighten to hold the bracket in place. it just spins. the 2.7mm screw that is supposed to go into the lower left bottom. the 2.9mm screw that goes in lower right bottom will also snug down on lower left. I somehow messed up the hole I guess. can i use an extra 2.9mm instead of 2.7 mm ? if i can find one ? thank you

cb brooks -

Paso 27

Remueve la antena de diversidad inalámbrica.

Paso 28

Remueve los dos tornillos que sujetan el motor táptico:
Un tornillo Phillips de 2.1mm
Un tornillo separador de 2.1 mm
Los tornillos separadores son mejor removidos usando un destornillador de tornillos separadores o punta.
Si no hay otro remedio, un pequeño destornillador de cabeza plana hará el trabajo—pero ten precaución extra para asegurarte de que no se resbale y dañe los componentes que lo rodean.

Tiene que ser una broma que en el kit no te venga el destornillador plano para abrir el tornillo separador. Me habeis dejado a mitad

Charlie - 20/11/19

Why is this screwdriver bit not included in the fix kit?

It’s more important to get this unusual piece than a common Phillips head.

Daryl Maunder - 25/01/20

When reinstalling the standoff that connects to the Taptic Engine, I found that the pointy tip of the spudger fits really well into the little hole at the top of the standoff, and helps with getting it into place and screwing it down if you don’t have a screwdriver bit for the standoff. Hope this is helpful!

Daniel Timothy Case - 11/02/20

Be sure to look through all the packaging if you bought the iFixit replacement battery - the Standoff Screwdriver bit was in the package with the battery and screen adhesive (the box labeled “Repair Part”) rather than in with the tools (the box labeled “Repair Tools”).

Owen Edwards - 13/09/20

Thanks! This really saved the day for me.

Javier Sanz -

I just used a sharp knife for the orange one

jackjaggermanjanson - 21/05/21

I broke (twice) the ribbon cable on the tapic engine while trying to reinstall the taptic engine. I ended up taking the loudspeaker out which gave my finger a bit more room to press down and connect the cable to the phone. It was a royal PIA.

johnoconna -

Such a nice kit, great instructions, and then not include the standoff bit…what a miss…

Martijn Smits -

I used a 2.5mm flat screwdriver for the standoff (orange) screw.

Habel -

During reassembly, I inserted the stand-off screw by holding it with the provided tweezers and pushing it into place with the pointed spudger. While still pushing down with the pointed spudger to keep it from falling over, I turned the stand-off screw using the tweezers until it was firmly seated enough to let go of the spuder without the screw falling over. Then I was able to switch over to my 2.4mm flathead screwdriver and tighten it down. Otherwise the screw was jumping all over the place, magnetically attracted to the other components.

Disappointing that the stand-off screw bit was not provided with the kit. I expect better from iFixit.

Matt Brown -

It appears that some aspects of the iPhone SE 2022 (3rd gen SE) began to appear in later versions of the 2020 model. I have an SE 2020 (A2275) that has a grounding clip anchored by the Phillips screw on LH side of the Taptic engine. This clip was not present in the original SE 2020 and thus, doesn’t appear in the images for this step. If you want to get a good look at the clip’s location and orientation follow these links to the corresponding steps in the iFixit guide for the 3rd gen model and Apple's own repair guide.

SE 2022 (3rd gen) Lighting Connector Replacement -- Step 27

Apple iPhone Repair Manual for SE 2022 (3rd gen) -- See bottom of page 49

Robert Miller -

I agree with the previous comments. What I suggest is to do not remove the taptic engine. It's very frustrating to put back the connector, you have a very little space. If you don't remove it, you still have the space to work with the battery.

Tamas Balogh -

Paso 29

Usa la punta de tu spudger para levantar el conector del cable de la antena y alejarlo del conector debajo de él.

Just a heads up, I found a small bit of adhesive tape between the antenna cable socket and the connector below.

Nic Giannandrea - 24/07/19

Yep, I did find it too. Thanks

Stefano Restuccia - 20/11/19

Hola,

Se me ha roto ese conector pequeño de la antena y no encuentro donde puedo comprar un repuesto. ¿Alguna idea?

Gracias

Eduardo Moral - 25/01/20

I also found adhesive between the antenna cable socket and the connector below. I was not able to separate the two (mediocre middle-aged vision and lack of leverage to create the separation), and therefore was not able to fully disconnect the haptic engine. Instead, I gently wriggled the haptic engine out and, leaving it connected, rotated it 180 degrees and out of the way toward the bottom right corner of the phone. I am hoping that I have not damaged the thin ribbon cable. On the up side, for the first time ever I was able to remove the adhesive strips from under the battery (they didn’t break).

John Weise - 21/07/20

I just want to follow up to say that I did not damage the thin ribbon cable connecting the Taptic Engine. I did forget to reconnect it, though. Once I got that straight, it worked fine.

John Weise - 06/08/20

I found that the Antenna cable socket is best to remain attached to the taptic engine cable has i find that it is very easy to brake.

I have in the past also broking the Taptic engine cable when trying to fit it to its sockets. the Taptic engine cable is very easy to brake so would advise that great care is taking when both fitting and removing.

Jake Hearle - 13/03/21

Yep, broke my cable…hoping i can order a replacement taptic engine,,,,phone works without it, but no vibrator or haptics

dave -

Paso 30

Usa la punta de tu spudger para levantar y desconectar el cable flexible del motor táptico.

I found that this cable was glued down with similar adhesive to the screen. It pulled away as I removed the taptic engine from the phone (next step).

Daryl Maunder - 25/01/20

My taptic engine had two screws on the lh side. still worked the same.

Chris Rainone - 01/11/20

Be really careful here in the reassembly. I managed to rip the cable here, and now best case I won’t have any haptic feedback. :(

Nick Cox -

I’m sorry to hear that! If you’d like to get that fixed sometime, we do sell a replacement part!

Arthur Shi -

On re-assembly, the taptic engine might not work. Before panicking, ensure that the taptic engine connector didn’t get dislodged when fighting to get the antenna flex reconnected.

Bill Shannon -

on my A1905 iphone 8 - This is not correct!

There is an extra leg coming off the taptic engine’s flex cable with a micro-coax antenna connector going underneath the speaker!

You can’t take the engine off yet!!

Jason Minahan -

I have the same issue and confirm the coax connector under the speaker …. can you buy this Taptic Engine anywhere? The one with the extra leg ?

James -

A hint for reassembly: carefully crease the ribbon cable upwards along the edge of the connector so the stiff ribbon doesn’t touch the engine, pushing the upper connector too far away from the engine to line up with the lower connector. Once the cable isn’t interfering, you don’t have to worry as much about breaking it or having it get in the way. It’s still tricky to get the connectors lined up. I had luck by using one set of tweezers to hold and stabilize the short sides of the upper connector (silver rectangle). I used another set of tweezers (spudger would also work) in my other hand to finesse the connector alignment and push the connectors together. Look carefully at the first photo in this step: the connector is almost exactly centered below the taptic engine screw.

jeffreyknicholson - 28/11/21

my phone is doing a squeeking sound everytime i press the home button and sometimes if i press long on the screen.

something is off with the taptic engine i think.

any idea how to fix it?

Rita H -

Any suggestion on why the 2.7 mm screw no longer holds down the bracket. 2.9 mm screw works in either hole .but the 2.7 mm no longer secures the bracket, can I swap it out with another 2.9 mm screw?. And where do I find one. Will it work if it’s missing that screw? Space. I have an old iPhone SE maybe I can find 2.9 screw in that . Thanks

cb brooks -

Re-assembling the Taptic Engine connector is difficult. After struggling unsuccessfully for 45 minutes I ended up bending up the metal tab on the right side of the phone with tweezers, then with the Taptic Engine tipped on end (not positioned in phone) I could get the cables connected. With the tab on the phone bent upward I was able to slide the mounting tab on the left side of the Taptic Engine under the tab on the left side of the phone case and then bend it back down. This needs to be done carefully to avoid damaging the cable on the Taptic Engine.

Mark Dige -

Be careful -- there are two cable connectors stacked on top of each other here, and you want to attach the taptic engine to the bottom one. When reattaching the taptic engine connector, make sure that the antenna connector is pulled back -- it is designed to sit right above the connector for the taptic engine, and just by memory it rests back in the same spot. Without reviewing the previous step in reverse, it would be easy to attempt to connect to the top socket, potentially causing damage.

brendonart -

There’s two cables here that are almost impossible to separate. I put some effort on the haptic cable and it immediately sheared off. I have no idea how you’re supposed to properly separate them

Nicholas Head -

The reassembly is very difficult. The connector needs to be closer to the taptic engine than what the stiff ribbon allows. I had to bend the ribbon a bit with tweezers to narrow the gap between the connector and the taptic engine so that the connector would meet with the slot... after I spent half an hour trying to coax it.

Scott Green -

Tamas Balogh - 22/03/23

Be careful the taptic engine cable is less then paper thin and tears with less resistance then a peice of paper, use extreme caution!!!!!
i ripped mine and after taking it out and testing the strength of the cable it took less force to tare then tearing a sheet of paper.

there is plenty of room for this cable to be three times as thick with no interference, this is just anti repair design.

penguin2fish4rain - 11/04/23

Paso 31

Remueve el motor táptico

Where there is the 2,1mm philips srew holding the taptic engine (left), there is a tiny piece of metal under the srewhead. Note its orientation, take it out and dont't lose it taking out the taptic engine, then reinstall it when reassembling. When reassembling, the said fixing hole of the taptic engine is not on top, but has to be pushed under a little metal piece, it won't even fit on top. Then reinstall the tiny metal piece and put the screw in.

dl7utx -

I damaged the graphite film underneath the battery while removing stubborn adhesive. Can I buy replacement graphite film? Should I remove it altogether since some sections ripped? What purpose does this serve? Thank you for any information.

Anne Marie Hammock -

Hi Anne,

The graphite film helps dissipate heat during wireless charging and to transfer heat out of the battery. It doesn't need to be in one complete piece in order to work—if the film can lay flat, I'd leave it in place.

Arthur Shi -

Paso 32

Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips que sujetan la ventila barométrica a la caja trasera:
Un tornillo Phillips de 2 mm
Un tornillo Phillips de 1.8 mm

Paso 33

Suavemente empuja la ventila barométrica en la dirección de la batería para separar el adhesivo que sujeta la ventila al borde inferior del iPhone.

Paso 34

Remueve la ventila barométrica.

Paso 35

Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para hacer palanca y desconectar el conector de cable de cámara de su zócalo.

When replacing, used iFixit tweezers to gently hold/bend the cable, and used my finger to press the connector back in place. This was the best way I could get the connector lined up and seated properly.

Habel -

Paso 36

Remueve los dos tornillos que sujetan el soporte de la cámara trasera:
Un tornillo separador Phillips de 3.0 mm
Un tornillo Phillips de 3.1 mm
Los tornillos de separación se quitan mejor con un destornillador o broca de separación.
Si no hay otro remedio, un pequeño destornillador de cabeza plana hará el trabajo—pero ten precaución extra para asegurarte de que no se resbale y dañe los componentes que lo rodean.

The screw and standoff are the other way round in this step. The photo shows the small screw removed and the standoff securing the logicboard is circled incorrectly. Also you may find that the standoff screw is not magnetic, making it a little tricky to replace!

Michael Millington - 21/10/18

Hi Michael,

You are correct; thanks for catching that! The original image was correct, and for some reason the image was updated, and no longer correct. I have reverted it back to the original image.

Arthur Shi - 22/10/18

wrong Screws in Picture

mmiller - 05/03/20

Be careful when reassembling. These screws came demagnetized for me in the process, and they’re really hard to put in if that happens.

Nick Cox -

These screws are not magnetized! If you are trying to put them back, use some tweezers to align them, and while still using the tweezers, grab your standoff driver and push down, then you can screw it in with ease.

Lua Tech -

Thanks for the tip.

Habel -

I used a 1.5mm flat screwdriver to do the one with the standoff bit.

Habel - 11/12/22

Paso 37

Remueve la soporte de la cámara trasera.

Paso 38

Usa la punta de un spudger para hacer palanca y desconectar el conector flash de su zócalo.

The small connector is not actually for the flash, the flash and mic module are just below that and connect to the same cable as the power button.

Bonrad C - 12/02/20

Paso 39

Remueve los dos tornillos que sujetan el soporte de cable superior:
Un tornillo Phillips de 2.9 mm
Un tornillo Phillips de 1.3 mm

Logically - one wouldn’t need to take out all these things to take out something at the bottom of the phone - but in order to get good access to it, you must remove the logic board - which is long and all the way up at the top connected to the antenna. Follow the steps - it works.

Chris Rainone - 01/11/20

Paso 40

Remueve el soporte del cable superior.

Paso 41

Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para hacer palanca y extraer el conector de cable de su zócalo.

Paso 42

Remueve los tres tornillos de Phillips de 1.3 mm que sujetan el componente de antena superior izquierda

1,2mm ! not 1,3mm ! thx

Boni Zei - 08/04/20

Paso 43

Remueve el tornillo de 1.4 mm que sujeta el componente de la antena al borde superior de la caja.

Be careful not to strip this screw...I did and I'm going to try to proceed without taking off the antenna component.

Jacob Steineke -

Update: You can still go on with the replacement if you do not take off the antenna component

Jacob Steineke -

Paso 44

Remueve el componente de antena.

Paso 45

Remueve los dos tornillos que sujetan el clip de toma a tierra en el borde superior izquierdo de la placa lógica:
Un tornillo Phillips de 1.5 mm
Un tornillo Phillips de 2.6 mm

Paso 46

Remueve el clip de toma a tierra.

what happen if don't put this part?

albert saens - 11/03/19

Hi Albert,

It’s hard to tell. Most phone functions will probably work, but you may start getting quirky problems.

Arthur Shi - 11/03/19

If it comes out it must go back in *no spare parts *

Josh Brito - 21/12/19

Paso 47

Remueve los tres tornillos que sujetan la placa madre:
Un tornillo Phillips de 1.8 mm
Un tornillo separador de 2.5 mm
Un tornillo separador de 2.2 mm

The One 1.8 mm Phillips screw was buried under some gasket material. It took some twezzer work to get that material off.

I.T. Service Desk - 19/02/20

this is probably the most difficult part because the ‘top 2.5 mm on my version was under a piece of ribbon cable that had to be pulled back. Also notice - this picture is inverted. So the locations are reversed (obviously for clarity)

Chris Rainone - 01/11/20

The 1.8mm was indeed buried.

fotoband - 19/12/20

Buried 1.8mm Phillips easily located under the gasket material by zooming in on the photo to see position relative to connectors. Material is fibrous, so be patient.

Ben Sandness -

I’ve been searching on internet about the black stickers on those parts in the phone and I found nothing about them, what are they? Electrical Tapes? Does it make any differences if we remove them? If yes is, there anything else we can use to replace them? We’re they are for any specific purposes? Thanks in advance if anyone can help me understand

EverWill - 21/01/22

Used a 2.5 mm flat screwdriver for both of the standoff screws. There was definitely black adhesive covering the 1.8mm Phillips. As Ben Sandness said, take your time, keep working at it.

Habel -

Paso 48

Usa una pinza para doblar cuidadosamente el soporte de toma a tierra de la placa lógica fuera del camino.

Paso 49

Una la punta de un spudger para mover el tapón de eyección de la tarjeta SIM fuera del camino.

Paso 50

Usa la punta de un spudger para hacer palanca y desconectar el cable del conector Lightning de la placa lógica.

Replacement tip - be sure to prepare a U-shaped bend into your new flex cable at this connection prior to installing the adhesive-backed flex cable.

I did not think of this and as a result when I get to reconnecting this part to the logic board, the flex cable had a lot of spring in it and wanted to rebound and lay flat (as it was shipped.) This step really should emphasize how important it is to get that bend formed into your new flex cable.

fotoband - 21/12/20

On reassembly seems to be impossible to make this connection. Male and female don’t seem precisely lined up, even though I lined up the screw holes with this component and followed all the instructions carefully. And if not precisely lined up, then it’s impossible to get this long connector to stick. Seriously disappointing.

Tom Schaeffer -

Die schlimmste Connection an allen Iphones.

Konnte beim Iphone 8 gerade so, den neuen Connector anschliessen. Nach 6 versuchen und die ganze Klebeverbindung lösen. Das Flexkabel will zurückspringen und der neue Connector muss so exakt montiert/geklebt werden. Habt hier viel geduld!

Pascal Bitterli -

Paso 51

Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar y desconectar el conector de la bobina de carga inalámbrica.

Paso 52

Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar cuidadosamente el extremo del conector de batería de la placa lógica.
Ten cuidado de no tirar contra ningún cable. Si sientes resistencia, verifica que todos los cables, conectores y componentes estén fuera de la placa.

Paso 53

Tomándola de sus bordes, levanta la placa lógica cerca del conector de batería y remuévela.
Ten cuidado de no enganchar ningún cable en la placa lógica.

During re-assembly, pay close attention to position the logic board under all the cables include the flash cable. The cables can get flattened out once the components are released and easily slip under instead of over where they need to be.

Irina - 14/03/21

Paso 54

Remueve los dos tornillos que sujetan el altavoz a la caja trasera.
Un tornillo Phillips de 1.5 mm
Un tornillo Phillips de 2.1 mm

I beleive at this step you should illustrate the importance of watching that antenna cable next to the speaker. It can easily ‘pop’ off of its co-ax connector when removing the speaker. Mine did and i was wondering where the extra part came from. And reconnecting it IS A NIGHTMARE!!! If you get it alligned correctly I found a metal bit with the same diameter of the co-ax socket needs to be used to press the connector into place, but it never ‘clicks’ or pops so you have to assume its connected when it dosent fall back off

dave -

I had a similar issue as Dave. What worked for me was attaching it to the component before installing the whole charging port into the phone’s frame.

Jenny Lawson -

Paso 55

Remueve el altavoz.

Will an iPhone 8 loudspeaker work in an iPhone SE 2020?

Larry Jorgenson -

Paso 56

Remueve los tres tornillos que sujetan el cable del conector Lightning en su lugar:
Un tornillo Phillips de 1.3 mm
Dos tornillos Phillips de 2.2 mm

Paso 57

Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips de 1.4 mm que sujetan el puerto Lightning al borde inferior del teléfono.

Paso 58

Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar cuidadosamente el micrófono del lado de la placa lógica del adhesivo que lo sujeta en el lugar.
No intentes de remover completamente el micrófono; solo separa el adhesivo como se muestra.

Be patient and use a heat source I used a hot/cold ice pack. When trying to separate, I used the pointed end of a spudger, rolling it between my fingers as I started in the corner as shown in the pictures. With my left thumb, i held the black plastic bracket in place (the chamber where the speaker goes out of the bottom).

Habel -

Paso 59

Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar cuidadosamente el micrófono de lado de la batería del adhesivo que lo sujeta en su lugar.
No intentes de remover completamente el micrófono; solo separa el adhesivo como se muestra.

Paso 60

Aplica el iOpener caliente en la parte inferior del teléfono, inclinándolo como se muestra. Esto ayudará a ablandar el adhesivo del cable flexible.

Paso 61

Desliza una púa de apertura por debajo de la porción superior del cable flexible de ensamblaje del conector Lightning y comienza a separar el cable de la caja trasera.
Desliza suavemente la púa hacia el borde externo del iPhone (lejos de la batería).
Parte de la bobina de carga inalámbrica se encuentra por debajo de la porción del cable flexible del conector Lightning. Si tratas de hacer palanca de forma agresiva, podrías dañar la bobina.
Si es necesario, usa tu secador de pelo o el iOpener repetidamente para volver a calentar el área detrás del cable flexible del ensamblaje del conector Lightning para que sea más fácil de separar.

Paso 62

Continúa separando la porción superior del cable flexible del conector Lightning, teniendo cuidado de no dañar ningún otro componente.
Mantén el conector de batería suavemente doblado a un costado para no dañarlo.
Ten mucho cuidado de no dañar la batería misma. Una batería perforada puede perder sustancias químicas peligrosos y/o prenderse fuego.
Para de deslizar la púa una vez que pase el borde inferior de la batería.

Paso 63

Comenzando en la esquina del teléfono, desliza la púa por debajo del cable hacia el conector Lightning.
Para de deslizar la púa cuando alcanza el conector Lightning.

Paso 64

Cuidadosamente extrae el conector Lightning de su orificio en la caja trasera.

Paso 65

Desliza la púa de apertura por debajo del conector Lightning para seguir separando el ensamblaje de la caja trasera.
Continúa deslizando la púa hasta que el ensamblaje del conector Lightning no esté adherido más a la parte inferior de la caja trasera.

Paso 66

Desliza una púa de apertura entre el borde izquierdo de la caja y la sección restante adherida del ensamblaje de Lightning.

Paso 67

Remueve el ensamblaje del conector Lightning.
Antes de instalar o reemplazar el ensamblaje del conector Lightning:
Usa una herramienta plástica para sacar cualquier trocito de residuo de adhesivo de la caja trasera. Puedes utilizar alcohol isopropílico de concentración alta para ayudarte a limpiar la superficie.
Antes de remover la plancha de adhesivo, asegúrate de que el ensamblaje de conector Lightning esté correctamente posicionado alineando el orificio en el cable flexible con el poste de tornillo. Si el cable no está alineado bien, no podrás volver a conectarlo a la placa lógica.

Paso 68

Una junta de goma en la parte inferior del conector Lightning protege tu iPhone de la entrada de líquidos y polvo. Si estás instalando un ensamblaje nuevo de conector Lightning, podrías necesitar remover con cuidado y transferir la junta a la parte nueva.
El parche adhesivo pequeño en la parte inferior de cada micrófono también protege tu teléfono de la entrada de líquidos y y polvo. Para mejores resultados, reemplaza los dos parches adhesivos antes de instalar el ensamblaje del conector Lightning.
Verifica si la parte nueva viene con un cable adaptador de antena. Si no es así, usa la punta de tu spudger para levantar y transferir el cable de tu ensamblaje viejo de Lightning al nuevo.

If you need to replace the adhesive patches shouldn’t they be recommended and sold/included?

fotoband - 20/12/20

Hi fotoband,

Our replacement part should have the adhesive pre-attached and ready for use.

Arthur Shi - 21/12/20

Die Anleitung ist klasse, aber “benutze die Spudgerspitze, um das Kabel von der alten Lightning Connector Einheit hochzubebeln und auf die neue zu übertragen” ist mit Abstand der schwierigste Teil der ganzen Angelegenheit. Die ganzen Teile und das Werkzeug alles super, aber dann nehmt 5€ mehr und macht an die Lightning Connector Einheit direkt den Konverter ran. das ist so winzig und fummelig, dass ich an dieser Stelle wahrscheinlich die neue Connector Einheit oder zumindest den Antennenkonverter zerstört habe. Schade

Billy Bonez - 23/12/20

I don’t understand how to change the antenna converter cable. I can pry it off of the old part just fine but it doesn’t click back to the new part? Do you actually need to solder it together?

coffings - 16/01/21

The cable has a coaxial connector and can be slightly tricky to click back. Make sure to align it properly and press it down firmly with your fingers.

Arthur Shi - 18/01/21

Transferring the antenna connector was by far the trickiest bit of the entire repair for me. Getting it aligned and click back into place took ages, all the time worried I’d damage the fragile coax connector.

DarrenG - 12/03/21

Ahhh… the antenna convertor cable is a NIGHTMARE to re-connect. You need to get it alligned correctly with a pair of tweezers, then I found a metal bit/rod of the same diameter as the co-ax socket and needs to be used to press the connector into place with a stright downward motion, but it never ‘clicks’ or ‘pops’ into it’s proper seating, so you have to assume its connected when it dosent fall back off of the lightning connector plate. THEN, reconnecting the taptic engine right over top of its connector runs the chance of popping the antenna connector back off again. Its a frustrating battle that you need to be fresh for…not at 1AM

dave -

The tip with the tweezers really helped me out! Thanks for sharing that!
I was not able to stick the converter cable on the fresh lightning unit, while it stuck back on the original one without issues.
Blunt metal tweezers did the trick. @ifixit: Please make that an extra step of the guide!

Jan-Philipp Apel - 25/02/23

Well, I thought this was going pretty well, but I’ve just destroyed my new part and the antenna cable trying to mate them together. Not sure this repair is “moderate” enough for me.

Sylvain Poitras -

Is this piece (the aforementioned tricky converter cable) the cellular antenna? I’m trying to identify which component actually receives the cellular signals. If it is removed and/or left off, Will this completely disable the cellular connection?

Alberta I Stein -

This piece looks to convert a coaxial antenna socket into a press connector. If this is removed, whatever antenna this is connected to won’t work.

Arthur Shi -

This part sucks. I got it on once with a nice click, but it flew off when gently touched by another piece. After that, it seemed to not go on again, no more reassuring click. I tried for hours to line it up. So I got it to where it seemed to connect close enough and hot glued it. Terrible, but it works.

Skyler Barto -

My microphone isn’t working when I talk through earpiece or more it’s super muffled, but I sound clear as day when on speakerphone, is there something I can do to fix that? Did I put the lightning connector wrong?

Eliezar Gonzalez -

I've been attempting for the last few hours to replace this part. Honestly I cannot describe how mad I am at iFixit for not selling the lightning connector with the antenna converter already attached. It's impossible to attach. What a rip off.

valfells -

Conclusión

Compara tu parte nueva de reemplazo con la parte original— quizá tengas que transferir componentes restantes o remover adhesivos de la parte trasera de la parte de nueva antes de instalar.

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue los pasos mencionados arriba en orden inverso.

Lleva tus residuos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje electrónico.

¿La reparación no salió como planeabas? Fíjate en nuestra comunidad de Respuestas para ayuda de resolución de problemas.

Autor

Arthur Shi

Miembro Desde 03/01/18

219093 Reputación

25 comentarios

I love how you mention the “antenna converter cable” twice but never show what the &&^& that part even looks like??

I only hate Humans. - 20/09/19

Sorry about that! It’s actually shown in the 3rd image in the last step. I cropped the photo so that it’s zoomed in more to show it.

Arthur Shi - 23/09/19

I would HIGHLY recommend not attempting this fix. I have done a variety of repairs on iPhones (screens, batteries, etc.) and decided to try this to address a broken microphone. I could make regular phone calls but couldn’t use speakerphone or FaceTime. After replacing the lightening charger using the instructions and the iFixit parts, I still can’t use the speakerphone or FaceTime function. To make matters worse, my phone won’t charge through the lightening connector, won’t wirelessly charge, and people can’t hear me even when I make a regular phone call anymore. In other words, I started with one fairly minor problem and, due to this repair, have a whole bunch of new (much more significant) issues. Don’t make the same mistake I did.

Aaron Nelson - 10/11/19

Don’t know about the charging issues, but the reason replacing the microphone didn’t help is because you replaced the wrong microphone.

iPhone 8 has 3 mics.

- One for regular phone calls - which is the one you replaced

- One for the front-facing camera - which is used for the speakerphone and FaceTime and is located near the earpiece

- One for the back-facing camera

Nick Shtangey -

Excelente guía..!!

Jorge Lonjedo - 23/11/19

It the port paired to the phone? like Touch ID, or can you just replace it without and issue?

Robinson Shaffer - 06/02/20

Hi Robinson,

The port is not paired to the phone.

Arthur Shi - 10/02/20

Phone doesn’t turn on. Is there any other tips??

carl mercado - 28/04/20

Hi Carl,

You can try some common troubleshooting tips. Hopefully that will resolve the issue. If not, please browse and post on our Answers forum.

Arthur Shi - 29/04/20

Excellent guide. Took just over 1 hour to complete, phone charges and earphones work again. This is my daughters phone so she is very happy.

David Dunsire - 02/05/20

Im having an issue where whenever i attach the lightning cord connector the screen wont turn on but when i detach it the screen will turn on, is there anyway to fix this?

Sara A - 23/06/20

Repair completed using this guide and the iFixit kit. Took me quite a bit longer than 2 hours (I spent almost an hour making sure ALL the old glue was off before fitting a new seal!) but with the help of the magnetic project board the job went perfectly and I can now charge my phone again. Speaking of the project board, I would consider this an absolute essential to complete this job. The phone has to be pretty much taken apart and you end up with a multitude of differing length/type screws which are easy to mix up….and it’s not that easy to tell a 1.2mm screw from a 1.3mm screw!

Lacy Kyle - 27/06/20

Well, that was a pain in the ass… But it works!:)

Trym Thorén - 18/08/20

Does anyone know where I can get the small “antenna converter cable”? Sadly, mine broke and it’s seems to be near impossible to just get the converter cable…I know that the wifi works without it, but I’d rather replace the broken thing…

malteweber - 19/10/20

Thank you for putting this together. The Youtube videos are so fast, you really need the pics and instructions. It was greatly appreciated!

Chris Rainone - 01/11/20

My charger port still does not work, even after a replacement. ••Sad••

Great Guide though!! Even remembered the teeeeenie tiny antenna. LOL!

Jonathan - 11/02/21

Well, this was by far the hardest repair I’ve ever done. (I’m pretty comfortable with these types of repairs and have done 4-5 screen repairs and home button replacements.) It took about 5 hours. (I had a few mishaps where something was reassembled under something else and I had to take it back apart to get it to seat correctly.) I managed to sever the taptic feedback engine ribbon cable and I couldn’t get the antenna back in, but my phone still seems to make and receive calls with decent signal, use WiFi, and use cellular data, so I’m not exactly sure what that does.

So, TL;DR, the phone dropped in water and wouldn’t charge. Now it does charge, but the haptic feedback on the home button doesn’t work, and I’m guessing it won’t have as strong a signal due to the antenna loss. But it was probably worth it for a ~$20 part instead of replacing the phone for ~$200.

Nick Cox - 11/07/21

I’ve done a number of iPhone batteries, screens, and even other lightning connectors. This repair is a big job, with almost all of the phone components being removed to replace the lightning connector board. This was also my first iFixit repair that was unsuccessful. At the end of about 5 hours of work and troubleshooting, I was left with no use from the lightning connector, no cellular signal, and a phone stuck in a reboot cycle. I am relatively confident in my work and reassembly and it was quite possibly a faulty part—but at the end of the day I was at a point where I can’t wait days and days for replacement parts to further troubleshoot.

Instructions on this were mostly clear, though there are gaps in the reassembly as there are no specific photos or written directions for the replacement screens and seals around the microphone/speakers/etc. You can see how the old parts were installed, so not a big issue.

Ben Sandness -

I agree, this is a BIG job, especially when doing it three times. I missed “You may need to transfer remaining components…“ in Step 66 and in the Conclusion so back tracked to transfer the tiny wifi flex to charging port transition cable from the old part. New part didn’t allow the phone to charge! Took it back apart and reassembled then it wouldn’t even power on. Disassembled it one more time , put the old part back in, and it worked like it did before - lightening cable won’t stay plugged in.

Ordered a replacement for the replacement part. Also had to order the transition cable (from Repairs Universe, by the way). This cable is very small and fragile and a PITB to connect.

So I’ll try this one more time once I get the parts and forget how difficult this was.

Could not - would not! - have done this without Arthur Shi’s guide. Thank you for the time you spent making it!

TJ Cope -

That “antenna converter cable“ is a nightmare to transfer over. The circular connector on it enlarges once taken out and now it is so loose that it is impossible to reattach it to the new lightning assembly! I Guess i will be leaving that one unattached. Does anyone know the exact function of that one? Frequency? Does it carry wifi or cellular signal? The iphone seem to work fine without it.

Jansen Yong -

Excellent guide. Thank you for your time putting this together.

M.bishop -

Gran tutorial , muchas gracias

pablo -

Thanks for that awsome Guide. After there were no spoken messages or face time calls possible due to a not working mic, the change of the connector part was done in approx. 2h. Now everything work quite well.

One which helps me a lot was to connect the connector to the main board before that was re assembled and the flex band was fully glued to the frame. So the position was given by assembling the mainboard and it works perfectly. In the first round the connector was slightly out of position, which ends in a not working mic and charging function, but after re-assembling it with the right position it works.

Tobias Hahn -

This took way longer than the 1-2 hours they stated, however this is only my 3rd phone repair and definitely the hardest repair I've done yet, but the guide was definitely complete, and if anyone is reading this, don't be discouraged by the difficult comments, it definitely wasn't as hard as it seems, just very long and very tedious. Side note, this is a great time to replace the battery also, since the taptic engine has to come out anyway.

Ronald Mitchev -

I got to the last step of re-attaching the antenna converter cable, and the co-ax connector on the new lightning connector piece got bent while trying to press it together. I take responsibility for my own handiwork – but why does the replacement piece not come with the antenna converter cable pre-attached? It's such a finicky and delicate piece that as others mentioned above, is quite difficult to connect properly. This would be a good change for the next iteration of this.

Jake Kuhn -