Reemplazo del ventilador del MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015

Escrito Por: Andrew Optimus Goldheart
  • Comentarios: 104
Reemplazo del ventilador del MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015

Dificultad

Moderado

Pasos

15

Tiempo Requerido

20 minutos - 1 hora

Introducción

Utiliza esta guía para reemplazar el ventilador.

No olvides seguir nuestra [guía|744|guía de aplicación de pasta térmica] antes de reinstalar tu disipador de calor.

  1. ovJZXaUhKXaROGSa

    • Quita los 10 tornillos que aseguran la parte inferior de la carcasa a la parte superior:

    • Dos tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 2.3 mm

    • Ocho tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 3.0 mm

    • A lo largo de esta reparación, realiza un seguimiento de cada tornillo y asegúrate de que vuelva exactamente de donde proviene para evitar dañar tu dispositivo.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos -

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing -

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward -

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch -

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch -

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard -

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash -

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham -

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie -

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers -

    Installation of replacement AirPort card was easier than I had expected thanks to this guide. Thank you.

    chaslaw -

    I use replaced SSD and it was super easy and working great. I can finally upgrade Mac OS with plenty of room to spare and no more low memory alerts. Well worth investment and didn’t have to buy new laptop

    Pete James -

    It's interesting that this tutorial is rated Moderate even though you need to remove the battery. The battery removal tutorial which is basically the same but with fewer steps is rated Difficult.

    Marv Ruona -

    when i pulled the screws out i arranged them in the same way they were in. the top 2 middle screws appeared to be shorter than the rest. in order to keep them in place i got a square of packing tape sticky side up, taped both sides down with 2 other pieces of tape. and then put the screws head down in the order i pulled them.

    Jason Wade -

    Excellent instructions although checking battery and speakers aligned before fixing batteries into place is essential. MacBook good as new!

    John Foreman -

    I find it helpful to spread a soft, slightly fuzzy cloth (like flannel) over my workspace before doing something with small parts. It keeps screws and things from rolling or bouncing away. A towel might be too plush, though, as a screw might get lost in it.

    Richard KeslerWest -

  2. LeHZGQqOmJ5HNBPs

    • Introduce tus dedos entre la parte superior y la parte inferior de la carcasa.

    • Tira suavemente de la carcasa inferior para retirarla.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont -

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll -

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman -

  3. 3QrmmYdOGiTrsDa3
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    • La carcasa inferior está conectada a la carcasa superior con dos clips de plástico cerca de su centro.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, empuja suavemente hacia abajo el centro de la carcasa inferior para volver a sujetar los dos clips de plástico.

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt -

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman -

    If you’re doing an iFixIt battery replacement, the replacement battery has two rubber nubs which are right where the clips are that receive these studs. Folks have been saying it’s hard to get the studs to clip back in after replacement, and I had the same issue. I trimmed the top of these rubber nubs, which are a bit bigger than those on the original battery, with some side cutters. That made the fit much better.

    Rob Gorbet -

  4. RjNdjyPoDnNTyyUB

    • Si es necesario, remueve la cubierta de plástico adherida a la placa de contacto de la batería.

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm -

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose -

    Dear Sir,

    as you seem to be very much experienced with battery replacements you might perhaps give me a hint why after having removed the battery pack successfilly, the keyboard doesn't work anymore after booting the system. The Touchpad works, the keyboard backlight works but typing does not function at all.

    I only disconnected the battery connector and touched nothing else. I am quite desperate …

    Gerd Uyan -

    I agree with Dave la Rose, provided you use heat rather than solvent to remove the old battery (or possibly floss, haven’t done that). Please see my comment further down this thread on how to use an iOpener for correctly heating the glue joint

    I. Margaronis -

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    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de batería directamente de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    • Asegúrate de levantar solo en el conector o puedes arriesgarte a dañar la placa lógica permanentemente.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon -

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama -

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg -

    Thank you Richie I was trying to lift the socket.

    be careful the little square block is actually made of 2 parts and you only have to lift the upper part as Richie said

    ilyes -

    You can do it from the side like the picture, but i would recommend twisting almost like a screw driver once you have leverage under the overhanging part of the left side like in the picture. Twist the tool so that it starts to put pressure on the top, until you’ll hear it click out. You can be somewhat forceful but it shouldn’t require a lot of strength. Guiding the tool with one hand and twisting with the other is a good way to attempt this.

    Colin Nowers -

    After I put the battery back I found out at this step that the new battery connector was off by 2 mm (because I installed my battery slightly off). Since the connector is rigid, I removed it’s plastic cover (just like we all did in Step 4) to free the cable, which allowed me to bent it enough to properly plug the connector.

    Marc -

    Simple question: why we need to do this, I mean, disconnect battery from main board?

    Bin Zhu -

    Well, I’m reading this step in the battery replacement repair guide, so it’s pretty critical to disconnect the battery from the main board. I’m guessing these steps are reused in other guides where disconnecting the battery might not be such an obvious need.

    surf -

    The connector wires from the battery to the connector are long

    You'll have to bend them downward and into the small cove that exists so the connector can fit in place.
    So use the a plastic card or flat end of the spudger to bend them downward and folded a bit back so the connector will fit in place.
    Use your old battery as a guide for how they should be bent.

    RON BUENO -

    Hi All ,

    I followed the instructions step by step and changed the board successfully and reconnected everything back. When I powered it back on I can see it is charging again however it just displays a black screen and no display. Keyboard light comes on as well and the apple logo light on the back lid also turns on. Not sure what is wrong ? It has been charging for more than 15 minutes and still no joy. Anyone able to help solve or identify the issue .

    Thanks

    Kaleem -

    The connector cover is slightly wider and longer than the socket (<1mm) so there is a small "lip" around the top that can be used to lift it.

    Richard KeslerWest -

    If your are not familiar with those repairs, and as with most of those connections, I recommend to take the time to observe your computer and the pictures from the tutorial, reading instructions and comments before starting each step. This battery connector needs both a bit of force and of precision. For a battery repair the connection of the new battery is a bit more tricky, you need to have your battery in the right position and to force it a bit the connector

    David Obis -

  6. FwTIMvtITSjKBUfL

    • Pliega el conector de la batería hacía arriba y sácalo del medio para prevenir contacto accidental con su enchufe durante la reparación.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes -

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab -

    @sebasgaes, shoot, I'm only part way through the process, but I skipped this step thinking it wasn't necessary. I'm only through step 12 right now, but is there a fix if my machine doesn't recognize the wifi hardware after I've put it all back together? I don't see reference to the "I/O board cable" anywhere else in the instructions, so I'm confused about your mention of that...

    jiclark -

    UPDATE: I completed the job, rebooted, and all is well, wifi and all. Thanks anyway; gotta love iFixIt!!

    jiclark -

  7. BEci1dMSL6MSth2H
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    • Retira con cuidado el tope de goma del ventilador del borde del disipador de calor.

    • El parachoques del ventilador envuelve el disipador de calor y encaja en las ranuras del conducto del ventilador. Durante el montaje, asegúrate de colocar las lengüetas en las muescas del conducto del ventilador.

    have lost the rubber fann bumper, what part do you have to buy to get this rubber? thank you

    Walid Shraim -

    I changed out the noisy fan around 4-5 months ago. And lately it was back and I was super irritated about the poor quality of the replacement fan. Opening up the case and blowing on the ventilator some compressed air there was no noise whatsoever. I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover/bumper which could vibrate in the air flow channel. So verify that you insert rubber cover clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.

    Albert Stein -

    Use a flashlight and magnifying glass to see how the bottom of the bumper that wraps around the heatsink sits into the fan duct before you remove it. If it is not seated properly it can make noise. You’re welcome.

    Ron LaPedis -

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    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para despegar las cuatro pegatinas de espuma de los tornillos del disipador de calor.

    Ok, might be a dumb question, but where can I get the foam stickers, and are they absolutely necessary after reassembling the heat sink?

    akdarstudios -

    I re-used the ones that I pulled off, and my guess is that they aren’t really necessary since they seem to just fit between the Torx screws and the bottom cover. I really doubt they are part of the heat removal system but are there to prevent vibration.

    Ron LaPedis -

    When I removed the pads, they separated from the double face tape adhering them to the screws. The tape stuck to the screws. I lifted the tape off with a utility knife and saved it. On reassembly, the tape would stick to the screws, but would not hold the pads. Still worthwhile putting the tape on the screws because it keeps adhesive from clogging the head of the screw. I cleaned the pads well (IPA or denatured alcohol will work). To get them to stick I put a minuscule dab on the screw and on the bottom of the pad.

    fba -

  9. iKgetFMgTYhYy1II

    • Retira los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el disipador de calor a la placa lógica:

    • Un tornillo T5 de 2,7 mm (plateado)

    • Cuatro tornillos T5 (negros)

    Please be very very careful when reassembling. The four black screws seem to be poor quality and the top snapped off two of them when trying to tighten them. Does anyone know the size of these or compatibility from other models as finding a replacement for them is proving to be almost impossible without shipping them in for a ridiculous price…

    Sophia Grace -

    The single screw on the left hand side on the image above, what type of screw is it? The one on my Macbook is a phillips head one. And for some reason, I couldn’t put it back. Any advise?

    Mahmood Chowdhury -

    These should all be T5 Torx screws. There could be variations in the construction of the laptop compared to this guide, but I’d check out our ID Your MacBook tool to be sure you’re following the correct guide! If you are following the correct guide, be sure all the elements under the screw are properly seated, if they’re not well aligned the screw may not get a good anchor. Best of luck!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I can confirm that on my 2015 13” Macbook Pro, the single screw on the left hand side is a #000 phillips screw.

    Stephen Martin -

    Mine is also a philips head

    Justin Parry -

    They are Torx T5 on my MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Early 2015)

    Ron LaPedis -

    I’m doing 2 early 2015 13” macbook pro’s right now simultaneously and both have same size torx for all 5 screws. Upgrading logic board in one and putting its old logic board in dead mac.

    BTW, I’m a double EE, been doing this a long time and wanted to mention that i use only high quality German made tools for my torx and other drivers. I have found repeatedly, that the cheap tools that are given away in kits, wear out fast, sometimes after one use and lead to issues with fasteners. My drivers are made by WIHA. They are expensive but well worth it if you plan on doing this more than once or even once!

    Ross Elkins -

    yes, Phillips head screw on 13-inch early 2015 retina for my unit 2.7 ghz, 8gb ram

    robert -

    For those of you that do have the Phillips head for the single screw on the left-hand side, do you have a driver suggestion that worked well for you, without stripping the head? I have tried the 000 bit and one of the 000 drivers from ifixit but those are beginning to strip the head. I need a driver that has deep drive but I’m unsure as to which brand I should buy. I’ll spend the money for the right driver. Thanks!

    Ray Grogan -

    You can't go wrong with WIHA.

    maccentric -

    Dumb question - if my replacement logic board comes with a new heat sink attached, can I ignore these steps (other than removing the red-circled screw)? Hoping so since this part seems like a PITA.

    Steve Kroodsma -

    I too have a Phillips head for that one screw (early 2015 13” retina MBP, technically an Apple refurb). The bit I used is labelled J000 from my precision toolkit. Be careful since it so small, but i had no issues with tearing up the screw head.

    Edward Wilcox -

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    the use of a CLEAN (with isopropyl alcohol) credit card was very helpful when reapplying the thermal paste, be sure to have this “tool” on hand when reassembling.

    Colleen V -

    We need a picture of reinstallation of the 2.7mm T5 screw on the left side of the thermal bar on the head sink. That screw goes into the stud that was previously installed. It is the only place in the computer that uses a combination post. In my machine, that screw was not silver. I don't know if that was standard or not.

    James Mitchell -

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    • Utiliza la punta de un spudger para empujar a cualquier lado del conector del cable de la cámara para desplazarla afuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    I found this to be the most difficult step. There is a need to get positioned so that you have the leverage to push hard enough at exactly the point shown in the photo without risking slipping and perhaps damaging the CPU nearby

    Tony M -

    Very helpful tip from Tony.

    Thomas Sturgill -

    I used two tools simultaneously. A spudger and a pic like spudger to walk it out.

    lucas -

    Man muss den Stecker aus der Steckverbindung herausschieben, und nicht darauf drücken . In der englischsprachigen Anleitung steht auch push und nicht etwa press…

    Holger -

    There are 2 black tabs either side - force them towards the back of the back of computer. It seemed to pop out super easily just doing it gently.

    Josh -

    This step is very difficult. With care it could be omitted. After detach the cable from the glue on the back cover of fan, there is enough clearance to take the fan assembly out with a little pivoting, just be careful and don’t put too much stress on the table where it make a 90 downward turn to the connector. Reinstalling is just reverse and doable as well.

    Xiaokun Xu -

    After readying all, trying Josh’s tip with no joy, I found that two nice sized fingernails made this easy x 2! Just push on each little indent simultaneously.

    Ross Elkins -

    Thanks Ross! This was my 2nd time every opening a laptop and using two finger nails to push on the little indents worked amazing!

    Carolyn Wang -

    I pulled the cable directly and it got off easily.

    When assembling it，just used two fingernail on two sides of the plug and pushing it back。

    After all these，checked iSight working well。

    Junjie2021 -

    Is there any hope for me? I did this step wrong and the connector came off the motherboard. Can that piece be glued back in place?

    Leslie Nuss -

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    • Despega el cable de la cámara iSight fuera de la carcasa del ventilador para doblarla fuera del camino.

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    • Utiliza la punta de un spudger para voltear la pestaña del conector ZIF del ventilador.

    • Jala con cuidado el cable del ventilador fuera de su zócalo.

    my cable was glued, had to be pryed up first.

    maccentric -

    I found it a bit difficult to know exactly when the new one is back in position.

    steffen -

    Take a close look at the spacing in the 3 photos. You essentially just flip the tab 90 degrees to stay vertical, then you pull the cable carefully out. When putting the new one in, no need to press hard. Just a little bit so you have that 2-3 mm spacing and then flip the tab back down.

    Daniel -

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    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el ventilador a la caja superior:

    • Un tornillo T5 Torx de 5.0 mm

    • Dos tornillos T5 Torx de 3.6 mm

    When reinstalling, do the screw closest to the front of the computer first.

    Steve Wechsler -

    I second this advice as I screwed the fan in first and then tried to plug the cable in and the angle required to get it in put too much tension and the plug separated from the cable (very fragile). So now I had to order a new one.

    Joe Healy -

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    • Levanta el lado del ventilador más cercano a la bisagra de la pantalla, y remueve el ventilador de la caja superior.

    Um, this guide should include steps for applying thermal paste, including instructions to clean the mating surfaces, and pictures showing how much thermal paste to use.

    TheIronGiant -

    Hi @theirongiant, there are generic thermal paste application instructions linked in the introduction “Don't forget to follow our thermal paste application guide before you reinstall your heat sink.”

    Sam Goldheart -

    Make sure to put the end furthest away from the hinge under the ribbon cable first.

    Then place the hinge side. The screw furthest away from the hinge is partially obscured by the ribbon cable.

    If not placed correctly, ribbon cable damage may result.

    toodarkpark -

    Thanks to toodarkpark, it’s the priority to connect the cable of Fan before place it on position completely.

    If reverse the step, it will become ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE to insert the cable.

    Junjie2021 -

Conclusión

Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

Autor

Andrew Optimus Goldheart

Miembro Desde 17/10/09

494159 Reputación

17 comentarios

Very good instructions, just completed the fan replacement, no issues -

David Tyra -

Fantastic instructions, brilliant depictions for assistance. Thank you!

Ethan Tarquin -

I completed this guide and it was brilliant, so thank you Andrew Optimus Goldberg and your contributors! I have a question about the Macbook's heat post-installation of a new fan.

I replaced the fan last night, and put everything back together. Today, the new fan is responding well under activities that would previously make the fan extremely loud and cause intense heat to build up on the bottom right of the Macbook: so far so good.

However, it seems heat is now being distributed to the keys and directly below the screen, and I can even feel it underneath the trackpad, and this is from simply turning the Macbook on with no applications straining the CPU.

Is this something to worry about? Have I possibly made a mistake in my installation, or is this normal for an ordinary working fan?

Thanks for any help that may be given. Appreciated

Ethan Tarquin -

Is the fan you replaced the original one with the exact same model? While im no expert on this stuff my guess would be that it distributes air differently. I hope it works out for you though.

Nikolay -

Just completed the fan replacement. Great clear instructions. No issues. Thank you so much.

Donald Kelly -

pube toast 2 too short

Albert Einstein -

Completed the fan replacement the instructions were great, no troubles at all. The fan was an exact fit and fast shipping !

Jerome Kurtzman -

This was an excellent tutorial. After buying a Macbook repair kit ~$10 with the screwdrivers and spudger, I was able to I was able to replace my fan in about 30 minutes without any problems. Thanks very much for this.

Dylan Parry -

My son told me about a system breakdown while streaming video at his Macbook. He also told me about strange fan noise at that time.

I checked the MBP 13” 2015 Retina, Apple diagnostic showed nothing and system seems to run normal when I was at the machine afterwards.

I installed “Macs fan control” and this showed me that the fan ran with zero rpm under light load. The temperature was about 70 degree (all in Celsius) and stayed there while browsing news-sites.

CAN THIS BE?

I was able to set any rotation speed manually. The 5th-generation Intel core U-Line CPU has a 105 degree T-junction (->IntelARK).

Now I am frightend about using the machine because I don’t want it to get overheated.

What do you think? Is this really the normal behavior for the MbP 13” Retina 2015 fan? Should it not run with a little rotation speed all the time?

Thanx for any experiences shared!

Marc Prinz -

Are the left and right fans any different from each other ?

O Z -

Very helpful step by step, instructions and images are very clear. As far as I can tell, all went well but I want to give it more time and use before I feel 100% about the repair.

Rodney Steele -

Thank you, this guide was great. I couldn't be without my laptop and with the nearest genius bar closed I wasn't sure where to go for repairs. My spouse directed me to this site from deployment.

With the ifixit toolkit and this link I was able to replace my fan in about an hour even with toddlers trying to climb up my legs.

T K -

When you removed your heat sink,

you showed two very clean silicone chips.

And you left a note referencing a generalized how to apply thermal paste article.

So. one would have to assume that only one of those silicon chips should have thermal paste on it. (if somebody else worked on the laptop before we did)

Ro ru -

I followed these instructions, and it physically there were no issues. But now, it won't start up at all.

Tried SMC reset, disconnecting and reconnecting the battery.

The charger light went from orange to green, indicating the charging circuit is fine.

Any ideas what went wrong for me?

Laptop worked fine before, but the fan bearings had gone and it was very noisy. Now it doesn’t even turn on.

Chris C -

I have the exact same problem, replaced the fan because the old ones rattled and i have now replaced it, but the fan doesn’t even begin to spin. i tried installing Mac Fan Controll to manually set to full speed but the RPM stays an orange ZERO. Do i have to reset something in the settings after replacing the fan?

Vorname Nachname -

I have a good question. Is the fan on the i7 model different than the one on the i5 model?

makaveli559m -

Very good guide, great pictures. It took me 2 hours. I like to take pictures to help with reassembly if I need them and document each step as I go. Replacing the bumpers on the heat sink screws also slowed me down. I will put a comment in Step 8.

fba -