Remplazo del Riel del sensor del Joy Con derecho del Nintendo Switch

Escrito Por: Craig Lloyd
  • Comentarios: 84
Remplazo del Riel del sensor del Joy Con derecho del Nintendo Switch

Dificultad

Moderado

Pasos

18

Tiempo Requerido

30 minutos - 1 hora

Introducción

Sigue esta guía para remplazar el Riel del sensor de Joy Con derecho en la consola de juegos Nintendo Switch.

La Switch usa tornillos JIS , pero puedes usar un destornillador Phillips en una urgencia. Tenga mucho cuidado de no dañar los tornillos. Las puntas Phillips de iFixit están diseñadas para ser compatibles con los tornillos de estilo JIS.

Nota: Cuando remuevas la placa protectora, necesitaras remplazar el compuesto termino entre la placa y el disipador. Debido a que pasta térmica normal no esta diseñada para cubrir grandes brechas, el remplazo mas cercano es la pasta térmica viscosa K5 Pro.

Nota: Esta guía, y la parte que vendemos, son compatibles con el modelo de original de Nintendo Switch lanzado en 2017, como el modelo nuevo refrescado lanzado en 2019 (numero de modelos HAC-001 y HAC-001(-01), respectivamente).

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    • Antes de comenzar esta reparación, asegúrate de que el dispositivo está completamente apagado.

    • Mantén pulsado el pequeño botón redondo de la parte trasera del mando Joy Con.

    • Mientras mantienes pulsado el botón, desliza el mando hacia arriba.

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    • Continúa deslizando el control hacia arriba hasta sacarlo completamente de la consola.

    • Repite este mismo proceso para el otro control.

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    • Utiliza un destornillador Y00 para retirar los cuatro tornillos de 6.3mm de longitud que sujetan el panel trasero.

    • A lo largo de esta reparación, mantén un registro de cada tornillo y asegúrate de que vuelve exactamente al mismo lugar de origen.

    Had to use a Y0 from my kit - the Y00 was too small to get a grip on the screw.

    cday -

    I also had a much easier time with Y0 versus Y00. Y00 felt like it was starting to strip the first screw I tried to remove.

    Joe -

    My screws took a little coaxing before they were all ready to come out of the back plate, but I remedied this by turning the screwdriver as little as possible with each turn. Use almost no pressure, except for at the very beginning of each screw’s first turn.

    nin10doh -

    I think my screws are stripped, any way to get them out?

    Banjomanperson -

    I hear that using a rubber band can help? Not 100% sure on that though.

    Pifase -

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    • Utiliza un destornillador JIS 000 o un destornillador PH000 oficial de iFixit para retirar los siguientes tornillos que fijan el panel trasero:

    • Un tornillo de 2.5 mm de longitud en el borde superior del aparato.

    • Dos tornillos de 2.5 mm de longitud en el borde inferior del aparato

    • Para prevenir estos tornillos duros de barrerse, aplica presión firme hacia abajo, ve despacio y trata de usar un destornillador JIS 000 o PH 000 si los tornillos no salen.

    Hey guys, I tried removing the upper screw and it won't go out(neither will it go in) any tips how to fix this?

    Thanks

    Nemysis -

    The screw boss might be stripped out. Has the device been taken apart before? If you can unscrew it a little bit to get the screw to peek out, maybe try and grab it with some pliers as a last-ditch effort.

    Craig Lloyd -

    I have the same problem. The JIS 000 tool works great on the joy con rails per step 5 but refuses to turn the bottom two 2.5 mm screws as in step 4. These bottom screws are noticeably smaller than the screws as in step 5. The JIS 000 does not get down into these screws. Hopefully they haven’t been stripped by the wrong tool. So is there a JIS tool that is smaller than 000? I’m stuck at this point…

    david brown -

    We used the JIS 3.0mm screwdriver for both top and bottom screws and it worked

    Brooklyn Gardner -

    Used PH00 to get these out with no problem.

    cday -

    Fun fact: these screw into little plastic tabs that stick out of the rear panel. Apparently those tabs are fragile and easy to just break off…

    Benjamin Fritz -

    My screws came out fine. But they are easily stripped with too much pressure on reassmbly

    Jaxon Lee -

    this screws are way too fragile and way too small so be careful when taking them off dont use much force and unscrew also one of them fell somewhere and spent 30 mins searching for it

    Richard Aguirre -

    PH000 will work if you don’t have JIS000. The large IFIXIT kit has both and I lost JIS000. Just be very careful as you can strip the heads when removing or inserting easier.

    Shawn Spivey -

    One thing that worked pretty well for me with the screws not coming out is slightly prying on the back cover to put them under some tension

    Florian Kraupa -

    Quick note, these screws are not magnetic. A magnetic screwdriver will hold onto any of the others safely, but you need to be careful not to drop these ones in particular.

    Jason Lane -

    These would just keep rotating and not come out. What worked was, as Florian Kraupa suggested, i slid a plastic pick just between the 2 shells near the screws to prise it open slightly, then unscrewed and out they came. They're the smallest screws I've ever almost not seen before, so be careful with them.

    Susannah Carter -

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    • Usa un destornillador JIS 000 o un destornillador PH 000 oficial de iFixit para retirar los dos tornillos centrales de 3.8 mm situados en los laterales del aparato (uno en cada lado).

    I tried my JIS 000 on Step 5 and was unable to get the screw to budge. It’s partner from the other side came right out with no trouble. Don’t really want to narf up the screw, so I bailed out. Anyone else have this issue?

    mrhoyt -

    Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!

    Craig Lloyd -

    Yeah I’m having this exact issue. Screw stripped and now I’m stuck. Wish I hadn’t even started.

    Ryan Quinn -

    I did finally get it out- one thing I noticed was some of the screws have blue Loctite on the threads. I guess they figure it’ll get tossed around. This underscores the importance of having the correct tools and making double darn sure you are using the correct size, etc.

    mrhoyt -

    What worked for me here was a Phillips 000, not a JIS 000

    Federico Zivolo -

    One of mine is totally stripped. Guess I can’t do anything now.

    Nick -

    My kit only has two screwdriver heads! The package was open when I received it!

    Cynthia Hyland -

    I had this issue as well. Screw was irreparably stripped. If you can get every other screw out, just keep applying pressure with a flat head screw driver right above the stripped screw and try to break the plastic piece holding onto the screw. It's a very minor invisible bit of damage that will allow you to continue the repair.

    Raymond Garrison -

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    • Usa tu dedo para levantar el soporte de la parte trasera del dispositivo.

    • Si hay una tarjeta microSD en la ranura para tarjetas microSD, sácala ahora antes de continuar con el siguiente paso.

    Don't put your SD card on your magnetic mat.

    Chris Cotter -

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    • Utiliza un destornillador JIS 000 o un destornillador PH 000 oficial de iFixit para retirar el tornillo de 1.6 mm en el pozo de la pata de cabra.

    • Cierra el soporte.

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    • Abre la solapa del cartucho de tarjetas de juego.

    • La solapa del cartucho de la tarjeta de juego se adhiere a la otra mitad de la carcasa de plástico, lo que impide levantar completamente el panel trasero si está cerrado.

    • Levanta el panel trasero desde la parte inferior del dispositivo y retíralo.

    How to remove micro SD port?

    Pull straight up, press back into place when closing back up.

    Christopher Hernandez -

    This step is missing in this guide. Here are the steps from another guide:

    Step 9) Remplazo del Riel del sensor del Joy Con derecho del Nintendo Switch

    Step 10) Remplazo del Riel del sensor del Joy Con derecho del Nintendo Switch

    David -

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    • Utiliza un destornillador JIS 000 o un destornillador PH 000 oficial de iFixit para retirar el tornillo de 3.1 mm que fija el lector de tarjetas microSD al dispositivo.

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    • Utiliza tus dedos o unas pinzas para levantar el lector de tarjetas microSD directamente del dispositivo para desconectarlo y retirarlo.

    • Al volver a montarlo, asegúrate de que el conector a presión situado debajo de la almohadilla de espuma esté firmemente conectado a la placa base. Podría resultarte más fácil si retiras dicha almohadilla antes de reinstalar el lector de tarjetas.

    Yes. The reverse is not so simple- you can’t see what you’re doing when you attempt to reconnect and it only takes one small error to completely bend the contacts on the connector. Very delicate.

    if you very gently remove the foam pad sticker, you can at least see better how it lines up and can feel your way to a degree… then you can stick the pad back in. The pad seems pretty critical in keeping things in place once reassembled.

    holmzee -

    Definitely agree about not sticking the foam pad back on until the new SD card slot is connected. Saved a lot of headache. Great walkthrough and easy repair!

    Jonathan Stachewicz -

    Tried several times to replace this SD reader module. As mentioned above, the issue is aligning the connectors together. It appears the foam tape is being used to hold the connection in place. (assuming you can make a viable connection) I am rather surprised at this design. In my experience, mylar ribbon cables like this usually slide into a small PC mounted socket. It appears Nintendo went the cheap route here. This design is prone to failure since it does not enable a positive connection - at least from what I can see.

    Bill Little -

    Alors je suis en détresse total . Jai cassé les bouches en or sur le connecteur qui est soudé sur la carte mère.. comment changer cette toute petite pièces, oû la trouver . Cela fais 1 mois que je cherche partout. Sans remplacer la carte mère. Merci pour vos réponses

    Mike Snow -

    I found it easier to connect it without the black foam pad so I could see and than add the foam pad over it. It was super easy and I an I 33 Mom doing this for my son. Was well worth the money for the kit saved us almost 100 bucks

    Katherine Harrison -

    Had my son follow this guide to fix his own switch where the ad card reader didn't work. And he did. Great instructions!!!! Thanks a million!

    William Scott -

    The only difficult part of following this guide is connecting the new sd card reader into the poorly designed motherboard connector. Its quite possible the sd card reader that came in the console wasnt broken at all.

    The repair kit works just as advertised and even comes with stickers.

    Matthias_ Links -

    I’m still getting error 2002-2054 even after replacing memory card reader module. Thanks, Nintendo!

    Wes Stephenson -

    My switch won’t read my microSD card after I reassembled it (error 2016-0641) please help!

    Nate Topical -

    Tip: Keep the old SD reader piece loosely attached while you line up and gently press the new SD component into the connector on the motherboard. Once the new piece is snug, then carefully remove the old piece keeping the sticky foam in place.

    I am a middle-aged mom with absolutely no special tech skills and I easily followed the directions and successfully fixed the broken SD drive. ifixit is the best!

    Wende David -

    Ah good! i have more confidence now in doing it once you said you're a middle age mom with no experience

    Mohammad Hosein Yavari -

    I missed this bit about reconnecting the SD card reader under the foam pad and didn’t realise until my son pointed out a data storage problem?. All fixed in about 5 minutes taking advice from the replacing the SD card reader fix, especially removing the foam pad from the connector to better see and feel what you’re doing. All sorted!

    Stuart Farquharson-Roberts -

    Awesome guide! Very easy to do with the supplied kit

    cravenkeo khamone -

    Tank you very much, and by tank I mean M1 Abrams, jokes apart easy and simple to follow

    Elia Veschi -

    Thanks for the guide, I was struggling to find a solution, replaced more sd cards, before I stumbled upon this post. The Switch of my children works flawless again!

    Robert Morvai -

    Doesn’t work! I have spent 4 hours and $26 on a tiny screwdriver and some stickers.. I just gave up and replaced the Switch instead.

    I even contacted a local shop to have them fix it and they told me it really isn’t possible. Thanks for taking my money Ifixit!

    J.R. Wood -

    This helped me to reseat my SD card reader ribbon cable. I was getting the 2016-0641 error and no card work. A drop had dislodged the cable partially. And yes remove the foam pad gently to properly connect the cable. You can reuse the foam pad.

    Kris Morey -

    For anyone who ends up bending the pins like I did while trying to reseat the microSD card reader…

    I suggest gently placing very thin tweezers (like the curved ones in the Pro Tool Kit) in the gap and very, very gently pressing them back into alignment. Took a little effort but I was able to realign them enough to sit it in place and have it later working after reassembling the console.

    Yakarot Sennin -

    Anyone have a suggestion where I can purchase replacement foam for this sticker?

    Rob M -

    When reassembling, note the alignment pins in the left and bottom notches before tightening the screw

    Jason Lane -

    Super gemakkelijk te installeren met behulp van deze zeer duidelijke handleiding (met dank aan de vertalers!)

    Wel even goed opletten op de aansluiting op het moederbord is zeer fragiel.

    R de Bruijne -

    It is key to remember most out of the box issues with the SD card reader, do not require a replacement part and can be solved with disconnecting then re-connecting the reader at the motherboard.

    Only when a simple re-seating at the connector doesn't work should you buy the replacement part.

    Jonathon Sinclair -

    I bought the kit and followed the directions. I plucked the black rubber foam off with a pair of eyelash tweezers. Putting the tiny screws back in place also was made easier using the tweezers. As for placing the SD card in place I think I got a bit lucky. I lined it up and gently pressed until it simply went into place. I do believe being gentle is the key there. But it went in and I put it back together. The deconstructing and reconstructing is what took the longest for me at least. I turned it on to verify it worked and then unpowered the unit and inserted the card. The system recognized and update right away and did it and then recognized the card! Just what I need for 20 something dollars. Son is happy and back to gaming.

    Albert Baker -

    Thank you for postingthis fix. The original sd card reader had come unplugged from the motherboard, so replacement reader will be a spare.

    Anybody found a way to ensure the sd reader stays in place?

    Craig Thwaites -

    It was my first time repairing a Switch and the fan replacement wasn't too hard, but unfortunately I think there should be a better warning about the SD card connector because I damaged it while trying to put it back in. I couldn't hear any click and it didn't seem to stay put and I think I ended up applying to much force and damaging the pins.

    Serge Huber -

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    • Usa un destornillador JIS 000 o un destornillador PH 000 oficial de iFixit para retirar los seis tornillos de 3 mm que fijan la placa de protección al aparato.

    Some models have a small board in the lower left beneath the kickstand which accepts SD cards. This will have to be carefully removed with its connections popped out, then replaced after.

    Draque Thompson -

    Yeah, that “small board” is the microSD Card reader chip, which was covered literally one step ago. All models have a microSD Card reader, that’s how game data is stored…

    nin10doh -

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    • Utiliza tus dedos o unas pinzas para despegar el trozo de espuma que hay en el borde superior del aparato, cerca del puerto de salida del ventilador.

    • Si la espuma no se pela fácilmente, no la forces porque puede rasgarse. Pela cuidadosamente en lugares diferentes para echar atrás la espuma.

    My Switch (bought about two weeks after launch) seems to be missing this foam piece… Was it added later, similar to the foam piece in the left joy-con (to improve connectivity)?

    firetech -

    It’s possible it was added to newer units! Nintendo slightly updated the internals of the Switch not too long ago.

    Craig Lloyd -

    My launch Switch also does not have this piece of foam, so it was most likely added later.

    Christoph -

    Also did not see this in my launch switch.

    matthew.raehl -

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    • Inserta un spudger debajo de la placa de escudo a lo largo del borde del dispositivo.

    • Haz palanca para levantar la placa de escudo y removerla del dispositivo.

    • Es posible que sientas un poco de resistencia. Esto es normal, ya que la placa de escudo está ligeramente adherida al disipador de calor con pasta térmica.

    • Un compuesto térmico rosado espeso cierra el espacio entre la placa protectora y el disipador de calor de cobre debajo. Esto ayuda a evitar que el Switch se sobrecaliente.

    • Puedes reutilizar el compuesto térmico rosa si tienes cuidado. Mantén el compuesto limpio y asegúrate de que haces un contacto sólido entre el disipador de calor y el protector durante el montaje.

    • Si necesitas reemplazarlo, consulta nuestra guía de pasta térmica para quitar el compuesto térmico antiguo y reemplazarlo con un compuesto apropiado, como K5 Pro, durante el reensamblaje.

    How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?

    Youji Hong -

    Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..

    MacTek -

    When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?

    Diego Soto -

    I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound

    Adam Stillman -

    No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.

    MacTek -

    Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.

    Shawn Christensen -

    Why was this not included in the tools/equipment list? Getting to this step and now I will have to reverse and wait for yet another order to arrive. ? Very frustrated

    Amanda Nally -

    Hi Amanda,

    Thanks for bringing this up. Sorry! We inadvertently left that part out during the guide refresh. I’ll add the necessary info into the step.

    Arthur Shi -

    To apply new thermal paste, the directions state to use the application method recommended for your specific processor type—vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread.

    Which method should be used for the Nintendo Switch processor?

    Philip W -

    As stated in the comment above, is there a particular method to apply thermal paste to the Switch’s processor? Or as long as you distribute it evenly is enough?

    lievjorg -

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    • Usa la punta de un spudger para hacer palanca en el conector de la batería hacia arriba y fuera de su zócalo en la placa madre.

    be careful not to pry it off the board entirely

    Nathan McKenna -

    This was an old switch and the entire thing with the black plastic came off.. Most of the pins aren't there anymore, too.. is there a solution to that? Does soldering work?

    Dawn Martin -

    it's probably possible, but unless you have experience with microsoldering, you'd probably be better off taking it to a local repair shop

    just some mango -

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    • Usa un spudger, herramienta de apertura, o tu uña para levantar una pequeña solapa de bloqueo en el conector ZIF del cable de datos del riel del Joy Con.

    The zif connector was split when I went to replace and the cable is not seating in the broken connector. Suggestions?

    Colleen Montgomery -

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    • Usa un par de pinzas para deslizar el cable de datos del riel del Joy Con afuera de su conector en la placa madre.

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    • Usa un destornillador JIS 000 o un destornillador oficial PH 000 de iFixit para remover los cuatro tornillos de 3.7 mm que sujetan el riel del Joy Con derecho al marco del dispositivo.

    • Estos tornillos están apretados y pueden ser difíciles de quitar. Utiliza un destornillador JIS, no un destornillador Phillips, durante este procedimiento. De lo contrario, corres el riesgo de pelar los tornillos.

    Pozidrive too?

    infonetmartelli -

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    • Remueve el sensor del riel del Joy Con derecho.

    • Toma cuidado de no atrapar el cable de datos del riel en el marco del dispositivo cuando lo remuevas.

Conclusión

Compara tu parte de remplazo con la parte original. Puede que necesites transferir componentes restantes o remover el protector del adhesivo de la nueva parte antes de la instalación.

Para re-ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

Toma tu desecho electrónico a un centro de reciclaje certificado.

La reparación no salió como planeado? Trata unas soluciones de problemas básicos, pregunta a nuestra Comunidad de respuestas de Nintendo Switch por ayuda.

Autor

Craig Lloyd

Miembro Desde 10/02/16

30227 Reputación

10 comentarios

Would you happen to know how to take out the screws if they’ve been stripped due to corrosion/rust? The back and site plate screws seem to have corroded and started to strip when I tried to unscrew them.

MrColorless -

I am running into same problem now. 3 out of 4 back screws are striped

Ryan Kindle -

This was a wonderful guide. Its straight forward, simple to understand, and doesnt pass over any steps large or small. Thank you to your team for what you do for us all.

Nicholas Bell -

what can i do if the bracket has snapped off of the consel?

and where could i purchase replacement parts

joe mama -

Do the parts exist yet to do this repair on the OLED model? The sensor rail is very slightly different from the original so just curious if there’s any ETA on when parts will start showing up for it

Matt -

I did just this. Used an old switch rail in my OLED. It still works but not all the screws line up and it is a little loose, but still very functional.

Redroc -

Thank you very much for the guide. With the right tools and attention to detail, this should be a breeze for just about anyone.

Joshua Dudash -

Does this rail handle the connectivity of the Joycons to the Switch? My left Joycon disconnects in handheld mode, and it does it with any Joycons. I've also modded steel locks locks into my Joycon and ruled out physical issues. Disturbing the left Joycon in any way (other then properly disconnecting, of course) did not reproduce the problem. It happens randomly.

Does replacing the rail replace all associated hardware with this function?

Angela Moray -

After replacing the rail, many of the games had to redownload data. Is this an coincidence or some anti piracy thing?

Chris Eilander -

Tout a fonctionné nickel, merci pour ce très bon tutoriel, j'ai remplacé le rail droit de la Switch qui reconnait désormais de nouveau le JoyCon.

Maqam Rast -