Reparación de un potencial YLOD de la PlayStation 3

Fake repair. Real fault: How to Delid and fix the Yellow Light of Death for good (NEC TOKIN Replacement) https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-delid...

How to Delid and fix the Yellow Light of Death for good (NEC TOKIN Replacement) https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-delid...

I need a tork screw bracket / holder A/E/B/E01- MG and security torx screw for a CECH-AO1 do u guys sell these?

How to Delid and fix the Yellow Light of Death for good (NEC TOKIN Replacement) https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-delid...

That small metal bracket/socket set up looks completely different in the ps3 I'm working on. Model: CECHK01.

Any suggestions?

different in mine too, Model: CECHP01

mine does not have one at all

1st attempt, fan loud. Ps3 lasted about 2 wks. 2nd attempt noticed very poor contact between heatsink & cpu,gpu when taking it apart. Research - Found a better way to apply thermal past. I personally disapprove of guide on this. A small bit about the size of a grain of rice in center of cpu is plenty. Clamp the heat sinks back on. Then take it apart & check contact area. Thermal paste should have spread to about the size of a quarter.(more is better. Less then a nickel size is poor contact) possibly weak clamps. Carefully applied pressure onto the cpu & gpu, pressing them into the heatsinks before clamping heatsink clamps on. Achieved greater then quarter sized thermal past spread. Fan silent in comparison & ps3 lasted about a yr. Rarely did I ever hear the fan go to high and get loud after that. About to begin my third fix on this same ps3. One of the first 80g backwards compatible. other then those notes and that this guide was for a different model ps3 (minor differences) I liked this guide. easy to follow.

Disconnect the memory card ribbon cable.

Some more details here as well.

The newer model without SACD support appears to have added that clip to the back right that needs to be pressed to release the top shell.

If equipped with the card reader you can either have to disconnect the ribbon cable or unclip the reader from the top shell after lifting it up to get finger or tool in there to push clip to side and release reader from top shell. Note: if you failed to remove the card reader screws in the previous step these clips can break.

I would add… “Be careful taking these type of connectors apart” …. its easy to pull the entire thing off the motherboard and rip pads !

The pulled pads can be replaced but its extra work you don’t need :-) and requires equipment and skill to do and cold require jumper wires.

My PS3 is the CECHL01 and I had to remove the PSU to get to the disk drive ribbon cable.

The version 2 systems baseboard PCB started switching to the new narrow 24 pin ZIF header/ribbon and Blu-Ray drive connection.

You should not attempt to detach the taped ribbon cable from the drive end first as described above for the older wide 60 pin ribbons. You must remove the drive and ribbon as one unit to protect the fragile ZIF sockets.

The slimmer fragile ribbon is taped to the drive housing to afford a more secure ZIF connection. The opposite base connection is slightly under the PSU.

continued

On my machine (fat PS3 with no card reader and 2 USB ports), there is no upper right screw to remove.

That 30mm screw is the one lower down under the power cable, not the higher up one with the embossed arrow pointing at it.

Hey guys, that red and orange you are using are not at all identifiable as separate colors to some of us with colorblindness. I had to get my buddy to tell me which one was orange and which was red. In the future, it would be most helpful if you stuck to contrasting colors. Great guide, thanks for making it!

My Ps3 was a little different..

The rear backing plate is connected to the fan shroud beneath the unit that is screwed into the bottom of the case.. And these large chrome pieces attatched to the fan were stuck to the tray that the board is on. Came a part pretty rough, guessing the ps3 got so hot it turned the grease into glue lol

If you already suspect you may have a slightly different PS3 model to the one pictured here STOP RIGHT NOW! Do not try and lift the motherboard off the lower casing if it is not coming easily. On mine, the cooling fan and heat sinks have extra screws directly into the lower plastic case and you will not be able to lift the motherboard out until after you have done Step 27. So skip this step, continue through the guide, skip 18-23 (you probably don't have a memory card reader). After unscrewing the 4 screws in Step 27, pull hard to separate the motherboard from the heat sinks (they will be attached with thermal paste like a glue). Only then will you be able to access the screws to separate the large fan and heat sinks from the plastic lower case.

Incidentally I totally smashed mine trying to get the lower case off here at step 15 - I broke the screws off, warped the metal on the heat sink and snapped pieces of plastic. But I continued and did the heat gun stuff and it still actually worked!!

On my PS3 the ground wire(green/yellow) was actually routed under the bolt for the power supply, so I had to remove the power supply before I could removed the AC inlet

I had to loosen the two screws on the perforated cover to get the ground wire out.

Had to remove 2 screws (the top 2 screws marked in step 25) to get the ground cable out.

Like @asciimo and @deuxphoria, I had to loosen the same two screws to get the ground wire out. When you're putting the PS3 back together and you're doing the steps in reverse, it helps to leave those two screws unscrewed during Step 25 and wait until you put the AC inlet back in Step 18.

If going in reverse do this step after step 18, otherwise you will have hard time getting the earth cable routed.

Only the very first release of the PS3 used to have the memory card reader. Most recent models do not have it (such as my PS3 model CECHG04). In this case just skip steps 22 and 23.

Also, these screws should be removed in step 5 to prevent breaking the clips that secure the card reader to the top shell.

I have a CECHA01 and the card reader is attached to the top cover. Per comments at step 5, the 2 screws mentioned at step 22 are removed at step 5. The ribbon cable mentioned here in step 23 should be removed at step 5.

If leaving card reader attached to top shell this step should be part of step 6.

I had a small black wire taped to the side of my power supply. If you have this - remember to remove the tape, first, or you run the risk of pulling the wire out.

so do we apply arctic silver 5 thermal paste to the heat sink pads that attach to the CPU GPU,Or do we only apply thermal paste to the chips /pads CPU GPU ?

In some PS3 versions, such as my PS3 model CECHG04, the heat sink is attached to the lower half of the motherboard shield, so in order to remove the motherboard you have to lift the top cover and detach the motherboard from the heat sink.

Yeah, on mine (which is the very first revision of the PS3), you have to add a SUPER heavy amount of thermal paste, for it to even make contact. Odd.

Missing a step here where you actually remove the cw1-100 board. 4 screws and it comes out.

In the most recent PS3 versions, the PRAM battery is located on the motherboard: remove it before performing the reflow and don’t forget to put it back before starting the re-assembly.

Worked. Took 3 hours to complete.

****NOTES that weren't mentioned here****

1. Heat Gun on processors = zigzag from top left to bottom right - then circle back up to the top left. repeat.

2. No thermal pads available in your area?

I used the same thermal pads that came with the PS3

3. No T-10 security screw driver?

I broke the very first step - I didn't have a t10 security driver and jsut figured I would risk breaking the cover a bit by pulling it straight up - popped right off - then broke the stupid screw right off of it.

4. took 15 minutes to find things to ensure the motherboard we perfectly level.

5. I let the Motherboard sit for exactly 17 minutes and then applied Arctic silver.

6. No Screwtray ?

I used a piece of duct tape, sorta flipped it around so it was a sticky pad to grab all the screws and not let them get unorganized.

I hope I remember to report back how long the system runs until it dies again, which I hear happens fairly quickly after this type of operation.

Good Luck.

mine has a small round tab on the PRAM battery housing that locks it in place. i had to slip the flat end of the spudger between the PRAM battery housing and motherboard cover to release the tab. after that it rotated quite easily with no need for pliers or anything.

The fixit kit doesn’t come with a Phillips head small enough?

On step 38 what is the thread count on the 8.3mm screws? I'm missing and need to know before I go out to the store.