Sustitución de la Placa Base Superior del Mando (Controlador) Inalámbrico de la Xbox One Model 1708

Escrito Por: Lien (Ally) Quan
  • Comentarios: 34
Sustitución de la Placa Base Superior del Mando (Controlador) Inalámbrico de la Xbox One Model 1708

Dificultad

Difícil

Pasos

10

Tiempo Requerido

15 minutos

Introducción

Esta guía te mostrará cómo acceder y reemplazar la placa base superior. Se requiere soldadura, por lo que se incluye el enlace a la guía de soldadura para ayudarte.

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    • Desliza la tapa de la batería hacia la parte superior del control para retirarla.

    • Levanta las pilas o el paquete de pilas del compartimento de las pilas.

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    • Inserta una herramienta de apertura de plástico en la costura superior y mueve suavemente la herramienta de apertura hasta la parte inferior del controlador.

    • Continúa usando la herramienta de apertura para sacar suavemente la placa lateral del controlador.

    • Repite este proceso para la segunda placa lateral.

    Only use a pry tool! The vibration motor wires are exposed and directly accessible from the side when opening. I attempted to open it with a small knife, expecting to be able to gently pry the clips open, accidentally sliced through my right motor’s wires.

    Sawyer Coe -

    Not a sharp of course.

    Kajus Slekys -

    If you have some Guitar picks laying around they work GREAT!

    Mike Beane -

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    • Despega suavemente la etiqueta de la batería o haz un agujero en el centro de la etiqueta en el compartimiento de la batería para revelar el tornillo oculto.

    • Retira los cinco tornillos de seguridad torx-9 de 9 mm de la parte posterior del controlador.

    Torx-8 security bits work as well.

    jahiamir -

    Torx 8 or 9 wasn’t working. I used 2.0 minus screwdriver

    richjlee -

    The 2.0 minus worked for me as well.

    metric -

    When sliding in the plastic cover during reassembly be sure it lines up with the battery compartment contacts. It can be really easy to not see it and bend the contacts. If you still encounter force during this step, depressing the triggers out of the way worked for me.

    Drew -

    Since mine is out of warranty I just broke out the security nib with a 2.0 standard bit. Then used a T8 torx.

    Tim LaCrosse -

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    • Pega con cinta los motores Rumbler/shock en su lugar.

    • Esto evitará que los motores se caigan.

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    • Orienta el controlador de modo que la placa frontal quede hacia arriba.

    • Levanta la cubierta frontal del controlador.

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    • Voltea el controlador boca abajo y levanta suavemente la placa trasera.

    Reassembly: When placing the back cover on: notice that the battery terminals need to slide inside the cover first. Then compress the triggers slightly, Then the cover will be aligned correctly. Then add the front cover and add screws so it doesn’t come undone.

    hunteil -

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    • Da la vuelta al dispositivo y retira el teclado direccional tirando de él suavemente para separarlo del controlador.

    It needs to be made a little clearer that the thin metal retaining ring needs to be unclipped before pulling on the D-pad. A small, flatbladed screwdriver did it nicely for me.

    Paul Hough -

    As mentioned above, clarification is needed that the metal ring is intended to lay on top of the DPad - you should remove it first when disassembling, and it should be installed after the DPad to hold the DPad down when re-assembling.

    Additionally, the DPad is oriented so that the directional button without an extended tab on the end is on the bottom (down).

    sonofray -

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    • Retira los joysticks del controlador.

    Are the joystick potentiometers soldered to the mother board or just push fit, this guide doesn’t mention soldering so I’m assuming the latter?

    Can you get genuine replacement joystick potentiometers as I’ve only seen cheap eBay type ones?

    Alan -

    The actual joysticks themselves are soldered into the bottom motherboard.

    Bryan Remely -

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    • Si los motores de vibración se salen del marco, los cables pueden desconectarse de la placa base. Los cables tendrán que ser soldados para volver a conectar el motor.

    • Voltea el dispositivo y retira los dos tornillos torx-6 de 7,0 mm en las esquinas inferiores izquierda y derecha.

    What if you don’t care about the rumble motors (always turn that feature off anyway), can I just leave them unattached?

    tracynoelle23 -

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    • Sujeta con firmeza las placas base superior e inferior con manos opuestas y luego sepáralas con cuidado.

    • La placa base superior todavía está conectada a la placa base inferior. Para separar completamente la placa base superior, deberás usar un soldador.

    • Advertencia: No intentes desconectar el conector blindado (de color dorado) ya que es extremadamente frágil y lo romperás. Corre entre las dos placas.

    • Desuelda el cable blindado de la placa inferior en lugar de intentar desconectar el conector. Desuelda utilizando técnicas de microsoldadura.

    Soldering is not necessary for separation as on the top motherboard it uses a small connector commonly used in wireless assemblies for antennas. Simply pop it of using any prying tool or just your hand but make sure it is the side that has a gold or brassy finish and not a solder joint.

    Wyatt Faught -

    Hey Wyatt,

    Thanks for the feedback. I was on the team that authored this guide. I did not work on this specific guide so I am not familiar with this specific connector. I will follow up with iFixIt and check this issue. Thanks for the comment!

    Dylan Gross -

    Wyatt is correct that the black wire in the center can be removed from the top motherboard, but it doesn’t do any good to do so as there are two other sets of wires (grey and black twisted pairs leading to the left and right trigger) preventing you from removing the bottom motherboard entirely. These wires are visible in the pictures of this guide.

    Frank Buccella -

    I accidentally broke the part where the black wire connects to. Do I need to buy the top motherboard to fix this problem?

    drakeswifer -

    I can further confirm this as I have just pulled one apart. No soldering iron required.

    Brandon -

    What's is the name of the part for wireless on the controller

    justin edge -

    You'll see..

    Kajus Slekys -

    In my controller that black cable (the antenna like) was separated form the board is there any way to solder it again (the socket is still conected to plug)

    Dominik Gałczyński -

    I have the same problem. It popped off the board when firm pressure was applied to reconnect the wire after a repair. I'm going to attempt to apply a small bead of solder to the part that popped off, press it in place, and then heat the connector with my iron. But I am not hopeful at all. It's tight, really tight, and if it works it will be through luck alone.

    Michael Broder -

    Any luck? Theres no pad to get the solder to stick to on mine. Im assuming it is the j1 connection. Any idea what this wire is for?

    Matt Gribbin -

    Same issue here. I tried to unplug the antenna connector but the weak solder joints disconnected from the top motherboard instead. Looks like it has couple of bigger solder pads for ground/shielding(?) and one tiny pin in the middle for the actual antenna which can maybe still connect by pushing in place? Looks like a very difficult solder job as everything is so tiny.

    Kari Söderholm -

    Can someone help to find out the actual name of RF connector type?

    mntlzr -

    Hi i destroy black wire connector on top board please help me.

    Mohsen Heidary -

    It’s IPEX 4 connector, i've ordered bunch on chinese site and replaced mine. It was hard but doable.

    mntlzr -

    mntlzr : Thanks a lot for the connector type. More specifically it seems to be IPEX 4 SMD female socket on the top motherboard.

    Kari Söderholm -

    Hi yellow tape on board what

    Mohsen Heidary -

    How does the black wire reconnect? And is it necessary?

    Craig McBeth -

    I just put my controller back together (I opened it just to clean all the buttons since my son spilled some juice on it) and it seems to work wirelessly (with a PC using the dongle that came with the controller) even having broken the small black antenna cable connector off from the top motherboard. Not sure what that cable is used for or is it just an additional antenna for better connectivity. At least my controller still seems to work fine wirelessly without that cable being connected even from several meters away from the computer.

    Kari Söderholm -

    Actually nvm. Now that I tried the controller for a second time on the next day it seems to disconnect all the time so wireless is not working properly. I’ll need to try to fix the antenna cable by soldering. Probably will order a replacement connector (IPEX 4 SMD female socket) and try to solder that on.

    Kari Söderholm -

    1) TAKE HEED TO THESE WARNINGS AND BE VERY CAREFUL

    2) Instead of separating the boards completely all you need is to get enough space to pull the part out.

    *WHILE HOLDING WITH BOTH HANDS AS IF YOU WHERE PLAYING AND PUSH THE TOP BOARD FORWARD WITH YOUR THUMBS LIKE A DRAWER AND THEN LIFT UP!

    IT WILL SEPARATE JUST ENOUGH TO DO WHAT YOU NEED. *THIS TAKES CARE, FINESSE, & SOME SKILL.

    TyGuy -

Conclusión

Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

Autor

Lien (Ally) Quan

Miembro Desde 25/09/17

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