Sustitución del Conjunto del Panel Frontal del iPod Touch 1ª Generación

Escrito Por: Will Budney
  • Comentarios: 39
Sustitución del Conjunto del Panel Frontal del iPod Touch 1ª Generación

Dificultad

Difícil

Pasos

14

Tiempo Requerido

No hay estimado

Introducción

Esta guía muestra cómo reemplazar el ensamblaje del panel frontal en el iPod Touch de 1ª generación.

  1. TIvismtwH6jPRiw6

    • Abrir la carcasa es una tarea difícil y potencialmente peligrosa. Se requiere una buena cantidad de fuerza para encajar la herramienta de apertura de plástico entre las costuras de la carcasa. La carcasa puede dañarse si este paso no se realiza correctamente. Asegúrate de no lastimarte mientras abres tu iPod.

    • Inserta la pequeña herramienta de apertura de plástico en la costura entre el panel de plástico de la pantalla y el panel trasero de metal. El borde en ángulo debe apuntar hacia el panel trasero de metal.

    • Sostén la herramienta en su lugar una vez que esté encajada en el interior y los dos paneles estén separados.

    I found the little plastic tools to be useless. I finally got the case apart using jeweler's screwdrivers, guitar picks, and believe it or not, a wood chisel to split the sides of the case open. And believe it or not, I got back together again - not quite as good as new, but good enough.

    I'd REALLY love to know how Apple technicians get this little beast apart without damaging or nicking the case.

    phinegan -

    Cita de phinegan:

    I'd REALLY love to know how Apple technicians get this little beast apart without damaging or nicking the case.

    Who's betting the actually replace the back with a brand-spanker - if they repair them at all!

    marc draco -

    They do replace it with a new back, thats why they said that if you have words on the back (engraved) by someone other then apple, your going to lose those but if there done by apple then they'll do it again (when replaceing the battery they say that)

    Cita de marc draco:

    Who's betting the actually replace the back with a brand-spanker - if they repair them at all!

    shadowfox00101 -

    I replaced my battery in my 1st gen iPod and it still doesn't hold a charge for more then 5 min. Any ideas?

    ae86keidori -

    Cita de ae86keidori:

    I replaced my battery in my 1st gen iPod and it still doesn't hold a charge for more then 5 min. Any ideas?

    mine has the same problem. My 1st gen iPod touch dropped in water. after that It still works but can't hold a charge for more than 5 mins. I changed the battery and still the same.

    One of my friend give me some advices, I simply clean the whole logic board with some non water alcohol, and it works. It works perfect now. You can have a try.

    Liku -

    I found a method that worked for me in opening the case. I started at the top, and used a sewing needle. I'm sure a straight pin world work also. Using some padding between the back of the needle and my hand, I worked the point of the needle between the casing and the metal back. Don't push straight into the gap, push on the edge of the gap down toward the back of the iPod. Once you feel the needle slip in, use it as a guide to get your prying tool in there.

    Paul Jones -

    Hey, I made it, it's open! My opener tool was useless. A swiss army knife and lots of brute force is your friend. My tool broke apart not resisting such force that is necessary.

    http -

    lol i dropped my iPod this fixedit because it had no back

    elais -

    Count get past step 1 :( began seperating the back but the metal back sooner bent than the clips letting loose. I heard something chip then the ipod started getting very hot so I think I punctured the battery :( its going to live outside for a while before I throw it out.

    Mike -

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    • Hay siete clips de sujeción entrelazados en cada lado del iPod. La herramienta de apertura de plástico grande se usará para separar el panel frontal de la parte posterior de metal del iPod.

    • Inserta la herramienta de apertura grande en el lado derecho del iPod, con el borde de la herramienta apuntando hacia la parte posterior de metal.

    • Agranda suavemente la grieta existente moviendo la herramienta de apertura grande y moviéndola hacia la derecha.

    • Continúa haciéndolo hasta que el lado derecho del iPod esté suelto.

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    • Cambia al otro lado del iPod.

    • Sigue el mismo procedimiento que en el paso anterior para soltar los siete clips que sujetan los paneles en su lugar.

    • Una vez que se separan los paneles de este lado, el panel posterior se puede separar del resto del iPod.

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    • Levanta suavemente el panel posterior con los dedos.

    • La parte delantera y trasera del iPod ahora deben estar completamente separadas.

    • La antena dorada (tercera imagen) puede salirse fácilmente de su alojamiento. Asegúrate de que la antena esté bien colocada antes de cerrar el iPod.

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    • La batería está pegada a la pantalla del iPod, pero ningún tornillo la mantiene en su lugar.

    • Voltea el iPod 180 grados para que coincida con la orientación de la imagen.

    • Inserta con cuidado el spudger entre la batería y la pantalla. Hay cables de enrutamiento debajo, así que asegúrate de soltar la batería lentamente.

    Could I possibly just cut the battery cables in this step and solder them to the wires on the new battery??

    DUSTmurph -

    On reassembly before putting the two screws back in, make sure to slide the top part of the board opposite the screws under the small black plastic notch.

    barlowdo -

    In step five I was very careful with the spudger at getting the battery loose from the LCD screen but now after reassembly I have white bleed through all around three sides of the LCD screen. It shows up easily on light colored screen backgrounds like the Set up screen. It looks like the spudger some how damaged the back side of the LCD screen during disassembly. Is this glue heat sensitive or is there an alternative to using the spudger that a user can suggest?

    barlowdo -

    Cita de DUSTmurph:

    Could I possibly just cut the battery cables in this step and solder them to the wires on the new battery??

    I am thinking about trying this myself - It seems a lot less labor intensive than desoldering in that very tight location. I guess the big concern is if there is room for insulation on the spliced wires when the unit gets closed up.

    barlowdo -

    Cita de barlowdo:

    I am thinking about trying this myself - It seems a lot less labor intensive than desoldering in that very tight location. I guess the big concern is if there is room for insulation on the spliced wires when the unit gets closed up.

    I will add that there is really not a lot of wire length to do a splice on and it may be as difficult to do as soldering to the circuit board.

    barlowdo -

    Yes, even without de-soldering/soldering, one can simply cut the two wires then put a jumper wire on re-installation.

    I agree with DUSTmurph's, comment.

    profeduards -

    Is there any jumper little enough to fit in it?

    Giovanni Borney -

    You could cut the cables and solder the new batt's to these, but I'd make sure the total length of the splice is the same to the original. Also use the smallest-diameter heat-shrink tube to insulate so as not to make a bump that prevents the trinket to close properly.

    Aristarco Palacios -

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    • Usa un spudger (o tus uñas) para quitar la antena dorada. La antena se dobla fácilmente, así que asegúrate de no aplicar demasiada presión. Al volver a armar, coloca la antena dorada en su lugar antes de insertar las placas de circuito de la antena.

    • Usa el spudger para quitar el conector del lado izquierdo.

    • Retira dos tornillos Phillips.

    These two screws are short.

    NoH2O -

    There is a gold spring coil on the side of the board near the left side. BE VERY CAREFUL! It extremely brittle metal and if smashed down, won't connect with the power switch. Once smashed down, attempting to stretch it back out will break it. I found out the hard way and the only way to fix it is to replace the logic board.

    LukeInDC -

    Are these really Phillips 00 screws? My supposedly 00 screwdriver is way too big. Maybe they are really Phillips 000. The screws in my device were set with blue locktight (grr). I was able to unscrew three of the six with very small straight edge screwdriver but had to sand off the heads of three more with a Dremel tool. This is dangerous. During the process I barely nicked a component near where the antenna cable connects to the logic board. Now I have a new battery and no WiFi.

    anonymous 6952 -

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    • La placa de bucle de antena debe levantarse (está pegada). Con cuidado, usa una herramienta de apertura de plástico o un spudger para desalojar la placa de bucle de antena. La placa está conectada a la electrónica de la antena mediante un pequeño cable plano. Este conjunto de dos tablas es muy frágil.

    • Las dos placas de circuito de antena pequeñas ahora se pueden levantar juntas y su cable naranja se puede separar de la pantalla.

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    • Usa el spudger para quitar la cinta adhesiva negra. Esto revelará los dos tornillos superiores en la imagen.

    • Desatornilla los cuatro tornillos Phillips.

    • Usa un spudger para desconectar el conector negro.

    • Usa un spudger para desconectar el conector negro.

    Left screw is very short. Right screw is long. Top screws same as bottom ones.

    NoH2O -

    Also, right top one appears bronze/gold colored while left top one is silver, like the bottom ones. Don't know if this is important. (Also, couldn't figure out how to add to previous comment!)

    NoH2O -

    Actually you can skip all this taking apart sequence - just remove older battery, clean the soldering holes and solder wires back from top. just put some thin plastic film under logic board where the soldering points are while soldering wires in. I replaced god knows how many batteries like this and they all are fine. that way you can replace battery in 5minutes!

    DigiHead -

    Right, this is what I did. Although it took me more than 5 minutes just to get the case open.

    Madelaine Gogol -

    i reinstalled the lcd and digitizer. only the top works. the bottom of the screen will not respond to touch. help please !!!

    Nemowuner -

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    • Usa el spudger para aflojar la placa lógica de varios lados. Se mantiene en su lugar con pegamento y los cuatro tornillos que se quitaron en el paso anterior.

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    • Ten cuidado al voltear la placa lógica. El conector para auriculares y el puerto de acoplamiento están conectados a la placa.

    • Levanta suavemente la placa lógica (y los componentes adjuntos) hacia arriba.

    • La porción más pequeña de la placa lógica que reside debajo es muy flexible y frágil. Asegúrate de no tirar del spudger hacia arriba cuando lo uses para separar la tabla pequeña. Usa solo movimientos de lado a lado.

    • Desliza el spudger debajo de la pequeña porción de la placa lógica. La tabla debe aflojarse una vez que el spudger se haya deslizado casi por completo hacia el otro lado.

    When removing the smaller board, while sliding the spudger, I dislodged a white circular plastic disc stuck to the board which is some kind of buffer to the front side button and the board. It's a little sticky, hopefully I'll be able to put it back the right way.

    NoH2O -

    I've managed to strip a screw. Be careful of that!

    brittanica101 -

    I believe the white adhesive disc is the contact for power button, so try replacing the same way it came off. The dotted lines on the white should wrap around the edges of circuit board slightly and the board should hold it in place.

    swips -

    You don't actually need to remove the smaller portion of the logic board to remove the display. Just lift the larger portion up and out of the way, as illustrated.

    Mo Oishi -

    When I did this, the headphone jack cable sheared completely. The headphone jack was still down and the board flipped up. There was almost no resistance to indicate something was tearing. Luckily, installing a new headphone jack is pretty easy if you have a fine tip soldering iron. But it was a big delay as I had to order the part.

    jonathan -

    Cita de jonathan:

    When I did this, the headphone jack cable sheared completely. The headphone jack was still down and the board flipped up. There was almost no resistance to indicate something was tearing. Luckily, installing a new headphone jack is pretty easy if you have a fine tip soldering iron. But it was a big delay as I had to order the part.

    Ryan Lacy -

    Cita de Ryan:

    Do you have any specific info or guide on how to replace the headphone jack? I agreed to help a friend with their iPod and it turns out a new headphone jack is in order. I have never done a repair on an iPod requiring soldering. I think myself and many others would be grateful for a tutorial.

    Ryan Lacy -

    Cita de Ryan Lacy:

    Do you have any specific info or guide on how to replace the headphone jack? I agreed to help a friend with their iPod and it turns out a new headphone jack is in order. I have never done a repair on an iPod requiring soldering. I think myself and many others would be grateful for a tutorial.

    Well what worked for me was keeping the old connector on the soldered part. The new ribbon has two holes on each solder connecting point. If the ribbon isn't already ripped, go ahead and rip/cut it. Then simply place the new ribbon on top of the existing end with the solder blobs on it. Press down with the heated tip from on top of the solder pads and the heat should be enough to melt the solder beneath. It should flow right up through the holes with the pressure and voila.

    jonathan -

    Jonathan did you post any photos or a video of your soldering the new headphone jack to the logic board? I did as you did and broke the small ribbon or cable connecting the headphone jack to the logic board. This is my first attempt at repairing an electronic device, and it ended very badly.

    Lucy -

    I do it without removing the smaller card : it is more safety !!

    Christophe BRETON -

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    • La placa lógica y la batería ahora se pueden separar completamente del resto del iPod.

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    • Despega la cinta naranja que cubre los dieciséis tornillos Phillips en la parte posterior de la pantalla.

    • Utiliza un destornillador Phillips n.º 00 para quitar los dieciséis tornillos.

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    • Separa la pantalla del panel frontal levantándola suavemente.

    • La pantalla y el panel frontal ahora deben estar completamente separados.

    hi,

    after you take the display unit out. You have to separate the display from the al. backing plate. it is held on with glue so gentle prying with the spudger tools will do it for you. i started from one of the loose corners and used the opening tool to enable the spudger to get in.

    fantastic teardown,keep up the good work

    jigs

    jigalinb -

    Once you have re-assembled the iPod, the screen will not work unless you restart it by holding down the power button and the Home button down for a few seconds until you see the Apple logo.

    soulSnax -

    Some questions on re-assembly. I took mine apart because it got wet, so stopped after Step 13--I don't see a reason to take the front panel off--altho I may hit it w/the hair dryer just to ensure everything is dry. I'm also gently scrubbing the connectors and boards to remove built-up dust and crap. Any other suggestions?

    My Q's: do you re-use the various pieces of tape that were removed during dis-assembly? what about the glue--just stick things back on whatever glue is left or should I apply some anew? If so, what kind of glue do I use?

    I'm optimistic I'll be able to put it back together, thanks to this great site! Hopefully it will work as good as new.

    NoH2O -

  14. 3jH5T32UpDEmWWtA

    • Ahora necesitas transferir el espacio de metal al nuevo panel frontal. Esto permite que el botón de inicio entre en contacto con la placa lógica.

    • Este espacio está pegado al panel frontal. Inserta con cuidado un spudger debajo de él y sácalo.

    What part of the board registers the “click”? I replaced the digitizer and I see the gold contact point however when home button is pressed there is no click sound and no click is registered. I don’t see any other area that would contribute to a click.

    Steve Sobs -

Conclusión

Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

Autor

Will Budney

Miembro Desde 28/04/10

2326 Reputación

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