Sustitución del altavoz de la Nintendo Switch

Escrito Por: Craig Lloyd

Comentarios: 78

Sustitución del altavoz de la Nintendo Switch

Dificultad

Moderado

Pasos

Tiempo Requerido

40 minutos - 1 hora

Introducción

Sigue esta guía para reemplazar un altavoz que no funciona o que está defectuoso en tu videoconsola Nintendo Switch. Esta guía sirve tan para el altavoz izquierdo como para el derecho. Si vas a reemplazar un altavoz defectuoso debido al desgaste normal, es una buena idea reemplazar ambos altavoces para una experiencia de audio equilibrada.

La Switch utiliza tornillos JIS, pero puedes utilizar un destornillador Phillips en caso de necesidad. Ten mucho cuidado de no romper los tornillos. Las brocas Phillips de iFixit están diseñadas para ser compatibles con los tornillos de tipo JIS.

***Nota: Cuando retires la placa de protección, tendrás que sustituir la pasta térmica entre la placa y el disipador. Dado que la pasta térmica normal no está diseñada para salvar grandes espacios, el sustituto más cercano es la pasta térmica viscosa K5 Pro.

Nota: Esta guía, y la pieza que vendemos, son compatibles con el modelo original de Nintendo Switch lanzado en 2017, así como con el modelo renovado más reciente lanzado en 2019 (números de modelo HAC-001 y HAC-001(-01), respectivamente).

Herramientas

Partes

Nintendo Switch Speaker

Paso 1

Antes de comenzar esta reparación, asegúrate de que el dispositivo está completamente apagado.
Mantén pulsado el pequeño botón redondo de la parte trasera del mando Joy Con.
Mientras mantienes pulsado el botón, desliza el mando hacia arriba.

Paso 2

Continúa deslizando el control hacia arriba hasta sacarlo completamente de la consola.
Repite este mismo proceso para el otro control.

Paso 3

Utiliza un destornillador Y00 para retirar los cuatro tornillos de 6.3mm de longitud que sujetan el panel trasero.
A lo largo de esta reparación, mantén un registro de cada tornillo y asegúrate de que vuelve exactamente al mismo lugar de origen.

Had to use a Y0 from my kit - the Y00 was too small to get a grip on the screw.

cday - 05/06/21

I also had a much easier time with Y0 versus Y00. Y00 felt like it was starting to strip the first screw I tried to remove.

Joe -

My screws took a little coaxing before they were all ready to come out of the back plate, but I remedied this by turning the screwdriver as little as possible with each turn. Use almost no pressure, except for at the very beginning of each screw’s first turn.

nin10doh -

I think my screws are stripped, any way to get them out?

Banjomanperson -

I hear that using a rubber band can help? Not 100% sure on that though.

Pifase -

Paso 4

Utiliza un destornillador JIS 000 o un destornillador PH000 oficial de iFixit para retirar los siguientes tornillos que fijan el panel trasero:
Un tornillo de 2.5 mm de longitud en el borde superior del aparato.
Dos tornillos de 2.5 mm de longitud en el borde inferior del aparato
Para prevenir estos tornillos duros de barrerse, aplica presión firme hacia abajo, ve despacio y trata de usar un destornillador JIS 000 o PH 000 si los tornillos no salen.

Hey guys, I tried removing the upper screw and it won't go out(neither will it go in) any tips how to fix this?

Thanks

Nemysis - 27/03/21

The screw boss might be stripped out. Has the device been taken apart before? If you can unscrew it a little bit to get the screw to peek out, maybe try and grab it with some pliers as a last-ditch effort.

Craig Lloyd - 29/03/21

I have the same problem. The JIS 000 tool works great on the joy con rails per step 5 but refuses to turn the bottom two 2.5 mm screws as in step 4. These bottom screws are noticeably smaller than the screws as in step 5. The JIS 000 does not get down into these screws. Hopefully they haven’t been stripped by the wrong tool. So is there a JIS tool that is smaller than 000? I’m stuck at this point…

david brown - 28/04/21

We used the JIS 3.0mm screwdriver for both top and bottom screws and it worked

Brooklyn Gardner - 07/05/21

Used PH00 to get these out with no problem.

cday - 05/06/21

Fun fact: these screw into little plastic tabs that stick out of the rear panel. Apparently those tabs are fragile and easy to just break off…

Benjamin Fritz -

My screws came out fine. But they are easily stripped with too much pressure on reassmbly

Jaxon Lee -

this screws are way too fragile and way too small so be careful when taking them off dont use much force and unscrew also one of them fell somewhere and spent 30 mins searching for it

Richard Aguirre -

PH000 will work if you don’t have JIS000. The large IFIXIT kit has both and I lost JIS000. Just be very careful as you can strip the heads when removing or inserting easier.

Shawn Spivey -

One thing that worked pretty well for me with the screws not coming out is slightly prying on the back cover to put them under some tension

Florian Kraupa -

Quick note, these screws are not magnetic. A magnetic screwdriver will hold onto any of the others safely, but you need to be careful not to drop these ones in particular.

Jason Lane -

These would just keep rotating and not come out. What worked was, as Florian Kraupa suggested, i slid a plastic pick just between the 2 shells near the screws to prise it open slightly, then unscrewed and out they came. They're the smallest screws I've ever almost not seen before, so be careful with them.

Susannah Carter -

Paso 5

Usa un destornillador JIS 000 o un destornillador PH 000 oficial de iFixit para retirar los dos tornillos centrales de 3.8 mm situados en los laterales del aparato (uno en cada lado).

I tried my JIS 000 on Step 5 and was unable to get the screw to budge. It’s partner from the other side came right out with no trouble. Don’t really want to narf up the screw, so I bailed out. Anyone else have this issue?

mrhoyt - 04/03/21

Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!

Craig Lloyd - 05/03/21

Yeah I’m having this exact issue. Screw stripped and now I’m stuck. Wish I hadn’t even started.

Ryan Quinn - 22/05/21

I did finally get it out- one thing I noticed was some of the screws have blue Loctite on the threads. I guess they figure it’ll get tossed around. This underscores the importance of having the correct tools and making double darn sure you are using the correct size, etc.

mrhoyt - 05/03/21

What worked for me here was a Phillips 000, not a JIS 000

Federico Zivolo - 21/04/21

One of mine is totally stripped. Guess I can’t do anything now.

Nick -

My kit only has two screwdriver heads! The package was open when I received it!

Cynthia Hyland -

I had this issue as well. Screw was irreparably stripped. If you can get every other screw out, just keep applying pressure with a flat head screw driver right above the stripped screw and try to break the plastic piece holding onto the screw. It's a very minor invisible bit of damage that will allow you to continue the repair.

Raymond Garrison -

Paso 6

Usa tu dedo para levantar el soporte de la parte trasera del dispositivo.
Si hay una tarjeta microSD en la ranura para tarjetas microSD, sácala ahora antes de continuar con el siguiente paso.

Don't put your SD card on your magnetic mat.

Chris Cotter -

Paso 7

Utiliza un destornillador JIS 000 o un destornillador PH 000 oficial de iFixit para retirar el tornillo de 1.6 mm en el pozo de la pata de cabra.
Cierra el soporte.

Paso 8

Abre la solapa del cartucho de tarjetas de juego.
La solapa del cartucho de la tarjeta de juego se adhiere a la otra mitad de la carcasa de plástico, lo que impide levantar completamente el panel trasero si está cerrado.
Levanta el panel trasero desde la parte inferior del dispositivo y retíralo.

How to remove micro SD port?

Pull straight up, press back into place when closing back up.

Christopher Hernandez - 02/03/21

This step is missing in this guide. Here are the steps from another guide:

Step 9) Remplazo del Riel del sensor del Joy Con derecho del Nintendo Switch

Step 10) Remplazo del Riel del sensor del Joy Con derecho del Nintendo Switch

David -

Paso 9

Utiliza un destornillador JIS 000 o un destornillador PH 000 oficial de iFixit para retirar el tornillo de 3.1 mm que fija el lector de tarjetas microSD al dispositivo.

Paso 10

Utiliza tus dedos o unas pinzas para levantar el lector de tarjetas microSD directamente del dispositivo para desconectarlo y retirarlo.
Al volver a montarlo, asegúrate de que el conector a presión situado debajo de la almohadilla de espuma esté firmemente conectado a la placa base. Podría resultarte más fácil si retiras dicha almohadilla antes de reinstalar el lector de tarjetas.

Yes. The reverse is not so simple- you can’t see what you’re doing when you attempt to reconnect and it only takes one small error to completely bend the contacts on the connector. Very delicate.

if you very gently remove the foam pad sticker, you can at least see better how it lines up and can feel your way to a degree… then you can stick the pad back in. The pad seems pretty critical in keeping things in place once reassembled.

holmzee - 08/12/19

Definitely agree about not sticking the foam pad back on until the new SD card slot is connected. Saved a lot of headache. Great walkthrough and easy repair!

Jonathan Stachewicz - 06/01/21

Tried several times to replace this SD reader module. As mentioned above, the issue is aligning the connectors together. It appears the foam tape is being used to hold the connection in place. (assuming you can make a viable connection) I am rather surprised at this design. In my experience, mylar ribbon cables like this usually slide into a small PC mounted socket. It appears Nintendo went the cheap route here. This design is prone to failure since it does not enable a positive connection - at least from what I can see.

Bill Little - 28/12/19

Alors je suis en détresse total . Jai cassé les bouches en or sur le connecteur qui est soudé sur la carte mère.. comment changer cette toute petite pièces, oû la trouver . Cela fais 1 mois que je cherche partout. Sans remplacer la carte mère. Merci pour vos réponses

Mike Snow - 23/03/20

I found it easier to connect it without the black foam pad so I could see and than add the foam pad over it. It was super easy and I an I 33 Mom doing this for my son. Was well worth the money for the kit saved us almost 100 bucks

Katherine Harrison - 12/05/20

Had my son follow this guide to fix his own switch where the ad card reader didn't work. And he did. Great instructions!!!! Thanks a million!

William Scott - 04/07/20

The only difficult part of following this guide is connecting the new sd card reader into the poorly designed motherboard connector. Its quite possible the sd card reader that came in the console wasnt broken at all.

The repair kit works just as advertised and even comes with stickers.

Matthias_ Links - 21/10/20

I’m still getting error 2002-2054 even after replacing memory card reader module. Thanks, Nintendo!

Wes Stephenson - 26/12/20

My switch won’t read my microSD card after I reassembled it (error 2016-0641) please help!

Nate Topical - 01/01/21

Tip: Keep the old SD reader piece loosely attached while you line up and gently press the new SD component into the connector on the motherboard. Once the new piece is snug, then carefully remove the old piece keeping the sticky foam in place.

I am a middle-aged mom with absolutely no special tech skills and I easily followed the directions and successfully fixed the broken SD drive. ifixit is the best!

Wende David - 29/01/21

Ah good! i have more confidence now in doing it once you said you're a middle age mom with no experience

Mohammad Hosein Yavari -

I missed this bit about reconnecting the SD card reader under the foam pad and didn’t realise until my son pointed out a data storage problem?. All fixed in about 5 minutes taking advice from the replacing the SD card reader fix, especially removing the foam pad from the connector to better see and feel what you’re doing. All sorted!

Stuart Farquharson-Roberts - 28/03/21

Awesome guide! Very easy to do with the supplied kit

cravenkeo khamone - 13/05/21

Tank you very much, and by tank I mean M1 Abrams, jokes apart easy and simple to follow

Elia Veschi -

Thanks for the guide, I was struggling to find a solution, replaced more sd cards, before I stumbled upon this post. The Switch of my children works flawless again!

Robert Morvai - 25/08/21

Doesn’t work! I have spent 4 hours and $26 on a tiny screwdriver and some stickers.. I just gave up and replaced the Switch instead.

I even contacted a local shop to have them fix it and they told me it really isn’t possible. Thanks for taking my money Ifixit!

J.R. Wood -

This helped me to reseat my SD card reader ribbon cable. I was getting the 2016-0641 error and no card work. A drop had dislodged the cable partially. And yes remove the foam pad gently to properly connect the cable. You can reuse the foam pad.

Kris Morey -

For anyone who ends up bending the pins like I did while trying to reseat the microSD card reader…

I suggest gently placing very thin tweezers (like the curved ones in the Pro Tool Kit) in the gap and very, very gently pressing them back into alignment. Took a little effort but I was able to realign them enough to sit it in place and have it later working after reassembling the console.

Yakarot Sennin - 13/01/22

Anyone have a suggestion where I can purchase replacement foam for this sticker?

Rob M -

When reassembling, note the alignment pins in the left and bottom notches before tightening the screw

Jason Lane -

Super gemakkelijk te installeren met behulp van deze zeer duidelijke handleiding (met dank aan de vertalers!)

Wel even goed opletten op de aansluiting op het moederbord is zeer fragiel.

R de Bruijne -

It is key to remember most out of the box issues with the SD card reader, do not require a replacement part and can be solved with disconnecting then re-connecting the reader at the motherboard.

Only when a simple re-seating at the connector doesn't work should you buy the replacement part.

Jonathon Sinclair -

I bought the kit and followed the directions. I plucked the black rubber foam off with a pair of eyelash tweezers. Putting the tiny screws back in place also was made easier using the tweezers. As for placing the SD card in place I think I got a bit lucky. I lined it up and gently pressed until it simply went into place. I do believe being gentle is the key there. But it went in and I put it back together. The deconstructing and reconstructing is what took the longest for me at least. I turned it on to verify it worked and then unpowered the unit and inserted the card. The system recognized and update right away and did it and then recognized the card! Just what I need for 20 something dollars. Son is happy and back to gaming.

Albert Baker -

Thank you for postingthis fix. The original sd card reader had come unplugged from the motherboard, so replacement reader will be a spare.

Anybody found a way to ensure the sd reader stays in place?

Craig Thwaites -

It was my first time repairing a Switch and the fan replacement wasn't too hard, but unfortunately I think there should be a better warning about the SD card connector because I damaged it while trying to put it back in. I couldn't hear any click and it didn't seem to stay put and I think I ended up applying to much force and damaging the pins.

Serge Huber -

Paso 11

Usa un destornillador JIS 000 o un destornillador PH 000 oficial de iFixit para retirar los seis tornillos de 3 mm que fijan la placa de protección al aparato.

Some models have a small board in the lower left beneath the kickstand which accepts SD cards. This will have to be carefully removed with its connections popped out, then replaced after.

Draque Thompson -

Yeah, that “small board” is the microSD Card reader chip, which was covered literally one step ago. All models have a microSD Card reader, that’s how game data is stored…

nin10doh - 12/12/21

Paso 12

Utiliza tus dedos o unas pinzas para despegar el trozo de espuma que hay en el borde superior del aparato, cerca del puerto de salida del ventilador.
Si la espuma no se pela fácilmente, no la forces porque puede rasgarse. Pela cuidadosamente en lugares diferentes para echar atrás la espuma.

My Switch (bought about two weeks after launch) seems to be missing this foam piece… Was it added later, similar to the foam piece in the left joy-con (to improve connectivity)?

firetech - 05/02/21

It’s possible it was added to newer units! Nintendo slightly updated the internals of the Switch not too long ago.

Craig Lloyd - 05/02/21

My launch Switch also does not have this piece of foam, so it was most likely added later.

Christoph -

Also did not see this in my launch switch.

matthew.raehl -

Paso 13

Inserta un spudger debajo de la placa de escudo a lo largo del borde del dispositivo.
Haz palanca para levantar la placa de escudo y removerla del dispositivo.
Es posible que sientas un poco de resistencia. Esto es normal, ya que la placa de escudo está ligeramente adherida al disipador de calor con pasta térmica.
Un compuesto térmico rosado espeso cierra el espacio entre la placa protectora y el disipador de calor de cobre debajo. Esto ayuda a evitar que el Switch se sobrecaliente.
Puedes reutilizar el compuesto térmico rosa si tienes cuidado. Mantén el compuesto limpio y asegúrate de que haces un contacto sólido entre el disipador de calor y el protector durante el montaje.
Si necesitas reemplazarlo, consulta nuestra guía de pasta térmica para quitar el compuesto térmico antiguo y reemplazarlo con un compuesto apropiado, como K5 Pro, durante el reensamblaje.

How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?

Youji Hong - 27/08/19

Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..

MacTek - 15/12/19

When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?

Diego Soto - 30/08/19

I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound

Adam Stillman - 06/09/19

No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.

MacTek - 15/12/19

Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.

Shawn Christensen - 20/12/19

Why was this not included in the tools/equipment list? Getting to this step and now I will have to reverse and wait for yet another order to arrive. ? Very frustrated

Amanda Nally - 12/03/21

Hi Amanda,

Thanks for bringing this up. Sorry! We inadvertently left that part out during the guide refresh. I’ll add the necessary info into the step.

Arthur Shi - 12/03/21

To apply new thermal paste, the directions state to use the application method recommended for your specific processor type—vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread.

Which method should be used for the Nintendo Switch processor?

Philip W -

As stated in the comment above, is there a particular method to apply thermal paste to the Switch’s processor? Or as long as you distribute it evenly is enough?

lievjorg -

Paso 14

Usa la punta de un spudger para hacer palanca en el conector de la batería hacia arriba y fuera de su zócalo en la placa madre.

be careful not to pry it off the board entirely

Nathan McKenna -

This was an old switch and the entire thing with the black plastic came off.. Most of the pins aren't there anymore, too.. is there a solution to that? Does soldering work?

Dawn Martin -

it's probably possible, but unless you have experience with microsoldering, you'd probably be better off taking it to a local repair shop

just some mango -

Paso 15

Si sólo vas a sustituir el altavoz izquierdo, sáltate los dos pasos siguientes.
Utiliza tus dedos o unas pinzas para sacar el conector del altavoz directamente de su hueco en la placa base.
No tires del conector por los cables del altavoz. Son muy finos y pueden romperse fácilmente del conector.

Paso 16

Utiliza la punta de un spudger para levantar el altavoz.
El altavoz está adherido con un ligero adhesivo dentro del hueco del altavoz, por lo que se requiere un poco de fuerza.
Usa tus dedos o unas pinzas para retirar el altavoz derecho.

Paso 17

Sigue los tres siguientes pasos si estás remplazando el altavoz izquierdo.
Usa tus dedos o unas pinzas para retirar el conector del altavoz directamente de su conector en la placa base.
No tire del conector por los cables del altavoz. Son muy finos y pueden desprenderse fácilmente del conector.

Paso 18

Utiliza la punta de un punzón para hacer palanca en el altavoz y soltarlo del hueco del altavoz.
El altavoz está adherido con un ligero adhesivo dentro del hueco del altavoz, por lo que se requiere un poco de fuerza.

Paso 19

Usa tus dedos o unas pinzas para sacar con cuidado el altavoz del hueco del altavoz.

Conclusión

Compare su nueva pieza de repuesto con la pieza original. Es posible que tenga que transferir los componentes restantes o retirar los adhesivos de la nueva pieza antes de instalarla.

Para volver a montar su dispositivo, siga estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

Lleve sus residuos electrónicos a un R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

¿La reparación no ha ido como estaba previsto? Prueba con solución básica de problemas, o pide ayuda en Nintendo Switch Answers community.

Autor

Craig Lloyd

Miembro Desde 10/02/16

30227 Reputación

6 comentarios

Will typical PC thermal paste work? I have a lot of that lying around and I don’t want extra cost (already spending the price of the speakers for the tools alone).

Nico Robin - 07/11/19

Has anyone tried to change the speakers for better ones? And how would that be done?

James Guzman - 08/07/20

I just completed this as my first repair to anything, and it was surprisingly simple & easy! I was worried about the connections not working, but everything worked like a charm!

Braeden Migay - 01/01/21

What do you do if the white connector on the motherboard, where you would connect the speaker, has snapped off? Is there any way to reconnect it?

whitneymcparland - 27/03/21

It sounds like the part that you use to connect the speakers to the motherboard has seperated. This would require microsautering, which is very complicated and difficult to do. I would take it to someone with microsautering experience, or just not use that speaker if it doesn’t bother you. Unfortunately, there isn’t much else you can do about it.

Hope this helped.

Ember -

Does anyone know the name (part number) of the white connector on the motherboard ? I need to replace mine and I am unable to figure out the connector type.. any help would be greatly appreciated !

sp raju -